Tuberose Candlelight Bunny – Crochet.

Tuberose Candlelight Bunny – Crochet.

This soft amigurumi set captures a gentle heirloom look with a long-eared bunny, a lace-trimmed bonnet, a blue skirt decorated with tuberose sprays, tiny shoes, and matching spring accessories. It has the charm of a handmade stuffed bunny, collectible doll, nursery decor piece, and keepsake gift all in one.

The extra pieces give this design strong boutique appeal for makers who love artisan amigurumi, cottagecore decor, handmade toy styling, and giftable crochet dolls. The sweet palette, floral detailing, and candle accents also suit shoppers searching for a bunny doll set, lamb companion, floral amigurumi, or seasonal display piece.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

  • Main bunny color: light cream or warm ivory cotton yarn, DK or light worsted.
  • Skirt color: dusty pale blue cotton yarn.
  • Leaf color: soft sage green.
  • Flower color: white cotton yarn.
  • Nose detail: pale blush or dusty pink embroidery thread.
  • Eyebrow detail: dark brown or black embroidery thread.
  • Candle flame: golden mustard yarn.
  • Lamb accents: pale beige, cream, and a small amount of blush beige for the ears.
  • Lace trim: narrow cream crochet lace or a crocheted edging made in matching thread.
  • Hook sizes: 2.25 mm to 3 mm depending on your tension.
  • Safety eyes: one pair 10 mm for the bunny, one pair 6 mm for the lamb.
  • Stuffing: polyester fiberfill.
  • Optional stabilizer: pellets in a fabric pouch for the lower body.
  • Tapestry needle, stitch markers, sewing pins, scissors.

Finished Size

The bunny is designed to stand about 10 to 11 inches tall from the top of the head to the bottom of the shoes, not counting the highest bonnet scallop. The lamb companion is about 4 inches tall. The basket, bouquet, cloth, and candle bucket are sized to look balanced beside the main doll.

Abbreviations

  • MR = magic ring
  • ch = chain
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sc = single crochet
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • dc = double crochet
  • inc = 2 sc in one stitch
  • dec = invisible decrease
  • BLO = back loop only
  • FLO = front loop only
  • rep = repeat
  • st = stitch

Design Notes

  • Work the body parts in continuous rounds unless a row is mentioned.
  • Use a tight tension so the stuffing does not show through.
  • The image shows a rounded head, short neck, slim torso, slightly wider skirted lower body, long relaxed ears, and straight tapered arms.
  • The face is soft and widely spaced, with glossy black eyes, tiny angled brows, blush cheeks, and a small stitched nose-mouth detail.
  • The bonnet sits like a draped lace hood rather than a tight cap, so do not make it too shallow.

Main Bunny

Head

Start with the head in cream. Stuff firmly as you go so the cheeks stay smooth and rounded. The head in the image is almost spherical, but it is a touch wider through the face than at the crown, so keep the shaping gentle and even.

  1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Round 3: 1 sc, inc rep around. (18)
  4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc rep around. (24)
  5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc rep around. (30)
  6. Round 6: 4 sc, inc rep around. (36)
  7. Round 7: 5 sc, inc rep around. (42)
  8. Round 8: 6 sc, inc rep around. (48)
  9. Rounds 9 to 18: sc around. (48)

Insert the 10 mm eyes between rounds 12 and 13 with about 8 visible stitches between them. The eyes on the doll sit low and open the face, so avoid placing them too high. Add a small amount of stuffing behind the eye area before closing more of the head.

  1. Round 19: 6 sc, dec rep around. (42)
  2. Round 20: 5 sc, dec rep around. (36)
  3. Round 21: 4 sc, dec rep around. (30)
  4. Round 22: 3 sc, dec rep around. (24)

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Stuff the head firmly, shaping the cheeks with your fingers. The lower face should stay softly full, not pointed. Stitch the nose one round below the eyes, centered. Use pale pink thread to make a tiny vertical stitch and a short split stitch beneath it.

  1. Round 23: 2 sc, dec rep around. (18)
  2. Round 24: 1 sc, dec rep around. (12)

Finish stuffing. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for joining to the neck. Add lightly angled brows with dark thread. Each brow should be only two or three stitches long, slanting slightly upward toward the outer edge, matching the sweet calm expression in the image.

Blush and Face Shaping

Add soft blush on the cheeks below and a little outward from each eye. Keep it faint. If you like extra shaping, make a tiny pull at the eye corners from the back of the head, but do it very lightly. The face should look gentle, never deeply sculpted.

Ears Make 2

The ears are long, flat, and softly stuffed only at the top. They hang down beside the bonnet and reach to about the waist area. Their shape is slightly widened near the middle, then softly rounded at the tip. Work in cream.

  1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Round 3: 1 sc, inc rep around. (18)
  4. Rounds 4 to 7: sc around. (18)
  5. Round 8: 7 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 1 sc. (20)
  6. Rounds 9 to 22: sc around. (20)
  7. Round 23: 8 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec. (18)
  8. Rounds 24 to 30: sc around. (18)

Flatten the ear and sc through both sides for 6 stitches to close the open end. Leave a long tail. Add only a whisper of stuffing near the top third. The rest should remain soft and flexible. Sew the ears slightly behind the side eye line so they fall straight down.

Neck and Upper Torso

The bunny has a compact upper body with a neat narrow neck and a small bust area. Begin at the neck opening. You may work the body from the neck downward and later join the head, or make the head first and crochet the body separately. This version starts the body from the neck.

  1. Round 1: 18 sc in MR style foundation or around an 18-st ring. (18)
  2. Rounds 2 to 4: sc around. (18)
  3. Round 5: 2 sc, inc rep around. (24)
  4. Rounds 6 to 10: sc around. (24)
  5. Round 11: 3 sc, inc rep around. (30)
  6. Rounds 12 to 16: sc around. (30)

This section forms the chest and upper waist. Lightly stuff. The image shows a smooth body under the dress, so do not overstuff the torso. It should stay straight and slim, especially above the waist lace.

Lower Body and Hips

  1. Round 17: in BLO, sc around. (30)
  2. Round 18: 4 sc, inc rep around. (36)
  3. Rounds 19 to 24: sc around. (36)
  4. Round 25: 5 sc, inc rep around. (42)
  5. Rounds 26 to 30: sc around. (42)

Add a small pouch of pellets or extra stuffing at the base if you want the doll to stand better. The skirt hides the lower body shape, but the figure should still be slightly fuller at the bottom than at the chest.

  1. Round 31: 5 sc, dec rep around. (36)
  2. Round 32: 4 sc, dec rep around. (30)
  3. Round 33: 3 sc, dec rep around. (24)

Fasten off, leaving a tail if you want to sew the lower opening closed after adding the legs. If you prefer, you may leave the opening for direct leg joining. The body is mostly covered by the top and skirt, so clean construction matters more than surface shaping.

Arms Make 2

The arms are straight, lightly tapered, and quite simple. They angle slightly downward from the shoulder. The image shows no paws or pads, just a clean amigurumi tube with a softly rounded hand end.

  1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Rounds 3 to 5: sc around. (12)
  4. Round 6: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec. (10)
  5. Rounds 7 to 18: sc around. (10)
  6. Round 19: flatten and sc through both sides for 4 stitches.

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Stuff only the lower half firmly and the upper half lightly. Leave a tail and sew the arms at rounds 8 to 10 of the torso. Angle them slightly forward and down so they rest naturally against the sides of the dress.

Legs Make 2

The legs are short, straight, and mostly hidden by the skirt, with little ankle visibility above the shoes. Work in cream. The feet can be made separately as shoes or built into the legs. For the cleanest finish matching the image, make shoes separately.

  1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Round 3: 1 sc, inc rep around. (18)
  4. Rounds 4 to 9: sc around. (18)
  5. Round 10: 7 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec. (16)
  6. Rounds 11 to 13: sc around. (16)

Stuff lightly. Flatten the top and sew the legs to the base of the body so they sit close together. The finished doll in the image stands with both feet planted under the skirt, so symmetry is important here.

Dress and Clothing Details

Upper Bodice

The bunny appears to wear a fitted cream top integrated with a separate blue skirt. The neckline is open enough to show the shoulder straps decorated with tiny flowers. Work the bodice as a snug tube covering the upper torso.

  1. Foundation: chain to fit around the upper torso, join carefully without twisting. Use about 28 to 30 stitches.
  2. Rounds 1 to 5: sc evenly around to make a smooth fitted top.

Try it on the doll as you work. The top should end around the natural waist, right where the lace trim sits in the image. Fasten off and sew neatly in place if you prefer a permanent garment rather than a removable one.

Shoulder Straps

Make two slender straps in dusty pale blue. Each strap should be narrow and slightly curved over the shoulder. Chain a length that reaches from the upper front edge to the back edge. Work one row of sl st or sc back across. Sew in place.

The straps on the doll are decorated with small white flowers, so position them where they remain visible on the front chest rather than too close to the outer shoulder line.

Waist Lace Trim

The waist has a delicate cream edging that separates the bodice from the blue skirt. Work into the lower edge of the bodice or attach afterward as a separate strip.

  1. Round 1: join cream at waistline, ch 1, sc around.
  2. Round 2: ch 1, rep sl st in next st, ch 3, skip 1 st, sc in next st around.

This creates a fine eyelet effect. You may also sew on a narrow lace trim if you want an even closer vintage finish. Keep the trim petite. It should frame the waist, not flare outward too much.

Skirt

The skirt is a soft A-line shape in dusty pale blue. It is not heavily gathered. Instead, it widens gently, letting the tuberose appliques remain the focus. Start at the waist and work downward.

  1. Round 1: join blue to the waistline front loops from body round 17 or to the lower edge of the bodice. Sc around evenly, about 36 stitches.
  2. Round 2: sc around. (36)
  3. Round 3: 5 sc, inc rep around. (42)
  4. Round 4: sc around. (42)
  5. Round 5: 6 sc, inc rep around. (48)
  6. Rounds 6 to 11: sc around. (48)
  7. Round 12: 7 sc, inc rep around. (54)
  8. Rounds 13 to 17: sc around. (54)

Fasten off. The hem should reach low enough to leave only the shoes visible. Do not make it too long. In the image, the white lace peeks out beneath the blue skirt and the shoes remain clearly visible from the front.

Skirt Hem Lace

Join cream at the lower edge of the skirt and add a simple decorative border.

  1. Round 1: sc around.
  2. Round 2: rep sl st in next st, ch 3, dc in next st, ch 2, skip 1 st around.

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You may replace this with a very narrow sewn lace if you like. The hem trim should echo the waist lace and bonnet lace so the whole set looks coordinated and soft.

Tuberose Sprays on the Skirt

The front of the skirt features several hanging tuberose stems with elongated green leaves and clusters of white drooping buds. These motifs are essential to the look. Make three main sprays for the front and add two smaller side clusters if desired.

Leaf Stem Base Make 3 Large

  1. Ch 12.
  2. Starting in second ch from hook: sl st, 2 sc, 3 hdc, 3 dc, 2 hdc, sl st.

Fasten off, leaving a tail. Make a second mirrored leaf for each spray if you want fuller volume. The leaves in the image are long, upright, and slightly padded by layering, so stitch two side by side or overlap them slightly.

Tuberose Bud Strand Make 3 Large Hanging Clusters

Each hanging flower group is made from a central chain with tiny oval buds attached. The buds should point downward and cluster near the lower half of each stem.

  1. Ch 14.
  2. On the chain, sl st in first 3 chains.
  3. For each bud: ch 4, work 3 sc back along that ch, sl st to main chain.
  4. Repeat the bud 4 to 5 times along one side, spacing them with 1 sl st.
  5. Turn to work the opposite side if desired, making 2 or 3 more buds near the lower end.

Make the buds plump by slightly rolling each one between your fingers after blocking. Sew each white bud strand under a green leaf pair so it hangs downward. Arrange three sprays across the front of the skirt, evenly spaced.

Small Side Blossoms

The image also shows small white floral accents near each side seam. Make tiny blossoms by working 5 petals around a small center.

  1. Round 1: 5 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: in each stitch work sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st.

Make two or four and sew near the side edges of the skirt, just above the lower lace. These should be subtle support details, not the main motif.

Chest Flower Garland

Across the front neckline and blue straps, the bunny wears a small string of white blossoms. These flowers soften the top and connect visually to the skirt decoration. Make 4 or 5 tiny flowers and stitch them along a curved green or cream thread path.

Tiny Flowers Make 5

  1. Round 1: 5 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: in each stitch work sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st.

Add a tiny yellow or cream knot in the center if you want the same floral brightness seen in the bouquet and companion accessories. Sew the flowers along the front straps and upper chest so they form a light garland from one shoulder to the other.

Bonnet Hood

The head covering is one of the most important features in the set. It is soft, draped, and edged with scalloped lace around the face opening. It also extends back and down like a small hood rather than a flat headband.

Bonnet Base

Use cream yarn or a finer cream cotton if you want extra delicacy. Begin at the face opening.

  1. Ch 30.
  2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across. (29)
  3. Rows 2 to 8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (29)

Now shape the crown.

  1. Row 9: dec, sc across to last 2 sts, dec. (27)
  2. Row 10: sc across. (27)
  3. Row 11: dec, sc across to last 2 sts, dec. (25)
  4. Continue in this way until you have about 15 stitches.
  5. Fold the bonnet and sew the back seam.

Try it on the head. The opening should frame the face loosely and fall low enough to let the ears emerge from underneath the side edges. Adjust the starting chain if your bunny head is larger or smaller.

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Bonnet Face Lace

Join cream thread around the front opening.

  1. Round 1: sc evenly around the opening.
  2. Round 2: rep sl st in next st, ch 3, 3 dc in next st, ch 3, sl st in next st, skip 1 st around.

This creates the scalloped edge seen around the face. Keep it soft and delicate. The lace should stand slightly away from the face but still drape naturally. Add a second lighter frill row if you want even more texture.

Bonnet Top Lace Strip

The top of the bonnet appears textured with a lacey ridge. Work a narrow strip separately if desired and stitch it over the crown seam.

  1. Ch 18.
  2. Row 1: sc across.
  3. Row 2: rep ch 3, skip 1, sc in next.

Sew it along the top center of the bonnet from front to back. This small detail helps the hood match the image more closely.

Shoes Make 2

The shoes are rounded Mary Jane style slippers in cream with tiny raised dots near the opening. They are low and neat, with a soft strap impression rather than a bulky closure. Work them to fit snugly over the finished legs.

  1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Round 3: 1 sc, inc rep around. (18)
  4. Round 4: in BLO, sc around. (18)
  5. Rounds 5 to 6: sc around. (18)
  6. Round 7: 5 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc. (16)
  7. Round 8: sc around. (16)

To make the little decorative pearls around the opening, use French knots in cream thread or make tiny bobble stitches every few stitches on the top edge. Sew the shoes onto the feet so they sit slightly forward and rounded.

Basket with Candle

The small handled basket at the bunny’s side is striped in cream, pale beige, and blue. Inside is a candle with a golden flame. This piece adds a lovely seasonal story and should be made firmly so it sits upright.

Basket Base

  1. Round 1: with blue, 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Round 3: 1 sc, inc rep around. (18)
  4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc rep around. (24)
  5. Round 5: in BLO, sc around. (24)
  6. Round 6: switch to pale beige, sc around. (24)
  7. Rounds 7 to 10: switch to cream, sc around. (24)

Fasten off. Add a cardboard circle covered in fabric if you want a firmer base.

Basket Handle

  1. Ch 18.
  2. Row 1: sl st back along the chain.

Sew both ends to opposite sides of the basket rim. Curve it upward in a soft arc.

Candle Insert

  1. With cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Rounds 3 to 5: sc around. (12)

Stuff lightly. For the flame, make 4 sc in MR with golden yarn, then shape into a tiny cone. Sew the candle into the basket center so only the upper portion shows.

Handkerchief Cloth

The folded cloth beside the basket is square, cream, and lace-trimmed. This is a simple but important prop in the set. Use finer yarn or crochet thread for the prettiest result.

  1. Ch 16.
  2. Rows 1 to 14: sc across, ch 1, turn.

Border all around with one round of sc. For the edging, rep sl st, ch 3, sl st in the next stitch around. Fold one corner inward for the styled display if desired.

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Flower Bouquet

The bouquet is made of small white daisy-like blossoms with yellow centers and green wrapped stems. It sits in front of the bunny and balances the white floral details on the dress. Make 5 to 7 blossoms.

Blossoms

  1. With yellow, 6 sc in MR.
  2. Join white.
  3. In each stitch work: sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st.

Make several. For stems, cut green yarn strands or crochet short cords. Bundle the stems together and wrap tightly with green yarn. Trim neatly. Sew the bouquet so it stays clustered rather than flat.

Lamb Companion with Candle Bucket

The little lamb is a second character, not just a decoration. It has a cream face, tiny black eyes, floppy side ears in pale beige, a textured hood, a white dress with lace edging, and a striped candle bucket held in front. Keep the lamb petite and rounded.

Lamb Head

  1. Round 1: with pale cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Round 3: 1 sc, inc rep around. (18)
  4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc rep around. (24)
  5. Rounds 5 to 8: sc around. (24)

Insert 6 mm eyes between rounds 6 and 7 with 5 or 6 stitches between them. Stitch a tiny black or dark brown nose and short mouth. The face is very small, so keep all embroidery delicate.

  1. Round 9: 2 sc, dec rep around. (18)
  2. Round 10: 1 sc, dec rep around. (12)

Stuff and close.

Lamb Ears Make 2

  1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR.
  2. Round 2: sc around.
  3. Round 3: 1 sc, inc rep around. (9)
  4. Round 4: sc around.

Flatten and sew to the side of the head. Use a pale blush beige or light taupe inner tone like the image.

Lamb Body

  1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Round 3: 1 sc, inc rep around. (18)
  4. Rounds 4 to 7: sc around. (18)
  5. Round 8: 1 sc, dec rep around. (12)

Stuff lightly and close. Attach the head directly without a visible neck.

Lamb Arms Make 2

  1. Round 1: 5 sc in MR.
  2. Rounds 2 to 5: sc around.

Sew the arms to the front sides so the candle bucket can rest between them.

Lamb Hood

The lamb wears a frilled cream hood around the head. Make a small cap base with a scalloped opening similar to the bunny bonnet, but much shorter and closer to the face. Sew in place after fitting around the ears.

Lamb Dress

Make a simple cream skirted band around the body with one round of sc and one lace edging round. It should flare slightly and sit like a tiny pinafore skirt.

Lamb Candle Bucket

Use the same method as the main basket, but work a much smaller version in cream and pale blue. Add a tiny candle with mustard flame. Sew it securely into the lamb’s hands.

Assembly

  1. Sew the head to the torso securely.
  2. Attach the ears slightly behind the side face line so they fall under the bonnet.
  3. Sew the arms to the sides with a mild downward angle.
  4. Attach the legs evenly so the bunny stands balanced.
  5. Add the bodice, straps, waist lace, skirt, and hem lace.
  6. Sew the tuberose sprays to the front of the skirt.
  7. Add the tiny chest flower garland across the straps.
  8. Fit and stitch the bonnet in place, letting it drape naturally.
  9. Add the shoes to the feet.
  10. Make and arrange the basket, cloth, bouquet, and lamb.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check that the eyes, brows, blush, nose, and mouth all sit low and soft on the face. The expression should look calm and sweet. Adjust the bonnet so the face opening frames the cheeks evenly. Let the ears hang freely beneath the hood for the same relaxed look as the image.

Care Notes

Keep the set away from rough play if you want the lace and floral details to stay crisp. It works best as a decorative amigurumi piece, shelf doll, or gift display. Store the bouquet and basket beside the bunny when not handled to avoid bending the small appliques.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Head round and evenly stuffed
  • Eyes low and centered
  • Brows gently angled
  • Bonnet opening softly scalloped
  • Blue skirt wide enough to cover hips
  • Three tuberose sprays placed across the front
  • Chest flowers attached to the straps
  • Shoes even in height
  • Basket, cloth, bouquet, and lamb all finished

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a barely damp cloth and mild soap. Do not soak pieces with stuffing, safety eyes, or layered floral appliques. Reshape while drying flat on a towel. Keep out of direct sunlight to preserve the pale cream and dusty blue tones, and store in a dry place to protect the lace and stitched details.

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