Hazelnut Maple Bunny – Crochet

This woodland-inspired bunny set is designed to look like a collectible amigurumi doll with boutique styling, soft autumn colors, and charming display details. It is perfect for anyone searching for a handmade bunny doll, amigurumi animal doll, fall nursery decor, or heirloom crochet gift with a warm storybook feel.

The full set includes the bunny, bonnet, layered dress, fluffy vest, crossbody bag, shoes, spare shoes, acorn, maple leaf, teddy bear, and tiny book. If you enjoy patterns inspired by artisan doll outfits, cottagecore toys, luxury handmade plush, or seasonal display pieces, this design offers a lovely crochet project with gift-ready appeal.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern creates a standing bunny with a rounded head, long floppy ears, short arms, straight legs, and a softly dressed body. The finished look is sweet, calm, and slightly vintage.

The proportions are important. The head is large and round, the body is smaller and hidden under clothing, and the ears fall low to the skirt line. The outfit carries much of the visual volume, so keep the doll body refined and slim.

The bunny wears a deep brown bonnet with a ruffled brim and side bows. Under the bonnet, the cream face stays fully visible.

The dress is layered in warm beige and brown, with a scalloped overskirt, darker lower ruffle, thin waistband details, small bows, and a fluffy chest panel. A tiny crossbody purse rests diagonally across the front.

The display accessories matter to the final look. They should not be oversized. The acorn, leaf, miniature teddy, tiny book, and spare shoes all help recreate the exact scene.

Skill Level

Intermediate. A confident beginner can complete this set, but the result will be best if you are already comfortable with shaping, working in the round, invisible decreases, sewing small pieces, and maintaining even tension on very small amigurumi stitches.

Finished Size

• Bunny: about 9 to 10 inches tall from feet to top of bonnet
• Teddy bear: about 4 inches tall
• Acorn: about 1.5 inches tall
• Maple leaf: about 2 inches wide
• Tiny book: about 1 inch wide
• Shoes: sized specifically for this bunny

Size will vary depending on yarn, hook, and tension. For the same compact look as the image, use a hook smaller than the yarn label suggests so the stitches stay dense and smooth.

Materials

• Light worsted or sport weight cotton yarn in cream for head, muzzle area, arms, legs, and ear interiors
• Warm beige yarn for dress sections, ears, and some accessories
• Medium brown yarn for bonnet, skirt layers, shoe details, and acorn cap
• Dark brown yarn for trim, bows, and deeper accents
• Taupe yarn for neutral blending
• Soft blue yarn for teddy sweater and hat band
• White or off-white yarn for collar and tiny accents
• Rust or maple orange yarn for leaf
• Pink or dusty rose yarn scraps for bows and blush details
• Small amount of fluffy eyelash yarn or faux fur yarn in light brown for chest vest panel
• 2 black safety eyes, 8 mm to 10 mm
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Fabric glue or sewing needle and thread for optional trims
• Thin floral wire only if you want the bag strap to sit more firmly, optional
• Small scraps of plaid ribbon or lightweight plaid fabric for the skirt flounce and bonnet side bows, optional but strongly recommended for an exact visual match
• Thin felt, cardboard, or plastic canvas scraps for shoe soles and book support, optional

Suggested Hook Sizes

• 2.25 mm for most amigurumi pieces
• 2.5 mm for clothing if your stitches run tight
• 2.0 mm for tiny accessories

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = 2 sc in same stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches

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Design Notes

• Work the bunny body in continuous rounds unless noted.
• Use a stitch marker and move it every round.
• Stuff the head firmly, the body moderately, and the limbs lightly to medium.
• The outfit should look layered but not bulky. Thin yarn gives the best result.
• The face is simple: round black eyes, a tiny triangular nose, a short vertical line, and faint cheek blush.
• The ears are long, soft, and lightly stuffed only at the base.

Color Placement for the Bunny

• Head and lower face: cream
• Ears: beige outer side, cream inner side
• Arms: upper arm beige, paw tips cream, wrist ruffle off-white
• Legs: mostly cream with brown shoes worn over the feet
• Dress base: warm beige
• Dress trims: brown and dark brown
• Bonnet: rich brown with lighter ruffle edge
• Bag: caramel or warm brown

Head

The head is nearly spherical with a very gentle flattening at the face. Keep increases smooth so the cheeks remain soft and rounded rather than angular.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: sc, inc x6. (18)
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc x6. (24)
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc x6. (30)
6. Round 6: 4 sc, inc x6. (36)
7. Round 7: 5 sc, inc x6. (42)
8. Round 8: 6 sc, inc x6. (48)
9. Rounds 9 to 17: sc around. (48)

Insert the eyes between Rounds 12 and 13 with about 8 visible stitches between them. The eyes should sit slightly low on the face so the forehead stays broad under the bonnet.

1. Round 18: 6 sc, dec x6. (42)
2. Round 19: 5 sc, dec x6. (36)
3. Round 20: 4 sc, dec x6. (30)

Stuff the head firmly now. Focus extra stuffing around the cheeks and top back of the head so the bonnet sits properly later.

1. Round 21: 3 sc, dec x6. (24)
2. Round 22: 2 sc, dec x6. (18)
3. Round 23: 1 sc, dec x6. (12)
4. Round 24: dec x6. (6)

Fasten off if making a separate head and body. Leave a long tail for sewing. If you prefer, you may stop at Round 20 and attach to a neck opening worked from the body.

Face Shaping and Embroidery

Use beige or soft pink-brown yarn for the nose. Stitch a small horizontal triangle centered between the eyes, about 2 rounds below them.

Add a short vertical line from the center of the nose downward over 2 rounds. Then make a tiny split mouth using one short stitch to each side if desired. Keep it subtle. The original look is very simple and refined.

Add faint blush using pastel powder, fabric-safe crayon, or very light pink embroidery. Place it low and soft under the eyes. Do not overdo it.

Body

The body is smaller than the head and mostly hidden by the outfit. It should be pear-shaped but modest, with a stable lower section and narrow upper torso.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: sc, inc x6. (18)
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc x6. (24)
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc x6. (30)
6. Rounds 6 to 8: sc around. (30)
7. Round 9: 3 sc, dec x6. (24)
8. Rounds 10 to 12: sc around. (24)
9. Round 13: 2 sc, dec x6. (18)
10. Rounds 14 to 15: sc around. (18)

Stuff the body moderately. It should feel firm enough to support the head, but not so full that the dress becomes stretched or wide.

1. Round 16: 1 sc, dec x6. (12)
2. Round 17: sc around. (12)

Fasten off with a long tail for sewing to the head, or leave live stitches for direct joining.

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Legs

The legs are short, straight, and simple. Most of their shape is hidden by the skirt, so neatness matters more than complicated shaping.

Make 2.

1. Round 1: With cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rounds 3 to 4: sc around. (12)
4. Round 5: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec. (10)
5. Rounds 6 to 14: sc around. (10)

Stuff lightly, especially at the foot. Flatten the top opening and sew closed. Leave a long tail for attaching to the lower body. Position the legs close together so the doll can stand with shoe support.

Arms

The arms are short, softly stuffed, and slightly tapered. The paws are cream while the upper arms are beige. A small cream wrist frill is added after the arm is finished.

Make 2.

1. Round 1: With cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: sc around. (12)
4. Round 4: 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec. (10)
5. Round 5: sc around. (10)
6. Round 6: Change to beige, sc around. (10)
7. Rounds 7 to 13: sc around. (10)

Stuff the paw area and lower arm lightly. Leave the upper section softer so the arms lie naturally at the sides.

Flatten the opening and sew closed. Leave long tails for attachment.

Wrist Ruffle

Join cream yarn at the round where the paw meets the sleeve tone. Work in the visible outer loops.

• Round: (sl st, ch 2, 2 dc in next st, sl st in next st) around to form a tiny frill.

Keep this ruffle delicate. It should just peek out below the sleeve edge.

Ears

The ears are long, narrow, and floppy with softly rounded ends. The outer side is beige and the inner side is cream. For the best finish, make two outer ear pieces and two inner ear pieces, then crochet or sew them together.

Make 2 outer ears in beige and 2 inner ears in cream.

1. Row 1: ch 3, sc in second ch from hook and next ch, turn. (2)
2. Row 2: ch 1, inc, sc, inc. (4)
3. Row 3: ch 1, sc across. (4)
4. Row 4: ch 1, inc, 2 sc, inc. (6)
5. Row 5: ch 1, sc across. (6)
6. Row 6: ch 1, inc, 4 sc, inc. (8)
7. Rows 7 to 22: ch 1, sc across. (8)
8. Row 23: ch 1, dec, 4 sc, dec. (6)
9. Row 24: ch 1, sc across. (6)
10. Row 25: ch 1, dec, 2 sc, dec. (4)
11. Row 26: ch 1, sc across. (4)

Place one beige and one cream ear piece together. Work a neat border of sc evenly around both layers, placing 3 sc at the tip. Leave the top edge open for sewing.

Very lightly stuff or add a thin slip of batting only in the lower third if needed. The ears should drape, not stand.

Collar

The collar is a small cream ruffle that sits at the neckline, visible above the fluffy vest.

1. Row 1: ch 22, starting in second ch from hook, sc across. (21)
2. Row 2: ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc) in first st, sl st in next st, repeat across to create a petal edge.

Wrap around the neck and sew ends together or tie invisibly at the back. The collar should not be wide. It should frame the face softly.

Dress Base

The dress is the key clothing layer. It should sit as a rounded bell shape, with a beige upper section, decorative bows, and layered lower edges in brown and plaid.

You may crochet the bodice separately and add the skirt, or create it as one garment worked from the neckline down. The instructions below follow a practical one-piece version.

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Bodice

1. Round 1: With beige, ch 24, join carefully to form a ring. (24)
2. Rounds 2 to 4: sc around. (24)
3. Round 5: 3 sc, inc around. (30)
4. Round 6: sc around. (30)
5. Round 7: 4 sc, inc around. (36)

Try the bodice around the bunny body before continuing. It should fit neatly, not loosely. Add or remove a few stitches if your tension differs.

Main Skirt

1. Round 8: BLO sc around. (36)
2. Round 9: 5 sc, inc around. (42)
3. Round 10: sc around. (42)
4. Round 11: 6 sc, inc around. (48)
5. Round 12: sc around. (48)
6. Round 13: 7 sc, inc around. (54)
7. Rounds 14 to 16: sc around. (54)

The dress should now flare gently. Steam lightly if needed, but do not flatten the natural curve.

Scalloped Beige Overskirt Edge

At the lower edge of the beige skirt, work this decorative round:

• sl st in next st, skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st

Repeat around to create the soft scalloped line seen above the darker lower layer.

Brown Lower Ruffle

Return to the front loops left from Round 8. Join brown yarn.

1. Round 1: inc around in FLO. (72)
2. Round 2: sc around. (72)
3. Round 3: sl st, hdc, dc, hdc, sl st into every other stitch around to create a dense lower frill.

This layer should peek out below the beige dress and add depth without becoming too stiff.

Plaid Flounce Layer

To match the image as closely as possible, add a plaid ribbon or gathered plaid fabric strip between the beige overskirt and the darker lower ruffle.

If you want an all-yarn version, crochet a long strip in beige, brown, and cream using narrow stripe changes, then weave dark brown surface lines across it to mimic plaid.

• Suggested strip: ch long enough to fit around the skirt, work 4 rows of sc, gather lightly, and sew in place.

Attach this plaid flounce so it falls between the beige scalloped edge and the dark brown lower hem, exactly as shown.

Waistbands and Front Bows

There are two noticeable waist accents. One is a darker trim closer to the lower dress, and the other is a row of small bows across the front.

Waist Trim

With dark brown yarn, surface crochet or sew a thin horizontal band around the lower third of the dress front and back.

Front Bow Accents

Make 5 small bows in dusty rose or muted pink-brown.

1. ch 6
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc across. (5)
3. Fasten off, wrap center with yarn several times, knot securely.

Sew three bows across the mid-front of the dress and one on each shoe. Add two more at the fluffy chest section if desired to match the image better.

Fluffy Chest Vest

This soft vest panel gives the outfit its cozy autumn character. It covers the upper front bodice only, leaving the sleeves and collar visible.

Use fluffy yarn and keep the piece small and slightly curved.

1. Row 1: ch 13, sc in second ch from hook and across. (12)
2. Rows 2 to 5: ch 1, sc across. (12)
3. Row 6: dec, 8 sc, dec. (10)
4. Row 7: sc across. (10)

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Fasten off. Shape the top edge slightly rounded with scissors only if your yarn allows light trimming. Sew to the upper front of the dress.

Add two small bows at the upper corners where the vest panel meets the shoulder area. This detail is visible in the image and should not be skipped.

Bonnet

The bonnet is a rounded cap that covers the top of the head, with a dramatic rippled brim and side bow accents. It sits low enough to frame the face but not hide the eyes.

Bonnet Crown

1. Round 1: With brown, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: sc, inc x6. (18)
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc x6. (24)
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc x6. (30)
6. Round 6: 4 sc, inc x6. (36)
7. Round 7: 5 sc, inc x6. (42)
8. Round 8: 6 sc, inc x6. (48)
9. Rounds 9 to 12: sc around. (48)

Test on the head. The cap should fit snugly over the crown and stop before covering the full back of the head.

Bonnet Brim

1. Round 13: BLO sc around. (48)
2. Round 14: 3 sc, inc around. (60)
3. Round 15: sc around. (60)
4. Round 16: 4 sc, inc around. (72)

Change to a lighter beige-brown or taupe edge if desired.

• Round 17: sl st in next st, 6 dc in next st, sl st in next st, repeat around to form a deep ruffle.

The brim must wave softly rather than stand rigidly. Steam lightly if necessary.

Bonnet Side Bows

Make 2 small plaid bows from ribbon or from crocheted strips in striped brown, cream, and beige. Sew one to each side of the bonnet where the brim meets the head.

If making crochet bows, use the same small bow method used for the dress and wrap with matching yarn.

Crossbody Bag

The tiny bag is warm caramel brown with a flap and tiny front accents. It hangs from the bunny’s shoulder diagonally across the dress.

Bag Body

1. Round 1: ch 7. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, continue on opposite side, sc 4, 2 sc in final ch. (14)
2. Round 2: inc, 4 sc, inc x3, 4 sc, inc x2. (20)
3. Rounds 3 to 6: sc around. (20)

Flatten lightly.

Flap

Join yarn at back top edge.

1. Row 1: sc 10, turn
2. Row 2: dec, 6 sc, dec, turn. (8)
3. Row 3: sc across. (8)
4. Row 4: dec, 4 sc, dec. (6)

Fasten off. Add two tiny cream stitch dots or faux buttons to the flap.

Strap

• ch 46 to 52 depending on your bunny size
• Work sl st back across for strength

Sew each end neatly to the bag. Position so the bag rests at the bunny’s right hip.

Shoes Worn by the Bunny

The worn shoes are rounded Mary Jane style shoes in brown with pale soles and a small strap effect. They fit tightly over the feet.

Make 2.

1. Round 1: With beige or cream sole color, ch 5. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, sc 2 on opposite side, 2 sc in last ch. (10)
2. Round 2: inc, 2 sc, inc x3, 2 sc, inc x2. (16)
3. Round 3: BLO sc around. (16)
4. Round 4: Change to brown, sc around. (16)
5. Round 5: 5 sc, dec x3, 5 sc. (13)
6. Round 6: sc around. (13)

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Create the strap by chaining 6, attaching across the top side, and sewing a small bow where the strap meets the shoe.

Slide onto the feet and tack in place if the bunny is for display.

Spare Shoes

Make one extra pair using the same method, but keep the openings slightly wider so they display nicely beside the bunny. These should look empty but still hold shape.

You can stuff the toes lightly with a tiny bit of batting or use a felt insert under the sole.

Acorn

The acorn is plump and slightly oversized compared with the leaf, but still small beside the bunny.

Acorn Nut

1. Round 1: With warm orange-brown, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: sc, inc x6. (18)
4. Rounds 4 to 6: sc around. (18)
5. Round 7: sc, dec x6. (12)
6. Stuff
7. Round 8: dec x6. (6)

Acorn Cap

1. Round 1: With taupe-brown, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: sc, inc x6. (18)
4. Round 4: BLO sc around. (18)

Add a short stem with 4 chains or a small embroidered stalk. Sew the cap onto the nut.

Maple Leaf

The leaf is flat, rust-orange, and stylized rather than botanically complex. A small decorative piece is enough.

1. ch 9
2. Starting in second ch from hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc
3. Rotate and work the opposite side with mirrored stitches
4. Add 3 small chain picots or pointed lobes at the upper sections

Fasten off with a long tail. Embroider one center vein and two side veins in a slightly darker rust shade.

Teddy Bear

The tiny teddy has a caramel head and limbs, cream muzzle, blue sweater, and a small blue cap. It should be simple and cute, sitting upright beside the bunny.

Head

1. Round 1: With tan, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: sc, inc x6. (18)
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc x6. (24)
5. Rounds 5 to 8: sc around. (24)
6. Round 9: 2 sc, dec x6. (18)
7. Round 10: sc, dec x6. (12)
8. Stuff
9. Round 11: dec x6. (6)

Add tiny black eyes and a brown embroidered nose.

Muzzle

• With cream, 6 sc in MR, then one round even.

Sew low on the face.

Ears

Make 2.

• 6 sc in MR, fold slightly, sew to head top sides.

Body and Sweater

1. Round 1: With tan, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc around. (12)
3. Round 3: sc, inc x6. (18)
4. Round 4: Change to blue, sc around. (18)
5. Rounds 5 to 7: sc around. (18)
6. Round 8: sc, dec x6. (12)
7. Stuff
8. Round 9: dec x6. (6)

Arms and Legs

Make 2 arms and 2 legs in tan.

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR
• Round 2: inc around to 12 if making legs, or keep at 6 to 8 for arms depending on your preferred scale
• Work a few rounds even, stuff lightly, close and sew

Add cream paw tips to the feet if desired.

Cap

• Round 1: With tan, 6 sc in MR
• Round 2: inc around. (12)
• Round 3: sc around. (12)
• Round 4: Change to blue, BLO sc around. (12)
• Round 5: small edging round or sl st finish

Sew lightly to the head so it tilts gently to one side.

Tiny Book

The small book is rectangular with a pale page block and muted mauve cover.

Pages

1. With cream, ch 8
2. Row 1: sc 7, turn
3. Rows 2 to 5: sc across

Cover

1. With mauve-brown, ch 10
2. Row 1: sc 9, turn
3. Rows 2 to 6: sc across

Wrap the cover around the cream block and sew in place. Add one center fold line with surface stitching.

Assembly Order

1. Sew the head to the body.
2. Attach the legs evenly at the lower body.
3. Attach the arms at the upper body, slightly below the neck line.
4. Sew the ears to the head, placed wide apart and slightly behind the face line so they fall straight down.
5. Add the embroidered face details and blush if not already finished.
6. Dress the bunny with the collar, dress, fluffy chest panel, and bonnet.
7. Add bows and waistband details.
8. Put on the shoes and attach the crossbody bag.
9. Arrange the extra accessories around the bunny for display.

Placement Tips for an Accurate Look

• The ears should hang to about the waist or slightly below.
• The bonnet brim should frame the forehead and cheeks without covering the eyes.
• The fluffy vest panel should sit high on the chest, not low on the belly.
• The plaid flounce should be clearly visible between the beige skirt and the dark lower edge.
• The bag should sit at one side, not centered.
• The teddy should be noticeably smaller than the bunny and sit upright.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew all parts securely using matching yarn and small hidden stitches. Check the head angle first. A perfectly upright head can look stiff, so allow the slightest forward tilt for a gentle expression.

Place the ears low enough to fall beside the face rather than behind the body. The face should remain clean and simple. Keep the nose tiny, the mouth short, and the blush soft. Symmetry matters more than heavy detail.

Care Notes

• Display pieces are best kept indoors and away from prolonged direct sunlight.
• Spot clean when possible.
• If using ribbon, faux fur yarn, or blush, avoid soaking the doll.
• Store the small accessories together so they do not get misplaced.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head firmly stuffed and centered
• Eyes evenly placed
• Ears attached at matching height
• Collar visible above chest panel
• Beige scalloped hem added
• Brown lower ruffle visible
• Plaid flounce attached
• Bonnet ruffle full and soft
• Bag strap crossing the body neatly
• Mini accessories completed

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Remove surface dust with a soft dry brush. For minor marks, use a barely damp cloth and blot gently rather than rubbing. Let the piece air dry completely in a shaded space.

To preserve shape, support the bonnet brim, ears, and skirt while drying. Do not machine wash, wring, or hang by the ears or bag strap. Keep the doll in a breathable storage box when not displayed for long periods.