Jasmine Pearl Collared Bunny – Crochet

This Jasmine Pearl Collared Bunny is a classic, boutique-style amigurumi dressed in a blue beret and pearl-button jacket over a cream dress with a lacy collar and jasmine blossoms along the hem. If you’re browsing for a crochet kit, DK cotton yarn, safety eyes, and polyfill stuffing, this set is designed to look exactly like the photo.

You’ll also make the matching mini teddy friend, a bobble-textured pearl clutch, a tiny perfume bottle prop, and extra jasmine flowers to scatter on the table. This is ideal for anyone shopping for amigurumi supplies, crochet hooks, pearl buttons, and neat finishing tools that give your handmade pieces a polished, giftable look.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Project Summary

This design uses tight, even stitches to create a smooth fabric that holds shaping. The bunny has a large rounded head, long floppy ears that hang beside the face, and a slightly A-line body hidden under the dress. The outfit is the star: a blue jacket with pearl accents, a cream dress with a scalloped lace collar, and a jasmine flower garland at the hem.

The accessories are scaled to match the scene. The clutch is a soft rectangle covered in raised pearl-like bobbles. The perfume bottle is a tiny cylinder with a contrasting label and cap. The teddy wears a matching blue beret and jacket with shorts, so the set feels coordinated and true to the image.

Finished Size

• Main bunny: about 11–12 in (28–30 cm) tall, standing
• Teddy friend: about 5–6 in (13–15 cm) tall, seated
• Clutch: about 4 in (10 cm) wide
• Perfume bottle: about 2 in (5 cm) tall

Skill Level

• Advanced beginner to intermediate
• Comfort with working in continuous rounds, shaping, sewing parts neatly
• Simple surface embellishment and small accessory construction

Materials

Choose yarn that creates clean stitch definition. A cotton or cotton-blend DK gives the crisp, boutique texture shown. If you prefer a softer plush look, use a smooth acrylic DK, but keep tension tight.

• Yarn (DK / light worsted) in these colors:
• Warm beige (bunny head/ears/legs and teddy body)
• Cream/ivory (dress, collar, shoes, flowers, clutch pearls)
• Dusty blue (bunny beret and jacket, teddy beret and jacket)
• Soft green (flower leaves and tiny buds)
• Small amounts: light gray or beige for perfume label, dark brown for embroidery

• Hook: 2.25 mm to 3.0 mm (choose size that makes tight fabric)
• Notions: 8–10 mm safety eyes for bunny, 6 mm for teddy
• Polyfill stuffing
• Tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors
• Pearl accents: small half-pearls or beads (optional) OR crochet bobbles
• Buttons: 4–6 tiny pearl-style buttons for jacket front
• Thin craft wire (optional) for purse strap shaping

Gauge and Tension

Gauge is not critical, but the fabric must be firm. Your stitches should look like tight, stacked rows with minimal gaps, matching the smooth, dense appearance in the image. If you see stuffing through the stitches, move down a hook size.

Stitch Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase (2 sc in same st)
• dec = invisible decrease
• sl st = slip stitch
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• blo/flo = back/front loop only
• ( ) = repeat instructions in parentheses

Color and Styling Notes

In the image, the bunny’s beige is warm and even, with small black eyes and a tiny stitched nose and mouth. The jacket is a dusty denim-blue, slightly textured by stitch rows. The collar is a lace-like cream ruffle that sits wide around the neck. The beret has a jasmine cluster on one side.

To match the look, keep facial details minimal and symmetrical. Place eyes slightly low and wide. Keep the dress hem neat, and align the jasmine flower garland evenly across the front. The shoes are classic Mary Janes with a strap across the top and a slightly raised toe.

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Main Bunny

Head (Beige)

Work in continuous rounds. Stuff firmly as you go for a smooth, round head that supports the hat. The head in the photo is large compared with the body, giving a sweet, doll-like proportion.

1. Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) around (24)
5. Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) around (30)
6. Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) around (36)
7. Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) around (42)
8. Rnd 8: (sc 6, inc) around (48)

The head in the image looks full and smooth. If your yarn is thinner DK and your stitches are very tight, 48 stitches is ideal. If you use a thicker DK and the head becomes too large, stop at 42 and add one extra even round for height.

1. Rnd 9–18: sc around (48)
2. Rnd 19: (sc 6, dec) around (42)
3. Rnd 20: sc around (42)
4. Rnd 21: (sc 5, dec) around (36)
5. Rnd 22: sc around (36)
6. Rnd 23: (sc 4, dec) around (30)
7. Rnd 24: sc around (30)
8. Rnd 25: (sc 3, dec) around (24)

Insert safety eyes now. Place them between Rnd 15 and Rnd 16, about 10–11 stitches apart. The eyes should sit wide and slightly low, matching the gentle expression in the photo. Secure the backs firmly before continuing.

1. Rnd 26: (sc 2, dec) around (18)
2. Rnd 27: (sc 1, dec) around (12)
3. Stuff head very firmly, smoothing lumps.
4. Rnd 28: dec around (6)
5. Fasten off, close hole neatly. Weave in end.

Facial Embroidery

Use dark brown embroidery floss or thin yarn. The nose is small and centered, with a short vertical line and a tiny split mouth. Keep it delicate and minimal like the photo so the face stays soft and calm.

• Find the center point between the eyes, 3–4 rounds below eye line.
• Embroider a small triangle or short “V” for the nose.
• Stitch a short vertical line down, then two tiny curved stitches for the mouth.

Ears (Make 2, Beige)

The ears are long and floppy, hanging down beside the face. They are slightly thicker than flat felt-like ears, so we’ll crochet an oval tube and lightly shape it without stuffing.

1. Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4–22: sc around (18)
5. Rnd 23: (sc 4, dec) around (15)
6. Rnd 24–30: sc around (15)

Flatten the ear opening and sc through both layers to close the last round, creating a soft seam. Do not stuff. Leave a long tail for sewing. Repeat for the second ear, ensuring both ears match in length.

Body (Beige, Under Dress)

The body is mostly hidden under clothing, but its shape matters. We want a stable, slightly tapered torso that supports the dress flare. Work from the bottom up, shaping gently to a narrower neck.

1. Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) around (24)
5. Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) around (30)
6. Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) around (36)
7. Rnd 7–12: sc around (36)

This creates a rounded lower torso. To match the standing posture in the image, keep the bottom slightly flatter by pressing it gently while stuffing. A stable base helps the dress hang evenly and keeps shoes aligned.

1. Rnd 13: (sc 5, dec) around (30)
2. Rnd 14–16: sc around (30)
3. Rnd 17: (sc 4, dec) around (24)
4. Rnd 18–20: sc around (24)
5. Stuff firmly, keeping sides smooth.
6. Rnd 21: (sc 2, dec) around (18)
7. Rnd 22–23: sc around (18)
8. Rnd 24: (sc 1, dec) around (12)
9. Rnd 25: sc around (12)
10. Fasten off, leave long tail for attaching head.

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Arms (Make 2, Beige)

The arms are short and slightly curved, ending in simple rounded hands. The jacket sleeves cover most of the arms, but a small beige hand shows. Keep stuffing light so the arms relax naturally at the sides.

1. Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3–5: sc around (12)
4. Rnd 6: (sc 2, dec) around (9)
5. Rnd 7–18: sc around (9)

Stuff lightly from the hand to mid-arm. Flatten the opening and sc through both layers to close. Leave a long tail for sewing. Repeat for the second arm.

Legs (Make 2, Beige)

The legs are straight and medium length, with the shoes covering the feet. In the image, the legs show below the dress and above the shoes. We will crochet legs as tubes, then attach to the body, and add shoes separately.

1. Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4–6: sc around (18)
5. Rnd 7: (sc 4, dec) around (15)
6. Rnd 8–22: sc around (15)

Stuff firmly but not hard at the ankle area. Flatten and close with sc through both layers. Leave a long tail for sewing. Make the second leg identical.

Tail (Beige)

The tail is small and subtle, mostly hidden by the dress, but it adds charm and balance.

1. Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc around (12)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 2, dec) around (9)
5. Rnd 5: sc around (9)

Stuff lightly. Fasten off, leave tail for sewing.

Outfit: Cream Dress with Jasmine Hem

Dress Bodice (Cream)

The dress is a single piece worked from the top down, then flared into a skirt. The bodice sits under the jacket and collar. We’ll build a neat neckline, then add the skirt flare to match the bell shape in the photo.

1. Ch 36, join to form a ring (ensure chain is not twisted).
2. Rnd 1: sc around (36)
3. Rnd 2: (sc 5, inc) around (42)
4. Rnd 3: sc around (42)
5. Rnd 4: (sc 6, inc) around (48)
6. Rnd 5–7: sc around (48)

At this point, test fit around the bunny body. The bodice should sit snugly without stretching. If it is tight, add one more increase round to 54. If it is loose, keep 48 and rely on the jacket to hold it in place.

Separate Armholes

We create openings so the dress fits cleanly under the jacket sleeves. Place markers for the front and back, then chain across each armhole.

1. Rnd 8: sc 12, ch 6, skip 6, sc 18, ch 6, skip 6, sc 12 (48 + 12 ch spaces)
2. Rnd 9: sc around, placing sc into each chain (60)

Now the dress is a tube with armholes. The collar will cover the neckline, so keep this area smooth and neat. Continue for a short waist section before flaring into the skirt.

1. Rnd 10–12: sc around (60)

Skirt Flare

To achieve the bell shape, increase gradually. The skirt in the image is not overly ruffled; it’s structured and gently flared. Use spaced increases so the fabric stays smooth and elegant.

1. Rnd 13: (sc 9, inc) around (66)
2. Rnd 14: sc around (66)
3. Rnd 15: (sc 10, inc) around (72)
4. Rnd 16: sc around (72)
5. Rnd 17: (sc 11, inc) around (78)
6. Rnd 18: sc around (78)
7. Rnd 19: (sc 12, inc) around (84)
8. Rnd 20: sc around (84)
9. Rnd 21: (sc 13, inc) around (90)
10. Rnd 22: sc around (90)

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Continue straight to reach the hem length seen in the image. The hem lands above the shoes and reveals the legs clearly. If you want a slightly longer dress, add 1–2 extra rounds before the hem detail.

1. Rnd 23–28: sc around (90)

Dress Hem Edge

The hem has a subtle clean finish. Add a gentle decorative edge that stays flat, then attach jasmine flowers on top.

1. Rnd 29: hdc around (90)
2. Rnd 30: (sc 2, sl st) around to create a tiny scallop rhythm
3. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Lace-Style Pearl Collar (Cream)

The collar is wide and scalloped, sitting over the jacket neckline like a classic lace collar. In the image, it forms a rounded ring with small openwork and a delicate edge.

1. Ch 34, join to form a ring.
2. Rnd 1: sc around (34)
3. Rnd 2: (ch 3, skip 1, dc in next) around to create small openings.
4. Rnd 3: In each ch space: (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) to make a scallop.

Fasten off with a long tail. Wrap the collar around the bunny neck area so it sits wide and flat. Sew it lightly to the dress neckline so it stays centered under the jacket, matching the photo’s neat placement.

Dusty Blue Jacket with Pearl Details

Jacket Body (Worked Flat, Blue)

The jacket is a cropped, structured piece with long sleeves and pearl accents. It sits open at the front, showing the cream dress. The jacket has a simple texture made by tight sc rows, and it includes pearl-like bobbles at the cuff and small pearl buttons down the front.

1. Row 1: Ch 31, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (30)
2. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across (30)
3. Row 3–18: Repeat Row 2 (30)

This creates the back panel height. For the rounded shoulders, add slight shaping by decreasing at both ends for a few rows. Keep it subtle so the jacket remains boxy and classic.

1. Row 19: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 26, dec (28)
2. Row 20: Ch 1, turn, sc across (28)
3. Row 21: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 24, dec (26)
4. Row 22: Ch 1, turn, sc across (26)
5. Fasten off.

Jacket Front Panels (Make 2, Blue)

Each front panel is narrower than the back and includes a straight front edge for pearls and buttons. The front edge in the image looks clean and slightly rounded at the bottom.

1. Row 1: Ch 16, sc in 2nd ch and across (15)
2. Row 2–18: Ch 1, turn, sc across (15)
3. Row 19: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 11, sc (14) for a slight neckline slope
4. Row 20: Ch 1, turn, sc across (14)
5. Row 21: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 10, sc (13)
6. Row 22: Ch 1, turn, sc across (13)

Fasten off, leaving long tails for sewing. Make a second front panel, mirroring the neckline slope by placing decreases on the opposite side so both fronts angle inward toward the neck.

Jacket Assembly

Sew shoulders: attach each front panel to the back panel at the top edges. Leave the neckline open and rounded. Sew side seams partially, leaving armholes sized for the sleeves. The jacket should sit just above the dress waist, matching the cropped look in the image.

• Sew shoulder seams first, aligning rows.
• Pin jacket around bunny body to confirm fit.
• Sew side seams, leaving a generous armhole opening.

Sleeves (Make 2, Blue)

The sleeves are long and slightly tapered. They end at the wrist with pearl accents. The cuffs in the image show tiny pearl beads spaced around.

1. Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4–6: sc around (18)
5. Rnd 7: (sc 4, dec) around (15)
6. Rnd 8–22: sc around (15)

Do not stuff sleeves. Slip the sleeve onto the bunny arm when dressing, or sew sleeves into the jacket only. For a crisp look like the photo, sew sleeves into jacket armholes first, then insert the arms inside afterward.

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Jacket Trim and Pearl Accents

Work a neat edging around the jacket opening and bottom hem. This helps the jacket lie flat and adds the clean boutique finish seen in the image.

• Join blue yarn at bottom edge.
• Sc evenly around all open edges: front opening, neckline edge, bottom hem, and cuffs.
• At corners, add 2 sc in one spot to turn smoothly.

To create the pearl look on cuffs and jacket, you have two options. Option A uses glued half-pearls after finishing. Option B crochets tiny bobbles for a fully yarn-based result that matches the raised dots in the photo.

• Pearl bobble stitch: (yo, insert hook, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through 2) repeated 3 times in same st, then yo and pull through all loops.
• Place bobbles along sleeve cuffs, spaced evenly, about 6–8 per cuff.
• Add 3–5 bobbles down the jacket front edges where the pearl buttons appear.

Pearl Buttons

The jacket front shows small pearl-like buttons. Sew on 4–5 tiny pearl buttons on one front panel, evenly spaced from the neckline to the lower hem. If you prefer a non-functional look, stitch them through both front layers so the jacket stays gently closed.

Dusty Blue Beret with Jasmine Cluster

Beret Base (Blue)

The beret is a soft, flat-topped cap that sits slightly tilted. It has a gentle dome and a clean brim. In the image, it sits low on the forehead, with the ears hanging outside the hat.

1. Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) around (24)
5. Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) around (30)
6. Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) around (36)
7. Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) around (42)

For a slightly wider beret like the photo, add one more increase round. This gives the hat that relaxed, painterly look.

1. Rnd 8: (sc 6, inc) around (48)
2. Rnd 9–12: sc around (48)
3. Rnd 13: (sc 6, dec) around (42)
4. Rnd 14: sc around (42)
5. Rnd 15: (sc 5, dec) around (36)
6. Rnd 16: sc around (36)

Now create the brim so it hugs the head. The brim should be firm and tidy so the beret stays in place. If your head is smaller, add another decrease round to 33 before the brim.

1. Rnd 17–20: sc around (36)
2. Rnd 21: blo sc around (36) to define brim fold
3. Rnd 22–24: sc around (36)
4. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Jasmine Cluster for Beret (Cream + Green)

The hat has a small cluster of jasmine blossoms on one side. Each flower is a tiny five-petal piece with a subtle center. Make 3–5 flowers and a couple of leaves, then sew them as a cluster.

Mini Jasmine Flower (Make 5–7, Cream)

1. MR, (ch 2, sl st, ch 2, sl st) repeated 5 times into the ring to form 5 petals.
2. Pull ring tight, fasten off, leave tail for sewing.

Mini Leaves (Make 2–3, Green)

1. Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch, hdc, dc, hdc, sc (5)
2. Fasten off, leave tail for sewing.

Sew flowers into a small cluster. Add a tiny green stitch in the center of each flower for realism. Attach the cluster to the beret’s side, slightly above the brim, matching the placement in the photo.

Mary Jane Shoes (Cream)

The shoes are smooth, rounded, and classic, with a strap across the top. They sit flat and wide enough for the bunny to stand. Make two identical shoes. If you want extra structure, insert a small oval of craft felt into the sole before closing.

Sole (Make 2)

1. Ch 8.
2. Rnd 1: sc in 2nd ch, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, sc 5 down other side, 2 sc in last ch (16)
3. Rnd 2: inc, sc 5, inc x3, sc 5, inc x2 (24)
4. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, sc 5, (sc 1, inc) x3, sc 5, (sc 1, inc) x2 (32)

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Build Shoe Walls

1. Rnd 4: blo sc around (32)
2. Rnd 5–6: sc around (32)

Shape Toe

Mark the center front. Decrease around the toe area to create the rounded top. The shoe in the image has a gentle dome, not pointy.

1. Rnd 7: sc 10, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 10 (30)
2. Rnd 8: sc 10, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 10 (28)
3. Rnd 9: sc 10, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 10 (26)

Try fitting over the leg. If it feels snug, stop decreasing and work straight. If it is loose, add one more toe decrease round. Keep the top opening wide enough to slide on, but not so wide that it looks like a slipper.

1. Rnd 10–11: sc around (26)
2. Fasten off after Rnd 11 for now.

Strap

Attach yarn at one side of shoe opening. Ch 8–10, then sl st to the opposite side to form a strap. Stitch the strap down firmly at both ends so it sits flat like the Mary Jane strap in the photo.

Finishing Edge

Work one round of tight sc around the opening to firm it. Weave in ends. Repeat for the second shoe.

Pearl Clutch Bag (Cream)

The clutch is a soft rectangular purse with a short handle and lots of raised pearl texture. In the image, it sits on the left side and looks like a cloud of pearls. We’ll crochet a base rectangle and add bobble pearls across the surface.

Bag Base (Cream)

1. Ch 21.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch and across (20)
3. Row 2–14: ch 1, turn, sc across (20)

Fold the rectangle in half, short ends aligned, to form a pouch. Sew side seams, leaving the top open. This creates a soft envelope shape like the photo.

Pearl Bobble Texture

Work bobbles onto the front face in a scattered grid. Keep them close together so the surface looks densely pearled.

• Join yarn on the front surface.
• Work: (sc 1, bobble) repeating across rows.
• Stagger bobbles on the next row so gaps fill in.
• Continue until the front is well covered.

For an even more pearl-like look, you can also sew small beads between bobbles. If you do, use strong thread and knot securely inside the bag so nothing loosens over time.

Handle

1. Attach yarn at one top corner.
2. Ch 22–26 for a short handle that arches.
3. Sl st to the other top corner.
4. Work back along chain with sc to thicken handle.

Weave ends inside. The handle in the photo is simple and soft, so keep it small and neat.

Perfume Bottle Prop

The small bottle is a tiny cylinder with a darker cap and a lighter label band. It sits near the clutch in the photo. Keep it lightly stuffed so it holds shape but remains cute and soft.

Bottle (Cream)

1. Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4–8: sc around (18)

Label Band (Light Gray or Beige)

1. Switch color at the end of Rnd 8.
2. Rnd 9–10: sc around (18)
3. Switch back to cream.
4. Rnd 11–12: sc around (18)

Neck and Cap (Dark or Blue)

1. Rnd 13: (sc 4, dec) around (15)
2. Rnd 14: sc around (15)
3. Stuff lightly.
4. Rnd 15: (sc 3, dec) around (12)
5. Rnd 16: sc around (12)
6. Switch to dark cap color.
7. Rnd 17–18: sc around (12)
8. Rnd 19: dec around (6)
9. Fasten off, close hole, weave in ends.

If you want the cap to look more defined, add a tiny chain loop on top or sew a small bead at the tip. Keep it subtle so it remains consistent with the photo’s soft props.

Extra Jasmine Flowers (Table Scatter)

In the image, several small jasmine blossoms are scattered near the bunny. Make extra mini flowers using the same jasmine flower instructions used for the beret cluster. Create 6–10 loose blossoms, and add a few tiny green buds if desired.

• Make 6–10 cream mini flowers.
• Add tiny green center stitches.
• Optional: stitch 1–2 flowers together for a small cluster.

Mini Teddy Friend

The teddy is a small companion with a beige body, small round ears, and a matching dusty blue beret and jacket. It also wears dark shorts. The teddy in the photo is seated with legs forward and arms slightly out, giving a gentle, cuddly pose.

Teddy Head (Beige)

1. Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) around (24)
5. Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) around (30)
6. Rnd 6–10: sc around (30)
7. Rnd 11: (sc 3, dec) around (24)
8. Rnd 12: sc around (24)

Insert 6 mm safety eyes between Rnd 8 and Rnd 9, spaced about 6–7 stitches apart. Embroider a tiny bear nose and mouth, centered and small, to keep the expression calm like the photo.

1. Rnd 13: (sc 2, dec) around (18)
2. Rnd 14: (sc 1, dec) around (12)
3. Stuff firmly.
4. Rnd 15: dec around (6)
5. Fasten off, close, weave in.

Teddy Ears (Make 2, Beige)

1. Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc around (12)

Fasten off, leave tail. Sew ears to the top sides of the head, slightly forward.

Teddy Body (Beige)

1. Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) around (24)
5. Rnd 5–8: sc around (24)
6. Rnd 9: (sc 2, dec) around (18)
7. Rnd 10–12: sc around (18)
8. Stuff firmly.
9. Rnd 13: (sc 1, dec) around (12)
10. Rnd 14: sc around (12)
11. Fasten off, leave tail for sewing head to body.

Teddy Arms (Make 2, Beige)

1. Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc around (12)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 2, dec) around (9)
5. Rnd 5–10: sc around (9)

Stuff lightly, close opening with sc through both layers. Leave tail for sewing.

Teddy Legs (Make 2, Beige)

1. Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4–6: sc around (18)
5. Rnd 7: (sc 4, dec) around (15)
6. Rnd 8–14: sc around (15)

Stuff firmly, close opening. The teddy legs in the photo are short and rounded, perfect for a seated pose.

Teddy Shorts (Dark Blue or Deep Navy)

Work shorts as a simple skirt-like band, then split for legs. Keep them snug so they look tailored.

1. Ch 30, join.
2. Rnd 1–4: sc around (30)
3. Split: sc 15, join to first sc of these 15 to form leg 1.
4. Leg 1: Rnd 1–3: sc around (15), fasten off.
5. Join yarn to remaining 15 stitches for leg 2.
6. Leg 2: Rnd 1–3: sc around (15), fasten off.

Slide shorts onto teddy. Sew a few tiny stitches at the waistband to keep them in place.

Teddy Jacket (Blue)

The teddy jacket mirrors the bunny jacket: cropped, simple, with tiny pearl accents. Keep it minimal and tidy.

1. Row 1: Ch 19, sc across (18)
2. Row 2–10: ch 1, turn, sc across (18)

Create two small front panels.

1. Front panel (make 2): ch 10, sc across (9), work 10 rows.

Sew shoulders and sides, leaving armholes. Add tiny edging. Sew on 2–3 tiny pearl buttons or bobbles. Keep them centered like the photo’s tiny jacket details.

Teddy Beret (Blue)

The teddy beret is a smaller version of the bunny beret. Add a tiny jasmine accent if you wish, but keep it subtle.

1. Rnd 1: MR 6 sc (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) around (18)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) around (24)
5. Rnd 5–6: sc around (24)
6. Rnd 7: (sc 2, dec) around (18)
7. Rnd 8–10: sc around (18)
8. Fasten off.

Assembly Order for Best Accuracy

Assembling in a steady order helps everything align exactly like the photo. Keep seams centered and check symmetry often. Use pins before sewing so the face and outfit look balanced from the front.

1. Sew bunny ears to head first, placing them low enough to hang beside the cheeks.
2. Attach head to body, keeping the face looking straight forward.
3. Sew legs to body front-bottom so bunny stands naturally.
4. Sew arms to upper sides, slightly forward.
5. Add tail to the back, centered.
6. Dress bunny: dress first, then collar, then jacket, then shoes.
7. Place beret on head, tilt slightly, and sew discreetly so it stays.
8. Attach jasmine cluster to beret if not already attached.
9. Make and dress teddy, then arrange props and extra flowers.

Dressing and Prop Placement

To match the scene, keep the jacket open so the cream dress shows. The collar should sit evenly over the jacket neckline. The jasmine garland belongs at the hem, centered across the front, with blossoms spaced neatly. Place the clutch to the bunny’s left and the perfume bottle in front of it.

The teddy sits to the bunny’s right, angled slightly toward the bunny. Scatter a few extra jasmine blossoms near the front edge of the scene. This small styling detail makes the set look complete and identical to the photo’s composition.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Once everything is dressed, do a final symmetry check. Ensure both ears hang evenly, the beret tilt looks natural, and the jacket pearls line up. If needed, add a hidden stitch to hold the collar flat. Re-tighten any loose embroidery so the nose and mouth stay crisp.

Care Notes

Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap. For deeper cleaning, hand wash gently in cool water, supporting the clothing and accessories. Avoid twisting. Press in a towel to remove moisture, reshape, and dry flat. Keep pearl buttons and any beads away from harsh rubbing.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Eyes secure and evenly placed
• Nose and mouth centered and minimal
• Ears same length and hanging symmetrically
• Dress sits smooth under jacket with even hem
• Collar flat and centered
• Jacket pearls/buttons aligned and firmly attached
• Shoes matching and straps secured
• Teddy outfit fitted and balanced
• Props scaled and neatly finished

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term storage, wrap the set in acid-free tissue and store in a breathable cotton bag or box. Keep it out of direct sunlight to prevent fading, especially the blue jacket and beret. Store accessories together in a small pouch so nothing gets lost, and avoid heavy pressure on the beret and collar.