This elegant amigurumi bunny set is designed for makers who love heirloom-style crochet dolls, collectible rabbit decor, and handmade gift ideas. The finished set includes a dressed bunny, a tiny companion puppy, a tea cup and saucer, and a vintage-style tea tin that suits nursery decor, cottage displays, and boutique handmade toy lovers.
With its cloche hat, lace-trim dress, sweet crossbody pouch, and delicate tea-time props, this design has the look of a premium handmade bunny doll you might search for in artisan toy shops. It is a charming choice for anyone looking to make a crochet rabbit doll, keepsake soft sculpture, or luxury handmade baby shower gift.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Overview
This pattern creates a graceful bunny with a calm vintage look.
The main figure has a rounded head, long soft ears, a slim neck, straight arms, sturdy standing legs, a cream dress with a lace hem, a short open-front vest, a rounded cloche hat with a flower, a tiny pouch, and flat Mary Jane shoes.
The accessories are an important part of the full scene.
You will also make a small tea cup, a saucer, a rectangular tea tin, and a miniature puppy dressed to match the bunny. The puppy wears a small hat, a cream top, a beige jacket, and blue-gray trousers with white paws showing below.
The finished bunny should stand taller than all the props and noticeably taller than the puppy.
If you use the yarn weights below, the bunny will be about 9.5 to 10.5 inches tall from the soles to the top of the hat. The puppy will be about 3 to 3.5 inches tall. The cup, saucer, and tea tin remain small display accents.
Materials
- Main bunny skin tone yarn: light warm beige cotton or cotton blend, sport or light DK
- Dress, hat, shoes, trims: soft ivory or cream cotton, sport or light DK
- Vest and pouch: pale beige matching the bunny skin tone but slightly lighter or slightly pink-beige
- Puppy muzzle and body: cream, medium brown, dark brown, and a little beige
- Puppy trousers: muted blue-gray
- Tea: medium cocoa brown
- Tea tin label detail: black or dark gray embroidery thread if desired
- Hook sizes: 2.0 mm for most pieces, 1.75 mm for small props and lace edging
- Safety eyes: 6 mm for bunny, 4 mm for puppy
- Stuffing: fine polyester fiberfill
- Optional weights: a few steel pellets or glass beads in secure inner pouches for the bunny feet
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Straight pins
- Thin cardboard or plastic canvas: optional inserts for saucer and tea tin base
- Fabric glue: optional for label only, not for structural seams
Yarn Notes
Choose smooth yarn with clear stitch definition.
This design looks best when the fabric is firm and neat. Keep your tension slightly tight so the doll holds shape cleanly. The stitches in the image are compact, even, and refined rather than fluffy or loosely textured.
If your crochet naturally works loose, go down one hook size.
The lace hem on the dress should still drape softly, but the body pieces, hat, arms, legs, puppy, cup, and tea tin should feel structured.
Abbreviations
- MR = magic ring
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- inc = 2 sc in same stitch
- dec = invisible decrease
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- st = stitch
- sts = stitches
- rep = repeat
General Construction Notes
- Work in continuous rounds unless a row is specified.
- Use a stitch marker at the start of each round.
- Stuff gradually and firmly, but do not overstuff the head or hat.
- For the cleanest look, use invisible decreases everywhere visible.
- The bunny dress is made separately and slipped onto the body before the head is sewn in place.
- The vest is made as a separate open-front piece.
- The pouch, shoes, and hat are removable if you prefer, but they can also be lightly tacked in place.
- The puppy is made as a separate mini amigurumi with its own small garments.
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Main Bunny
Legs Make 2
The legs in the image are slim, straight, and slightly tapered near the ankle.
The feet are small and oval, designed to fit neatly inside the Mary Jane shoes. Keep the soles flat and the front of each foot gently rounded.
- With beige, ch 7.
- Round 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, working on opposite side sc 4, inc in last st. Total 14 sts.
- Round 2: inc, sc 4, inc x3, sc 4, inc x2. Total 20 sts.
- Round 3: sc around.
- Round 4: sc 6, dec x4, sc 6. Total 16 sts.
- Round 5: sc 4, dec x4, sc 4. Total 12 sts.
- Stuff front of foot lightly.
- Rounds 6-20: sc around 12.
- For the first leg, fasten off.
- For the second leg, do not fasten off.
Body
The body is simple and narrow, allowing the dress to define the silhouette.
The chest is not wide. The waist remains gentle and straight. The finished doll should look elegant, not chubby.
- From second leg, ch 4 and join to first leg.
- Round 21: sc around first leg 12, sc across chain 4, sc around second leg 12, sc across other side of chain 4. Total 32 sts.
- Round 22: sc around.
- Round 23: sc 10, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 10. Total 30 sts.
- Rounds 24-27: sc around.
- Round 28: sc 9, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 9. Total 28 sts.
- Rounds 29-31: sc around.
- Round 32: sc 5, dec, sc 12, dec, sc 7. Total 26 sts.
- Round 33: sc around.
- Round 34: sc 4, dec, sc 11, dec, sc 7. Total 24 sts.
- Rounds 35-38: sc around.
- Stuff body firmly, especially at hips and lower torso.
- Round 39: sc 2, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 10. Total 22 sts.
- Round 40: sc around.
- Round 41: BLO sc around 22. This gives a subtle neck edge for the dress line and helps hold the head nicely.
- Round 42: sc around 22.
- Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing head later.
Arms Make 2
The arms are long, slim, and gently curved inward so the hands rest near the front of the dress.
Do not overstuff. The lower arm should stay soft enough to shape toward the pouch.
- With beige, MR 6.
- Round 2: inc around. Total 12 sts.
- Rounds 3-5: sc around.
- Round 6: sc 4, dec x2, sc 4. Total 10 sts.
- Rounds 7-18: sc around 10.
- Round 19: sc 3, dec, sc 5. Total 9 sts.
- Rounds 20-22: sc around 9.
- Stuff hand and lower arm lightly only.
- Flatten opening and sc 4 through both layers.
- Leave long tail for sewing.
Head
The bunny head is almost spherical, but slightly fuller at the cheeks.
The face in the image is calm and minimal. Keep the muzzle smooth and do not sculpt strong cheeks. The eyes are set moderately wide and low enough to feel gentle under the brim of the hat.
- With beige, MR 6.
- Round 2: inc around. Total 12 sts.
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x6. Total 18 sts.
- Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x6. Total 24 sts.
- Round 5: (sc 3, inc) x6. Total 30 sts.
- Round 6: (sc 4, inc) x6. Total 36 sts.
- Round 7: (sc 5, inc) x6. Total 42 sts.
- Round 8: (sc 6, inc) x6. Total 48 sts.
- Rounds 9-17: sc around 48.
- Insert 6 mm safety eyes between Rounds 12 and 13 with 9 visible sts between them.
- Round 18: (sc 6, dec) x6. Total 42 sts.
- Round 19: (sc 5, dec) x6. Total 36 sts.
- Round 20: (sc 4, dec) x6. Total 30 sts.
- Stuff firmly and evenly.
- Round 21: (sc 3, dec) x6. Total 24 sts.
- Round 22: (sc 2, dec) x6. Total 18 sts.
- Round 23: (sc, dec) x6. Total 12 sts.
- Finish stuffing.
- Round 24: dec x6. Total 6 sts.
- Fasten off and close.
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Ears Make 2
The ears hang straight down from beneath the hat brim.
They are medium width, softly rounded at the tip, and not heavily stuffed. A light flattening gives the relaxed droop visible in the image.
- With beige, MR 6.
- Round 2: inc around. Total 12 sts.
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x6. Total 18 sts.
- Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x6. Total 24 sts.
- Rounds 5-8: sc around 24.
- Round 9: sc 10, dec x2, sc 10. Total 22 sts.
- Round 10: sc around.
- Round 11: sc 9, dec x2, sc 9. Total 20 sts.
- Rounds 12-18: sc around 20.
- Round 19: sc 8, dec x2, sc 8. Total 18 sts.
- Rounds 20-23: sc around 18.
- Flatten lightly. Do not stuff, or add only a touch at the upper ear if you want a little body.
- Flatten opening and sc 6 through both layers.
- Leave long tail for sewing.
Face Embroidery
The face is one of the most important details.
The nose is a tiny stitched Y shape placed low and centered. The image shows no separate nose patch, blush, or eyelashes. Keep the expression very quiet and refined.
- With dark brown or black thread, mark the center point about 2 rounds below the eyes.
- Embroider a short vertical stitch about 2 stitches long.
- From the lower end of that stitch, work two diagonal stitches upward left and upward right to form a delicate Y.
- Do not make the mouth too wide.
Dress
Upper Dress Bodice
The dress is cream and sleeveless under the vest.
The top section fits close to the torso and falls into a wider skirt. The image shows subtle horizontal striping from rows, so this section looks best worked in even rounds or joined rounds with clean finishes.
- With cream, ch 26 and join carefully without twisting.
- Round 1: sc around 26.
- Rounds 2-7: sc around 26.
- Round 8: (sc 6, inc) x3, sc 5. Total 29 sts.
- Round 9: sc around.
- Round 10: (sc 6, inc) x4, sc 1. Total 33 sts.
- Round 11: sc around.
- Round 12: (sc 7, inc) x4, sc 1. Total 37 sts.
- Round 13: sc around.
- Round 14: (sc 8, inc) x4, sc 1. Total 41 sts.
Skirt
The skirt should open softly and sit just below the knees.
The lace border is the key visual feature. It should feel airy and decorative, but still balanced with the simple top of the dress.
- Round 15: (sc 9, inc) x4, sc 1. Total 45 sts.
- Round 16: sc around.
- Round 17: (sc 4, inc) around. Total 54 sts.
- Round 18: sc around.
- Round 19: (sc 5, inc) around. Total 63 sts.
- Round 20: sc around.
- Round 21: (sc 6, inc) around. Total 72 sts.
- Round 22: sc around.
- Round 23: (sc 7, inc) around. Total 81 sts.
- Round 24: sc around.
Lace Hem
This edge is inspired by a floral lace look similar to Queen Anne lace.
You do not need to copy a doily pattern exactly, but the hem should create scalloped, openwork clusters with pointed little arches. Keep the look delicate and balanced all the way around.
- Round 25: *sc 1, ch 3, skip 1* around. Join.
- Round 26: sl st into first ch-3 space, *(sc, ch 4, sc) in next ch-3 space* around.
- Round 27: sl st into next ch-4 space, *(sc, ch 5, sc) in each ch-4 space* around.
- Round 28: in first ch-5 space work *(sc, hdc, 3 dc, picot, 3 dc, hdc, sc)*, skip to next space and repeat around.
- Round 29: optional refinement round, sl st loosely through each motif center and add tiny ch-2 picots between shells where needed to sharpen the edge.
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If you want a fuller lace finish, lightly steam block only the hem.
Do not overblock the bodice.
Open-Front Vest
The bunny wears a short beige vest with cream lace bands running down both fronts.
This piece should sit open at the center and end around the upper skirt. It is more of a decorative overlayer than a fitted cardigan.
Base Vest
- With pale beige, ch 26.
- Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across. Total 25.
- Rows 2-8: ch 1, turn, sc across.
- Row 9: right front shaping, sc 5, turn. Work 3 more rows over these 5 sts.
- Rejoin yarn to center section, skip 5 sts for neckline, sc 10, turn. Work 4 rows over center back section.
- Rejoin yarn to final 5 sts for left front. Work 4 rows.
- Sew shoulder tops lightly so the piece becomes a simple sleeveless vest.
Front Lace Panels Make 2
The image shows narrow vertical cream trim with repeated rounded openings.
These can be worked separately and sewn on for a neat finish.
- With cream, ch 18.
- Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across 17.
- Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc 2, ch 3, skip 2, sc 3, ch 3, skip 2, sc to end.
- Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc across, working 3 sc in each ch-3 gap.
- Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc 1, hdc 2, dc 1, picot, dc 1, hdc 2, sc across repeat spacing as desired to create a decorative side edge.
- Make the strip long enough to run from shoulder to waist.
- Sew one strip to each front opening of the vest.
Cloche Hat
The hat is smooth, rounded, and slightly deep so it sits low over the forehead.
The brim angles down around the sides and front. A simple band circles the hat, and a small layered flower sits on one side. This piece is essential to the full silhouette.
- With cream, MR 6.
- Round 2: inc around. Total 12 sts.
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x6. Total 18 sts.
- Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x6. Total 24 sts.
- Round 5: (sc 3, inc) x6. Total 30 sts.
- Round 6: (sc 4, inc) x6. Total 36 sts.
- Round 7: (sc 5, inc) x6. Total 42 sts.
- Round 8: (sc 6, inc) x6. Total 48 sts.
- Round 9: (sc 7, inc) x6. Total 54 sts.
- Rounds 10-17: sc around 54.
- Try on the head. The hat should sit snugly but not tightly.
- Round 18: BLO sc around 54 to create the brim break.
- Round 19: sc around.
- Round 20: (sc 8, inc) x6. Total 60 sts.
- Round 21: sc around.
- Round 22: (sc 9, inc) x6. Total 66 sts.
- Round 23: sc around.
- Fasten off.
Hat Band
- With cream, ch enough to wrap around the hat above the brim break, usually 48 to 52 chains.
- Row 1: sl st in second ch from hook and across for a narrow smooth band.
- Sew around the hat.
Hat Flower
- With cream, ch 16.
- Work 2 dc in each chain across to create a ruffle strip.
- Roll tightly from one end into a spiral flower.
- Sew to one side of hat band.
Pouch
The pouch is a tiny rectangular beige bag with a rounded flap trimmed in cream.
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It hangs at the front of the bunny and is held visually by the hands. It should sit just above the center of the skirt.
- With beige, ch 9.
- Round 1: sc 7, 3 sc in last ch, sc 6 on opposite side, inc in last. Total 18 sts.
- Rounds 2-5: sc around.
- Fasten off.
- For flap, join cream to back upper edge, ch 1, sc 6 across.
- Next rows: turn and dec at each side until 2 sts remain.
- Add one small picot or tiny shell at the center of flap edge.
- Make strap: with beige, ch long enough to cross the body from shoulder to pouch, about 28 to 32 chains.
- Sl st back across chain for firmness.
- Sew strap to pouch sides.
Mary Jane Shoes Make 2
The shoes are cream, flat, and close-fitting with a small strap across the top.
They should not be chunky. Keep them smooth and neat so the feet still look delicate.
- With cream, ch 7.
- Round 1: sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, sc 4, inc. Total 14 sts.
- Round 2: inc, sc 4, inc x3, sc 4, inc x2. Total 20 sts.
- Round 3: BLO sc around.
- Round 4: sc 5, dec x5, sc 5. Total 15 sts.
- Round 5: sc around.
- Fasten off.
- Strap: join yarn at one side opening, ch 5, attach to opposite side with sl st.
- Optional tiny button knot may be embroidered.
Tea Cup
The cup is tiny, round, and white with visible brown tea inside.
Because it is very small, tight stitches make the best result. Keep the sides straight with only a slight flare at the lip.
- With cream, MR 6.
- Round 2: inc around. Total 12 sts.
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x6. Total 18 sts.
- Round 4: BLO sc around 18.
- Rounds 5-6: sc around.
- Round 7: switch to brown in FLO only and sc around for the tea surface.
- Fasten off brown.
- With cream, rejoin in outer loops of Round 7 and work one neat sl st round for lip.
- Handle: ch 5, sl st back along chain, sew to side.
Saucer
- With cream, MR 6.
- Round 2: inc around. Total 12 sts.
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x6. Total 18 sts.
- Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x6. Total 24 sts.
- Round 5: FLO sl st around for a flat finish.
- Fasten off and flatten.
Tea Tin
The tea tin in the image is a small rectangular canister with a pale label.
It stands upright beside the cup. The label may be simplified, but the object should clearly read as a vintage tea tin.
Main Tin
- With beige, ch 8.
- Round 1: sc 6, 3 sc in last ch, sc 5, inc. Total 16 sts.
- Round 2: inc, sc 5, inc x3, sc 5, inc x2. Total 22 sts.
- Round 3: BLO sc around.
- Rounds 4-13: sc around 22.
- Stuff firmly or insert a tiny block of foam.
- Round 14: sc around.
- Fasten off.
Top Lid
- Repeat base oval with one round fewer so it fits neatly on top.
- Sew in place.
Label
- With cream, make a flat rectangle matching the front of the tin.
- Sew or glue the label to the front.
- Use fine embroidery or fabric pen to add a border and tiny stacked lettering if desired.
- Keep it subtle, since the image detail is very small.
Mini Puppy
The puppy is small, upright, and slightly rounded with drooping brown ears.
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It has a cream muzzle, dark nose, cream chest, beige jacket, blue-gray trousers, white feet, and a small cream hat. This tiny companion gives the full scene its storybook charm.
Puppy Legs and Lower Body
- Make 2 legs in white, MR 6.
- Round 2: inc around to 12.
- Round 3: sc around.
- Round 4: change to blue-gray, sc around.
- Rounds 5-7: sc around 12.
- Fasten off first leg. On second leg do not fasten off.
- Join with ch 2.
- Next round: sc around both legs and chains for about 28 sts total.
- Work 3 rounds even in blue-gray.
- Change upper front area to cream if desired for shirt line, or cover later with jacket.
Puppy Torso
- Continue upward with beige or cream underlayer for 4 rounds.
- Decrease once evenly on next round to narrow torso.
- Work 2 rounds even.
Puppy Head
- With medium brown, MR 6.
- Round 2: inc around 12.
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 = 18.
- Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x6 = 24.
- Round 5: (sc 3, inc) x6 = 30.
- Rounds 6-9: sc around.
- Insert 4 mm eyes between Rounds 7 and 8 with 5 or 6 visible sts between.
- Round 10: (sc 3, dec) x6 = 24.
- Round 11: (sc 2, dec) x6 = 18.
- Stuff.
- Round 12: (sc, dec) x6 = 12.
- Fasten off after closing.
Puppy Muzzle
- With cream, ch 5.
- Round 1: sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, sc 2, inc. Total 10.
- Round 2: inc, sc 2, inc x3, sc 2, inc x2. Total 16.
- Fasten off and sew to lower face.
- Embroider small dark nose and short mouth.
Puppy Ears Make 2
- With dark brown, MR 6.
- Round 2: inc around 12.
- Rounds 3-5: sc around.
- Flatten and sew to head sides.
Puppy Arms Make 2
- With beige, MR 6.
- Round 2: inc around 12.
- Round 3: sc around.
- Rounds 4-7: sc around 12 or reduce to 10 if preferred.
- Flatten and sew to sides.
Puppy Jacket
- With beige, ch enough to wrap around the torso front to back.
- Work short rows in sc to form a simple open-front jacket.
- Make two tiny front panels and a short back panel joined at shoulders.
- Sew lightly around puppy shoulders and sides.
Puppy Shirt Front
- Use cream to add a small front chest bib if your body was not already cream there.
- Sew neatly under the jacket opening.
Puppy Hat
- With cream, MR 6.
- Increase to a flat circle that fits the top of the head, about 18 to 24 sts.
- Work 2 rounds even for shallow depth.
- Add one small brim round with slight increase.
- Sew or tack onto head.
Assembly
Assembling the Bunny Body
- Sew the head to the body with the neck centered and straight.
- Sew arms to the upper sides of the body around the shoulder line.
- Angle the arms slightly downward and inward so the hands rest near the front center.
- Sew ears to the sides of the head, a little behind the eye line, so they fall from beneath the hat brim.
Dressing the Bunny
- Slide the dress onto the body from the bottom before final head tightening if needed.
- Position the bodice smoothly and keep the skirt centered.
- Place the vest over the dress and sew only lightly at the shoulders or side edges if you want it to stay put.
- Put the shoes onto the feet and tack at the heel if necessary.
Adding the Pouch
- Place the strap diagonally or straight at the front depending on your preferred look.
- In the image, the pouch sits centered at the front with the hands visually meeting it.
- Tack the pouch gently to the dress so it does not swing too low.
Adding the Hat
- Place the cloche hat low over the forehead.
- The brim should sit just above the eyes without covering them.
- Center the flower to one side.
- Tack the hat to the head at the crown and sides so it keeps the same angle.
Staging the Tea-Time Set
To recreate the image feel, place the tea tin at the bunny’s left side and the cup on the saucer in front of it.
Position the puppy to the bunny’s right side. Keep the puppy smaller and slightly lower so the bunny remains the main focus.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Check the face first while the hat is on the head.
The eyes should still be fully visible, and the stitched mouth should sit exactly centered between them. If the face looks too serious, reduce the depth of the mouth embroidery instead of widening it.
- Make sure both ears hang at the same level.
- Check that the arms mirror each other and meet naturally at the pouch.
- Keep the vest fronts even and symmetrical.
- Straighten the hat band before final tacking.
- Lightly block the lace hem if needed so the scallops open evenly.
Care Notes
This set is decorative and contains small parts, so it is best treated as a collectible rather than a rough-play toy.
- Store away from direct sunlight to protect the soft cream shades.
- Keep the lace hem flat when not displayed.
- Avoid hanging the bunny by the hat or pouch strap.
- If using safety eyes and small props, keep away from very young children.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head centered and secure
- Eyes aligned and evenly spaced
- Mouth centered and delicate
- Ears matched in length and placement
- Dress sitting straight
- Lace hem opened evenly
- Vest fronts symmetrical
- Hat snug and angled correctly
- Pouch centered at front
- Shoes level so the bunny stands well
- Puppy smaller in scale and firmly assembled
- Tea cup, saucer, and tin proportioned neatly beside the doll
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
For routine care, use a clean dry brush or a soft microfiber cloth to remove dust.
If a deeper clean is needed, spot clean only with cool water and a tiny amount of mild soap. Press gently with a cloth. Do not soak the doll, the puppy, or the tea props unless all pieces are unweighted and securely stitched.
- Reshape the hat brim and ears while damp.
- Lay flat to dry on a towel.
- Do not wring or twist the lace hem.
- Keep cardboard inserts away from water.
- For long-term storage, wrap in acid-free tissue and place in a breathable box.
This completes the full Queen Anne Lace Tea-Time Bunny set with every visible detail from the scene: the elegant bunny, the soft lace dress, the cloche hat, the pouch, the tea cup and saucer, the tea tin, and the tiny dressed puppy companion.


