Crochet Tutorial: Swan Perfume Vanity Parlor – Crochet.

This elegant crochet project recreates a soft cream-and-blush vanity parlor inside a portable suitcase-style diorama. The design includes an open crochet case, glowing trim, a scalloped rose border, a tiny vanity table with oval mirror, perfume bottles, framed wall art, a round stool, lace blanket detail, flowers, and a graceful swan wearing a golden skirt and pale pink bow.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US crochet terms and is designed as a decorative amigurumi display. The finished piece is a miniature vanity parlor scene with a standing swan doll placed inside an open suitcase room. The look is soft, romantic, and vintage, using warm cream yarn, dusty pink accents, pearl details, and small handmade furniture.

The suitcase is built with flat crochet panels reinforced with plastic canvas or cardboard. The swan is worked separately in continuous rounds, then dressed with a removable-looking skirt and bow. Most pieces use tight single crochet stitches so the surface looks neat and structured, similar to the image.

Finished Size

• Open suitcase base: about 9 inches wide, 6 inches deep, and 2 inches tall.
• Back wall lid: about 9 inches wide and 6.5 inches tall.
• Swan: about 4.5 inches tall from feet to top of head.
• Vanity table: about 3.5 inches wide and 2 inches tall.
• Round stool: about 2 inches wide and 1 inch tall.

Exact size may change depending on yarn weight, hook size, stuffing tension, and the thickness of your reinforcement insert. Keep your stitches firm so the suitcase, furniture, and swan hold their shape cleanly.

Skill Level

Intermediate. A confident beginner can make this project slowly, but the full parlor includes many small parts. You should be comfortable working in continuous rounds, making flat panels, sewing pieces together, shaping small amigurumi parts, and assembling a structured crochet diorama.

Materials

• Worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn in warm cream.
• Worsted weight yarn in blush pink.
• Worsted weight yarn in soft tan or antique gold.
• Small amount of white yarn.
• Small amount of black yarn or black embroidery thread.
• Small amount of peach yarn for the swan beak.
• Small amount of pale green yarn for rose leaves.
• 3.25 mm crochet hook for the suitcase and furniture.
• 2.75 mm crochet hook for small details and flowers.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Plastic canvas, thin cardboard, or foam sheet for structure.
• Small oval mirror insert or reflective silver felt.
• Small pearl bead for vanity drawer knob.
• Small pearl beads for decoration.
• Battery-operated micro LED fairy lights, optional.
• Ribbon in pale pink, about 1 inch wide.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Scissors.
• Fabric glue, optional for mirror and lights.

Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: single crochet 2 stitches together
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st: stitch
• sts: stitches
• FO: fasten off

Gauge

Using a 3.25 mm hook, 18 sc and 20 rows should measure about 4 inches. Gauge does not need to be exact for this decorative project, but all matching panels should be worked with the same tension. For a polished look, your stitches should be close enough that reinforcement and stuffing do not show through.

Important Construction Notes

The suitcase is made from separate flat rectangles. You will crochet a bottom panel, four short side walls, and one tall back lid panel. Reinforcement pieces are placed inside or behind the panels before sewing. This gives the open parlor the sturdy box-like shape shown in the image.

Use warm cream as the main color for the case. Blush pink is used for the inner border, outside lace trim, rose garland, perfume cushion, stool trim, and small decorative details. The contrast should stay gentle and vintage, not bright.

For the neatest finish, block all flat panels lightly before assembly. Do not stretch them too much. The stitches should remain thick, soft, and slightly rounded, matching the handmade crochet texture in the photo.

Suitcase Bottom Panel

Use warm cream yarn and a 3.25 mm hook. This piece forms the floor of the vanity parlor. Work in rows, chaining 1 at the end of each row. The chain 1 does not count as a stitch.

1. Ch 39.
2. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. 38 sc.
3. Rows 2-28: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 38 sc.
4. Do not FO. Ch 1 and rotate the rectangle.
5. Border Round 1: Work 28 sc evenly down the first side, 38 sc across the bottom edge, 28 sc up the second side, and 38 sc across the top edge. Sl st to first sc. 132 sc.
6. Border Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, placing 3 sc in each corner stitch. Sl st to first sc. FO, leaving a long tail.

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Cut a reinforcement piece slightly smaller than the crochet rectangle, about 8.75 inches by 5.75 inches. The crochet should wrap around it softly without pulling. Set both pieces aside until assembly.

Front Wall of Suitcase

The front wall is low so the viewer can see into the parlor. It also carries the blush pink scalloped rose garland seen across the front edge of the image.

1. With cream yarn, ch 39.
2. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and across. 38 sc.
3. Rows 2-8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 38 sc.
4. Row 9: Ch 1, turn, BLO sc in each st across. 38 sc.
5. Rows 10-12: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 38 sc.
6. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Cut a reinforcement strip about 8.75 inches wide and 1.75 inches tall. Place it behind the front wall during assembly. The BLO ridge from Row 9 should face outward near the upper edge to suggest the suitcase rim.

Back Short Wall

This wall sits at the base of the tall lid. It gives the suitcase depth and helps the lid stand upright.

1. With cream yarn, ch 39.
2. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and across. 38 sc.
3. Rows 2-10: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 38 sc.
4. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Left and Right Side Walls

Make two matching side walls in cream. They should be the same height as the front wall but narrower. These pieces complete the suitcase tray.

1. Ch 29.
2. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and across. 28 sc.
3. Rows 2-10: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 28 sc.
4. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.
5. Repeat for the second side wall.

Cut two reinforcement strips about 5.75 inches wide and 1.75 inches tall. These strips should sit inside the crochet side walls and help the suitcase keep a rectangular shape.

Tall Back Lid Panel

The upright back lid is the largest visible piece. It has a cream crochet wall, blush pink inner border, fairy light path, small framed picture, and flowers along the lower edge.

1. With cream yarn, ch 39.
2. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and across. 38 sc.
3. Rows 2-34: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 38 sc.
4. Do not FO. Work a border around the rectangle.
5. Border Round 1: Ch 1, work 34 sc down the side, 38 sc across the bottom, 34 sc up the other side, and 38 sc across the top. Sl st to first sc. 144 sc.
6. Border Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, placing 3 sc in each corner. Sl st to first sc. FO with a long tail.

Cut a reinforcement rectangle about 8.75 inches wide and 6.25 inches tall. Place it behind the panel. The crochet should curve slightly over the edges for a padded suitcase-lid look. Do not make it too tight, because the lid should look plush and soft.

Blush Inner Border on Lid

The image shows a delicate pink line following the inside of the lid, just inside the cream edge. This border frames the parlor wall and also gives a path for optional fairy lights.

1. With blush pink yarn, join near the lower left corner of the lid, about 3 rows in from the outer edge.
2. Surface sl st across 32 sts along the lower inside edge.
3. Surface sl st up the right side for about 28 rows.
4. Surface sl st across the top for 32 sts.
5. Surface sl st down the left side for about 28 rows.
6. Sl st to join and FO. Weave in ends on the back.

Keep the surface stitches relaxed. If they are too tight, the back lid may curl. The border should look like a soft stitched cord resting on top of the cream wall.

Suitcase Rim Cord

The thick rounded rim around the suitcase is important because it makes the case look padded and luxurious. Make one long cream cord for the top edge of the base and another for the outer edge of the lid.

1. With cream yarn, ch 115 for the base rim.
2. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and across. 114 sc.
3. FO, leaving a long tail.
4. For the lid rim, ch 150.
5. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and across. 149 sc.
6. FO, leaving a long tail.

Sew the base rim along the upper edge of the front and side walls. Sew the lid rim around the outside edge of the back panel. For a beaded texture like the photo, place a tiny stitch into every other row and let the cord sit slightly raised.

Blush Scalloped Front Trim

This trim creates the decorative garland along the front of the suitcase. It should look like soft pink crochet scallops, with tiny roses resting above or between the curves.

1. With blush pink yarn and a 2.75 mm hook, ch 46.
2. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and across. 45 sc.
3. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sc in next st. Repeat from skip section across. FO.

Sew this trim to the outside front wall, slightly below the top rim. Let the scallops hang downward. Add small cream stitches between scallops if you want the trim to sit neatly against the wall.

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Mini Crochet Roses

Make at least seven blush roses and four cream roses. Place them on the front trim, around the left bench area, and near the right side of the lid, matching the clustered floral look in the image.

1. With blush or cream yarn and a 2.75 mm hook, ch 16.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, 3 dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch. Repeat this petal sequence across as space allows.
3. FO, leaving a long tail.
4. Roll the strip into a rose shape, keeping the first petal tight as the center.
5. Sew through the bottom several times to secure.

Small Leaves

1. With pale green yarn, ch 5.
2. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch.
3. Work on the other side of the chain: dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch.
4. Sl st to join and FO.

Sew one or two leaves behind selected roses. The leaves should be small and subtle so the cream-and-pink palette remains soft.

Suitcase Assembly

1. Place the bottom reinforcement under the bottom crochet panel.
2. Sew the front wall to the front long edge of the bottom panel using whip stitches through both layers.
3. Sew the back short wall to the opposite long edge.
4. Sew the two side walls to the short edges of the bottom panel.
5. Sew the side wall corners together so the base becomes a shallow open box.
6. Place reinforcement strips inside the walls as you sew, hiding them between the crochet and the inner seams.
7. Sew the tall lid panel to the outside of the back wall, allowing it to stand upright at about a 95-degree angle.
8. Add several strong stitches along the hinge line so the lid does not flop backward.

After sewing, gently shape the suitcase with your hands. The corners should be softly rounded, not sharp. The front wall should lean outward very slightly, creating the cozy open display shape shown in the image.

Optional Fairy Light Placement

The photo shows warm glowing lights around the lid and suitcase edge. Use battery-operated micro LED fairy lights only. Do not use plug-in lights or anything that gets warm.

1. Lay the light strand along the blush inner border of the lid.
2. Use small cream yarn stitches to tack the wire every 1 inch.
3. Bring the strand down the right side and around the front suitcase rim.
4. Hide the battery pack behind the suitcase or inside a small crochet pouch.
5. Do not crochet tightly over the bulbs. Each bulb should remain visible.

Vanity Table Base

The vanity table sits at the back center-left of the suitcase. It has a cream rectangular table, a single drawer with a pearl knob, two small legs, and an oval mirror rising from the back.

1. With cream yarn, ch 18.
2. Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and across. 17 sc.
3. Rows 2-8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 17 sc.
4. Do not FO. Work 1 round of sc evenly around the rectangle, placing 3 sc in each corner. Sl st to join.
5. FO, leaving a long tail.

Cut a small reinforcement rectangle to fit under the tabletop. Sew or glue it beneath the crochet piece. The tabletop should stay flat because perfume bottles and the mirror will be attached to it.

Vanity Front Drawer

1. With cream yarn, ch 16.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 15 sc.
3. Rows 2-4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 15 sc.
4. FO, leaving a sewing tail.
5. Sew to the front of the table.
6. Sew one pearl bead in the center as the drawer knob.

Vanity Legs

Make two visible front legs. The back of the vanity can be sewn directly to the wall or supported by two hidden short legs.

1. With cream yarn, MR, 5 sc in ring. 5 sc.
2. Rounds 2-7: Sc in each st around. 5 sc.
3. FO, leaving a tail.
4. Repeat for the second leg.

Lightly stuff each leg with a tiny amount of fiberfill or yarn scraps. Sew them under the front corners of the vanity table. Sew the back edge of the table to the lid wall for extra stability.

Oval Vanity Mirror

The oval mirror is the main focal point above the vanity. You can use a real small oval mirror, reflective craft sheet, silver felt, or gray yarn center. The crochet frame should be cream with a blush pink accent around it.

Mirror Center

1. With light gray or silver yarn, ch 9.
2. Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 6 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side of the chain: sc in next 6 ch, 2 sc in last ch. 18 sc.
3. Round 2: Inc, sc 6, inc in next 3 sts, sc 6, inc in next 2 sts. 24 sc.
4. Round 3: Sc 1, inc, sc 7, repeat sc 1, inc three times around the curved end, sc 7, repeat sc 1, inc twice. 30 sc.
5. FO and weave in ends.

Cream Mirror Frame

1. Join cream yarn to any stitch of the mirror center.
2. Round 1: BLO sc in each st around. 30 sc.
3. Round 2: Sc in each st around. 30 sc.
4. FO, leaving a long tail.

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Blush Outer Mirror Trim

1. Join blush pink yarn to the outer frame.
2. Round 1: Sl st in each stitch around for a raised pink line.
3. FO and weave in ends.

Sew the mirror vertically to the lid panel, centered above the vanity table. The bottom of the mirror should touch or slightly overlap the back of the tabletop so the pieces look connected.

Small Vanity Brush or Comb

The image shows a tiny gold-toned accessory on the vanity table. Make a simple comb or brush to place in front of the mirror.

1. With tan or antique gold yarn, ch 12.
2. Row 1: Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across. 11 sl st.
3. Ch 1 and turn the piece so you can work along one long side.
4. Make 1 short fringe by ch 2 and sl st into the same side space. Repeat 7 times across the center of the strip.
5. FO and trim ends neatly.

Sew or glue the comb flat on the vanity tabletop. Keep it small so it does not overpower the perfume bottles.

Perfume Bottles

Make one blush round perfume bottle and one cream bottle. They sit on the vanity table beside the mirror. The blush bottle is rounder, while the cream bottle is slimmer with a golden cap.

Round Blush Perfume Bottle

1. With blush yarn, MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc 1, inc around. 18 sc.
4. Rounds 4-6: Sc in each st around. 18 sc.
5. Round 7: Sc 1, dec around. 12 sc.
6. Stuff lightly.
7. Round 8: Dec around. 6 sc.
8. FO and close the hole.

Perfume Neck and Cap

1. Join cream yarn to the top center and ch 3.
2. Work 5 sc around the chain base for 2 rounds.
3. Change to tan yarn and work 1 round of 5 sc.
4. FO and secure.

Slim Cream Perfume Bottle

1. With cream yarn, MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sc.
3. Rounds 3-7: Sc in each st around. 12 sc.
4. Round 8: Dec around. 6 sc.
5. Stuff lightly and close.
6. With tan yarn, make a small cap by working 5 sc in MR, then 1 round of 5 sc. Sew to top.

Sew the bottles to the vanity tabletop so they do not fall over. Place the blush bottle on the left and the cream bottle on the right, similar to the image.

Round Vanity Stool

The round stool sits in front of the vanity. It is cream on top with a blush pink band around the side. The top should look like a flat spiral circle.

1. With cream yarn, MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc 1, inc around. 18 sc.
4. Round 4: Sc 2, inc around. 24 sc.
5. Round 5: Sc 3, inc around. 30 sc.
6. Round 6: Sc 4, inc around. 36 sc.
7. Round 7: BLO sc in each st around. 36 sc.
8. Change to blush pink yarn.
9. Rounds 8-10: Sc in each st around. 36 sc.
10. Change back to cream yarn.
11. Round 11: BLO sc 4, dec around. 30 sc.
12. Round 12: Sc 3, dec around. 24 sc.
13. Stuff firmly but keep the top flat.
14. Round 13: Sc 2, dec around. 18 sc.
15. Round 14: Sc 1, dec around. 12 sc.
16. Round 15: Dec around. 6 sc.
17. FO and close.

Place the stool slightly forward of the vanity. Sew it to the suitcase floor if this piece will be moved often.

Left Blush Bench or Storage Cushion

The left side of the suitcase includes a small blush upholstered-looking piece. It can be interpreted as a tiny chaise, bench, or storage cushion. It adds balance to the scene and fills the left front corner.

1. With blush yarn, ch 14.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 13 sc.
3. Rows 2-10: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 13 sc.
4. Work 1 round of sc around the rectangle, placing 3 sc in each corner.
5. FO, leaving a long tail.

Bench Side Roll

1. With blush yarn, MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Sc in each st around. 6 sc.
3. Rounds 3-13: Sc in each st around. 6 sc.
4. FO and lightly stuff.
5. Sew the roll along the back or side edge of the bench cushion.

Sew the blush bench to the left side of the suitcase floor. Add one small pearl bead on top if you want the ring-box detail shown near the left corner.

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Open Jewelry Dish

The small white oval dish near the front left corner adds a delicate vanity detail. It can hold a pearl bead or tiny crochet ring.

1. With white yarn, ch 7.
2. Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side: sc in next 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch. 14 sc.
3. Round 2: BLO sc in each st around. 14 sc.
4. Round 3: Sc in each st around. 14 sc.
5. FO and shape into a shallow oval bowl.

Sew the dish near the front left area. Add one pearl bead inside and secure it with thread so it does not roll out.

Tiny Lace Blanket

The image includes a small pale lace-like textile draped over the left area. To recreate it in crochet, use a simple open mesh rectangle in white or very pale cream.

1. With white yarn and a 2.75 mm hook, ch 22.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, skip 1 ch, sc in next ch. Repeat across. Turn.
3. Row 2: Ch 2, sc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 space across. Turn.
4. Rows 3-8: Repeat Row 2.
5. Border: Ch 1, work sc evenly around all sides, placing 3 sc in each corner.
6. FO and weave in ends.

Drape the blanket over the blush bench or fold it near the jewelry dish. Tack only one corner if you want it to look loose and natural.

Small Framed Wall Portrait

The lid wall has a tiny framed portrait on the upper right. Use a small printed picture, embroidered oval, or simple crochet center. The frame should be tan-gold with a cream inner center.

Portrait Center

1. With cream yarn, ch 7.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 6 sc.
3. Rows 2-7: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 6 sc.
4. FO.

Gold Frame

1. Join tan yarn to one corner of the portrait center.
2. Round 1: Sc evenly around, placing 3 sc in each corner.
3. Round 2: BLO sc in each st around.
4. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Use black and pink thread to embroider a tiny face-like oval or floral suggestion in the center. Keep it simple. Sew the framed portrait to the upper right section of the lid panel.

Swan Body

The swan has a rounded white body, a long graceful neck, a soft head, black facial markings, a peach beak, and a tan-gold skirt around the lower body. Work the body firmly so it can stand upright inside the parlor.

1. With white yarn and a 2.75 mm hook, MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc 1, inc around. 18 sc.
4. Round 4: Sc 2, inc around. 24 sc.
5. Round 5: Sc 3, inc around. 30 sc.
6. Round 6: Sc 4, inc around. 36 sc.
7. Rounds 7-12: Sc in each st around. 36 sc.
8. Round 13: Sc 4, dec around. 30 sc.
9. Rounds 14-15: Sc in each st around. 30 sc.
10. Round 16: Sc 3, dec around. 24 sc.
11. Round 17: Sc in each st around. 24 sc.
12. Round 18: Sc 2, dec around. 18 sc.
13. Stuff firmly, shaping the bottom slightly flat.
14. Round 19: Sc 1, dec around. 12 sc.
15. Round 20: Dec around. 6 sc.
16. FO and close.

Flatten the bottom gently against your work surface while the stuffing is still adjustable. This helps the swan sit or stand securely in the suitcase.

Swan Neck

The neck curves forward and upward. It should be slim but strong. Insert a folded pipe cleaner only if the item is decorative and not for young children.

1. With white yarn, MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sc.
2. Rounds 2-18: Sc in each st around. 6 sc.
3. Round 19: Sc 1, inc around. 9 sc.
4. Round 20: Sc in each st around. 9 sc.
5. FO, leaving a long tail.

Stuff the neck lightly with small pinches of fiberfill. Do not overstuff, or the neck will become bulky. Shape it into a gentle S curve before sewing it to the front top of the body.

Swan Head

1. With white yarn, MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc 1, inc around. 18 sc.
4. Rounds 4-7: Sc in each st around. 18 sc.
5. Round 8: Sc 1, dec around. 12 sc.
6. Stuff lightly.
7. Round 9: Dec around. 6 sc.
8. FO and close.

Sew the head to the top of the neck. Tilt it slightly downward and to one side, matching the sweet vanity-parlor pose in the image.

Swan Beak

1. With peach yarn, ch 4.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch. 3 sts.
3. FO, leaving a long tail.
4. Fold slightly and sew to the front lower area of the head.

Black Face Marking and Eyes

The swan in the image has a black marking around the beak and small dark eyes. Embroidery gives the best control at this size.

1. Use black embroidery thread to stitch a small curved patch on each side of the beak base.
2. Make one black eye on each side of the head, about 2 rounds above the beak.
3. Add one tiny white stitch on each eye if you want a glossy highlight.
4. Use blush pink thread to add a tiny cheek stitch below each eye.

Swan Wings

Make two white wings. They should be long, soft, and teardrop shaped, resting down the sides of the swan body.

1. With white yarn, MR, 6 sc in ring. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Sc 1, inc around. 9 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc 2, inc around. 12 sc.
4. Rounds 4-8: Sc in each st around. 12 sc.
5. Round 9: Sc 2, dec around. 9 sc.
6. Round 10: Sc 1, dec around. 6 sc.
7. Do not stuff. Flatten the wing.
8. Sc through both layers across the top to close.
9. FO, leaving a long tail.
10. Repeat for the second wing.

Sew one wing to each side of the body. The pointed ends should angle downward, and the upper edges should sit just below the neck.

Swan Feet

The feet are mostly hidden under the skirt, but small cream or pale peach feet help stabilize the swan.

1. With peach or cream yarn, ch 5.
2. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, 4 dc in last ch.
3. Work on the other side: dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch.
4. Sl st to join and FO.
5. Repeat for the second foot.

Sew the feet under the body, slightly toward the front. Keep them mostly concealed by the skirt.

Golden Swan Skirt

The tan-gold skirt wraps around the lower body and creates the dressed-up vanity look. It should flare gently, with visible crochet rows like the image.

1. With tan or antique gold yarn, ch 31.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 30 sc.
3. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 30 sc.
4. Row 3: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. 30 hdc.
5. Row 4: Ch 2, turn, hdc 2, inc hdc in next st. Repeat across. 40 hdc.
6. Row 5: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. 40 hdc.
7. Row 6: Ch 2, turn, hdc 3, inc hdc in next st. Repeat across. 50 hdc.
8. Row 7: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across. 50 hdc.
9. Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 50 sc.
10. FO, leaving a long tail.

Wrap the skirt around the lower body with Row 1 at the waist. Overlap the back edges slightly and sew them together. Tack the waist to the swan body in several places, but let the lower edge flare outward.

Pink Neck Bow

The swan wears a soft pale pink bow at the neck. Use ribbon for the most accurate look. Crochet a bow if you prefer an all-yarn finish.

Ribbon Bow Option

1. Cut a 9-inch length of pale pink ribbon.
2. Tie it around the base of the swan neck.
3. Adjust the loops so they sit at the front.
4. Trim the tails at an angle.
5. Add one hidden stitch through the knot to secure.

Crochet Bow Option

1. With blush yarn, ch 16.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 15 sc.
3. Rows 2-4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 15 sc.
4. FO and weave in ends.
5. Wrap yarn around the center 8 times to cinch into a bow.
6. Sew to the front of the swan neck.

Positioning the Swan

Place the swan on the right side of the suitcase, facing slightly toward the vanity. The body should sit close to the right wall, with the skirt touching the floor. Sew through the bottom of the body and feet into the suitcase floor if the display needs to be stable.

Small Cream Wall Flowers

The back wall has several small roses near the lower edge and right corner. Use the rose pattern above, making three blush roses and two cream roses for the wall.

1. Sew one blush rose near the lower left corner of the lid.
2. Sew one cream rose beside it.
3. Sew two blush roses near the lower right corner, behind the swan.
4. Add one cream rose between the blush roses for balance.
5. Add tiny green leaves only where visible.

Adding Pearl Details

Pearls make this project look like a miniature perfume parlor. Use them sparingly so the scene stays elegant.

• Add one pearl bead to the vanity drawer front.
• Add one pearl inside the jewelry dish.
• Add tiny pearls around the mirror frame if desired.
• Add one pearl to the blush bench as a ring detail.
• Secure every bead firmly with thread, not glue alone.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Check that the suitcase base sits flat on the table.
2. Sew the vanity table to the back wall and floor.
3. Sew the mirror above the table, centered and upright.
4. Attach perfume bottles, comb, stool, bench, jewelry dish, blanket, roses, and portrait.
5. Place the swan on the right side and sew it securely to the floor.
6. Adjust the bow so the loops face forward.
7. Embroider the swan eyes, black beak marking, and blush cheeks last.

When the face is finished, step back and check the expression. The swan should look gentle and elegant, not surprised. Keep the eyes small, the cheek stitches soft, and the black facial marking neat.

Care Notes

This project is best used as a decorative display. Because it includes small parts, beads, optional wire lights, and reinforced panels, it is not intended as a toy for babies or young children.

• Spot clean only with a slightly damp cloth.
• Do not machine wash.
• Keep away from open flame and heat sources.
• Remove batteries from fairy lights before long-term storage.
• Store upright so the lid and vanity mirror do not bend.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The suitcase lid stands upright and does not fall backward.
• The front scalloped trim is centered across the outside wall.
• The vanity table is firmly attached to the floor and back wall.
• The oval mirror sits straight above the vanity.
• The perfume bottles are secured to the tabletop.
• The stool is placed in front of the vanity.
• The swan is positioned on the right side with the bow facing forward.
• All roses, pearls, and small details are tightly sewn.
• Fairy lights are cool, battery-operated, and safely attached.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the soft crochet texture, dust the piece gently with a clean makeup brush or soft paintbrush. Work around the roses, mirror, swan face, and perfume bottles carefully so small details do not loosen.

If a spot appears on the cream yarn, use cool water on a white cloth and dab gently. Do not rub the stitches. Allow the piece to air dry completely before placing it back on display.

For long-term storage, wrap the parlor loosely in acid-free tissue paper or clean cotton fabric. Avoid crushing the lid, mirror, bow, or swan neck. Store it in a dry box away from direct sunlight to prevent fading of the blush pink and cream yarn.