Camellia Tea Party Bunny – Crochet

This charming crochet set is designed to look like a collectible handmade bunny doll with soft vintage colors, a flower-trimmed dress, a matching bonnet, a little floral bag, a tiny dressed cat friend, and a small folded cloth accessory. It has the feel of a boutique amigurumi doll, a spring nursery keepsake, and a sweet handmade gift for shoppers looking for a bunny doll pattern, floral amigurumi decor, or a collectible stuffed animal style piece.

The finished set is especially lovely for makers who enjoy heirloom-inspired crochet, cottagecore nursery decor, and giftable handmade toys. The main bunny is styled like a dressed doll rather than a simple plush, so the shaping, outfit layers, and accessories matter. If you love searching for amigurumi bunny doll designs, crochet toy outfit ideas, or handmade Easter bunny gift pieces, this project gives you a complete coordinated set.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern recreates the full scene as closely as possible: a standing long-eared bunny in a mustard dress and bonnet, large layered camellia flowers, cream scalloped front ruffles, flower-trimmed shoes, a matching tote bag, a tiny cat doll in clothes and hat, and a small folded cloth accessory.

The main bunny is the centerpiece. The head is large and rounded, the body is smaller and hidden partly by the dress, the ears are long and soft, the arms are slim and cylindrical, and the legs are straight with short feet. The outfit gives most of the visual volume.

The dress is not a narrow tube. It widens clearly from the waist into a bell shape. The skirt edge is decorated with evenly spaced camellia flowers, each with a soft pink center and cream outer petals. The upper front has two cream decorative ruffles that sit like vertical scalloped straps.

The bonnet is close-fitting, rounded, and simple, with two large layered camellias attached on the left and right front sides. The flowers are large enough to frame the face. The bunny’s expression is minimal, with shiny black eyes, a tiny pink triangular nose, and a short centered mouth detail.

The smaller cat accessory follows the same overall visual language: rounded head, small body, simple face, little hat with flower trim, blue top, green skirt, and short limbs. It should look like a companion piece, not a realistic cat plush.

Skill Level

Intermediate. A confident beginner can make it with patience, but the many accessories, shaping details, layered flowers, and careful assembly place it above a basic amigurumi project.

Finished Size

• Main bunny: about 11 to 13 inches tall from feet to top of bonnet, depending on yarn and tension.
• Mini cat: about 4 to 5 inches tall.
• Bag: about 3 inches tall without handles.
• Folded cloth accessory: about 1 to 1.5 inches square.

Materials

• Light worsted or DK cotton yarn in cream, mustard, dusty pink, soft leaf green, light blue, and pale yellow.
• Crochet hook appropriate for tight amigurumi fabric. Usually 2.25 mm to 3 mm.
• Black safety eyes for the bunny and the mini cat, or black embroidery thread if you prefer embroidered eyes.
• Polyester stuffing.
• Tapestry needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Sewing pins or clips for assembly.
• Thin cardboard or plastic canvas scraps if you want firmer bag base or shoe soles.
• Embroidery thread in soft pink, cream, and a tiny amount of brown or taupe for facial shaping if needed.

Suggested Colors

• Cream: head, body, arms, legs, ears, collar details, shoe accents, bag base, flower outer petals.
• Mustard: bonnet, dress, shoe tops, mini cat hat brim and accent band.
• Dusty pink: flower centers, mini bag body stripes, tiny facial nose embroidery.
• Soft green: tiny leaf details, mini cat skirt.
• Light blue: mini cat blouse.
• Pale yellow or cream with yellow edge: folded cloth accessory.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase, 2 sc in 1 stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• rep = repeat

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Important Notes Before You Begin

• Work the amigurumi parts in continuous rounds unless noted.
• Stuff firmly but not so hard that stitches spread open.
• The overall look depends on proportion. Keep the head noticeably larger than the body.
• The dress and bonnet are essential for matching the image. Do not skip the flower placement.
• Layered camellias should be full, soft, and slightly raised rather than flat.
• If your yarn is thicker, reduce a few skirt increase rounds so the dress does not become oversized.

Main Bunny

Head

The head is a nearly spherical shape with a gentle flattening at the face. It is not long or oval. The cheeks should appear soft and full, and the lower face should remain rounded rather than pointed.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. R4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. R5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
6. R6: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
7. R7: 5 sc, inc around. (42)
8. R8: 6 sc, inc around. (48)
9. R9: 7 sc, inc around. (54)
10. R10-R18: sc around. (54)

Insert the eyes between R12 and R13 with about 9 visible stitches between them. In the image, the eyes sit wide enough apart to leave a broad sweet face. They are placed slightly lower than center, not too high.

1. R19: 7 sc, dec around. (48)
2. R20: 6 sc, dec around. (42)
3. R21: 5 sc, dec around. (36)

Begin stuffing firmly. Shape the cheeks with your fingers while stuffing. Continue.

1. R22: 4 sc, dec around. (30)
2. R23: 3 sc, dec around. (24)
3. R24: 2 sc, dec around. (18)
4. R25: 1 sc, dec around. (12)
5. R26: dec around. (6)

Fasten off and close. Leave a tail if you prefer to use the top as the bonnet anchor point, but that is optional.

Facial Shaping

The face needs a tiny, delicate finish. Use dusty pink yarn or embroidery floss to create a small horizontal triangle nose centered about 2 rounds below the eyes. Add a short vertical stitch down from the center of the nose, then two tiny slanted stitches for the mouth.

If desired, add the faintest sculpting by pulling a strand from the eye corners inward and down slightly. Keep it subtle. The image shows a smooth face, not a deeply sculpted one.

Ears Make 2

The ears are long, soft, and gently tapered. They hang down past the jaw and toward the dress shoulders. They are not stiff upright ears.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. R4-R8: sc around. (18)
5. R9: 7 sc, dec, 9 sc. (17)
6. R10-R14: sc around. (17)
7. R15: 6 sc, dec, 9 sc. (16)
8. R16-R24: sc around. (16)

Flatten each ear lightly and close the top with 6 to 7 stitches through both layers. Do not stuff. Leave a long tail for sewing. Sew them to the head slightly below the bonnet line so they fall from the side area rather than from the very top.

Body

The body is smaller than the head and fairly simple because the dress covers most of it. Keep it compact and softly stuffed.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. R4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. R5-R9: sc around. (24)
6. R10: 2 sc, dec around. (18)
7. R11-R13: sc around. (18)

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Stuff firmly. Fasten off with a long tail for attaching to the head. The neck should stay slightly narrower than the head base so the head looks prominent and doll-like.

Arms Make 2

The arms are slim tubes with a tiny taper at the hand end. They should reach just below the waist when attached. They are lightly stuffed at the lower part only.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3-R5: sc around. (12)
4. R6: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec. (10)
5. R7-R17: sc around. (10)

Stuff the hand area lightly, then leave the upper arm unstuffed for easier flattening. Flatten and close the top. Leave a tail for sewing.

Legs Make 2

The legs are straight and fairly narrow. They are visible below the skirt, so keep them tidy and even.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3-R5: sc around. (12)
4. R6: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec. (10)
5. R7-R18: sc around. (10)

Stuff firmly. Fasten off on the first leg. Finish the second leg but do not cut the yarn if you want to join them directly to form the lower body base. Another option is to sew both legs separately to the underside of the body.

Feet and Shoes Make 2

The shoes are part foot, part decorative cover. The visible look is a rounded mary-jane style shoe with cream sole and mustard upper, plus a small pink flower accent on the outer side of each strap area.

Foot Base in Cream

1. Ch 6.
2. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc, 3 sc in last ch, working on other side 3 sc, 2 sc in last. (12)
3. R2: inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc. (18)
4. R3: 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, 1 sc, inc x3, 3 sc, 1 sc, inc x2. (24)
5. R4: BLO sc around. (24)
6. R5-R6: sc around. (24)

Stuff lightly and attach the leg centered to the top opening. You can sew the leg into the foot opening and then build the shoe top afterward, or make the shoe top separately and sew over the foot.

Shoe Top in Mustard

Join mustard yarn at the front center and work across the front half only for a neat shoe cap.

1. Row 1: 8 sc across front.
2. Row 2: dec, 4 sc, dec. (6)
3. Row 3: sc across. (6)

Add a cream strap with ch 8 to 10, sew each end to the shoe sides. Make a tiny flower for each shoe and sew at the outer side where the strap meets the shoe.

Assembly of Base Bunny

• Sew the legs evenly under the body if not joined already.
• Sew the head firmly to the body with the face centered.
• Sew the arms at the side just below the neck line.
• Sew the ears on each side of the head so they hang naturally beside the face.

Before adding clothing, stand the bunny and adjust the limbs. The image shows a straight, balanced pose with both feet flat and the arms hanging naturally.

Mustard Dress

The dress is one of the most important visual features. It has a fitted bodice, short puff sleeves, and a flared skirt. It should sit like a doll dress and cover the top of the legs, ending above the ankles so the shoes remain visible.

Bodice

You may either crochet the dress directly onto the body or make it separately and sew or fasten it in place. For the closest fit, working directly around the body is easiest.

1. With mustard yarn, make a foundation that fits around the upper torso. For most DK versions, this will be about 24 stitches.
2. R1-R4: sc around. Keep the fabric snug. Do not flare yet.
3. R5: work 2 rounds of hdc around for a slightly softer texture at the waistline.

The image shows a clear visual transition from upper bodice to skirt. A slightly denser bodice and broader lower skirt helps reproduce that shape.

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Puff Sleeves Make 2

The sleeves are small and rounded. They sit at the shoulder line and are visible beside the cream ruffles.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: sc around. (12)
4. R4: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec. (10)

Flatten lightly and sew each sleeve to the bodice shoulder area. Do not overstuff. A tiny bit of stuffing is enough to hold the puffy shape.

Skirt

Attach mustard yarn at the lower bodice edge. Increase gradually to make a smooth bell silhouette. The skirt in the image is not heavily ruffled. It is full but controlled.

1. R1: hdc inc every 3rd stitch around.
2. R2: hdc around.
3. R3: hdc inc every 4th stitch around.
4. R4: hdc around.
5. R5: hdc inc every 5th stitch around.
6. R6-R9: hdc around.

Check the length. The skirt should end just above the bunny’s ankles. Add or remove a round if needed. Finish with one round of sc for a neat lower edge before attaching the floral trim.

Cream Front Ruffles

These decorative front panels are crucial. They resemble layered scalloped straps or wide ruffles that fall from the shoulder area down the front of the dress. They are cream, textured, and slightly dimensional.

Make 2.

1. Ch 18 to 22, depending on the bodice height.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across.
3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, work a scallop sequence such as 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc across the length, adjusting at the end to fit evenly.
4. Row 3: optional back support row of slip stitches along the straight edge if you want firmer shape.

Sew one ruffle on each side of the chest so they begin near the shoulder and fall vertically with a slight inward curve. Their lower ends should stop around the waist or slightly below. In the image, they are symmetrical but not rigidly flat.

Bonnet

The bonnet is close-fitting and rounded, covering the top, back, and upper sides of the head while leaving the face open. It sits low enough to meet the ears at the side. The front edge is simple without a large brim.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR with mustard yarn. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. R4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. R5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
6. R6: 4 sc, inc around. (36)
7. R7-R12: sc around. (36)

Test fit over the head. The bonnet should cup the skull gently and sit above the eyes. If needed, add one more increase round for a larger head. Fasten off with a long tail.

You may leave the bonnet as a half cap or add short side flaps by working a few rows back and forth across the side sections. In the image, the bonnet looks smooth and fitted, so keep the shaping clean and simple.

Camellia Flowers

The flower motif appears repeatedly: on the bonnet, on the skirt hem, on the bag, and in miniature on the shoes and cat hat. The most accurate look comes from making a two-layer flower with dusty pink center petals and cream outer petals.

Large Camellia for Bonnet and Bag

Make as needed. You will need 2 for the bonnet and 1 for the bag front.

Pink Center Layer

1. With dusty pink yarn, make MR.
2. Into MR, repeat 5 times: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc.
3. Pull closed and join.

Cream Outer Layer

1. Join cream behind a pink petal.
2. Repeat 5 times around: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc.
3. Fasten off, leaving a tail.

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Gently shape the petals with your fingers so they sit in soft concentric layers. The image flowers are rounded and plush-looking, not sharply pointed.

Medium Camellias for Dress Hem

Make 5.

Use the same method as the large flower but reduce each petal slightly:

• Pink layer: 5 petals with 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc.
• Cream layer: 5 petals with 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc.

Add tiny green leaves between the flowers at the hem. A simple leaf can be made with ch 5, then sl st, sc, hdc, sc back along the chain.

Small Flowers for Shoes and Cat Hat

Make tiny flowers using 4 or 5 short petals with just sc and hdc stitches. These should read as floral accents without becoming bulky.

Dress Hem Floral Placement

Sew the 5 medium camellias evenly along the lower skirt front, spacing them so they create a decorative border. The center flower should sit at the middle front. Two flowers go on each side. Add one or two tiny green leaves between neighboring flowers.

Do not place the flowers too high. In the image, they sit very close to the lower edge of the skirt and visually finish the hemline.

Bonnet Flower Placement

Sew one large camellia on each side of the bonnet front, slightly above where the ears emerge. They should frame the face like soft side decorations. The flowers are large and noticeable, so place them confidently. They are not tiny accents.

Bag

The tote bag is cream with dusty pink lower coloring and a large flower on the front. It is soft-sided and small enough to sit beside the bunny rather than hang on the shoulder.

Bag Body

1. With dusty pink, ch 9.
2. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, 6 sc, 3 sc in last, 6 sc opposite side, 2 sc in last. (18)
3. R2: inc, 6 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc. (24)
4. R3: BLO sc around. (24)
5. R4-R6: sc around in dusty pink.
6. R7-R10: switch to cream, sc around.

Flatten the piece and sew the bottom if needed, or continue in joined rounds depending on your preferred bag method. The proportions should be short and wide with a flat base.

Handles Make 2

1. Ch 18 to 22 in cream.
2. Work 1 row of sl st back or sc back for sturdiness.

Sew the handles to the inside upper edge. Attach the large camellia to the front center so it covers much of the bag face. In the image, the flower is the visual focus of the bag.

Mini Cat Companion

This little companion is styled like a tiny dressed doll. The head is slightly round with small cat ears. The face is simple, sweet, and similar in expression to the bunny.

Head

1. R1: 6 sc in MR with cream yarn. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. R4: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
5. R5-R8: sc around. (24)

Insert tiny black eyes between R6 and R7 with about 5 to 6 stitches between them.

1. R9: 2 sc, dec around. (18)
2. R10: 1 sc, dec around. (12)

Stuff firmly.

1. R11: dec around. (6)

Close and fasten off.

Cat Ears Make 2

1. R1: 4 sc in MR.
2. R2: 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc. (6)
3. R3: sc around.

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Flatten lightly and sew to the top of the head. They should peek from under the tiny hat.

Cat Body

1. With light blue, R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. R4-R6: sc around. (18)

Switch to soft green for skirt portion.

1. R7: BLO sc around. (18)
2. R8: 2 sc, inc around. (24)
3. R9-R10: sc around. (24)

Stuff lightly. Close if you prefer a one-piece body, or keep open and sew to the head.

Cat Arms Make 2

1. R1: 5 sc in MR.
2. R2-R5: sc around. (5)

Leave unstuffed or barely stuffed and sew to the upper blue body.

Cat Legs Make 2

1. R1: 6 sc in MR.
2. R2-R4: sc around. (6)

Stuff lightly and sew under the body.

Cat Tail

1. Ch 10 to 12.
2. Sl st back along the chain or work one row of sc back.

Sew to the rear lower body if desired. In the image, the tail is not a dominant feature, so keep it small and understated.

Cat Hat

The tiny hat echoes the bunny’s bonnet color palette but appears more like a little brimmed hat.

1. With mustard, R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: 1 sc, inc around. (18)
4. R4-R5: sc around. (18)
5. R6: BLO, sc around. (18)
6. R7: in FLO of R6, inc every 3rd stitch around for a subtle brim.

Add a thin green band and one tiny flower at the side front.

Small Folded Cloth Accessory

The small accessory placed near the bunny looks like a tiny folded handkerchief, napkin, or miniature cloth with a pale center and mustard border. It adds charm to the tea party theme.

1. With cream, ch 8.
2. Row 1-6: sc across. (7)
3. Change to mustard and work 1 round of sc evenly around all edges.

Optionally embroider a tiny floral sprig in the center using very small stitches in mustard or soft orange. Fold once or press flat with your fingers so it resembles the image.

Main Assembly

1. Sew the bunny head to the body.
2. Attach ears so they hang down the sides.
3. Sew arms at shoulder level.
4. Attach feet or shoe-covered feet so the bunny can sit or stand supported.
5. Fit and secure the mustard dress.
6. Add puff sleeves.
7. Sew the cream front ruffles.
8. Attach the five hem flowers and tiny leaves.
9. Sew the bonnet to the head or make it removable.
10. Attach the two large bonnet flowers.
11. Finish the shoes with straps and tiny flowers.
12. Make and place the bag, mini cat, and folded cloth accessory.

Proportion Check

• The bunny head should be the largest single part.
• The body should be narrower than the head and mostly hidden by the dress.
• The ears should fall to about chest level or a little lower.
• The skirt should flare enough to create a stable doll silhouette.
• The bonnet flowers should be bold and frame the face.
• The bag and cat should look clearly smaller than the main bunny.

Styling Notes for an Image-Accurate Look

Use tight stitches so the fabric looks smooth and neat. The image shows clean, refined amigurumi rather than fuzzy yarn. Cotton or cotton-blend yarn will help the flowers hold shape and the dress keep its silhouette.

Keep the palette muted and soft. Avoid bright lemon yellow or hot pink. The mustard should feel warm and earthy, and the pink should feel dusty and romantic. The cream should be gentle, not stark white.

The scalloped cream panels on the front are important. Without them, the dress looks too plain. Make sure they are wide enough to be noticed but not so wide that they cover the bodice entirely.

The hem flowers should be evenly spaced and aligned along the lower skirt curve. This detail is one of the easiest ways to capture the original look.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew all pieces securely and check the balance from the front before tying off final tails. Position the eyes low enough for a gentle expression. Keep the nose tiny, centered, and soft pink. The mouth should be minimal. Add only very light shaping so the face remains smooth and sweet.

Care Notes

Handle the bonnet flowers and skirt trim gently so the layered petals keep their shape. If the doll is for display, place it away from direct moisture and dust buildup. If it is for careful play, use extra-secure stitching on all small accessories.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head larger than body.
• Ears long and softly hanging.
• Mustard bonnet fits close to the head.
• Two large bonnet camellias attached symmetrically.
• Cream front ruffles sewn neatly on the bodice.
• Five camellias along the dress hem.
• Shoes finished with straps and tiny flowers.
• Bag includes one large front flower.
• Mini cat has hat, blouse, skirt, and simple face.
• Small folded cloth accessory included.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For best results, spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap. Do not twist or wring the pieces, especially the flowers and ruffles. Press gently with a towel, reshape by hand, and let everything air dry flat. Store in a dry place away from strong sunlight to help preserve stitch definition and color softness.