Crochet Tutorial: Leopard in a Teal Sunflower Romper – Free Crochet Pattern

This free crochet pattern guides you through making a sweet amigurumi leopard wearing a teal sunflower romper, yellow bee slippers, a tiny sunflower hair clip, and a small crossbody flower bag. The finished toy has a rounded head, white muzzle, green eyes, brown leopard spots, cream lace edging, and a short spotted tail for a playful garden-inspired look.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

Using the yarn and hook suggested below, the finished leopard measures about 11 inches from the top of the head to the bottom of the slippers. The body is soft and rounded, with a large head, short arms, sturdy legs, and a puffed teal romper shaped like the image.

• Height: approximately 11 inches
• Head width: approximately 4.5 inches
• Body width at romper: approximately 4 inches
• Bag size: approximately 1.5 inches wide
• Skill level: confident beginner to intermediate

Materials

• Sport weight or fine DK cotton yarn in tan for the leopard body
• White yarn for muzzle, hands, toe fronts, and slipper fronts
• Teal yarn for the romper and small hair bow leaves
• Cream yarn for lace trims and shoulder ruffles
• Brown yarn for spots, nose, mouth line, bag details, and sunflower centers
• Yellow yarn for sunflowers and slippers
• Small amounts of green yarn for embroidered leaves
• Small amount of black embroidery thread for eyelashes and ladybug details if making optional display bugs
• 2.25 mm crochet hook for the main toy
• 2.00 mm crochet hook for flowers, lace, and small details
• 8 mm green safety eyes or embroidered eyes
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Sewing pins
• Optional thin floral wire or pipe cleaner for shaping the tail

Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st: stitch
• sts: stitches
• FO: fasten off
• R: round or row

Gauge and Crochet Style

Work tightly so the stuffing does not show through the stitches. The sample look is dense and smooth, with small visible single crochet stitches. For best results, use a hook that creates firm fabric without making the piece stiff.

• 6 sc by 6 rounds should measure about 1 inch square.
• Most pieces are worked in continuous spiral rounds.
• Use a stitch marker at the first stitch of every round.
• Stuff gradually as you crochet, keeping the head round and the romper body plump.

Color Placement Notes

The leopard is mainly tan with brown spots scattered across the head, arms, legs, and tail. The muzzle and lower face are white, the romper is teal, and the trims are cream. The slippers are bright yellow with white oval toe fronts and tiny bee decorations.

For the most image-accurate finish, place the spots unevenly rather than in perfect rows. Use larger clusters on the forehead and cheeks, smaller dots on the arms and legs, and a few medium spots on the tail.

Head

Use tan yarn and the 2.25 mm hook. The head is large, rounded, and slightly wider at the cheeks. Stuff firmly but keep the front smooth for the muzzle and eyes.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat 6 times. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat 6 times. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat 6 times. (30)
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat 6 times. (36)
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat 6 times. (42)
8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat 6 times. (48)
9. R9: sc 7, inc, repeat 6 times. (54)
10. R10: sc 8, inc, repeat 6 times. (60)
11. R11-R20: sc around for 10 rounds. (60)
12. R21: sc 8, dec, repeat 6 times. (54)
13. R22: sc 7, dec, repeat 6 times. (48)
14. R23: sc 6, dec, repeat 6 times. (42)
15. R24: sc 5, dec, repeat 6 times. (36)

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Insert the safety eyes between R16 and R17, about 9 stitches apart. The eyes should sit just above the white muzzle area. If you prefer embroidered eyes, wait until the muzzle is sewn on before stitching the eyes.

1. R25: sc 4, dec, repeat 6 times. (30)
2. R26: sc 3, dec, repeat 6 times. (24)
3. R27: sc 2, dec, repeat 6 times. (18)

Stuff the head firmly, especially around the cheeks and crown. Do not close yet if you want to add extra stuffing after attaching the neck. FO with a long tail for sewing.

White Muzzle

The muzzle is made as two connected rounded pads, creating the soft white cheek shape seen in the image. Use white yarn and the 2.25 mm hook.

Left Muzzle Pad

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat 6 times. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat 6 times. (24)
5. R5: sc around. (24)

FO the first pad. Make the second pad the same way, but do not fasten off.

Join the Muzzle Pads

1. R6: With the second pad still on the hook, sc 12 around the second pad, sc 24 around the first pad, then sc 12 on the remaining stitches of the second pad. (48)
2. R7: sc 10, dec, sc 22, dec, sc 12. (46)
3. R8: sc around. (46)

FO with a long sewing tail. Lightly stuff the muzzle. Sew it onto the lower front of the head, centered under the eyes, spanning about R16 to R23. The top edge should slightly touch the lower part of the eyes.

Nose, Mouth, and Tiny Teeth

Use brown yarn for the nose. Embroider a small triangular nose at the center top of the muzzle. The nose should point downward and sit between the two muzzle pads.

• Make 6 horizontal stitches across the center top of the muzzle.
• Make 3 shorter stitches beneath them to form a triangle.
• Bring the yarn down from the nose point and stitch one straight vertical line about 4 rounds long.
• Add a small curved mouth line to each side if desired.

For the small white teeth, use white yarn or embroidery thread. Sew two short vertical stitches below the mouth line, each about 2 stitches long. Keep them close together so they look like tiny front teeth.

Ears

Make two ears using tan yarn. The ears are rounded and placed on the upper sides of the head. Add a smaller pale inner ear patch before sewing them on.

Outer Ear, Make 2

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat 6 times. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat 6 times. (24)
5. R5-R6: sc around. (24)
6. R7: sc 2, dec, repeat 6 times. (18)

Flatten the ear. Do not stuff. FO with a long tail.

Inner Ear, Make 2

Use cream or very pale peach yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat 6 times. (18)

FO and sew one inner ear patch onto each outer ear. Sew the ears to the head between R8 and R15, about 13 stitches apart across the top. Angle them slightly outward.

Body Base Under the Romper

The body is shorter than the head and becomes rounded at the hips. Start with tan yarn, then change to teal to make the romper directly onto the body. Use the 2.25 mm hook.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR with tan. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat 6 times. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat 6 times. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat 6 times. (30)
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat 6 times. (36)
7. R7-R8: sc around with tan. (36)
8. R9: Change to teal, sc around. (36)
9. R10: sc 5, inc, repeat 6 times. (42)
10. R11-R17: sc around. (42)
11. R18: sc 6, inc, repeat 6 times. (48)
12. R19-R23: sc around. (48)
13. R24: sc 6, dec, repeat 6 times. (42)
14. R25: sc 5, dec, repeat 6 times. (36)
15. R26: sc 4, dec, repeat 6 times. (30)
16. R27: sc 3, dec, repeat 6 times. (24)
17. R28: sc 2, dec, repeat 6 times. (18)

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Stuff the body firmly. FO with a long tail. The neck opening should remain slightly flat so the head sits securely and faces upward.

Romper Leg Openings

The image shows a teal romper with puffy short legs. The body base creates the main bubble shape. Now add two leg openings at the lower front using teal yarn.

Hold the body upside down. Mark two oval openings on the lower teal area, each about 12 stitches around and separated by 4 stitches at the center front and center back.

Left Romper Cuff

1. Join teal yarn at the lower left side of the body around R22.
2. R1: sc evenly around a 12-stitch oval opening. (12)
3. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat 6 times. (18)
4. R3-R5: sc around. (18)
5. R6: Change to cream, sc around in FLO. (18)

Right Romper Cuff

Repeat the same steps for the second opening. Keep both cuffs equal in length so the shorts look balanced.

Cream Lace Trim for Romper Legs

Use cream yarn and the 2.00 mm hook. Work into the front loops left from the cream cuff round, or sew the lace directly onto the cuff edge.

1. Join cream yarn to the front of one leg cuff.
2. Ch 1, sc in first st.
3. Skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sc in next st.
4. Repeat the shell pattern around the cuff.
5. Sl st to the first sc and FO.

Repeat on the second cuff. The lace should sit like small cream scallops around the bottom of the teal shorts.

Upper Romper Bib

The teal upper bib sits across the chest and reaches just below the neck. It has a cream lace edge and small sunflower embroidery across the front.

1. With teal yarn, ch 17.
2. Row 1: sc in the second ch from hook and across. (16)
3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 14, inc. (18)
4. Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc across. (18)
5. Row 4: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 16, inc. (20)
6. Row 5-R8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (20)
7. Row 9: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 16, dec. (18)

FO with a long tail. Sew the bib to the front of the body from R9 to R17. The top edge should sit under the neck, and the lower edge should overlap the rounded romper body.

Cream Waist Lace

The image has a clear cream lace line around the waist, dividing the upper bib from the puffy shorts. Use cream yarn and the 2.00 mm hook.

1. Ch 46, or chain enough to wrap around the body at the waist.
2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across.
3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in first st, skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sc in next st, repeat across.

Wrap the lace around the waist and sew in place. The shell edge should point downward over the teal shorts.

Shoulder Ruffles

The romper has small cream ruffles at the shoulders. Make two matching ruffle strips and sew them at the top outer corners of the bib.

1. With cream yarn, ch 13.
2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across. (12)
3. Row 2: ch 2, turn, 3 dc in each st across. (36)
4. FO with a long tail.

Sew one ruffle over each shoulder area, starting beside the neck and ending at the top of the arm. The ruffles should sit like soft cap sleeves.

Arms, Make 2

The arms are tan with white hands. Add brown spots after crocheting or use color changes for a few built-in spots. The arms hang at the sides of the romper.

1. R1: With white yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3-R4: sc around. (12)
4. R5: sc 2, dec, repeat 3 times. (9)
5. R6: Change to tan, sc around. (9)
6. R7-R18: sc around for 12 rounds. (9)

Stuff the hand lightly and the upper arm very lightly. Flatten the top of the arm and crochet through both layers with 4 sc to close. FO with a long sewing tail.

Sew the arms to the body just under the shoulder ruffles, around R9 of the body. Angle them slightly downward so the white hands rest beside the teal romper.

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Legs, Make 2

The legs are tan and extend from the romper leg openings. They are narrow, slightly curved, and covered with scattered brown spots. The slippers are made separately and sewn over the feet.

1. R1: With tan yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 3, inc, repeat 3 times. (15)
4. R4-R16: sc around. (15)
5. R17: sc 3, dec, repeat 3 times. (12)
6. R18-R20: sc around. (12)

Stuff each leg firmly enough to hold its shape but not so hard that it becomes stiff. FO with a long tail. Sew one leg into each romper leg opening. The legs should angle slightly outward, matching the relaxed seated pose in the image.

Feet Base, Make 2

The feet are mostly hidden inside yellow slippers, but a shaped base helps the slippers look rounded and cute. Use white yarn for the toe front and tan yarn for the back foot area.

1. R1: With white yarn, ch 7.
2. R2: sc in second ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, continue on opposite side, sc 4, inc in last st. (14)
3. R3: inc, sc 4, inc in next 3 sts, sc 4, inc in next 2 sts. (20)
4. R4: sc around. (20)
5. R5: Change to tan, BLO sc around. (20)
6. R6-R7: sc around. (20)
7. R8: sc 3, dec, repeat 4 times. (16)

Stuff lightly. Sew each foot to the end of one leg, keeping the white toe section facing forward.

Yellow Slippers, Make 2

The slippers are bright yellow and rounded, with a white toe patch showing at the front. They sit over the feet like soft garden clogs.

1. R1: With yellow yarn, ch 8.
2. R2: sc in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side, sc 5, inc in last st. (16)
3. R3: inc, sc 5, inc in next 3 sts, sc 5, inc in next 2 sts. (22)
4. R4: sc 1, inc, sc 6, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 6, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. (27)
5. R5: BLO sc around. (27)
6. R6-R7: sc around. (27)
7. R8: sc 6, dec 5 times, sc 11. (22)
8. R9: sc 5, dec 4 times, sc 9. (18)

FO with a long tail. Slide each slipper over the white toe foot base and sew around the back edge. Leave the white oval toe area visible at the front.

White Slipper Toe Lines

Use brown embroidery thread or thin brown yarn. Stitch 3 vertical curved lines across each white toe front. Add one short horizontal stitch near the lower edge to mimic the segmented look in the image.

Tiny Bees for Slippers, Make 2

Use yellow yarn and black thread. The bees are very small, so keep the stitches tight.

1. With yellow yarn, 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (10)
3. R3: sc around. (10)
4. R4: dec around. (5)

FO and close. Embroider two black stripes and tiny eyes. For wings, use white yarn and make ch 3, sl st into the same place twice on each bee. Sew one bee to the outer side of each slipper.

Tail

The tail is short, tan, slightly curved, and spotted. It sticks out from the back left side of the romper.

1. R1: With tan yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat 3 times. (9)
3. R3-R18: sc around. (9)
4. R19: sc 1, dec, repeat 3 times. (6)

Lightly stuff as you go. Insert a thin pipe cleaner if you want the tail to hold a small curve. FO with a long tail. Sew to the back of the body around R20, slightly to the left side.

Leopard Spots

The brown spots are essential for matching the image. They are irregular, scattered, and placed more heavily on the head and limbs. You can crochet tiny spots and sew them on, embroider them, or combine both methods.

Small Spot

1. With brown yarn, 5 sc in MR.
2. Sl st to first sc and FO.

Medium Spot

1. With brown yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. Sl st to first sc and FO.

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Irregular Cluster Spot

1. With brown yarn, ch 4.
2. Sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch.
3. Work on the opposite side of the chain, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch.
4. Sl st to close and FO.

Suggested Spot Placement

• Place 3 medium spots down the center forehead.
• Place 2 small spots above the right eye and 2 above the left eye.
• Place 3 irregular spots on each cheek area, avoiding the white muzzle.
• Place 4 to 5 spots on each arm.
• Place 4 to 6 spots on each leg.
• Place 3 small spots on the tail.
• Keep the white muzzle and white hands clean without spots.

Sew the spots flat using matching brown yarn. Do not overstuff or raise them too much. The spots should look like soft markings worked into the leopard’s fur.

Facial Embroidery

Use black embroidery thread for lashes and eye outlines. The leopard in the image has large green eyes with delicate lashes and a calm expression.

• Stitch one short black line above each eye for the upper eyelid.
• Add 2 small lashes at the outer corner of each eye.
• Use white thread to add a tiny highlight stitch beside each safety eye if desired.
• Use brown yarn for the nose and center mouth line.
• Keep all facial stitches symmetrical and gentle.

Sunflower Hair Clip

The small sunflower sits on top of the head, slightly to one side. It has a brown center, yellow petals, and two teal leaf shapes behind it.

Sunflower Center

1. With brown yarn and 2.00 mm hook, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. Sl st to close.

Yellow Petals

1. Join yellow yarn to any stitch of the brown center.
2. Ch 4, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch.
3. Sl st into the next stitch of the brown center.
4. Repeat around until you have 12 petals.
5. FO and weave in ends.

Teal Leaves, Make 2

1. With teal yarn, ch 6.
2. Sc in second ch from hook, hdc, dc, hdc, sc.
3. Ch 1, work on opposite side, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc.
4. Sl st to close and FO.

Sew the two teal leaves behind the sunflower. Sew the finished flower to the top left side of the head, near R6 to R8. It should sit above one ear, like the accessory in the image.

Crossbody Strap

The bag strap is a thin cream cord running diagonally from one shoulder to the opposite hip. Use cream yarn and the 2.00 mm hook.

1. Ch 70 for an 11-inch doll, or chain enough to cross from the right shoulder to the left hip.
2. Row 1: sl st in second ch from hook and across for a firm narrow cord.
3. FO with tails for sewing.

Pin the strap diagonally across the front of the body. Sew one end near the upper right shoulder and the other end under the small bag at the left hip. Keep it flat and slightly snug.

Small Flower Bag

The little tan bag hangs at the leopard’s side. It is rounded with a sunflower and blue-white flower decoration on the front.

Bag Front

1. With tan yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat 6 times. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat 6 times. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat 6 times. (30)
6. FO and set aside.

Bag Back

Make a second circle the same way, but do not fasten off after R5.

Join Bag

1. Hold front and back wrong sides together.
2. Sc through both layers around 22 stitches, leaving the top 8 stitches open.
3. Ch 1 and turn.
4. Work 8 sc across the open top edge to neaten the opening.
5. FO and weave in ends.

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Do not stuff the bag heavily. Add only a pinch of fiberfill if you want a softly rounded shape.

Bag Sunflower

1. With brown yarn, 5 sc in MR, sl st to close.
2. Join yellow yarn, ch 3, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st into center.
3. Repeat until you have 8 small petals.

Sew the sunflower on the lower right side of the bag front.

Small White Flower on Bag

1. With brown yarn, 5 sc in MR, sl st to close.
2. Join white yarn.
3. Ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, ch 3, sl st in same stitch.
4. Repeat in each stitch around for 5 petals.

Sew this flower on the lower left side of the bag. Embroider two small green leaves beside the flowers using straight stitches.

Sew the bag to the lower left front of the romper, over the end of the crossbody strap. The bag should sit at hip level and slightly overlap the teal shorts.

Romper Front Embroidery

The teal bib has a sunflower motif in the center with small yellow flowers and green leaves. Keep the embroidery small so it does not overwhelm the romper.

• Use yellow yarn to make one small sunflower at the center of the bib.
• Use brown yarn for the flower center with 5 tiny straight stitches.
• Add 2 small yellow dots or lazy daisy flowers on each side.
• Use green yarn for 2 leaves on each side of the center flower.
• Keep all stitches close to the surface and do not pull too tightly.

Optional Ladybug Display Decorations

The image includes little red ladybugs nearby. They are optional display pieces and are not attached to the leopard. Make them if you want a full garden scene.

Ladybug Body

1. With red yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat 6 times. (18)
4. R4-R5: sc around. (18)
5. R6: sc 1, dec, repeat 6 times. (12)

Stuff lightly and FO. Use black yarn to make a small head section by stitching over one end. Embroider a black center line and 4 to 6 black dots on the red back.

Assembly Order

Use sewing pins before attaching each piece permanently. The image has a relaxed, seated appearance, so the arms and legs should not be stiffly straight.

1. Sew the white muzzle to the lower front of the head.
2. Add the nose, mouth line, tiny teeth, eyelashes, and eye details.
3. Sew both ears to the sides of the head.
4. Sew brown leopard spots across the head, arms, legs, and tail.
5. Sew the head to the tan neck opening of the body.
6. Sew arms below the shoulder ruffles.
7. Sew legs into the romper leg openings.
8. Sew feet to the legs and secure the slippers around the feet.
9. Sew the tail to the back left side.
10. Add the waist lace, leg lace, and shoulder ruffles.
11. Sew the sunflower hair clip to the head.
12. Attach the crossbody strap and flower bag.
13. Add final romper embroidery and slipper bees.

Detailed Sewing Guidance

When sewing the head to the body, pass the needle through the head opening and body opening several times. The head is large, so it needs a strong connection. Add extra stitches at the front and back of the neck to stop wobbling.

The arms should be sewn with the white hands facing forward. Place the upper arm edge under the cream shoulder ruffle so the seam is hidden. Sew through the arm and body at least twice for durability.

The legs should sit below the romper cuffs and angle outward. Sew around each leg opening with small tight stitches. Check that the leopard can sit naturally before securing the final stitches.

The tail should sit low enough to show beside the romper but not so low that it interferes with sitting. Curve it gently toward the side and add spots after attaching it if needed.

Shaping Tips

• Stuff the cheeks firmly so the muzzle stays rounded.
• Use less stuffing in the arms so they hang softly.
• Stuff the body more at the lower romper area to create the puffy shorts shape.
• Pin the bag and strap before sewing to keep the diagonal line clean.
• Use small, neat stitches for the spots so they look like part of the leopard’s fur.

Beginner-Friendly Notes

If you are new to amigurumi, take your time with the color changes and small accessories. The main leopard shape is made from simple single crochet rounds. The detailed look comes from careful placement of the muzzle, spots, flowers, lace, and embroidered details.

Count every round carefully. The teal romper must stay symmetrical because the lace and bib are placed on top of it. If your stitch count changes slightly, adjust the lace length by adding or removing one shell repeat.

For the face, pin everything first. A difference of one round can change the expression. The eyes should sit evenly above the muzzle, and the nose should be centered between the two white muzzle pads.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the face from the front before tying off the embroidery threads. The leopard should have a soft, friendly expression with balanced green eyes, a centered brown nose, tiny white teeth, and gentle black lashes.

• Brush away loose fibers with your fingers.
• Check that both ears are sewn at the same height.
• Make sure the sunflower clip sits slightly to one side.
• Secure the bag strap at the shoulder and hip.
• Hide all yarn tails inside the body with a yarn needle.

Care Notes

This amigurumi is best cleaned gently by hand. Because it includes embroidered details, small flowers, and sewn-on accessories, avoid machine washing whenever possible.

• Spot clean with cool water and mild soap.
• Do not twist or wring the toy.
• Press gently with a towel to remove extra moisture.
• Air dry flat in a shaded place.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is firmly attached and does not wobble.
• The muzzle is centered under the eyes.
• Both ears are even and slightly angled outward.
• The teal romper has cream lace at the waist, legs, and shoulders.
• The leopard spots are scattered naturally across the tan areas.
• The yellow slippers show white toe fronts and tiny bee decorations.
• The crossbody bag sits at the hip with flower details facing forward.
• The sunflower hair clip is secure on the head.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the leopard in a dry, clean place away from direct sunlight. Strong sunlight can fade the teal romper, yellow slippers, and brown spots over time.

If the toy becomes dusty, use a soft dry cloth or a clean makeup brush to gently remove dust from the face, flowers, lace, and bag. Avoid pulling on the small petals or embroidered leaves.

For long-term storage, wrap the toy loosely in acid-free tissue paper or place it in a breathable cotton bag. Do not compress it under heavy items, because the head, muzzle, slippers, and bag may lose their shape.

After cleaning, reshape the head, romper, slippers, and tail with your fingers while the fibers are still slightly damp. Let the toy dry completely before storing or displaying it.