Crochet Tutorial: Daisy Duck Sunflower Garden Dress Doll – Free Crochet Pattern.

This cheerful garden duck doll features a tall white neck, rounded head, bright orange beak, large embroidered blue eyes, a blue striped sunflower dress, a matching sunhat with yellow ribbon and daisy accent, orange legs, green sandals, a tiny watering can, a bee crossbody bag, and a small seed packet. The finished doll is designed as a detailed display amigurumi with many sweet garden accessories.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

• Doll height: about 15 inches from feet to top of hat.
• Head width: about 4.5 inches across.
• Dress width: about 7 inches across the lower hem.
• Watering can: about 2.25 inches wide.
• Bee bag: about 2 inches across.
• Seed packet: about 1.75 inches tall.

This pattern uses firm amigurumi tension so the neck stands straight and the dress keeps its bell shape. Use a smaller hook than the yarn label suggests. Stuff the neck very firmly, especially near the lower head and upper body connection.

Skill Level

Intermediate. The main shapes are simple, but the doll includes shaped beak pieces, a tall supported neck, dress striping, accessories, facial embroidery, and small flowers. Beginners can still follow the pattern if they work slowly and count every round carefully.

Materials

• Worsted weight yarn in white, orange, sky blue, yellow, dark brown, green, beige, light teal, red, black, and small amounts of pale pink.
• 3.0 mm crochet hook for the doll and dress.
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for flowers, eyes, seed packet, and small details.
• 12 mm safety eyes may be used, but embroidered eyes are recommended for the look shown.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Black embroidery thread.
• White embroidery thread for eye highlights.
• Thin flexible craft wire or pipe cleaner for neck support, optional but helpful.
• Three small red buttons, or crocheted button circles if preferred.
• Cardboard or plastic canvas circle for the hat brim and dress base, optional.

Abbreviations in US Terms

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st: stitch
• sts: stitches
• R: round or row
• FO: fasten off

Important Notes Before You Start

• Work most amigurumi parts in continuous rounds unless the pattern says to join.
• Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round.
• Stuff the head, neck, body, legs, and arms firmly but do not stretch the stitches open.
• The head and neck are one continuous white piece for strength.
• The dress is worked separately and fitted around the body so the blue and white stripes stay crisp.
• The hat is removable if you do not sew it down, but sewing it lightly gives the cleanest display finish.

Gauge

Using worsted weight yarn and a 3.0 mm hook, 6 sc and 6 rounds should measure about 1 inch. Exact gauge is not essential, but tight stitches are important. The beak and face details look best when the fabric is dense and smooth.

Main Doll: Head and Long Neck

Use white yarn and a 3.0 mm hook. Begin at the top of the head. The head is a rounded oval with a slightly tall face. The neck continues downward from the head and should be narrow, long, and firmly stuffed.

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Head

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. Do not join. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
9. R9: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts.
10. R10-R18: sc in each st around. 54 sts for 9 rounds.
11. R19: sc 7, dec, repeat around. 48 sts.
12. R20: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
13. R21: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
14. R22: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
15. R23: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.

Start stuffing the head firmly. Shape the front slightly flatter with your fingers because the beak will sit across the lower face. The upper face should remain round and smooth.

Neck

1. R24: sc in each st around. 24 sts.
2. R25: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
3. R26-R46: sc in each st around. 18 sts for 21 rounds.
4. R47: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R48: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R49: sc in each st around. 30 sts.

Insert a wrapped pipe cleaner or flexible wire support into the neck if desired. Cover any sharp wire ends with tape before inserting. Stuff the neck very firmly in small amounts. The neck should stand upright and curve only slightly forward.

Do not fasten off. Continue directly into the upper body.

Body

The body is smaller than the dress and hidden under the striped skirt. It should be pear-shaped, with a narrow shoulder area and a wider lower section to support the dress.

1. R50: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
2. R51: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
3. R52-R57: sc in each st around. 42 sts for 6 rounds.
4. R58: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
5. R59-R64: sc in each st around. 48 sts for 6 rounds.
6. R65: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
7. R66: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
8. R67: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
9. R68: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
10. R69: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
11. R70: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
12. R71: dec around. 6 sts.

Stuff the body firmly as you go. Close the bottom by weaving the yarn tail through the front loops of the final 6 stitches and pulling tight. Hide the yarn tail inside the body.

Orange Legs

Make two legs with orange yarn. Each leg is slim and straight, visible below the dress. The feet are wide and flat like duck feet, then sandals are added on top.

Feet and Legs

1. R1: ch 8. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side of the chain, sc 5, inc in last ch. 16 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 5, inc in next 3 sts, sc 5, inc in next 2 sts. 22 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 6, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 6, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 28 sts.
4. R4: BLO sc in each st around. 28 sts.
5. R5: sc 8, dec 6 times, sc 8. 22 sts.
6. R6: sc 6, dec 5 times, sc 6. 17 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, dec 3 times, sc 6. 14 sts.
8. R8-R24: sc in each st around. 14 sts for 17 rounds.

Stuff the foot firmly and the leg moderately. Flatten the top opening and sc through both layers with 7 sc. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Toe Shaping

With orange yarn and a yarn needle, make two shallow vertical indent lines on each foot. Insert the needle from the underside of the foot to the top front. Wrap the yarn gently over the foot and pull slightly to form three rounded toes. Repeat for the second indentation.

White Arms

Make two arms with white yarn. The arms are long and soft, hanging down the sides of the dress. They should be narrow at the wrist and slightly fuller near the shoulder.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 15 sts.
4. R4-R8: sc in each st around. 15 sts for 5 rounds.
5. R9: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
6. R10-R27: sc in each st around. 12 sts for 18 rounds.
7. R28: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 10 sts.
8. R29-R31: sc in each st around. 10 sts for 3 rounds.

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Stuff the lower hand area lightly and leave the upper arm almost flat. Flatten the top and sc through both layers with 5 sc. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Orange Beak

The beak is the most important facial feature. It has a wide upper beak, a curved lower beak, and an open darker orange mouth space. Use orange yarn for the outer beak and a darker orange shade for the inside mouth.

Upper Beak

1. R1: ch 13. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 11, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side, sc 10, inc in last ch. 26 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 10, inc in next 3 sts, sc 10, inc in next 2 sts. 32 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 10, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 10, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 38 sts.
4. R4: sc in each st around. 38 sts.
5. R5: sc 7, hdc 6, dc 6, hdc 6, sc 13. 38 sts.
6. R6: sc in each st around. 38 sts.

FO with a long sewing tail. Lightly stuff the center, but keep the side edges flat. The upper beak should look wide, soft, and slightly puffy across the lower face.

Lower Beak and Open Mouth

Use darker orange yarn for the inside mouth piece.

1. R1: ch 11. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 9, 3 sc in last ch. Work on other side, sc 8, inc in last ch. 22 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 8, inc in next 3 sts, sc 8, inc in next 2 sts. 28 sts.
3. R3: sc in each st around. 28 sts.

FO and weave in the tail. This oval sits under the upper beak so the mouth appears open. Place it with the darker side visible. Sew only around the outer edge.

Outer Lower Lip

Use orange yarn.

1. R1: ch 12. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 11. 11 sts.
2. R2: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 9, inc. 13 sts.
3. R3: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 13 sts.
4. R4: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 9, dec. 11 sts.

FO with a long tail. Sew this curved lip along the lower edge of the darker mouth oval. The lower lip should sit forward slightly to create the open-mouth expression.

Cheek Patches

Make two orange cheek patches. They sit at both sides of the beak and make the face warm and playful.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.

Sl st to finish. FO with a sewing tail. Sew one cheek to each side of the beak, slightly behind the corners of the upper beak.

Large Blue Eyes

The eyes in the image are large, bright, and embroidered with black lashes and white highlights. You may crochet the eye base and embroider the details on top.

Eye Base, Make Two

Use sky blue yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.

Change to white yarn.

1. R4: sc in each st around. 18 sts.

FO with a long white tail. The blue center should remain visible with a clean white border. Add a small black pupil using black thread and a white highlight using white thread.

Eye Placement

• Place the eyes between head rounds R13 and R17.
• Leave about 6 visible stitches between the inner edges of the eyes.
• The eyes should sit above the beak, not too far apart.
• Sew the eyes securely before adding eyelashes.

Eyelashes and Brows

Use black embroidery thread. Add three lashes to the outer side of each eye. Make the upper lash slightly longer than the lower two. Embroider a soft curved eyebrow above each eye, following the round shape of the head.

Blue and White Garden Dress

The dress is a separate piece worked from the top down. It has blue straps, a blue bodice, red buttons, white trim, and a bell-shaped skirt with horizontal blue and white stripes. The lower hem is decorated with sunflower appliqués.

Dress Bodice

Use sky blue yarn and a 3.0 mm hook. Work in joined rounds. Ch 1 at the start of each round does not count as a stitch.

1. R1: ch 42, join with sl st to form a ring. Make sure the chain is not twisted. Sc in each ch around. Join. 42 sts.
2. R2-R5: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. 42 sts.
3. R6: ch 1, sc 6, inc, repeat around. Join. 48 sts.
4. R7: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. 48 sts.
5. R8: ch 1, sc 7, inc, repeat around. Join. 54 sts.

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Change to white yarn.

1. R9: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. 54 sts.

Change to sky blue yarn.

1. R10: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. 54 sts.

Striped Skirt

Continue from the bodice. The skirt widens gradually. Alternate blue and white stripes to match the dress in the image.

1. R11: With blue, ch 1, sc 8, inc, repeat around. Join. 60 sts.
2. R12: With blue, ch 2, dc in each st around. Join. 60 sts.
3. R13: With white, ch 2, dc in each st around. Join. 60 sts.
4. R14: With blue, ch 2, dc 9, inc, repeat around. Join. 66 sts.
5. R15: With blue, ch 2, dc in each st around. Join. 66 sts.
6. R16: With white, ch 2, dc in each st around. Join. 66 sts.
7. R17: With blue, ch 2, dc 10, inc, repeat around. Join. 72 sts.
8. R18: With blue, ch 2, dc in each st around. Join. 72 sts.
9. R19: With white, ch 2, dc in each st around. Join. 72 sts.
10. R20: With blue, ch 2, dc 11, inc, repeat around. Join. 78 sts.
11. R21: With blue, ch 2, dc in each st around. Join. 78 sts.
12. R22: With white, ch 2, dc in each st around. Join. 78 sts.
13. R23: With blue, ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. 78 sts.
14. R24: With blue, ch 1, reverse sc around for a firm edging. Join and FO.

Place the dress on the doll from the bottom upward before sewing the legs. Pull the bodice up to the base of the neck. Sew the upper bodice lightly to the body at the back and under the arms so it does not slide.

Dress Straps

Make two straps with sky blue yarn.

1. R1: ch 22. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 21. FO.

Sew the straps from the front bodice over the shoulders to the back bodice. Space them evenly. Add one sunflower at the front base of each strap.

Red Buttons

Make three small buttons with red yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. Sl st to first sc. FO with a long tail.

Sew the three red buttons vertically down the center front of the blue bodice. Keep them evenly spaced and centered between the straps.

Sunflower Appliqués

The doll has multiple sunflowers around the lower dress and two near the bodice straps. Make nine small sunflowers: seven for the skirt hem and two for the upper bodice.

Sunflower Center

Use dark brown yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. Sl st to close. 6 sts.

Change to yellow yarn.

Petals

1. R2: ch 3, dc in same st, ch 3, sl st in same st, sl st in next st. Repeat around until you have 6 petals.

FO with a long tail. Sew the sunflowers around the dress hem, evenly spaced. Place the two bodice sunflowers at the base of the straps like decorative buttons.

Blue Sunhat

The hat has a rounded crown, wide brim, yellow ribbon band, and a white daisy flower on the side. Use sky blue yarn and a 3.0 mm hook. Work tightly so the brim holds its shape.

Hat Crown

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
9. R9: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts.
10. R10: BLO sc in each st around. 54 sts.
11. R11-R17: sc in each st around. 54 sts for 7 rounds.

Hat Brim

1. R18: FLO sc 5, inc, repeat around. 63 sts.
2. R19: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 72 sts.
3. R20: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 81 sts.
4. R21: sc in each st around. 81 sts.
5. R22: sc 8, inc, repeat around. 90 sts.
6. R23-R24: sc in each st around. 90 sts.
7. R25: reverse sc around for a firm brim edge. FO.

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For a stronger brim, cut a thin ring of plastic canvas slightly smaller than the brim and sew it under R22-R24. This keeps the brim flat and gently curved like the image.

Yellow Ribbon Band

Use yellow yarn or actual ribbon. For a crocheted band, use yellow yarn.

1. R1: ch 58. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 57. FO.

Wrap the yellow band around the hat at the base of the crown. Sew the ends together at the back. Add two short yellow ribbon tails behind the head if desired.

Hat Daisy

Use yellow yarn for the center and white yarn for petals.

1. R1: With yellow, 6 sc in MR. Sl st to close.
2. R2: Change to white. Ch 4, 2 dc in same st, ch 4, sl st in same st, sl st in next st. Repeat around for 6 petals.

FO with a long tail. Sew the daisy to the right side of the hat brim, slightly above the yellow band.

Green Sandals

The sandals are made in green yarn and sewn over the orange feet. Each sandal has a sole edge, top strap, ankle strap, and a small white daisy accent.

Sandal Sole Edge, Make Two

1. R1: ch 11. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 9, 3 sc in last ch. Work on other side, sc 8, inc in last ch. 22 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 8, inc in next 3 sts, sc 8, inc in next 2 sts. 28 sts.

FO with a long tail. Sew one sole edge under each orange foot, letting the green edge show around the foot.

Top Foot Strap, Make Two

1. R1: ch 16. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 15. FO.

Sew the strap across the front of the foot from one side of the sole to the other. It should cross just behind the toe bumps.

Ankle Strap, Make Two

1. R1: ch 18. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 17. FO.

Wrap the strap around the ankle area and sew the ends at the back. Keep it snug but not too tight.

Sandal Daisies

Make two tiny daisies using yellow and white yarn.

1. R1: With yellow, 5 sc in MR. Sl st to close.
2. R2: Change to white. Ch 2, sc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st, sl st in next st. Repeat around for 5 tiny petals.

Sew one daisy on each sandal strap near the outer side of the foot.

Bee Crossbody Bag

The bag is round and beige with a small yellow bee on the front. It hangs from a long beige strap across the body from one shoulder to the opposite hip.

Round Bag Body, Make Two Circles

Use beige yarn and a 3.0 mm hook.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.

FO on the first circle. Do not fasten off the second circle. Place wrong sides together and sc through both circles around, stuffing lightly before closing. Sl st to finish and FO.

Bag Flap Texture

With beige yarn, embroider a shallow curved line across the upper third of the bag to suggest a flap. Use small backstitches so the line is neat and visible.

Bee Body

Use yellow yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
3. R3-R4: sc in each st around. 9 sts.
4. R5: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 6 sts.

FO and flatten slightly. Embroider black stripes across the bee body. Sew it to the front center of the beige bag.

Bee Wings

Use white yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. Make two.

1. R1: ch 4. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc, hdc, 3 hdc in last ch. Work on other side, hdc, sc. Sl st to finish.

Sew the wings to the top of the bee. Add two tiny black antennae with embroidery thread.

Crossbody Strap

Use beige yarn.

1. R1: ch 78. Starting in the second ch from hook, sl st in each ch across. FO.

Sew one end to each side of the bag. Place the strap over the doll’s shoulder and across the front of the dress. Tack it lightly at the shoulder and side so it stays in the same diagonal position.

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Tiny Watering Can

The watering can sits beside the doll. It is beige with a light teal stripe, a side handle, and a spout. Work with beige yarn first.

Watering Can Body

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: BLO sc in each st around. 24 sts.
6. R6-R10: sc in each st around. 24 sts for 5 rounds.

Change to light teal yarn.

1. R11: sc in each st around. 24 sts.

Change back to beige yarn.

1. R12-R14: sc in each st around. 24 sts for 3 rounds.
2. R15: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
3. R16: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.

Stuff lightly, keeping the can hollow-looking at the top if possible. FO and close the opening loosely.

Watering Can Rim

Attach beige yarn to the top front loop area.

1. R1: ch 1, sc around the top opening area, join with sl st. FO.

Watering Can Handle

Use beige yarn.

1. R1: ch 22. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 21. FO.

Sew the handle from the upper side of the can to the lower side, forming a round handle shape. Curve it outward so it resembles the handle in the image.

Watering Can Spout

Use beige yarn.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. R2-R6: sc in each st around. 5 sts for 5 rounds.
3. R7: sc 1, inc, repeat twice, sc 1. 7 sts.
4. R8-R9: sc in each st around. 7 sts for 2 rounds.

FO with a long tail. Stuff very lightly. Sew the spout to the opposite side of the handle, angled upward. Add a small teal line around the spout base if desired.

Seed Packet

The seed packet is a small beige rectangle with a green top edge, dark soil line, and tiny sprout design. Use beige yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

Packet Base

1. R1: ch 10. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 9. 9 sts.
2. R2-R12: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 9 sts for 11 rows.

Do not fasten off. Work a border.

1. Border: ch 1, sc evenly around all four sides, placing 2 sc in each corner. Sl st to finish. FO.

Green Top Label

Attach green yarn at the top edge.

1. R1: sc 9 across the top edge. FO.

Soil and Sprout Embroidery

• Use dark brown yarn to embroider a small curved soil line near the lower front.
• Use green yarn to embroider a short stem rising from the soil.
• Add two small green leaf stitches on either side of the stem.
• Use beige yarn tails to secure the packet flat so it looks like a tiny garden label packet.

Optional Yellow Ribbon Tails Behind Hat

The image shows yellow ribbon ends peeking behind the hat. Make two small strips if you want this detail.

1. R1: With yellow yarn, ch 12. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 11. FO.

Make two strips. Sew them behind the hat band so they hang downward behind the duck’s head.

Assembly Order

1. Sew the legs to the bottom of the body, spacing them about 8 stitches apart.
2. Pull the dress over the legs and body. Position the bodice at the base of the neck.
3. Sew the dress lightly to the body at the back, sides, and underarm area.
4. Sew the arms to the sides of the body just below the shoulders. Let them hang naturally along the dress.
5. Sew the beak pieces to the lower face before final facial embroidery.
6. Sew the cheek circles to each side of the beak.
7. Sew the eyes above the beak and embroider lashes and brows.
8. Place the hat on the head and sew it in several hidden points.
9. Add the sunflower appliqués around the dress hem and bodice straps.
10. Add sandals to the feet and sew the tiny sandal daisies in place.
11. Attach the bee bag strap diagonally across the dress.
12. Place the watering can and seed packet beside the doll as display accessories.

Detailed Beak Placement

Place the upper beak across the lower face, centered between rounds R17 and R22 of the head. The widest part should reach toward both cheeks. Pin it first. Sew around the outer edge, adding a little stuffing before closing the final section.

Place the darker mouth oval directly under the upper beak. Only the lower half should show clearly. Sew it flat to the face. Then sew the outer lower lip along the lower edge of the darker oval so the beak looks open and cheerful.

The cheek circles sit on the left and right corners of the beak. They should overlap the beak slightly, creating a rounded smile shape. Sew with small stitches and hide the tails inside the head.

Dress Fitting Tips

The dress should flare outward like a gentle bell. If your skirt looks too flat, lightly steam it without touching the iron to the yarn. Shape the lower hem outward with your fingers and let it dry completely.

If the bodice feels loose around the neck, use a hidden strand of blue yarn to gather the back by 2 or 3 stitches. Do not gather the front because the red buttons and strap flowers should stay centered.

Facial Embroidery Guide

• Use black embroidery thread for the upper eyelid line.
• Add three lashes at the outer corner of each eye.
• Use a gentle curved eyebrow above each eye.
• Add white highlights inside the blue eye centers.
• Use pale pink yarn or embroidery thread for a very soft blush under the eyes if desired.

The face should look bright and friendly. Keep both eyes level before sewing. Step back and check the expression from the front. Small changes in eye angle can make the doll look sleepy, surprised, or happy.

Finishing the Hat

After sewing the yellow band around the hat, place the hat on the head so the brim frames the face. The front brim should sit slightly above the eyes and should not hide the eyebrows. Sew with matching blue yarn in four hidden spots.

Sew the white daisy on the right side of the hat. The flower should overlap the brim and ribbon band slightly. This creates the garden-party look shown in the image.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check that the head, neck, body, and legs are balanced before attaching the final accessories. The neck should stand tall, the beak should point forward, and the dress should sit evenly around the body. Add extra hidden stitches under the dress if the doll leans.

For the final face, reinforce the eye highlights, lashes, and brows with neat embroidery. Trim loose fibers carefully. Smooth the beak and cheeks with your fingers so the mouth keeps its open rounded shape.

Care Notes

• Spot clean only with a damp cloth and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if the doll contains wire, buttons, cardboard, or plastic canvas.
• Let the doll air dry fully before storing.
• Keep away from rough play if used as a decorative display item.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head is firmly stuffed and smoothly shaped.
• Neck stands upright without folding.
• Beak is centered and slightly puffy.
• Eyes are level and evenly spaced.
• Dress stripes are straight and the skirt flares evenly.
• Sunflowers are evenly placed around the hem.
• Hat brim frames the face without covering the eyes.
• Bee bag strap crosses the front neatly.
• Sandals are secure and aligned on both feet.
• Watering can and seed packet are finished as matching garden props.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the doll’s shape, keep it standing or sitting upright when displayed. Avoid direct sunlight for long periods because bright blue, orange, yellow, and green yarns may fade over time.

Use a soft brush to remove dust from the hat brim, dress hem, and sunflower petals. For small stains, dab gently with cool water. Do not rub the embroidered eyes or lashes because the threads may loosen.

Store the doll in a clean cotton bag or a display box when not in use. Keep the watering can, seed packet, and bee bag beside the doll so the full garden outfit remains complete and ready for display.