Crochet Tutorial: Woody Woodpecker Garden Farmer in Blue Overalls – Free Crochet Pattern.

This free crochet pattern guides you through making a cheerful red woodpecker garden farmer with a tall red crest, long yellow beak, big green eyes, blue overalls, striped garden shirt, brown shoes, a crossbody leaf pouch, and tiny garden accessories. The finished doll also includes a straw hat, watering can, trowel, and a small sprout planter with a ladybug on the head.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This amigurumi is worked mostly in continuous spiral rounds, using tight single crochet stitches to create a firm plush shape. The head is rounded and slightly larger than the body, the beak is long and curved upward, and the farmer outfit is built directly over the doll with separate straps, cuffs, buttons, and embroidered vegetable details.

The design is best for an adventurous beginner or intermediate crocheter. The shaping is simple, but there are many small decorative parts. Work slowly, use stitch markers, and stuff each piece firmly enough to hold shape without stretching the stitches.

• Finished size: about 11 inches tall from shoes to crest, using worsted weight yarn and a 3.0 mm hook.
• Gauge: 6 sc x 6 rounds = about 1 inch in tight amigurumi tension.
• Construction: head, body, legs, arms, beak, eyes, crest, clothing, pouch, and garden tools are made separately and sewn together.
• Recommended skill level: confident beginner to intermediate.

Materials

• Worsted weight cotton or acrylic yarn in red, bright yellow, white, green, royal blue, denim blue, light blue, brown, tan, cream, gray, black, beige, orange, red tomato shade, leaf green, and small amounts of flower colors.
• 3.0 mm crochet hook for the doll and clothing.
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for tiny details such as vegetables, buttons, ladybug, and flowers.
• Polyester fiberfill.
• Yarn needle and embroidery needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Small wooden buttons, 6 to 8 mm, or crocheted buttons.
• Black embroidery thread for eyebrows, eye outlines, mouth accents, and ladybug dots.
• Optional craft wire for the sprout stem and trowel handle.
• Optional plastic safety eyes are not needed because the eyes are crocheted flat.

US Crochet Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st: stitch
• sts: stitches
• FO: fasten off
• R: round or row

Important Pattern Notes

Work all amigurumi pieces in continuous rounds unless the pattern says to join. Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round. Stuff the head, body, shoes, legs, and beak gradually as you work so the shapes stay smooth and rounded.

The doll in the image has a large expressive head, a smaller farmer body, short rounded arms, sturdy boots, and a long yellow beak that curves slightly upward. The overalls sit high on the torso, with rolled cuffs at the ankles and two straps crossing over the striped shirt.

• Stuff the head firmly, especially around the cheeks and lower front where the beak is sewn.
• Keep the beak lightly stuffed at the tip and more firmly stuffed at the base.
• Pin all facial pieces before sewing so the expression is balanced.
• Use small stitches when attaching the eyes so the white ovals stay flat and neat.
• For a sturdy standing doll, insert a short weighted pouch or plastic pellets inside the lower body before closing.

Head

Use red yarn and a 3.0 mm hook. The head is a rounded oval, slightly wider across the cheeks and tapering gently at the neck. The front of the head should face the beak, with the crest attached along the top and back.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. (42)
8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. (48)
9. R9: sc 7, inc, repeat around. (54)
10. R10-R18: sc around. (54)
11. R19: sc 16, inc, sc 22, inc, sc 14. (56)
12. R20-R23: sc around. (56)
13. R24: sc 12, dec, repeat around. (52)
14. R25: sc 11, dec, repeat around. (48)
15. R26: sc 6, dec, repeat around. (42)
16. R27: sc 5, dec, repeat around. (36)
17. R28: sc 4, dec, repeat around. (30)
18. R29: sc 3, dec, repeat around. (24)
19. R30: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)

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Stuff the head very firmly. Shape it with your hands so the lower front is full and rounded. Leave a long tail for sewing the head to the body. Do not close the neck opening completely; the 18-stitch opening helps the head sit securely on the body.

Body

Use red yarn for the visible neck and inner body. The overalls will cover most of the body, but red should show at the neck above the white collar. The body is shorter than the head and softly pear-shaped.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
7. R7-R12: sc around. (36)
8. R13: sc 10, dec, repeat around. (33)
9. R14-R16: sc around. (33)
10. R17: sc 9, dec, repeat around. (30)
11. R18-R19: sc around. (30)
12. R20: sc 3, dec, repeat around. (24)
13. R21: sc around. (24)
14. R22: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)

Stuff the body firmly. Leave a long tail. The neck should match the head opening. Sew the head to the body after the clothing base is completed, or pin it in place first to check the height of the collar.

Yellow Legs

Make two legs in bright yellow. The legs are short and straight, showing between the rolled overall cuffs and the brown shoes.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: BLO sc around. (12)
4. R4-R9: sc around. (12)

Stuff lightly. FO the first leg. Do not fasten off the second leg if you want to join the body directly, but for easier assembly, finish both legs and sew them beneath the overalls with a slight outward angle.

Brown Garden Shoes

Make two shoes in warm brown. Each shoe has a rounded toe, flat sole, beige trim, and tiny flower decoration on the front, matching the image.

Shoe Sole

Use beige yarn.

1. R1: ch 7, sc in second ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side of the chain: sc 4, inc in last st. (14)
2. R2: inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc 2 times. (20)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. (26)

Change to brown yarn.

1. R4: BLO sc around. (26)
2. R5: sc around. (26)
3. R6: sc 7, dec 6 times, sc 7. (20)
4. R7: sc 6, dec 4 times, sc 6. (16)
5. R8-R9: sc around. (16)

Stuff the toe and heel firmly. Insert one yellow leg into the opening and sew the shoe to the leg. The toes should point slightly outward for the cute farmer stance.

Shoe Flower Detail

For each shoe, use a 2.5 mm hook. With white or pale yellow yarn, make 5 sc in MR, sl st to close, FO. Add a tiny green stitch for a leaf and a small red stitch beside one flower if desired. Sew onto the outer front of each shoe.

Arms and White Hands

The arms are blue sleeves with white mitten-like hands. Make two. Begin with white yarn for the hand.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3-R4: sc around. (12)
4. R5: sc 4, bobble of 4 dc in next st for thumb, sc 7. (12)
5. R6: sc 4, dec, sc 6. (11)

Change to royal blue for the sleeve.

1. R7: BLO sc around. (11)
2. R8-R17: sc around. (11)
3. R18: sc 3, dec, sc 4, dec. (9)

Stuff the hands lightly and leave the upper sleeves mostly unstuffed. Flatten the arm opening and crochet 4 sc across both layers. FO with a long tail. Sew the arms to the upper body under the shoulder straps, angled slightly forward.

Striped Garden Shirt

The shirt is worked as colored bands around the upper body. In the photo, the sleeves are blue, and the torso has green and yellow-green stripes visible above the bib and at the sides. You may crochet the shirt directly over the body or make it as a removable tube.

Shirt Body Tube

Use green yarn.

1. R1: ch 36, join with sl st to form a ring, ch 1, sc around. (36)
2. R2: sc around in green. (36)
3. R3: change to yellow-green, sc around. (36)
4. R4: change to green, sc around. (36)
5. R5: change to yellow-green, sc around. (36)
6. R6: change to green, sc around. (36)
7. R7: sc 4, dec, repeat around. (30)
8. R8: sc around. (30)

FO and slide the shirt over the body before adding the overalls. Align the stripe join at the back. The shirt should show at the shoulders and sides, while the blue bib covers the center front.

White Ruffled Collar

The collar sits between the red head and striped shirt. Use white yarn and work around the neck after the head and body are sewn, or make the collar separately and sew it in place.

1. R1: ch 24, join with sl st to form a ring. (24)
2. R2: ch 1, sc around, sl st to join. (24)
3. R3: ch 2, 3 hdc in each st around, sl st to join. (72)

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FO and weave in the end. Place the ruffle around the neck with the wavy edge facing outward. Sew lightly to keep it from riding up over the lower head.

Blue Denim Overalls

The overalls are the largest clothing piece. They have a rounded lower section, a front bib, rolled cuffs, two straps with buttons, and small vegetable appliques. Use denim blue yarn for the main piece and light blue for cuffs and edging.

Overall Pants Base

Make two pant legs first in denim blue.

1. R1: ch 18, join with sl st, ch 1, sc around. (18)
2. R2-R6: sc around. (18)
3. R7: sc 8, inc, sc 8, inc. (20)

FO the first pant leg. Make the second pant leg the same, but do not fasten off. Join the legs as follows.

1. R8: sc 20 around second leg, ch 2, sc 20 around first leg, sc 2 across the chain bridge. (44)
2. R9-R14: sc around. (44)
3. R15: sc 9, dec, repeat around. (40)
4. R16-R18: sc around. (40)
5. R19: sc 8, dec, repeat around. (36)
6. R20: sc around. (36)

FO and leave a long tail. Pull the overalls up over the body. The top edge should sit just under the green shirt stripes. Sew the back seam lightly so the pants fit snugly around the body.

Rolled Cuffs

Use light blue yarn. Join yarn to the front loop of the bottom of each pant leg.

1. R1: sc around the bottom edge. (18)
2. R2: FLO sc around. (18)
3. R3: sl st around loosely. (18)

Fold the cuff upward slightly and tack it in place with two small stitches. Repeat for the second leg. The cuffs should sit just above the yellow legs, matching the rolled look in the image.

Front Bib

Use denim blue yarn. Work in rows.

1. R1: ch 16, sc in second ch from hook and across. (15)
2. R2-R8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (15)
3. R9: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 11, dec. (13)
4. R10-R11: ch 1, turn, sc across. (13)

FO with a long tail. Center the bib on the front of the body over the pants and shirt. Sew the bottom and side edges down, leaving the top edge neat and flat.

Overall Straps

Make two straps in denim blue. Each strap runs from the back waist, over the shoulders, to the front bib buttons.

1. R1: ch 28, sc in second ch from hook and across. (27)
2. R2: ch 1, turn, sc across. (27)

FO and sew one end of each strap to the back of the pants. Cross them slightly over the shoulders if you like, then sew the front ends to the upper corners of the bib. Add one small wooden or crocheted button to each front strap end.

Crocheted Buttons

If you do not use wooden buttons, make two with tan yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR, sl st to close. (6)

FO and sew to the front straps. Use brown thread to make two tiny straight stitches across each button so they look like real wooden buttons.

Vegetable Appliques on the Bib

The bib in the image has tiny garden vegetables: an orange carrot with green leaves and a red tomato or apple with a green stem. These details are small, so use a 2.5 mm hook and do not overstuff.

Mini Carrot

Use orange yarn.

1. R1: 4 sc in MR. (4)
2. R2: sc around. (4)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat twice. (6)
4. R4: sc around. (6)

FO. With green yarn, attach to the top and make ch 3, sl st into carrot top, ch 3, sl st again, ch 2, sl st again. Sew the carrot to the left side of the bib.

Mini Tomato

Use red yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc around. (12)
4. R4: dec around. (6)

Lightly stuff or flatten the tomato. FO and close. With green yarn, embroider a tiny star at the top. Sew the tomato to the right side of the bib.

Large White Eyes

The eyes are large white ovals with green irises and black pupils. Make two white ovals. They should sit close together on the front of the head, slightly above the beak base.

White Eye Ovals

Use white yarn and a 3.0 mm hook.

1. R1: ch 7, sc in second ch from hook, hdc 2, dc 2, 5 dc in last ch. Work down the other side: dc 2, hdc 2, 3 sc in last st, sl st to join. (18)
2. R2: ch 1, sc 1, hdc 2, dc 2, 2 dc in each of next 5 sts, dc 2, hdc 2, 2 sc in each of last 3 sts, sl st to join. (26)

FO with a long tail. Flatten the ovals gently. The taller rounded end should face downward for the wide-eyed expression.

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Green Irises

Make two in bright green.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around, sl st to join. (12)

FO with a long tail. Sew each green iris onto the lower inner area of a white eye oval. Keep them slightly crossed toward the center for a cute, curious look.

Black Pupils

Make two in black.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR, sl st to close. (6)

FO and sew one pupil centered on each green iris. Add a tiny white embroidery stitch at the upper side of each pupil for a highlight. Sew the completed eyes to the face between R13 and R22 of the head.

Yellow Beak

The beak is long, rounded, and slightly upturned. It is worked from the tip toward the face. Use bright yellow yarn and stuff gradually, keeping the tip smooth.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. R2: sc around. (5)
3. R3: inc, sc 4. (6)
4. R4: sc around. (6)
5. R5: sc 2, inc, sc 3. (7)
6. R6: sc around. (7)
7. R7: sc 3, inc, sc 3. (8)
8. R8: sc around. (8)
9. R9: sc 3, inc, sc 4. (9)
10. R10: sc around. (9)
11. R11: sc 4, inc, sc 4. (10)
12. R12: sc 2, inc, repeat 3 times, sc 1. (13)
13. R13: sc around. (13)
14. R14: sc 3, inc, repeat 3 times, sc 1. (16)
15. R15-R17: sc around. (16)
16. R18: sc 7, inc 2 times, sc 7. (18)
17. R19: sc around. (18)

FO with a long tail. Shape the beak so the tip points gently upward. Sew the base across the lower front of the face, centered under the eyes. Use firm stitches around the opening and add extra stitches underneath to support the beak’s lifted shape.

Yellow Cheek Puffs

Make two round cheek puffs in yellow. They sit on each side of the beak base and give the face its soft rounded look.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
4. R4-R5: sc around. (18)
5. R6: sc 1, dec, repeat around. (12)

Stuff lightly and FO with a long tail. Sew one cheek puff to each side of the beak base. The puffs should touch the lower edges of the eyes and sit slightly forward from the face.

Red Crest Feathers

The crest is made from three curved red feather spikes. The center feather is the tallest, with two smaller feathers beside it. Sew them along the top of the head and down the back ridge.

Large Center Crest

Use red yarn.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. R2: sc around. (5)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 3. (6)
4. R4-R5: sc around. (6)
5. R6: sc 2, inc, sc 3. (7)
6. R7-R8: sc around. (7)
7. R9: sc 3, inc, sc 3. (8)
8. R10-R13: sc around. (8)

Stuff very lightly. Flatten the base and leave a long tail.

Side Crest Feathers

Make two.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. R2-R3: sc around. (5)
3. R4: sc 1, inc, sc 3. (6)
4. R5-R8: sc around. (6)
5. R9: sc 2, inc, sc 3. (7)
6. R10-R11: sc around. (7)

Stuff lightly. Flatten each base. Sew the tallest feather in the center top of the head, leaning slightly backward. Sew the side feathers beside it, one angled left and one angled right. Add a few hidden stitches along the back so the crest follows the head curve.

Black Eyebrows and Face Lines

Use black embroidery thread or thin black yarn. Embroider one curved eyebrow above each eye. Start the left eyebrow above the outer corner of the left eye and curve it toward the center. Repeat on the right side, mirroring the curve.

• Use 3 to 4 long backstitches for each eyebrow.
• Keep the eyebrows slightly arched for the playful expression.
• Add one short black line at each side of the beak if you want extra cartoon definition.
• Do not pull the thread too tight, or the face will pucker.

Sprout Planter on the Head

The small brown planter sits on top of the head behind the crest. It has a green sprout with two leaves and a tiny red ladybug. This is a key detail, so make it small and secure.

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Small Brown Planter

Use tan or light brown yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
4. R4: BLO sc around. (18)
5. R5-R7: sc around. (18)
6. R8: sc 1, dec, repeat around. (12)

Stuff lightly. FO with a long tail. Sew the planter to the top of the head, slightly off center, behind the crest and above the right eye area.

Sprout Stem

Use green yarn. For a bendable stem, crochet around a small piece of craft wire.

1. R1: ch 9.
2. R2: sl st in second ch from hook and across. (8)

FO, leaving tails for sewing. Sew one end into the planter. The stem should stand upright and lean slightly back.

Sprout Leaves

Make two leaves in light green.

1. R1: ch 7, sc in second ch from hook, hdc 1, dc 2, hdc 1, 3 sc in last ch. Work along the other side: hdc 1, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st to first st.

FO and sew both leaves to the top of the stem, forming a V shape. Use one stitch through the center of each leaf to keep it slightly cupped.

Tiny Ladybug

Use red yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: sc around. (6)

FO and flatten. With black yarn, embroider a small head, center line, and two dots. Sew the ladybug to the side of the planter.

Crossbody Strap and Leaf Pouch

The doll has a brown crossbody strap running from one shoulder to the opposite hip. A small cream pouch hangs at the front, decorated with a green leaf. This accessory adds the garden farmer look.

Brown Crossbody Strap

Use brown yarn.

1. R1: ch 48, sc in second ch from hook and across. (47)

FO and leave a sewing tail. Place the strap from the doll’s left shoulder across the chest to the right hip. Sew the ends behind the body or under the pouch so they are hidden.

Cream Pouch

Use cream yarn and work in rows.

1. R1: ch 11, sc in second ch from hook and across. (10)
2. R2-R9: ch 1, turn, sc across. (10)
3. R10: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 6, dec. (8)
4. R11: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 4, dec. (6)

Do not FO yet. Sc evenly around the pouch edge, placing 2 sc in each lower corner. Sl st to join, FO with a long tail. Sew the pouch to the lower front body, slightly to one side, over the overalls.

Leaf on Pouch

Use leaf green yarn.

1. R1: ch 8, sc in second ch from hook, hdc 1, dc 3, hdc 1, 3 sc in last ch. Work along the other side: hdc 1, dc 3, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st to join.

FO and sew to the front of the pouch. Embroider one center vein with darker green yarn using straight stitches.

Straw Garden Hat

The hat is a flat straw-style sunhat with a blue band. It rests beside the doll in the image, but you may also place it on the head when the sprout planter is not attached. Use beige yarn.

Hat Crown

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
6. R6: BLO sc around. (30)
7. R7-R10: sc around. (30)

Hat Brim

1. R11: FLO sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
2. R12: sc 5, inc, repeat around. (42)
3. R13: sc 6, inc, repeat around. (48)
4. R14: sc 7, inc, repeat around. (54)
5. R15: sc around. (54)
6. R16: sl st loosely around. (54)

FO and weave in ends. Use blue yarn to make a hat band: ch 34, sc in second ch from hook and across. Sew the band around the crown and add two short blue ties at the back.

Gray Watering Can

The watering can is small and gray, placed beside the doll. It has a rounded body, open top, side handle, and spout. Use gray yarn and keep the stuffing light.

Watering Can Body

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
5. R5: BLO sc around. (24)
6. R6-R10: sc around. (24)
7. R11: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)
8. R12: sc around. (18)

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FO and leave the top slightly open. You can add a ring of sl sts around the opening to make it look neat.

Watering Can Spout

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. R2-R7: sc around. (5)
3. R8: sc 1, inc, sc 3. (6)
4. R9-R10: sc around. (6)

FO and sew the spout to one side of the can, angled upward. Flatten the tip slightly.

Watering Can Handle

Use gray yarn.

1. R1: ch 16, sc in second ch from hook and across. (15)
2. R2: ch 1, turn, sc across. (15)

FO and sew the handle in an arch on the opposite side of the spout. Attach one end near the upper side and the other near the lower side.

Small Garden Trowel

The trowel has a brown handle and gray metal scoop. It is a simple accessory for display beside the doll.

Handle

Use brown yarn.

1. R1: ch 9, sc in second ch from hook and across. (8)
2. R2: ch 1, turn, sc across. (8)

FO. For a firmer handle, sew the long edges together around a short piece of craft wire or pipe cleaner.

Trowel Blade

Use gray yarn.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat twice, sc 1. (7)
3. R3: sc 2, inc, sc 3, inc. (9)
4. R4: sc around. (9)
5. R5: sc 3, inc, sc 4, inc. (11)
6. R6: sc around. (11)

Flatten the blade and sew it to the handle. Add a few straight stitches down the center in light gray to suggest a metal ridge.

Optional Back Tail Feathers

If you want the back of the doll to be as detailed as the front, add two short red tail feathers under the overalls. They should peek slightly from behind without making the doll unstable.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. R2-R5: sc around. (5)
3. R6: sc 1, inc, sc 3. (6)
4. R7-R8: sc around. (6)

Make two. Stuff lightly, flatten the bases, and sew them to the lower back, just above the seat of the overalls.

Assembly Order

1. Sew the yellow legs into the brown shoes, making sure the shoes face slightly outward.
2. Sew the legs to the lower body, checking that the doll can sit or stand with support.
3. Slide the striped shirt over the body and tack it in place at the back.
4. Put the blue overall pants over the body and legs, then sew the upper edge to the body.
5. Sew the bib to the front and add the straps over the shoulders.
6. Sew the arms to the sides of the body under the straps.
7. Attach the white ruffled collar around the neck.
8. Sew the head to the body securely, passing through the neck opening several times.
9. Sew the eyes to the face first, then add the beak and yellow cheek puffs.
10. Attach the crest feathers along the top and back of the head.
11. Add the eyebrows, eye highlights, and any small black facial lines.
12. Sew the sprout planter to the head and attach the sprout leaves and ladybug.
13. Add the vegetable appliques, pouch, crossbody strap, shoe flowers, and buttons.
14. Make the straw hat, watering can, and trowel for the full garden display.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing: Pin every major piece before sewing. The eyes should be large and close together, the beak should sit directly under them, and the yellow cheek puffs should frame the beak base. Sew the head with many firm stitches so it does not wobble.

Use black embroidery thread for the eyebrows and tiny face accents. The eyebrows should curve upward toward the outside edges, giving the doll a lively garden-helper expression. Add white highlights to the pupils last, after the eyes are fully attached.

Check the overalls from the front and sides. The bib should sit centered, the straps should be even, and the buttons should rest at the top corners of the bib. The crossbody pouch should hang naturally across the front without covering the carrot and tomato details.

Care Notes

Care Notes: This piece is best used as a decorative amigurumi. Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap. Avoid soaking, twisting, or machine drying because the small pieces, embroidered details, and accessories may lose shape.

If the doll becomes dusty, use a soft brush to clean around the crest, eyes, planter, pouch, and overalls. Let the piece air dry fully before storing it. Keep it away from pets and very young children because of the small sewn-on parts.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Both eyes are level and firmly sewn.
• The beak is centered and lightly curved upward.
• Yellow cheek puffs touch the beak base evenly.
• The red crest stands tall and leans slightly back.
• The white collar is visible above the striped shirt.
• The overalls have a front bib, straps, buttons, cuffs, carrot, and tomato.
• The pouch strap crosses the body diagonally.
• The sprout planter, leaves, and ladybug are secure.
• The shoes include beige soles and tiny flower details.
• The straw hat, watering can, and trowel are completed for display.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines: Store the finished doll upright or lying flat in a dry place. Do not compress the crest, beak, or sprout for long periods. If storing in a box, place soft tissue around the head accessories to protect their shape.

For long-term display, keep the doll away from direct sunlight to prevent yarn colors from fading. If you used craft wire in the sprout or tool handle, keep the piece dry so the wire does not rust or discolor the yarn.

When cleaning embroidered areas, dab gently instead of rubbing. The black eyebrow stitches, ladybug dots, and vegetable appliques are small, so careful handling will keep the farmer details crisp and neat for many seasons of display.