Nigella Blue-Posthouse Bunny – Crochet

This charming crochet doll set brings together a soft bunny in layered blue clothing, a matching hat, a flower-trimmed bib, delicate shoes, a textured satchel, a tiny envelope, a hand-tied bouquet, and a sweet little mouse friend. It has the look collectors love in a handmade amigurumi doll, while still feeling approachable for anyone shopping for a heirloom bunny doll pattern, cottagecore crochet doll outfit, or handmade nursery gift idea.

The finished set has a polished boutique feel, with coordinated shades of blue, neat shaping, and small accessories that make it feel complete. If you enjoy searching for amigurumi bunny doll patterns, crochet stuffed animal sets, artisan toy patterns, or giftable handmade doll designs, this project offers plenty of detail while keeping each section organized and enjoyable to make.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light beige or warm cream cotton yarn, DK or light worsted weight.
• Dress yarn A: medium cornflower blue.
• Dress yarn B: pale sky blue.
• Accent yarn: very small amount of green for vines and leaves.
• Flower center yarn: white.
• Mouse yarn: beige, pale pink, medium blue, and pale blue.
• Hook: choose a hook small enough to produce firm stitches, usually 2.25 mm to 3 mm depending on yarn.
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill.
• Eyes: two black safety eyes for the bunny, two tiny black beads or very small safety eyes for the mouse.
• Tapestry needle for sewing and embroidery.
• Stitch markers, pins, and scissors.
• Optional: thin cardboard or plastic canvas insert for the satchel flap if you want extra structure.

Finished Size

The bunny is designed to stand about 11 to 13 inches tall, depending on yarn and tension. The mouse is much smaller, about 4 to 5 inches tall. The satchel is wide enough to sit beside the bunny, and the tiny envelope and bouquet are scaled to look like miniature props rather than full play accessories.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = 2 sc in same stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches

General Notes

This doll is worked mostly in continuous rounds unless noted otherwise. Mark the first stitch of every round. Keep the fabric firm so stuffing does not show through. The look in the photo depends on clean shaping, even tension, and careful placement of all clothing layers.

The head is large and rounded, the body is smaller and gently tapered, the ears are long and soft with little or no stuffing, the arms are simple tubes with slight shaping, and the legs are narrow with separate shoes and ankle ties. The outfit is what gives the design its signature appearance, so take your time on the bib, skirt panels, and scalloped waist trim.

Color Planning for the Set

• Use light beige for the bunny head, body, arms, legs, and ears.
• Use medium blue for the hat, sleeves, bodice trim, shoe bodies, satchel edging, mouse dress upper section, and some flower details.
• Use pale blue for the main skirt, bib interior, apron-like overskirt, satchel body, envelope body, and mouse apron panel.
• Use green and white only as embroidery accents on the bib and satchel flap.

Bunny Head

Work in beige.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. 24 sts
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) around. 30 sts
6. Round 6: (4 sc, inc) around. 36 sts
7. Round 7: (5 sc, inc) around. 42 sts
8. Round 8: (6 sc, inc) around. 48 sts
9. Round 9: (7 sc, inc) around. 54 sts
10. Rounds 10 through 19: sc around. 54 sts

Place the safety eyes between Rounds 13 and 14 with about 10 to 12 visible stitches between them. The eyes in the image sit wide apart, low on the face, giving a soft doll-like expression. Do not place them too high.

Embroider a tiny horizontal nose in pale pink or beige-pink one round below the eye line center. Add a short vertical stitch under it for the mouth. Keep this very small. The face in the photo is minimal, neat, and gentle.

1. Round 20: (7 sc, dec) around. 48 sts
2. Round 21: (6 sc, dec) around. 42 sts
3. Round 22: (5 sc, dec) around. 36 sts
4. Round 23: (4 sc, dec) around. 30 sts

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Stuff firmly and shape the cheeks with your fingers as you fill. The head should be round but slightly flattened at the lower front where it meets the neck.

1. Round 24: (3 sc, dec) around. 24 sts
2. Round 25: (2 sc, dec) around. 18 sts

Do not fasten off if you plan to join directly to the neck/body. Otherwise leave a tail for sewing.

Bunny Body

Work in beige. The body is smaller than the head and shaped like a soft peg form so the clothing drapes correctly.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. 24 sts
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) around. 30 sts
6. Rounds 6 through 10: sc around. 30 sts
7. Round 11: (3 sc, dec) around. 24 sts
8. Rounds 12 through 15: sc around. 24 sts

Stuff the lower body firmly but keep the upper body slightly softer so the head sits naturally. If you want the doll to stand better, place a little weighted filling or pellets securely in the base, inside a separate bag.

1. Round 16: (2 sc, dec) around. 18 sts
2. Rounds 17 through 18: sc around. 18 sts

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Sew the head to the body carefully, matching the face forward and keeping the chin slightly over the upper chest. The neck should be short and mostly hidden by the bib.

Legs

Make 2. Start with the shoe section in medium blue.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts
4. Round 4: sc around in BLO. 18 sts
5. Round 5: sc around. 18 sts
6. Round 6: 5 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc. 14 sts
7. Round 7: sc around. 14 sts

Change to beige for the leg.

1. Round 8: BLO sc around. 14 sts
2. Rounds 9 through 20: sc around. 14 sts

Stuff the shoe firmly and the leg lightly. Flatten the top and close with 7 sc through both layers, or leave open for sewing. Make sure both legs are the same length. Sew to the underside of the body so they hang straight and close together, just as in the image.

Shoe Strap and Crisscross Ties

With medium blue, join to the front outer side of one shoe. Chain a long strand, about 22 to 26 chains, and sl st back if you want a firmer tie. Wrap in a crisscross pattern around the ankle and lower leg, then tack the strand in place with tiny stitches. Repeat for the other shoe.

The front of each shoe also has a classic Mary Jane look. To create this, embroider or crochet a short strap across the instep before adding the crisscross ties.

Arms

Make 2 in beige.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
2. Round 2: (sc, inc) around. 9 sts
3. Rounds 3 through 12: sc around. 9 sts
4. Round 13: 2 dec, 5 sc. 7 sts
5. Rounds 14 through 16: sc around. 7 sts

Stuff only the lower half lightly, then flatten and close the top. Sew the arms to the upper body just below the neck. The arms in the image angle down and outward slightly, not straight to the sides.

Ears

Make 2 in beige. The ears are long, soft, and gently tapered, falling from beneath the hat.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts
4. Rounds 4 through 8: sc around. 18 sts
5. Round 9: (4 sc, dec) around. 15 sts
6. Rounds 10 through 16: sc around. 15 sts
7. Round 17: (3 sc, dec) around. 12 sts
8. Rounds 18 through 24: sc around. 12 sts

Flatten each ear and sew to the sides of the head, slightly behind the eye line. They should hang down to about the upper chest. Do not overstuff. A soft drape is important for matching the image.

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Dress Bodice

The dress is worked as separate clothing so the doll can be dressed. Begin with the upper bodice in medium blue. Make a foundation chain that fits around the upper body with a snug but not tight fit.

For most DK yarn and the body above, a chain of 30 to 34 works well. Join carefully without twisting.

1. Round 1: sc around. Join.
2. Round 2: hdc around.
3. Round 3: hdc around.

To shape small sleeves, work short rows or separate sleeve caps over each shoulder area. The sleeves in the photo are short, rounded, and sit slightly puffed outward.

Sleeves

Choose 6 to 8 stitches on each side for a sleeve. Join medium blue yarn.

1. Row 1: sc across sleeve stitches, ch 1, turn.
2. Row 2: dec, sc across to last 2 sts, dec.
3. Row 3: sc across.
4. Optional edging: one round of sl st or reverse sc around sleeve edge.

Repeat on the opposite side. Try the bodice on the doll and adjust placement before fastening all ends.

Scalloped Waist Trim

At the lower edge of the bodice, attach pale blue and work a decorative trim that peeks out above the skirt. This matches the wavy band seen at the waist.

1. Round 1: sc around.
2. Round 2: (sl st, skip 1, 5 dc in next st, skip 1) repeat around, adjusting evenly.

Keep the scallops small and neat. They should sit like a dainty ruffle, not a large frill.

Main Skirt

Join pale blue to the waist of the bodice. Increase enough for a gentle flare. The skirt underlayer is rounded and full, with visible horizontal rows. It sits below the pointed overskirt.

1. Round 1: work 2 hdc in every 3rd stitch around to create flare.
2. Rounds 2 through 8: hdc around.

To make the skirt fuller, add a small increase round at Round 4 or 5 if needed. The hem should reach just above the bunny ankles, leaving the shoes fully visible.

Decorative Eyelet Hem

Near the bottom of the pale blue under-skirt, create small eyelet details that echo the openwork in the image.

1. Round 9: (2 hdc, ch 1, skip 1) repeat around.
2. Round 10: hdc around, placing 1 hdc into each chain space.
3. Round 11: sc around or hdc around to finish.

Darker Blue Lower Ruffle

The image shows a darker blue layer peeking out under the pointed overskirt. This can be made as a separate ruffle attached slightly under the main skirt hem.

Join medium blue to an inner round near the lower skirt and work a lacy shell edging.

1. Round 1: (skip 1, 5 dc in next st, skip 1, sl st in next st) repeat around.

This ruffle should show beneath the overskirt points but not extend too far downward.

Pointed Overskirt Apron Panel

This is one of the most important visual details. The pale blue overskirt forms a front point and two side points, like a folded kerchief apron. Work three triangular panels, then sew or join them to the waistline.

Center Front Triangle

With pale blue, ch 2.

1. Row 1: 2 sc in second ch from hook. 2 sts
2. Row 2: ch 1, turn, inc in both sts. 4 sts
3. Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc across. 4 sts
4. Row 4: ch 1, turn, inc, sc to last st, inc. 6 sts

Continue increasing at both ends every other row until the upper edge is wide enough to cover the front of the skirt, usually 24 to 28 stitches. Then work 2 to 4 rows even.

To match the image, add openwork lines down the triangle by placing symmetrical eyelets on selected rows:

• On a right side row, work to the center section, ch 1, skip 1, then mirror the same on the opposite side.
• On the next row, sc into the chain spaces.

These eyelets should create a decorative descending pattern toward the point.

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Side Triangles

Make 2 side panels the same way, but slightly narrower. Each should overlap the sides of the front triangle a little, creating the layered three-point shape visible in the photo.

Overskirt Edging

Work one round of sc around each panel, then add a final light edge in medium blue or keep it pale blue if you prefer a softer finish. Sew the top edges to the waistline so the center point hangs low in front and the side points angle downward to the sides.

Bib Collar

The bib is square and large, sitting high over the chest. It has a pale blue center, medium blue edging, and a prominent embroidered flower with vines.

With pale blue, chain enough for a square about the width of the bunny upper torso, usually 14 to 18 chains.

1. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across.
2. Rows 2 through 12 or as needed: ch 1, turn, sc across.

Add one border round in medium blue. At the lower edge corners, add a small increase so the bib lies flat.

Neck Straps

Join medium blue at the top corners and create slender straps with chains or narrow rows of sc. These pass over the shoulders and attach to the back of the bodice.

The bib should sit almost straight across the chest, not forming a deep V. It is broad and slightly stiff-looking in the image, so keep the stitchwork tidy.

Center Flower Embroidery

Use medium blue to embroider a six-petal flower in the center of the bib. Work the petals around a small white center. Then add green vine stitches trailing outward and small leaf stitches. Keep the design symmetrical.

• Flower center: small white star or knot cluster.
• Petals: 5 or 6 detached chain stitches or satin-stitched loops in medium blue.
• Vines: curved green stem stitches.
• Leaves: tiny slanted straight stitches.

This floral panel is a focal point of the whole doll, so place it carefully and keep the threads smooth on the back.

Hat

The hat is a round cloche-like bucket shape in medium blue, with a flat top, straight sides, and a gently flared brim.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. 24 sts
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) around. 30 sts
6. Round 6: (4 sc, inc) around. 36 sts
7. Round 7: (5 sc, inc) around. 42 sts
8. Round 8: (6 sc, inc) around. 48 sts

Check the crown against the head. Increase further if needed until the top spans the head comfortably without stretching.

1. Rounds 9 through 14: sc around. These rounds form the side wall of the hat.
2. Round 15: in BLO, (7 sc, inc) around for a mild brim flare.
3. Rounds 16 through 18: sc around.
4. Round 19: optional sl st or reverse sc around for a firm edge.

The brim should roll outward slightly. Shape the hat by hand. It sits low on the head and partially covers the tops of the ears.

Satchel Bag

The satchel is worked in pale blue with a flap, medium blue trim, and a matching embroidered flower. It is rectangular and softly structured.

Main Bag Body

With pale blue, chain 16.

1. Round 1: sc in second ch from hook and across, 3 sc in last ch, continue along opposite side, 2 sc in final ch. Join.
2. Rounds 2 through 8: sc around.

Flatten the body. If desired, insert a little cardboard at the base and back before final assembly.

Flap

Join pale blue to the back top edge.

1. Row 1: sc across half the top width.
2. Rows 2 through 5: ch 1, turn, sc across.
3. Rows 6 through 8: dec at both ends each row to create the pointed flap.

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Edge the flap in medium blue. Embroider one medium blue flower with a white center and small green leaves, matching the style of the bib.

Closure and Label

Add a tiny pale button-like knot or embroidered dot to the flap tip. Sew a small cream rectangle to the lower front corner to imitate the little label seen in the image.

Tiny Envelope

With pale blue, chain 9.

1. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across.
2. Rows 2 through 6: ch 1, turn, sc across.

Fold the lower corners toward the center, then fold the bottom up to form the envelope pocket. Sew the side edges neatly. Fold the top down as a flap and tack lightly. Add one medium blue French knot or stitched dot as the seal.

Flower Bouquet

This tiny bouquet includes several small blue blossoms with green stems, gathered and wrapped.

Mini Flowers

Make 4 to 6 tiny blossoms in medium and pale blue.

1. In MR, work (ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) 5 times for a tiny five-petal flower.

Fasten off, leaving a tail. Make several flowers in slightly different blue tones. Add tiny white centers if desired.

Stems and Wrap

Use green yarn to create simple chain stems. Tie the stems together and wrap the base with beige or pale tan yarn to resemble a paper bouquet wrap or twine tie, as shown in the image.

Little Mouse Friend

The mouse is a second small doll wearing a coordinated blue outfit and tiny crossbody bag. Keep the shaping simple but proportional so it looks clearly smaller than the bunny.

Mouse Head

Work in beige.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. 24 sts
5. Rounds 5 through 9: sc around.

Insert tiny eyes between the middle rounds. Embroider a pink nose. Keep the muzzle minimal and soft.

1. Round 10: (2 sc, dec) around. 18 sts
2. Round 11: (sc, dec) around. 12 sts

Stuff and close.

Mouse Ears

Make 2 small circles in pale pink or beige with pink inner detail.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts

Flatten and sew high on the head. Add a narrow blue band across the top of the head to imitate the hat-like trim in the image.

Mouse Body

With medium blue, begin the upper body.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12 sts
3. Round 3: (sc, inc) around. 18 sts
4. Rounds 4 through 5: sc around.

Change to pale blue for the lower skirt or apron section.

1. Round 6: work slight increases evenly around.
2. Rounds 7 through 9: hdc around.

Add a medium blue ruffle at the hem using shells or small scallops. The mouse dress should echo the bunny outfit without copying every detail exactly.

Mouse Arms, Legs, and Tail

• Arms: make 2 tiny beige tubes, 6 to 8 rounds long.
• Legs: make 2 short beige legs with small blue shoe tips if desired.
• Tail: chain a thin pink tail and sew to the lower back.

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Mouse Bib and Bag

Make a very small pale blue front bib edged in medium blue. Add a thin pale blue chain strap diagonally across the body and attach a miniature side bag with a tiny flap and blue dot detail.

Dress and Accessory Placement Guide

Before sewing anything permanently, place every piece on the bunny and compare proportions. The bib should cover most of the upper chest. The hat should sit low. The overskirt point should end around the knee area. The satchel should be wider than the tiny envelope and clearly larger than the mouse bag.

• Head to body ratio: large head, smaller body.
• Ears: long and soft, reaching past the bib line.
• Arms: simple and slightly angled inward.
• Legs: narrow and straight, close together.
• Shoes: rounded toes with visible straps and crisscross ties.
• Skirt layers: pale blue main skirt, darker blue lower ruffle, pale blue pointed overskirt on top.

Order of Construction

1. Make the bunny head, body, legs, arms, and ears.
2. Assemble and shape the bunny.
3. Make the bodice and sleeves.
4. Add the scalloped waist trim.
5. Make the main skirt and lower ruffle.
6. Make and attach the pointed overskirt.
7. Make the bib and embroider the flower.
8. Make the hat.
9. Make the satchel, tiny envelope, and bouquet.
10. Make the mouse and its outfit.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the ears first, then check the hat placement before securing any ear angle. Attach the arms after the clothing fit is confirmed. Embroider the bunny nose and mouth with very short stitches, keeping the expression soft and centered. For the mouse, keep the face even simpler so the scale still looks delicate.

Lightly steam or shape the flat accessories if needed, but do not overheat synthetic yarn. Arrange the bib neatly over the bodice, tack the overskirt so the three points stay centered, and secure the shoe ties with hidden stitches so they do not shift.

Care Notes

• Store the set away from direct sunlight to protect the blue shades.
• Handle the bouquet, envelope, and mouse bag gently because they are small pieces.
• Display the bunny standing with support if needed, especially on smooth shelves.
• Keep the hat brim shaped by resting it flat when not in use.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are both eyes level and evenly spaced?
• Do the ears hang at matching heights?
• Does the bib sit centered on the chest?
• Do the overskirt points fall evenly at front and sides?
• Are both shoe ties matched in angle and length?
• Does the satchel flap close neatly and face forward?
• Is the mouse clearly smaller and visually coordinated with the bunny?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap whenever possible. For deeper cleaning, hand wash gently in cool water, press out moisture with a towel, and reshape while drying flat. Do not wring, twist, or machine dry. If the piece includes safety eyes and structured inserts, avoid soaking for long periods.

To preserve the set long-term, keep it in a clean, dry place and protect it from dust with a display case or fabric cover. Acid-free tissue can be tucked inside the hat or satchel for shape support. Check embroidered flower details occasionally and secure any loose ends before storing.