Crochet Tutorial: Sylvester the Cat in Striped Overalls – Free Crochet Pattern.

This free crochet pattern guides you through making a black-and-white tuxedo cat doll with a bright red nose, big white cheeks, tall ears, yellow head bow, red shirt, blue-and-white striped overalls, blue shoes, white paws, and matching handmade accessories. The full set includes the striped pom-pom beanie, red cat-face shoulder bag, red yarn ball, and tiny beige mouse toy shown beside the doll.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

• Main doll: about 15–17 inches tall when made with DK yarn and a 2.75 mm hook.
• Beanie: about 3.5 inches wide, designed as a loose accessory.
• Red bag: about 2.5 inches wide with a long handle.
• Mouse: about 2.75 inches long, not including tail.
• Yarn ball: about 1.5 inches wide with a loose crochet strand.

Skill Level

This is an intermediate amigurumi pattern because it uses shaped pieces, color changes, small accessories, sewing, embroidery, and layered facial details. A confident beginner can also follow it slowly because every part is written round by round.

Materials

• DK or light worsted cotton yarn in black, white, red, denim blue, cream, yellow, beige, light pink, pale lavender, and a tiny amount of dark green.
• 2.75 mm crochet hook for the doll and accessories.
• 2.25 mm crochet hook for small details such as eyes, bow, buttons, and mouse ears.
• Polyester fiberfill.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Black embroidery thread or thin black yarn for whiskers, mouth lines, bag face, and mouse details.
• Two small wooden-look buttons for the overall straps and two tiny buttons for the shoes, or crochet buttons if preferred.
• Scissors and pins for positioning.

Abbreviations in US Terms

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st/sts: stitch/stitches
• FO: fasten off

Gauge and Texture Notes

Use a tight amigurumi tension so no stuffing shows through the stitches. The sample look is dense, rounded, and firm, with visible but neat single crochet texture. If your stitches are loose, go down one hook size.

The doll should be stuffed firmly in the head, cheeks, nose, shoes, and body. The arms and legs should be stuffed medium-firm so they remain flexible enough to lie naturally like the photographed toy.

Color Placement Overview

• The head base is black with a large white cheek-and-muzzle structure added on top.
• The nose is a raised red round piece centered on the face.
• The ears are black outside with pale lavender inner ear panels.
• The body wears a red short-sleeve shirt underneath blue-and-white striped overalls.
• The arms are black with red sleeve caps and white mitten paws.
• The legs are mostly covered by the striped overalls, with black ankles, white cuffs, and blue shoes.
• The yellow bow sits centered between the ears.

Main Head

Use black yarn. Work in continuous rounds. Stuff as you go, especially after Round 16. The head should be round and slightly large compared with the body.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: (sc 1, inc) around. (18)
4. R4: (sc 2, inc) around. (24)
5. R5: (sc 3, inc) around. (30)
6. R6: (sc 4, inc) around. (36)
7. R7: (sc 5, inc) around. (42)
8. R8: (sc 6, inc) around. (48)
9. R9: (sc 7, inc) around. (54)
10. R10: (sc 8, inc) around. (60)
11. R11–R18: sc around. (60)
12. R19: (sc 8, dec) around. (54)
13. R20: (sc 7, dec) around. (48)
14. R21: (sc 6, dec) around. (42)
15. R22: (sc 5, dec) around. (36)
16. R23: (sc 4, dec) around. (30)
17. R24: (sc 3, dec) around. (24)
18. R25: (sc 2, dec) around. (18)
19. R26: (sc 1, dec) around. (12)

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Finish stuffing firmly. FO, leaving a long tail. Close the final hole by weaving through the front loops of the last 12 stitches and pulling tight. The slightly flattened closing point will become the lower back of the head.

White Cheek Panels

Make two. Use white yarn. These rounded cheek pieces create the large fluffy white sides of the face. They should sit from the lower eye area down toward the chin.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: (sc 1, inc) around. (18)
4. R4: (sc 2, inc) around. (24)
5. R5: (sc 3, inc) around. (30)
6. R6–R8: sc around. (30)
7. R9: (sc 3, dec) around. (24)
8. R10: (sc 2, dec) around. (18)

Stuff lightly so each cheek is puffy but still easy to sew flat against the head. FO with a long tail. Pin one cheek to the lower left front of the head and the other to the lower right front. Leave a small vertical space between them for the red nose and center muzzle.

Center White Muzzle Bridge

Use white yarn. This smaller oval fills the center between the two cheeks and gives the face the soft white muzzle shape visible under the red nose.

1. Ch 7.
2. R1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch. Work on other side of chain: sc 4, inc in last st. (14)
3. R2: inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc 2 times. (20)
4. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 5, (sc 1, inc) 3 times, sc 5, (sc 1, inc) 2 times. (26)
5. R4: sc around. (26)

FO with a long tail. Add a thin layer of stuffing under the piece as you sew. Place it vertically between the cheeks, with the top tucked slightly under the red nose.

Red Nose

Use red yarn. The nose is large, round, and raised. It should sit in the center of the face, overlapping the upper inner edges of both cheeks.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: (sc 1, inc) around. (18)
4. R4: (sc 2, inc) around. (24)
5. R5–R6: sc around. (24)
6. R7: (sc 2, dec) around. (18)

Stuff firmly. FO with a long tail. Sew the nose to the center front of the face. Keep it round and dome-like. The top of the nose should be slightly below the eye line, and the bottom should touch the center muzzle bridge.

Eyes

Make two white eye ovals with tiny black pupils and green highlights. The eyes are tall, narrow ovals placed close together above the red nose.

White Eye Ovals

Make two with white yarn and the smaller hook.

1. Ch 8.
2. R1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch. Work on other side: sc 5, inc in last st. (16)
3. R2: inc, sc 5, inc 3 times, sc 5, inc 2 times. (22)
4. R3: sc around. (22)

FO, leaving a sewing tail. Do not stuff. Sew the eyes upright on the black face, with the lower edge slightly tucked behind the red nose.

Black Pupils

Make two with black yarn.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. R2: inc around. (10)

FO and sew one pupil on each white eye oval, angled slightly inward. Add one tiny vertical stitch of dark green or pale gray beside each pupil to copy the shiny look.

Ears

Make two outer ears in black and two inner panels in pale lavender. The ears are tall, pointed, and placed high on the head at a slight outward angle.

Outer Ear

Use black yarn. Make two.

1. R1: 4 sc in MR. (4)
2. R2: (sc 1, inc) twice. (6)
3. R3: sc around. (6)
4. R4: (sc 2, inc) twice. (8)
5. R5: sc around. (8)
6. R6: (sc 3, inc) twice. (10)
7. R7: sc around. (10)
8. R8: (sc 4, inc) twice. (12)
9. R9: sc around. (12)
10. R10: (sc 5, inc) twice. (14)
11. R11: sc around. (14)

Flatten the ear lightly. Do not overstuff. FO with a long tail.

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Inner Ear Panel

Use pale lavender yarn. Make two.

1. Ch 5.
2. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, ch 1, turn. (4)
3. Row 2: dec, sc 2, ch 1, turn. (3)
4. Row 3: dec, sc 1, ch 1, turn. (2)
5. Row 4: dec. (1)

FO. Sew each inner panel to the front of a black ear. Sew ears to the top sides of the head, between Rounds 5 and 11, leaning outward. The inner panels should face forward.

Yellow Bow

The bow sits centered between the ears. Use yellow yarn and the smaller hook.

1. Ch 11.
2. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 10, ch 1, turn. (10)
3. Rows 2–5: sc 10, ch 1, turn. (10)
4. FO and weave in the end.
5. Wrap yellow yarn tightly around the center 8–10 times to pinch the rectangle into a bow.
6. Tie firmly at the back and leave a long tail for sewing.

Sew the bow flat across the top of the head, slightly forward between the two ears.

Body

The body is mostly hidden by the overalls, but it needs the correct red shirt shape at the upper torso. Start with black yarn for the lower body, then change to red for the shirt area.

1. R1: With black, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: (sc 1, inc) around. (18)
4. R4: (sc 2, inc) around. (24)
5. R5: (sc 3, inc) around. (30)
6. R6: (sc 4, inc) around. (36)
7. R7–R10: sc around. (36)
8. R11: Change to red, sc around. (36)
9. R12–R17: sc around. (36)
10. R18: (sc 4, dec) around. (30)
11. R19: sc around. (30)
12. R20: (sc 3, dec) around. (24)
13. R21: sc around. (24)
14. R22: (sc 2, dec) around. (18)

Stuff firmly. FO with a long tail for sewing the head. The red area should show above the overall bib as the short-sleeve shirt.

Red Sleeve Caps

Make two red sleeve caps. These sit at the top of each black arm and create the short shirt sleeves.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: (sc 1, inc) around. (18)
4. R4–R5: sc around. (18)

FO with a long tail. Slide one sleeve cap over the top of each arm before sewing the arm to the body, or sew it directly around the shoulder area.

Arms

Make two. Start with white for the mitten paw, then change to black for the arm. The paws are rounded and oval, while the black arms are long and slim.

1. R1: With white, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: (sc 1, inc) around. (18)
4. R4–R6: sc around. (18)
5. R7: (sc 1, dec) around. (12)
6. R8: sc around. (12)
7. R9: Change to black, BLO sc around. (12)
8. R10–R23: sc around. (12)

Stuff the white paw firmly and the black arm lightly. Flatten the top opening and sc 6 across both layers to close. FO with a long tail. Add three shallow embroidered white finger lines on each paw if desired.

Legs

Make two black legs. They will sit inside the striped overall legs, with only the lower black ankle area showing above the shoes.

1. R1: With black, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: (sc 1, inc) around. (18)
4. R4–R18: sc around. (18)

Stuff medium-firm. Flatten the top of each leg and sc 9 across to close. Leave a long tail for sewing to the bottom of the body.

White Ankle Cuffs

Make two. These small white cuffs peek out above the blue shoes.

1. Ch 19.
2. Join with sl st to form a ring, being careful not to twist.
3. R1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around. (18)
4. R2: sc around. (18)

FO and sew one cuff around the lower part of each black leg, just above the shoe opening.

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Blue Shoes

Make two. Use denim blue yarn with a white sole and white oval toe patch. The shoes should look rounded, soft, and oversized compared with the slim legs.

Shoe Base

1. With white, ch 9.
2. R1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch. Work on other side: sc 6, inc. (18)
3. R2: inc, sc 6, inc 3 times, sc 6, inc 2 times. (24)
4. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 7, (sc 1, inc) 3 times, sc 7, (sc 1, inc) 2 times. (30)
5. R4: Change to denim blue, BLO sc around. (30)
6. R5–R6: sc around. (30)
7. R7: sc 9, dec 6 times, sc 9. (24)
8. R8: sc 8, dec 4 times, sc 8. (20)
9. R9–R10: sc around. (20)

Stuff the toe and foot firmly. Insert the black leg into the shoe opening and sew around securely.

White Toe Patch

Make two with white yarn.

1. Ch 6.
2. R1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch. Work other side: sc 3, inc. (12)
3. R2: inc, sc 3, inc 3 times, sc 3, inc 2 times. (18)

FO and sew one patch to the front top of each shoe. Add a tiny button on the outer side of each shoe to match the photographed button detail.

Striped Overalls

The overalls are the most visible clothing detail. They are worked in alternating denim blue and white stripes. Keep the stripe changes neat at the back. Work the overall legs separately, then join them into the pants section and build the bib upward.

Overall Leg One

Use denim blue for the cuff.

1. Ch 7.
2. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, ch 1, turn. (6)
3. Rows 2–28: BLO sc 6, ch 1, turn. (6)
4. Join the short ends with sl st to form a ribbed cuff.
5. Work 28 sc evenly around the top edge of the cuff. (28)
6. R1: With denim blue, sc around. (28)
7. R2: Change to white, sc around. (28)
8. R3: Change to denim blue, sc around. (28)
9. R4: Change to white, sc around. (28)
10. R5–R16: Continue alternating 1 round denim blue and 1 round white. (28)

FO after Leg One and set aside.

Overall Leg Two

Repeat the same instructions as Leg One, but do not fasten off after R16. Continue with the joining round.

Join Overall Legs

1. With the working loop still on Leg Two, ch 4.
2. Sc into any stitch of Leg One and sc around Leg One. (28)
3. Sc in each of the 4 joining chains. (4)
4. Sc around Leg Two. (28)
5. Sc in the opposite side of the 4 joining chains. (4)

Total stitch count is 64. Place the beginning marker at the center back.

Pants and Waist

1. R1: Continue stripe color sequence, sc around. (64)
2. R2–R9: Alternate denim blue and white each round, sc around. (64)
3. R10: With denim blue, (sc 14, dec) around. (60)
4. R11: With white, sc around. (60)
5. R12: With denim blue, (sc 8, dec) around. (54)
6. R13: With white, sc around. (54)
7. R14: With denim blue, (sc 7, dec) around. (48)

FO and weave in the tail. Slide the overalls onto the body and legs before final assembly if you want a snug fit. The blue ribbed cuffs should sit just above the shoes.

Front Bib

Attach denim blue yarn to the front center waist of the overalls. The bib is worked in rows across 24 front stitches.

1. Row 1: Sc 24 across the front, ch 1, turn. (24)
2. Row 2: Change to white, sc 24, ch 1, turn. (24)
3. Row 3: Denim blue, sc 24, ch 1, turn. (24)
4. Row 4: White, sc 24, ch 1, turn. (24)
5. Row 5: Denim blue, sc 24, ch 1, turn. (24)
6. Row 6: White, sc 24, ch 1, turn. (24)
7. Row 7: Denim blue, sc 24. (24)

FO and weave in ends. Sew the lower and side edges of the bib lightly to the red shirt so it sits flat.

Overall Straps

Make two straps with denim blue yarn.

1. Ch 5.
2. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, ch 1, turn. (4)
3. Rows 2–30: sc 4, ch 1, turn. (4)

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FO with long tails. Sew one end of each strap to the back waist. Bring the straps over the shoulders and sew them to the top corners of the front bib. Add one small button at each front strap connection.

Tail

The tail is black with a white tip. It lies off to one side, just like the photo.

1. R1: With white, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: (sc 1, inc) around. (9)
3. R3–R5: sc around. (9)
4. R6: Change to black, sc around. (9)
5. R7–R22: sc around. (9)

Stuff very lightly so the tail bends naturally. FO with a long tail. Sew to the lower back of the body so it angles out toward the left side.

Whiskers and Face Embroidery

Use black embroidery thread or very thin black yarn. Add three whiskers on each side, stitched through the white cheek panels. Keep them long, straight, and slightly angled.

• Upper whisker: begins beside the nose and angles upward.
• Middle whisker: runs almost straight outward.
• Lower whisker: angles slightly downward.
• Add a tiny vertical mouth line below the red nose if desired, but keep it subtle.

Striped Pom-Pom Beanie

The small beanie is made separately and sits beside the doll in the photo. It has a denim blue ribbed brim, cream crown, blue and red stripes, and a multicolor pom-pom.

Ribbed Brim

1. With denim blue, ch 8.
2. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 7, ch 1, turn. (7)
3. Rows 2–36: BLO sc 7, ch 1, turn. (7)
4. Join the short ends with sl st to form a ring.

Hat Crown

1. R1: Work 36 sc evenly around the top edge of the brim with cream yarn. (36)
2. R2: Cream, sc around. (36)
3. R3: Denim blue, sc around. (36)
4. R4: White, sc around. (36)
5. R5: Red, sc around. (36)
6. R6: Cream, sc around. (36)
7. R7: Denim blue, (sc 4, dec) around. (30)
8. R8: Cream, sc around. (30)
9. R9: Cream, (sc 3, dec) around. (24)
10. R10: Denim blue, (sc 2, dec) around. (18)
11. R11: Cream, (sc 1, dec) around. (12)
12. R12: Red, dec around. (6)

FO, close the top, and attach a small pom-pom made from cream, blue, and red yarn. Trim the pom-pom into a round shape.

Red Cat-Face Shoulder Bag

The red bag is a small square tote with a cream scalloped top, red handle, black eyes, black whiskers, and a white muzzle patch.

Bag Body

Make two red squares.

1. Ch 13.
2. Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 12, ch 1, turn. (12)
3. Rows 2–12: sc 12, ch 1, turn. (12)

FO the first square. On the second square, do not fasten off. Hold both squares together and sc around three sides through both layers. Leave the top open.

Cream Top Edge

Attach cream yarn to the top opening.

1. R1: Sc evenly around the top opening. Join with sl st.
2. R2: Ch 1, repeat (sc 1, hdc 1, dc 1, hdc 1, sc 1) around to form a soft scalloped edge.

Bag Handle

1. With red yarn, ch 46.
2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each ch across.

Sew each end of the handle to the inside top corners of the bag. For a firmer handle, make two identical chains and sew them together.

Bag Face

• With white yarn, make a small oval muzzle: ch 5, sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, sc 2 on other side, inc. FO and sew to center front.
• Embroider two black eyes above the muzzle.
• Embroider a small black nose and short mouth line on the white muzzle.
• Add three black whisker stitches on each side.

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Red Yarn Ball

Use red yarn. This piece should look like a tiny ball of yarn with a loose strand curling beside it.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: (sc 1, inc) around. (18)
4. R4–R6: sc around. (18)
5. R7: (sc 1, dec) around. (12)
6. R8: dec around. (6)

Stuff firmly. FO and close. Embroider curved red lines over the surface in different directions to imitate wrapped yarn. For the loose strand, ch 28, FO, and sew one end to the ball. Let the chain curl naturally.

Tiny Beige Mouse

The mouse is beige with pink ears, a small pointed nose, black bead-like eyes, and a curved tail. Work the body from nose to back.

Mouse Body

1. R1: With beige, 4 sc in MR. (4)
2. R2: (sc 1, inc) twice. (6)
3. R3: (sc 2, inc) twice. (8)
4. R4: (sc 3, inc) twice. (10)
5. R5: (sc 4, inc) twice. (12)
6. R6: (sc 5, inc) twice. (14)
7. R7–R10: sc around. (14)
8. R11: (sc 5, dec) twice. (12)
9. R12: (sc 4, dec) twice. (10)
10. R13: dec around. (5)

Stuff lightly. FO and close. The narrow starting end is the nose.

Mouse Ears

Make two with light pink yarn.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. R2: inc around. (10)

FO. Sew ears near the top front of the mouse body, slightly behind the pointed nose.

Mouse Tail and Face

• For the tail, ch 16 with beige or pale pink yarn, FO, and sew to the back of the mouse.
• Embroider two tiny black eyes on the sides of the nose area.
• Embroider a small black nose at the pointed tip.
• Add two short whisker stitches on each side if desired.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Sew the body to the head. The head should be large and slightly tilted back, giving the doll a playful expression.
2. Sew the cheeks first, then the center muzzle, then the red nose. This order creates the raised layered face.
3. Sew the eyes above the nose, close together and upright. Add pupils after the white ovals are secure.
4. Sew ears to the top of the head and add the yellow bow between them.
5. Attach arms to the upper red shirt area, with the white paws angled slightly forward.
6. Attach legs to the lower body. Slide the overalls over the legs and body before sewing the final clothing points firmly.
7. Sew the straps over the shoulders and add the front buttons.
8. Attach the tail to the back lower body, letting it angle to one side.
9. Place the blue shoes on the feet and sew securely around the opening.
10. Finish with whiskers, shoe buttons, and any small embroidered highlights.

Care Notes

Spot clean the finished crochet set with cool water and mild soap. Avoid soaking the doll because the layered face, shoes, buttons, and accessories may take a long time to dry. Press gently with a towel and reshape while damp.

Let the pieces air dry flat. Keep the doll away from direct heat, strong sunlight, and rough handling. If this project is made for a small child, replace buttons with embroidered circles and sew every small part extra securely.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The red nose is centered and raised.
• The white cheeks are large, round, and balanced on both sides.
• The eyes sit close together above the nose.
• The ears angle outward with lavender inner panels visible.
• The yellow bow is centered between the ears.
• The overalls have even blue-and-white stripes.
• The straps cross over the shoulders and attach with front buttons.
• The shoes are rounded, blue, and finished with white toe patches.
• The beanie, red bag, yarn ball, and mouse are included as matching accessories.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term display, keep the doll in a clean, dry place. Lightly dust it with a soft brush every few weeks, especially around the face, overalls, and small accessories. Store the mouse, yarn ball, bag, and beanie in a small fabric pouch when not displayed.

If the doll becomes flattened, gently massage the stuffing back into shape with your hands. Do not pull on the whiskers, straps, bow, handle, or tail. These details are decorative and should be handled with care to preserve the handmade look.