Foxglove Sugarharbor Bear – Crochet

This charming handmade bear set blends a soft heirloom look with sweet cottage details, making it ideal for readers who love collectible amigurumi dolls, artisan teddy bears, and boutique nursery decor. The bear wears a foxglove garden dress, a ruffled bonnet, a short capelet cardigan, and tiny shoes, with matching accessories arranged beside her.

The full set also includes a little mouse companion, a flower vase, a tiny poetry book, and a curved purse, giving the finished display the feel of a premium handmade gift set or keepsake soft toy collection. Every piece is written to match the scene closely while staying beginner-friendly and practical to follow.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main yarn weight: Light worsted or DK cotton yarn for crisp stitch definition.
• Bear colors: soft blush beige, dusty rose, cream, mauve, lilac, medium pink, deep pink, olive green, brown.
• Mouse colors: cream, pale pink, lavender, dusty pink, black.
• Accessory colors: pale blush, cream, tan, pink, lilac, plum, olive green.
• Hook sizes: 2.25 mm to 3.0 mm. Use the smaller hook for amigurumi and the larger hook for garments if needed.
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill.
• Eyes: 8 mm black safety eyes for the bear, 4 mm black beads or tiny safety eyes for the mouse.
• Needle: tapestry needle for sewing and embroidery.
• Stitch markers
• Thin cardboard or plastic canvas: optional for book support.
• Craft wire: optional, only for shaping flower stems if desired.
• Small snap, button bead, or sewn nub: for purse closure.

Finished Size

• Bear: about 10 to 11 inches tall seated in shoes, about 11.5 to 12 inches standing including bonnet ruffle.
• Mouse: about 4.5 to 5 inches tall.
• Vase: about 2.5 inches tall.
• Book: about 1.5 inches tall.
• Purse: about 2.25 inches wide.

Gauge and Tension Notes

Keep stitches firm so the stuffing does not show through. The bear in the image has dense, even rounds with a smooth surface and very little visible gap between stitches. The garments are slightly softer than the body but still structured.

If your stitches run loose, move down a hook size. The rounded head, compact muzzle, and neat dress silhouette depend more on tight consistency than exact yarn brand. Check proportions often as you work so the set keeps its gentle storybook scale.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• inc = 2 sc in one stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• FLO = front loop only
• BLO = back loop only
• bob = 4-dc bobble in one stitch, closed together
• rep = repeat

Design Overview

The main bear has a large round head, very small ears, a compact oval muzzle, straight tubular arms, short sturdy legs, and a pear-shaped body hidden under a full skirt. The bonnet frames the face with a two-tone frill. The cream cardigan is short, rounded, and tied at the neck.

The dress is the centerpiece. It is dusty pink with vertical foxglove stems, layered leaves, and raised flowers in pink and lilac. The hem is lightly finished in cream. The mouse echoes the same styling with a cream capelet and lavender skirt, helping the whole arrangement feel coordinated.

Color Placement Guide

• Bear body: soft blush beige
• Nose: warm brown
• Bonnet outer ruffle and ties: cream
• Bonnet inner band: mauve-plum
• Cardigan: cream
• Dress base: dusty pink with cream hem
• Foxglove flowers: deep pink, rose pink, medium pink, lilac, purple
• Leaves and stems: olive green
• Shoes: dusty rose pink
• Mouse skirt: lavender

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Bear Head

Round Head

1. With blush beige, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. Rep 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rep 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. Rep 3 sc, inc around. (30)
6. Rep 4 sc, inc around. (36)
7. Rep 5 sc, inc around. (42)
8. Rep 6 sc, inc around. (48)
9. Rep 7 sc, inc around. (54)
10. Rep 8 sc, inc around. (60)
11. Rep 9 sc, inc around. (66)
12. Sc around for 14 rounds. (66)

This long plain section creates the broad, smooth face seen in the image. Keep stuffing gradual and even. Do not overstuff yet, because you still need room to shape the muzzle and slightly flatten the lower front face during assembly.

Safety Eye Placement

Insert the 8 mm eyes between rounds 16 and 17 of the head, spaced about 12 stitches apart. The eyes sit slightly outside the muzzle area and a little lower than center, giving the bear a calm, thoughtful expression.

Head Shaping and Closing

1. Rep 9 sc, dec around. (60)
2. Rep 8 sc, dec around. (54)
3. Rep 7 sc, dec around. (48)
4. Rep 6 sc, dec around. (42)
5. Rep 5 sc, dec around. (36)
6. Rep 4 sc, dec around. (30)

Stuff firmly now, especially the top half. The head should stay very round with a gentle downward fullness toward the muzzle. Continue:

1. Rep 3 sc, dec around. (24)
2. Rep 2 sc, dec around. (18)
3. Rep 1 sc, dec around. (12)
4. Dec around to close. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Muzzle

The muzzle is small compared with the head and sits low on the face. It should be softly stuffed, not puffy. This helps keep the look refined rather than cartoonish.

1. With blush beige, ch 6.
2. Starting in second ch from hook: 4 sc, 3 sc in last ch, working on opposite side 3 sc, inc in final ch. (12)
3. Inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc. (18)
4. Sc around. (18)
5. Rep 5 sc, inc around. (21)
6. Sc around. (21)

Fasten off with a long tail. Stuff lightly. Sew between rounds 18 and 24 of the head, centered between the eyes. The muzzle should project gently and cover much of the lower center face, but not reach the eyes.

Nose and Mouth Sculpting

Embroider a small rounded triangle nose in brown across the upper center of the muzzle. The nose in the image is short and wide rather than tall. Add one straight embroidered line downward from the nose, then work a tiny split mouth with two short angled stitches.

For subtle shaping, run strong thread from the underside of the head up to the inner eye area and back down on both sides. Pull only slightly. This gives the face a gentle contour while keeping the sweet, soft look.

Ears Make 2

1. With blush beige, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. Rep 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. Sc around. (18)
5. Rep 1 sc, dec around. (12)

Flatten each ear without stuffing. Sew the ears to the upper sides of the head between about rounds 8 and 12. They should peek out from behind the bonnet frill and remain small compared with the large head.

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Arms Make 2

The arms are simple, smooth tubes with a light downward taper. They hang straight and end a little below the waistline of the dress.

1. With blush beige, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. Rep 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. Sc around for 18 rounds. (18)
5. Rep 7 sc, dec twice. (16)
6. Sc around for 3 rounds. (16)

Stuff the lower half only. Flatten the top opening and sew closed. Leave a long tail for attaching. The finished arms should look softly weighted, not stiff.

Legs Make 2

Foot Base

1. With blush beige, ch 7.
2. Starting in second ch: 5 sc, 3 sc in last ch, 4 sc on opposite side, inc in last. (14)
3. Inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc. (20)
4. Sc around in BLO. (20)
5. Sc 6, dec twice, sc 8, dec twice. (16)
6. Sc around. (16)

Leg Tube

1. Rep 6 sc, dec twice. (14)
2. Sc around for 10 rounds. (14)

Stuff the foot firmly and the leg lightly. Flatten the top opening. Do not fasten off the second leg if you prefer to join both into the body. The legs are short and sturdy, with the feet angled slightly forward.

Body

The body is mostly hidden by the dress, but the shape still matters. It should be rounded at the lower half and narrower at the shoulders. Join the legs with the feet facing forward.

1. Join both legs with 4 ch, sc around first leg, sc across chains, sc around second leg, sc across opposite side of chains. Adjust to about 36 stitches total.
2. Sc around for 3 rounds. (36)
3. Rep 5 sc, inc around. (42)
4. Sc around for 3 rounds. (42)
5. Rep 5 sc, dec around. (36)
6. Sc around for 2 rounds. (36)
7. Rep 4 sc, dec around. (30)
8. Sc around for 2 rounds. (30)
9. Rep 3 sc, dec around. (24)
10. Sc around for 2 rounds. (24)

Stuff well, especially around the hips and lower belly. Continue shaping the neck:

1. Rep 2 sc, dec around. (18)
2. Sc around. (18)

Fasten off with a long tail. Sew the body firmly to the head so the bear stands upright when balanced. The neck must be secure because the head is proportionally large.

Bear Shoes Make 2

The shoes are low Mary Jane style slippers in dusty rose. They cover the top of the feet and have a narrow strap effect across the instep.

1. With dusty rose, ch 7.
2. Starting in second ch: 5 sc, 3 sc in last ch, 4 sc, inc. (14)
3. Inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc. (20)
4. Sc around in BLO. (20)
5. Sc around. (20)
6. Sc 6, dec 4, sc 6. (16)
7. Sc 5, dec 3, sc 5. (13)

Fasten off. Sew or slip stitch the shoes directly onto the stuffed feet. Add a narrow chained strap or embroidered bar across the instep if you want to define the shoe opening more clearly.

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Dress Bodice

The dress is worked from the top down. It has a simple fitted upper section in dusty pink and expands into a full skirt. The flower scene is added after the base dress is completed.

1. With dusty pink, ch 30 and join carefully. This should fit the upper torso under the arms.
2. Work 4 rounds of hdc evenly. (30)
3. Next round: rep 4 hdc, inc around. (36)
4. Work 2 rounds even. (36)
5. Next round: rep 5 hdc, inc around. (42)
6. Work 2 rounds even. (42)

At this point the dress should slide over the body and sit just beneath the cardigan line. If needed, add or remove a few stitches to fit your own bear snugly without pulling.

Dress Skirt

1. Next round: rep 6 hdc, inc around. (48)
2. Work 2 rounds even. (48)
3. Next round: rep 7 hdc, inc around. (54)
4. Work 2 rounds even. (54)
5. Next round: rep 8 hdc, inc around. (60)
6. Work 4 to 5 rounds even, or until the hem reaches just above the shoes. (60)

The skirt should flare softly, not stand out stiffly. The image shows a smooth bell silhouette with enough volume to display the flower embroidery and applied crochet details clearly.

Cream Hem Edge

1. Join cream to hem.
2. Work 1 round sc evenly.
3. Optional final round: sl st loosely all around for a neat corded finish.

Foxglove Motif Layout

The front of the skirt displays several upright flower stems. The central stems are pink and deeper rose, while side groups include lilac and purple tones. Leaves angle upward from the lower skirt. Arrange the motifs before sewing so spacing stays balanced.

• Center front: two tall pink foxglove stems
• Left front: one rose stem and one purple-lilac cluster
• Right front: one bright pink stem and one lilac-purple cluster
• Base leaves: layered olive leaves at the lower third of the skirt

Leaves Make About 18 to 22

1. With olive green, ch 7.
2. Starting in second ch: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc.
3. Working on opposite side of chain: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st.

Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail. Make leaves in two sizes by varying the starting chain from 5 to 8. The leaves in the image are narrow, pointed, and placed in mirrored pairs climbing around each stem.

Flower Buds and Blossoms

Small Bud

1. With pink or lilac, 4 sc in MR.
2. Inc around. (8)
3. Sc around.

Fasten off. Stuffing is optional. Most buds can remain unstuffed so they sit flat and delicate.

Open Bell Flower

1. With pink, rose, lilac, or purple, 6 sc in MR.
2. Inc around. (12)
3. Sc around. (12)
4. Work in a mix of sc and hdc around once more to form a shallow cup.
5. Final round: rep sl st, hdc, hdc in next 3 stitches to create a flared petal edge.

Flatten gently and stitch to the skirt so each flower points slightly outward from the stem. Use darker shades lower on the skirt sides and brighter pinks in the center for the same visual rhythm seen in the image.

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Stems

Embroider each stem with olive green yarn using straight or split stitches. Begin near the hem and work upward. Add short offshoot stitches for side buds. Sew leaves first, then add the flower cups and buds over the stitched stem line.

The stems should be clearly vertical but not perfectly straight. A slight curve makes the garden scene feel softer and more natural. Keep all motifs on the front half of the skirt, leaving the back plain.

Cream Cardigan Capelet

This short outer garment looks like a tiny cardigan with rounded fronts and short sleeves. It reaches just below the bust and ties at the neck. Work it in cream with a slightly softer hand than the body.

Yoke Base

1. With cream, ch 36.
2. Row 1: starting in second ch, sc across. (35)
3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across.
4. Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc 7, ch 4, skip 4, sc 13, ch 4, skip 4, sc to end.

This forms the arm openings. Try it on the bear before continuing. Adjust only if necessary.

Body of Cardigan

1. Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc across including chains.
2. Rows 5 to 10: continue sc rows.

Shape the rounded fronts:

1. On each of the next 3 rows, dec 1 stitch at both front edges.

Fasten off. Work a neat sc edging all around the cardigan, including neckline and fronts. The lower corners should become softly rounded, matching the image.

Neck Ties

1. Join cream at one neckline edge, ch 28, sl st back if you want a firmer cord.
2. Repeat on the opposite side.

Tie the cords into a small bow at the center front. Let the ends hang to about waist level.

Bonnet

The bonnet is one of the defining features of the set. It has a blush-beige cap, a mauve inner band, and a cream outer ruffle. The ruffle is pronounced and wavy, framing the face like a flower.

Bonnet Cap

1. With blush beige, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. Rep 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rep 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. Rep 3 sc, inc around. (30)
6. Rep 4 sc, inc around. (36)
7. Rep 5 sc, inc around. (42)
8. Sc around for 6 rounds. (42)

The cap should cover the crown and back of the head while leaving the whole face open.

Bonnet Side Depth

1. Work 4 short rows across the front 30 stitches, turning each row, to deepen the face frame slightly.

Fasten off.

Mauve Inner Band

1. Join mauve to the front opening edge.
2. Work 1 round sc evenly around the face opening.

Cream Frill

1. Join cream to the same face opening edge.
2. Work 2 dc in each stitch around for a soft ripple.
3. Next round: rep 2 dc in one stitch, 1 dc in next stitch around.

The ruffle should lift and wave rather than lie flat. If needed, add a few extra increases evenly. The image shows a dramatic frill that is still soft and balanced.

Bonnet Ties

1. Join cream under one side of the bonnet, ch 32, sl st back for firmness if desired.
2. Repeat on the other side.

Tie under the chin in a small bow. The ties should sit above the cardigan bow, not overlap heavily.

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Mouse Head

The mouse companion is much smaller and styled to echo the main bear. Keep the face simple and sweet with tiny eyes and a soft pink nose.

1. With cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. Rep 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. Rep 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. Rep 3 sc, inc around. (30)
6. Sc around for 6 rounds. (30)
7. Rep 3 sc, dec around. (24)
8. Rep 2 sc, dec around. (18)

Insert tiny eyes between rounds 8 and 9. Stuff firmly. Continue:

1. Rep 1 sc, dec around. (12)
2. Dec around and close.

Mouse Ears Make 2

1. With cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. Sc around.

With pale pink, embroider or crochet a small inner circle on each ear. Flatten lightly and sew high on the head.

Mouse Body, Arms, and Legs

For the body, make a simple pear shape from cream yarn beginning with 6 sc in MR, increasing to 24 stitches, working even for 4 rounds, then decreasing gradually to 14 at the neck. Stuff lightly and sew to the head.

Make two tiny arms as 8-stitch tubes in dusty pink for 5 rounds. Make two tiny legs as 8-stitch tubes in dusty pink for 6 rounds. Sew them so the mouse stands with a narrow, delicate posture.

Mouse Tail

1. With pale pink, ch 18 to 22.
2. Sl st back along the chain for a neat cord.

Sew at the lower back and curve it gently to one side.

Mouse Capelet

Make a miniature version of the cream cardigan, but shorter and more cape-like. Ch 22, work 5 rows of sc, shape very slight front curves, and add two tie cords at the neckline.

Mouse Skirt

1. With lavender, ch to fit the waist and join.
2. Work 2 rounds hdc evenly.
3. Increase slightly over the next 3 rounds to create flare.
4. For the hem, work one round of shell edging using 5 dc in every third stitch.

The image shows a softly ruffled hem with shallow waves rather than dramatic frills.

Flower Vase

The vase is small, rounded, and neutral so the flowers stand out. Work it in pale beige.

1. 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Inc around. (12)
3. Rep 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. Work 3 rounds even. (18)
5. Rep 1 sc, dec around. (12)
6. Work 2 rounds even. (12)
7. Rep 1 sc, inc around. (18)
8. Work 2 rounds even. (18)

Stuff the lower half firmly so it stands. Narrow the top slightly if needed. Add a few small flower stems in pink, plum, and lavender, using green wrapped wire or crocheted cords inserted securely.

Tiny Poetry Book

The little book is pale pink with the word “POETRY” stitched or embroidered on the front.

1. With pale pink, ch 10.
2. Work 12 rows of sc in the back-and-forth rectangle.
3. Fold around a small inner pad of white felt, foam, or stacked crochet rows to form a book shape.
4. Join the side seam neatly.

For pages, add a white insert or stitch cream lines along one edge. Embroider POETRY on the cover in dark yarn with simple straight stitches.

Curved Purse

The purse is a half-moon shape in dusty rose with a flap and a small closure nub. A tan ring handle sits at the top.

1. With dusty rose, ch 9.
2. Starting in second ch: 7 sc, 3 sc in last ch, 6 sc on opposite side, inc in last. (18)
3. Next round: inc, 6 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc. (24)
4. Work one more round even for the front piece.
5. Make a second matching piece for the back.

Sew the two pieces together along the lower curved edge only, leaving the top open. For the flap, crochet a small semicircle and sew it to the back top edge. Add a tiny bobble or bead on the body for closure. Attach a tan crocheted ring or wrapped ring handle.

Placement and Styling Notes

• The cardigan sits above the dress waist and does not hide the flower stems.
• The bonnet ruffle should frame the face fully and extend beyond the ears.
• The skirt should flare enough to show the flower garden clearly from left to right.
• The mouse should reach about knee height relative to the bear.
• The vase, book, and purse should feel small and decorative, not oversized props.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the head to the body securely, then attach the arms so they hang slightly forward at the sides. Add the muzzle, embroider the nose and mouth, and gently shape the face with a little thread sculpting if needed.

Dress the bear in the pink foxglove dress first, then add the cream cardigan and tie it in a tidy bow. Put on the bonnet last so the ruffle sits evenly around the face. Arrange the mouse, vase, book, and purse close to the bear for the same balanced display feeling.

Care Notes

• Spot clean whenever possible.
• Use cool water and mild soap for delicate cleaning.
• Do not wring the flower motifs or bonnet ruffle.
• Reshape while damp and dry flat.
• Keep away from prolonged direct sun to protect the soft pink and lilac tones.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Eyes aligned evenly on both bear and mouse
• Muzzle centered and lightly stuffed
• Bonnet ruffle full and balanced
• Cardigan fronts rounded and tied neatly
• Foxglove stems concentrated on the front of the skirt
• Shoes level so the bear stands nicely
• Mouse skirt softly flared
• Accessories scaled small beside the bear

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term display, keep the set in a clean, dry place with stable airflow. If dust builds up, use a soft brush or cool hair dryer setting from a distance. Store the purse, book, and vase in a small box when not displayed to help them keep their shape.

If the bear or mouse must be washed, place each piece in a mesh bag and hand wash gently. Press between towels, reshape the bonnet, cardigan, and skirts, and let everything dry flat. Avoid heavy hanging while wet, because it can stretch the garments and distort the silhouette.