Pearl Garden Bunny – Crochet

Pearl Garden Bunny – Crochet

This elegant amigurumi bunny set is designed to look like a boutique crochet doll with a romantic garden style. With her wide-brim hat, pearl-trim dress, tiny purse, tea set, bouquet, hedgehog friend, and picnic basket, this project has the feel of a handmade collectible, heirloom gift, and premium nursery decor piece.

The finished set is ideal for makers who love detailed crochet dolls, charming animal companions, and beautifully styled accessories. It fits popular searches such as crochet bunny doll, amigurumi rabbit plush, handmade stuffed animal gift, cottagecore decor, and artisan toy pattern while still feeling warm, natural, and enjoyable to make.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Project Overview

This pattern creates the full scene shown in the image. The main piece is a standing bunny doll with long soft ears, a rounded head, a slim body, a fitted bodice, a wide lacy skirt, small shoes, a broad white sunhat, and a tiny shoulder purse.

The supporting pieces are also included so the finished set matches the image as closely as possible. You will also make a rose bouquet, a miniature teapot, a teacup with saucer, a seated hedgehog reading a book, the hedgehog’s hat, and a picnic basket with a hinged-look lid.

The design style is delicate and polished. Most pieces are worked in fine stitches with firm tension so they hold their shape well. The dress and skirt use decorative lace, but the rabbit, hat, purse, basket, tea set, and hedgehog use tighter fabric for structure.

Materials

  • Lightweight cotton yarn or cotton-blend yarn in ivory, soft cream, pearl white, blush pink, rose pink, dusty brown, medium brown, dark brown, sky blue, tan, and a small amount of black
  • Crochet hook sizes 2.0 mm and 2.25 mm
  • Black safety eyes or embroidered eyes, about 8 mm
  • Fiberfill stuffing
  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers
  • Sewing pins
  • Thin floral wire or craft wire for purse strap and bouquet stems if desired
  • Small pearl beads for dress, hat, shoes, and purse detailing
  • Soft pink embroidery thread or yarn for nose and blush accents
  • Brown and black embroidery thread for eyebrows and small facial accents
  • Craft glue optional for securing tiny decorative pearls only if you do not want to sew them

Yarn Notes

The image shows a refined, neat texture, so mercerized cotton or smooth cotton-blend yarn is the best match. Avoid fuzzy yarn for the bunny and accessories because the stitches in the picture are clearly defined. Use consistent tension throughout the main doll to keep the finish polished.

The skirt has soft drape but still holds a bell shape. That balance works well with cotton yarn at a tight gauge. If your fabric becomes too stiff, go up one hook size only for the lace portion of the skirt. Keep the body pieces firm so the bunny stands well.

Abbreviations

  • MR = magic ring
  • ch = chain
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet
  • inc = 2 sc in same stitch
  • dec = invisible decrease
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • tr = treble crochet
  • st = stitch
  • sp = space
  • BLO = back loop only
  • FLO = front loop only
  • rep = repeat

Finished Size

  • Main bunny: about 10 to 11 inches tall without hat
  • Hat adds extra height and width, with a dramatic brim
  • Hedgehog: about 3 inches tall seated
  • Basket: about 3.5 inches wide
  • Teapot: about 1.75 inches wide including spout and handle
  • Teacup and saucer: miniature scale to fit the scene

Gauge and Tension

Gauge is less important than maintaining proportion. The bunny’s head should be noticeably larger than the torso, the ears should hang nearly to the waist, and the skirt should spread into a soft full shape. The stitches should look compact and even, with very little stuffing showing through.

If your bunny looks too tall and narrow, add one extra increase round at the widest part of the head and one increase round to the upper skirt. If the bunny looks too broad, remove one increase round from the head or work the body with slightly tighter tension.

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Main Bunny Construction Order

  1. Legs and shoes
  2. Body and neck
  3. Head
  4. Arms
  5. Ears
  6. Dress bodice and lace skirt
  7. Hat
  8. Purse
  9. Bouquet
  10. Tea set
  11. Hedgehog and book
  12. Basket
  13. Assembly and detailing

Legs and Shoes

The bunny’s legs are slim, straight, and elegant. The feet are only slightly wider than the legs and are covered by delicate white shoes with pearl trim. Make both legs first and keep them identical in length so the doll stands evenly.

Shoe Base for Leg 1

  1. With ivory or pearl white, ch 7.
  2. Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4, 3 sc in last ch. Working on opposite side, sc in next 4, 2 sc in last st. Join or work continuously. 14 sts.
  3. Round 2: Inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc 2 times. 20 sts.
  4. Round 3: Sc around in BLO. 20 sts.
  5. Round 4: Sc 6, dec 4 times, sc 6. 16 sts.
  6. Round 5: Sc 5, dec 3 times, sc 5. 13 sts.

Stuff the front of the shoe lightly. The shoe in the image is rounded, not pointed. Keep the toe soft and smooth. Add a tiny cardboard sole insert if you want a very stable standing base, but keep the insert smaller than the actual sole edge.

Leg Tube

  1. Round 6: Working in ivory body color, sc around. 13 sts.
  2. Round 7: Sc around.
  3. Round 8: Sc around.
  4. Round 9: Dec once, sc 11. 12 sts.
  5. Rounds 10 to 24: Sc around for 15 rounds. 12 sts.

Stuff the leg firmly but do not overfill the ankle. The lower leg should remain straight and smooth. Before finishing the leg, check that the proportion matches the image: the legs are long enough to show clearly below the skirt, but still shorter than the full head height.

Leg 2

Repeat the same steps for the second leg. Do not fasten off the second leg. After both are complete, align the toes forward. The feet should angle very slightly outward for a natural stance, but the knees and upper legs should stay straight.

Join the Legs

  1. Ch 3 from Leg 2 and join to Leg 1.
  2. Round 25: Sc around Leg 1, sc across one side of joining chain, sc around Leg 2, sc across other side of joining chain. 30 sts, or adjusted count based on your join method.
  3. Round 26: Sc around.

The hips of this bunny are narrow, because the fullness comes from the dress rather than the body. Keep the body cylinder clean and centered so the skirt sits neatly later.

Body and Neck

Torso

  1. Round 27: Sc around.
  2. Round 28: Sc around.
  3. Round 29: Dec, sc 13, dec, sc 13. 28 sts.
  4. Round 30: Sc around.
  5. Round 31: Dec, sc 12, dec, sc 12. 26 sts.
  6. Round 32: Sc around.
  7. Round 33: Dec, sc 11, dec, sc 11. 24 sts.
  8. Rounds 34 to 36: Sc around.

Stuff the body gradually. The torso in the image is gently tapered and elegant, not round or chubby. The waist sits high, because the dress bodice is short and the skirt begins just below the chest line. Keep the stomach area slim.

Chest and Neck

  1. Round 37: Sc 10, dec, sc 10, dec. 22 sts.
  2. Round 38: Sc around.
  3. Round 39: Dec, sc 9, dec, sc 9. 20 sts.
  4. Round 40: Sc around.
  5. Round 41: Dec 4 times, sc 12. 16 sts.
  6. Rounds 42 to 44: Sc around. 16 sts.

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The neck should be firm. Add extra stuffing or even a small wrapped support stick if needed. Because the head is large and the hat is wide, the neck must hold the head upright without wobbling.

Head

The head is round and smooth, with a soft cheeky face. The muzzle is subtle rather than protruding. The eyes sit wide apart, the nose is small and pink, and the expression is calm and gentle.

  1. Round 1: With ivory, 6 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
  3. Round 3: Sc, inc rep around. 18 sts.
  4. Round 4: Sc 2, inc rep around. 24 sts.
  5. Round 5: Sc 3, inc rep around. 30 sts.
  6. Round 6: Sc 4, inc rep around. 36 sts.
  7. Round 7: Sc 5, inc rep around. 42 sts.
  8. Round 8: Sc 6, inc rep around. 48 sts.
  9. Rounds 9 to 16: Sc around.

Insert the eyes between Rounds 11 and 12 with about 8 stitches between them, or embroider them later if you prefer. The face in the image has a youthful look, so keep the eyes slightly low on the head rather than too high.

  1. Round 17: Sc 6, dec rep around. 42 sts.
  2. Round 18: Sc 5, dec rep around. 36 sts.
  3. Round 19: Sc 4, dec rep around. 30 sts.
  4. Round 20: Sc 3, dec rep around. 24 sts.

Stuff the head firmly and evenly. Shape the cheeks with your fingers as you fill. The lower face should stay slightly flatter than the back of the head so the face looks forward nicely under the hat brim.

  1. Round 21: Sc 2, dec rep around. 18 sts.
  2. Round 22: Sc, dec rep around. 12 sts.
  3. Round 23: Dec around. 6 sts.

Fasten off and close. Sew the head securely to the neck. Reinforce the join with a second pass of stitching because the finished doll carries a large hat and long ears.

Muzzle Shaping and Face Embroidery

The nose is a tiny soft pink triangle centered slightly below eye level. From the bottom point of the triangle, embroider a short vertical line down and then a tiny split smile. Keep it minimal. The mouth in the image is sweet and understated, not exaggerated.

Use brown or dark taupe thread to add two simple eyebrow curves above the eyes. Place them gently angled for a kind expression. Add blush on both cheeks with pink thread, soft crayon, or fabric-safe blush. Keep the blush round and light, placed low under the eyes.

Arms

The arms are slim tubes with a subtle hand end. They hang naturally downward and slightly outward. One arm supports the purse strap, so be sure the arm joints are firm enough to hold shape once the purse is attached.

  1. Round 1: With ivory, 6 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
  3. Rounds 3 to 5: Sc around.
  4. Round 6: Dec twice, sc 8. 10 sts.
  5. Rounds 7 to 18: Sc around.

Stuff only the lower half firmly and the upper half lightly. Flatten the opening and sew each arm to the sides of the torso just below the shoulder line. Angle the arms slightly forward so the finished posture matches the image.

Ears

The ears are long, soft, and gently flattened. They fall straight downward from beneath the hat and reach almost to the waist. They are not wired. Their softness is important because the image shows relaxed hanging ears rather than upright ones.

  1. Round 1: With ivory, 6 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
  3. Round 3: Sc, inc rep around. 18 sts.
  4. Rounds 4 to 8: Sc around.
  5. Round 9: Dec, sc 7, dec, sc 7. 16 sts.
  6. Rounds 10 to 18: Sc around.
  7. Round 19: Dec, sc 6, dec, sc 6. 14 sts.
  8. Rounds 20 to 28: Sc around.

Do not stuff the ears. Flatten them and sew them to the head slightly behind the face line so they frame the cheeks. The ears should emerge under the hat and drape smoothly. One ear can sit a touch more forward than the other for a natural look.

Dress Bodice

The dress is fitted at the top with delicate shoulder detail, a neat waist, and pearl accents. The bodice is clean and elegant rather than bulky. It should sit close to the body and transition smoothly into the full lace skirt.

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Bodice Base

You may either crochet the bodice directly onto the torso or make it separately and sew it in place. Directly crocheting onto the torso creates the smoothest fitted look for this design.

  1. Join ivory yarn around the upper torso at the chest line.
  2. Round 1: Sc evenly around. Use 24 sts or a count that sits flat around the torso.
  3. Round 2: Sc around in BLO.
  4. Round 3: Sc around.
  5. Round 4: Hdc around for slight texture.
  6. Round 5: Sc around.

For the neckline frill, work a delicate edge at the upper bodice. This part in the image looks like tiny petal or shell shaping around the chest and shoulders.

  1. Neckline trim: In FLO of the upper round, work sl st, ch 2, 2 dc in next st, sl st in next, rep around to create small shells.

Add pearl beads across the waistline and on selected points of the neckline trim. Do not overdecorate. The image shows a refined pearl scatter, not dense beading.

Lace Skirt

The skirt is full, airy, and strongly shaped by open lace motifs. It falls in a bell silhouette and ends in scalloped shell edges. The lace is one of the most important visual features in the image, so work carefully and keep the repeats even.

Skirt Foundation

  1. Join yarn at waistline below bodice.
  2. Round 1: Inc evenly around to about 36 sts.
  3. Round 2: Sc around.
  4. Round 3: Increase evenly to 48 sts.

If your body circumference is slightly different, adjust the stitch count so it is divisible for your lace repeat. The skirt should begin to spread gently from the waist without puffing too abruptly.

Lace Section

  1. Round 4: Ch 3, skip 1, dc in next, ch 1 rep around.
  2. Round 5: Work shells into ch-1 spaces. Shell suggestion: 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc.
  3. Round 6: Sl st into next shell, ch 4, sc in next shell, ch 4 rep around.
  4. Round 7: Into each ch-4 sp work 5 dc shell.
  5. Round 8: Ch 5 arches between shell centers.
  6. Round 9: Work fan groups into arches.
  7. Round 10: Repeat a balanced sequence of arches and fans to deepen the lace.

You may customize the exact lace repeat, but the finished look should resemble layered open fans with floral softness. The skirt in the image is not a plain gathered tube. It has visible, repeated ornamental motifs and a generous scalloped hem.

Scalloped Hem

  1. Final round: In each large arch, work 7 dc, sl st in next joining point, rep around.

Block the skirt lightly so the shells open. Do not overstretch. The hem should ripple softly, and the lace holes should remain neat. Sew a few pearl beads near the upper skirt and waist if desired to mirror the image.

Shoes

The shoes are already formed from the lower foot section, but now they need finishing so they resemble the dainty white footwear in the image. Each shoe has a neat upper edge and tiny pearl decoration near the opening.

  • Work a surface round of sl st around the shoe opening if you want a crisp edge.
  • Sew 2 to 4 tiny pearl beads around the outer top edge of each shoe.
  • Shape the toe softly with your fingers so it remains rounded and elegant.

Wide-Brim Hat

The hat is oversized, graceful, and dramatic. It has a rounded crown, a very wide downward-curving brim, a pearl-trim band, and floral trim gathered on one side. This hat is essential to the full look, so do not make it too small.

Crown Top

  1. Round 1: With pearl white, 6 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
  3. Round 3: Sc, inc rep around. 18 sts.
  4. Round 4: Sc 2, inc rep around. 24 sts.
  5. Round 5: Sc 3, inc rep around. 30 sts.
  6. Round 6: Sc 4, inc rep around. 36 sts.
  7. Round 7: Sc 5, inc rep around. 42 sts.
  8. Round 8: Sc 6, inc rep around. 48 sts.

Crown Sides

  1. Rounds 9 to 16: Sc around.

Try the hat on the bunny. It should sit low enough to shade the face slightly, but still allow the eyes and brows to show clearly. If needed, add or remove one plain round to adjust the crown depth.

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Brim

  1. Round 17: In BLO, sc around.
  2. Round 18: Sc 6, inc rep around. 54 sts.
  3. Round 19: Sc around.
  4. Round 20: Sc 7, inc rep around. 60 sts.
  5. Round 21: Sc around.
  6. Round 22: Sc 8, inc rep around. 66 sts.
  7. Round 23: Sc around.
  8. Round 24: Sc 9, inc rep around. 72 sts.
  9. Round 25: Sc around.
  10. Round 26: Hdc around loosely or sc with slightly relaxed tension.

The brim should wave downward in a soft, elegant way. If it is too flat, add one more increase round. If it is too floppy, work a final round with tighter tension or add fine millinery wire hidden in the edge. Keep the brim smooth and luxurious rather than stiff.

Hat Trim

  • Sew a band of small pearl beads around the base of the crown.
  • Create a floral trim cluster from tiny crocheted petals, small loops, or rolled rose motifs.
  • Attach the cluster to one side of the hat, with a light lace spray effect extending outward.

The image shows the embellishment concentrated on one side rather than centered. Place it above the bunny’s right side from the viewer’s perspective so the composition matches the picture.

Purse

The purse is tiny, rounded rectangular, and finished with a flap and pearl-bead strap. It hangs from one arm and rests near the skirt. Keep it neat and compact.

Purse Body

  1. Ch 9 with pearl white.
  2. Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch, sc 6 on opposite side, 2 sc in last. 18 sts.
  3. Rounds 2 to 5: Sc around.

Flatten the shape lightly. For the flap, join yarn at the back upper edge and work back and forth.

  1. Row 1: Sc across 8 sts, ch 1 turn.
  2. Row 2: Dec, sc 4, dec. 6 sts.
  3. Row 3: Sc across.
  4. Row 4: Dec, sc 2, dec. 4 sts.
  5. Row 5: Sc across.

Finish the flap with a small rounded edge using sl st. Add one pearl bead centered on the flap as a clasp accent. For the strap, string tiny beads onto sewing thread or make a fine ch cord and stitch pearl beads along it. Attach securely to both sides.

Rose Bouquet

The bouquet is small and sits beside the bunny. It consists of several tightly rolled roses in different pink shades with short green stems and leaves. The bundle should be compact and round.

Mini Roses

Make 7 to 9 roses in blush pink, medium pink, and dusty rose.

  1. Ch 16.
  2. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch, work 2 sc in each chain or alternate sc and hdc increases for a curved strip.
  3. Roll the strip from one end to create a rose spiral.
  4. Sew the base securely.

Make tiny leaves by chaining 5, then working sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st back along the chain. Attach 1 or 2 leaves to selected flowers. Stitch the finished roses together into a dome bouquet and wrap the stems with green yarn.

Teapot

The teapot is miniature and rounded, with a soft beige lid and accents, cream body, small spout, and curved handle. It is one of the smallest details in the scene, so neat proportions matter more than complex stitch work.

Pot Body

  1. Round 1: With cream, 6 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
  3. Round 3: Sc, inc rep around. 18 sts.
  4. Round 4: Sc 2, inc rep around. 24 sts.
  5. Rounds 5 to 8: Sc around.
  6. Round 9: Sc 2, dec rep around. 18 sts.
  7. Round 10: Sc around.

Stuff lightly. Close the bottom or top depending on your preferred construction method. The pot should look plump but not oversized.

Lid

  1. With beige, 6 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
  3. Round 3: Sc around.
  4. Add a tiny knob using 3 or 4 stitches in a small ring.

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Spout and Handle

  • Spout: Ch 5, work back with sc, then sew into a narrow cone and attach to front side.
  • Handle: Ch 8, sl st back or work a thin tube, then curve and sew to opposite side.

Teacup and Saucer

The cup is very small and low, with a matching saucer underneath. Use cream for the cup and beige for the saucer rim if you want to match the warm accent tones in the image.

Teacup

  1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
  3. Round 3: In BLO, sc around.
  4. Round 4: Sc around.

Add a tiny handle with ch 4 and attach to side.

Saucer

  1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
  3. Round 3: Sc, inc rep around. 18 sts.
  4. Round 4: Sl st around loosely to flatten the edge.

Hedgehog Friend

The hedgehog is seated beside the bunny and wears a blue shirt and a little straw-style hat with a blue band. Its body is round, its face is beige, and its back is textured dark brown. It holds a small open book.

Head and Body

You may work the hedgehog as one piece from the top down.

  1. Round 1: With beige, 6 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
  3. Round 3: Sc, inc rep around. 18 sts.
  4. Round 4: Sc 2, inc rep around. 24 sts.
  5. Rounds 5 to 7: Sc around.

Place small black eyes and a tiny brown or black nose. The muzzle should project slightly through stuffing, but stay cute and compact.

  1. Round 8: Switch partly to dark brown for back section and keep beige on face section.
  2. Rounds 8 to 12: Sc around.
  3. Round 13: Begin decreases evenly to close lower body.

Stuff firmly before closing. The hedgehog should sit upright with a rounded belly. The back can be textured with loop stitch, bobble stitch, or small surface knots to suggest spines. Keep them short because the image shows tidy crochet texture, not wild spikes.

Arms and Feet

  • Arms: Start with 5 sc in MR, work 4 to 5 rounds, lightly stuff, and sew to front.
  • Feet: Make two tiny ovals or rounded stubs in beige and attach to lower body.

Blue Shirt

For the shirt, crochet a simple body wrap in sky blue and stitch it around the torso, or work directly onto the body with surface crochet rows. The shirt should cover the chest and belly while leaving the face, feet, and hands visible.

Book

The book is tiny, open, and soft brown. Make two flat rectangles and join them at the spine.

  1. Ch 7.
  2. Rows 1 to 4: Sc across, ch 1 turn.
  3. Make 2 panels.
  4. Sew or slip stitch them together at one short edge to form an open book.

Place the book between the hedgehog’s hands and tack it in place with a few stitches.

Hedgehog Hat

The hat is a tiny straw-style summer hat with a blue band, matching the garden picnic theme. It sits on top of the hedgehog’s head and is much simpler than the bunny’s hat.

  1. With tan, 6 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
  3. Round 3: Sc around.
  4. Round 4: In BLO, sc around.
  5. Round 5: Increase lightly around to form a small brim.

Add a thin blue yarn band around the crown and sew the hat at a slight angle.

Picnic Basket

The basket is rectangular with rounded edges, a textured body, a lid, and an arched handle. It sits to the side of the scene and helps balance the composition. Work it firmly so it keeps its shape.

Basket Base

  1. With medium brown, ch 13.
  2. Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 10, 3 sc in last ch, sc 10 opposite side, 2 sc in last. 26 sts.
  3. Round 2: Inc at corners and ends as needed to keep an oval rectangle shape.
  4. Rounds 3 to 8: Sc around in firm tension to build walls.

You may insert plastic canvas into the base and sides if you want a very crisp display basket. The image shows a well-shaped piece, not a floppy basket.

Lid

  1. Work another oval rectangle matching the upper opening.
  2. Add 2 to 3 rounds of sc around only part of the piece so the lid becomes slightly domed.
  3. Sew the lid to the back edge of the basket so it opens visually like the image.

Handle

  • Ch a long strip or make a narrow tube.
  • Insert wire if you want the arch to stay upright.
  • Sew the handle securely to both basket sides.

Add light beige trim or inner cloth detail if desired, but keep the outside primarily warm brown as shown.

Pearl Placement Guide

The pearls are small but important. They appear on the hat band, near the floral hat trim, around the waistline, on parts of the dress, on the shoes, and along the purse strap. Scatter them carefully instead of placing them in dense rows everywhere.

  • Hat band: small evenly spaced pearls
  • Hat trim cluster: a few extra pearls grouped with floral elements
  • Waistline: a neat row or spaced pearls around the belt area
  • Upper skirt: occasional pearls near the top lace motifs
  • Shoes: 2 to 4 pearls per shoe
  • Purse strap: bead-like pearl sequence

Styling and Proportion Check

Before sewing everything permanently, place all parts together and compare the scene balance. The bunny should remain the visual center. The hat must feel oversized. The skirt should be wide enough to frame the legs. The purse should sit just above knee level. The hedgehog should be clearly smaller and companion-sized.

The bouquet, tea set, and basket should look like separate accents rather than competing focal points. Keep the bouquet compact. Keep the tea set tiny. Keep the basket slightly behind or to the side, just as it appears in the image.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

  1. Sew the head to the neck securely.
  2. Attach ears beneath the future hat line so they fall along both sides of the face.
  3. Sew arms slightly forward.
  4. Dress the bunny with the bodice and skirt if worked separately.
  5. Place the hat low over the forehead and tack it invisibly in a few spots.
  6. Attach the purse strap over one arm and across the side.
  7. Embroider the pink nose, tiny mouth, and soft brown brows.
  8. Add blush last so the face stays balanced.

Care Notes

  • Display pieces are best kept away from direct sunlight for long periods.
  • Do not machine wash if pearl beads, wire, or cardboard inserts are used.
  • Handle the hat brim gently to keep its curve smooth.
  • Store tiny accessories in a small box when not on display.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Head centered and stable
  • Ears even in length and softly draped
  • Dress bodice fitted and smooth
  • Skirt blocked and scallops opened
  • Hat brim wide and elegant
  • Pearls placed lightly, not too densely
  • Purse hanging at the correct side
  • Tea set, bouquet, hedgehog, and basket all scaled neatly

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Dust the set with a soft dry brush or low-suction hand vacuum through a mesh screen. Spot clean only with a lightly damp cloth and mild soap on plain yarn areas. Avoid soaking the hat, purse, or basket if they contain structure support. Dry flat and reshape immediately.

If the piece will be stored, wrap the bunny and accessories in acid-free tissue and place them in a breathable container. Keep away from moisture, heavy compression, and rough handling. If needed, refresh the hat brim and lace skirt with gentle steam from a distance, never direct heat.

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