Crochet Tutorial: Lavender Garden Doll – Free Crochet Pattern

This elegant lavender crochet doll brings together a romantic garden look, delicate fairy wings, and charming miniature accessories. It is perfect for anyone who loves handmade amigurumi dolls, heirloom-style crochet decor, collectible fiber art, and boutique gift ideas often searched by shoppers looking for a premium crochet doll pattern.

With her floral skirt, soft hat, tiny handbag, teapot, cup, and lace mat, this project creates a complete display set. It suits makers who enjoy cottagecore crochet, fairy doll decor, handmade nursery accents, and artisan gift designs that often inspire searches for amigurumi doll pattern, crochet gift set, and handmade doll tutorial.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main yarn: light lavender cotton yarn for dress, wings, shoes, hat, teapot, cup, and bag
• Contrast yarn: cream or ivory cotton yarn for ruffles, lace edges, wing trim, mat, and hat brim trim
• Skin tone yarn: pale peach cotton yarn for head, hands, and legs
• Hair yarn: dark charcoal or soft black cotton yarn
• Accent yarns: dusty pink, pale blush, lavender, soft green, and cream for roses and leaves
• Hooks: 2.0 mm for the doll and accessories, 1.75 mm for tiny flowers if needed
• Stuffing: firm polyester fiberfill
• Safety eyes: 8 mm black, or embroidered eyes if preferred
• Floral oval gem or button: approximately 10 to 12 mm for bodice center
• Thin craft wire: optional for shaping wings and hat brim
• Tapestry needle, scissors, stitch markers, sewing pins
• Cardboard circle: optional base insert for skirt if you want a firmer standing display

Yarn and Tension Notes

This pattern is designed for tightly crocheted amigurumi fabric. Use a smaller hook than the yarn label suggests. The stitches should be dense enough that stuffing does not show through. The doll in the photo has a very smooth, compact structure, so even tension matters throughout the entire project.

The original look is best achieved with mercerized or matte cotton yarn in sport or light DK weight. A cotton-rich yarn keeps the dress crisp, the hat well shaped, and the small accessories stable. Acrylic can be used, but it will soften the sharp floral and ruffle details.

Finished Size

• Doll height: approximately 11.5 to 13 inches tall including hat
• Body without hat: approximately 9.5 to 10.5 inches
• Hat brim width: approximately 4.75 to 5.25 inches across
• Each wing: approximately 3.75 inches tall and 3 inches wide
• Bag: approximately 2.5 inches tall
• Teapot: approximately 2 inches wide from spout to handle
• Cup and saucer: approximately 1 inch tall and 1.5 inches wide

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = 2 sc in same stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• rep = repeat

General Construction Notes

The doll is made from the legs upward, with the head joined directly to the body. The arms are sewn on later. Hair is attached as layered strands and fixed into a center-part style with short bangs. The skirt is crocheted separately and attached to the waist.

The look of the photographed doll depends heavily on proportion. The head is large and rounded, the torso is short, the skirt is wide and bell shaped, and the wings are oversized enough to frame the shoulders. Keep the limbs slim and neat so the dress remains the visual focus.

Stuff the head firmly, the neck very firmly, and the body moderately. The skirt should flare instead of collapsing. If you want the exact display effect, place a light cardboard circle between the inner petticoat and outer skirt layers, or lightly starch the lower dress edge.

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Head

With skin tone yarn

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
8. Rnd 8: (sc 6, inc) x 6. (48)
9. Rnd 9: (sc 7, inc) x 6. (54)
10. Rnd 10: (sc 8, inc) x 6. (60)
11. Rnd 11-21: sc around. (60 each round)

Insert the eyes between Rnds 15 and 16 with about 10 visible stitches between them. The face in the photo is sweet and slightly wide set, so do not place the eyes too close together. Add a very small horizontal nose between Rnds 17 and 18 using skin tone yarn.

1. Rnd 22: (sc 8, dec) x 6. (54)
2. Rnd 23: (sc 7, dec) x 6. (48)
3. Rnd 24: (sc 6, dec) x 6. (42)
4. Rnd 25: (sc 5, dec) x 6. (36)
5. Rnd 26: (sc 4, dec) x 6. (30)

Stuff the head firmly and evenly. The cheeks should remain softly rounded. Lightly shape the face with your fingers while stuffing. Avoid overstuffing the lower face because the doll in the photo has a smooth, compact chin rather than a protruding muzzle.

1. Rnd 27: BLO sc around. (30)
2. Rnd 28: sc around. (30)
3. Rnd 29: (sc 3, dec) x 6. (24)

The neck begins after this point, and it must be dense and stable to support the hat and wings visually. If needed, insert a short wooden dowel or tightly rolled craft stem inside the neck while continuing.

Neck and Upper Torso

1. Rnd 30: sc around. (24)
2. Rnd 31: (sc 2, dec) x 6. (18)
3. Rnd 32-34: sc around. (18 each round)
4. Rnd 35: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Rnd 36: (sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Rnd 37-39: sc around. (30 each round)

This short upper body section should stay cylindrical and compact. The dress bodice will cover it, so keep the shaping subtle. The shoulders must be wide enough for the wings and puffed sleeves to sit naturally.

Lower Torso and Hips

1. Rnd 40: (sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
2. Rnd 41: sc around. (36)
3. Rnd 42: (sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
4. Rnd 43-44: sc around. (42 each round)
5. Rnd 45: (sc 5, dec) x 6. (36)
6. Rnd 46: sc around. (36)
7. Rnd 47: BLO sc around. (36)
8. Rnd 48: sc around. (36)
9. Fasten off.

Rnd 47 creates the waist edge where the skirt can be anchored. Stuff the torso firmly at the top and moderately at the hips. The doll in the image stands hidden under the skirt, so the body does not need dramatic hip shaping.

Legs

Make 2 with lavender for shoes and skin tone for legs

1. Rnd 1: With lavender, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: sc around. (18)
5. Rnd 5: sc 6, dec x 3, sc 6. (15)
6. Rnd 6: sc around. (15)
7. Change to skin tone.
8. Rnd 7: BLO sc around. (15)
9. Rnd 8-18: sc around. (15 each round)

Stuff the foot firmly and the leg lightly. The feet in the photo are tiny and just visible beneath the dress. Keep the shoes rounded and dainty. Embroider a tiny lavender bow or single stitch cluster on the front of each shoe.

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Do not fasten off the first leg. Finish the second leg and join them to make the body base.

Joining the legs

1. On second leg, ch 3.
2. Join to first leg with sc.
3. Rnd 19: sc 15 around first leg, sc 3 across chain, sc 15 around second leg, sc 3 on other side of chain. (36)
4. Rnd 20-22: sc around. (36 each round)

Continue directly into the lower torso section written above if you prefer making the doll continuously. If working in separate sections, sew the torso neatly to the joined legs so the body remains centered and straight under the skirt.

Arms

Make 2

1. Rnd 1: With skin tone, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: (sc 1, inc) x 3. (9)
3. Rnd 3-4: sc around. (9 each round)
4. Change to cream.
5. Rnd 5: BLO sc around. (9)
6. Change to lavender.
7. Rnd 6: sc around. (9)
8. Rnd 7: (sc 2, inc) x 3. (12)
9. Rnd 8-10: sc around. (12 each round)
10. Rnd 11: (sc 2, dec) x 3. (9)
11. Rnd 12-18: sc around. (9 each round)
12. Flatten and sc through both layers 4 sts to close.

The cream round creates the lace cuff edge. After Rnd 5, work into the front loops left free: (sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, sl st) in one loop, skip 1, rep around to create a tiny ruffle cuff.

The upper arm should remain slender with a slightly fuller sleeve top. Do not overstuff. Add only a tiny amount of filling near the hand and upper sleeve. The arms in the photo point downward and outward very gently.

Hair Cap

With dark charcoal yarn

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
8. Rnd 8: (sc 6, inc) x 6. (48)
9. Rnd 9: (sc 7, inc) x 6. (54)
10. Rnd 10: (sc 8, inc) x 6. (60)
11. Rnd 11-14: sc around. (60 each round)
12. Fasten off with long tail.

Sew the cap to the head so it sits low enough at the back and sides but leaves a clean forehead area. The hairstyle in the photo is centered, smooth, and softly curled at the ends, with two short bangs falling down the middle front.

Hair Strands

Cut multiple equal strands of dark yarn, each about 12 to 14 inches long. Fold and latch them under stitches along the center part and side sections of the cap. You need enough strands to cover the cap completely, but not so many that the hair becomes bulky.

For the front, attach shorter strands for bangs. Each bang strand should reach to about eye level or slightly lower once shaped. Divide into two narrow front sections and tack them down so they fall straight near the center of the forehead.

• Back layer: attach strands around the lower back of the cap
• Middle layer: attach strands across the crown and side panels
• Front layer: attach side face-framing strands and short bangs

After attaching, brush gently with fingers, arrange into a center part, and sew the side sections close to the head above the shoulders. Curl or steam-shape the lower ends inward so the hair rests against the bodice like the image.

Dress Bodice

With lavender yarn

The bodice is worked in joined rounds from the chest downward and then embellished. It should fit snugly over the torso. If you worked the body continuously, join yarn to the front loops or waist edge and adjust stitch count so the bodice looks smooth and centered.

1. Rnd 1: Join yarn around upper torso with 30 sc. (30)
2. Rnd 2: (sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
3. Rnd 3: sc around. (36)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
5. Rnd 5: sc around. (42)

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To create the neckline frill seen in the photo, join lavender yarn at the front neckline and work: (sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) in one st, skip 1 st, rep around the neckline. Make the front ruffles slightly denser for a fuller collar effect.

Add a second smaller ruffle layer just beneath the neckline if you want the same lush floral-gown look. Work into a lower exposed row with repeating shells of 3 dc in every other stitch. Do not make it too long; it should frame the upper chest only.

Waist flower band

Using soft green, surface crochet or sew a narrow belt line around the waist. Attach small roses across the front and sides in lavender, cream, and blush. The photo shows clustered floral trimming rather than evenly spaced flowers, so group them naturally.

Center gem detail

Sew a small oval violet gem, bead, or embroidered oval medallion at the center chest. Frame it with a few tiny whipstitched lavender rounds if needed. This detail is important because it anchors the neckline visually and closely matches the photographed doll.

Puffed Shoulder Sleeves

Join lavender yarn to each armhole area. Work 12 sts around the upper sleeve area, either directly onto the arm piece before sewing or onto the bodice edge after placement. The sleeve should puff gently without becoming oversized.

1. Rnd 1: 12 sc around. (12)
2. Rnd 2: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
3. Rnd 3: sc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 1, dec) x 6. (12)
5. Fasten off.

Sew the completed arms just below the neckline ruffle. Angle them slightly downward. The wrists should rest near the skirt sides. The image shows delicate, almost open-handed positioning, so keep the arm spread very soft.

Outer Skirt

With lavender yarn

This skirt creates the signature bell silhouette. It is worked from the waist downward in rounds. Use stitch markers at the side points if needed so the shaping stays even. The lower section must spread dramatically to showcase the many attached roses.

1. Rnd 1: Join to waist edge with 36 sc. (36)
2. Rnd 2: (sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
3. Rnd 3: sc around. (42)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 6, inc) x 6. (48)
5. Rnd 5: sc around. (48)
6. Rnd 6: (sc 7, inc) x 6. (54)
7. Rnd 7: sc around. (54)
8. Rnd 8: (sc 8, inc) x 6. (60)
9. Rnd 9: sc around. (60)
10. Rnd 10: (sc 9, inc) x 6. (66)
11. Rnd 11: sc around. (66)
12. Rnd 12: (sc 10, inc) x 6. (72)
13. Rnd 13: sc around. (72)
14. Rnd 14: (sc 11, inc) x 6. (78)
15. Rnd 15: sc around. (78)
16. Rnd 16: (sc 12, inc) x 6. (84)
17. Rnd 17-22: sc around. (84 each round)

For a slightly more flared lower edge like the photo, work one more increase round if needed: (sc 13, inc) x 6 for 90 stitches, then 1 to 2 plain rounds. The skirt should naturally bell outward rather than fall straight down.

Lower skirt texture row

About 1.5 inches above the hem, add a horizontal decorative line by surface slip stitching in lavender or slightly deeper violet. This echoes the subtle structured banding visible in the photo and helps divide the floral field from the upper dress body.

Inner Petticoat and Hem Ruffle

With cream yarn

Join cream yarn to the inside lower edge of the skirt or make separately and sew in place. The photo shows a visible cream underskirt with a generous ruffle extending below the lavender floral layer.

1. Rnd 1: Join with 84 sc around. (84)
2. Rnd 2: (sc 6, inc) x 12. (96)
3. Rnd 3: sc around. (96)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 7, inc) x 12. (108)
5. Rnd 5: hdc around. (108)
6. Rnd 6: (2 dc in each st around). (216)
7. Rnd 7: loosely sl st around or leave plain.

This ruffle should be soft and full. Steam lightly if needed. Let it show about half an inch below the lavender outer skirt. That layered contrast is important for matching the elegant, vintage-inspired silhouette seen in the image.

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Roses and Leaves for Dress and Bodice

You will need many small roses in three main shades: lavender, cream, and pale blush. Make them in mixed sizes. The photo shows dense floral embellishment concentrated on the lower skirt, with a few flowers on the waist and upper bodice.

Small rose

1. Ch 16.
2. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 2 in next ch, dc 2 in next ch, hdc 1, sc 1, rep petal sequence across. Leave long tail.
3. Roll strip from first petal to last and sew base closed.

Medium rose

1. Ch 21.
2. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch, (sc 1, hdc 1, dc 2, tr 1, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1) over each 3-ch section formed mentally across the chain. Use the chain space gradually to create larger petals at the outer edge.
3. Roll and stitch in place.

Tiny bud

1. MR, ch 1, 6 sc in ring. Join.
2. Rnd 2: (sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, sl st) x 3 around.
3. Pull tight and sew closed.

Leaves

1. Ch 6 with soft green.
2. Work back along chain: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc.
3. On opposite side of chain: hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st.
4. Fasten off with tail for sewing.

Make approximately 25 to 35 flowers in mixed sizes for the skirt, 4 to 6 for the waist and bodice, and 20 to 30 leaves. Arrange them before sewing. Place largest roses near the lower front center and scatter smaller ones outward for a natural garden effect.

Wings

Make 2 mirrored pieces with lavender and cream

Each wing is made from a center base and three elongated feather-lobes. The wing should curve upward and outward. You can crochet freeform segments and join them, but the following measured construction gives a close match to the photographed shape.

Wing base

1. With lavender, ch 11.
2. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch, sc 9, 3 sc in last ch, working on opposite side sc 8, inc in last st. (22)
3. Row 2: sc 9, inc x 3, sc 8, inc x 2. (27)
4. Row 3: sc around. (27)

Upper lobe

1. Join yarn near upper outer edge.
2. Ch 9.
3. Work back: sc 1, hdc 2, dc 3, tr 2.
4. Sl st to base 2 sts away.

Middle lobe

1. Ch 11.
2. Work back: sc 1, hdc 2, dc 4, tr 3.
3. Sl st to base 2 sts away.

Lower lobe

1. Ch 13.
2. Work back: sc 1, hdc 2, dc 5, tr 4.
3. Sl st to base.

After the lobes are formed, crochet a stabilizing round of sc evenly around the entire wing. Shape it gently with your fingers. Make the second wing as a mirror image so both curve symmetrically behind the doll’s shoulders.

Cream wing lace edging

Join cream yarn around each wing edge. Work: sc 1, ch 3, skip 1, sc 1, ch 3, skip 1 around curved sections. On tips, work small shells of (sc, ch 2, sc) or (hdc, dc, hdc) to mimic scalloped lace. Keep the edging delicate.

Add an inner cream band by surface slip stitching a curved line across each wing lobe. This creates the layered feather-panel effect visible in the image. Light starch or thin wire can be inserted along the top edge if you want sharper structure.

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Hat Crown

With lavender yarn

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Rnd 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
8. Rnd 8-12: sc around. (42 each round)

The hat crown in the photo is modestly domed and not overly tall. Try the fit over the doll’s hair before continuing. It should sit low and elegant, with enough space for the hair volume underneath.

Hat Brim

1. Rnd 13: BLO (sc 6, inc) x 6. (48)
2. Rnd 14: sc around. (48)
3. Rnd 15: (sc 7, inc) x 6. (54)
4. Rnd 16: sc around. (54)
5. Rnd 17: (sc 8, inc) x 6. (60)
6. Rnd 18: sc around. (60)
7. Rnd 19: (sc 9, inc) x 6. (66)
8. Rnd 20: sc around. (66)
9. Rnd 21: (sc 10, inc) x 6. (72)
10. Rnd 22: sl st loosely around.

For the cream brim trim, join cream yarn to the front loops left from Rnd 13 or to the outer brim edge. Work a tidy scallop round: (sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) in one st, skip 1 or 2 sts, repeat around.

Hat band and side flower

Make a narrow cream chain or surface crochet band around the crown base. Add a lavender rolled flower and one small cream leaf cluster to the left side. This detail is small but very important because it matches the image closely.

Mini Drawstring Bag

With lavender yarn

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Rnd 5-10: sc around. (24 each round)
6. Rnd 11: BLO sc around. (24)
7. Rnd 12: (sc 2, ch 1, skip 1) around. (24 including ch-spaces)
8. Rnd 13: sc around, placing sc in ch spaces and sts. (24)

Fasten off. Thread a lavender chain through the eyelet round for the drawstring. For the handle, attach yarn to opposite upper sides and ch 28 to 32, then secure. Add a tiny bow at the front. Lightly stuff the bag base or leave empty.

Teapot

Base with lavender yarn

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Rnd 5-7: sc around. (24 each round)
6. Rnd 8: (sc 2, dec) x 6. (18)
7. Rnd 9: sc around. (18)
8. Rnd 10: (sc 1, dec) x 6. (12)
9. Rnd 11: sc around. (12)

Stuff lightly and close if making a fully stuffed display teapot, or leave open and cover with the lid. The body in the photo is rounded and low, not tall. Shape it gently with your hands while stuffing.

Spout

1. Ch 7.
2. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch, sc 6.
3. Rows 2-4: sc across. (6)
4. Row 5: dec, sc 2, dec. (4)
5. Row 6: sc across. (4)

Fold lengthwise and seam into a narrow cone. Sew to one side of the teapot body at a slight upward angle.

Handle

1. Ch 10.
2. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (9)

Sew the handle to the opposite side in a rounded loop.

Lid

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Rnd 3: BLO sc around. (12)
4. Rnd 4: sc around. (12)
5. Top knob: MR, 4 sc, fasten off and sew to lid center.

Sew or tack the lid lightly to the teapot body. Add a cream trim row around the lid edge if you want extra closeness to the photo.

Teacup and Saucer

Cup with cream yarn

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Rnd 3: BLO sc around. (12)
4. Rnd 4-5: sc around. (12 each round)
5. Rnd 6: sl st loosely around.

For the handle, ch 6 and sl st back across, then sew to the side of the cup.

Saucer with lavender yarn

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rnd 4: BLO hdc around. (18)
5. Rnd 5: (2 dc in each st around). (36)
6. Fasten off.

Set the cup on the saucer and tack lightly if you want the display to stay assembled.

Lace Mat

With cream yarn

1. Rnd 1: MR, ch 3, 11 dc in ring. Join. (12)
2. Rnd 2: ch 4, dc in next st, ch 1 around. Join. (12 dc, 12 ch-1 spaces)
3. Rnd 3: sl st into space, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in each ch-1 space around.
4. Rnd 4: sl st to next ch-2 space, (sc, ch 5, sc) in each ch-2 space around.
5. Rnd 5: In each ch-5 loop work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc).

This creates a floral mini doily close to the one in the photo. Block it flat so the petal edges show clearly under the teapot and cup.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the arms evenly to the upper body. Attach the wings to the back just below the neckline and slightly behind the shoulder line. Position the hat at a gentle angle, with the flower on the doll’s left side.

Embroider fine eyelashes if using safety eyes. Add a tiny blush to the cheeks. Keep the mouth minimal or omit it completely for the sweet, quiet expression shown in the image. Secure the hair so the center bangs stay soft and neat.

Sew the roses and leaves to the skirt after pinning the full arrangement first. Concentrate the largest flowers around the lower front hem. Add smaller blossoms and buds upward in a scattered, garden-like pattern.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from direct sun to protect the lavender tones
• Handle the wings and hat gently to keep their shape
• Do not hang the doll by the hat or wings
• Store accessories together in a small box when not displayed

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head firmly stuffed and neck stable
• Hair centered with two short front bangs
• Hat brim trimmed in cream and side flower attached
• Wings mirrored and sewn evenly
• Cream petticoat visible below skirt
• Roses balanced across skirt front and sides
• Bag, teapot, cup, saucer, and mat completed

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Dust gently with a soft brush or cool hair dryer on the lowest setting. Spot clean with a barely damp cloth and mild soap only when needed. Do not soak if your doll includes glue, wire, cardboard inserts, or blush cosmetics.

For long-term preservation, keep the doll upright in a dry space with low humidity. Store acid-free tissue inside the hat and around the wings if packed away. Re-block the mat and lightly steam the skirt and brim only from a safe distance.