Crochet Tutorial: Mint Cinderella Fairy Doll – Free Crochet Pattern

This elegant amigurumi design combines a collectible fairy doll, a sweeping mint crochet gown, soft wings, a floral hat, and a tiny embroidered purse. It has the look of a heirloom crochet doll or handmade fantasy gift, with refined details that suit display, gifting, or boutique-style décor.

The finished piece is ideal for makers who love crochet doll pattern, amigurumi fairy, crochet princess doll, and handmade doll decor projects. The silhouette is graceful and storybook-inspired, while each section is built in a practical order so the finished doll closely matches the image.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main dress color: light mint cotton or cotton-blend yarn, DK weight
• Skin tone: light beige yarn, sport to DK weight
• Hair: medium gray yarn, sport or DK weight
• Wings: white yarn, sport or DK weight
• Lace edging: white yarn, lighter DK or sport weight
• Rose details: dusty pink and pale blush yarn
• Leaves: sage or olive green yarn
• Shoes: mint yarn
• Purse base: cream or very pale beige yarn
• Embroidery floss or yarn: black for eyelashes, pink for blush accents if desired
• Hook sizes: 2.25 mm for doll parts, 2.5 mm for dress and accessories, optional 2.0 mm for tiny roses
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
• Safety eyes: optional, but embroidered eyes are recommended for this exact look
• Craft wire: optional for hat brim shaping and wings
• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers
• Straight pins
• Small pearl beads: optional, for bodice and skirt trim
• Thin plastic circle or cardboard insert: optional, for purse structure

Finished Size

Using the yarn weights and hooks above, the doll measures approximately 13.5 to 15 inches tall from the bottom of the shoes to the top of the hat crown. The head is large and rounded, the torso is narrow, the skirt is very wide, and the wings extend outward beyond shoulder width.

Gauge and Design Notes

This pattern is written to produce a firm amigurumi fabric with very little visible stuffing. Keep stitches tight and consistent. The doll in the image has a smooth face, delicate limbs, a dramatic layered skirt, and soft flowing curls, so tension matters throughout the project.

• Work in continuous rounds unless a section says otherwise
• Use invisible decreases for a cleaner finish
• Stuff gradually and do not overfill the arms or lower legs
• Pin all parts in place before sewing
• The skirt, wings, purse, hat flowers, and lace create most of the visual accuracy, so work these carefully

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase, 2 sc in same stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• rep = repeat

Construction Overview

1. Make shoes and legs
2. Join legs and crochet body upward
3. Make head and shape neck
4. Make arms and sew on
5. Create layered dress details
6. Make hair cap, long curls, and bangs
7. Make hat, roses, leaves, and purse
8. Make wings
9. Assemble and embroider face

Legs and Shoes

Shoe Base Make 2

Begin with mint yarn.

1. Ch 7.
2. Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch. Working on opposite side of foundation, sc 4, inc in last st. (14)
3. Rnd 2: inc, sc 4, 3 inc, sc 4, 2 inc. (20)
4. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, sc 4, rep inc 3 times, sc 4, rep inc 2 times, sc 1. (26)
5. Rnd 4: BLO sc around. (26)
6. Rnd 5: sc around. (26)
7. Rnd 6: sc 7, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 7. (24)
8. Rnd 7: sc 6, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 6. (22)
9. Rnd 8: sc 5, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 5. (20)
10. Rnd 9: sc 5, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 5. (18)

📌Thank you for reading the article

Stuff the front of the shoe lightly. Add a sole insert if desired for stability.

Lower Leg

1. Rnd 10: Change to skin tone in BLO, sc around. (18)
2. Rnd 11: sc around. (18)
3. Rnd 12: dec, sc 7, dec, sc 7. (16)
4. Rnd 13-24: sc around for 12 rounds. (16)

The lower leg should be slender and straight. Stuff firmly at the ankle, then lightly through the calf so the leg stays neat and narrow.

For the First Leg

Fasten off.

For the Second Leg

Do not fasten off. Continue to join the body.

Body

Joining the Legs

Place both legs facing forward. From the second leg, ch 4 and join to the first leg.

1. Rnd 25: sc around first leg 16, sc in next 4 ch, sc around second leg 16, sc in opposite side of ch 4. (40)
2. Rnd 26: sc around. (40)
3. Rnd 27: sc 16, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 16. (38)
4. Rnd 28: sc 15, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 15. (36)
5. Rnd 29: sc around. (36)
6. Rnd 30: sc 10, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 6. (32)
7. Rnd 31: sc around. (32)
8. Rnd 32: sc 6, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 6, dec. (28)

Stuff the hips and lower torso now. The image shows a very small waist, so begin tapering decisively from this point.

Waist and Bodice

1. Rnd 33: BLO sc around. (28)
2. Rnd 34: sc around. (28)
3. Rnd 35: sc 5, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 5, dec. (24)
4. Rnd 36: sc around. (24)
5. Rnd 37: sc 4, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 4, dec. (20)
6. Rnd 38: Change to mint yarn, sc around. (20)
7. Rnd 39: sc around. (20)
8. Rnd 40: inc, sc 4, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 4, inc. (24)
9. Rnd 41: sc around. (24)
10. Rnd 42: inc, sc 5, inc, sc 10, inc, sc 5, inc. (28)
11. Rnd 43: sc around. (28)

The bodice should be fitted and vertical. Add a tiny amount of stuffing only if needed to smooth the shape, but do not make the chest bulky.

Neck Base

1. Rnd 44: Change to skin tone, BLO sc 2, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 2. (24)
2. Rnd 45: sc around. (24)
3. Rnd 46: sc 4, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 4. (21)
4. Rnd 47: sc around. (21)
5. Rnd 48: sc 5, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 5, dec. (18)

Stuff the neck firmly. A wooden stick or rolled plastic insert inside the neck is helpful because the head is large and the hat adds height.

Head

Continue with skin tone from the neck.

1. Rnd 49: inc in each st around. (36)
2. Rnd 50: sc 5, inc around. (42)
3. Rnd 51: sc 6, inc around. (48)
4. Rnd 52: sc 7, inc around. (54)
5. Rnd 53: sc 8, inc around. (60)
6. Rnd 54-64: sc around for 11 rounds. (60)

The face in the image is softly rounded with full cheeks and a small chin. Keep stuffing even, especially across the lower half of the face.

📌Thank you for reading the article

1. Rnd 65: sc 8, dec around. (54)
2. Rnd 66: sc 7, dec around. (48)
3. Rnd 67: sc 6, dec around. (42)
4. Rnd 68: sc 5, dec around. (36)

Stuff firmly now and shape by hand. Push extra stuffing into the cheeks and forehead while keeping the chin area softer.

1. Rnd 69: sc 4, dec around. (30)
2. Rnd 70: sc 3, dec around. (24)
3. Rnd 71: sc 2, dec around. (18)
4. Rnd 72: dec around. (9)

Fasten off and close.

Arms Make 2

Start with skin tone.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3-4: sc around. (12)
4. Rnd 5: sc 3, dec, sc 5, dec. (10)
5. Rnd 6-16: sc around for 11 rounds. (10)
6. Rnd 17: flatten opening and sc 5 through both sides.

Lightly stuff only the hand and lower arm. Leave the upper arm soft so it lies naturally beside the dress. The arms in the image angle slightly forward and downward.

Skirt Base

The full silhouette is essential to the look. The skirt begins from the unused front loops of body round 33.

Attach mint yarn to the FLO of round 33.

1. Rnd 1: inc in each loop around. (56)
2. Rnd 2: sc around. (56)
3. Rnd 3: sc 6, inc around. (64)
4. Rnd 4: sc around. (64)
5. Rnd 5: sc 7, inc around. (72)
6. Rnd 6: sc around. (72)
7. Rnd 7: sc 8, inc around. (80)
8. Rnd 8: sc around. (80)
9. Rnd 9: sc 9, inc around. (88)
10. Rnd 10: sc around. (88)
11. Rnd 11: sc 10, inc around. (96)
12. Rnd 12: sc around. (96)
13. Rnd 13: sc 11, inc around. (104)
14. Rnd 14: sc around. (104)
15. Rnd 15: sc 12, inc around. (112)
16. Rnd 16: sc around. (112)
17. Rnd 17: sc 13, inc around. (120)
18. Rnd 18: sc around. (120)

At this point the skirt should begin to flare heavily. Steam block lightly if needed.

Openwork Lower Band

1. Rnd 19: sc 3, ch 1, skip 1, rep around. End with ch 1, join. (60 sc spaces)
2. Rnd 20: sc in each sc and 1 sc in each ch-1 space around. (120)
3. Rnd 21: dc around. (120)
4. Rnd 22: dc around. (120)
5. Rnd 23: shell edging: skip 1, 5 dc in next st, skip 1, sl st in next st, rep around.

This creates the gently scalloped hem seen at the bottom of the gown.

Overskirt Layer

This section creates the draped upper layer decorated with roses, pearls, and lace. Attach mint yarn to a round approximately 7 rounds below the waistline on the outside of the skirt.

1. Rnd 1: sc around 88 stitches evenly.
2. Rnd 2: dc around. (88)
3. Rnd 3: dc around. (88)
4. Rnd 4: dc 7, inc around. (99)
5. Rnd 5: dc around. (99)
6. Rnd 6: in FLO, work decorative fan repeat: skip 1, 6 dc in next st, skip 1, sl st in next st, rep around.

This upper overskirt should sit outward and slightly lift away from the underlayer. Sew tiny pearl beads at several fan valleys for the same elegant effect as the image.

White Lace Trim

Attach white yarn to the lower edge of the overskirt underside or directly beneath the mint fan round, depending on the placement you prefer.

1. Row 1: ch 1, sc evenly around the full circumference.
2. Row 2: ch 3, skip 1, sc in next, rep around.
3. Row 3: in each ch-3 space work 5 dc, sc in next sc, rep around.
4. Row 4: ch 1, working into tops of shells, sl st, ch 3, sl st, ch 3 across each shell to create a more delicate lace finish.

The white trim in the image is light, soft, and decorative rather than stiff. Use a slightly finer yarn if possible.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Bodice Frill and Neckline

Attach mint yarn to the unused front loops from body round 44 or sew this piece separately around the neckline.

1. Rnd 1: sc evenly around 24 stitches.
2. Rnd 2: in FLO, work (sc, hdc, dc) in one st, sl st in next, rep around.

This creates the off-shoulder ruffled neckline. Place the fuller points toward the front and sides. The neckline should frame the face and sit just above the arms.

Center Rose for Bodice

With dusty pink yarn:

1. Ch 21.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, work 2 sc in each of the next 6 ch, then 2 hdc in each of the next 6 ch, then 2 dc in each of the next 8 ch.
3. Roll tightly from the sc end to the dc end.
4. Sew base securely.

Sew the rose at the center of the bodice. Add two small mint or sage leaves beneath if desired.

Skirt Roses Make 3

Make one white mint-tinted rose for each side panel and one dusty pink rose for the center purse or upper trim if needed.

1. Ch 26.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, (sc, hdc) in next 6 ch, (hdc, dc) in next 8 ch, 2 dc in next 11 ch.
3. Roll and stitch firmly.

Sew two larger roses on the overskirt, one left and one right, positioned slightly above the lace trim. Add small embroidered leaves in olive green.

Hair Cap

With gray yarn:

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: sc 3, inc around. (30)
6. Rnd 6: sc 4, inc around. (36)
7. Rnd 7: sc 5, inc around. (42)
8. Rnd 8: sc 6, inc around. (48)
9. Rnd 9: sc 7, inc around. (54)
10. Rnd 10: sc 8, inc around. (60)
11. Rnd 11-14: sc around. (60)

Fasten off with a long tail. The cap should cover the crown and slightly frame the upper sides of the face.

Long Curled Hair Strands

The hair in the image is full, soft, and falls in long defined waves to the skirt line. Make many strands in mixed lengths.

Standard Curl Make 18 to 24

1. Ch 36.
2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, work 2 sc in each chain across.

This naturally curls. For tighter curls, use 3 sc in each chain. For wider front pieces, use hdc instead of sc in a few strands.

Suggested Placement

• 6 long curls across the back center
• 4 long curls on each side of the back
• 2 medium curls on each side front
• 2 short face-framing curls near the cheeks
• 3 short straight fringe pieces for bangs

Bangs

For each bang piece, ch 8. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. Make 3 pieces. Sew vertically at the forehead center with a slight curve.

Sew the longer curls under the cap in layers, beginning at the lower back edge and working upward. Let the side curls fall forward over the shoulders.

Hat

Crown

With mint yarn:

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: sc 3, inc around. (30)
6. Rnd 6: sc 4, inc around. (36)
7. Rnd 7: sc 5, inc around. (42)
8. Rnd 8-13: sc around. (42)

📌Thank you for reading the article

Brim

1. Rnd 14: BLO, sc 6, inc around. (48)
2. Rnd 15: sc around. (48)
3. Rnd 16: sc 7, inc around. (54)
4. Rnd 17: sc around. (54)
5. Rnd 18: sc 8, inc around. (60)
6. Rnd 19: sc around. (60)
7. Rnd 20: sc 9, inc around. (66)
8. Rnd 21: sc around. (66)
9. Rnd 22: crab stitch or sl st loosely around for a clean brim edge.

Lightly steam and shape the brim downward at the sides to match the soft floppy hat in the image. A thin wire can be added inside the outer edge if desired.

Hat Roses and Leaves

Make 2 small roses and 2 to 3 leaves.

Small Rose Make 2

1. Ch 16.
2. Row 1: 2 sc in each of first 5 ch, 2 hdc in each of next 5 ch, 2 dc in each of last 5 ch.
3. Roll and stitch.

Leaf Make 3

1. Ch 7.
2. Working along chain: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc. On opposite side work sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st.

Sew roses and leaves to one side of the hat band.

Wings Make 2

Each wing is worked in rows, then edged, lightly stuffed or lined, and sewn to the back. The wings should curve upward and outward.

Main Wing Piece

With white yarn, ch 2.

1. Row 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Turn. (6)
2. Row 2: ch 1, inc in each st. Turn. (12)
3. Row 3: ch 1, sc across. Turn. (12)
4. Row 4: ch 1, inc, sc 10, inc. Turn. (14)
5. Row 5: ch 1, sc across. Turn. (14)
6. Row 6: ch 1, inc, sc 12, inc. Turn. (16)
7. Row 7: ch 1, sc across. Turn. (16)
8. Row 8: ch 1, inc, sc 14, inc. Turn. (18)
9. Row 9: ch 1, sc across. Turn. (18)
10. Row 10: ch 1, inc, sc 16, inc. Turn. (20)
11. Row 11: ch 1, sc across. Turn. (20)
12. Row 12: ch 1, inc, sc 18, inc. Turn. (22)
13. Row 13: ch 1, sc across. Turn. (22)
14. Row 14: ch 1, dec, sc 18, dec. Turn. (20)
15. Row 15: ch 1, dec, sc 16, dec. Turn. (18)
16. Row 16: ch 1, dec, sc 14, dec. Turn. (16)
17. Row 17: ch 1, dec, sc 12, dec. Turn. (14)

Fasten off. Make a second identical piece for a fuller wing if you want a lined finish, or edge a single piece for a lighter result.

Wing Ribbing

To imitate the ridged feather-like structure in the image, surface crochet long lines from the lower inner base outward toward the upper edge using sl st. Work 5 to 7 evenly spaced ridges on each wing.

Edge the wing with one round of sc, adding 3 sc at the tip and lower point for smooth shaping.

Purse

Front and Back Circles Make 2

With pale cream yarn:

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: sc 3, inc around. (30)

Side Gusset

1. Ch 8, then work sc rows until strip fits around the purse circle edge, approximately 28 to 30 rows.

Sew strip between the two circles. Before fully closing, insert a small flat cardboard or plastic disc if you want the purse to hold its rounded shape.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Purse Strap

1. Ch 46 to 52, depending on where you want the purse to hang.
2. Work 1 row of sl st back along the chain.

Sew strap from purse top to shoulder line so the purse rests against the right side of the skirt front.

Purse Flower Embroidery

Embroider a central rose in dusty pink, surrounding leaves in sage, and small mint accents. Keep the embroidery dense but tiny.

Shoes Finishing

Using white or pearl thread, add tiny stitched dots or beads across each shoe top. The shoes in the image are neat, closed, and decorative, with a polished fairy-tale look.

Face Embroidery

The expression is soft and minimal. The eyes are embroidered, not oversized. Place them low on the face with generous forehead space.

• Eyes: embroider curved upper lashes between rounds 58 and 60, spaced about 8 stitches apart
• Lashes: add 2 or 3 short angled stitches at the outer edge of each eye
• Nose: optional tiny horizontal stitch between the eyes, 2 rounds lower
• Blush: soft pink applied lightly on the cheeks
• Mouth: omit for the most accurate look, or add one tiny nude-pink stitch very low and centered

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the head firmly to the neck if it is not already continuous. Attach the arms slightly below the neckline so they angle gently downward. Sew the hair cap in place, then add the curls in dense layers. Attach the hat after the hair is complete.

Sew the wings to the upper back, centered and angled upward. Attach the purse strap across one shoulder area. Add the bodice rose, overskirt roses, leaves, pearl beads, and any final trim. Shape the face with your fingers before final embroidery.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from direct sunlight
• Do not machine wash
• Keep bead and wire details away from very small children
• Store the doll upright to protect the hat brim and wings

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head centered and stable
• Arms even and symmetrical
• Skirt layers balanced front and back
• Lace trim attached smoothly
• Hair curls placed densely enough
• Hat flowers positioned on one side
• Wings evenly angled
• Purse resting naturally at the skirt front
• Eyes level and cheeks softly blushed

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Dust gently with a soft dry brush. For minor surface marks, dab carefully with a barely damp cloth and let the doll air dry fully. Do not soak the doll, and avoid strong detergents that could distort the stuffing, bead trim, embroidered face, or wing structure.

If storing long-term, wrap the doll loosely in clean tissue and place it in a breathable box. Do not crush the skirt, wings, or hat. Reshape curls, brim, and lace by hand after storage.

Pattern Notes for Achieving the Exact Look

To match the image as closely as possible, focus on proportion. The head should be large but not oversized compared with the skirt width. The waist must remain slim. The dress should flare dramatically, and the overskirt should sit above the lower scalloped hem rather than blending into it.

The hair should be full, gray, and glossy-looking, with long side curls that reach down across the bodice and skirt. Do not make the curls too tight or too short. The face should stay simple and sweet, with embroidered closed-style lash eyes and no bold mouth detail.

The hat is important. It should be soft mint, rounded at the crown, and wide enough to frame the face without covering the wings. The rose cluster should sit on one side, small and refined, not oversized. The purse should be circular, pale, and embroidered with a floral design.

The wings should be slightly larger than the upper body, with visible ribbed lines to imitate feather structure. Position them so they lift behind the shoulders and do not droop downward. The overall finish should feel elegant, airy, and storybook-inspired.

When complete, your doll should show the same visual balance as the image: mint fairy gown, white lace accents, gray flowing hair, wide floral hat, white wings, and a small embroidered purse, all arranged in a polished collectible style.