Peplum Petal-Tea Bunny – Crochet

This sweet amigurumi set brings together a dressed bunny doll, a tiny mouse friend, a teapot, a lace-style mat, and two cookies in a soft dusty-rose palette. It has the look of a handmade heirloom toy, boutique nursery decor piece, and collectible crochet doll set all in one.

The finished design also fits shoppers searching for an amigurumi bunny doll, crochet tea party decor, handmade stuffed rabbit, and giftable animal doll set. Every piece is shaped to echo the photo closely, with rounded proportions, petal textures, floral trims, and charming miniature accessories.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Design Overview

This pattern creates the full scene shown in the image:

• A standing bunny with long floppy ears
• A tilted beret with two white flowers and one leaf accent
• A sleeveless top with a peplum layer and shell motif
• A layered skirt with daisy trim and a scalloped lower edge
• Open sandals with ankle straps and daisy details
• A small mouse in a matching outfit and beret
• A rounded teapot with lid, spout, and handle
• A square lace-style mat
• Two small round cookies

The bunny is the main focus. The head is large and round, the body is smaller and softly tapered, the arms are slim, and the ears are long enough to fall beside the cheeks. The clothing is slightly oversized so the toy keeps the same gentle, dressed-up silhouette seen in the photo.

Materials

• Main bunny color: light cream or warm ivory cotton yarn, sport or light DK weight
• Dress, beret, sandals, mouse outfit, teapot lid: dusty rose cotton yarn, same weight
• Flowers: white cotton yarn
• Flower centers: yellow cotton yarn
• Leaves: muted olive green cotton yarn
• Mat: white cotton yarn
• Cookies: light biscuit brown yarn
• Lace bib motif: cream yarn, slightly thinner if available
• Hook: 2.25 mm to 2.75 mm, use the size that gives tight stitches
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
• Safety eyes: 8 mm for bunny, 4 mm for mouse
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Small amount of blush or pastel pencil for cheeks if desired
• Optional: thin plastic insert or cardboard circle for steady base inside bunny body

Size

If worked with sport or light DK cotton and a tight gauge, the bunny is about 10 to 11 inches tall from feet to top of head, not counting the beret slant. The mouse is about 3.5 to 4 inches tall. The teapot is about 3 inches wide with handle and spout.

Gauge and Style Notes

Exact gauge is less important than proportion. Your stitches should be tight enough that stuffing does not show. The sample in the image has dense, even rounds with a smooth amigurumi finish and very little visible stretch.

• Work body parts mostly in continuous rounds unless noted
• Mark the first stitch of each round
• Stuff gradually for smooth shaping
• Keep tension slightly firm so the doll stands cleanly

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• inc = 2 sc in 1 stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• FLO = front loop only
• BLO = back loop only
• st = stitch
• rnd = round

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Color Placement Notes for Accuracy

The palette is very controlled. The bunny body, head, ears, arms, and legs are cream. The dress, beret, mouse dress, and sandal straps are dusty rose. The daisy trims are white with yellow centers. The teapot body is cream with a dusty rose lid.

The skirt has two visible decorative zones. The upper trim is a line of tiny white flowers across the waist area. The lower edge is a deeper dusty-rose scalloped shell skirt. The chest carries a fan-shaped shell motif, and the neckline has a cream lace-like bib accent.

Bunny Head

The bunny head is nearly spherical but slightly wider at the cheeks than at the crown. It should look soft and plump, not tall or oval. The face sits low enough that the beret can cover part of the upper forehead while the eyes remain centered and open.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) around. (42)
8. Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) around. (48)
9. Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) around. (54)
10. Rnd 10: (8 sc, inc) around. (60)
11. Rnd 11-20: sc around. (60)

Insert the 8 mm safety eyes between rnds 13 and 14 with about 10 stitches between them. In the photo, the eyes are glossy, dark, and set fairly wide. They sit a little below the horizontal midpoint of the head, which gives the face a calm and youthful expression.

1. Rnd 21: (8 sc, dec) around. (54)
2. Rnd 22: (7 sc, dec) around. (48)
3. Rnd 23: (6 sc, dec) around. (42)
4. Rnd 24: (5 sc, dec) around. (36)

Begin stuffing firmly. Focus extra stuffing in the cheeks and front face. Avoid an overly hard crown. The sample has a smooth front with no nose protrusion, so the muzzle is embroidered rather than sculpted as a separate snout piece.

1. Rnd 25: (4 sc, dec) around. (30)
2. Rnd 26: (3 sc, dec) around. (24)
3. Rnd 27: (2 sc, dec) around. (18)
4. Rnd 28: (sc, dec) around. (12)
5. Rnd 29: dec around. (6)

Fasten off and close. Leave a tail if you prefer to shape the face lightly with one gentle horizontal pull under the eyes. Do not over-sculpt. The photo shows only the faintest cheek fullness and no deep indentations.

Bunny Nose and Mouth

Using soft rose or pale tan embroidery thread, stitch a tiny horizontal nose centered about 3 rounds below the eyes. The nose is short and neat, with a very subtle triangular softness. Add a tiny vertical line beneath it and split into a short Y-shaped mouth.

Apply a faint blush just under and outward from each eye. Keep it soft. The sample blush is barely there and should not overpower the cream face.

Bunny Ears Make 2

The ears are long, narrow, and gently flattened. They hang straight down with only a slight outward curve near the bottom. Each ear begins rounded at the tip and widens softly before staying mostly parallel down the length.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Rnd 5-8: sc around. (24)
6. Rnd 9: (10 sc, dec) twice. (22)
7. Rnd 10-24: sc around. (22)
8. Rnd 25: flatten and sc through both sides across 11 stitches, or leave open for sewing

Do not stuff the ears except for a touch at the top 1 inch if needed. They should drape flat. Sew them to the head at about rnds 8 through 11, one on each side, tucked slightly behind the eye line so they frame the face without covering the eyes.

Bunny Arms Make 2

The arms are slim tubes with slight tapering. They should hang down and angle outward a little after sewing. In the image, they are not bent. They are simple, smooth, and softly stuffed, ending just above the skirt line.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3-5: sc around. (12)
4. Rnd 6: (4 sc, dec) twice. (10)
5. Rnd 7-20: sc around. (10)
6. Rnd 21: flatten and sc through both sides across 5 stitches

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Stuff lightly, more at the hand end and less at the top. Leave a tail for sewing.

Bunny Legs Make 2

The legs are straight and narrow. They look even from ankle to thigh, with just enough stuffing to keep them cylindrical. The doll in the image stands with feet slightly apart, so keep both legs identical and not overly curved.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4-6: sc around. (18)
5. Rnd 7: (4 sc, dec) three times. (15)
6. Rnd 8-24: sc around. (15)

Stuff firmly. Flatten the top opening of each leg. Do not fasten off the second leg if you prefer to join directly into the body.

Bunny Body

The body is compact and slightly pear-shaped, narrower at the neck and fuller at the hips. The clothing will cover most of it, but the structure underneath matters. A steady body helps the layered dress sit wide and even.

1. Join both legs with 3 ch between them, or align and crochet across for a 36-stitch body base. Adjust if needed to keep symmetry. (36)
2. Rnd 1-3: sc around body and chain joins. (36)
3. Rnd 4: (5 sc, inc) around. (42)
4. Rnd 5-8: sc around. (42)
5. Rnd 9: (5 sc, dec) around. (36)
6. Rnd 10-12: sc around. (36)
7. Rnd 13: (4 sc, dec) around. (30)
8. Rnd 14-16: sc around. (30)
9. Rnd 17: (3 sc, dec) around. (24)
10. Rnd 18-20: sc around. (24)

Stuff the body firmly, especially the lower half. Add a plastic insert or stiff felt circle inside the base if you want extra stability. The upper body should remain slightly softer so the neck does not look too thick.

1. Rnd 21: (2 sc, dec) around. (18)
2. Rnd 22-23: sc around. (18)

Fasten off with a long tail for attaching the head. Sew the head centered on the neck opening. The finished doll should have a slight forward charm in the face, but the head must still sit balanced and upright.

Neckline Underlayer

Before sewing the dress pieces, crochet a narrow dusty-rose neckline band directly around the upper torso if you want a clean transition under the sleeveless top. Work one round of sc evenly around the top edge, then a second round of sc. Fasten off.

Upper Dress Bodice

The dress bodice is dusty rose and fitted at the torso. It is sleeveless and has soft shoulder coverage that resembles little cap shoulders. The front is plain except for the cream lace accent near the neckline and the large shell motif centered lower on the bodice.

You may crochet this bodice directly to the body or as a separate piece sewn on. Direct attachment gives the neatest fit.

1. Join dusty-rose yarn around upper torso where you want the bodice to begin.
2. Rnd 1: sc evenly around. Aim for 24 stitches.
3. Rnd 2-4: sc around. (24)
4. Rnd 5: shape slight arm openings by working 5 sc, ch 2, skip 2, 10 sc, ch 2, skip 2, 5 sc. (24 including chains)
5. Rnd 6-8: sc around, working into chain spaces. (24)

Do not make the armholes deep. In the image, the bodice rises high under the arms and keeps the doll modest and smooth. The neckline is rounded and close to the neck, not wide or off-shoulder.

Peplum Layer

This short peplum flares out over the skirt and forms the upper dress layer. It should sit like a small overskirt with a gentle bell shape. It ends around the high hip and helps create the layered tea-party silhouette seen in the image.

1. Join yarn to the lower edge of the bodice.
2. Rnd 1: work 2 sc in every 3rd stitch around to create a mild flare. Example: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around.
3. Rnd 2: sc around.
4. Rnd 3: in BLO, (3 sc, inc) around for more spread.
5. Rnd 4-5: sc around.

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For the peplum edge, work a very soft finishing round:

• (sl st, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sl st) in every 4 to 5 stitches as needed for a rounded edge

Keep these shells shallow. The edge in the image is decorative but not deeply ruffled.

Front Shell Motif

The large shell on the center front is a key detail. It sits low on the peplum, almost at the waist seam, and is gathered at the bottom center. This motif should look like a fan shell, not a flat appliqué circle.

1. With dusty-rose yarn, ch 9.
2. Work along the chain creating a half-oval base: sc in second ch, hdc in next, dc in next 2, tr in next 2, dc in next, 5 dc in last ch.
3. Continue on opposite side of chain: dc, tr in next 2, dc in next 2, hdc, sc.
4. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Add shell ridges by surface stitching from the lower center outward in 5 to 7 radiating lines. Pull the bottom center slightly as you sew to create the gathered shell base. Attach this motif centered on the bodice-peplum front.

Cream Lace Neck Accent

This small cream detail resembles a lace bib or tiny collar insert. It sits at the front neckline and fills the upper chest area. It should be light, open, and delicate, with little loops or picot-like points.

1. Ch 14 with cream yarn.
2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across. (13)
3. Row 2: ch 3, turn, skip first st, dc in next, ch 1, skip 1, dc in next across to create small openings.
4. Row 3: work small shells into spaces: (sc, ch 2, sc) or (sc, hdc, sc) depending on your preferred firmness.

Shape into a shallow U or pointed bib before sewing. Stitch it near the neckline center. The one in the photo is subtle and not too large, so keep it narrow enough that the pink bodice still dominates the chest.

Main Skirt Upper Band

The skirt begins under the peplum and extends farther out. It supports the daisy trim and the lower shell layer. To match the photo, the upper band should be even and fairly flat before the deeper scallops start below.

1. Join dusty-rose yarn around the waist under the peplum.
2. Rnd 1: work evenly around, about 36 stitches.
3. Rnd 2: (2 sc in next stitch, sc in next 2 stitches) around. (48)
4. Rnd 3-4: sc around. (48)

Daisy Trim for Skirt

This trim is a line of tiny white flowers placed around the upper skirt. The flowers touch side by side, creating a sweet border. Each flower has a yellow center and small white petals. Make enough to wrap around the visible front and sides, or all the way around.

Tiny Daisy Make 10 to 14

1. With yellow yarn, 6 sc in MR. Join with sl st.
2. Change to white yarn.
3. In each stitch work: sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st in same stitch.

This creates 6-petal daisies. If you prefer a flatter look, reduce each petal to ch 2, hdc, ch 2. Make the flowers quite small. Sew them edge to edge in a chain, then stitch the chain around the upper skirt band.

Lower Scalloped Skirt

The bottom skirt is deeper and more textured than the peplum. It forms broad dusty-rose scallops with a lace-shell look. This section is important because it gives the doll its dressed, layered fullness in the photo.

1. Join yarn to the lower part of the skirt band.
2. Rnd 1: in FLO, work (dc, ch 1, dc) in every other stitch around to establish lace spacing.
3. Rnd 2: in each space work 5 dc shell, then sc between shells. Adjust count so the shells sit evenly around.
4. Rnd 3: behind the shell row, use remaining loops or join anew and repeat a second shell round offset slightly for fullness.

If your shells become too stiff, use hdc and dc mixed together. The photographed skirt has strong rounded arches, but it still drapes softly rather than flaring sharply outward.

Sandals Make 2

The sandals are open-toe and light. They have a sole, a front strap decorated with a white daisy, and a slim ankle strap. They should cover only the bottom of the foot and leave the front toes visible as in the image.

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Sole

1. With cream yarn, ch 7.
2. Rnd 1: sc in second ch from hook and along, 3 sc in last ch, continue on opposite side, sc back, 2 sc in final ch. (14)
3. Rnd 2: inc at both ends and sc between to form a neat oval. Aim for 18 stitches.
4. Rnd 3: sc around in BLO. (18)

Front Strap

1. With dusty-rose yarn, attach across the front third of the sole.
2. Work 6 to 7 sc across one side, ch 1, turn.
3. Repeat for 3 rows to form a neat band.

Make 2 tiny daisies as used on the skirt trim and sew one at the center of each strap.

Ankle Strap

1. Attach dusty-rose yarn at one side of heel.
2. Ch enough to wrap around the ankle snugly, about 10 to 12 chains.
3. Sc back along chain if a firmer strap is desired.
4. Sew opposite end to sandal and add a tiny overlap look at the side.

Slide the sandals onto the feet before final stitching if needed. They should sit slim and close to the legs.

Beret

The beret is roomy, soft, and slanted heavily to the bunny’s left side. It covers the upper head and drops lower on one side. This piece must not fit like a tight cap. The photo clearly shows a relaxed French-style beret shape.

1. With dusty-rose yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) around. (42)
8. Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) around. (48)
9. Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) around. (54)
10. Rnd 10-13: sc around. (54)

Now reduce gently to create the head opening band.

1. Rnd 14: (7 sc, dec) around. (48)
2. Rnd 15: sc around. (48)
3. Rnd 16: (6 sc, dec) around. (42)
4. Rnd 17: sc around. (42)
5. Rnd 18: (5 sc, dec) around. (36)
6. Rnd 19: sc around. (36)

Try it on the bunny. It should sit low but still allow the eyes and most of the forehead to show. The top should slouch to one side naturally. Sew it down lightly at a few hidden points so it stays tilted.

Beret Flowers and Leaf

The beret in the image has two small white flowers grouped near the front edge, plus one olive leaf tucked behind. Make the flowers slightly larger than the skirt daisies so they read clearly from a distance.

Flower Make 2

1. With yellow yarn, 6 sc in MR. Join.
2. Change to white.
3. In each stitch: sl st, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, sl st in same stitch.

Leaf Make 1

1. With olive yarn, ch 6.
2. Work along chain: sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st.
3. Work opposite side similarly.

Sew the two flowers and one leaf to the front right side of the beret band as shown in the photo.

Small Mouse Head

The mouse is a miniature companion in matching colors. Its head is rounder and slightly narrower than the bunny’s. The muzzle is subtle, with a tiny pink nose. The ears are large circles set high and wide.

1. With cream yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Rnd 5-8: sc around. (24)

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Insert 4 mm eyes between rnds 6 and 7 with about 6 stitches between them.

1. Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) around. (18)
2. Rnd 10: (sc, dec) around. (12)
3. Rnd 11: dec around. (6)

Stuff and close. Embroider a tiny pink triangular nose and very short mouth lines. Keep the expression simple.

Small Mouse Ears Make 2

1. With cream yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)

Fasten off, flatten lightly, and sew to the head top sides. Add a tiny pink inner ear stitch or felt-free embroidered center if desired.

Small Mouse Body, Arms, and Legs

The body is tiny and simple because the dress covers much of it. Keep proportions compact and slightly conical.

1. Body rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4-6: sc around. (18)
5. Rnd 7: (sc, dec) around. (12)
6. Rnd 8-9: sc around. (12)

For arms, make 2 tiny tubes: 5 sc in MR, then 6 to 7 rounds sc around. For legs, make 2 small tubes: 6 sc in MR, then 7 to 8 rounds sc around. Stuff lightly and sew under the dress.

Small Mouse Dress and Beret

Match the main bunny styling in miniature. Crochet a small dusty-rose bodice around the upper mouse body, then add a short flared peplum and one lower scalloped round. The mouse dress is simpler but should clearly echo the larger dress.

Make a small beret using the same method as the bunny beret, stopping when the widest round reaches 24 stitches, then reducing to 18 stitches for the band. Sew it tilted on the mouse head.

Tiny Cookie Held by Mouse

The mouse holds one tiny biscuit. Make a flat circle:

1. With cookie-brown yarn, 6 sc in MR.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)

Fasten off. Add a few darker stitched dots for chocolate-chip holes or baked texture. Sew or tack lightly to the mouse hand.

Teapot Body

The teapot is round and plump with a cream body and a dusty-rose lid. It should sit low and wide, with a small knob, curved handle, and short pointed spout. The image shows a stylized teapot rather than a realistic tall one.

1. With cream yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
6. Rnd 6-10: sc around. (30)
7. Rnd 11: (3 sc, dec) around. (24)
8. Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec) around. (18)

Stuff well and close after adding the lid opening effect if desired. For a flatter base, press lightly while shaping.

Teapot Lid

1. With dusty-rose yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: sc around. (18)

For the knob:

1. 6 sc in MR, sc around 1 round, close and attach centered on the lid.

Sew the lid to the top of the teapot body.

Teapot Spout and Handle

Spout

1. With cream yarn, 4 sc in MR.
2. Rnd 2-4: sc around.
3. Rnd 5: (sc, inc) twice. (6)
4. Rnd 6-7: sc around.

Stuff lightly and shape to a point. Sew to one side of teapot, angling upward.

Handle

1. With cream yarn, ch 16.
2. Sc back along chain or work a narrow tube if you prefer more thickness.

Curve into an arch and sew to the opposite side of the pot.

Lace-Style Mat

The mat under the cookies is a small white square with rounded shell corners. It looks like a tiny doily napkin. It should stay fairly flat and have a decorative edge without becoming too lacy or floppy.

1. With white yarn, ch 13.
2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across. (12)
3. Row 2-10: ch 1, turn, sc across. (12)

Border:

• Work 3 sc in each corner and sc evenly around all sides.
• Second border round: in each corner work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) to create rounded points.
• Along straight edges, add small shell groups every 3 stitches if desired.

Cookies Make 2

The cookies are small, flat, and lightly textured. They look like tea biscuits with a few darker dots. Keep them slightly irregular for a handmade charm.

1. With cookie-brown yarn, 6 sc in MR.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)

Fasten off. Add tiny stitched dots in a slightly darker brown or with embroidery thread.

Assembly Order

1. Sew bunny head to body
2. Sew bunny ears in place
3. Sew bunny arms to upper body just below shoulder line
4. Attach bodice if made separately
5. Add peplum and lower skirt
6. Sew cream lace bib at neckline
7. Attach center shell motif
8. Sew daisy trim around upper skirt
9. Dress the feet with sandals
10. Place and secure beret
11. Make and assemble mouse
12. Make teapot, mat, and cookies

Shaping Notes for a Closer Match

To match the image more closely, do not overstuff the arms or ears. Keep the head full and round. Let the skirt carry most of the visual volume. The beret should be visibly soft and slanted, not centered flat on top.

The main bunny face is calm, the mouse face is slightly more alert, and the accessories are simple and rounded. The whole scene works best when every line stays gentle and no piece becomes sharp, stiff, or overly angular.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew all parts securely using small hidden stitches. Check that the bunny eyes are level, the nose is centered, and the mouth is tiny and soft. Angle the beret to the left, then place the flowers near the front edge. Add only a whisper of blush.

Care Notes

Keep the set away from rough play if used as decor. Small appliqués and flower centers should be stitched tightly. Light steaming from a safe distance can help flatten the mat and settle the skirt, but do not soak or overheat the fibers.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head centered and secure
• Ears even in length and placement
• Beret tilted and anchored
• Shell motif centered on front
• Daisy trim evenly spaced
• Sandals matched in size
• Mouse scaled smaller than teapot
• Cookies and mat proportionate to tea set

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap when possible. For deeper cleaning, hand wash gently in cool water, press in a towel, and reshape while drying flat. Store away from direct sunlight and dust. For long-term display, keep the set in a clean, dry space.