Jasmine Porch Bunny – Crochet

This soft amigurumi bunny set is designed as a charming collectible with a gentle spring palette, floral details, and matching accessories. It has the appeal of a handmade bunny doll, crochet bunny outfit, nursery decor piece, and heirloom-style gift that many shoppers look for when browsing artisan toy collections.

The set includes a dressed bunny, a flowered cap, shoes, a small shoulder bag, a folded pouch, a flower crown, and a tiny companion bunny. The finished look feels polished and gift-ready, like a boutique amigurumi bunny set or handmade Easter bunny doll made for display and everyday admiration.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Light worsted or DK cotton yarn in soft cream, pale sage green, white, blush pink, and a tiny amount of warm beige or light tan
• Crochet hook that gives you a firm fabric with no visible gaps
• Black safety eyes or glossy black toy eyes for the main bunny
• Small black bead eyes or tiny safety eyes for the mini bunny
• Stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Thin cardboard or plastic canvas if you want firmer bag bases and cleaner accessory shaping
• Small button for the shoulder bag flap
• Tiny buttons or beads for shoe straps if desired

Color Notes

• Main bunny head, ears, hands, legs: soft cream
• Dress bodice, sleeves, cap, shoes, bag, mini bunny hat and skirt: pale sage green
• Dress skirt, mini bunny top accents, some accessory contrast: white or very pale mint-white
• Flowers: white petals with pale yellow or cream centers
• Leaves and vines: sage green
• Nose and mouth: blush pink or dusty rose

Finished Size

The main bunny is proportioned as a standing doll with a large round head, short neck, slim torso, gently flared skirt, and medium-long drooping ears. The overall height should feel close to seven head-heights including the cap. The mini bunny is small enough to sit beside the main doll’s feet as a matching companion.

• Main bunny: approximately 10 to 12 inches tall depending on yarn and tension
• Mini bunny: approximately 4 to 5 inches tall
• Bag: small shoulder satchel sized to sit beside the doll
• Folded pouch: flatter and smaller than the satchel
• Flower crown: sized to rest in front of the doll or fit loosely around the mini bunny

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch

Design Notes

This set is worked mainly in continuous rounds unless noted otherwise. Use a stitch marker and move it at the end of every round. Keep your tension firm. The original look relies on dense, even stitches and smooth shaping, with no loose fabric and no oversized features.

The head is wide and softly flattened at the face. The ears are long, narrow, and lightly stuffed only at the upper section so they drape naturally. The dress has a fitted upper body, a visible floral yoke, and a skirt that opens into a neat bell shape with a leaf-trimmed hem.

The cap is important to the overall look. It sits low over the forehead, has a rounded crown, and includes a short front brim. The floral trim on one side is delicate rather than crowded. Keep the flowers small, with leaves tucked under and around them.

Main Bunny

Head

1. With cream, make an MR and work 6 sc.
2. Round 2: inc in each st around. 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around. 18
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. 24
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc around. 30
6. Round 6: 4 sc, inc around. 36
7. Round 7: 5 sc, inc around. 42
8. Round 8: 6 sc, inc around. 48
9. Round 9: 7 sc, inc around. 54
10. Rounds 10 through 21: sc around. 54

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Place the eyes between Rounds 12 and 13 with a wide, sweet spacing. The face in the image is calm and balanced, so do not place the eyes too high. Keep them centered with enough room for a short embroidered nose between them and slightly lower down.

1. Round 22: 7 sc, dec around. 48
2. Round 23: 6 sc, dec around. 42
3. Round 24: 5 sc, dec around. 36

Begin stuffing. Shape the cheeks gently with your fingers as you add stuffing. The face should look full but not hard. The lower face must stay softly rounded so the embroidered muzzle sits neatly at the center front.

1. Round 25: 4 sc, dec around. 30
2. Round 26: 3 sc, dec around. 24
3. Round 27: 2 sc, dec around. 18
4. Round 28: sc, dec around. 12
5. Round 29: dec around. 6

Fasten off and close. The head should be almost spherical, but with a slight softness at the face. Do not overstuff the very top, since the cap needs to sit naturally without making the crown look too tall.

Muzzle Shaping and Nose Placement

Using blush pink yarn, embroider a tiny triangular nose centered between the eyes and slightly below them. Add a short vertical line down from the nose and a very subtle mouth. Keep the embroidery fine. The expression should remain minimal and gentle.

Ears Make 2

1. With cream, make an MR and work 6 sc.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around. 18
4. Rounds 4 through 8: sc around. 18
5. Round 9: 7 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec. 16
6. Rounds 10 through 18: sc around. 16
7. Round 19: 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec. 14
8. Rounds 20 through 28: sc around. 14
9. Round 29: 5 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec. 12
10. Rounds 30 through 36: sc around. 12

Flatten the ear opening and crochet 6 sc through both sides to close, or sew it closed after fastening off. Stuff only the top third lightly. Leave the rest unstuffed so the ears hang downward close to the face, exactly like the image.

Body

The body begins narrow at the neck, expands across the chest, then continues into the lower torso. The dress will cover much of it, so focus on correct proportions. The body should support the standing form without looking bulky beneath the clothing.

1. With sage green, make an MR and work 6 sc.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around. 18
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. 24
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc around. 30
6. Rounds 6 through 9: sc around. 30
7. Round 10: 4 sc, dec around. 25
8. Rounds 11 through 13: sc around. 25
9. Round 14: 4 sc, inc around. 30
10. Rounds 15 through 19: sc around. 30

Stuff firmly as you go. The body should feel stable enough for the doll to stand when supported by the skirt and legs. Fasten off with a long tail for sewing to the head later.

Arms Make 2

1. With cream, make an MR and work 6 sc.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12
3. Rounds 3 and 4: sc around. 12
4. Change to sage green.
5. Round 5: sc around. 12
6. Round 6: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec. 10
7. Rounds 7 through 18: sc around. 10

Stuff the hand and lower arm lightly. Flatten the top and close with 5 sc through both sides. Leave a tail for sewing. The arms are medium length and hang straight from the shoulder, ending around the upper skirt area.

Legs Make 2

1. With cream, make an MR and work 6 sc.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around. 18
4. Rounds 4 through 6: sc around. 18
5. Round 7: 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 3 sc. 16
6. Round 8: sc around. 16
7. Round 9: 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec. 14
8. Rounds 10 through 22: sc around. 14

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Stuff firmly from foot to upper leg. The feet should be softly rounded, not oversized. The visible cream portion below the skirt is modest. Leave long tails for joining. Make sure both legs are equal in height and angle.

Joining Legs and Body

Sew the legs to the lower body so the bunny stands with a narrow stance. The legs should drop straight down from beneath the skirt. Check balance before securing firmly. Add extra stuffing to the top of the legs or lower body if the doll feels unstable.

Dress

Bodice Base

The dress reads as a one-piece garment with a sage upper body, white floral yoke, and pale flared skirt. You may crochet it directly onto the body or as a separate fitted garment. A directly attached dress gives the cleanest result and best matches the smooth finish in the image.

1. With sage green, work around the upper body where you want the bodice to begin.
2. Create an even round count that fits snugly without pulling.
3. Work 5 to 6 rounds of sc to form the fitted bodice.

The bodice ends just under the bust line and transitions into the decorative yoke area. Keep the stitches aligned and smooth. The upper dress should hug the body, while the skirt below opens gradually.

White Floral Yoke

Switch to white. Work one round of sc. On the next rounds, create a softly textured field for appliqué flowers. Do not make the yoke bulky. It should appear like a neat white collar section spread over the shoulders and chest, framed by the green sleeves.

1. Round 1 of yoke: sc around evenly.
2. Round 2 of yoke: sc around.
3. Round 3 of yoke: work a few evenly spaced increases only if needed for shoulder coverage.

The floral pieces will later be stitched over this yoke. Leave enough visible white background so the flowers do not merge into one solid cluster. In the photo, the flowers trail diagonally across the chest and continue onto the sleeves.

Sleeve Coverings

To create the dress sleeves, join sage green around the upper arm and work snug rounds that cover most of the arm while leaving the cream hand visible. Add a white cuff edge and later decorate the sleeve area with tiny blossoms and leaves.

1. Join sage green near the shoulder.
2. Work several rounds of sc around the arm for a smooth sleeve.
3. At the cuff, switch to white and work one round of sc and one decorative edging round.

Skirt

Join white or very pale mint-white at the waistline of the bodice. The skirt should flare neatly and stop above the ankles, leaving the shoes fully visible. The skirt in the image has even round texture and a gentle bell shape, not a ruffled or overly gathered silhouette.

1. Round 1: sc around the waist, placing regular increases to begin the flare.
2. Round 2: sc around.
3. Round 3: work evenly spaced increases.
4. Rounds 4 through 10: continue alternating plain rounds and increase rounds until the skirt reaches the desired width.
5. Final rounds: work 2 or 3 plain rounds to stabilize the hem.

Steam lightly if needed to settle the skirt shape, but do not flatten it completely. It should hold a soft dome around the legs. The lower edge is finished with leaf motifs attached as a trim rather than a simple lace edging.

Leaf Hem Trim

With sage green, make small pointed leaves and stitch them all around the hem. Each leaf should sit tip-down, overlapping slightly at the base. Space them evenly. The trim in the image forms a delicate garland around the lower edge of the skirt.

For each leaf:

1. Ch 5.
2. Starting in second ch from hook: sl st, sc, hdc, sc.
3. Work along the opposite side of the chain: sc, hdc, sc, sl st at base.

Make enough leaves to circle the skirt hem. Sew them with the base touching the edge and the leaf points facing downward.

Floral Appliqués for Main Bunny

Small Flowers

The blossoms are tiny five-petal flowers in white with soft yellow or cream centers. They appear on the cap, yoke, sleeves, and flower crown. Keep them delicate. Large flowers will overpower the doll and change the refined look.

For each flower:

1. With white, make an MR.
2. Into the ring, repeat 5 times: ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st.
3. Pull ring closed and fasten off.

For a fuller flower, make petals with hdc and dc instead of only dc. Add a tiny stitched French knot or a couple of small straight stitches in pale yellow at the center.

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Leaves and Vines

Make small leaves like the hem leaves but slightly smaller. Add short green embroidered vine lines under the flowers. Arrange them so the floral cluster looks natural. The image shows blossoms grouped in graceful sprays rather than in straight rows.

• On the cap: cluster flowers on one side near the brim and crown
• On the yoke: place flowers across the upper chest with leaves peeking underneath
• On sleeves: stitch a few blossoms near the cuffs and outer sleeves

Shoes Make 2

The shoes are soft Mary Jane style crochet shoes in sage green with cream-toned soles and a tiny strap detail. They sit neatly on the feet, with a rounded toe and a slightly taller ankle section.

1. With sage green, chain to match the width of the foot.
2. Work an oval sole around the chain for 3 rounds until it matches the foot base.
3. Work one round in BLO to define the sole edge.
4. Work 2 to 3 rounds sc upward for the shoe sides.
5. Shape the toe with a few decreases at the front over the next round or two.
6. Continue plain rounds to create the ankle height.

For the strap, chain a short strip and sew or button it at the side. Add a tiny cream or tan button detail if desired. The shoes should not be bulky. They should look polished, almost like miniature doll footwear rather than slippers.

Cap

The cap has a soft newsboy-inspired shape with a rounded crown and a short front brim. It sits low and slightly forward, covering the top of the forehead while allowing both ears to fall from underneath. This piece defines the entire character, so shape it carefully.

Cap Crown

1. With sage green, make an MR and work 6 sc.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around. 18
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. 24
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc around. 30
6. Round 6: 4 sc, inc around. 36
7. Round 7: 5 sc, inc around. 42
8. Round 8: 6 sc, inc around. 48
9. Rounds 9 through 15: sc around. 48

Try the crown on the head. It should fit with a little softness, not tightly stretched. If needed, add or remove a round to match your tension and head size.

Cap Band

1. Work 3 to 4 tighter rounds of sc around the lower edge.
2. On the final band round, decrease lightly so the cap hugs the head near the brim line.

Brim

Flatten the cap slightly at the front to identify the center front. Join yarn across roughly one third of the front edge and work back and forth rows to create a curved brim.

1. Row 1: sc across the selected front stitches.
2. Row 2: turn, skip first st, sc across, leaving last st unworked.
3. Row 3: turn and repeat.
4. Continue until the brim narrows and curves softly.
5. Work one edging round around the brim for a smooth finish.

Insert a small piece of thin plastic canvas if you want a firmer brim, but keep it subtle. The brim in the image is soft and slightly curved downward, not stiff or sharply pointed.

Cap Flowers

Sew 5 to 7 tiny white flowers on one side of the cap, clustered near the seam where the crown meets the band. Add layered sage leaves behind them. The arrangement should look airy and asymmetrical, with the flowers spilling gently upward.

Shoulder Bag

The shoulder bag is a small rectangular satchel in sage green with a contrasting lighter lower section, a flap, a button closure, and a long strap. It stands upright beside the bunny and has a clean, structured look.

Front and Back Panels

1. With pale cream or very light mint for the lower portion, chain the desired width.
2. Work rows of sc for the lower panel height.
3. Switch to sage green and continue rows to full panel height.
4. Make 2 identical panels.

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Gusset

1. Chain a narrow strip.
2. Work rows of sc to form the side-and-bottom gusset.
3. Sew the gusset between the front and back panels.

Flap

1. Chain to match the bag width.
2. Work short rows in sc.
3. Shape the lower corners with small decreases.
4. Attach to the back top edge of the bag.

Add a centered button to the front. Crochet or embroider a short loop on the flap. For the strap, make a long chain or a narrow sc cord and sew it at both sides. The bag in the image hangs softly but still looks structured.

Folded Pouch

This smaller accessory looks like a compact folded wallet or envelope pouch in cream and sage. It is flatter than the satchel and features a triangular flap detail. Keep the shape neat and crisp.

1. With cream, work a small rectangle in sc rows.
2. Add sage edging around the rectangle.
3. Fold the lower section upward to create a pouch body.
4. Fold the top corners inward slightly if desired.
5. Create a triangular flap with cream rows and edge it in sage.
6. Sew the sides and tack the flap down lightly or leave it loose for display.

A single decorative center seam or embroidered line helps imitate the folded look seen in the image. This item should remain understated and elegant.

Flower Crown

The flower crown is a circular vine with evenly spaced blossoms. It rests on the wooden surface in front of the bunny and should look delicate, not thick. Use a flexible base so it naturally forms a ring.

1. With sage green, crochet a chain long enough to make a small ring.
2. Work a return row of sl st or sc for strength.
3. Join into a circle.
4. Make 6 to 8 tiny white flowers.
5. Make small leaves.
6. Sew flowers and leaves evenly around the ring.

Keep the blossoms forward-facing and balanced. Do not crowd every space. A few visible vine sections between flowers will make it look more realistic and refined.

Mini Bunny

The mini bunny is a simplified companion version with upright ears, a tiny hat, a pale dress, and a sweet seated shape. It must clearly echo the main bunny’s colors and styling while remaining less detailed due to scale.

Mini Head

1. With cream, make an MR and work 6 sc.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around. 18
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. 24
5. Rounds 5 through 10: sc around. 24
6. Round 11: 2 sc, dec around. 18
7. Round 12: sc, dec around. 12
8. Round 13: dec around. 6

Insert tiny black eyes before closing. Embroider a very small pink nose and short mouth. Stuff moderately so the head stays round.

Mini Ears Make 2

1. With cream, make 6 sc in MR.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12
3. Rounds 3 through 7: sc around. 12
4. Round 8: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec. 10
5. Rounds 9 through 11: sc around. 10

Flatten and sew to the top of the head so they stand slightly outward and upward. These ears are shorter and perkier than the main bunny’s ears.

Mini Body

1. With cream, make an MR and work 6 sc.
2. Round 2: inc around. 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around. 18
4. Rounds 4 through 8: sc around. 18

Stuff lightly. The mini body can be a simple pear or cylinder. Add tiny arms and legs as small tubes or bobbles. Keep the seated shape compact and cute.

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Mini Outfit

Use pale mint-white for the upper chest and sage green for the skirt section. Add a small beige or blush belt line at the waist to reflect the image. The dress should be simple but clearly coordinated with the larger doll.

1. Join pale mint-white around the upper body and work a few rounds for the top.
2. Add a contrasting thin waist stripe.
3. Switch to sage green and increase slightly for the skirt.
4. Work 2 to 3 rounds for a small flared hem.

Mini Hat

The mini hat mirrors the main cap in a simplified form. Crochet a small shallow dome in sage green, add a short front brim, and sew one small white flower with leaves to the side.

Arrangement and Placement Guide

To match the visual balance of the set, keep the main bunny centered and standing tall. The satchel sits at the left side, the folded pouch lies in front of it, the flower crown rests near the center front, and the mini bunny sits at the right side facing slightly inward.

• Main bunny: centered with ears falling straight down
• Bag: on the left, strap relaxed and visible
• Pouch: flat in front-left area
• Flower crown: centered near the front edge
• Mini bunny: seated at the lower right

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the head firmly to the body with the face centered. Attach the ears beneath the cap line so they hang close to the cheeks. Sew the arms to the upper body at a slight downward angle. Add the dress details only after the body shape is fully set and balanced.

Place the nose low enough to create a calm expression. Keep the mouth tiny and straight with a soft downward stitch split. A little cheek tint can be added with pastel, but use it sparingly so the face stays clean and gentle.

Position the cap slightly forward. Arrange the cap flowers on one side only. Stitch the yoke blossoms in a natural spray across the chest and continue a smaller grouping onto each sleeve. The leaf hem should frame the skirt evenly all around.

Care Notes

• Keep the set away from prolonged direct sunlight to preserve the pale tones
• Store flat or upright in a dust-free area
• Do not hang the main doll by the ears or bag strap
• Handle floral appliqués gently when moving the doll

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head centered and firmly attached
• Ears even in length and hanging at matching angles
• Cap sits low and brim is centered
• Flowers balanced on cap, yoke, and sleeves
• Skirt flares smoothly and leaf trim is evenly spaced
• Shoes match in height and strap placement
• Bag, pouch, crown, and mini bunny all coordinate in color and scale

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean first using a soft cloth, cool water, and a tiny amount of mild soap. Dab gently rather than rubbing, especially around the embroidered face and flower centers. Reshape while damp and let dry naturally on a towel away from heat.

For deeper cleaning, hand wash only if all parts are sewn securely and colorfast. Support the doll with both hands, avoid twisting, and press out water with a towel. Re-shape the ears, cap, skirt, and accessories before drying.

To preserve the structure long term, keep the set in a breathable cotton bag or on a shelf away from moisture. Tissue can be placed inside the satchel and under the cap crown to help maintain shape during storage.