Ruby Winter Bunny – Crochet

This Ruby Winter Bunny set brings together a dressed amigurumi rabbit, a tiny bear friend, a wrapped gift box, and a striped candy cane in a polished holiday style. It suits makers looking for a handmade bunny doll, amigurumi plush, collectible crochet toy, or boutique nursery decor piece with a refined winter look.

The finished set also fits shoppers searching for a stuffed bunny gift, artisan crochet animal, holiday handmade decor, or heirloom soft toy. With soft neutrals, rich ruby red, fluffy trim, and classic accessories, the design feels ready for display, gifting, craft fairs, or a premium handmade shop listing.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview of the Set

This design includes every visible item in the image:

• A standing bunny with a cream head and legs
• Long floppy ears in a soft taupe shade
• A ruby winter coat-dress with fluffy white edging
• A rounded ruby hat with two white accent stripes
• A ruby bow at the neckline
• A small crossbody-style pouch with white edging
• Ruby shoes with straps and bows
• A tiny bear in a blue striped sweater and green hat
• A cream gift box tied with a tan bow
• A small red-and-white candy cane

The proportions matter greatly in this set. The bunny is the main focus and should stand much taller than the bear. The head is large and round, the body is hidden under the full coat-dress, the legs are slim, and the ears hang straight down beneath the hat brim. The bear is compact and chubby.

The overall look depends on tight stitches, firm stuffing, and clean finishing. The fabric should be dense enough that stuffing does not show through. The clothing should feel fitted at the shoulders, fuller at the skirt, and slightly structured rather than limp.

Materials

• Light worsted or DK cotton yarn in cream for the bunny head, muzzle area, and legs
• Light worsted or DK cotton yarn in taupe or mushroom for the bunny ears and hands
• Light worsted or DK cotton yarn in ruby red for hat, coat-dress, bow, pouch, and shoes
• Soft white eyelash yarn or fluffy novelty yarn for cuffs, hem, and collar trim
• Black safety eyes for the bunny
• Pink or light peach yarn for the bunny nose
• Tan yarn for the bear body
• Blue yarn and white yarn for the bear sweater stripes
• Green yarn for the bear hat
• Cream yarn for the gift box
• Tan yarn for the gift ribbon and bow
• Ruby red and white yarn for the candy cane
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Small amount of weighted pellets or extra stuffing for balance if desired
• Crochet hook suited to your yarn, usually 2.25 mm to 3.0 mm for a firm amigurumi fabric
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Small scissors

Finished Size

Using light worsted or DK yarn with a small hook, the bunny will be approximately 9 to 11 inches tall from the bottom of the shoes to the top of the hat. The bear will be approximately 4 to 5 inches tall. The gift box and candy cane are both small accent pieces.

The bunny should remain visually dominant. The bear should reach only about half the bunny’s body height from shoes to hat brim. The gift box should sit lower than the bunny’s knees, and the candy cane should be shorter than the gift box width.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase, 2 sc in one stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• sl st = slip stitch
• ch = chain
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• rnd = round

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Gauge and Construction Notes

Gauge is less important than consistency, but the stitches must be very firm. The head must be smooth and spherical. The hat should fit snugly over the head and press the ears gently downward. The coat-dress must cover the upper body and sit wide at the hem.

Stuff gradually and evenly. Do not overstuff the limbs. The legs should stay neat and straight. The head should be firm. The bear should be lightly but evenly stuffed to keep a soft rounded shape. The gift box should be stuffed enough to hold corners.

Unless otherwise noted, work in continuous rounds for amigurumi pieces. Mark the first stitch of each round. For symmetrical finishing, adjust by one stitch if needed before closing rounds and attaching parts.

Color Placement Summary

• Bunny head: cream
• Bunny ears: taupe
• Bunny arms: ruby sleeves with taupe hands and white fluffy cuffs
• Bunny legs: cream with ruby shoes
• Bunny coat-dress: ruby with white fluffy collar, cuffs, and hem
• Hat: ruby with two white stripe rounds and white decorative edging
• Bow: ruby
• Pouch: ruby with white border
• Bear: tan body, blue-and-white striped sweater, green hat
• Gift box: cream with tan tie
• Candy cane: alternating ruby and white

Bunny Head

The head is a smooth, nearly perfect sphere with a gentle lower face. The face is simple and sweet, with small black eyes set wide apart and a tiny stitched nose placed low. The head should look calm and balanced, not elongated.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: 1 sc, inc repeat around (18)
4. Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc repeat around (24)
5. Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc repeat around (30)
6. Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc repeat around (36)
7. Rnd 7: 5 sc, inc repeat around (42)
8. Rnd 8: 6 sc, inc repeat around (48)
9. Rnd 9: 7 sc, inc repeat around (54)
10. Rnd 10: 8 sc, inc repeat around (60)
11. Rnd 11-20: sc around (60)

Insert the eyes between rnds 13 and 14, with about 10 to 12 visible stitches between them, depending on your yarn thickness. The eyes should sit wide enough to create the gentle childlike look seen in the image. Keep them level.

1. Rnd 21: 8 sc, dec repeat around (54)
2. Rnd 22: 7 sc, dec repeat around (48)
3. Rnd 23: 6 sc, dec repeat around (42)

Begin stuffing firmly. Shape the cheeks gently as you stuff. Keep the lower face smooth and avoid a point under the chin.

1. Rnd 24: 5 sc, dec repeat around (36)
2. Rnd 25: 4 sc, dec repeat around (30)
3. Rnd 26: 3 sc, dec repeat around (24)
4. Rnd 27: 2 sc, dec repeat around (18)
5. Rnd 28: 1 sc, dec repeat around (12)
6. Rnd 29: dec around (6)

Fasten off and close. Leave a tail for shaping if needed.

Bunny Facial Features

Using pink or pale peach yarn, stitch a tiny inverted triangle nose centered between the eyes and slightly below them. Add a short straight line descending from the nose. Keep the mouth area very minimal. The image shows a delicate face, not heavy embroidery.

The bunny does not need visible blush, eyelashes, or extra sculpting. The charm comes from clean placement and restraint. Keep the features soft and balanced.

Bunny Ears Make 2

The ears are long, narrow, and softly rounded at the tips. They fall straight down from under the hat, reaching to about shoulder or upper arm level. They are not heavily stuffed. A very small amount of stuffing at the base is enough, or leave them unstuffed.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: 1 sc, inc repeat around (18)
4. Rnd 4-8: sc around (18)
5. Rnd 9: 1 sc, dec repeat around (12)
6. Rnd 10-24: sc around (12)

Flatten the open edge. Do not overstuff. Leave a tail for sewing. Before attaching, pinch the top slightly so the ear base curves naturally against the head. Sew each ear low enough that the hat can sit over the top attachment point.

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Bunny Arms Make 2

The sleeves are ruby and slightly tapered. The visible hand area is taupe, matching the ears. The white fluffy cuff sits at the sleeve edge and should look plush and soft.

1. With taupe, rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3-4: sc around (12)
4. Change to ruby
5. Rnd 5: BLO sc around (12)
6. Rnd 6-14: sc around (12)
7. Rnd 15: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec (10)
8. Rnd 16-17: sc around (10)

Add a little stuffing to the lower arm only. Flatten the top opening and sew closed. Leave a tail for attaching. The arms angle slightly outward and downward from the shoulders.

To make the fluffy cuffs, join white eyelash yarn in the front loop left from rnd 5 and work a round of sl st or very small sc evenly around. Keep the trim soft, not bulky. It should resemble a winter cuff rather than a ruffle.

Bunny Legs Make 2

The legs are slim cream tubes emerging from beneath the dress. The feet are covered by ruby shoes, so only a small cream section is visible between hem and shoe top. Keep the legs straight and evenly stuffed.

1. With cream, rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3-16: sc around (12)

Stuff lightly to medium. Leave long tails. The finished legs should be neat, narrow, and parallel. If desired, add a tiny bit of weight into the lower leg before final stuffing to help standing balance.

Bunny Shoes Make 2

The shoes are ruby red, rounded at the toes, and styled like little dress shoes with a strap opening and small bows. They should be cute and compact, not oversized boots. The opening exposes a cream top section matching the legs.

1. With ruby, ch 7
2. Rnd 1: starting in second ch from hook, 5 sc, 3 sc in last ch, working along opposite side 4 sc, inc in final st (14)
3. Rnd 2: inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc (20)
4. Rnd 3: sc around in BLO (20)
5. Rnd 4: 6 sc, 4 dec, 6 sc (16)
6. Rnd 5: 5 sc, 3 dec, 5 sc (13)

Fasten off if needed and fit onto the leg. You may either stitch the leg directly into the shoe opening or sew the shoe around the lower leg after stuffing. Leave the top slightly open to mimic the strap style.

For the strap, attach ruby yarn at one side of the opening, ch 4 to 5 across, and sew to the opposite side. Make a tiny bow from a short chain strip wrapped at the center, then sew onto the outer side of each shoe.

Bunny Body Core

The image shows most of the body hidden by the coat-dress, so the torso can be a simple support shape. Make a compact upper body that gives the dress and head a secure foundation. It should be narrower than the head and shorter than the skirt length.

1. With ruby or cream, rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: 1 sc, inc repeat around (18)
4. Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc repeat around (24)
5. Rnd 5-8: sc around (24)
6. Rnd 9: 2 sc, dec repeat around (18)
7. Rnd 10-12: sc around (18)

Stuff firmly. Leave a long tail for joining to the head or body assembly. This inner torso should remain hidden inside the coat-dress.

Ruby Coat-Dress

This is the most important clothing element. It reads as a winter coat and dress at the same time, with fitted shoulders, long sleeves already attached to the bunny arms, and a skirt that widens gently. The fluffy white hemline gives the strongest seasonal impression.

You may make the coat-dress as a separate garment and stitch it in place, or build it around the torso. The cleanest method for a display piece is to crochet it as a fitted shell and sew it neatly to the body.

Upper Bodice

1. With ruby, ch 25
2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across (24)
3. Row 2-4: ch 1, turn, sc across (24)

Wrap this strip around the upper torso to check fit. It should overlap slightly at the back or meet snugly depending on your chosen closure method. Join into a round or seam later.

Shoulder Shaping and Arm Openings

Create two arm openings by leaving spaces or by crocheting directly around the torso and joining the prepared arms afterward. The exact construction can vary, but the finished shoulder line should look smooth and slightly sloped, not square.

If working around the body, position the arm attachments high and slightly outward. The sleeves in the image angle away from the dress gently rather than hanging straight down.

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Skirt Section

1. Join ruby yarn at lower bodice edge
2. Rnd 1: inc in every 3rd stitch around to begin flare
3. Rnd 2-4: sc around
4. Rnd 5: inc in every 4th stitch around
5. Rnd 6-9: sc around
6. Rnd 10: inc in every 5th stitch around
7. Rnd 11-14: sc around

The skirt should bell outward modestly, not become extremely full. Its finished length should reach just above the bunny’s knees, allowing the cream legs and ruby shoes to remain visible. Keep checking proportions as you work.

The front of the skirt in the image has subtle texture and visual depth. You can achieve this with even tension, slightly taller stitches in selected rounds, or by working one or two rounds in BLO to create a tailored coat effect. Keep it subtle.

Front Opening Illusion

The dress appears to have a front coat opening with the pouch resting over it. To mimic this look, embroider or seam a faint center front line from neckline toward the lower skirt. Do not make a deep open slit. The garment should remain structured and tidy.

Fluffy Hem Trim

Attach white eyelash yarn at the lower skirt edge and work one even round of sl st or sc. The trim should look soft and plush, framing the skirt hem in a snowy band. Keep the fluff concentrated along the edge only.

Fluffy Collar

At the neckline, attach white fluffy yarn and work a short rounded collar. This collar should sit around the neck and upper chest without covering the bow completely. It should be visible above the bodice and beneath the hat and face.

Keep the collar compact. In the image, it frames the neck rather than spreading across the shoulders like a cape. A single neat round is usually enough.

Ruby Bow

The bow sits at the front neckline and is a central detail. It is medium sized, symmetrical, and slightly raised. It should cover part of the upper bodice and sit directly below the chin area.

1. With ruby, ch 11
2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across (10)
3. Row 2-5: ch 1, turn, sc across (10)

Fasten off, leaving a tail. Wrap the center with ruby yarn several times to cinch into a bow shape. Stitch securely at the center front of the neckline. Shape the loops with your fingers before final sewing so they remain rounded.

Ruby Pouch

The pouch is small, rounded, and hangs at the bunny’s left side. It has a white border around the flap or edge and a thin strap crossing the front diagonally. The pouch is decorative but should be fully formed, not flat and vague.

1. With ruby, ch 7
2. Rnd 1: starting in second ch, 5 sc, 3 sc in last ch, opposite side 4 sc, inc (14)
3. Rnd 2: sc around (14)
4. Rnd 3: BLO sc around (14)
5. Rnd 4-5: sc around (14)

Flatten and stitch the upper edge partly closed, leaving a flap suggestion. Add white edging with one neat round of sl st or surface edging around the visible flap edge. Make a narrow strap by chaining enough length to cross from shoulder to pouch position.

Sew the strap diagonally across the chest and attach the pouch at the hip. It should sit slightly forward, not directly at the side seam.

Ruby Winter Hat

The hat is a rounded cloche shape that fits low on the head. It covers the top of the head, sits over the ear attachments, and has a gently flared brim. Two narrow white stripe rounds circle the hat, and the brim edge has a white decorative finish.

1. With ruby, rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: 1 sc, inc repeat around (18)
4. Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc repeat around (24)
5. Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc repeat around (30)
6. Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc repeat around (36)
7. Rnd 7: 5 sc, inc repeat around (42)
8. Rnd 8: 6 sc, inc repeat around (48)
9. Rnd 9: 7 sc, inc repeat around (54)
10. Rnd 10-14: sc around (54)

Try the hat on the head. It should sit snugly. Continue if needed until it reaches the proper depth.

1. Rnd 15: change to white, sc around (54)
2. Rnd 16: change to ruby, sc around (54)
3. Rnd 17: change to white, sc around (54)
4. Rnd 18: change to ruby, 8 sc, inc repeat around (60)
5. Rnd 19-20: sc around (60)

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For the brim edge, work a final white round of decorative sl st, small picot-like edging, or tiny shell effect if desired. Keep it delicate. The hat should remain rounded and elegant, never floppy.

Tiny Bear

The bear is a charming companion figure with a tan head and limbs, a compact body, a striped blue sweater effect across the torso, and a small green cap. The face is simple and friendly, with dark eyes and a pale muzzle area.

Bear Head

1. With tan, rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: 1 sc, inc repeat around (18)
4. Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc repeat around (24)
5. Rnd 5-8: sc around (24)
6. Insert eyes between rnds 6 and 7
7. Rnd 9: 2 sc, dec repeat around (18)
8. Rnd 10: 1 sc, dec repeat around (12)
9. Stuff firmly
10. Rnd 11: dec around (6)

Close and fasten off.

Bear Muzzle

1. With cream or very light tan, rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc around (12)

Lightly stuff and sew centered on the lower head. Embroider a small dark nose and short mouth line.

Bear Ears Make 2

1. With tan, rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc around (12)

Flatten slightly and sew onto the top sides of the head.

Bear Body

The sweater stripes are part of the body color changes. Keep the torso short and rounded.

1. With tan, rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3: 1 sc, inc repeat around (18)
4. Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc repeat around (24)
5. Rnd 5: with blue, sc around (24)
6. Rnd 6: with white, sc around (24)
7. Rnd 7: with blue, sc around (24)
8. Rnd 8: with white, sc around (24)
9. Rnd 9: with blue, sc around (24)
10. Rnd 10: with tan, 2 sc, dec repeat around (18)
11. Rnd 11: sc around (18)
12. Rnd 12: 1 sc, dec repeat around (12)

Stuff and leave a tail for attaching the head.

Bear Arms Make 2

1. With tan, rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. Rnd 2-3: sc around (6)
3. Change to blue
4. Rnd 4-6: sc around (6)

Stuff lightly and sew at the sides of the sweater.

Bear Legs Make 2

1. With tan, rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (12)
3. Rnd 3-5: sc around (12)

Stuff lightly. Sew under the body so the bear stands or sits steadily with a forward-facing posture.

Bear Hat

The small green hat is rounded with a tiny tip. It sits centered on the head.

1. With green, rnd 1: 4 sc in MR (4)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (8)
3. Rnd 3: 1 sc, inc repeat around (12)
4. Rnd 4-6: sc around (12)

Fasten off and sew onto the head. Add a tiny nub or short top point if you want to match the image more closely.

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Gift Box

The gift box is soft cream with a tan ribbon crossing vertically and horizontally, finished with a tied bow on top. It is a simple cube with softened corners. This piece should look neat and gift-like even though it is tiny.

Gift Box Base

1. With cream, ch 6
2. Row 1: sc in second ch and across (5)
3. Row 2-6: ch 1, turn, sc across (5)

This creates one square panel. Make 6 identical panels or use a continuous cube construction if preferred. Sew the panels into a cube, leaving one seam partly open for stuffing. Stuff firmly enough to hold shape, then close.

Gift Ribbon

Using tan yarn, embroider or wrap one vertical and one horizontal band around the box. Secure invisibly on the bottom. For the top bow, make two small loops and two short tails, then stitch in place. The bow should be soft and slightly oversized.

Candy Cane

The candy cane is short, curved, and softly stuffed. The stripes are rounded rather than sharply spiraled, so keep the color changes clean but not rigid. It should look playful and handmade.

1. With white, rnd 1: 4 sc in MR (4)
2. Rnd 2: inc around (8)
3. Rnd 3-4: sc around (8)
4. Change to ruby for 2 rnds
5. Change to white for 2 rnds
6. Continue alternating every 2 rnds until the tube is about 3.5 to 4 inches long

Stuff lightly as you go. Insert a short flexible wire only if you want a more controlled curve, but soft stuffing alone is usually enough. Bend the top third into a candy cane hook and stitch the bend lightly to hold the shape.

Main Assembly Order

1. Sew the bunny ears to the head
2. Attach the bunny head to the torso core
3. Sew the legs evenly to the lower torso
4. Fit and secure the shoes
5. Attach the arms at shoulder level
6. Dress the bunny in the ruby coat-dress
7. Add the fluffy hem, collar, and cuffs
8. Sew the bow at the neckline
9. Attach the pouch and strap
10. Place and secure the hat over the head and ear base area
11. Assemble the bear completely
12. Finish the gift box and candy cane

Positioning Details for Accuracy

Head to body: The bunny head should appear large compared with the torso. Do not make the body too long or thick under the dress.

Ears: They should emerge from beneath the hat and hang almost straight down, one on each side of the face.

Arms: The arms point slightly downward and outward. The fluffy cuffs must be visible at the sleeve ends.

Skirt length: The hem sits above the knees, revealing the lower legs and full shoes.

Pouch placement: The pouch rests on the bunny’s left side from the viewer’s perspective and the strap crosses the front diagonally.

Bow placement: Center it high on the chest, directly under the chin and above the pouch line.

Hat depth: The brim sits low and frames the face. It should not sit high like a beanie.

Finishing Tips for a Polished Display Piece

• Use invisible decreases for all visible shaping
• Weave in tails securely inside each piece
• Shape the head and hat with your hands before final stitching
• Trim fluffy yarn carefully if it hides important details
• Steam lightly from a distance only if your fiber allows it
• Keep all accessories in scale with the bunny
• Check symmetry from the front before locking any seam

The beauty of this set comes from balance. None of the details are oversized except the slightly full skirt and the rounded hat. Keep the lines tidy and gentle. The finished bunny should look calm, elegant, and warm, with the bear and tiny props enhancing the scene.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

After all pieces are attached, stand the bunny upright and adjust the head so the face looks straight forward. Check the ears, hat brim, bow, pouch, and shoes from the front. Add the stitched nose last if needed for perfect centering.

For the bear, keep the muzzle centered and the tiny hat straight. Place the gift box and candy cane near the bunny’s feet for display, matching the cozy arrangement shown in the image.

Care Notes

• Store away from direct sunlight to protect color depth
• Keep fluffy trim brushed lightly with clean fingers
• Avoid rough pulling on the pouch strap, bow, or candy cane curve
• Display on a dry shelf or in a clean cabinet for best longevity

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are the bunny eyes even and centered?
• Do the ears fall neatly below the hat?
• Is the bow centered at the neckline?
• Does the skirt flare gently and end above the knees?
• Are the fluffy cuff, collar, and hem trims visible but not bulky?
• Is the pouch positioned on the correct side?
• Do the shoes match in height and angle?
• Is the bear clearly smaller than the bunny?
• Do the gift box and candy cane feel complete and polished?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a lightly damp cloth and mild soap only when needed. Do not soak the piece unless your yarn and stuffing are both safe for full washing. Press gently with a towel and reshape while drying.

If the fluffy trim becomes flattened, lift it softly with a clean dry toothbrush or your fingertips. Store the set in a breathable container, not sealed plastic, and keep heavy objects off the hat brim, bow, and bear hat.