Crochet Tutorial: Garden Donkey in Floral Overalls with Ladybug Satchel and Watering Can – Free Crochet Pattern.

Crochet Tutorial: Garden Donkey in Floral Overalls with Ladybug Satchel and Watering Can – Free Crochet Pattern.

This garden donkey features an elongated brown head, oversized upright ears, a cream muzzle, expressive framed eyes, a tousled mane, and a berry-and-leaf hair decoration. The donkey wears green floral overalls, gray garden shoes with carrot accents, and a woven ladybug satchel. A sun hat, watering can, flowerpot, and flowering cactus complete the garden display.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

Using medium-weight yarn and a 3.25 mm crochet hook, the seated donkey measures approximately 14 inches tall from the shoes to the top of the head. The full height, including the upright ears, is approximately 19 inches. Individual measurements may vary depending on yarn, hook size, stuffing, and tension.

  • Head without ears: approximately 6 inches tall.
  • Each ear: approximately 7 inches long.
  • Body: approximately 6 inches tall.
  • Legs with shoes: approximately 7 inches long.
  • Satchel: approximately 4 inches wide.
  • Sun hat brim: approximately 7 inches across.
  • Watering can: approximately 3 inches tall.
  • Cactus and pot: approximately 4 inches tall.

Skill Level

Intermediate. The main donkey uses standard amigurumi techniques. The decorative clothing and accessories require color changes, surface embroidery, post stitches, small appliqués, careful shaping, and precise assembly. Beginners should read each complete section before starting and use stitch markers throughout the project.

Materials

  • Medium-weight number 4 yarn in chocolate brown for the donkey.
  • Medium-weight yarn in dark charcoal for the ear tips.
  • Medium-weight yarn in warm cream for the muzzle and eye surrounds.
  • Medium-weight yarn in medium gray and pale blue-gray for shoes, hooves, and watering can.
  • Medium-weight yarn in moss green for the overall shorts and straps.
  • Medium-weight yarn in dark brown for the overall bib and bag strap.
  • Medium-weight yarn in wheat or caramel for the satchel and sun hat.
  • Small amounts of red, black, pink, peach, lavender, aqua, yellow, leaf green, and orange yarn.
  • 3.25 mm crochet hook for the donkey and fitted garments.
  • 3.5 mm crochet hook for the hat, bag, and garden accessories.
  • Two 14 mm brown, black, or dark blue safety eyes.
  • Two small wooden buttons for the overall straps.
  • Polyester fiberfill.
  • Yarn needle, embroidery needle, scissors, pins, and stitch markers.
  • Optional plastic canvas pieces for reinforcing the bag and watering can.
  • Optional fabric-safe craft glue for securing tiny decorative pieces.

Gauge and Tension

Gauge is approximately 22 single crochet stitches and 24 rounds per 4 inches. The fabric should feel firm enough that the stuffing does not show through the stitches. Use a smaller hook when necessary, but do not crochet so tightly that shaping and decreases become difficult.

All stuffed parts are worked in continuous spiral rounds unless a section specifically instructs you to turn. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round. Stuff gradually and distribute the filling evenly to preserve the elongated shapes shown in the finished donkey.

US Crochet Abbreviations

  • MR: magic ring.
  • ch: chain.
  • sl st: slip stitch.
  • sc: single crochet.
  • hdc: half double crochet.
  • dc: double crochet.
  • inc: work 2 single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
  • dec: invisible single crochet decrease over the next 2 stitches.
  • FLO: front loop only.
  • BLO: back loop only.
  • FPdc: front post double crochet.
  • BPdc: back post double crochet.
  • st or sts: stitch or stitches.

Important Construction Notes

  • Stuff the head firmly around the cheeks and crown, but keep the neck opening slightly softer.
  • Insert the safety eyes through the crocheted eye surrounds before securing them inside the head.
  • The ears should remain lightly stuffed so they stay broad and upright without becoming rigid.
  • The donkey is designed in a seated position with the legs extending forward over the edge of a shelf or bench.
  • Pin every part before sewing and compare both sides from the front, side, and top views.
  • Small parts, safety eyes, and buttons are not suitable for children under three years old.

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Donkey Head

Use chocolate brown yarn and the 3.25 mm hook. Begin at the top of the head. The increases produce a rounded crown, while the additional stitches near the lower face create the donkey’s long cheek and muzzle area.

  1. Round 1: Work 6 sc into an MR. Pull the ring closed. Place the marker. 6 sts.
  2. Round 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
  4. Round 4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
  5. Round 5: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts.
  6. Round 6: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 36 sts.
  7. Round 7: Repeat 5 sc, inc around. 42 sts.
  8. Round 8: Repeat 6 sc, inc around. 48 sts.
  9. Rounds 9–17: Sc in each st around. 48 sts.
  10. Round 18: Repeat 7 sc, inc around. 54 sts.
  11. Rounds 19–24: Sc in each st around. 54 sts.
  12. Round 25: Repeat 7 sc, dec around. 48 sts.
  13. Round 26: Sc in each st around. 48 sts.
  14. Round 27: Repeat 6 sc, dec around. 42 sts.
  15. Round 28: Repeat 5 sc, dec around. 36 sts.
  16. Round 29: Repeat 4 sc, dec around. 30 sts.
  17. Round 30: Repeat 3 sc, dec around. 24 sts.

Insert the prepared eyes before closing the head. Stuff the crown firmly, then fill the cheeks and lower face. Shape the head into a slightly tapered oval rather than a perfect sphere. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the head to the body.

Cream Eye Surrounds

Make two with warm cream yarn. These oval surrounds create the raised, expressive eye frames visible on the donkey’s face. Work around both sides of the starting chain.

  1. Round 1: Ch 5. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next 3 ch, work 3 sc in the final ch, continue along the opposite side, sc in the next 2 ch, and work 2 sc in the final ch. 10 sts.
  2. Round 2: Inc, 2 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc, inc in each of the final 2 sts. 16 sts.
  3. Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc once, 2 sc, repeat 1 sc, inc three times, 2 sc, repeat 1 sc, inc twice. 22 sts.

Fasten off with a long sewing tail. Insert one safety eye through the center of each cream oval. Position the ovals on the head between Rounds 14 and 20, leaving approximately eight visible brown stitches between the inner cream edges.

The upper edges should tilt slightly outward. Push each safety eye through the head and secure the washer inside. Sew every edge of the cream surrounds to the head using small cream stitches. Add one short pale blue-gray embroidery stitch beside each pupil to create the reflected highlight.

Cream Muzzle

Use warm cream yarn. Work around both sides of the starting chain to create a wide oval. The muzzle should cover the lower front of the head and project slightly after stuffing.

  1. Round 1: Ch 9. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next 7 ch, work 3 sc in the final ch, continue along the opposite side, sc in the next 6 ch, and work 2 sc in the final ch. 18 sts.
  2. Round 2: Inc, 6 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 6 sc, inc in each of the final 2 sts. 24 sts.
  3. Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc once, 6 sc, repeat 1 sc, inc three times, 6 sc, repeat 1 sc, inc twice. 30 sts.
  4. Round 4: Repeat 2 sc, inc once, 6 sc, repeat 2 sc, inc three times, 6 sc, repeat 2 sc, inc twice. 36 sts.
  5. Rounds 5–6: Sc in each st around. 36 sts.

Fasten off with a long tail. Position the muzzle across Rounds 19–28 of the head. The top edge should sit slightly beneath the eyes. Begin sewing around the outer edge and insert a thin, even layer of stuffing before closing the final two inches.

Use brown yarn to embroider two short curved nostrils, placing them six stitches apart. Embroider a shallow vertical line from the center lower muzzle, then create a gentle smiling curve extending three stitches to each side.

Large Donkey Ears

Make two. Begin with dark charcoal yarn for the tips. Change to chocolate brown after Round 5. Keep the color change at the back edge of each ear.

  1. Round 1: Work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts.
  2. Round 2: Sc in each st around. 6 sts.
  3. Round 3: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  4. Round 4: Sc in each st around. 12 sts.
  5. Round 5: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
  6. Round 6: Change to chocolate brown. Sc in each st around. 18 sts.
  7. Round 7: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
  8. Rounds 8–13: Sc in each st around. 24 sts.
  9. Round 14: Repeat 6 sc, dec three times. 21 sts.
  10. Rounds 15–17: Sc in each st around. 21 sts.
  11. Round 18: Repeat 5 sc, dec three times. 18 sts.
  12. Rounds 19–22: Sc in each st around. 18 sts.
  13. Round 23: Repeat 4 sc, dec three times. 15 sts.
  14. Rounds 24–26: Sc in each st around. 15 sts.

Add only a narrow strip of stuffing through the center of each ear. Flatten the final round and sc through both layers with 7 sc. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Fold each base slightly inward to create a shallow center crease.

Pin the ears to the crown between Rounds 4 and 10. Leave approximately twelve stitches between the inner bases. Angle the ears outward by approximately fifteen degrees. Sew around the front and back of each flattened base so the ears remain securely upright.

Mane

Cut approximately forty-five strands of chocolate brown yarn, each 4 inches long. Fold one strand in half, insert the hook beneath one head stitch, pull the folded loop through, and draw both loose ends through the loop.

Begin between the ears and continue down the center back of the head for approximately five rounds. Add extra strands around the crown. Trim the finished mane to approximately 1 to 1.25 inches, leaving the upper strands slightly longer and tousled.

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Berry and Leaf Hair Decoration

Large Green Leaf

  1. With leaf green yarn, ch 8.
  2. Beginning in the second ch, work sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, and 3 sc in the final ch.
  3. Continue along the opposite side with sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, and sl st.
  4. Fasten off and embroider one center vein with darker green yarn.

Aqua Leaves

Make two. Ch 6. Beginning in the second ch, work sl st, sc, hdc, dc, and 4 dc in the final ch. Continue along the opposite side with dc, hdc, sc, and sl st. Fasten off with a sewing tail.

Red Berries

Make three with red yarn.

  1. Round 1: Work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts.
  2. Round 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. Round 3: Sc in each st around. 12 sts.
  4. Round 4: Dec around. 6 sts.

Add a tiny amount of stuffing, close the opening, and secure. Arrange the large green leaf above two overlapping aqua leaves. Place the three berries in a descending cluster. Sew the entire decoration beside the donkey’s right ear, approximately one round below the ear base.

Body

Use chocolate brown yarn. Begin at the lower body and work upward. The body should remain pear-shaped, with a wider seated base and narrower shoulders.

  1. Round 1: Work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts.
  2. Round 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
  4. Round 4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
  5. Round 5: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts.
  6. Round 6: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 36 sts.
  7. Round 7: Repeat 5 sc, inc around. 42 sts.
  8. Rounds 8–14: Sc in each st around. 42 sts.
  9. Round 15: Repeat 5 sc, dec around. 36 sts.
  10. Rounds 16–18: Sc in each st around. 36 sts.
  11. Round 19: Repeat 4 sc, dec around. 30 sts.
  12. Rounds 20–22: Sc in each st around. 30 sts.
  13. Round 23: Repeat 3 sc, dec around. 24 sts.
  14. Round 24: Sc in each st around. 24 sts.

Stuff the body firmly at the lower back and base. Use slightly less stuffing at the shoulders so the head can be sewn securely without creating a visible gap. Fasten off with a long sewing tail.

Arms and Gray Hooves

Make two. Begin with medium gray yarn at the hoof end.

  1. Round 1: Work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts.
  2. Round 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
  4. Rounds 4–7: Sc in each st around. 18 sts.
  5. Round 8: Repeat 4 sc, dec three times. 15 sts.
  6. Round 9: Change to chocolate brown. BLO sc in each st around. 15 sts.
  7. Rounds 10–20: Sc in each st around. 15 sts.
  8. Round 21: Repeat 3 sc, dec three times. 12 sts.
  9. Rounds 22–24: Sc in each st around. 12 sts.

Stuff the hoof and lower arm firmly. Reduce the stuffing toward the upper arm. Flatten the opening and sc through both layers with 6 sc. Leave a long tail for sewing.

With pale blue-gray yarn, embroider three horizontal lines across the front of each hoof. Position the arms beneath the head at Body Rounds 19–22. Angle them downward approximately twenty degrees, with the hooves resting close to the sides of the overall shorts.

Shoes and Legs

Make two. Begin with medium gray yarn at the sole. Work around both sides of the starting chain.

  1. Round 1: Ch 9. Beginning in the second ch, sc in the next 7 ch, work 3 sc in the final ch, continue along the opposite side, sc in the next 6 ch, and work 2 sc in the final ch. 18 sts.
  2. Round 2: Inc, 6 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 6 sc, inc in each of the final 2 sts. 24 sts.
  3. Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc once, 6 sc, repeat 1 sc, inc three times, 6 sc, repeat 1 sc, inc twice. 30 sts.
  4. Round 4: BLO sc in each st around. 30 sts.
  5. Rounds 5–6: Sc in each st around. 30 sts.
  6. Round 7: Sc 10, dec five times, sc 10. 25 sts.
  7. Round 8: Sc 9, dec three times, sc 10. 22 sts.
  8. Round 9: Sc 8, dec three times, sc 8. 19 sts.
  9. Round 10: Sc 17, dec. 18 sts.
  10. Round 11: Change to chocolate brown. BLO sc in each st around. 18 sts.
  11. Rounds 12–28: Sc in each st around. 18 sts.

Stuff each shoe firmly, especially the toe. Continue stuffing each leg evenly, leaving the top two rounds slightly softer. Flatten the final round and sc through both layers with 9 sc. Leave a long tail.

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Shoe Sole Trim

Join caramel yarn to any unused front loop from Round 4. Sl st evenly around all 30 loops. Fasten off invisibly. This line creates the warm brown sole border visible around the gray shoe.

Pale Blue Shoe Stripes

Using pale blue-gray yarn, surface crochet or embroider two horizontal rows across the upper toe of each shoe. Each stripe should cover approximately twelve front stitches. Place the rows one round apart and keep both shoes symmetrical.

Shoe Straps

Make two with caramel yarn. Ch 17. Beginning in the second ch, hdc in each ch. 16 hdc. Fasten off with long tails. Place each strap over the upper shoe opening and sew the ends beside the brown leg.

Carrot Shoe Decorations

Make two orange carrot roots.

  1. Round 1: With orange yarn, work 4 sc into an MR. 4 sts.
  2. Round 2: Repeat 1 sc, inc twice. 6 sts.
  3. Round 3: Repeat 2 sc, inc twice. 8 sts.
  4. Rounds 4–5: Sc in each st around. 8 sts.
  5. Round 6: Dec around. 4 sts.

Do not stuff. Close the opening and weave the tail through the carrot to make a gentle tapered point. For each carrot top, attach green yarn and make three loops of ch 4, sl st into the attachment point.

Sew one carrot to the outer side of each shoe strap. Angle the carrot roots toward the toes. The carrot on the donkey’s left shoe may sit slightly higher than the carrot on the right shoe for a natural handmade appearance.

Green Overall Shorts

The shorts are assembled around the completed legs so they do not need to pass over the wide shoes. Make two flat green leg cuffs first.

Leg Cuffs

Make two with moss green yarn.

  1. Row 1: Ch 23. Beginning in the second ch, sc across. 22 sts.
  2. Rows 2–5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 22 sts.

Fasten off the first cuff. Leave the yarn attached to the second cuff. Wrap one cuff around each upper leg, approximately two rounds below the leg top. Sew the short edges together to create two fitted tubes.

Joining the Shorts

  1. Round 1: With the active yarn, sc around all 22 sts of the first cuff, ch 2, sc around all 22 sts of the second cuff, ch 2, and join with a sl st. 48 sts including chains.
  2. Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. 48 sts.
  3. Round 3: Repeat 6 sc, dec around. 42 sts.
  4. Rounds 4–8: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. 42 sts.
  5. Round 9: BLO sc in each st around. Join. 42 sts.
  6. Rounds 10–11: Sc in each st around. Join. 42 sts.

Fasten off. Pull the completed shorts upward around the lower body. The waistband should rest near Body Round 13. Stitch the upper edge discreetly to the body at the back and sides. Do not over-tighten the front, because the brown bib will cover this area.

Brown Overall Bib

Use dark brown yarn. The bib is a rectangular panel with a subtle textured surface.

  1. Row 1: Ch 22. Beginning in the second ch, sc across. 21 sts.
  2. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 21 sts.
  3. Row 3: Ch 1, turn, repeat sc, hdc across, ending with sc. 21 sts.
  4. Row 4: Ch 1, turn, repeat hdc, sc across, ending with hdc. 21 sts.
  5. Rows 5–12: Repeat Rows 3–4 four more times.
  6. Row 13: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 21 sts.
  7. Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 21 sts.

Fasten off with a long tail. Center the bib above the green waistband. Sew the lower edge to the waistband and secure both side edges to the brown body. The top edge should finish approximately two rounds below the neck.

Green Overall Straps

Make two with moss green yarn.

  1. Row 1: Ch 6. Beginning in the second ch, sc across. 5 sts.
  2. Rows 2–30: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 5 sts.

Fasten off with long tails. Attach one end of each strap to the back waistband, approximately five stitches apart. Bring the straps over the shoulders and attach them to the upper corners of the bib.

Sew one small wooden button over each front strap end. When buttons are unavailable, crochet two circles with caramel yarn by working 6 sc into an MR, joining with a sl st, and fastening off. Add two dark brown embroidered buttonholes to each circle.

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Mini Donkey Face on the Bib

Face Circle

  1. With chocolate brown yarn, work 6 sc into an MR.
  2. Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.

Fasten off with a sewing tail. Flatten the circle and sew it to the center of the bib, approximately four rows above the waistband.

Small Muzzle

  1. With cream yarn, ch 4.
  2. Beginning in the second ch, sc 2, work 3 sc in the final ch, continue along the opposite side, sc 1, and work 2 sc in the final ch. 8 sts.

Fasten off and sew to the lower half of the face circle. Add two tiny black eye knots and one brown vertical mouth stitch.

Mini Ears

Make two. With brown yarn, ch 5. Beginning in the second ch, sl st, sc, hdc, and work 4 dc in the final ch. Continue along the opposite side with hdc, sc, and sl st. Sew the ears behind the upper edge of the face circle.

Floral Overall Decorations

Five-Petal Flowers

Make five flowers in combinations of pink, lavender, aqua, peach, and brown.

  1. Work 5 sc into an MR and join with a sl st.
  2. For each petal, work ch 2, 2 dc in the same st, ch 2, and sl st in the same st.
  3. Repeat the petal sequence in all five stitches.
  4. Fasten off and add a contrasting French-knot center.

Small Leaves

Make seven leaves in light and dark green. Ch 6. Beginning in the second ch, sl st, sc, hdc, dc, and 4 dc in the final ch. Continue along the opposite side with dc, hdc, sc, and sl st.

Placement

  • Sew one pink flower, one brown flower, and three overlapping leaves to the donkey’s right hip.
  • Sew one small aqua flower and one peach flower near the lower edge of the left overall leg.
  • Add one lavender bud and one green leaf beside the peach flower.
  • Embroider three short green stems around the bib and waistband.
  • Add a small green vine beneath the miniature donkey face.

Tail

With chocolate brown yarn, ch 22. Beginning in the second ch, sl st in each ch. Fasten off with a long tail. Cut eight strands of brown yarn, each 3 inches long, and knot them through the final chain.

Trim the tassel to approximately 1 inch. Sew the tail to the center back of the body at Round 10. Allow it to curve toward the donkey’s left side so it remains partially visible beside the shorts.

Woven Ladybug Satchel

Use wheat or caramel yarn and the 3.5 mm hook. The front and back panels use post stitches to imitate woven garden-basket texture.

Front Panel

  1. Row 1: Ch 23. Dc in the fourth ch from the hook and in each remaining ch. 20 dc.
  2. Rows 2–4: Ch 2, turn, repeat 4 FPdc, 4 BPdc twice, then 4 FPdc. 20 sts.
  3. Rows 5–7: Ch 2, turn, repeat 4 BPdc, 4 FPdc twice, then 4 BPdc. 20 sts.
  4. Rows 8–13: Repeat Rows 2–7 once.
  5. Row 14: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 20 sts.

Back Panel and Flap

  1. Repeat Front Panel Rows 1–14.
  2. Rows 15–17: Repeat 4 FPdc, 4 BPdc twice, then 4 FPdc. 20 sts.
  3. Rows 18–20: Repeat 4 BPdc, 4 FPdc twice, then 4 BPdc. 20 sts.
  4. Row 21: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 16, dec. 18 sts.
  5. Row 22: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 14, dec. 16 sts.
  6. Row 23: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 12, dec. 14 sts.

Gusset

  1. Row 1: Ch 6. Beginning in the second ch, sc across. 5 sts.
  2. Rows 2–48: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 5 sts.

Fasten off with a long tail. Sew the gusset around the sides and bottom of the front panel. Sew the remaining gusset edge to the matching sides and bottom of the back panel. Fold the extended flap forward over the front.

Satchel Strap

With dark brown yarn, ch 96. Beginning in the second ch, hdc in every ch. 95 hdc. Fasten off. Sew one end to each upper side of the bag.

Place the strap diagonally over the donkey’s left shoulder so the bag rests near the right hip. Secure the strap discreetly beneath the arm and at the shoulder to prevent it from slipping.

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Ladybug Appliqué

Red Body

  1. With red yarn, work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts.
  2. Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
  3. Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
  4. Sc in each st around. 18 sts.

Fasten off. Flatten lightly and sew the lower two-thirds to the center of the bag flap.

Black Head

  1. With black yarn, work 6 sc into an MR.
  2. Inc in each st around. 12 sts.

Fasten off and sew the black circle over the upper edge of the red body. Embroider one black center line down the red shell and add three small black knots to each side. Add two short chain-stitch antennae above the head.

Garden Sun Hat

Use wheat or light tan yarn and the 3.5 mm hook. Work the crown in continuous rounds.

  1. Round 1: Work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts.
  2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
  3. Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
  4. Round 4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
  5. Round 5: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts.
  6. Round 6: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 36 sts.
  7. Round 7: Repeat 5 sc, inc around. 42 sts.
  8. Round 8: Repeat 6 sc, inc around. 48 sts.
  9. Round 9: Repeat 7 sc, inc around. 54 sts.
  10. Rounds 10–16: Sc in each st around. 54 sts.
  11. Round 17: BLO sc in each st around. 54 sts.
  12. Round 18: Repeat 8 sc, inc around. 60 sts.
  13. Round 19: Repeat 9 sc, inc around. 66 sts.
  14. Round 20: Repeat 10 sc, inc around. 72 sts.
  15. Round 21: Sc in each st around. 72 sts.

Fasten off and weave in the end. Join dark brown yarn around Round 16 and surface crochet one complete line to form the hatband. The hat may be placed beside the donkey or gently balanced behind one ear for display.

Gray Watering Can

Can Body

  1. With medium gray yarn, work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts.
  2. Inc around. 12 sts.
  3. Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
  4. Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
  5. Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts.
  6. Round 6: BLO sc around. 30 sts.
  7. Rounds 7–14: Sc around. 30 sts.
  8. Round 15: Repeat 3 sc, dec around. 24 sts.
  9. Round 16: BLO sc around. 24 sts.
  10. Round 17: Sc around. 24 sts.

Insert a circular piece of plastic canvas against the base when additional stability is desired. Stuff the lower half lightly. Leave the upper section hollow enough to preserve the watering-can opening.

Top Rim

Join pale blue-gray yarn to the unused front loops of Round 16. Work 1 sc in each loop around. Join with a sl st. Work one additional round of sc and fasten off.

Spout

  1. With medium gray yarn, work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts.
  2. Round 2: Sc around. 6 sts.
  3. Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc three times. 9 sts.
  4. Rounds 4–8: Sc around. 9 sts.
  5. Round 9: Repeat 2 sc, inc three times. 12 sts.
  6. Round 10: Sc around. 12 sts.

Stuff very lightly. Flatten the narrow attachment end and sew it diagonally to the lower side of the can. Angle the spout upward approximately thirty degrees.

Spout Rose

  1. With pale blue-gray yarn, work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts.
  2. Inc around. 12 sts.
  3. Repeat ch 2, 2 hdc in the same st, ch 2, and sl st in the next st six times.

Sew the rose to the wide end of the spout. Embroider six tiny gray dots around the center to suggest watering holes.

Handle

With medium gray yarn, ch 27. Beginning in the second ch, hdc in each ch. 26 hdc. Fasten off with long tails. Sew one end near the upper back and the other near the lower back of the can, forming a rounded handle.

Terracotta Flowerpot

  1. With terracotta yarn, work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts.
  2. Inc around. 12 sts.
  3. Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
  4. Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
  5. Round 5: BLO sc around. 24 sts.
  6. Rounds 6–10: Sc around. 24 sts.
  7. Round 11: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts.
  8. Round 12: BLO sc around. 30 sts.
  9. Rounds 13–14: Sc around. 30 sts.

Fasten off. Insert a small base circle of plastic canvas and stuff the lower pot firmly. Crochet a dark brown soil circle by working 6 sc into an MR, increasing to 12, then 18, and finally 24 stitches. Sew the soil circle inside the pot rim.

Flowering Cactus

Main Cactus

  1. With green yarn, work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts.
  2. Inc around. 12 sts.
  3. Rounds 3–15: BLO sc around. 12 sts.
  4. Round 16: Dec around. 6 sts.

Stuff firmly and close the top. The BLO rounds form subtle vertical ribs. Sew the cactus upright through the soil circle and into the stuffed base of the pot.

Short Cactus Arm

  1. Work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts.
  2. Rounds 2–6: BLO sc around. 6 sts.

Stuff lightly, flatten the base, and sew to the right side of the main cactus around Round 8. Bend the arm upward before securing its upper edge.

Long Cactus Arm

  1. Work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts.
  2. Rounds 2–8: BLO sc around. 6 sts.

Stuff lightly and sew to the opposite side around Round 6. Curve the tip upward. Use pale green yarn to embroider short horizontal dashes along the cactus ribs.

Pink Cactus Flower

With pink yarn, work 5 sc into an MR. For each stitch, work ch 2, 2 hdc, ch 2, and sl st in the same stitch. Fasten off and sew the flower to the top of the main cactus. Add a yellow knot at the center.

Positioning the Legs and Seated Pose

Pin the legs to the lower front of the body between Rounds 4 and 9. Leave approximately six body stitches between the inner leg edges. The flattened upper edges should point slightly forward rather than directly downward.

Sew through the leg edge and body several times. Reinforce both inner corners. When the donkey is placed on a bench, the lower legs should hang vertically while the green shorts rest against the seat.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

  1. Center the head over the body opening and pin it in four places.
  2. Tilt the muzzle slightly forward while keeping the eyes level.
  3. Sew the head to the body using two complete passes around the neck.
  4. Check that the ears remain upright and equally angled.
  5. Sew the arms beneath the shoulders with the hooves directed inward.
  6. Secure the overall bib, straps, buttons, flowers, leaves, and miniature donkey face.
  7. Place the satchel strap over the left shoulder and position the bag at the right hip.
  8. Add one short brown eyebrow above each cream eye surround.
  9. Embroider two tiny cream stitches beneath each eye to soften the expression.
  10. Trim the mane and remove any visible temporary markers.

Arrange the sun hat, watering can, and cactus pot beside the seated donkey. The watering can should sit in front of the hat, while the cactus pot may be placed on the opposite side to create the balanced garden scene shown in the finished display.

Care Notes

  • Keep the donkey away from open flames, direct heat, and prolonged strong sunlight.
  • Do not lift the finished figure by the ears, straps, mane, or satchel.
  • Support the head and body together when moving the donkey.
  • Check decorative buttons and small appliqués periodically.
  • Store the garden accessories in a small labeled container when they are not displayed.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Both ears are securely attached and tilted evenly.
  • The eyes are level and the cream surrounds are fully sewn.
  • The muzzle is centered beneath the eyes.
  • The mane extends neatly from the crown down the back of the head.
  • The green shorts fit smoothly around both legs and the body.
  • The bib is centered and both straps are equal in length.
  • All five flowers and seven leaves are firmly attached.
  • The shoe stripes, straps, and carrot decorations match on both feet.
  • The ladybug is centered on the satchel flap.
  • The watering can, hat, cactus, and flowerpot remain stable when displayed.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For light dust, use a soft makeup brush or a clean, dry cloth. Brush in the direction of the stitches and avoid pulling the mane fibers. A handheld vacuum may be used only on its lowest setting with a protective mesh placed over the nozzle.

For localized marks, dampen a white cloth with cool water and a small amount of mild soap. Blot the affected area without rubbing. Blot again with a clean damp cloth to remove soap, then press gently with a dry towel.

Do not machine wash the assembled donkey because the safety eyes, buttons, structured bag, watering can, and decorative appliqués may become distorted. Do not use bleach, strong stain removers, fabric softener, a tumble dryer, or direct heat.

After spot cleaning, reshape the head, ears, shoes, clothing, and accessories by hand. Allow every piece to air-dry completely on a flat towel in a well-ventilated shaded area. Turn loose accessories occasionally so moisture does not remain beneath them.

For long-term storage, place the donkey upright in a breathable cotton bag or an acid-free storage box. Avoid sealed plastic containers in humid conditions. Place clean tissue paper around the ears, muzzle, hat brim, and watering-can handle to help preserve their shapes.

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