Crochet Tutorial: Capybara Cozy Bathhouse Garden – Free Crochet Pattern.

This cozy crochet bathhouse scene features a relaxed capybara soaking in a rounded cream tub, soft white bubbles, a tiny towel on its head, hanging lantern balls, tied fabric curtains, a leafy vine-covered wooden frame, a ribbed green garden wall, spa shelves, candles, towels, citrus basket, slippers, stones, tea tray, potted plant, textured floor mat, and a small “Quiet Garden Bath” sign.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This free crochet pattern is written in US English crochet terms. The finished piece is a miniature garden bathhouse display, designed as a soft amigurumi diorama. The main focus is the capybara sitting in a warm bath, surrounded by cozy spa details and a calm garden corner.

The structure is made from separate crochet parts joined at the end. This makes the project easier to shape, especially for the upright frame, curtains, wall panel, furniture, tub, and small accessories. Work firmly so the stitches hold their form and the display stands neatly.

Finished Size

• Finished base: about 9 in wide x 8 in deep.
• Height to top beam: about 8 in.
• Capybara seated height: about 4 in including head towel.
• Bathtub: about 5 in wide x 3.5 in deep x 2 in tall.
• Gauge: 6 sc x 7 rounds = 1 in with sport or light worsted yarn and 2.5 mm hook.

Materials

• Sport weight or light worsted cotton yarn in warm beige, tan brown, dark brown, cream, off-white, sage green, moss green, soft gray, orange, yellow, and white.
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for most amigurumi pieces.
• 2.0 mm crochet hook for tiny leaves, sign letters, candle flames, and facial details.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Plastic canvas or firm cardboard for base, back wall, table top, and sign support.
• 6 mm safety eyes or black embroidery thread.
• Brown, black, and cream embroidery thread.
• Yarn needle, stitch markers, scissors, pins.
• Optional craft wire or pipe cleaners for the standing frame and hanging lantern cords.
• Optional fabric stiffener for curtains, vines, and sign.

Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• st: stitch
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: 2 sc in same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• RS: right side
• FO: fasten off

Important Notes Before You Start

Work most amigurumi pieces in continuous rounds unless the instruction says to join. Use a stitch marker at the first stitch of each round. Stuff gradually and firmly, but do not overstuff flat pieces like the tub rim, towels, curtain ties, table, and garden mat.

For the display to look like the image, keep the colors soft and natural. The capybara should be warm tan with darker ears and simple sleepy facial embroidery. The tub is cream beige, the frame is dark brown, the leafy vines are moss green, and the back spa wall is sage green.

Small accessories are important in this design. The lantern balls, folded towels, tray, cups, slippers, candles, oranges, pebbles, and plant pot help create the cozy bathhouse feeling. Make them with tight stitches so they remain miniature and rounded.

Base Garden Bath Mat

The base is a rectangular textured crochet mat with soft rounded corners. It should look like a woven spa rug or stone garden floor. Use light oatmeal beige yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

Base Rectangle

1. Ch 43.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 42 sc.
3. Row 2: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 42 sc.
4. Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first 4 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 8 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in last 12 sts. Turn. 42 sts.
5. Row 4: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 42 sc.
6. Rows 5-36: Repeat Rows 3 and 4, ending with a plain sc row.
7. Do not fasten off. Continue around the edge.

Rounded Border

1. Ch 1, work 40 sc evenly down the first long side.
2. Place 3 sc in the corner.
3. Work 42 sc across the short edge.
4. Place 3 sc in the corner.
5. Work 40 sc evenly up the second long side.
6. Place 3 sc in the corner.
7. Work 42 sc across the final short edge.
8. Place 3 sc in the last corner, sl st to first sc.
9. Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, placing 3 sc in each corner center stitch. Sl st to join. FO and weave ends.

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Cut a piece of plastic canvas or firm cardboard slightly smaller than the base. Place it under the mat during final assembly. This keeps the whole bathhouse flat and stable without changing the soft crochet look.

Green Ribbed Back Wall

The right back wall is a vertical sage green ribbed panel. It sits behind the tub and spa table. The ribbing should run from top to bottom like cozy crochet boards.

1. With sage green, ch 29.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 28 sc.
3. Row 2: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. 28 sc.
4. Rows 3-34: Repeat Row 2.
5. Border Round: Ch 1, sc evenly around the whole rectangle, placing 3 sc in each corner. Sl st to join. FO.

For a firm wall, make a second matching rectangle in plain sc or cut plastic canvas to fit. Sew or glue the ribbed panel over the support later. The finished wall should measure about 5 in wide and 5.5 in tall.

Wooden Bathhouse Frame

The bathhouse frame has two vertical brown posts and one horizontal top beam. A vine wraps across the beam and down both sides. The frame should stand behind the tub like a small open garden canopy.

Left and Right Vertical Posts

Make 2 in dark brown.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sc.
3. Round 3: BLO sc around. 12 sc.
4. Rounds 4-36: Sc around. 12 sc.
5. Insert craft wire or a pipe cleaner if desired. Stuff lightly so the post stays narrow.
6. Round 37: Dec around. 6 sc.
7. FO, leaving a long tail. Close the top hole.

Top Horizontal Beam

1. With dark brown, ch 31.
2. Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 28 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the opposite side of the chain: sc in next 28 ch, 2 sc in last ch. 62 sc.
3. Rounds 2-6: Sc around. 62 sc.
4. Stuff lightly as you go, or insert a folded pipe cleaner for support.
5. Round 7: Sc around, shaping the beam into a soft rounded log.
6. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Small Knots on the Beam

Make 6 in medium brown.

1. Round 1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 10 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc around. 10 sc.
4. Round 4: Dec around. 5 sc.
5. FO and sew closed.

Sew the knots along the top beam, spacing them evenly. Place them slightly forward so they show clearly under the vine. They create the small rounded wood details visible across the top bar.

Leafy Garden Vine

The vine travels along the top beam and trails down both sides of the frame. It should look organic and slightly loose, not perfectly straight. Use moss green yarn and the 2.0 mm hook for smaller leaves.

Main Vine Cord

1. Ch 95.
2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each ch across.
3. FO, leaving tails for sewing.

Small Leaves

Make 28 to 34 leaves.

1. Ch 5.
2. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook.
3. Sc in next ch.
4. Hdc in next ch.
5. Sc in last ch.
6. Ch 1, sl st into the same last ch to make a pointed end.
7. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Sew leaves randomly along the vine, placing some upward, some downward, and some outward. Keep more leaves at the corners and near the side posts. This gives the bathhouse the same garden-covered look as the reference image.

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Cream Hanging Curtains

The curtains are soft cream panels tied to the side posts. They frame the capybara and tub without hiding the scene. Make the fabric with loose vertical ridges so it resembles gathered linen.

Left Curtain Panel

1. With cream, ch 19.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 18 sc.
3. Row 2: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. 18 sc.
4. Rows 3-25: Repeat Row 2.
5. Row 26: Ch 1, sc across. FO.

Center Curtain Panel

1. With cream, ch 17.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 16 sc.
3. Row 2: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. 16 sc.
4. Rows 3-23: Repeat Row 2.
5. Row 24: Ch 1, sc across. FO.

Curtain Top Loops

For each curtain, join cream yarn at the top edge. Ch 4, skip 2 edge stitches, sl st into the next edge stitch. Repeat across. These small loops let the curtain appear hung from the top beam.

Curtain Ties

Make 2.

1. With light beige, ch 24.
2. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and across.
3. FO and weave one end only.

During assembly, gather each curtain inward at the middle and wrap one tie around it. Knot the tie behind the curtain. The tied curtain should narrow in the center and flare softly at the top and bottom.

Oval Cream Bathtub

The bathtub is an oval bowl with a raised rim. It sits near the center-left of the base and holds the capybara. Use warm cream or light beige yarn. Crochet firmly so the tub keeps its rounded shape.

Oval Tub Bottom

1. Ch 17.
2. Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 14 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Work on opposite side: sc in next 14 ch, 2 sc in last ch. 34 sc.
3. Round 2: Inc, sc 14, inc in next 3 sts, sc 14, inc in next 2 sts. 40 sc.
4. Round 3: Sc 1, inc, sc 14, repeat sc 1, inc three times, sc 14, repeat sc 1, inc twice. 46 sc.
5. Round 4: Sc 2, inc, sc 14, repeat sc 2, inc three times, sc 14, repeat sc 2, inc twice. 52 sc.
6. Round 5: BLO sc around. 52 sc.

Tub Sides

1. Rounds 6-10: Sc around. 52 sc.
2. Round 11: Sc 12, inc, sc 25, inc, sc 13. 54 sc.
3. Rounds 12-14: Sc around. 54 sc.
4. Round 15: FLO sc around to create the outside rim line. 54 sc.
5. Round 16: Sc around. 54 sc.
6. FO and weave in the tail.

Thick Rolled Tub Rim

1. With cream, ch 55.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 54 sc.
3. Rows 2-5: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 54 sc.
4. Fold the strip lengthwise. Sl st the long edges together to make a soft tube.
5. FO, leaving a very long tail.

Sew the rolled rim around the top edge of the bathtub. Curve it smoothly and overlap the ends at the back. Add a little stuffing inside the rim before closing if you want a puffier bath edge.

Bath Foam and Bubbles

The foam is made from loose white puffs and small crochet bubbles. It should sit around the capybara’s body, filling the tub without hiding the face and arms.

Large Foam Puffs

Make 8 in white.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc around. 12 sc.
4. Round 4: Dec around. 6 sc.
5. Stuff very lightly. FO and close.

Small Foam Puffs

Make 10 in white.

1. Round 1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 10 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc around. 10 sc.
4. Round 4: Dec around. 5 sc.
5. FO and close.

You may also add a few small pieces of unspun white fiberfill between the crochet bubbles. Do not glue the foam until the capybara is placed, because you need to position the arms above the bath edge.

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Capybara Amigurumi

The capybara is seated inside the tub with only the head, upper body, and small arms visible. It has a rounded snout, tiny ears, sleepy embroidered eyes, and a calm smile. Use warm tan yarn for the main body.

Head and Body

Work from the top of the head down into the seated body.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc 1, inc around. 18 sc.
4. Round 4: Sc 2, inc around. 24 sc.
5. Round 5: Sc 3, inc around. 30 sc.
6. Round 6: Sc 4, inc around. 36 sc.
7. Rounds 7-12: Sc around. 36 sc.
8. Round 13: Sc 10, inc in next 4 sts, sc 22. 40 sc.
9. Round 14: Sc around. 40 sc.
10. Round 15: Sc 10, dec 4 times, sc 22. 36 sc.
11. Round 16: Sc 4, dec around. 30 sc.
12. Round 17: Sc 3, dec around. 24 sc.
13. Stuff the head firmly, shaping the front snout area with your fingers.
14. Round 18: FLO sc around to begin the shoulder ledge. 24 sc.
15. Round 19: Sc 3, inc around. 30 sc.
16. Rounds 20-24: Sc around. 30 sc.
17. Round 25: Sc 3, dec around. 24 sc.
18. Round 26: Sc 2, dec around. 18 sc.
19. Stuff the body lightly because it will sit inside the tub.
20. Round 27: Sc 1, dec around. 12 sc.
21. Round 28: Dec around. 6 sc.
22. FO and close.

Snout Muzzle Patch

Make 1 in slightly lighter tan.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc 1, inc around. 18 sc.
4. Round 4: Sc around. 18 sc.
5. FO, leaving a long tail.

Sew the muzzle patch to the lower front of the head between Rounds 10 and 16. Flatten it slightly while sewing so it becomes an oval snout. Embroider a dark brown vertical nose line and a soft curved smile.

Ears

Make 2 in medium brown or darker tan.

1. Round 1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 10 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc around. 10 sc.
4. Round 4: Sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec. 8 sc.
5. Do not stuff. Flatten and FO, leaving a tail.

Sew the ears on top of the head around Rounds 5-7, spaced about 9 stitches apart. Angle them slightly outward, matching the small rounded ears seen on the capybara in the bath.

Arms

Make 2 in tan.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Sc 1, inc around. 9 sc.
3. Rounds 3-8: Sc around. 9 sc.
4. Stuff only the paw end.
5. Round 9: Flatten and sc through both layers across. 4 sc.
6. FO, leaving a tail.

Sew the arms to the front sides of the body around Rounds 19-22. Let them rest over the tub rim. The capybara should look like it is calmly holding the edge of the bath.

Facial Embroidery

• Place sleepy eyes between Rounds 10 and 11, about 7 stitches apart. Use short black horizontal stitches.
• Embroider the nose on the muzzle with dark brown thread using 3 short vertical stitches.
• Add a small curved mouth on each side of the nose line.
• Add two tiny cheek stitches in a slightly darker tan if desired.

Folded Head Towel

The capybara wears a small white towel folded on top of its head. It should look like a spa towel roll, soft and rectangular.

1. With white, ch 13.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 12 sc.
3. Rows 2-7: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. 12 sc.
4. Row 8: Ch 1, sc across. FO, leaving a long tail.
5. Fold the rectangle in thirds lengthwise, then roll one short edge slightly inward.
6. Sew the folded towel together underneath so the top remains puffy.

Sew or tack the towel to the capybara’s head between the ears. Keep the front edge slightly raised so the towel looks plush and layered.

Hanging Lantern Balls

The bathhouse has round cream lanterns hanging from the top beam. Make four lanterns in soft ivory or pale yellow. Vary their heights so they look natural.

Lantern Ball

Make 4.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc 1, inc around. 18 sc.
4. Round 4: Sc 2, inc around. 24 sc.
5. Rounds 5-8: Sc around. 24 sc.
6. Round 9: Sc 2, dec around. 18 sc.
7. Round 10: Sc 1, dec around. 12 sc.
8. Stuff firmly but keep round.
9. Round 11: Dec around. 6 sc.
10. FO and close.

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Lantern Hanging Cords

1. With cream or beige thread yarn, ch 10 for a short cord, ch 13 for a medium cord, and ch 16 for a longer cord.
2. Make 4 total cords in mixed lengths.
3. Sew one cord to each lantern top.

Attach lanterns to the underside of the top beam. In the image, two lanterns hang near the center, one hangs slightly lower, and one hangs toward the right side. Use that arrangement for the closest match.

Side Potted Plant

The potted plant sits at the front-left side of the frame. It has a small cream pot, dark soil, and blue-green leaves. This detail balances the tub and adds a fresh garden feeling.

Plant Pot

1. With cream, 6 sc in MR. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc 1, inc around. 18 sc.
4. Round 4: BLO sc around. 18 sc.
5. Rounds 5-8: Sc around. 18 sc.
6. Round 9: FLO sc around for rim. 18 sc.
7. Round 10: Sc around. FO.

Soil Disc

1. With dark brown, 6 sc in MR. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc 1, inc around. 18 sc.
4. FO and sew inside pot top.

Plant Stems and Leaves

• Make 5 stems by chaining 8 to 12 stitches in sage green, then sl st back along each chain.
• Make 12 small leaves using the same leaf pattern from the vine section.
• Sew 2 or 3 leaves to each stem.
• Sew stems into the soil disc, spreading them outward.

Spa Table

The small brown table stands on the right side. It holds candles and a little basket of oranges. Make the table low and rectangular so it fits under the green wall.

Table Top

1. With medium brown, ch 17.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 16 sc.
3. Rows 2-8: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 16 sc.
4. Border: Ch 1, sc evenly around, placing 3 sc in each corner. Sl st to join. FO.

Table Legs

Make 4.

1. With medium brown, 5 sc in MR. 5 sc.
2. Rounds 2-9: Sc around. 5 sc.
3. FO, leaving a tail.

Sew one leg under each corner of the table top. If the table feels soft, place a small piece of plastic canvas underneath the top before attaching the legs.

Folded Towels on Stand

Behind the tub is a small towel rack with stacked folded towels. Use white and soft gray-green yarn. The towels should appear rolled or folded in layers.

Vertical Rack Posts

Make 2 in brown.

1. Round 1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sc.
2. Rounds 2-18: Sc around. 5 sc.
3. FO, leaving tails.

Folded Towels

Make 4 rectangles.

1. Ch 12.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 11 sc.
3. Rows 2-5: Ch 1, BLO sc across. Turn. 11 sc.
4. FO and weave ends.

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Stack the folded towels between the two posts. Use three white towels and one pale sage towel for a close match. Sew the stack lightly so it stays together but still shows the layered folds.

Candles with Tiny Flames

The spa table has small white candles with warm yellow flames. Make three candles in different heights.

Candle Body

Make 3.

1. With white, 5 sc in MR. 5 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 10 sc.
3. Rounds 3-5 for short candle, Rounds 3-7 for medium candle, or Rounds 3-9 for tall candle: Sc around. 10 sc.
4. Round final: BLO dec around until closed.
5. FO and weave end.

Flame

Make 3 in yellow-orange.

1. Ch 4.
2. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook.
3. Sc in next ch.
4. Hdc in last ch.
5. FO, leaving a tail.

Sew one flame to the top of each candle. Attach candles to the right side of the table, grouping them together as shown in the bathhouse scene.

Orange Basket

The small basket of oranges sits on the table beside the candles. Use brown for the basket and orange yarn for the fruit.

Basket

1. With brown, ch 9.
2. Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch. Work opposite side: sc 6, 2 sc in last ch. 18 sc.
3. Round 2: BLO sc around. 18 sc.
4. Rounds 3-4: Sc around. 18 sc.
5. Round 5: Sl st around. FO.

Mini Oranges

Make 7.

1. With orange, 5 sc in MR. 5 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 10 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc around. 10 sc.
4. Round 4: Dec around. 5 sc.
5. FO and close.

Place the oranges inside the basket and sew or tack them in place. Add one tiny green stitch on two or three oranges for a leafy detail.

Tea Tray, Teapot, and Cups

The front-left tray holds a small teapot and two cups. This detail helps the scene feel peaceful and lived-in, like the capybara is enjoying a garden spa afternoon.

Rectangular Tray

1. With brown, ch 18.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 17 sc.
3. Rows 2-7: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 17 sc.
4. Border Round 1: Sc evenly around, placing 3 sc in each corner.
5. Border Round 2: BLO sc around to raise the rim.
6. FO and weave ends.

Small Teapot Body

1. With cream, 6 sc in MR. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sc.
3. Round 3: Sc 1, inc around. 18 sc.
4. Rounds 4-6: Sc around. 18 sc.
5. Round 7: Sc 1, dec around. 12 sc.
6. Stuff lightly.
7. Round 8: Dec around. 6 sc.
8. FO and close.

Teapot Lid

1. With cream, 5 sc in MR. 5 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 10 sc.
3. Round 3: Sl st around. FO.

Teapot Spout

1. With cream, ch 5.
2. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, sl st in last ch.
3. FO, leaving a tail.

Teapot Handle

1. With cream, ch 7.
2. Sl st in each ch across.
3. FO, leaving both tails for sewing.

Sew the lid on top, the spout on one side, and the curved handle on the opposite side. Embroider a tiny green line around the teapot if you want the subtle garden tea detail shown in the scene.

Cups

Make 2 in cream.

1. Round 1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 10 sc.
3. Round 3: BLO sc around. 10 sc.
4. Rounds 4-5: Sc around. 10 sc.
5. Round 6: Sl st around. FO.

For green tea inside each cup, make a tiny green disc with 5 sc in MR, sl st to join, then sew it inside the cup opening. Place cups beside the teapot on the tray.

Slippers

Two small cream slippers sit on the floor near the table. They are simple half-oval shapes with a raised strap.

Make 2 soles.

1. With beige, ch 8.
2. Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch. Work opposite side: sc 5, 2 sc in last ch. 16 sc.
3. Round 2: Inc, sc 5, inc in next 3 sts, sc 5, inc in next 2 sts. 22 sc.
4. FO and weave ends.

Make 2 straps.

1. With beige, ch 8.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 7 sc.
3. FO, leaving tails.

Sew each strap across the front half of a sole, leaving the middle slightly raised. Place the slippers side by side near the right front area of the bathhouse.

Spa Bottles

Small gray and white bath bottles sit near the towel rack. Make two to three bottles in pale gray, white, or cream.

1. Round 1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 10 sc.
3. Rounds 3-7: Sc around. 10 sc.
4. Round 8: BLO dec around. 5 sc.
5. Round 9: Sc around. 5 sc.
6. FO and close.

Embroider one horizontal stripe around each bottle with tan or sage yarn. Sew the bottles upright beside the folded towels or under the table.

Smooth Pebbles

Several gray pebbles decorate the floor around the tub and plant. Make them in soft gray and blue-gray, varying the size slightly.

Small Pebble

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sc.
2. Round 2: Inc around. 12 sc.
3. Rounds 3-4: Sc around. 12 sc.
4. Round 5: Dec around. 6 sc.
5. Stuff lightly and close.

Oval Pebble

1. Ch 6.
2. Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3, 3 sc in last ch. Work opposite side: sc 3, 2 sc in last ch. 12 sc.
3. Round 2: Sc around. 12 sc.
4. Round 3: Dec around. 6 sc.
5. Stuff lightly and close.

Make at least 6 pebbles. Arrange three near the potted plant, two near the tub front, and one or two near the tea tray to match the natural garden floor style.

Quiet Garden Bath Sign

The sign sits at the front-right edge. It is a cream rectangle with a brown border and the words “Quiet Garden Bath.” You can embroider the text or use simplified stitched letters.

Sign Panel

1. With cream, ch 19.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 18 sc.
3. Rows 2-10: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 18 sc.
4. Switch to brown for border.
5. Border: Ch 1, sc evenly around, placing 3 sc in each corner. Sl st to join. FO.

Sign Stand

1. With brown, ch 7.
2. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 6 sc.
3. Rows 2-3: Ch 1, sc across. FO.

Embroider “Quiet Garden Bath” using black or dark brown thread. Use short straight stitches for simple block letters. Keep the words centered and stacked in three lines, just like the sign in the picture.

Optional Small Wall Shelf

If you want the right wall to look fuller, add a small shelf behind the table. This is useful for supporting the candles and basket visually.

1. With brown, ch 16.
2. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. 15 sc.
3. Rows 2-3: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. 15 sc.
4. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Sew the shelf horizontally to the green wall behind the table. Place it about halfway up the wall, but do not cover the ribbed texture completely.

Assembly Order

Pin all major parts before sewing. This project has many small details, so checking the full layout first will help the finished bathhouse look balanced and close to the original image.

1. Place the base mat flat with the longer edge running left to right.
2. Sew or glue the green ribbed wall to the back-right side of the base.
3. Attach the two vertical posts at the back-left and back-right corners.
4. Sew the top beam across the posts. Reinforce the corners several times.
5. Attach the cream curtains to the top beam and tie them inward around the posts.
6. Wrap and sew the green vine across the beam and down the side posts.
7. Hang the lantern balls under the top beam with mixed cord lengths.
8. Place the bathtub slightly left of center and sew it securely to the base.
9. Set the capybara inside the tub, facing forward, and sew the lower body to the tub interior.
10. Add the foam puffs around the capybara, leaving the arms and face visible.
11. Attach the potted plant at the front-left corner near the post.
12. Place the towel rack behind the tub, slightly right of center.
13. Attach the spa table on the right side in front of the green wall.
14. Sew candles, orange basket, bottles, and folded towels in place.
15. Place slippers near the table and tea tray at the front-left area.
16. Sew pebbles around the floor in small natural clusters.
17. Attach the sign at the front-right edge, angled slightly toward the viewer.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

After the main scene is assembled, check the capybara’s face from the front. The expression should be peaceful and sleepy. Add one extra tiny stitch at each eye corner if the face looks too plain. Keep the mouth small and gentle.

Secure the towel on the head with two hidden stitches at the back and one stitch near each side. Check that the ears remain visible. The towel should sit between the ears, not cover them completely.

Shape the bubbles by lightly squeezing each puff after sewing. Place the largest bubbles at the front edge of the tub and smaller bubbles near the capybara’s arms. This creates depth and keeps the bath from looking flat.

Finally, adjust the vines and leaves. A few leaves should hang over the front of the beam, while others point upward or outward. Sew down any loose leaves that may curl too much.

Care Notes

• Spot clean only with cool water and mild soap.
• Do not soak the whole diorama, especially if you used cardboard or wire inside.
• Let the piece air dry completely in a shaded area.
• Keep away from direct sunlight to prevent fading.
• This is a decorative handmade item, not a toy for babies or pets.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The capybara is centered inside the tub and facing forward.
• The tub is firmly attached to the base.
• The frame stands straight and the top beam does not lean.
• The curtains are tied inward and do not hide the capybara.
• The vine has leaves along the top and sides.
• Four round lanterns hang at different heights.
• The green ribbed wall is visible behind the table.
• The sign reads “Quiet Garden Bath.”
• The tea tray, slippers, candles, oranges, towels, plant, bottles, and stones are all included.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Use a soft makeup brush or clean paintbrush to remove dust from the vines, lanterns, bubbles, and tiny accessories. Brush gently from top to bottom so dust does not collect inside the bathtub or under the table.

If a small stain appears, dampen a white cloth with cool water and touch only the stained area. Avoid rubbing embroidered words or facial details. Press with a dry towel afterward and allow the piece to dry naturally.

Store the bathhouse in a clear display box when not in use. If storing in a drawer, place tissue paper around the frame and lanterns so they do not bend. Keep the capybara’s face uncovered to protect the embroidery.

To refresh the shape, gently pinch the tub rim, fluff the bubbles, straighten the curtains, and lift the leaves with your fingers. Small handmade pieces may shift over time, but a few careful adjustments will bring the cozy garden bathhouse back to life.