Crochet Tutorial: The Sunflower Bear – Free Crochet Pattern

This sweet sunflower bear is a charming amigurumi project with a cottage-garden look, perfect for anyone who loves a handmade crochet doll, nursery decor, or a collectible bear plush. The finished piece has beautiful layered details that make it feel like a boutique amigurumi pattern you would happily shop for.

With a wide sunhat, striped top, petal skirt, tiny bee, watering can, and seed packet, this design creates a lovely handmade gift for birthdays, baby showers, craft fairs, or seasonal display. If you enjoy premium-style amigurumi bear patterns and cute crochet toys people often search to buy online, this project is a joyful make.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US English and worked mostly in continuous rounds unless noted otherwise.

The design recreates the bear in the image with a rounded head, small tapered muzzle, compact body, short arms, straight legs, striped sleeves, sunflower-layered skirt, brown pinafore dress, floppy sunhat, and small accessories.

The style is detailed but beginner-friendly if you already know basic amigurumi methods. Read the whole pattern before starting, especially the assembly notes, because a lot of the character comes from placement, angle, and layering.

Finished Size

Using DK or light worsted cotton yarn and a 2.5 mm to 3 mm hook, the finished bear is approximately 11 to 13 inches tall including the hat.

The body alone is smaller, but the hat adds visible height and width. If you use thicker yarn, the doll will grow larger while keeping the same proportions.

Materials

• Main bear color: light beige
• Dress and dark details: medium brown
• Sunflower yellow: golden yellow
• Leaf and watering can green: soft medium green
• Shirt stripes: white and golden yellow
• Hat: natural straw beige
• Bee detail: yellow, brown, white
• Seed packet: cream, pink, green, yellow
• Nose: dark brown
• 2.5 mm or 3 mm crochet hook
• 9 mm to 10 mm safety eyes
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch marker
• Scissors
• Optional floral wire or pipe cleaner for watering can handle and spout support
• Optional cardboard insert for the seed packet

Suggested Yarn Notes

Cotton yarn works best for this design because it keeps the hat brim, dress edges, and accessories crisp.

If you prefer plush texture, use a cotton-blend yarn for the clothing and accessories and a softer yarn for the bear itself. Keep tension fairly tight so the stuffing does not show.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• inc = 2 sc in same stitch
• dec = invisible decrease
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches

General Notes

• Mark the first stitch of every round.
• Stuff firmly but not so tightly that the fabric stretches.
• For the cleanest result, sew pieces on after pinning them first.
• The face should be centered and gentle, with slightly low-set eyes to match the image.
• The hat should sit low and slightly tilted.

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Head

Using light beige.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Round 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Round 6: (sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Round 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
8. Round 8: (sc 6, inc) x 6. (48)
9. Round 9: (sc 7, inc) x 6. (54)
10. Rounds 10-18: sc around. (54)
11. Round 19: (sc 7, dec) x 6. (48)
12. Round 20: (sc 6, dec) x 6. (42)
13. Round 21: (sc 5, dec) x 6. (36)

Insert the eyes between Rounds 14 and 15 with about 9 stitches visible between them. The eyes should sit a little lower than on a classic teddy bear to create the soft doll-like expression in the photo.

1. Round 22: (sc 4, dec) x 6. (30)
2. Stuff the head firmly, especially at the cheeks and crown.
3. Round 23: (sc 3, dec) x 6. (24)
4. Round 24: (sc 2, dec) x 6. (18)
5. Round 25: (sc 1, dec) x 6. (12)
6. Round 26: dec x 6. (6)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail if you want to sculpt slightly. Close the opening.

Muzzle

Using light beige.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Round 5: sc around. (24)
6. Round 6: (sc 2, dec) x 6. (18)
7. Round 7: sc around. (18)

Fasten off with a long tail. Lightly stuff before sewing.

The muzzle should be a soft oval dome, not large or protruding too far. Sew it centered between Rounds 14 and 20 of the head.

Nose and Mouth

Using dark brown, embroider a small rounded triangular nose at the top center of the muzzle.

Bring the embroidery slightly downward to form a short vertical line. Add two tiny mouth lines angled gently down and outward. Keep the expression subtle.

Ears

Make 2 using light beige.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Round 5: sc around. (24)

Flatten each ear. Do not stuff.

Fold the bottom slightly so the ear cups inward. Sew to the head around Rounds 7 to 10, one on each side, with a gentle outward curve. They should sit mostly hidden under the hat brim, just like the image.

Body

Using light beige.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Round 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Round 6: (sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Rounds 7-10: sc around. (36)
8. Round 11: (sc 4, dec) x 6. (30)
9. Round 12: sc around. (30)
10. Round 13: (sc 3, dec) x 6. (24)
11. Rounds 14-16: sc around. (24)

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Stuff firmly, shaping the torso slightly pear-like but still compact.

1. Round 17: (sc 2, dec) x 6. (18)
2. Round 18: sc around. (18)

Fasten off with a long tail for sewing. The finished body should look short and sturdy, because much of the visible height comes from the legs and dress.

Legs

Make 2. Start with light beige.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: sc around. (18)
5. Round 5: (sc 4, dec) x 3. (15)
6. Rounds 6-12: sc around. (15)

Stuff the foot and lower leg firmly, but keep the top inch softer for easier sewing and posing.

Fasten off on the first leg. Finish the second leg but do not cut if you want to join them, or leave both separate if you prefer sewing.

For the photo look, the legs appear narrow and straight rather than chunky. Keep them cylindrical with only a slight foot base.

Shoes

Make 2 using golden yellow and medium brown.

The sandals in the image are small, rounded, and layered over the foot.

Sole Base in Brown

1. Ch 7.
2. Round 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, working on opposite side sc 4, 2 sc in last st. (14)
3. Round 2: inc, sc 4, inc x 3, sc 4, inc x 2. (20)
4. Round 3: sc around in BLO. (20)

Upper Strap in Yellow

Attach yellow at one side of the shoe.

1. Row 1: ch 1, sc 6 across top front of sole.
2. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc 6.
3. Fasten off.

Ankle Strap

Attach yellow at one side near ankle.

1. Ch 10, sl st to opposite side to form strap.
2. Add 1 small brown stitch or knot at outer side to imitate the little buckle/button detail.

Sew each shoe neatly to the base of each leg so the beige toe still peeks out in front, matching the image.

Arms

Make 2. Start with light beige.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: (sc 1, inc) x 3. (9)
3. Round 3: sc around. (9)
4. Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x 3. (12)
5. Rounds 5-6: sc around. (12)

Change to shirt color sequence.

1. Round 7: sc around in white. (12)
2. Round 8: sc around in yellow. (12)
3. Round 9: sc around in white. (12)
4. Round 10: sc around in yellow. (12)
5. Round 11: sc around in white. (12)
6. Round 12: (sc 4, dec) x 2. (10)
7. Rounds 13-15: sc around in beige or continue beige after final stripe. (10)

Lightly stuff only the lower half. Flatten top and sew closed.

The arms in the photo angle gently downward and forward. Sew them slightly below the neck seam on each side of the body.

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Striped Shirt

The shirt is mostly suggested by the striped sleeves and a striped upper chest band visible above the pinafore.

You may either embroider the neck area with color stripes or crochet a simple chest yoke.

Simple Shirt Yoke

Using white, then yellow.

1. Ch 22.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch, sc 21.
3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc 21 in yellow.
4. Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc 21 in white.
5. Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc 21 in yellow.

Fasten off and wrap around the upper body front only, sewing the strip as a visible mock shirt across the chest and slightly to the back sides.

Keep it narrow so the brown pinafore covers most of it.

Sunflower Petal Skirt Layer

This is one of the most important details because it creates the bright sunflower border around the lower dress.

Using golden yellow.

1. Ch 36 and join carefully without twisting, or work foundation sc 36 in a ring.
2. Round 1: sc around. (36)
3. Round 2: (sl st in next st, ch 2, dc 2 in next st, tr in next st, dc 2 in next st, ch 2, sl st in next st) repeat around for 6 to 9 petals depending on spacing.

A cleaner way is to work one petal over every 4 stitches. That gives 9 petals total and matches the dense look in the photo.

If using the 4-stitch petal repeat, work this:

1. Petal repeat: sl st in first st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sl st in next st.

For a fuller petal like the image, use this better repeat over 4 stitches:

1. sl st, dc, tr, dc, sl st across 4 stitches.

Make the petals broad and slightly overlapping. Fasten off with a long tail.

This ring will be sewn to the bottom of the brown skirt so the yellow petals show below the hem.

Brown Skirt Base

Using medium brown.

1. Ch 30 and join.
2. Round 1: sc around. (30)
3. Round 2: (sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
4. Round 3: sc around. (36)
5. Round 4: (sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
6. Rounds 5-7: sc around. (42)

Fasten off.

Sew the yellow petal ring to the lower inside edge of the skirt so the petals peek out evenly all around the hem.

The photo shows the petals hanging below the brown skirt in a tidy ring. Adjust each petal before stitching permanently.

Pinafore Bodice

Using medium brown.

1. Ch 13.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch, sc 12.
3. Rows 2-5: ch 1, turn, sc 12.

Shape the top slightly:

1. Row 6: ch 1, sc 3, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 3. (10)
2. Row 7: ch 1, sc 10.

Fasten off.

This rectangle sits centered on the front chest and should look like a neat apron bib.

Pinafore Straps

Make 2 using medium brown.

1. Ch 12.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch, sc 11.

Fasten off with tails for sewing.

Sew one end of each strap to the top corners of the bib. Bring them over the shoulders and attach to the back of the skirt waistband.

The straps should be vertical and not too wide. In the photo they are narrow and visible over the striped shirt.

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Dress Waistband and Full Dress Placement

Place the brown skirt around the lower body and sew it at the waist.

Add the bib centered to the front. Sew the straps. Then stitch a narrow brown waistband or simple yarn wrap around the waist to visually separate bib and skirt.

The dress should sit high enough that the sunflower petal hem falls just above the knees.

Tiny Bee Applique

This little bee sits on the right side of the pinafore in the image and adds charm.

Using yellow and brown.

1. Round 1: 4 sc in MR in yellow. (4)
2. Round 2: inc x 4. (8)
3. Round 3: sc around in brown. (8)
4. Round 4: sc around in yellow. (8)

Fasten off, lightly stuff if desired, and close into a tiny oval.

Bee Wings

Using white.

1. Make 2 tiny wings: 4 sc in MR, fasten off.

Sew the wings to the top of the bee body. Attach the bee to the front right side of the dress.

Seed Packet

The packet hanging from the dress is small but very recognizable. Use cream yarn or crochet with embroidery details.

Base Packet

Using cream.

1. Ch 8.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch, sc 7.
3. Rows 2-10: ch 1, turn, sc 7.

Fasten off, leaving a tail.

Make a second identical panel. Sew around three sides, insert a small piece of cardboard or light stuffing, and close.

Decorative Front

• Embroider a tiny sunflower on the front using yellow, brown, and green.
• Add a simple tiny label with dark stitches to imitate printed text.
• Sew or tie the packet at the left front side of the skirt.

Keep it flat and slightly angled, just like a miniature packet tucked into the outfit.

Watering Can

This accessory hangs from the left hand and is worked in green.

Can Body

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Rounds 4-7: sc around. (18)
5. Round 8: (sc 1, dec) x 6. (12)
6. Round 9: sc around. (12)

Stuff lightly only at the base if you want it soft, or leave mostly unstuffed for a hollow look.

Top Opening Edge

Work a simple edging around the top with one round of sl st or reverse sc if desired.

Spout

1. Ch 8.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch, sc 7.
3. Fasten off.

Roll the strip diagonally into a narrow cone or tube and sew along the edge. Attach to one side of the can body so it points forward and slightly upward.

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Handle

1. Ch 16.
2. Row 1: starting in 2nd ch, sl st 15.

Sew both ends to the can body to form the arched handle.

Leave a long hanging loop if you want the can to rest naturally from the bear’s left arm, as in the image.

Sun Hat

The hat is a major feature of the design. It is wide, floppy, and slightly tilted, with a large sunflower attached to one side.

Using natural straw beige.

Hat Crown

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Round 5: (sc 3, inc) x 6. (30)
6. Round 6: (sc 4, inc) x 6. (36)
7. Round 7: (sc 5, inc) x 6. (42)
8. Round 8: (sc 6, inc) x 6. (48)
9. Rounds 9-13: sc around. (48)

Test the fit on the head. The crown should sit comfortably without squeezing the head.

Hat Brim

1. Round 14: BLO sc around. (48)
2. Round 15: (sc 7, inc) x 6. (54)
3. Round 16: sc around. (54)
4. Round 17: (sc 8, inc) x 6. (60)
5. Round 18: sc around. (60)
6. Round 19: (sc 9, inc) x 6. (66)
7. Round 20: sc around. (66)
8. Round 21: (sc 10, inc) x 6. (72)

Fasten off.

If you want a stronger curve, lightly steam or shape the brim. The brim should dip down in front and rise a little at the sunflower side.

Sunflower for Hat

Flower Center

Using brown.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Round 2: inc x 6. (12)
3. Round 3: (sc 1, inc) x 6. (18)
4. Round 4: (sc 2, inc) x 6. (24)
5. Round 5: sc around. (24)

Fasten off.

Petals

Using yellow, attach to any stitch of the flower center.

1. For each petal: ch 6, starting in 2nd ch from hook sl st, sc, hdc, dc, sl st into next base stitch.

Repeat around to make 12 petals.

The petals should be slightly thick and rounded, not thin. You can also make each petal with ch 7 if you want a larger flower like the image.

Leaves

Make 2 using green.

1. Ch 7.
2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sl st.

Sew the leaves under the flower.

Attach the sunflower to the left side of the hat brim and crown seam area. The flower should be large and slightly overlap the brim.

Eyebrows and Face Details

Using brown or a slightly darker beige, add two short embroidered curved lines above the eyes.

These lines should be small and gentle, helping create the calm sweet look in the image. Do not make them too dramatic.

Joining the Body Parts

Sew the head to the body securely. The head should sit straight, but a very slight forward tilt looks best for this design.

Sew the legs to the bottom of the body with a small gap between them. They should hang straight down.

Sew the arms at the upper sides of the body so they angle slightly inward. One arm should be positioned to support the watering can.

Outfit Layering Order

1. Sew head to body.
2. Sew legs and shoes.
3. Sew arms.
4. Add shirt yoke if using.
5. Attach skirt around waist.
6. Sew bib and straps.
7. Add sunflower petal hem.
8. Attach bee and seed packet.
9. Place hat and sew lightly in position.
10. Sew hat sunflower.
11. Add watering can.

Shaping Tips for an Accurate Look

• Head: round and slightly oversized compared with the body.
• Muzzle: small and centered, not too long.
• Body: short, compact, lightly pear-shaped.
• Legs: slim and straight, medium length.
• Arms: soft and slightly tapered, hanging low.
• Hat: broad brim with one side lifted by the flower.
• Dress: brown apron structure with yellow petal hem fully visible.

Optional Adjustments

If your bear looks taller than the photo, shorten the legs by 1 or 2 rounds.

If your head looks too small, increase the head to 60 stitches at the widest point.

If the hat brim flares too much, stop after 66 stitches. If it is too narrow, continue one more increase round to 78 stitches.

If the petal hem feels sparse, make 10 or 12 petals instead of 9, but keep them compact and layered.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Pin everything before sewing permanently. Center the muzzle carefully, then check the eyes, nose, and eyebrow balance. The sweetest result comes from tiny details done slowly.

Set the hat slightly off-center and angle the flowered side lower over one ear. Attach the watering can so it hangs naturally, not stiffly. Smooth and shape the skirt petals one last time before finishing.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from strong direct sunlight.
• Handle the hat brim and accessories gently.
• This doll is best as decor or a gentle collectible toy.
• Check sewn accessories occasionally if used by children.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Eyes placed low and evenly spaced
• Muzzle centered and lightly stuffed
• Ears mostly hidden by brim
• Striped shirt visible above bib
• Brown pinafore centered
• Yellow petal hem even all around
• Bee attached on dress front
• Seed packet secured on left side
• Watering can hanging from left arm
• Hat tilted with sunflower on the side

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a lightly damp cloth and mild soap only when needed. Avoid soaking the doll, especially because the accessories and hat shaping can shift.

To store, keep the bear in a dry place inside a breathable bag or box. Do not crush the hat brim. If needed, reshape gently by hand and let it air dry fully before display.