This sweet amigurumi bunny set blends a soft wardrobe doll look with collectible boutique details. The finished design feels like a premium handmade rabbit doll, complete with a beret, jacket, skirt, satchel, tiny bouquet, seal, and a little bird companion that gives the whole display a gift-shop charm.
If you love searching for a crochet bunny plush, heirloom nursery toy, handmade stuffed rabbit, or artisan spring doll gift, this design brings all of those cozy details together. The colors are calm and classic, the accessories are playful, and the full set is made to look polished from every angle.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Design Overview
This bunny is a standing wardrobe-style amigurumi with a large round head, long soft ears, slim limbs, and a gently weighted lower body. The outfit is made as separate pieces so the finished doll keeps the clean shape seen in the image.
The look depends on proportion. The head is larger than the torso, the ears fall to about the lower chest, the jacket ends above the skirt waistline, and the skirt sits slightly low on the body to create the drop-waist silhouette.
The small accessories matter. The satchel has a structured flap, the shoes are neat Mary Jane style slippers, the bouquet is tiny and light, the wax seal is flat and round, and the bird is chubby with a small cap and a letter.
Materials
- Main bunny color: light cream yarn
- Outfit color: dusty sky blue yarn
- Bag and shoes: warm oatmeal beige yarn
- Pocket motifs and trim: soft white yarn
- Leaves and shoe sprigs: light leaf green yarn
- Flower centers: pale yellow yarn
- Wax seal: muted cherry red yarn
- Bird beak and feet: golden tan or light orange yarn
- Embroidery thread: blush pink for nose, mouth, and light cheek shading; soft brown for brows
- Safety eyes: glossy black or very dark navy, about 10 mm to 12 mm
- Hook: choose a hook size that gives a dense fabric with no visible stuffing gaps
- Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
- Optional weighting: small pouch of pellets for the base
- Tapestry needle, stitch markers, pins, scissors
- Very small button: one cream or white button for jacket front
- Thin cardboard or plastic canvas: optional for satchel base
Finished Size
The bunny is designed to stand as a medium display doll. If made with sport or light DK yarn and a firm hook choice, the bunny will usually finish around 10 to 12 inches tall without counting the beret puff.
The bird is much smaller and should reach around one-third of the bunny’s body height. The satchel should sit near the bunny’s lower arm and look roomy but still toy-like, not oversized.
Gauge and Tension
Exact stitch count matters more than exact gauge, but tension changes the whole personality of this doll. Keep stitches very even and firm. The head must be smooth and round, the jacket must sit flat, and the skirt must hold a gentle flare without collapsing.
If your fabric looks loose, go down a hook size. If your rounds begin to angle or cup more than expected, relax your tension slightly. The clothing should fit close, but you still need room to dress the doll comfortably.
Skill Notes
- Work most pieces in continuous rounds unless a row instruction is given.
- Use a stitch marker at the first stitch of every round.
- Stuff firmly and gradually.
- Invisible decreases give the cleanest finish.
- For accessories, light stuffing is usually enough.
- Pin all parts before sewing.
Abbreviations
- MR = magic ring
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- inc = 2 sc in same stitch
- dec = invisible decrease
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- st = stitch
- sts = stitches
📌Thank you for reading the article
Color Planning
Use cream for the head, ears, arms, hands, legs, and visible body. Use dusty blue for the beret, jacket, skirt, and bird clothing. Use oatmeal for the satchel flap lining, bag body contrast, and shoes.
The pocket motifs and sleeve flourishes are worked or embroidered in white. The bouquet flowers are white with soft yellow centers and green stems. Keep all decorative elements delicate so they do not overpower the calm clothing palette.
Bunny Head
The head is a smooth sphere with only a very slight lower cheek fullness. It should look wide and gentle, not elongated. The face sits low enough to leave a generous forehead for the beret brim.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
- Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
- Round 5: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
- Round 6: (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
- Round 7: (5 sc, inc) around. (42)
- Round 8: (6 sc, inc) around. (48)
- Round 9: (7 sc, inc) around. (54)
- Round 10: (8 sc, inc) around. (60)
- Rounds 11 to 20: sc around. (60)
Place the eyes between Rounds 13 and 14 with about 10 visible stitches between them. Adjust slightly to fit your chosen eye size. The eyes in the image sit open and calm, not too close and not too high.
- Round 21: (8 sc, dec) around. (54)
- Round 22: (7 sc, dec) around. (48)
- Round 23: (6 sc, dec) around. (42)
- Round 24: (5 sc, dec) around. (36)
Begin stuffing firmly, shaping the cheeks with your fingers. Add more stuffing to the forehead and back of head so the face stays broad and smooth. Do not overstuff the lower front or the nose embroidery will pull inward too sharply.
- Round 25: (4 sc, dec) around. (30)
- Round 26: (3 sc, dec) around. (24)
- Round 27: (2 sc, dec) around. (18)
- Round 28: (sc, dec) around. (12)
- Round 29: dec around. (6)
Fasten off and close. Leave a long tail only if you prefer to attach the head later. Otherwise, finish the head completely and sew it onto the neck opening after the body is stuffed and shaped.
Muzzle Shaping and Facial Embroidery
This face is minimal and soft. There is no raised muzzle piece. Instead, the nose and short center line are embroidered directly onto the head. This keeps the front smooth and matches the simple look seen in the image.
- Embroider a tiny horizontal nose in dusty blush pink, centered one to two rounds below the eyes.
- Add a short vertical line beneath the nose.
- Split the lower end into a very small soft V for the mouth.
- Embroider short light brown brows, slightly angled upward toward the outer edge.
- Add faint blush shading on the cheeks if desired.
Ears Make 2
The ears are long, flat, lightly stuffed or unstuffed tubes with soft tapering. They hang straight down from the upper sides of the head and reach roughly to the bunny’s upper jacket front.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
- Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
- Rounds 5 to 8: sc around. (24)
- Round 9: (2 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 8 sc) to begin soft taper. (22)
- Round 10: sc around. (22)
- Round 11: (9 sc, dec) twice. (20)
- Rounds 12 to 20: sc around. (20)
- Round 21: (8 sc, dec) twice. (18)
- Rounds 22 to 30: sc around. (18)
📌Thank you for reading the article
Flatten the top opening. Do not stuff heavily. A whisper of stuffing at the lower half is enough if you want slightly rounded ear ends. Sew each ear to the head around Rounds 8 to 11, positioned just behind the eye line.
Body
The body is compact and simple because most of it sits under the clothing. Keep the upper torso narrow. The lower part should be slightly rounded so the skirt falls neatly and the bunny can balance when posed against a support.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
- Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
- Round 5: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
- Rounds 6 to 9: sc around. (30)
- Round 10: (8 sc, dec) three times. (27)
- Rounds 11 to 14: sc around. (27)
- Round 15: (7 sc, dec) three times. (24)
- Rounds 16 to 18: sc around. (24)
Stuff firmly. Add a little weight at the bottom if you like. The neck opening should stay centered and straight. Leave a long tail for sewing to the head if you have not already attached it.
Legs Make 2
The legs are straight, slim, and evenly stuffed. They must be long enough to show below the skirt but still look youthful and soft. The foot shaping is hidden by shoes, so the leg tube can stay simple.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
- Rounds 4 to 6: sc around. (18)
- Round 7: (4 sc, dec) three times. (15)
- Rounds 8 to 22: sc around. (15)
Stuff each leg firmly but keep the top 4 rounds less stuffed so they can be sewn easily. Flatten the top opening and sew the legs to the underside of the body, spaced so the bunny can stand in a tidy natural stance.
Arms Make 2
The arms are slim sleeves underneath, with cream hands showing only at the ends. They hang straight with a very slight forward curve. The sleeves of the jacket cover most of the arm length.
- Round 1: With cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Rounds 3 to 5: sc around. (12)
- Change to cream or keep same if making full under-arm in cream.
- Round 6: (4 sc, dec) twice. (10)
- Rounds 7 to 20: sc around. (10)
Stuff lightly. Flatten the top opening and sew to the sides of the body just below the neck. Angle the arms slightly downward so the satchel can sit beside one arm and the other arm remains relaxed.
Skirt
The skirt is worked as a separate piece. It begins at the waist, falls straight for several rounds, then opens with a modest flare and ends in a small wavy ruffle. The front has two narrow decorative vertical panels.
Measure the body where you want the skirt to sit. It should rest slightly lower than a standard waistline to create the drop-waist look. Adjust the starting chain in multiples that fit your body circumference.
- Foundation: Chain a length that fits around the lower torso comfortably. Join without twisting.
- Round 1: sc around. Join. Keep stitch count even and snug.
- Rounds 2 to 7: sc around.
- Round 8: (5 sc, inc) around.
- Rounds 9 to 12: sc around.
- Round 13: (6 sc, inc) around to widen gently.
- Round 14: sc around.
- Round 15: ruffle edge worked as (sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc) across every few stitches, spacing evenly for a soft wave.
For the two decorative front panels, add them after the skirt body is complete. Work or embroider two narrow vertical lace-like strips in the same blue, slightly darker by shadow only, centered at the left and right front.
- Each panel should be slim and delicate.
- Use chains and slip stitches or surface embroidery to imitate openwork columns.
- Do not make them too wide.
- They should begin below the waistband and end above the ruffle.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Jacket
The jacket is one of the key features. It is a short blue cardigan styled like a tiny trench-inspired top layer. It has long sleeves, a front opening, rounded lower fronts, and white pocket motifs that look like simplified leaf or feather sprays.
Work the jacket in rows from the neckline downward or from the lower body upward. The easiest way to control the shape is top-down in rows, then add sleeves. Keep the body neat and slightly fitted.
Jacket Yoke and Body
- Chain a foundation for neck width that fits comfortably around the upper body.
- Row 1: sc across.
- Row 2: Increase at four raglan-style points to begin shoulders.
- Rows 3 to 8: continue shaping until the yoke reaches underarm depth.
- Separate sleeve sections from body sections.
- Continue the body back and fronts in rows.
Shape the front opening so the two lower fronts curve outward slightly. This rounded front edge is important because it matches the image. The jacket front does not overlap deeply and sits open below the small top button.
- Rows 9 to 16: Work body rows evenly.
- Rows 17 to 20: On each front edge, reduce one stitch gradually across the lower rows to soften the corners.
- Work one final edging round or row of sc all around the opening, hem, and neckline.
Sleeves
The sleeves are full-length and slightly roomy, ending just above the hands. They are not puff sleeves. They taper gently toward the wrist and finish with a small decorative white flourish near the cuff.
- Join yarn to one armhole.
- Round 1: sc evenly around armhole opening.
- Rounds 2 to 6: sc around.
- Round 7: dec 1 or 2 stitches evenly.
- Rounds 8 to 14: sc around.
- Round 15: dec 1 stitch if needed.
- Rounds 16 to 18: sc around to wrist length.
Add white cuff detail as either surface embroidery or tiny stitched motifs. Each cuff embellishment should resemble a curled leaf or narrow feather sprig and stay low-profile so the sleeves remain elegant and simple.
Pocket Motifs
The front of the jacket has two white decorative motifs placed where little pockets might be. They are not bulky true pockets. They look like stylized fan leaves or softly branching embroidery.
- Embroider or crochet two matching motifs in white.
- Place one on each lower front panel.
- Keep them angled slightly inward.
- Do not let them extend too close to the center opening.
Button
Sew one tiny pale button near the upper chest where the fronts meet. You may add a loop on one side if you want the jacket to close, but the display look works best when only the upper portion is held together.
Beret
The beret sits wide and softly slouched toward one side. It has a fitted band, a puffed crown, and a tiny center nub at the top. Keep the fabric dense so the shape holds, but do not overstuff or line it.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
- Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
- Round 5: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
- Round 6: (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
- Round 7: (5 sc, inc) around. (42)
- Round 8: (6 sc, inc) around. (48)
- Round 9: (7 sc, inc) around. (54)
- Round 10: (8 sc, inc) around. (60)
- Rounds 11 to 15: sc around. (60)
- Round 16: (8 sc, dec) around. (54)
- Round 17: (7 sc, dec) around. (48)
- Round 18: (6 sc, dec) around. (42)
- Round 19: BLO sc around for the band edge. (42)
- Rounds 20 to 22: sc around. (42)
📌Thank you for reading the article
For the top nub, join yarn at the center and make a tiny stem of 4 to 6 sc rounds, or embroider a small knot. Shape the beret by hand and tack it lightly to the head so it leans softly to one side.
Shoes Make 2
The shoes are neat beige Mary Jane style slippers with a strap across the top. A tiny green leaf accent sits near the outer side of each shoe. The soles are flat and tidy, not oversized.
- Round 1: With beige, chain 7. Work around the chain to form an oval. (14 to 16 sts depending on your turning stitches)
- Round 2: inc at toe and heel sections to shape sole.
- Round 3: sc around in BLO to form the side wall.
- Rounds 4 to 5: sc around.
- Round 6: Work partial decreases across the toe to close the front.
- Round 7: sc around remaining opening to neaten.
For the strap, chain enough to cross the top of the shoe. Sew one end at the inside edge and the other end at the outside edge. Keep the strap flat and centered. Add a tiny green leaf on the outer side.
- Each leaf can be made as ch 4, then sl st, sc, hdc back down one side.
- Make one or two tiny leaves per shoe.
- Sew close to the strap edge.
Satchel Bag
The satchel is a structured handbag with a blue lower body, beige upper flap section, blue edging, a small front tab, and a blue handle. It should stand upright on its own when lightly stuffed or supported.
Bag Front and Back
- With blue, chain a rectangle width.
- Rows 1 to 8: sc across to create the blue lower body panel.
- Change to beige.
- Rows 9 to 13: sc across for the upper panel.
- Make 2 identical panels.
Side Gusset
- With blue, chain a long strip matching the perimeter of the lower sides and base.
- Work rows of sc until the strip is the desired depth.
Sew the gusset around the front and back panels. If you want a firmer bag, insert a thin piece of cardboard or plastic canvas into the base before fully closing. Add a touch of stuffing only if needed for shape.
Flap
- With beige, chain across the bag width.
- Work 4 to 5 rows of sc.
- Shape the lower point by decreasing at both ends over 2 to 3 more rows.
- Edge the flap in blue with one round of sc.
Front Tab and Handle
- For the tab, crochet a short beige rectangle and edge or outline it in blue if desired.
- Sew the tab to the flap tip.
- For the handle, make a blue cord or narrow strip and attach at both upper sides.
The bag in the image has a crisp, polished outline. Make sure the flap lies flat and the handle arches softly. Keep the size scaled so it reaches roughly from the bunny’s knee to lower skirt hem when placed beside her.
Wax Seal
This is a tiny flat round charm in muted red with a simple embossed-style marking in the center. It adds story and color to the scene. Keep it thin and flat.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
- Optional Round 4: crab stitch or slip stitch edging for a finished rim.
Embroider a tiny mark, curl, or simple line in the center using a slightly darker red. Do not make the detail too sharp. The effect should suggest a seal without drawing attention away from the bunny.
Flower Bouquet
The bouquet is made of several miniature white flowers gathered together with green stems. It is small enough to sit in front of the bunny’s feet. The blooms are daisy-like and delicate.
Mini Flowers
- Make 5 to 7 tiny flowers.
- Each flower: with yellow, make a tiny center ring.
- Join white and work 5 petals around the center using chains and slip stitches, or tiny sc-hdc combinations.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Leaves and Stem Wrap
- Make a few tiny green leaves.
- Bundle all flower stems together.
- Wrap with green yarn and secure with stitching.
The bouquet should stay compact. Keep the stems short. A slightly imperfect cluster looks more natural than a perfectly round arrangement. Angle the finished bouquet so the flower heads face upward and slightly toward the bunny.
Bird Companion
The little bird is round-bodied and dressed to match the bunny. It has a pale body, blue lower garment or coat, small wings, a blue beret, orange feet, and a white envelope with a red seal held at the front.
Bird Body
- Round 1: With cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: inc around. (12)
- Round 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
- Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
- Round 5: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
- Rounds 6 to 9: sc around. (30)
- Round 10: change to blue for lower coat section and sc around.
- Rounds 11 to 13: sc around. (30)
- Round 14: (3 sc, dec) around. (24)
- Round 15: (2 sc, dec) around. (18)
- Round 16: (sc, dec) around. (12)
- Round 17: dec around. (6)
Place tiny eyes between the cream body rounds before closing. Embroider or crochet a small beak centered between them. Stuff firmly so the bird looks pleasantly plump.
Bird Wings Make 2
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Round 2: (sc, inc) around. (9)
- Round 3: sc around. (9)
- Flatten slightly and sew to the sides.
Add one or two white feather-like tips at the back if you want to echo the visible tail and wing softness in the image. Keep them tiny and light.
Bird Hat
Make a mini beret in blue using the same method as the bunny’s beret but at a much smaller scale. Sew it slightly tilted. Add a tiny center nub for consistency with the main doll hat.
Bird Feet
- Make two tiny orange flat ovals or embroidered feet.
- Sew to the base so they peek from underneath the blue lower section.
Envelope
The bird holds a white envelope with a red seal. This detail is small but very important to the story of the set. Keep it flat and crisp.
- Chain a small rectangle width in white.
- Work enough rows of sc for a tiny envelope body.
- Fold the lower edge upward.
- Fold side corners inward if desired.
- Make a triangular flap and sew or tack it down lightly.
Add a tiny red stitched circle or miniature crocheted dot in the center for the seal. Sew the envelope to the front of the bird between the wings so it appears tucked under the bird’s little arms.
Joining the Bunny
Once all major parts are complete, assemble in this order for the cleanest result: legs to body, head to body, ears to head, arms to body, then dress the bunny with skirt, jacket, shoes, and beret.
Always pin first. Look at the front, side, and top view before sewing. Tiny changes in angle make a big visual difference. The ears should frame the face softly, and the head should sit straight with no backward tilt.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
- Sew the head firmly to the body so it sits centered and stable.
- Attach ears slightly behind the side eye line so they fall along the cheeks.
- Sew arms low enough that the jacket sleeves look natural.
- Dress the bunny in the skirt first, then the jacket.
- Add the button and pocket motifs last if placement needs adjustment.
- Tack the beret lightly so it stays tilted but removable if preferred.
- Put on the shoes and secure with a small hidden stitch if needed.
- Refine the face with tiny brow stitches and very soft blush.
Set the satchel, bouquet, seal, and bird around the bunny as shown. The full display works best when the accessories are close but not crowded. Leave a little open space so every piece can be seen clearly.
Care Notes
- Display indoors away from direct harsh sunlight.
- Dust gently with a clean dry brush.
- Do not pull on the tiny accessories.
- Store the satchel and bouquet separately if moving the doll.
- Keep the bird’s envelope flat to avoid bending.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head is round and evenly stuffed
- Eyes are centered and level
- Ears hang to matching lengths
- Jacket fronts curve evenly
- White motifs match in height and angle
- Skirt flares softly with a neat ruffle edge
- Beret tilts naturally
- Shoes align evenly under the legs
- Satchel flap lies flat
- Bird, bouquet, and seal are scaled to the bunny
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
For routine care, use a soft dry cloth or a clean makeup brush to remove dust from the stitches. Avoid scrubbing the face embroidery or decorative white motifs, since repeated friction can blur the delicate details.
If deeper cleaning is needed, spot clean only. Dampen a cloth with cool water and a tiny amount of mild soap, then dab gently. Do not soak the doll, bag, bouquet, or bird, because heavy moisture can distort stuffing and soften the structured pieces.
After spot cleaning, reshape each part with your hands and let everything dry completely on a towel. Keep the beret, jacket fronts, satchel flap, and envelope smooth while drying so they keep their original crisp silhouette.
For long-term storage, wrap the set loosely in acid-free tissue and place it in a breathable box. Do not compress the ears, skirt ruffle, hat, or bouquet. Keeping the set out of damp conditions will help preserve color, stitching, and shape.
