Crochet Tutorial: Forget-Me-Not Bunny – Free Crochet Pattern

This sweet heirloom-style amigurumi bunny set blends a classic handmade doll look with soft cottage details, making it perfect for collectors, nursery decor, baby shower gifting, and anyone searching for a premium crochet bunny doll pattern with a polished boutique finish.

The design includes the dressed bunny, the tiny companion, the flower-trimmed bonnet and cape, lace-look skirt panels, purse, floral wreath, and folded handkerchief. It is ideal for readers who love amigurumi doll tutorials, handmade stuffed animals, and charming seasonal gift ideas.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US English and is designed to reproduce the full crochet set shown in the image as closely as possible. The main doll is a standing bunny with a large round head, slim neck, soft cone-shaped body, short tapered arms, narrow legs, lace-trimmed skirt, cape collar, bonnet, and crossed ballet-style shoes.

The smaller companion is worked in the same soft neutral yarn with a tiny dress, bonnet, and miniature satchel. The overall style depends on firm stuffing, careful shaping, and even stitch tension. Use a hook slightly smaller than usual for amigurumi so the fabric looks compact and smooth.

Materials

• Main yarn color A: light cream or oatmeal cotton for bunny, lamb, purse base, and handkerchief edging.
• Accent color B: dusty sky blue for forget-me-not flowers, purse trim, and small bag details.
• Accent color C: soft leaf green for flower centers, stems, and decorative touches.
• Accent color D: pale blush pink for nose embroidery and tiny side flower accents.
• Lace-look overlay yarn: same cream yarn, or a slightly finer cotton for delicate skirt panels.
• Hook sizes: 2.25 mm for body pieces, 2.0 mm for small accessories, 1.75 mm optional for fine trim.
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill.
• Safety eyes: 8 mm for the main bunny, 5 mm for the companion.
• Tapestry needle for sewing and embroidery.
• Stitch markers and pins.
• Optional: lightweight cardboard or plastic insert for the purse base, floral wire wrapped in yarn for extra bonnet shaping, fabric stiffener for the wreath and handkerchief.

Finished Size

• Main bunny: about 24 to 27 cm tall from feet to bonnet top.
• Mini companion: about 11 to 13 cm tall.
• Purse: about 6 cm wide.
• Flower wreath: about 5.5 cm outer diameter.
• Handkerchief: about 4 cm square folded.

Gauge and Tension

Gauge is less important than shape, but tension is very important. Work tightly enough that stuffing does not show through. For the body fabric, 6 rounds of 12 single crochet in the round should measure about 3 cm across when lightly flattened.

The image shows a dense but not harsh stitch surface. Aim for neat, even single crochet with minimal gaps. The doll looks best when the head is smooth and round, the ears drape naturally, and the skirt layers hold a soft bell shape without flaring too stiffly.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = 2 sc in same stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• blo = back loop only
• flo = front loop only
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• rep = repeat

Main Bunny Head

The head is large and nearly spherical, with a very soft lower cheek line and only a slight narrowing at the neck. Stuff firmly as you go, especially after Round 18. Keep the stuffing smooth so the face remains round.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Round 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Round 6: (sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Round 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
8. Round 8: (sc 6, inc) x 6. (48)
9. Round 9: (sc 7, inc) x 6. (54)
10. Round 10: (sc 8, inc) x 6. (60)
11. Rounds 11 to 20: sc in each st around. (60 for 10 rounds)
12. Round 21: (sc 8, dec) x 6. (54)
13. Round 22: sc around. (54)
14. Round 23: (sc 7, dec) x 6. (48)
15. Round 24: (sc 6, dec) x 6. (42)
16. Round 25: (sc 5, dec) x 6. (36)
17. Round 26: (sc 4, dec) x 6. (30)
18. Round 27: (sc 3, dec) x 6. (24)

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Insert the 8 mm safety eyes between Rounds 15 and 16 with 10 visible stitches between them. The eyes should sit low enough to leave a broad forehead under the bonnet and wide enough to create the gentle, childlike expression seen in the image.

Embroider a tiny upside-down triangle nose centered between the eyes, about 4 rounds below the eye line. Use pale blush yarn. Add one short vertical stitch down from the nose and two tiny angled stitches to suggest a very soft mouth.

Stuff the head firmly. The finished face should be plump but not stretched. Leave the opening unclosed for now if you prefer to attach directly to the neck tube later, or close with the next shaping round after you attach the neck support.

Main Bunny Ears

The ears are long, narrow, and softly flattened. They are sewn to fall downward along the sides of the head. Do not overstuff. A tiny amount of stuffing near the base is enough.

Make 2

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: (sc 1, inc) x 3. (9)
3. Round 3: (sc 2, inc) x 3. (12)
4. Round 4: (sc 3, inc) x 3. (15)
5. Rounds 5 to 9: sc around. (15 for 5 rounds)
6. Round 10: sc 6, dec, sc 7. (14)
7. Rounds 11 to 16: sc around. (14 for 6 rounds)
8. Round 17: sc 5, dec, sc 7. (13)
9. Rounds 18 to 23: sc around. (13 for 6 rounds)
10. Round 24: sc 4, dec, sc 7. (12)
11. Rounds 25 to 30: sc around. (12 for 6 rounds)

Flatten the open end. Do not close the opening. Lightly steam or finger-shape the ears so they lie flat. Sew each ear to the head around Rounds 7 to 11, angled slightly backward, then allow them to drape downward just past the cheek line.

Neck and Body

The doll in the image has a small neck and a soft cone-shaped body that widens gradually into the dress area. The body should support the oversized head without looking bulky. A rolled neck insert made from tight stuffing helps the head stand upright.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. Rounds 3 to 5: sc around. (12 for 3 rounds)
4. Round 6: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
5. Round 7: sc around. (18)
6. Round 8: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
7. Round 9: sc around. (24)
8. Round 10: (sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
9. Round 11: sc around. (30)
10. Round 12: (sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
11. Rounds 13 to 16: sc around. (36 for 4 rounds)
12. Round 17: (sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
13. Rounds 18 to 22: sc around. (42 for 5 rounds)

Stuff firmly from the neck down, keeping the upper body narrow and the lower body softly rounded. The image suggests the dress covers most shaping, so the body can remain simple. Fasten off, leaving a long tail if you are sewing the body to the head separately.

Main Bunny Legs

The legs are slim and straight with slightly rounded feet hidden by the shoes. They are not very long. The knees are not deeply shaped, and the feet point forward.

Make 2

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rounds 4 to 5: sc around. (18 for 2 rounds)
5. Round 6: sc 5, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 7. (16)
6. Round 7: sc around. (16)
7. Round 8: sc 4, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 6. (14)
8. Rounds 9 to 17: sc around. (14 for 9 rounds)

Stuff feet firmly and legs lightly to medium. Flatten the top slightly. Sew the legs centered beneath the body with only a narrow gap between them. The doll in the photo appears to stand with feet close together and the hem falling around the legs.

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Main Bunny Arms

The arms are short, lightly tapered, and attached low enough to peek out beneath the cape collar. They hang straight down with only a tiny outward angle.

Make 2

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: (sc 1, inc) x 3. (9)
3. Rounds 3 to 4: sc around. (9 for 2 rounds)
4. Round 5: sc 2, dec, sc 5. (8)
5. Rounds 6 to 13: sc around. (8 for 8 rounds)

Add only a pinch of stuffing in the hand area. Flatten the top opening and sew each arm to the upper body just below the neck, roughly at the body rounds where the cape will sit. Angle each arm slightly forward.

Neck Join and Basic Assembly

If your head was left open, align the 24-stitch neck opening of the head with the top of the body. Sew all around through matching stitches. Add extra stuffing into the neck before the final closing stitches so the head sits high and straight, like the doll in the photo.

The final silhouette should have a noticeably large head, narrow shoulder line, modest body width, and short limbs. This proportion is one of the most important visual features of the design.

Main Skirt Base

The skirt has a layered look. Start with a plain underskirt attached around the lower body. Then add the decorative outer panel with the lace-window effect. The skirt should fall to just above the ankles.

1. Join yarn to the front loops left at Body Round 17 if desired, or join at the lower body edge.
2. Round 1: ch 1, sc evenly around lower body edge. Work 42 sc. (42)
3. Round 2: (sc 6, inc) x 6. (48)
4. Round 3: sc around. (48)
5. Round 4: (sc 7, inc) x 6. (54)
6. Round 5: sc around. (54)
7. Round 6: (sc 8, inc) x 6. (60)
8. Rounds 7 to 11: sc around. (60 for 5 rounds)
9. Round 12: in blo, sc around. (60)
10. Rounds 13 to 16: sc around. (60 for 4 rounds)
11. Round 17: (sc 9, inc) x 6. (66)
12. Round 18: sc around. (66)
13. Round 19: (sc 10, inc) x 6. (72)
14. Rounds 20 to 21: sc around. (72 for 2 rounds)

For a soft scalloped hem, work this edging: (sl st, ch 1, hdc, dc, hdc, sl st) in next 2 sts, sl st in next st around. Adjust the repeat slightly at the end if needed so the scallops are even.

Decorative Outer Skirt Panel

The photo shows a cream overskirt with rectangular lace-like panels on the front. To mimic that look in crochet, work a separate shallow overskirt band and sew on mesh-framed motif panels. This gives the same delicate visual effect without fabric inserts.

Outer Overskirt Band

1. Ch 61.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (60)
3. Rows 2 to 5: ch 1, turn, sc across. (60)
4. Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc 5, ch 10, sk 10, sc 10, ch 10, sk 10, sc 10, ch 10, sk 10, sc 5. (creates 3 openings)
5. Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc across, working 10 sc into each ch-10 opening. (60)
6. Rows 8 to 11: ch 1, turn, sc across. (60)

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Wrap this band around the front and sides of the skirt so the three openings sit across the front. Overlap the back slightly and sew in place with tiny stitches.

Lace Motif Panels for Openings

Make 3. Each motif should fit inside one skirt window. These mimic the floral lace seen in the image.

1. Round 1: ch 8, join to form ring.
2. Round 2: ch 1, 12 sc in ring, join. (12)
3. Round 3: ch 3, (dc, ch 2) in same st, sk 1, (2 dc, ch 2) in next st x 5, join.
4. Round 4: sl st into ch-2 space, ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in each ch-2 space around, join.

Then square the motif.

1. Round 5: sl st to a petal gap, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in same gap, sc in next gap, sc in next gap, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in next gap, repeat to make 4 corners, join.
2. Round 6: sc around all edges, working 3 sc in each corner ch-2 space.

Sew one motif behind each opening so the floral centers are visible through the overskirt windows. Add a tiny scallop edging around the lower edge of the overskirt band if desired using (sl st, ch 2, sl st) repeats.

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Cape Collar

The cape sits high around the shoulders and forms a double layered ruffle across the chest. It is one of the signature details in the image. Keep it soft and slightly draped rather than stiff.

1. Ch 31.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (30)
3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 28, inc. (32)
4. Row 3: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 30, inc. (34)
5. Row 4: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 32, inc. (36)
6. Row 5: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 34, inc. (38)
7. Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across. (38)
8. Row 7: ch 1, turn, (sc 1, inc) across. (57)
9. Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (57)
10. Row 9: ch 1, turn, (sc 2, inc) across. (76)
11. Row 10: ch 1, turn, sc across. (76)

Edge the outer curved side with a shallow shell trim: (sl st, hdc, dc, hdc, sl st) in next 3 sts repeated around the lower edge. Leave the neckline plain. Sew or tack the collar around the neck so the front overlaps gently and the lower ruffle sits over the top of the dress.

Bonnet

The bonnet frames the face closely, covers the crown, and continues down into side panels. The flower border sits around the outer front edge. The ties are simple cords tied in a bow beneath the chin.

Crown

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Round 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Round 6: (sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Round 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
8. Round 8: (sc 6, inc) x 6. (48)
9. Rounds 9 to 11: sc around. (48 for 3 rounds)

Bonnet Brim and Sides

Flatten lightly to identify front and back. Work in rows across about 34 front stitches to build the face-framing brim.

1. Row 1: Join yarn to one side front edge, ch 1, sc 34 across.
2. Rows 2 to 4: ch 1, turn, sc across. (34)
3. Row 5: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 32, inc. (36)
4. Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across. (36)
5. Row 7: ch 1, turn, (sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
6. Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (42)

Work one round of sc evenly around the full bonnet edge to tidy it. Then crochet two tie cords, each ch 28, attached at the lower front corners. Knot or lightly wax the ends so they hold a neat bow.

Forget-Me-Not Flower Border

These tiny flowers appear around the bonnet and across the cape. Make enough to decorate both pieces. For the main doll, prepare about 18 blue flowers and 2 small pale blush flowers.

Blue Flower, Make as Needed

1. With blue yarn, make MR.
2. Into ring work: (ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) x 5.
3. Pull ring closed and fasten off.
4. With green yarn, add one tiny French knot or one straight stitch in the center.

Sew flowers one by one along the outer bonnet brim and the cape edge. Place them very close together, with tiny gaps, to create the continuous floral chain seen in the image. Add one small pale blush flower cluster near the bonnet side if desired.

Main Bunny Shoes

The shoes look like soft ballet flats with a rounded toe and crossing ankle ties. Work them directly around the feet or make separate shoe covers. Separate shoes are easier to adjust.

Make 2

1. Round 1: Ch 7. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch. Working on opposite side, sc 4, inc in last st. (14)
2. Round 2: inc, sc 4, inc x 3, sc 4, inc x 2. (20)
3. Round 3: blo, sc around. (20)
4. Round 4: sc 5, dec x 3, sc 9. (17)
5. Round 5: sc 4, dec x 3, sc 7. (14)

Fasten off and sew each shoe to the foot. For the straps, make two long cords with ch 22 each. Cross them over the front of the ankle and wrap around to tie or secure at the back. Keep them delicate.

Mini Companion Head

The small figure reads as a tiny lamb or sheep companion because of the short ears and rounded face. It wears the same style outfit and carries a mini satchel. The face is simple and very sweet.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Round 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Rounds 6 to 10: sc around. (30 for 5 rounds)
7. Round 11: (sc 3, dec) x 6. (24)
8. Round 12: (sc 2, dec) x 6. (18)

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Insert 5 mm eyes between Rounds 7 and 8 with 6 visible stitches between them. Embroider a tiny nose and mouth exactly like the main bunny but slightly smaller.

Mini Companion Ears

Make 2

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: (sc 1, inc) x 3. (9)
3. Rounds 3 to 4: sc around. (9 for 2 rounds)
4. Round 5: sc 3, dec, sc 4. (8)
5. Rounds 6 to 7: sc around. (8 for 2 rounds)

Flatten and sew to the sides of the head. Angle them slightly outward.

Mini Companion Body, Legs, and Arms

This companion is simple and compact. The dress covers most of the body. Keep the proportions chubby and short.

Body

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Rounds 5 to 8: sc around. (24 for 4 rounds)
6. Round 9: (sc 2, dec) x 6. (18)

Legs, Make 2

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: (sc 1, inc) x 3. (9)
3. Rounds 3 to 7: sc around. (9 for 5 rounds)

Arms, Make 2

1. Round 1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. Round 2: sc around. (5)
3. Rounds 3 to 6: sc around. (5 for 4 rounds)

Sew the legs to the body underside and the arms at the upper sides. Attach the head. Keep seams small and hidden.

Mini Companion Dress and Bonnet

The tiny dress is a reduced version of the main outfit. It should sit close to the body and flare slightly at the hem.

Dress

1. Join yarn at lower body.
2. Round 1: 24 sc around. (24)
3. Round 2: (sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
4. Round 3: sc around. (30)
5. Round 4: (sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
6. Rounds 5 to 6: sc around. (36 for 2 rounds)
7. Round 7: scallop edge using (sl st, hdc, dc, hdc, sl st) around.

Mini Bonnet

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Rounds 5 to 6: sc around. (24 for 2 rounds)
6. Row 1: work 18 sc across front.
7. Rows 2 to 4: ch 1, turn, sc across. (18)

Add a few blue flowers along the brim and tie with short chains. Sew the bonnet to the head or leave removable if you prefer.

Main Purse

The purse in the image is boxy, cream, and outlined with pale blue. It has a flap, tiny clasp, and a rounded strap. Use firm tension so it holds shape.

Front and Back Panels, Make 2

1. Ch 11.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (10)
3. Rows 2 to 8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (10)

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Gusset

1. Ch 5.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (4)
3. Rows 2 to 24: ch 1, turn, sc across. (4)

Sew the gusset around the sides and bottom of one panel, then attach the second panel. With blue yarn, surface slip stitch around the outer edges of the front panel to create the trim seen in the image.

Flap

1. Ch 11.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (10)
3. Rows 2 to 4: ch 1, turn, sc across. (10)
4. Row 5: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 6, dec. (8)
5. Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across. (8)

Sew the flap to the upper back of the purse. Add one small cream circle or embroidered dot for the clasp. For the strap, ch 28, then sl st back along the chain. Sew each end to the purse sides.

Embroider two small blue tear-drop motifs and a tiny central accent on the front so the bag matches the photo more closely.

Mini Satchel for the Companion

This tiny bag is shaped like a miniature camera-style satchel. Work it in the same way as the main purse but much smaller.

1. Front and Back: ch 7, sc 6 across for 5 rows. Make 2 panels.
2. Gusset: ch 3, sc 2 across for 14 rows.
3. Assemble into a small box.
4. Flap: ch 7, sc 6 across for 3 rows, then one row with dec, sc 2, dec. (4)
5. Surface sl st in blue around the front.
6. Strap: ch 18, sl st back.

Sew the bag to the mini companion or let it hang crossbody.

Flower Wreath

The small wreath lying on the table is a simple ring decorated with blue flowers. It can be displayed separately or placed on the doll.

1. With green yarn, ch 18 and join into a ring, taking care not to twist.
2. Round 1: 18 sc around the ring. (18)
3. Round 2: sl st around. (18)

Make 6 to 8 tiny blue flowers using the same flower pattern from the bonnet. Sew them evenly around the ring. Add a few tiny green leaf stitches between flowers. Lightly stiffen if you want the wreath to hold a perfect circle.

Folded Handkerchief

The white handkerchief in the image is tiny, soft, and folded into a square. A simple crocheted version works beautifully.

1. Ch 11.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (10)
3. Rows 2 to 10: ch 1, turn, sc across. (10)

Edge all around with (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in each stitch or every other stitch for a lace-like trim. Fold twice into a small square and place beside the doll.

Facial Embroidery Tips for Accuracy

• Keep the eyes glossy and widely spaced.
• The nose should be tiny, centered, and pale pink rather than dark brown.
• The mouth should be minimal, almost hidden.
• Do not add blush unless it is extremely subtle.
• The expression should remain calm and gentle.

Placement Notes for a Photo-Accurate Look

• Sew the ears slightly behind the eye line so the bonnet frames the face cleanly.
• The bonnet should sit low on the forehead and curve close to the cheeks.
• The cape collar must overlap the top of the dress and cover the shoulder seams.
• The flower trim should be dense and evenly spaced.
• The purse strap should be soft and rounded, not flat and stiff.
• The mini companion should stand slightly shorter than half the main bunny height.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Attach head, ears, arms, and legs securely before dressing the doll. Sew the overskirt neatly so the three front lace panels remain centered. Add the cape next, then the bonnet. Tie the bonnet cords in a small bow. Embroider the face last if you want to fine-tune expression after full assembly.

Care Notes

Display indoors away from direct sun. Because of the pale yarn and detailed embellishments, this piece is best treated as a decorative amigurumi doll rather than a rough-play toy. Handle the flower trim, purse straps, and bonnet ties gently.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head is centered and well supported.
• Ears fall softly and evenly.
• Eyes are level.
• Nose is centered.
• Cape sits flat.
• Bonnet frames the face.
• Flowers are balanced on bonnet and collar.
• Skirt windows are centered on the front.
• Shoes are matched and straps cross evenly.
• Purse and mini companion are scaled correctly.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a barely damp cloth and mild soap. Do not machine wash. Reshape while damp and allow to air dry flat. For long-term storage, wrap in acid-free tissue and keep in a dry box away from humidity, dust, and prolonged sunlight to preserve the cream yarn and delicate floral details.