Nicotiana Twilight Tier Bunny – Crochet

This elegant amigurumi bunny set brings together a collectible rabbit doll, a tiny pig companion, and refined miniature accessories in soft twilight shades. It has the charm of a handmade heirloom toy, a nursery keepsake, and a boutique crochet doll gift that many collectors search for when shopping handmade plush décor.

The layered skirt, floral hat, capelet, purse, fan, candle, and bouquet give this design the feel of a luxury amigurumi set. If you enjoy creating artisan crochet animals, statement handmade dolls, or giftable plush figures that look ready for display, this design offers a lovely premium-style project with many beautiful details.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Design Overview

This pattern recreates the full display shown in the image: a standing bunny in a lavender tiered dress, a cream capelet with floral embroidery, a tilted hat with flowers and soft netting, matching shoes, a small purse, a shell fan, a candle, a flower bouquet, and a tiny pig dressed to coordinate with the bunny.

The proportions are important for the final look. The head is large and softly rounded, the ears hang low and close to the face, the body is short and hidden beneath the dress, and the skirt spreads outward in three clear layers. The accessories are small, neat, and delicate.

The sample uses smooth yarn with tight, even stitches. The fabric should be firm so the shapes stay crisp. Use a hook slightly smaller than usual for your yarn. This helps the doll hold its rounded form and keeps stuffing from showing between stitches.

Materials

• Main bunny color: medium dusty violet
• Dress color: pale lavender
• Cape, hat, candle body: warm cream or soft ivory
• Accent pink: muted rose pink for nose, shoe trim, fan, and pig
• Flower colors: white, lavender, and deeper purple
• Flame color: golden yellow and warm orange
• Green: very small amount for bouquet stems if desired
• Hook: size suitable for tight amigurumi fabric
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
• Safety eyes: two for bunny, two small black beads or embroidered eyes for pig
• Thin embroidery thread: pink, cream, violet, and dark thread for facial shaping if needed
• Small pearl beads: optional, for center front cape closure, purse clasp, shoes, and decorative accents
• Millinery net, tulle, or very soft mesh: for hat veil
• Tapestry needle, stitch marker, scissors, pins

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• rep = repeat

General Notes

• Work in continuous rounds unless a row is clearly stated.
• Mark the first stitch of every round.
• Stuff gradually and firmly, but do not overfill the limbs.
• The dress is built to sit wide and layered, so keep the fabric smooth and even.
• The capelet and hat should look refined and structured, not floppy.
• If your doll grows larger than expected, reduce hook size before changing stitch counts.

Finished Proportions

The bunny should stand as the tallest piece in the set. The head should look slightly wider than the upper body. Each ear should fall to about neck level. The skirt should reach nearly to the ankles, leaving the shoes visible. The pig should stand around one-third of the bunny’s height.

Main Bunny

Head

1. With violet, make 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. (Sc, inc) around. (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
6. (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
7. (5 sc, inc) around. (42)
8. (6 sc, inc) around. (48)
9. (7 sc, inc) around. (54)
10. (8 sc, inc) around. (60)
11. Sc around for 10 rounds. (60)

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Place the eyes wide apart, slightly below the horizontal center of the head. The face in the image looks calm and gentle, so keep the eyes level. Add light stuffing before eye placement so the cheeks remain softly full.

1. (8 sc, dec) around. (54)
2. (7 sc, dec) around. (48)
3. (6 sc, dec) around. (42)
4. (5 sc, dec) around. (36)
5. (4 sc, dec) around. (30)

Stuff firmly. Shape the cheeks with your fingers as you fill. The head should be round without a pointed chin. Continue closing:

1. (3 sc, dec) around. (24)
2. (2 sc, dec) around. (18)
3. (Sc, dec) around. (12)
4. Dec around to close. Fasten off, leaving a tail if sewing to a neck opening. If you prefer a stronger neck join, keep the final opening slightly wider.

Facial Shaping

Use pink embroidery thread for a short horizontal nose centered between the eyes. From the center of the nose, embroider a tiny vertical line downward. The mouth in the image is minimal, so avoid a wide smile. A tiny straight detail works best.

If desired, make a very light indentation from eye corners toward the nose using sewing thread. Keep it subtle. This doll looks soft and sweet, not deeply sculpted. The eyes should catch light, while the nose remains delicate and understated.

Ears Make 2

1. With violet, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. (Sc, inc) around. (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Sc around for 4 rounds. (24)
6. (2 sc, dec) around. (18)
7. Sc around for 8 rounds. (18)
8. Flatten lightly and crochet 9 sc through both layers at the top, or leave open for sewing.

The ears should be plump near the top and slightly narrower toward the tip. Do not overstuff. Add only a trace of stuffing in the upper half or leave them unstuffed if your yarn is thick. Sew the ears low on the sides of the head so they frame the face.

Body

The body is compact because most of the visual volume comes from the skirt. Keep the torso neat and centered so the doll stands well once the legs and dress are attached.

1. With violet, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. (Sc, inc) around. (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Sc around for 3 rounds. (24)
6. (2 sc, dec) around. (18)
7. Sc around for 4 rounds. (18)
8. (Sc, dec) around. (12)
9. Sc around 2 rounds. (12)

Stuff the lower body well. The upper body may be filled more lightly to allow the capelet to sit smoothly. Leave a long tail for sewing to the head if worked separately.

Arms Make 2

1. With violet, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. (Sc, inc) around. (9)
3. Sc around for 2 rounds. (9)
4. Dec, 7 sc. (8)
5. Sc around for 8 rounds. (8)

Stuff only the hand area and a little into the lower arm. Flatten the top and close with 4 sc through both layers. Sew the arms slightly below neck level, angled downward. In the image, the arms rest close to the body and do not extend outward.

Legs Make 2

1. With violet, ch 6. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side, sc 3, inc in last. (12)
2. Inc, sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x2. (18)
3. Sc around in BLO. (18)
4. Sc 5, dec x2, sc 7, dec. (15)
5. Sc 4, dec x2, sc 5, dec. (12)
6. Sc around for 6 rounds. (12)

Stuff the foot and lower leg firmly. Keep the ankle straight. Fasten off first leg. Make the second leg but do not fasten off. Join the legs with 3 chains or sew them close together at the inner thigh, depending on your preferred construction.

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Joining Legs and Upper Torso Base

1. After joining, work evenly around both legs and the joining chains to create a total comfortable base for the skirt. Aim for about 30 to 36 stitches depending on your yarn size.
2. Sc around for 2 rounds.
3. If needed, adjust with a few evenly spaced increases to create a gentle bell shape under the bodice.

The visible body above the skirt is small. If you prefer, the legs may be sewn directly to the finished torso and the dress worked separately over the joined body. Choose the method that gives the cleanest silhouette.

Dress

Bodice

Join pale lavender around the waistline or around the lower torso where you want the dress to begin. The bodice should fit close to the upper body and then expand into the tiered skirt.

1. Work one round of sc evenly around the torso.
2. Work 2 to 3 more rounds of sc or hdc, keeping the fit smooth.
3. If needed, place a few increases around the bust line so the skirt falls naturally from below the arms.

The dress in the image is simple at the upper section and becomes decorative through the layered lower skirt. Keep the upper dress clean and understated.

Tier 1 Base

1. From the bodice lower edge, work one round of hdc with evenly spaced increases until the skirt begins to flare.
2. Work 3 more rounds in hdc or dc.
3. On the final round, create a slight ridge by working in BLO. This helps define the first tier edge.

Tier 2

Return to the unused front loops from the ridge round of Tier 1. Join lavender yarn and work around. Increase gently across the round to create a second flounce that sits over the first tier, not far away from it.

1. Work 1 round with small increases.
2. Work 2 to 3 rounds of dc.
3. Finish with 1 round of hdc or sc for a neat edge.

Tier 3

Return to the next available loop line above Tier 2 or create the third layer by surface joining into a higher dress round. Repeat the same construction, but make this tier slightly shorter so the three layers stack visibly from top to bottom.

The image shows three rounded horizontal skirt levels, each with a softly structured rim. Avoid ruffles that are too wavy. The silhouette should look refined rather than frilly.

Skirt Embroidery

Using dusty pink thread, add tiny floral star stitches or small wrapped knots spaced across the visible tier surfaces. Place them sparingly. Each one should be tiny, about the size of two stitches. The skirt does not look heavily decorated, only gently sprinkled with little blossoms.

If desired, sew a tiny bead or French-knot center into a few flowers. Keep the decoration balanced across all visible tiers. Do not crowd the hem.

Capelet

The capelet is one of the most important pieces in the design. It sits like a short rounded shoulder collar in cream and closes at the front with a single pearl-like bead. The lower edge is embroidered with tiny pink rose motifs and green leaf hints.

1. With cream, ch enough to fit comfortably around the neck opening.
2. Work short rows or a worked-flat semicircle so the piece spreads over the shoulders.
3. Use hdc or dc to build gentle rounded points at the front edges.
4. Add 4 to 6 rows total, increasing near the edges so the cape lays flat.

Shape the lower edge into a smooth scalloped curve, not sharp corners. The front opening should meet at the neck with a small gap. Sew or attach a pearl bead at the center front. You may use a loop or simply tack the two sides together lightly.

Capelet Embroidery

• Work tiny rosebud clusters near both front corners.
• Use soft pink for the petals.
• Add a few pale green straight stitches for leaves if you like.
• Keep the decoration symmetrical from left to right.

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The embroidered details should sit right above the lower border, matching the image. Do not scatter motifs all over the cape. Concentrate them near the front outer corners.

Hat

Hat Base

The hat is a small cream round hat worn at an angle. It looks structured, with a narrow brim and shallow crown. It sits toward one side of the head, partly above the ear.

1. With cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around to 12, then increase gradually to a flat circle sized for the crown top.
3. Work several rounds without increasing to form the side of the crown.
4. Then add a brim by increasing lightly over 1 or 2 rounds.
5. Finish with a neat edge round.

Hat Band and Pearl Detail

Work or sew a soft raised band around the base of the crown. Add a cluster of tiny pearl beads near the top front of the hat. The pearls in the image form a decorative accent just behind the flower arrangement.

Veil

Cut a narrow strip of fine mesh or tulle and gather it slightly. Sew it around one side of the hat so it drapes across the forehead and toward one ear. The veil should be airy and light, not covering the whole face.

Hat Flowers

• Make 2 or 3 white flowers with rounded petals.
• Make 1 or 2 lavender-purple flowers as accents.
• Add tiny yellow, cream, or pearl centers.
• Arrange them in a small cluster on the top front side of the hat.

The flower cluster should look balanced and garden-like. Let the white blooms dominate, with purple flowers adding contrast. Sew the hat to the head at a slight angle so it feels elegant and playful.

Shoes Make 2

The bunny wears neat pink shoes with a rounded Mary Jane look. Each shoe has a little strap detail and a pearl-like embellishment near the outer edge.

1. With pink, begin with a small oval sole that matches the foot size.
2. Work 2 rounds around the chain foundation to create the sole.
3. Work 1 round in BLO to turn upward.
4. Continue for several rounds, decreasing over the toe until the shoe fits snugly.
5. Add a short strap across the top using chains and a few sc.

Sew the shoes onto the feet or keep them removable if the fit is firm. Add a tiny pearl bead on each shoe for the polished finish visible in the image.

Purse

The purse is a small violet clutch with a flap and a single pearl clasp. It should sit low and rectangular, with softly rounded edges.

1. With violet, chain the width of the purse.
2. Work around the chain to create a narrow oval or rectangle.
3. Continue in rounds until the pouch reaches the desired height.
4. Flatten and add a flap worked back and forth over one side.
5. Sew a pearl bead at the flap center.

Keep the purse small enough to look miniature beside the bunny, but large enough that the flap shape is clear.

Fan

The fan is a pale lavender and pink accessory shaped like an opened hand fan. It has a scalloped upper edge and a narrower base.

1. With lavender, begin with a small base ring or short chain row.
2. Increase outward in rows using hdc, dc, and tr to create a spreading semicircle.
3. Work a scalloped edge in pale lavender or cream.
4. Add a pink lower section or fan ribs using embroidery.

The fan should lie flat and read clearly as a decorative accessory. Do not make it too large. In the image, it is smaller than the purse and lower than the bunny’s shoes.

Candle

The candle is tiny and delicate, with a cream body, a small saucer-like base, and a warm orange flame.

1. With cream, make a tiny cylinder and stuff lightly.
2. Work a small flat circle in lavender or pink for the saucer.
3. For the flame, crochet a tiny teardrop in yellow and orange or embroider it.
4. Sew the candle to the saucer.

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This piece is very small, so neat shaping matters more than stitch complexity. Keep it simple and upright.

Flower Bouquet

The bouquet appears as a compact cluster of lavender blossoms with a tied base. It should feel soft and romantic, matching the hat flowers and dress palette.

• Make several tiny five-petal flowers in pale lavender.
• Layer two or three flowers if you want fuller blossoms.
• Gather them tightly into a rounded cluster.
• Wrap the base with a small strip of yarn or a few stitches.
• Add a tiny ribbon bow if desired.

The bouquet should be slightly wider at the top and narrow at the handle, like a miniature posy.

Tiny Pig Companion

The pig is small, pink, and dressed to match the bunny. It wears a pale lavender lower dress, a cream capelet, and a tiny decorated hat. Its face is simple, with very small eyes and a neat snout.

Head and Body

1. With pink, make 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Increase gradually to a rounded head of about 24 to 30 stitches.
3. Work several plain rounds.
4. Continue directly into the body or sew separately after making a smaller pear-shaped torso.

The pig should look squat and cute, with very short proportions. The body is much simpler than the bunny’s body because the visual focus is on the outfit and the tiny face.

Snout

1. Make a small oval in pink.
2. Sew it centered low on the face.
3. Embroider two nostrils with darker pink or brown thread.

Ears Make 2

1. With pink, make a tiny circle or oval.
2. Fold slightly and sew to the top sides of the head.

Arms and Legs

The limbs can be tiny stub shapes. Keep them short so the pig remains compact and toy-like. The dress can cover most of the body and upper legs.

Pig Dress

Work a short flared skirt in pale lavender. It should echo the bunny’s dress but be much simpler, with one softly ruffled lower section rather than three large tiers.

Pig Capelet

Make a miniature cream capelet using the same method as the bunny version. Keep it short and rounded, closing at the neck.

Pig Hat

Create a tiny cream hat and add one or two lavender flowers. Sew it slightly to one side. The tiny hat completes the coordinated look between both figures.

Assembly Order

1. Sew bunny head to body securely.
2. Sew ears to head, low and close to the cheeks.
3. Sew arms to upper torso.
4. Attach legs if not already joined.
5. Dress the body with the lavender gown.
6. Sew on the capelet and front pearl closure.
7. Attach shoes.
8. Sew hat in place after positioning the veil and flower cluster.
9. Complete all accessories.
10. Assemble the pig and dress it last.

Styling Tips for the Exact Look

• Use a slightly deeper violet for the bunny than for the dress.
• Keep the dress pale and dusty, not bright pastel.
• The cream sections should feel warm and antique, not pure stark white.
• The flower details should be tiny and sparse.
• The overall set should look elegant, not crowded.

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Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the head angle before sewing permanently. The bunny looks best with the face straight and calm. Make sure both ears hang evenly. Confirm that the cape sits flat and that the hat slants gently to one side without hiding both eyes.

For the face, keep everything delicate. The eyes should be glossy and evenly placed. The nose should be a tiny pink bar with a short center line. Avoid oversized blush, large smiles, or heavy sculpting, because the original look is soft and refined.

Care Notes

• Display pieces are best kept away from heavy moisture.
• If giving to a child, replace beads and safety details with embroidered alternatives.
• Store the fan, candle, and bouquet together so the smallest accessories do not get lost.
• Keep the veil flat when not in use.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head firmly stuffed and centered
• Ears level and symmetrical
• Dress shaped into three visible tiers
• Capelet embroidered near both front corners
• Hat angled and decorated with flowers and veil
• Shoes attached neatly
• Purse flap closed with pearl detail
• Fan, candle, bouquet, and pig companion completed

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Dust the set gently with a soft dry brush. For light marks, blot carefully with a barely damp cloth and let the pieces air dry fully. Do not soak the hat veil or embroidered sections. Avoid hanging the doll by the ears, hat, or cape.

If storing long term, wrap each accessory separately in soft tissue and place the doll upright in a breathable box. Keep away from direct sun to preserve the lavender and violet shades. A stable, dry environment will help the set hold its shape beautifully over time.