This elegant amigurumi set features a long-eared bunny dressed in a dusty blue jacket, layered skirt, beret, bow shoes, and a round handbag, paired with a charming little goose holding flowers. It is a wonderful choice for collectors searching for handmade bunny doll decor, heirloom crochet toys, or boutique nursery gifts.
The finished pieces have a polished storybook look that fits beautifully into searches for crochet bunny doll, stuffed animal gift, artisan amigurumi, and collectible soft sculpture. The refined outfit details, soft silhouette, and coordinated accessories make this set especially appealing for baby shower gift displays and handmade toy lovers.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Design Overview
This pattern creates the full scene shown in the image:
- A standing bunny with a cream body and long floppy ears
- A dusty regency-blue beret with a side bow
- A fitted jacket with two decorative front bows
- A layered scalloped skirt tied at one side with a long cord bow
- Mary Jane style shoes with bows
- A round blue handbag with two handles
- A small white goose with a blue beret and flower cluster
- Loose crochet roses with leaves and a lace-look mat accent
The bunny is proportioned with a large head, small torso, slim limbs, and long ears that fall below shoulder level. The outfit is neat and structured rather than oversized. The goose is much smaller and reaches approximately to the bunny’s hip.
Skill Level
Intermediate
A confident beginner can make this set, but several finishing details require patience. The shaping is not difficult, though the success of the final look depends on tidy stitch placement, even stuffing, and careful assembly.
Materials
- Sport or light DK cotton yarn in:
- Cream for bunny body
- Dusty regency blue for outfit, beret, handbag, and shoe trims
- White for goose body and wings
- Orange for goose beak and feet
- Black for goose beak band detail
- Soft pink for bunny nose and blush accents
- Rose pink and dusty rose for flowers
- Leaf green for leaves and stems
- Beige or ecru for lace-look mat if desired
- Crochet hook suitable for tight amigurumi stitches, usually 2.0 mm to 2.5 mm
- Black safety eyes for bunny
- Small black beads or embroidered eyes for goose
- Fiberfill stuffing
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
- Sewing pins for assembly
Finished Size
- Bunny: about 11 to 13 inches tall including beret, depending on yarn and tension
- Goose: about 5 to 6 inches tall
- Handbag: about 3 inches wide
The exact size matters less than proportion. Keep the bunny head large, body slim, and skirt wide enough to create a graceful bell shape.
Gauge
Gauge is not critical, but your stitches must be tight enough that stuffing does not show through.
If your fabric looks open, go down a hook size. The pieces in the image have dense, smooth fabric with very little visible gap between stitches.
Abbreviations
- MR = magic ring
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- inc = 2 sc in same stitch
- dec = invisible decrease
- FLO = front loop only
- BLO = back loop only
- st = stitch
- sts = stitches
📌Thank you for reading the article
Color Planning and Proportion Notes
The bunny body is worked in cream. The clothes are all the same dusty blue, which gives the set a refined, coordinated appearance. The jacket should end just at the waist. The skirt begins immediately below and sits high, so the outfit reads as one complete dress ensemble.
The head is nearly as wide as the skirted body. The ears are narrow, soft, and not heavily stuffed. The arms are short and slightly angled downward. The legs are slim with tiny ankle definition, and the shoes are rounded, not pointed.
Bunny Head
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
- Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
- Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
- Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
- Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)
- Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6. (48)
- Rounds 9-17: sc around. (48)
- Round 18: (6 sc, dec) x 6. (42)
- Round 19: (5 sc, dec) x 6. (36)
- Round 20: (4 sc, dec) x 6. (30)
Insert safety eyes between Rounds 12 and 13 with about 10 to 12 visible stitches between them. The eyes in the image are small, glossy, and widely spaced enough to keep the face innocent and gentle.
Begin stuffing the head firmly but do not overfill the lower face. A softer lower half helps the nose embroidery sit naturally.
- Round 21: (3 sc, dec) x 6. (24)
- Round 22: (2 sc, dec) x 6. (18)
- Round 23: (sc, dec) x 6. (12)
- Round 24: dec around. (6)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail if you want to reinforce the chin shape from the inside. The head should be slightly rounded at the top and gently narrower at the jaw, but not sharply pointed.
Bunny Muzzle and Face Shaping
The image shows a very subtle muzzle rather than a protruding snout. To match that look, do not add a large separate nose piece. Instead, lightly sculpt the face.
- With cream yarn, pass a needle through the lower head to make a soft inward pull under each eye.
- Keep the shaping minimal. The face should remain smooth and plush.
- Embroider a tiny horizontal pink nose centered two rounds below the eyes.
- Add a short vertical stitch descending from the nose.
- Optional: add a tiny soft blush with pale pink thread or cosmetic blush.
- Embroider thin light brows in a soft beige or pale taupe.
Bunny Ears Make 2
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: (sc, inc) x 3. (9)
- Round 3: (2 sc, inc) x 3. (12)
- Round 4: (3 sc, inc) x 3. (15)
- Rounds 5-18: sc around. (15)
- Round 19: (3 sc, dec) x 3. (12)
- Rounds 20-24: sc around. (12)
Flatten each ear and crochet 6 sc through both layers across the opening, or sew closed flat. Do not stuff. The ears in the image are soft, flat, and hang close to the face without flaring outward.
Sew the ears to the head slightly below the crown line, hidden partly under the beret. They should fall vertically and reach to about the upper arm level.
Bunny Body
The body is a narrow standing form with only a slight hip curve because most fullness comes from the skirt.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
- Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
- Rounds 5-8: sc around. (24)
- Round 9: (2 sc, dec) x 6. (18)
- Rounds 10-12: sc around. (18)
- Round 13: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
- Rounds 14-16: sc around. (24)
📌Thank you for reading the article
Stuff the body firmly at the base and medium-firm in the upper section. The bunny must stand with help from the posed legs, so keep the lower body balanced and neat.
- Round 17: (2 sc, dec) x 6. (18)
- Round 18: sc around. (18)
Fasten off with a long tail for sewing. The neck opening should be narrower than the lower torso so the head sits securely.
Bunny Legs Make 2
The legs are slim cream tubes ending in blue shoes. To keep the silhouette faithful to the image, the legs should be straight, not chunky.
Shoe Base in Blue
- Round 1: ch 6. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side, sc 3, inc in last. (12)
- Round 2: inc, sc 3, inc x 3, sc 3, inc x 2. (18)
- Round 3: sc around in BLO. (18)
- Round 4: sc 5, dec x 4, sc 5. (14)
- Round 5: sc around. (14)
Change to cream.
- Rounds 6-16: sc around. (14)
Stuff the foot firmly and the leg lightly. Leave the top of the leg less stuffed so it can be sewn at a natural angle beneath the body.
For the standing shape, flatten the top slightly and sew each leg to the lower body so they hang straight down with only a tiny outward angle.
Bunny Arms Make 2
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: (sc, inc) x 3. (9)
- Round 3: sc around. (9)
Change to blue if you want the sleeves attached to the arm piece. For a cleaner clothing finish like the image, keep the whole arm cream and add the sleeve visually with the jacket worn over it. That gives a more refined fitted look.
- Rounds 4-14: sc around. (9)
Stuff only the hand area and lower half lightly. Flatten the upper opening and sew to the body at the shoulder line. The arms should angle downward and rest just outside the skirt line.
Beret
The beret is softly slouched with a fitted band and a side bow. It should sit low over the forehead and tilt slightly to one side.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
- Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
- Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
- Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
- Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)
- Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6. (48)
- Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6. (54)
- Round 10: (8 sc, inc) x 6. (60)
- Rounds 11-14: sc around. (60)
- Round 15: (8 sc, dec) x 6. (54)
- Round 16: (7 sc, dec) x 6. (48)
- Round 17: (6 sc, dec) x 6. (42)
- Round 18: (5 sc, dec) x 6. (36)
Try the beret on the head. If needed, add one more decrease round to fit snugly. Finish with one round of slip stitches for a defined brim edge.
Beret Side Bow
- Ch 12.
- Row 1: Starting in second ch, sc 11.
- Rows 2-4: ch 1, turn, sc 11.
Fasten off. Wrap the center tightly with blue yarn to form a bow. Add two short chained tails and knot them loosely. Sew the bow to the right front side of the beret.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Jacket
The jacket is short, neat, and slightly open at the bottom center. It has long sleeves and two prominent decorative bows on the front. Work it as a small fitted garment rather than a bulky cardigan.
Back and Front Panels
Work from the neck down in rows.
- Ch 25.
- Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across. (24)
- Rows 2-4: ch 1, turn, sc across. (24)
Now divide for fronts and back.
- Left front: 6 sts
- Back: 12 sts
- Right front: 6 sts
Work each front separately for 5 more rows to create the arm opening depth. Fasten off each front.
Work the back center 5 rows straight. Join shoulders with sewing or slip stitch. This forms a tiny jacket shell with open front.
Sleeves Make 2
Attach blue yarn around the armhole and work 14 sc evenly around. Continue in rounds for 9 to 10 rounds, or until the sleeve reaches the wrist. Make one final round with slightly tighter tension so the cuff sits neatly.
Sew or dress the jacket onto the bunny. Keep it fitted through the torso. The bottom front edges should nearly meet but still leave a tiny opening above the skirt tie area.
Front Bows Make 2
For each bow:
- Ch 10.
- Row 1: sc 9.
- Rows 2-3: ch 1, turn, sc 9.
Fasten off and wrap the center. Sew one bow at upper chest and one at waist. Add short bow tails beneath each center wrap. These bows are important to the visual identity of the outfit, so make them full and symmetrical.
Layered Skirt
The skirt is the most decorative part of the bunny outfit. It has a high waist, two visible tiers, and a scalloped lower edge. To achieve the correct volume, keep the waistband snug but allow expansion through the lower rounds.
Waistband
- Ch long enough to fit around the bunny waist snugly, usually 28 to 32 chains.
- Join carefully without twisting.
- Round 1: sc around.
- Round 2: (3 sc, inc) around.
- Round 3: sc around.
- Round 4: (4 sc, inc) around.
Continue until the upper tier covers the hips. The skirt should begin immediately below the jacket and flare outward.
Tier One
Work 3 to 4 rounds of dc or hdc for a softer drape. End with a decorative shell edge:
- Skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st
- Repeat around
This creates the scalloped edge seen on the upper layer.
Tier Two
Attach yarn in a round above the first shell row, using exposed front loops or a hidden joining round inside the skirt. Increase evenly to make the second tier slightly fuller than the first.
Work 4 to 5 rounds, then finish with another shell edge. The second tier should peek out beneath the first and extend lower, creating the layered ruffle effect shown in the image.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Side Tie
Chain a long cord, about 35 to 45 chains depending on your tension. Thread it through the waist or sew it to the right side of the skirt, then tie into a generous bow with long ends. Let the tails drape well below the upper tier.
Shoes and Shoe Straps
The shoes are blue Mary Jane style with a strap and front bow. If you already worked the blue shoe base as part of the legs, now add the decorative details.
Strap
- Attach blue yarn at one side of the ankle opening
- Ch 6 to 8 depending on fit
- Anchor to opposite side with sl st
- Fasten off
Shoe Bows Make 2
- Ch 8.
- Row 1: sc 7.
- Rows 2-3: ch 1, turn, sc 7.
Wrap the center and sew each bow to the front of the shoe just below the strap line. The bows should be modest but clearly visible.
Round Handbag
This accessory is a flat circular handbag with two rounded handles. It should sit beside the bunny and visually match the blue of the outfit.
Bag Front and Back Make 2
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
- Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
- Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)
- Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36)
- Round 7: sc around. (36)
Do not fasten off the second circle. Place both circles wrong sides together and join with sc around, leaving a small opening if you want to lightly pad the bag. The bag in the image is mostly flat, so only minimal stuffing is needed.
Handles Make 2
- Ch 18 to 22
- Join into a loop
- Work 1 round of sc around chain loop if desired for firmness
Sew both handles to the top of the bag, slightly overlapping in the center so they resemble the image. Keep the handles low and rounded.
Goose Body
The goose is compact with a rounded lower body, upright neck, small wings, orange feet, and a blue beret. It also carries a tiny flower bundle.
Body and Neck
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR with white. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
- Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)
- Rounds 5-9: sc around. (24)
- Round 10: (2 sc, dec) x 6. (18)
- Round 11: sc around. (18)
Stuff the lower body firmly.
- Round 12: (sc, dec) x 6. (12)
- Rounds 13-20: sc around. (12)
This narrow section forms the upright neck. Continue a few rounds longer if your goose looks too short compared with the image.
Head
- Round 21: (sc, inc) x 6. (18)
- Rounds 22-24: sc around. (18)
- Round 25: (sc, dec) x 6. (12)
- Round 26: dec x 6. (6)
📌Thank you for reading the article
Stuff the head lightly and close. Embroider or attach tiny black eyes near the upper head. The expression should be simple and sweet.
Beak
With orange:
- Round 1: 4 sc in MR. (4)
- Round 2: (sc, inc) x 2. (6)
- Round 3: sc around. (6)
Flatten slightly and sew to the face. Add a narrow black stitched band near the base of the beak to match the image.
Feet Make 2
With orange:
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: sc around. (6)
Flatten slightly and sew beneath the body so the goose stands steady.
Wings Make 2
With white:
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: (sc, inc) x 3. (9)
- Round 3: sc around. (9)
Flatten and sew to the sides. Add a few tiny picot-like bumps or short shell stitches on the outer edge if you want the soft feathery look seen in the image.
Goose Tail
At the back of the body, add 3 small puff-like white bumps or cluster stitches to suggest tail feathers. Keep this detail subtle.
Goose Beret
Make a very small blue beret using the same method as the bunny beret but stopping after 18 to 24 stitches. Add a tiny side knot or bow and sew it at a slight tilt.
Small Flower Cluster
Both the loose flowers and the goose bouquet are tiny rolled roses with green leaves.
Rose Make as Needed
- Ch 16
- In second ch from hook: 2 hdc in each chain across
- Fasten off with a long tail
- Roll from one end into a rose shape
- Stitch through the base to secure
Leaf
- Ch 5
- Starting in second ch: sl st, sc, hdc, sl st
Sew leaves under the flower base. Make one small bouquet for the goose and several loose roses for display beside the bunny handbag.
Lace-Look Mat Accent
The image includes a tiny cream decorative piece beneath the flowers. You can mimic that look with a simple mesh triangle or square.
- Ch 10
- Work alternating ch-1 spaces and sc rows
- Add a small picot or shell edge
This detail is optional, but it helps recreate the complete scene.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Sew the head to the body securely and check that it sits straight when viewed from the front. Attach the ears low enough that the beret partly overlaps them. Add the jacket, then position the skirt immediately below it so there is no visible gap.
Sew the arms after the jacket is in place, or sew through the jacket and body together for a cleaner fit. Attach the beret slightly angled. Add the tiny pink nose, center mouth line, delicate brows, and a faint blush. Keep every facial detail minimal and soft.
For the goose, sew the beak centered on the face, then attach wings, tail shaping, beret, and flower cluster. The goose should look upright and companion-like beside the bunny.
Care Notes
- Display pieces are best kept out of direct sunlight to protect color
- Spot clean whenever possible
- Do not machine wash if the doll includes safety eyes or detailed shaping
- Reshape hat, bows, and skirt after cleaning
- Store flat or upright to preserve the silhouette
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head centered and stable
- Ears even and hanging at the same length
- Beret tilted gently with side bow visible
- Jacket front bows aligned
- Skirt tiers full and scallops neat
- Side waist bow long and soft
- Shoe bows matched
- Handbag handles secure
- Goose beak straight and flowers attached firmly
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Dust the finished pieces gently using a soft dry brush. For light surface marks, use a barely damp cloth and blot instead of rubbing. Avoid soaking stuffed areas. If needed, hand wash only the removable accessories in cool water with mild soap, then air dry flat.
To preserve shape over time, keep the bunny and goose away from heavy pressure and high humidity. Re-fluff compressed areas with your fingers. Store them in a clean breathable box with tissue support under the hat, skirt, and wings if they will not be displayed for a long period.



