This sweet crochet jewelry box opens like a tiny spring flower shop, with a cream suitcase-style base, upright back wall, string lights, two arched windows, and a hanging “Bloom Cart” sign. Inside sits a wheeled flower cart filled with tulips, daisies, lavender stems, baby’s breath, paper rolls, a potted plant, watering can, wrapped gift, picnic bundles, and a duckling shopkeeper in a blue coat and brown hat.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Pattern Overview
This free crochet pattern is written in US crochet terms and is designed as a decorative amigurumi jewelry box. The finished piece has a soft rectangular suitcase shape with a low front wall and a tall upright back wall, just like the image. The duckling stands outside the box and holds the flower cart handle.
The project combines amigurumi, flat panel crochet, embroidery, and small decorative pieces. The jewelry box is stabilized with plastic canvas or thin cardboard so the base, walls, and lid stay upright. Most pieces are worked with a 2.5 mm hook for firm stitches.
Finished size will vary slightly with yarn tension. Using DK weight cotton yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, the finished jewelry box measures about 9 in wide, 5 in deep, and 6 in tall when open. The duckling is about 4.25 in tall including the hat.
Skill Level
Intermediate beginner to intermediate. A confident beginner can follow this pattern if they are comfortable with single crochet, increases, decreases, crocheting flat panels, sewing pieces together, and working small details.
Materials
- DK weight cotton yarn in cream, pale yellow, light blue, beige, tan, brown, dark brown, white, yellow, green, dark green, pink, red, purple, lavender, soft blue, dusty rose, gray, and peach-orange.
- 2.5 mm crochet hook for most parts.
- 2.0 mm crochet hook for tiny flowers, light bulbs, embroidery details, and labels.
- 6 mm black safety eyes for the duckling, or black embroidery thread.
- Fiberfill stuffing.
- Plastic canvas, thin cardboard, or firm felt for box support.
- Tapestry needle.
- Stitch markers.
- Scissors.
- Sewing pins.
- Small amount of white felt or white yarn for window crossbars and sign letters.
- Optional: fabric glue for securing tiny decorations.
Abbreviations
- MR = magic ring
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- inc = 2 sc in the same stitch
- dec = invisible single crochet decrease
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- st = stitch
- sts = stitches
- FO = fasten off
- R = round or row
Gauge and Stitch Style
For the amigurumi pieces, use tight single crochet stitches so the stuffing does not show. The duckling, cart, and accessories should feel firm but not stiff. For the jewelry box panels, work evenly and keep your stitch height consistent so the panels sit flat against the stabilizer.
- Gauge for box panels: 8 sc and 9 rows measure about 1 in.
- Gauge for amigurumi rounds: 8 sc measure about 1 in across.
- Use a smaller hook if your stitches are loose.
- Use a larger hook only if your fabric becomes too stiff to sew.
Important Construction Notes
The jewelry box is built from separate cream crochet panels. Each panel is crocheted first, then wrapped around a matching plastic canvas or cardboard insert. This creates the rounded but firm suitcase shape seen in the photo.
The upright back wall is attached to the rear edge of the base at about a 95-degree angle. This slight backward lean helps the lid stay open and gives room for the flower cart and decorations inside.
The front wall is lower than the back wall so the flower cart and accessories remain visible. The side walls are medium height and join the front wall to the back wall, forming a shallow open box.
Jewelry Box Base Panel
Use cream yarn and the 2.5 mm hook. This rectangular panel forms the bottom floor of the jewelry box. Work in rows, chaining 1 and turning at the end of each row.
- Ch 43.
- R1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and across. 42 sts.
- R2-R38: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 42 sts.
- FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.
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Cut one plastic canvas rectangle measuring about 8.75 in wide by 4.75 in deep. Place it behind the crochet panel. Make a second identical cream panel by repeating R1-R38. Sandwich the stabilizer between both panels.
Join the two panels by working sc evenly around all four edges through both layers. Work 3 sc in each corner. FO and weave in the end. This creates a firm padded floor.
Low Front Wall
The front wall is the rounded cream border visible at the front of the jewelry box. It is low enough to show the stone path and accessories inside.
- Ch 43.
- R1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and across. 42 sts.
- R2-R12: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 42 sts.
- FO and make a second matching panel.
Cut plastic canvas to match the front wall, about 8.75 in wide by 1.5 in tall. Sandwich it between the two crochet panels. Sc around the edges through both layers, placing 3 sc in each corner. FO and leave a long tail.
Side Walls
Make two matching side walls in cream yarn. Each side wall is a short rectangular panel that connects the front wall to the upright back wall.
- Ch 24.
- R1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and across. 23 sts.
- R2-R12: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 23 sts.
- FO and make three more panels for two double-layer side walls.
Cut two plastic canvas pieces about 4.75 in wide by 1.5 in tall. Sandwich each insert between two crochet panels. Sc around the edges through both layers, placing 3 sc in each corner. Leave a long tail on each side wall for sewing.
Upright Back Wall and Lid Panel
The back wall is the tall cream panel behind the flower cart. It includes the two arched windows, garland lights, and the “Bloom Cart” sign. It should look like the inside of a suitcase lid.
- Ch 45.
- R1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and across. 44 sts.
- R2-R42: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 44 sts.
- FO and make a second matching panel.
Cut one plastic canvas rectangle about 9 in wide by 5.5 in tall. Round the top two corners slightly with scissors so the final wall has the soft rounded suitcase shape shown in the image.
Place the insert between the two cream panels. Sc around the sides and top through both layers. On each upper corner, work 3 sc closely together to create a rounded corner. Leave the bottom edge unclosed until after sewing it to the base.
Raised Cream Border Around Back Wall
The image shows a thick rounded border around the upright back wall. This border frames the cream wall and gives the jewelry box a padded suitcase appearance.
- Join cream yarn at the lower left corner of the back wall.
- Round 1: Sc evenly up the left side, across the rounded top, and down the right side. Place extra sc on the curved corners so the edge stays smooth.
- Round 2: Ch 1, turn, sc back along the same edge, working 3 sc into each upper corner area.
- Round 3: Repeat one more sc row for a thick soft rim.
- FO and weave in ends.
Assembling the Box Shell
Pin the front wall to the front edge of the base. Sew through the bottom stitches of the front wall and the outer loops of the base edge. Keep the wall standing upright and centered.
Attach the two side walls in the same way. Their front edges should touch the front wall corners. Their back edges should align with the back edge of the base.
Attach the upright back wall last. Sew the bottom edge of the back wall to the rear edge of the base. Sew side edges of the back wall to the rear ends of the side walls. Keep the back wall slightly leaning backward.
Interior Stone Path
The floor inside the jewelry box has a soft gray stone path. Use gray yarn and the 2.0 mm hook. Make small oval stones in several sizes and sew them to the center floor.
Small Stone
- Ch 4.
- R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next st, 3 sc in last ch. Work on opposite side of chain: sc in next st, 2 sc in last st. 8 sts.
- Sl st to first sc, FO.
Medium Stone
- Ch 5.
- R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 sts, 3 sc in last ch. Work on opposite side: sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in last st. 10 sts.
- Sl st to first sc, FO.
Make 10 small stones and 8 medium stones. Arrange them in a loose walkway from the front center toward the flower cart. Sew them flat with gray yarn.
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Duckling Body
The duckling has a round yellow head, small yellow wings, peach-orange beak and feet, a light blue jacket, and a brown garden hat. Work the body in pale yellow first.
- R1: With pale yellow, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
- R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
- R4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
- R5-R9: Sc around. 24 sts.
- R10: Sc 6, inc, sc 11, inc, sc 5. 26 sts.
- R11-R15: Sc around. 26 sts.
- R16: Sc 11, dec, sc 11, dec. 24 sts.
- R17: Sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
- Stuff firmly.
- R18: Sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
- R19: Dec around. 6 sts.
- FO and close the opening.
Duckling Head
The head is larger than the body and slightly round, matching the cute chubby look in the image. Use pale yellow yarn.
- R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
- R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
- R4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
- R5: Sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
- R6: Sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
- R7-R14: Sc around. 36 sts.
- Insert safety eyes between R10 and R11, about 8 sts apart.
- R15: Sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
- R16: Sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
- R17: Sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
- Stuff firmly, shaping the cheeks round.
- R18: Sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
- R19: Dec around. 6 sts.
- FO and close.
Sew the head to the body with the face turned slightly toward the flower cart. Add a few extra stitches at the back of the neck so the head sits securely.
Duckling Beak
The beak is small, peach-orange, and points outward from the face.
- Ch 5 with peach-orange yarn.
- R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 sts, 3 sc in last ch. Work on opposite side: sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in last st. 10 sts.
- R2: Sc around. 10 sts.
- FO, lightly flatten, and sew between the eyes over R11-R12.
Duckling Wings
Make two pale yellow wings. They peek out from the short blue sleeves.
- R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
- R3-R5: Sc around. 9 sts.
- R6: Sc 1, dec, repeat around. 6 sts.
- Flatten, do not stuff.
- FO, leaving a sewing tail.
Sew one wing to each side of the body, starting at R10 of the body. The front wing should angle forward so it can touch the flower cart handle.
Duckling Feet
Make two tiny peach-orange feet. They are visible at the bottom of the duckling, just like the image.
- Ch 4.
- R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, 3 hdc in last ch. Work on opposite side: hdc in next ch, sc in last ch. 7 sts.
- FO and leave a tail.
Sew the feet under the body, about 4 sts apart. Point the toes slightly outward for a stable standing pose.
Blue Jacket
The jacket is worked as a removable-looking layer over the duckling body. Use light blue yarn. It should cover the body from the shoulders to the lower belly.
- Ch 29.
- R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 28 sts.
- R2-R5: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 28 sts.
- R6: Ch 1, turn, sc 6, ch 5, skip 5 sts, sc 6, ch 5, skip 5 sts, sc 6. This creates arm openings.
- R7: Ch 1, turn, sc across, working 5 sc into each ch-5 space. 28 sts.
- R8-R10: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 28 sts.
- FO and leave a long tail.
Wrap the jacket around the duckling body with the opening at the front. Sew the back seam lightly. Fold the top corners outward to form a collar and tack them down with two small stitches.
Jacket Sleeves
- Join light blue yarn around one armhole.
- R1: Work 10 sc evenly around the opening. 10 sts.
- R2-R4: Sc around. 10 sts.
- FO and repeat for the second sleeve.
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Brown Garden Hat
The duckling wears a small brown rounded hat with a darker brim and a pale blue band. The hat sits slightly tilted on top of the head.
Hat Crown
- R1: With tan-brown yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
- R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
- R4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
- R5: BLO sc around. 24 sts.
- R6-R8: Sc around. 24 sts.
- FO.
Hat Brim
- Join darker brown yarn to the front loop left from R5 of the crown.
- R1: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 32 sts.
- R2: Sc 3, inc, repeat around. 40 sts.
- R3: Sc around. 40 sts.
- FO and weave in ends.
With pale blue yarn, embroider one band around the base of the crown. Sew the hat to the duckling head at a slight angle.
Flower Cart Basket
The flower cart is beige and rectangular. It sits in the center of the jewelry box and has one visible brown wheel on the front side. The cart is filled tightly with flowers and rolled paper.
- With beige yarn, ch 25.
- R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 24 sts.
- R2-R12: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 24 sts.
- FO. This is the cart bottom.
Front and Back Cart Panels
- Ch 25.
- R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 24 sts.
- R2-R9: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 24 sts.
- FO and make 2 panels.
Side Cart Panels
- Ch 13.
- R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 12 sts.
- R2-R9: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 12 sts.
- FO and make 2 panels.
Sew the front, back, and side panels to the cart bottom. Use small whip stitches and keep the corners square. Lightly stuff the inside or add a small rectangle of felt so the flowers can stand upright.
Cart Top Rim
- Join beige yarn at one top corner.
- Sc evenly around the top edge of the cart.
- Work one more round of sc for a thicker rim.
- FO and weave in ends.
Cart Handles
The cart has two beige handles extending toward the duckling. Make them firm so the duckling can appear to hold them.
- With beige yarn, ch 18.
- Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st across. 17 sl sts.
- FO and make a second handle.
Sew one end of each handle to the front left side of the cart. Sew the other ends together near the duckling’s wing. Tack the duckling’s wing to the handle with matching yellow yarn.
Cart Wheel
The wheel is dark brown and sits on the visible front side of the cart. Add spokes with tan yarn.
- R1: With dark brown, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
- R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
- R4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
- R5: BLO sc around. 24 sts.
- FO, leaving a tail.
Embroider 6 spokes from the center to the outer edge using tan yarn. Sew the wheel to the front center of the cart, slightly lower than the rim.
Tulips for the Cart
Make tulips in red, pink, yellow, and purple. Each tulip is made from a small oval bud and a green stem. The flowers should rise above the cart rim.
Tulip Bud
- R1: With flower color, 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
- R2: Inc around. 10 sts.
- R3: Sc around. 10 sts.
- R4: Sc 3, dec, repeat twice. 8 sts.
- R5: Sc around. 8 sts.
- Flatten top slightly.
- FO, leaving a tail.
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Use the yarn tail to sew three tiny points at the top of each tulip bud. Make 1 red, 1 pink, 1 pale pink, 1 yellow, and 1 purple tulip.
Tulip Stem
- With dark green yarn, ch 9.
- Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across. 8 sl sts.
- FO, leaving tails.
Sew one stem to each tulip bud. Sew the bottom of each stem inside the cart, grouping the tulips toward the left back side.
Lavender Stems
The purple lavender spikes stand tall behind the daisies. Make 4 lavender stems.
- With dark green yarn, ch 12.
- Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across. 11 sl sts.
- FO.
- Join purple yarn near the top of the stem.
- Work 5 small clusters down the upper half: ch 2, sl st around stem, ch 2, sl st around stem.
- FO and weave in carefully.
Sew the lavender stems upright near the back center of the cart. Vary the height slightly so they look natural.
Daisies
The white daisies sit at the front of the cart. They have yellow centers and small rounded petals. Make 5 daisies.
Daisy Center
- With yellow yarn and 2.0 mm hook, 6 sc in MR.
- Sl st to first sc, FO.
Daisy Petals
- Join white yarn to any stitch of the yellow center.
- Ch 3, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st into next center stitch.
- Repeat around until you have 6 petals.
- FO, leaving a long sewing tail.
Sew a green stem behind each daisy by chaining 8 with dark green yarn and slip stitching back along the chain. Attach daisies across the front of the cart.
Baby’s Breath Flowers
The image shows small white dot flowers filling the cart. These tiny flowers soften the arrangement and make the cart look full.
- With white yarn, ch 2.
- Work 4 sc into the 2nd ch from hook.
- Sl st to first sc and FO.
Make 14 tiny white blossoms. For stems, use dark green yarn and make short chains of 5 to 7 sts. Sew the white blossoms to the stem tops and place them between the larger flowers.
Rolled Wrapping Papers
Two pastel paper rolls stand behind the flowers, one soft blue and one dusty pink. Each roll has a cream top edge.
Paper Roll
- With pastel yarn, ch 9.
- R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 8 sts.
- R2-R10: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 8 sts.
- FO, leaving a long tail.
- Roll the rectangle tightly into a tube and sew the side closed.
Make one soft blue roll and one dusty pink roll. With cream yarn, embroider a slanted top stripe on each roll. Add tiny white dots on the pink roll and tiny white short stitches on the blue roll.
Back Wall Arched Windows
The back wall has two small arched windows, one on each side of the sign. Use light beige yarn for the window shape and white yarn for the crossbars.
Window Shape
- With light beige yarn, ch 7.
- R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 6 sts.
- R2-R4: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 6 sts.
- R5: Ch 1, turn, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1. 6 sts.
- FO, leaving a sewing tail.
Make two windows. Sew them to the back wall, one on the left and one on the right, about 12 rows above the base and 7 sts away from the side edges.
Using white yarn, embroider one vertical line and one horizontal line across each window to create four panes. Keep the stitches straight and slightly raised.
Bloom Cart Hanging Sign
The sign is centered on the back wall. It is brown with white embroidered words and two tan hanging straps.
- With medium brown yarn, ch 14.
- R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 13 sts.
- R2-R7: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 13 sts.
- FO, leaving a sewing tail.
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Using white yarn, embroider the words “Bloom Cart” on the sign. Work slowly with small straight stitches. Place “Bloom” on the upper line and “Cart” on the lower line.
Sew the sign to the center of the back wall. With tan yarn, embroider two diagonal hanging straps from the upper corners of the sign to a point above it, forming a triangle.
String Lights
The string lights curve across the upper back wall. Use dark brown yarn for the cord and yellow yarn for the bulbs.
Light Cord
With dark brown yarn, embroider a loose wavy line across the upper back wall. Start near the upper left corner, dip gently down, rise above the sign, dip again, and finish near the upper right corner.
Yellow Bulbs
- With yellow yarn and 2.0 mm hook, 5 sc in MR.
- R2: Sc around. 5 sts.
- FO and close.
Make 7 small bulbs. Sew them along the cord, spaced evenly. Place one bulb near each side, one above each window area, and three across the center.
Potted Plant
A small terracotta pot with green leaves sits on the right side of the jewelry box. It adds height and balances the flower cart.
Pot
- R1: With terracotta yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
- R3: BLO sc around. 12 sts.
- R4-R6: Sc around. 12 sts.
- R7: FLO sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
- FO.
Soil
- With dark brown yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
- FO and sew inside the pot opening.
Leaves
- With green yarn, ch 6.
- Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sl st in last ch.
- FO, leaving a tail.
Make 8 leaves. Sew them into the soil circle, arranging them upward and outward like the plant in the photo.
Mini Watering Can
The tiny blue watering can sits near the right side of the box. It has a round body, small handle, and short spout.
Watering Can Body
- R1: With soft blue yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
- R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
- R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
- R4-R6: Sc around. 18 sts.
- R7: Sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
- Stuff lightly.
- R8: Dec around. 6 sts.
- FO and close.
Watering Can Spout
- With soft blue yarn, ch 6.
- Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across. 5 sl sts.
- FO and sew to one side of the body at an upward angle.
Watering Can Handle
- With soft blue yarn, ch 9.
- Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across. 8 sl sts.
- FO and sew as a curved handle on the opposite side.
Wrapped Gift Box
The small gift is pale yellow with a purple ribbon and sits on the stone path near the watering can.
- With pale yellow yarn, ch 7.
- R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 6 sts.
- R2-R6: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 6 sts.
- FO and make 5 more squares.
Sew the squares together into a tiny cube. Stuff lightly before closing. With purple yarn, embroider one vertical ribbon and one horizontal ribbon around the cube. Add a tiny bow by making ch 4, sl st to center, ch 4, sl st to center, then sew to the top.
Picnic Fabric Rolls
On the lower right side, the image shows red checkered fabric bundles tied together. Crochet the base rolls and add red embroidery to create the checked look.
Fabric Roll
- With white yarn, ch 10.
- R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 9 sts.
- R2-R8: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 9 sts.
- FO, leaving a long tail.
Embroider red vertical and horizontal lines across the rectangle to make a gingham pattern. Roll the rectangle into a short bundle and sew closed. Make two bundles and place them side by side.
Use beige or tan yarn to make a small tie: ch 10, FO. Wrap it around the two bundles and knot or stitch it securely.
Mini Shelf or Bench Behind the Cart
A narrow beige ledge appears behind the flower cart inside the box. This piece gives depth to the scene and helps support the back decorations.
- With beige yarn, ch 33.
- R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 32 sts.
- R2-R5: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 32 sts.
- FO.
Fold the rectangle lengthwise and sew the long edge closed to create a padded strip. Sew it along the base of the back wall, behind the flower cart.
Optional Small Flower Stems for Extra Fullness
The flower cart in the image is very full. To create the same look, add several small green stems between the main flowers.
- With dark green yarn, ch 7.
- Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across. 6 sl sts.
- FO.
Make 8 to 12 extra stems. Sew them into empty spaces in the cart. Bend a few slightly left and right before sewing so the arrangement looks natural and rounded.
Flower Cart Arrangement Guide
- Place the red, pink, and purple tulips on the left side of the cart.
- Place the yellow tulip near the center front.
- Place the lavender stems tall in the back center.
- Place the daisies across the front edge.
- Place baby’s breath between the daisies and tulips.
- Place the two paper rolls at the right back side, angled outward.
After everything is pinned, sew each stem to the inner cart base. Use small stitches and hide knots inside the cart. The arrangement should look full but not overcrowded.
Positioning the Main Pieces
Set the flower cart slightly left of center inside the jewelry box. The cart wheel should face forward. The handles should extend toward the duckling outside the box on the left.
Place the duckling beside the left front corner of the box. Its head should face toward the flower cart. Sew the duckling feet lightly to the outside floor area or leave the duckling removable if preferred.
Place the potted plant near the right back corner. Place the watering can in front of the plant. Place the wrapped gift near the center right on the stone path. Place the picnic bundles at the lower right corner.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Sew the head securely to the body, then sew the jacket in place so it does not slide. Add the wings after the jacket so the yellow wing tips remain visible. Attach the front wing to the flower cart handle for the same storytelling pose as the image.
Embroider two small black eyelashes or short side stitches near the eyes if desired. Add a tiny curved smile under the beak with light brown embroidery thread. Keep facial details minimal so the duckling stays soft and gentle.
Check the back wall decorations before final sewing. The windows should sit evenly on both sides. The sign should be centered. The string lights should form a relaxed garland line across the top.
Care Notes
- Spot clean only with a damp cloth.
- Do not soak the jewelry box because the inner stabilizer may bend.
- Keep away from direct sunlight to prevent yarn colors from fading.
- Let the piece air dry fully before storing jewelry inside.
- This project is decorative and not recommended as a toy for children under 3 years because of small parts.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- The base is firm and flat.
- The front wall is lower than the back wall.
- The upright back wall has a thick rounded cream border.
- The “Bloom Cart” sign is centered.
- Both arched windows have white crossbars.
- Seven yellow string lights are sewn across the top.
- The flower cart is full with tulips, daisies, lavender, baby’s breath, and paper rolls.
- The duckling wears a blue jacket and brown hat.
- The potted plant, watering can, gift, and fabric rolls are placed on the right side.
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
To preserve the shape, store the jewelry box open in a dry place. Avoid pressing heavy objects against the upright back wall. If the wall begins to lean forward, gently reshape it with your hands and allow it to rest open overnight.
For dust, use a soft makeup brush or clean paintbrush. Brush around the flowers carefully so the petals and stems do not loosen. For deeper cleaning, dab only the affected area with cool water and a small amount of gentle soap.
Keep jewelry pieces dry before placing them inside the box. Sharp earrings or pins may catch on the crochet stitches, so place delicate jewelry in a small fabric pouch before storing it in the box.
Finishing Notes
Your Duckling Spring Flower Cart Jewelry Box is complete when the cream suitcase frame holds its shape, the flower cart sits securely in the center, and the duckling appears to be gently pulling the handle. The tiny flowers, sign, string lights, and accessories create the cozy spring shop scene shown in the image.

