Basque-Bodice Blossom Bunny – Crochet

Basque-Bodice Blossom Bunny – Crochet

This elegant amigurumi bunny set brings together a soft heirloom rabbit, a romantic basque-waist dress, a flowered hat, tiny shoes, a structured handbag, a swan companion, a lace accent, and a small key charm. It is ideal for makers and shoppers searching for a crochet bunny doll, a handmade bunny gift, or a collectible nursery rabbit.

The finished set has a polished boutique look while still feeling sweet and gentle. If you love browsing for an amigurumi rabbit doll, a spring plush bunny, a crochet animal keepsake, or a giftable handmade doll set, this design captures that same charming mood in yarn.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

  • Main bunny color: light cream cotton or cotton-blend yarn, sport or light DK weight
  • Dress, hat, shoes, bag, and swan skirt color: dusty blush pink cotton yarn in the same weight
  • Swan body color: white cotton yarn
  • Swan beak: orange yarn
  • Accent color for key heart: red yarn
  • Doily: white crochet thread or very fine cotton yarn
  • Hook sizes: 2.25 mm for the doll and accessories, 1.75 mm for the doily and tiny flower details if needed
  • Safety eyes: 8 mm black for bunny, 6 mm black for swan, or embroider if preferred
  • Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers
  • Small amount of cardboard or plastic canvas for bag base if you want a crisp shape
  • Craft wire or pipe cleaner, optional for bag handle firmness
  • Tiny bead or pearl, optional for swan head embellishment and hat flower centers

Finished Size

The bunny stands about 9 to 10 inches tall from feet to the top of the head, not including the hat brim. The swan companion is about 4 inches tall. The handbag is sized to sit beside the doll and visually reaches to about knee height when placed upright.

Gauge and Fabric Notes

Use a hook size that gives you a firm fabric with no visible gaps. The stitches in the photo are compact, even, and neat, with smooth shaping and very little stretch. If stuffing shows through, go down a hook size.

This design depends on clean shaping, balanced stuffing, and careful assembly angles. The head is large and round, the torso is slim, the arms are long and lightly stuffed, and the ears fall low from the sides of the crown.

Abbreviations

  • MR = magic ring
  • ch = chain
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet
  • inc = 2 sc in same stitch
  • dec = invisible decrease
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • tr = treble crochet
  • FLO = front loop only
  • BLO = back loop only
  • st = stitch
  • sts = stitches

General Construction Notes

  • The bunny is made in separate parts and sewn together.
  • The head and body are separate to keep the delicate neckline seen in the photo.
  • The dress is made in two sections: a fitted bodice and a wide scalloped overskirt.
  • The bodice includes a front decorative panel that echoes the central floral lace look in the image.
  • The hat is shallow, soft, and slightly tilted, with a front brim and raised floral trim.
  • The shoes are Mary Jane style with ankle straps and tiny blossoms at the toes.
  • The swan has a curved neck, rounded wings, and its own blush skirt.

Bunny Head

Round Head Base

  1. With cream, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
  2. Inc in each st around. 12 sts
  3. (Sc, inc) around. 18 sts
  4. (2 sc, inc) around. 24 sts
  5. (3 sc, inc) around. 30 sts
  6. (4 sc, inc) around. 36 sts
  7. (5 sc, inc) around. 42 sts
  8. (6 sc, inc) around. 48 sts
  9. (7 sc, inc) around. 54 sts
  10. (8 sc, inc) around. 60 sts
  11. Sc around. 60 sts
  12. Sc around. 60 sts
  13. Sc around. 60 sts
  14. Sc around. 60 sts
  15. Sc around. 60 sts
  16. Sc around. 60 sts
  17. Sc around. 60 sts
  18. Sc around. 60 sts

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Insert the 8 mm eyes between Rounds 13 and 14, spacing them about 11 to 12 stitches apart. In the image, the eyes are placed low on the face and fairly wide, leaving room for a tiny nose centered below.

Shape the Lower Head

  1. (8 sc, dec) around. 54 sts
  2. Sc around. 54 sts
  3. (7 sc, dec) around. 48 sts
  4. (6 sc, dec) around. 42 sts
  5. (5 sc, dec) around. 36 sts
  6. Sc around. 36 sts

Stuff firmly, especially through the cheeks and upper crown, but do not overstuff the lower edge. The face in the photo is softly full, not square, and not sharply chin-shaped.

Neck Opening

  1. (4 sc, dec) around. 30 sts
  2. Sc around. 30 sts

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Keep the neck opening round and even.

Bunny Muzzle and Nose Detail

The face is very subtle. There is no protruding muzzle piece. Instead, create a soft stitched nose and a tiny suggestion of a mouth directly on the head.

  • With blush pink yarn, embroider a short horizontal nose centered about 3 rounds below the eyes.
  • Make it about 2 stitches wide.
  • Add one tiny vertical stitch down from the center.
  • Add a very small split line to suggest the mouth if desired.
  • Do not overwork the face. The photo shows a minimal, calm expression.

Bunny Ears Make 2

The ears are long, softly tapered, and hang straight down beside the face. They are not wired. They are lightly stuffed only at the top inch, or left unstuffed for a flatter drape.

  1. With cream, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
  2. Inc in each st around. 12 sts
  3. (Sc, inc) around. 18 sts
  4. (2 sc, inc) around. 24 sts
  5. (3 sc, inc) around. 30 sts
  6. Sc around. 30 sts
  7. Sc around. 30 sts
  8. (13 sc, inc, 14 sc, inc, 1 sc) around. 32 sts
  9. Sc around. 32 sts
  10. Sc around. 32 sts
  11. (14 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec) around. 30 sts
  12. Sc around. 30 sts
  13. (4 sc, dec) around. 25 sts
  14. Sc around. 25 sts
  15. (3 sc, dec) around. 20 sts
  16. Sc around. 20 sts
  17. (2 sc, dec) around. 15 sts
  18. Sc around. 15 sts
  19. (Sc, dec) around. 10 sts

Flatten the top opening. Do not close it. Fasten off with a long tail. Press the ears gently flat with your fingers so they hang like soft ribbons. Make sure both ears are the same length.

Bunny Body

The body is slim through the chest, slightly fuller at the hips, and smooth under the dress. The torso should not be too round because the fitted bodice needs a graceful shape.

  1. With cream, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
  2. Inc in each st around. 12 sts
  3. (Sc, inc) around. 18 sts
  4. (2 sc, inc) around. 24 sts
  5. (3 sc, inc) around. 30 sts
  6. Sc around. 30 sts
  7. (4 sc, inc) around. 36 sts
  8. Sc around. 36 sts
  9. Sc around. 36 sts
  10. (10 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec) 33 sts
  11. Sc around. 33 sts
  12. (9 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 9 sc) 31 sts
  13. Sc around. 31 sts
  14. (8 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 9 sc) 29 sts
  15. Sc around. 29 sts
  16. (7 sc, dec) around, finish with 1 sc. 26 sts
  17. Sc around. 26 sts
  18. (11 sc, dec) twice. 24 sts
  19. Sc around. 24 sts

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Stuff firmly at the lower body and medium-firm at the chest. The chest should remain slim enough for the V-neck dress to sit close to the figure.

Neck

  1. (2 sc, dec) around. 18 sts
  2. Sc around. 18 sts

Fasten off with a long tail for attaching the head. Add a short neck support of rolled felt, extra stuffing, or a small fabric tube if needed.

Legs Make 2

The legs are narrow cylinders with a slight foot base. In the image, the shoes cover most of the feet, so the bare leg should stay slender and simple.

  1. With cream, ch 6. Starting in second ch from hook: 4 sc, 3 sc in last ch, working on opposite side 3 sc, inc. 12 sts
  2. Inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc. 18 sts
  3. Sc in BLO around. 18 sts
  4. 5 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 7 sc. 16 sts
  5. 4 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 6 sc. 14 sts
  6. Sc around. 14 sts
  7. Sc around. 14 sts
  8. Sc around. 14 sts
  9. Sc around. 14 sts
  10. Sc around. 14 sts
  11. Sc around. 14 sts
  12. Sc around. 14 sts

Stuff the foot firmly and the leg lightly to medium. Fasten off on the first leg. On the second leg, do not cut yarn if you prefer joining both to the body with sewing later. Since the skirt is separate, sewing the legs first often gives better control.

Arms Make 2

The arms are long, straight, and gently tapered. They hang down beside the skirt and reach to about mid-skirt level. Keep the stuffing light so they rest naturally.

  1. With cream, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
  2. Inc in each st around. 12 sts
  3. Sc around. 12 sts
  4. (4 sc, dec) twice. 10 sts
  5. Sc around. 10 sts
  6. Sc around. 10 sts
  7. Sc around. 10 sts
  8. Sc around. 10 sts
  9. Sc around. 10 sts
  10. Sc around. 10 sts
  11. Sc around. 10 sts
  12. Sc around. 10 sts

Flatten the top opening and sew closed. Leave a long tail for attaching. Optional: add one or two extra rounds if your doll body is slightly longer.

Dress Bodice

The upper dress has a deep but modest V-neck, tiny cap sleeves, and a fitted basque-style waist that extends downward at the center. The look is elegant and tailored rather than puffy at the top.

Bodice Foundation

Work the bodice in rows first, then join and shape around the waist. Use blush pink.

  1. Ch 26.
  2. Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 25 sc. Ch 1, turn.
  3. Row 2: 25 sc. Ch 1, turn.
  4. Row 3: 6 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 6 sc. Ch 1, turn. 23 sts
  5. Row 4: 23 sc. Ch 1, turn.
  6. Row 5: 5 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 5 sc. Ch 1, turn. 21 sts

Wrap around the bunny torso to test the fit. It should sit firmly but not strain. Sew or slip stitch the short sides together to form a tube.

Upper Chest Shaping

Now work around the top edge of the tube.

  1. Round 1: Sc evenly around top edge. Mark center front. Aim for 21 sts.
  2. Round 2: Work 7 sc, ch 3, skip 3, 1 sc at center dip, ch 3, skip 3, 8 sc. This begins the V-neck opening.
  3. Round 3: Sc around, placing 3 sc in each ch-3 space. Keep the center front slightly lower than the back.

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The neckline should form a gentle V, matching the image. Do not make it too low. The chest remains covered while still showing the V shape.

Cap Sleeves

Attach yarn at one armhole edge.

  • Work 6 hdc across the arm opening area.
  • Turn, dec, 2 hdc, dec. 4 sts
  • Turn, sc across.

Fasten off. Repeat for second sleeve. The sleeves in the photo are small rounded caps, not puff sleeves. They should sit close to the shoulders.

Basque Waist Extension

Attach blush yarn at center front lower edge of the bodice.

  1. Row 1: Sc 9 centered stitches across the front. Ch 1, turn.
  2. Row 2: Dec, 5 sc, dec. Ch 1, turn. 7 sts
  3. Row 3: 7 sc. Ch 1, turn.
  4. Row 4: Inc, 5 sc, inc. Ch 1, turn. 9 sts
  5. Row 5: 9 sc.

This creates the little pointed lower front shape that gives the dress its basque silhouette.

Decorative Front Panel

The center front of the dress shows a raised lacy floral panel. Make a small overlay and sew it neatly onto the front waist.

  1. With blush, ch 10.
  2. Row 1: 9 sc. Ch 1, turn.
  3. Row 2: 2 sc, ch 1, skip 1, 2 sc, ch 1, skip 1, 2 sc. Ch 1, turn.
  4. Row 3: Sc across, placing 1 sc in each ch-1 space. Ch 1, turn.
  5. Row 4: 1 sc, ch 3, skip 2, 1 sc, ch 3, skip 2, 1 sc. Ch 1, turn.
  6. Row 5: Sc across.

Embroider or surface-crochet tiny swirls or petal outlines to echo the floral look from the image. Sew this panel to the center front bodice, directly above the skirt line.

Main Skirt

The skirt is wide, structured, and composed of firm rounds that flare out from the waist. The hem has a deep scalloped finish. The photo also suggests a layered look, so this section includes a lightly lifted underscallop effect.

Skirt Base

Join blush yarn to lower edge of the bodice. Work evenly around the waist. Increase steadily for the flare.

  1. Round 1: Sc evenly around lower edge, including the basque extension. Aim for 36 sts.
  2. Round 2: (5 sc, inc) around. 42 sts
  3. Round 3: Sc around. 42 sts
  4. Round 4: (6 sc, inc) around. 48 sts
  5. Round 5: Sc around. 48 sts
  6. Round 6: (7 sc, inc) around. 54 sts
  7. Round 7: Sc around. 54 sts
  8. Round 8: (8 sc, inc) around. 60 sts
  9. Round 9: Sc around. 60 sts
  10. Round 10: (9 sc, inc) around. 66 sts
  11. Round 11: Sc around. 66 sts

Steam lightly or finger-shape the skirt so it opens into a smooth bell. The image shows a skirt that stands out neatly, not limp and not extremely ruffled.

Raised Lower Layer

To suggest the extra lower edge seen under the scalloped hem, use a front-loop row one round above the final hem.

  1. Round 12: Work in FLO only, sc around. 66 sts
  2. Round 13: In both loops again, sc around. 66 sts

Now return to the unused back loops of Round 12.

  • Attach yarn and work hdc in each stitch around.
  • This creates a subtle lower ledge that peeks beneath the final scallops.

Scalloped Hem

  1. Round 14: Scallop repeat: skip 1, 5 dc in next st, skip 1, sl st in next st. Repeat around.

Adjust the stitch count slightly if needed so the scallops end evenly. The hem in the image has rounded petal-like lobes, not pointed shells. If your scallops curl, reduce each shell to 4 dc.

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Hat

The hat is a soft cloche-style cap with a shallow crown, a front brim, and floral trim concentrated across the front. It sits tilted slightly to one side rather than centered perfectly flat.

Hat Crown

  1. With blush, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
  2. Inc in each st around. 12 sts
  3. (Sc, inc) around. 18 sts
  4. (2 sc, inc) around. 24 sts
  5. (3 sc, inc) around. 30 sts
  6. (4 sc, inc) around. 36 sts
  7. (5 sc, inc) around. 42 sts
  8. Sc around. 42 sts
  9. Sc around. 42 sts
  10. Sc around. 42 sts

Lower Hat and Brim

  1. (5 sc, dec) around. 36 sts
  2. Sc around. 36 sts
  3. In FLO, (2 sc, inc) around. 48 sts
  4. Sc around. 48 sts

For a slightly waved front edge, add one more partial round only across the front half: hdc in 20 to 24 stitches, then fasten off. This makes the brim dip forward like the one in the image.

Hat Flowers Make 2 Large Spirals and 2 Small Leaves

Spiral flowers:

  • Ch 18.
  • In second ch from hook, work 2 sc in each ch across.
  • Roll into a spiral rose and stitch the base.

Leaves:

  • Ch 6.
  • Starting in second ch from hook: sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st.

Sew the roses and leaves across the front left side of the hat. Add tiny knots or beads at centers if desired. Keep the decoration flat and elegant, not oversized.

Shoes Make 2

The shoes are closed-toe Mary Janes with a strap over the instep and tiny blossom details at the front. They should fit closely over the feet and stop just below the ankle.

Shoe Sole

  1. With blush, ch 6. Starting in second ch: 4 sc, 3 sc in last ch, opposite side 3 sc, inc. 12 sts
  2. Inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc. 18 sts
  3. Sc in BLO around. 18 sts
  4. 5 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 7 sc. 16 sts
  5. 4 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 6 sc. 14 sts

Upper Shoe

  1. Sc around. 14 sts
  2. 3 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc. 12 sts
  3. Sc around. 12 sts

Fasten off and leave a tail for joining the back seam if needed. Slip the shoe onto the foot.

Instep Strap

  • Attach yarn at one side of the shoe opening.
  • Ch 8, skip across instep, sl st to opposite side.
  • For a firmer strap, work back across the chain with 7 sl st.

Toe Blossoms Make 2

  • With blush, make 5 sl st into MR.
  • Pull tight to form a tiny flower.
  • Sew one on each toe.

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Structured Handbag

The bag is rectangular with a firm body, rounded flap edge, centered clasp detail, and a softly arched handle. It should stand upright when stuffed lightly or when supported with a cut insert.

Bag Base

  1. With blush, ch 13.
  2. Round 1: Starting in second ch, 11 sc, 3 sc in last ch, working opposite side 10 sc, inc. 26 sts
  3. Round 2: Inc, 10 sc, 3 inc, 10 sc, 2 inc. 32 sts
  4. Rounds 3 to 8: Sc around. 32 sts

If you want a crisper bag, cut a small rectangle of plastic canvas or cardboard and place it inside the base.

Flap

Lay the bag flat. Work across one half of the top edge.

  1. Row 1: Attach yarn and sc across 14 stitches. Ch 1, turn.
  2. Row 2: Dec, 10 sc, dec. Ch 1, turn. 12 sts
  3. Row 3: 12 sc. Ch 1, turn.
  4. Row 4: Dec, 8 sc, dec. Ch 1, turn. 10 sts
  5. Row 5: 10 sc.

Edge the flap with one round of sl st for a neat border.

Handle

  • Ch 18.
  • Work 17 sl st back across.
  • Sew each end securely to the top sides of the bag.

If desired, place a short wire inside the handle before closing it.

Clasp Detail

  • Make a tiny ring with 6 sc in MR using blush or a slightly darker tone.
  • Sew it to the center of the flap front.
  • Add one small horizontal wrap stitch under it to suggest a metal closure.

Key Charm

This tiny accessory adds a storybook touch. It can be made as a flat charm rather than a true functional key.

  • With gold or mustard yarn, ch 10.
  • Work sl st back in each chain to create the shaft.
  • At one end, make a tiny ring by joining 4 chains into a loop.
  • At the lower end, add two tiny side nubs with short chains and slip stitches.
  • With red yarn, embroider or crochet a tiny heart over the top ring area.

Mini Lace Doily

The white square lace accent in the image is delicate and simple. Use fine yarn or thread with a smaller hook.

  1. With white, ch 4 and join to form a ring.
  2. Round 1: Ch 3, 11 dc in ring, join.
  3. Round 2: Ch 5, skip 1 st, dc in next. Repeat around to form open spaces.
  4. Round 3: In each space work 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. Join.
  5. Round 4: To square it, work corners as 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc and sides as 3 dc clusters or 3 dc groups.
  6. Round 5: Add a fine picot or sl st edging all around.

Block the doily flat so the openwork shows clearly.

Swan Companion

The swan is plump and compact with a long curved neck, small black eyes, white layered wings, an orange beak, and its own blush scalloped skirt. Its proportions should feel toy-like and sweet, not realistic.

Swan Body

  1. With white, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
  2. Inc in each st around. 12 sts
  3. (Sc, inc) around. 18 sts
  4. (2 sc, inc) around. 24 sts
  5. (3 sc, inc) around. 30 sts
  6. Sc around. 30 sts
  7. Sc around. 30 sts
  8. (8 sc, dec) around. 27 sts
  9. Sc around. 27 sts
  10. (7 sc, dec) around. 24 sts

Stuff firmly. Flatten the front slightly where the neck will rise.

Swan Neck and Head

  1. With white, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
  2. Rounds 2 to 8: Sc around. 6 sts
  3. Round 9: Inc around. 12 sts
  4. Round 10: (Sc, inc) around. 18 sts
  5. Rounds 11 to 13: Sc around. 18 sts
  6. Insert 6 mm eyes on the sides of the head.
  7. Round 14: (Sc, dec) around. 12 sts
  8. Round 15: (Dec) around. 6 sts

Stuff lightly through the head, very lightly through the neck. Shape the neck into a gentle forward curve and sew it to the front top of the body.

Swan Beak

  • With orange, make 4 sc in MR.
  • Round 2: (Sc, inc) twice. 6 sts
  • Round 3: Sc around.

Flatten slightly and sew to the face.

Swan Wings Make 2

  • With white, ch 7.
  • Starting in second ch from hook: sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc.
  • Work around the opposite side with sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc to make a plump leaf shape.
  • Add one extra row of surface sl st near the outer edge if you want a feather ridge.

Sew the wings high on each side of the body, angling them slightly upward.

Swan Skirt

Attach blush yarn around the lower body.

  1. Round 1: Sc evenly around. Aim for 24 sts.
  2. Round 2: (3 sc, inc) around. 30 sts
  3. Round 3: Sc around. 30 sts
  4. Round 4: Scallop repeat: skip 1, 5 dc in next st, skip 1, sl st in next st.

The little skirt should flare outward and sit low enough to frame the swan body like in the photo.

Assembly

Join the Legs to the Body

Pin the legs to the underside of the body so they sit close together. The doll in the image stands with a straight, neat stance. Sew firmly. Check that both legs are equal length before fully closing.

Attach the Head

Place the head on the neck so the face looks slightly forward, not tilted upward. Sew all around securely. Add extra stuffing into the neck area if needed before finishing.

Attach the Arms

Sew the arms at the shoulder line, slightly below the neck seam. They should angle down naturally and rest near the sides of the bodice and skirt, not stick straight outward.

Attach the Ears

Sew the ears high on the head, slightly behind the eye line, one on each side. Let them fall close to the cheeks. In the image, the ears frame the face and extend below the jaw and bodice line.

Dress Placement

If you made the bodice separately, slide it onto the bunny before sewing the arms fully if that gives you a cleaner fit. Stitch the dress in place at the shoulders, underarms, and waist if you want a fixed outfit.

Hat Placement

Set the hat on the head at a slight angle, with the floral trim forward and a little to one side. Tack it down with a few hidden stitches so it stays in position without flattening the ears.

Shoe Placement

Slide the shoes onto the feet. Stitch them in place at the heel and around the ankle strap. Keep the toe flowers centered and forward.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the symmetry of the eyes, ears, arms, and skirt before tightening the last stitches. Lightly shape the cheeks with your fingers. If desired, add a tiny blush tint under the eyes using fabric-safe color applied very sparingly.

Make sure the nose remains delicate. A large nose will change the whole expression. Keep all facial details soft, minimal, and centered. The calm look in the image comes from restraint, even spacing, and a rounded, well-stuffed face.

Care Notes

  • Display pieces are best kept away from constant direct sunlight.
  • Spot clean whenever possible.
  • If using safety eyes, keep the set away from very young children.
  • Store the key and other tiny accessories separately if needed.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Head round and evenly stuffed
  • Ears matched and placed at the same height
  • Dress waist fitted and centered
  • Scalloped skirt lying evenly all around
  • Hat tilted softly with flowers in front
  • Shoes aligned and straps level
  • Swan neck curved neatly and wings balanced
  • Bag standing upright with centered clasp

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Use a soft dry cloth or a clean makeup brush to remove dust from the stitches and floral trim. For small marks, dab gently with cool water and a mild soap, then blot with a towel. Do not twist, wring, or soak pieces with inserts.

Lay flat to dry and reshape the skirt scallops, hat brim, ears, and swan wings while damp. For long-term storage, wrap each item in clean tissue and place it in a breathable box. Keep it away from humidity, heat, and rough handling so the shaping stays crisp.

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