Strawberry Polka Bunny – Crochet

This charming amigurumi bunny doll is designed as a complete display set with a red polka-dot dress, matching hat, little shoulder bag, tiny bear friend, cactus, books, and small table props. It works beautifully as a handmade nursery decor piece, a collectible crochet rabbit, or a thoughtful gift for bunny lovers.

The finished set has the polished look people search for when shopping for a crochet bunny doll, amigurumi gift, stuffed rabbit decor, or handmade baby room accessory. Every detail is written to closely match the image, with neat shaping, balanced proportions, and a sweet strawberry-red palette.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main bunny color: light beige or warm cream cotton yarn, sport or light DK weight.
• Dress, hat, shoes, bag: bright strawberry red cotton yarn in the same weight.
• Polka dots and daisy petals: white cotton yarn.
• Daisy center: yellow cotton yarn.
• Bear: medium tan and dark tan yarn, plus light blue and cream for the striped shirt.
• Cactus: medium green and dark brown yarn, plus terracotta for the pot.
• Books: green, cream, blue, lavender, and dusty rose yarn scraps.
• Strawberries: red and green yarn scraps.
• Small black safety eyes: one pair for bunny, one smaller pair for bear.
• Black embroidery thread: for noses, lashes, and shoe soles if desired.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Crochet hook: choose a size smaller than the yarn label suggests for tight stitches. A 2.25 mm to 2.75 mm hook works well.
• Tapestry needle, stitch markers, pins, small scissors.
• Two tiny black buttons for the dress front.
• Two small white buttons for the shoes.

Finished Size

The bunny measures about 10 to 12 inches tall from the bottom of the feet to the top of the head, not including the hat brim. The ears fall down to shoulder level. The bear is much smaller, about one-third of the bunny’s height. All props are sized to look proportional beside the doll.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase
• dec = invisible decrease
• sl st = slip stitch
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch

Design Notes

This set is worked with tight, even stitches. The bunny has a rounded head, a small neck, a soft pear-shaped body, slim legs, and gently curved arms. The face is simple and sweet, with wide-set eyes and a tiny stitched nose placed low on the face.

The dress is not oversized. It fits close through the chest and opens into a gentle bell skirt. The hat sits low, with a downward brim and a decorative bow on one side. The bag is small and cylindrical, hanging diagonally across the body.

The polka dots should be small and neat. Add them after the base pieces are complete so you can place them evenly. Keep them scattered rather than arranged in rows. This gives the outfit the playful strawberry look seen in the image.

General Construction Order

1. Crochet the bunny legs and join them into the body.
2. Make the head and attach it to the body.
3. Make ears and arms, then sew them in place.
4. Make the dress, shoes, hat, and bag.
5. Create the tiny bear and its hat, shirt, basket, and strawberries.
6. Make the cactus and books.
7. Add facial details, buttons, flower, dots, and final styling.

Bunny Legs

Make 2 in light beige.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6
2. Round 2: inc in each st around. 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around. 18
4. Round 4: sc around.
5. Round 5: 6 sc, 3 dec, 6 sc. 15
6. Round 6: sc around.
7. Round 7: 5 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc. 13
8. Round 8: sc around in BLO to define the sole edge.
9. Rounds 9-20: sc around. Stuff firmly at the foot and lightly through the leg shaft.

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The legs should look slender rather than chunky. Keep them straight with only a slight taper. Flatten the top opening of each leg lightly before joining so they sit well beneath the skirt.

Joining the Legs and Making the Body

Continue from the first leg. Fasten off the second leg only if you prefer separate joining. Otherwise, leave yarn attached to the second leg and connect directly.

1. Round 1: Join legs with 3 ch between them. Crochet around first leg, across the chain, around second leg, and back across the other side of the chain. Adjust total to 32 to 36 stitches depending on your leg count.
2. Round 2: sc around, placing 1 extra sc at each chain corner if needed to avoid holes.
3. Round 3: sc around.
4. Round 4: dec at each side seam, sc to end. Reduce by 2 stitches.
5. Rounds 5-7: sc around.
6. Round 8: dec at each side seam again. The body should begin narrowing slightly under the chest.
7. Rounds 9-11: sc around.
8. Round 12: work a gentle increase round, spacing 2 to 4 increases evenly around the lower belly if needed.
9. Rounds 13-15: sc around.
10. Round 16: dec evenly around to begin shaping the upper torso.
11. Rounds 17-18: sc around.

Stuff the body gradually as you work. The lower half should be firm enough to stand with support from the wide feet. The chest should stay soft and smooth, not overstuffed. The bunny in the image has a neat upright posture, so avoid a round, overly stuffed torso.

Neck

1. Round 19: dec evenly around to create a narrow neck.
2. Round 20: sc around.

The neck should be clearly smaller than the head. This helps the face look large and gentle, which is an important part of the doll’s overall style.

Head

Continue in light beige or make separately and sew on. A separate head gives more control over face placement.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6
2. Round 2: inc around. 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around. 18
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. 24
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc around. 30
6. Round 6: 4 sc, inc around. 36
7. Round 7: 5 sc, inc around. 42
8. Rounds 8-16: sc around.

Insert the bunny eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, with about 8 to 10 visible stitches between them. The eyes should sit wide on the face and slightly above the nose line. This gives the calm, childlike expression shown in the image.

1. Round 17: 5 sc, dec around. 36
2. Round 18: 4 sc, dec around. 30
3. Round 19: 3 sc, dec around. 24

Begin stuffing firmly. Shape the cheeks with your fingers as you fill. The face should be round with a very slight flattening at the front. Do not make a pointed muzzle. The nose area in the image is subtle and softly blended into the head.

1. Round 20: 2 sc, dec around. 18
2. Round 21: sc, dec around. 12
3. Round 22: dec around. 6

Fasten off, close, and leave a tail if sewing to the body separately.

Muzzle and Nose Shaping

With matching beige yarn, take a short stitch vertically down the center of the face from just below the nose point. This creates the delicate center line visible in the image. Then embroider a tiny horizontal nose in pale pink-beige thread.

• The nose should be very small and soft.
• Place it low between the eyes, not too close to them.
• Keep the expression neutral and sweet.
• If desired, add one short lash stitch at each outer eye corner.

Ears

Make 2 in light beige.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6
2. Round 2: inc around. 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around. 18
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. 24
5. Rounds 5-18: sc around.
6. Round 19: 4 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 6 sc. Reduce slightly for a softer tip.
7. Rounds 20-24: sc around.

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Do not stuff the ears. Flatten them gently. Fold the opening of each ear slightly before sewing so the top of the ear curves naturally. Attach them low on the head, starting near the hat line. They should hang down to about the upper arm area.

Arms

Make 2 in light beige.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6
2. Round 2: inc around. 12
3. Round 3: sc around.
4. Round 4: 2 dec, 8 sc. 10
5. Rounds 5-14: sc around.

Stuff only the lower half of each arm. Flatten the top opening and sew to the upper sides of the body so the arms angle down naturally. In the image, the arms rest close to the skirt and do not stick straight out.

Dress Bodice

Work in strawberry red. This dress can be made directly onto the bunny or as a removable piece. For the closest fit, making it directly on the doll gives the neatest result.

1. Foundation: Ch long enough to fit around the upper chest snugly. Join without twisting.
2. Round 1: sc evenly around.
3. Round 2: sc around.
4. Round 3: place small cap-sleeve shaping by working 2 extra stitches over each shoulder area.
5. Round 4: sc around.
6. Round 5: work one increase at center front and one at center back if needed for a smooth waist transition.

The bodice should sit close to the body and end just above the waist bow. Keep the neckline simple and round. The shoulder edge in the image is neat, slightly extended, and sleeve-like without turning into a full sleeve.

Dress Skirt

Join red yarn at the waist. The skirt flares outward in distinct horizontal rounds, creating a bell shape.

1. Round 1: inc evenly around the waistline to start the flare.
2. Round 2: sc around.
3. Round 3: increase every 5 to 6 stitches.
4. Round 4: sc around.
5. Round 5: increase every 6 to 7 stitches.
6. Round 6: sc around.
7. Round 7: increase every 7 to 8 stitches.
8. Round 8: sc around.
9. Round 9: hdc around for a slightly fuller lower edge.

The skirt should reach just above the ankles. It should stand away from the body without becoming stiff. If you want a stronger shape, line the inside with a hidden round of slightly tighter stitches near the waist or add a light understuffing pad beneath the dress while styling photos.

Polka Dots on Dress

Use white yarn and add small French-knot-like stitched dots or tiny surface crochet dots. Keep them slightly raised.

• Place dots more densely on the skirt than on the bodice.
• Avoid perfect rows.
• Leave a clear space for the front bow and bag strap.
• Keep each dot small, about the size of one stitch.

Front Bow and Buttons

The bow is centered at the waist front and is an important detail in the image.

1. For the bow, make a small rectangle in red, about 10 to 12 stitches wide and 4 to 5 rows tall.
2. Wrap matching yarn tightly around the center to form the bow shape.
3. Sew at the waistline.
4. Attach two tiny black buttons vertically above the bow on the bodice.

The buttons should be placed close together and centered. They help balance the large hat and the bright color of the dress.

Shoes

Make 2 in red with a black sole accent if desired.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6
2. Round 2: inc around. 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around. 18
4. Round 4: sc around in BLO.
5. Round 5: 5 sc, 4 dec, 5 sc. Shape the toe.
6. Round 6: sc around.
7. Round 7: create a strap by chaining across the instep and anchoring at both sides.
8. Round 8: add a tiny white button on the outer side of each strap.

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Slip the shoes onto the feet and secure with a few hidden stitches. The opening at the top should remain visible, giving the classic Mary Jane look shown in the image.

Hat Crown

Work in red.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6
2. Round 2: inc around. 12
3. Round 3: sc, inc around. 18
4. Round 4: 2 sc, inc around. 24
5. Round 5: 3 sc, inc around. 30
6. Round 6: 4 sc, inc around. 36
7. Round 7: 5 sc, inc around. 42
8. Rounds 8-12: sc around.

Test the fit on the bunny’s head. The hat should sit low and cover the top of the ears where they join the head, while leaving the face fully visible.

Hat Brim

1. Round 13: work in FLO and increase evenly around.
2. Round 14: sc around.
3. Round 15: increase every 5 stitches.
4. Round 16: hdc around.
5. Round 17: lightly loosen tension and work another increase round if you want a softer droop.

The brim should bend downward, especially at the front sides. Do not make it flat like a sunhat. This brim is modest and soft, almost bucket-hat-like.

Hat Bow and Dots

Make a small red bow and sew it to one side of the hat. Add white dots across the crown and brim, keeping them scattered. The dots on the hat should match the dress but remain slightly more spaced out.

Shoulder Bag

Work in red.

1. Base: 6 sc in MR, then increase to a small flat circle of about 12 to 14 stitches.
2. Body: work even rounds without increasing until the bag becomes a small shallow cylinder.
3. Top edge: sc around and fasten off.
4. Strap: ch a long narrow strap that can cross from one shoulder to the opposite hip.
5. Sew strap securely at both bag sides.

The bag sits at the bunny’s right hip in the image, crossing from the left shoulder. Keep it small and close to the body.

Daisy Applique for Bag

1. Make 5 tiny white petals around a yellow center.
2. Sew the flower to the lower front of the bag.

The flower should be simple and cheerful, not too large. It should decorate the bag without covering most of its front.

Tiny Bear Body and Head

Work in tan. The bear is compact, upright, and slightly chubby. It has a larger head than body, tiny rounded ears, and a sweet muzzle.

1. Legs: make 2 tiny tubes beginning with 6 sc in MR, then 4 to 5 rounds even.
2. Join legs and crochet a small body for 5 to 6 rounds, increasing slightly at the belly.
3. Narrow the neck lightly.
4. Head: begin with 6 sc in MR and increase to a small rounded head.
5. Add tiny black safety eyes and a small dark nose.
6. Decrease and close after stuffing firmly.

Make 2 tiny arms as narrow cylinders and sew them low enough to show the striped shirt clearly. Add 2 tiny semicircle ears to the upper head.

Bear Snout and Face

Create a tiny oval muzzle in a lighter tan if desired, or embroider directly. Add a dark triangular nose and one short stitched mouth line below it. The bear’s expression should be gentle and friendly, with one eye slightly narrower if you want to mimic the playful look in the image.

Bear Shirt

Use blue and cream stripes.

1. Make a narrow chest band that fits around the bear body.
2. Alternate 1 or 2 rounds of blue and cream.
3. Keep the shirt sleeveless or with very tiny cap sleeves.
4. Sew neatly at the back.

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The stripes should read clearly from a distance. The shirt ends around the bear waist and does not cover the full body.

Bear Hat

Work the hat in straw beige with a blue band.

1. Make a tiny flat circle.
2. Build a short crown with even rounds.
3. Add a small brim using one increase round.
4. Embroider or crochet a narrow blue stripe around the crown base.

The hat tilts slightly to one side in the image. Sew it at a jaunty angle rather than placing it perfectly straight.

Berry Basket and Strawberries

Make the basket in beige or light tan.

1. Basket base: 6 sc in MR, increase to a small flat circle.
2. Basket sides: work several rounds even.
3. Handle: ch a curved handle and sew to opposite sides.

For the strawberries, make 2 or 3 tiny red berry shapes with a few rounds of increasing and decreasing. Add green tops with 3 or 4 tiny points. Tuck them into the basket so the red berries remain visible above the rim.

Cactus and Pot

The cactus is a simple decorative prop with one tall center section and two side arms.

1. Center cactus: make a green tube, lightly stuffed.
2. Side arms: make 2 smaller green tubes and sew to each side of the center stem.
3. Shape them upward, not outward.

Make the pot in terracotta.

1. Base: 6 sc in MR, then increase to a flat circle.
2. Sides: work even rounds upward.
3. Top rim: work one outward round in FLO to create a slightly flared lip.
4. Add a dark brown round inside the top to suggest soil.

The pot should be squat and stable. The cactus should be short enough to sit well below the bunny’s skirt line in the finished arrangement.

Mini Books

Make 4 tiny rectangular books in stacked colors. These are simple but important for matching the tabletop scene.

1. For each book, crochet a tight rectangle in one color.
2. Fold and seam lightly around a tiny bit of stuffing or felt insert.
3. Add a contrasting edge strip if you want the look of pages.

• Top book: green
• Second book: cream or pale beige
• Third book: dusty blue
• Bottom book: muted pink or mauve

Stack them slightly unevenly for a natural display. Keep them very small so they look like props, not main accessories.

Optional Yarn Ball Prop

The red yarn ball on the table can be recreated as a tiny soft sphere wrapped with a surface strand.

1. Make a tiny red ball with 6 sc in MR and 2 increase rounds.
2. Decrease after one plain round.
3. Wrap a strand around the finished ball to imitate wound yarn.

The metal hook shown in the image is not crocheted, so use a real tiny hook for display if you want the scene to look complete.

Assembly of the Bunny Base

1. Sew the head firmly onto the neck.
2. Attach the ears symmetrically, letting them hang straight down.
3. Sew the arms to the upper body just below the shoulder line.
4. Put on the shoes and secure invisibly.
5. Dress the bunny and check the bow sits centered.

Before fixing the hat permanently, place the bag diagonally across the chest. Then position the hat low on the forehead. This order helps keep the strap visible while preventing the hat from covering the eyes.

Positioning the Accessories

The visual balance of this set matters. The bunny stands at center with the cactus on one side and the bear plus books on the other. The small props should not compete with the bunny, but they should feel coordinated and intentional.

• Bag rests at the bunny’s right side.
• Hat bow sits to one side, slightly above one ear.
• Bear stands upright with basket held near the outer side.
• Books stack beside the bear, not behind the bunny.
• Cactus sits low and wide for balance.

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Shaping Tips for Accuracy

Use your fingers often while stuffing and sewing. Smooth the head into a rounded shape. Press the ears flat. Adjust the dress so the skirt flares evenly all around. Angle the arms inward slightly. Small shaping decisions make the finished doll much closer to the reference image.

Do not overstuff the hat, bag, or dress bow. These parts should remain soft and flexible. The body and feet should be the firmest sections. The bear should be moderately stuffed so it can stand with gentle support from its feet and basket.

Color Placement Guide

• Bunny body: light beige
• Main outfit pieces: strawberry red
• Polka dots: white
• Dress buttons: black
• Shoe buttons: white
• Bag flower: white petals, yellow center
• Bear shirt: blue and cream
• Bear hat: straw beige with blue band
• Cactus: green in terracotta pot
• Books: muted mixed colors

Beginner-Friendly Tips

If you are newer to amigurumi, count every round carefully and use stitch markers at the beginning of each round. Test the fit of clothing pieces before fastening off. Sew accessories in place only after checking the full arrangement from the front.

Keep your tension consistent. Tight stitches are especially important on the face, feet, and tiny props. When making the polka dots, use the same size and spacing style throughout the outfit so the whole set looks polished and intentional.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the head to the body securely and check that it faces straight ahead. Add the nose with only a few small stitches. Stitch the subtle center line beneath the nose. Attach the ears low and let them fall naturally. Place the hat low on the head and secure the bag diagonally across the front.

Center the dress bow neatly at the waist. Confirm both black bodice buttons are aligned. Add the white shoe buttons at the outer side of each strap. Sew the daisy onto the bag front. Arrange the bear, cactus, books, and basket so the scene feels balanced and calm.

Care Notes

• Keep the doll away from heavy friction to protect the white dots and flower details.
• Display indoors, away from strong direct sun for long periods.
• If giving to a child, replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes.
• Store the set with the hat and bear props supported so shapes stay neat.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head round and centered
• Ears even in length and position
• Eyes level and wide-set
• Nose tiny and centered
• Dress flaring evenly
• Bow centered at waist
• Hat brim softly drooping
• Bag strap crossing neatly
• Bear shirt stripes visible
• Cactus, books, and basket completed

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean gently with a damp cloth and mild soap. Do not twist or scrub the stitched dots, flower, or facial embroidery. Press moisture out with a towel and reshape the doll by hand. Let every piece air dry fully on a flat surface before storing or displaying again.

For long-term preservation, keep the set in a clean, dry place. Tissue or soft cotton can be placed inside the hat and around the skirt if you want to maintain their shape. Avoid hanging the bag by the strap for storage, since this may stretch it over time.