Magnolia Rain-Ribbon Bunny – Crochet

This soft amigurumi bunny is designed as a romantic heirloom doll with a blush hood, puff sleeves, flower-panel skirt, tiny shoes, and sweet companion pieces. It has the look of a handmade crochet bunny doll you might search for as a nursery gift, collectible plush, or boutique spring decor piece.

The set also includes a small gray tote, a spray of white blossoms, a lace-style mat, and a miniature woodland friend dressed to match. If you love artisan stuffed animal patterns, cottagecore doll outfits, and elegant amigurumi display pieces, this project gives you a full styled set in one coordinated design.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This design is worked mostly in continuous rounds unless noted. The main doll has a large round head, a compact torso, slim legs, softly rounded arms, long lop ears, and a separate hooded dress outfit.

The visual balance matters. The head should look large and gentle, the body should look short and tidy, and the skirt should stand away from the body in a soft bell shape. Keep stitches even and firm so the surface stays smooth.

The outfit in the image is very refined. The bodice is cream with three raised floral motifs centered on the chest. The skirt is dusty pink with two vertical cream flower panels and a scalloped white hem peeking below.

The hood frames the face closely without hiding it. Two long tie cords finish in a neat bow under the chin. The shoes are rounded Mary Jane style. The accessory pieces are small, decorative, and delicate, so neat finishing is important.

Materials

• Main yarn: sport or light DK cotton for the cleanest stitch definition
• Colors: warm cream, dusty blush pink, soft gray, white, pale yellow, light tan, caramel brown, black, and a very small amount of rosy brown for nose embroidery
• Hook sizes: 2.25 mm for the doll and miniature pieces, 2.5 mm for the skirt and bag if you want a slightly softer drape
• Safety eyes: 8 mm for the bunny, 4 mm for the mini companion
• Stuffing: fine polyester fiberfill
• Notions: stitch markers, yarn needle, pins, scissors, fabric glue optional for securing tiny flowers
• Optional support: a short plastic stick or rolled felt insert inside the body if you want the doll to stand more firmly for display

Finished Size

Using sport cotton and a 2.25 mm hook, the main bunny stands about 24 to 27 cm tall from foot to top of hood. The mini companion measures about 8 to 10 cm tall. The tote is about 6 cm tall.

If your tension is looser, the doll will become slightly taller and softer. Keep stitches tight enough that stuffing does not show through the fabric. That smooth, polished finish is one of the most important visual details in this design.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• sc = single crochet
• inc = 2 sc in one stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• sl st = slip stitch
• ch = chain
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• FLO = front loop only
• BLO = back loop only
• picot = ch 3, sl st in first ch

Color Placement Notes

• Use cream for head, ears, body, arms, legs, and shoe soles
• Use blush pink for hood, skirt, shoe straps, and dress accents
• Use white for underskirt scallops and flower petals
• Use pale yellow for flower centers
• Use gray for the tote and the mini companion hood tie and bag
• Use caramel and cream for the mini companion head coloring

Main Bunny Head

The head is nearly spherical with a very slight flattening at the face. Do not overstuff the lower front area, because the face in the image is smooth and soft rather than protruding.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR
2. R2: inc x6 = 12
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 = 18
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 = 24
5. R5: (3 sc, inc) x6 = 30
6. R6: (4 sc, inc) x6 = 36
7. R7: (5 sc, inc) x6 = 42
8. R8: (6 sc, inc) x6 = 48
9. R9: (7 sc, inc) x6 = 54
10. R10: (8 sc, inc) x6 = 60
11. R11-R22: sc around = 60

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Insert eyes between R14 and R15 with about 11 visible stitches between them. The eyes should sit wide apart for a sweet, calm expression. Add stuffing gradually as you work.

1. R23: (8 sc, dec) x6 = 54
2. R24: (7 sc, dec) x6 = 48
3. R25: (6 sc, dec) x6 = 42
4. R26: (5 sc, dec) x6 = 36
5. R27: (4 sc, dec) x6 = 30
6. R28: (3 sc, dec) x6 = 24

Stop here, stuff firmly, and leave a long tail for joining to the neck. Do not close the head yet if you prefer to sew it onto the body with the opening still flexible.

Facial Embroidery

Embroider a tiny horizontal nose centered between the eyes, about two rounds below eye level. Use rosy brown or muted pink. Add a short vertical stitch descending from the center of the nose for the mouth split.

The mouth should be understated. In the image, the face is very minimal. Do not add blush unless you want a slightly warmer display version. If you do, use the faintest possible tint.

Ears Make 2

The ears are long, soft, and low-set. They should hang down beside the head and reach to about the upper arm area once attached. They are slightly wider at the base and taper gently.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR
2. R2: inc x6 = 12
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 = 18
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 = 24
5. R5-R7: sc around = 24
6. R8: (10 sc, dec) x2 = 22
7. R9-R11: sc around = 22
8. R12: (9 sc, dec) x2 = 20
9. R13-R15: sc around = 20
10. R16: (8 sc, dec) x2 = 18
11. R17-R22: sc around = 18

Flatten the ear and crochet 9 sc through both layers to close the base. Do not stuff. Lightly steam-block if needed so the front edge looks smooth and elegant.

Legs Make 2

The legs are slim cylinders with small rounded feet. The doll in the image stands with feet slightly apart, so keep the foot shape compact rather than long.

Foot and Lower Leg

1. R1: 6 sc in MR
2. R2: inc x6 = 12
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 = 18
4. R4: BLO sc around = 18
5. R5-R6: sc around = 18
6. R7: 5 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc = 14
7. R8: sc around = 14
8. R9: 4 sc, 3 dec, 4 sc = 11
9. R10-R22: sc around = 11

Stuff the foot firmly and the leg more lightly. Fasten off first leg. Make second leg but do not fasten off.

Body

Join the legs with the feet pointing forward. The body is short and slightly pear-shaped, but the dress covers most of it. Keep the neck centered and strong to support the larger head.

1. R23: ch 4 and join to first leg, sc 11 around first leg, 4 sc across chain, 11 sc around second leg, 4 sc other side of chain = 30
2. R24-R26: sc around = 30
3. R27: (3 sc, dec) x6 = 24
4. R28-R30: sc around = 24
5. R31: (2 sc, dec) x6 = 18
6. R32-R34: sc around = 18
7. R35: (sc, dec) x6 = 12
8. R36-R39: sc around = 12

Stuff the torso firmly, especially the lower body. Leave a long tail for sewing the head. If desired, insert a short support inside the body before final stuffing.

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Arms Make 2

The arms are softly stuffed, slightly curved, and proportioned to end near the upper skirt. The sleeves cover the top of each arm, so the arm itself can remain simple and clean.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR
2. R2: inc x6 = 12
3. R3-R4: sc around = 12
4. R5: (4 sc, dec) x2 = 10
5. R6-R16: sc around = 10

Stuff only the hand and lower forearm. Flatten the top and close with 5 sc through both layers. Leave a tail for sewing. Angle the arms slightly inward when attaching so the pose feels soft and shy.

Dress Bodice

The bodice appears fitted and neat, with a cream central front and pink framing details created by the separate skirt and hood. You may crochet the bodice directly onto the body or make it as a removable shell.

For the cleanest fit matching the image, work a fitted bodice around the upper torso in cream.

1. Join cream yarn at the waistline around R30 of body.
2. R1: sc evenly around 24 stitches
3. R2-R4: sc around = 24

At the front center, sew three tiny puff flowers stacked vertically. These should sit close together between the hood ties and above the skirt waistband.

Mini Puff Flowers for Bodice Make 3

1. With cream yarn, ch 4 and join into a ring.
2. Into ring work: (yo, insert, pull up loop, yo, insert, pull up loop, yo, pull through all loops, ch 1) five times to form 5 puff petals.
3. Fasten off and shape.

Sew one at upper chest center, one directly below, and one just above the skirt line. Keep them narrow and aligned vertically, because the image shows a tidy central decorative column.

Puff Sleeves Make 2

The sleeves are separate and slightly ballooned. They sit high on the arm and are gathered at both top and lower edge. This detail is essential for matching the doll’s soft vintage dress silhouette.

1. R1: 18 sc in MR or ch 18 and join carefully
2. R2: (2 sc, inc) x6 = 24
3. R3-R4: sc around = 24
4. R5: BLO sc around = 24
5. R6: (2 sc, dec) x6 = 18
6. R7: sc around = 18

Fasten off with a tail. Slip each sleeve over an arm before sewing the arm to the body. Gather the top edge lightly with a running stitch if you want extra fullness.

Skirt

The skirt is dusty blush pink and slightly flared. It should sit from the waist and spread into a structured bell. The center front panel is plain pink, while the two side front panels hold cream strips with small white flowers.

1. Join blush yarn to waistline under the bodice.
2. R1: FLO 24 sc around
3. R2: (3 sc, inc) x6 = 30
4. R3: sc around = 30
5. R4: (4 sc, inc) x6 = 36
6. R5: sc around = 36
7. R6: (5 sc, inc) x6 = 42
8. R7: sc around = 42
9. R8: (6 sc, inc) x6 = 48
10. R9-R14: hdc around = 48

Change to a rhythm of slightly taller stitches for the lower skirt if you want more drape, but keep the fabric firm. The photographed skirt shows visible horizontal rows and a structured surface, so hdc works beautifully here.

Underskirt Scallop

Join white yarn to the unused back loops from skirt Round 1 or make a separate underskirt strip and sew inside. Work: (sl st, skip 1, 5 dc in next st, skip 1) around. This creates the little white scallops visible beneath the pink hem.

Flower Panel Strips Make 2

Each strip runs vertically from waistband to near hem. Make in cream.

1. Ch 18.
2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across = 17
3. Row 2-R14: ch 1, turn, sc across = 17

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Lightly block each strip. Sew them to the skirt front so they angle outward slightly from the waist toward the hem, leaving a blush center panel between them.

Small Daisy Appliqués Make 8 to 10

1. With white yarn, 5 sc in MR.
2. In each stitch work: sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st.

Add a tiny pale yellow knot or French knot in the center. Sew four or five flowers down each cream strip. Space them evenly, with the lowest flower just above the scalloped hem.

Hood

The hood is one of the signature details of this design. It frames the face in a smooth blush border and drapes around the head without looking bulky. It should cover the crown and sit behind the ears.

Begin with an oval face opening border and build backward over the head.

1. Ch 32.
2. R1: sc in second ch from hook and across 29, 3 sc in last ch, continue on opposite side with 29 sc, 3 sc in final stitch = 64
3. R2: sc around = 64
4. R3: (15 sc, inc) x4 = 68
5. R4-R8: sc around = 68

Fold the hood so the back edges meet. Seam the upper back third only, leaving the face opening wide and rounded. Test fit often. The lower sides should rest just behind the cheeks.

Hood Edge Cord Tie

Work a long chained cord or Romanian cord in blush yarn, about 45 to 50 cm long. Weave it through the lower hood edge or sew two separate ties to the neckline area.

Tie into a large soft bow under the chin. The bow loops in the image are generous and rounded, and the tails hang to the upper bodice area.

Shoes Make 2

The shoes are pale blush Mary Janes with rounded toes and a narrow strap. They should look slightly oversized compared with the slim ankles, which adds charm and stability.

1. With cream or very pale blush, ch 7.
2. R1: sc in second ch from hook, 4 sc, 3 sc in last ch, continue opposite side 4 sc, 2 sc in final = 14
3. R2: inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc = 20
4. R3: BLO sc around = 20
5. R4-R5: sc around = 20
6. R6: 6 sc, 4 dec, 6 sc = 16
7. R7: sc around = 16

Fasten off and leave opening for foot insertion. For the strap, attach blush yarn at one side opening, ch 6, skip across the opening, and sew to the opposite side. Add a tiny stitched knot to suggest a button.

Main Bunny Assembly

1. Sew ears to the head at about eye level, slightly behind the side line of the face.
2. Sew head to body securely, checking that the face points straight ahead.
3. Slide sleeves onto arms and sew arms just below the neckline.
4. Dress the body with skirt and bodice details.
5. Attach hood last so you can balance the face frame neatly around the eyes and cheeks.
6. Put on shoes and tack in place with a few hidden stitches.

The bunny should stand with feet slightly apart, ears falling close to the shoulders, and the hood bow centered under the chin. Adjust the skirt evenly so the two flower panels appear symmetrical from the front.

Mini Tote Bag

The gray bag in the image is small and pear-shaped with a narrow opening and short handle. It has tiny white blossom accents on one side. This piece is decorative, but it completes the styled look.

1. With gray yarn, R1: 6 sc in MR
2. R2: inc x6 = 12
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 = 18
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 = 24
5. R5-R10: sc around = 24
6. R11: (2 sc, dec) x6 = 18
7. R12: sc around = 18
8. R13: (sc, dec) x6 = 12

Flatten the opening lightly. For the handle, join yarn to one side, ch 16, attach to opposite side with sl st, then sc back across the chain for a firmer strap. Add two or three tiny white blossom knots near the lower front.

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Flower Stem Accessory

This accessory is a short spray of white blossoms with green stems wrapped together in a pale band. Make three to five tiny flowers and join them to short crocheted or wrapped stems.

• For each flower, make the same small daisy as used on the skirt panel.
• For each stem, ch 10 in green and sl st back along the chain.
• Wrap the stems together with cream yarn for about 1.5 cm and knot securely.

Let the flowers angle in slightly different directions so the bundle looks natural and soft rather than rigid.

Lace Mat Accent

The tiny lace square in the image looks like a folded handkerchief or decorative cloth. A simple filet-style square will capture the same effect without becoming too bulky.

1. With cream thread or very fine yarn, ch 14.
2. Row 1: dc across.
3. Rows 2-5: alternate open and filled spaces using dc and ch 1.
4. Finish with a shell edge: 5 dc in each corner space, sc along sides.

Lightly dampen and block flat. Fold one corner over before displaying, just like the styled sample.

Mini Companion

The companion appears as a tiny caramel-and-cream woodland friend with round ears, black eyes, a pale muzzle, a blush dress, and a gray hooded tie with a small front bag. The proportions are simple and very cute.

Mini Head

1. With caramel, R1: 6 sc in MR
2. R2: inc x6 = 12
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 = 18
4. R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 = 24
5. R5-R8: sc around = 24

Use cream yarn to create a face patch by surface stitching an oval or by sewing on a small crocheted muzzle piece. Insert 4 mm eyes wide apart. Embroider a tiny black nose and short mouth line.

1. R9: (2 sc, dec) x6 = 18
2. R10: (sc, dec) x6 = 12

Stuff and close.

Mini Ears Make 2

1. 6 sc in MR
2. inc x6 = 12
3. sc around

Flatten and sew to the top sides of the head.

Mini Body

1. With cream, R1: 6 sc in MR
2. R2: inc x6 = 12
3. R3: (sc, inc) x6 = 18
4. R4-R6: sc around = 18
5. R7: (sc, dec) x6 = 12

Stuff lightly and sew to head.

Mini Arms Make 2

1. 6 sc in MR
2. R2-R5: sc around = 6

Attach at the sides.

Mini Dress

Join blush yarn around the lower body: sc around, then increase gradually for 3 to 4 rounds until the skirt flares slightly. Add a white scallop edge just as on the main doll, but smaller.

Mini Hood and Bag

Make a tiny gray hood using the same oval-start method as the main hood, scaled down to fit the companion head. Add a short tie bow. Crochet a micro gray pouch and sew it to the front side so it hangs like a crossbody or apron-side bag.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the head angle first. A slight forward tilt gives the bunny a gentle expression. Make sure both ears hang evenly and the hood opening frames the eyes without crowding them.

Center the nose exactly. Keep the mouth tiny. If needed, indent the eye area very slightly with thread sculpting, but do it sparingly. The expression in the image is calm, simple, and soft.

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Arrange the skirt so the center pink panel stays straight. The two flower strips should mirror each other. Position the bow neatly and adjust the loops so they are rounded, not narrow.

Care Notes

• Display pieces are best kept away from prolonged direct sunlight
• Do not machine wash if you used safety eyes, shaping stitches, or glued miniature details
• Spot-clean small marks as soon as possible
• Store flat or upright with skirt supported so the shape remains crisp

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Eyes level and evenly spaced
• Nose centered and small
• Ears matched in height and angle
• Arms sewn symmetrically
• Flower panels balanced on skirt front
• White underskirt scallops visible
• Hood bow centered
• Shoes aligned forward
• Mini tote, blossoms, lace cloth, and companion completed

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For routine care, use a soft dry brush or gentle lint roller to remove dust. Clean the cream sections carefully because darker fibers can transfer onto pale yarn if rubbed aggressively.

If deeper cleaning is needed, dab with cool water and a tiny amount of mild soap on a cloth. Press, do not scrub. Blot again with clean water and reshape the piece while damp.

Dry the doll flat on a towel away from heat. Never hang while wet, because the stuffing weight can distort the neck, sleeves, and skirt. Reshape the hood bow and flower appliqués before fully dry.

For long-term storage, wrap the doll and accessories in acid-free tissue and place them in a breathable box. Avoid plastic bags in humid conditions. Keep the tiny blossoms and lace accent separate so they do not crush.