This elegant amigurumi bunny doll is designed as a charming crochet bunny doll pattern for makers who love heirloom toys, collectible rabbit plush designs, and handmade spring decor. The finished set includes the dressed bunny, her tea cup, a tiny garden squirrel friend, and the sweet little props shown in the picture.
With her blue floral dress, wide garden hat, rose-trimmed purse, and classic Mary Jane shoes, this design has the look of a handmade bunny gift, nursery keepsake, tea party display piece, or artisan amigurumi doll you might search for in a boutique or gift shop.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Pattern Overview
This pattern is written in US English and is worked mostly in continuous rounds unless a row is clearly marked as a row.
The bunny is made in separate parts, then dressed with a structured blue bodice, a layered skirt, floral trims, a soft hat, and accessories.
The look in the image depends on three things more than anything else:
- Tight, even stitches so the doll holds its shape.
- Firm but controlled stuffing in the head, body, and shoes.
- Careful placement of the ears, hat, skirt flowers, purse, and hands.
This is a detailed decorative amigurumi pattern. A patient beginner can make it, but the finishing steps are best suited to a confident beginner or intermediate crocheter.
Finished Size
- Main bunny doll: about 13 to 14 inches tall seated, including the hat.
- Mini squirrel helper: about 4 to 4.5 inches tall.
- Tea cup: about 1.25 inches wide.
- Cupcake: about 1.25 inches tall.
- Small acorns: about 1 inch each.
Materials
- Main yarn weight: sport or light DK cotton yarn for the clean, fine stitch look seen in the image.
- Cream: bunny head, ears, neck, arms, legs, underskirt edge, and some flowers.
- Dusty blue: hat, dress bodice, overskirt, sleeves, shoes, purse, and part of the trim.
- Pale blue: lower ruffle accents and large skirt roses.
- Blush pink: neckline rose, purse rose, hat accent rose, nose, and soft cheek tint.
- Leaf green: leaves, squirrel vest, and tiny floral accents.
- Warm brown: squirrel body, acorns, basket details, and tea surface if desired.
- Dark brown: acorn caps and squirrel hat top.
- White or very light cream: cupcake top if you want stronger contrast.
- Hook: 2.25 mm for the main doll, 2.0 mm for tiny accessories.
- Safety eyes: 10 mm for bunny, 5 mm for squirrel.
- Fiberfill stuffing.
- Tapestry needle.
- Stitch markers.
- Sewing pins or clips.
- Soft pink textile blush or pastel for cheeks.
- Optional: very thin millinery wire for the hat brim if you want a firmer shape.
Gauge
Gauge is not critical, but your stitches must be tight enough that stuffing does not show.
As a useful guide, 8 single crochet stitches and 9 rounds should measure about 1 inch when worked tightly with the recommended yarn and hook.
Abbreviations
- MR = magic ring
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- inc = 2 sc in the same stitch
- dec = invisible decrease
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- rep = repeat
- st = stitch
- sts = stitches
- FO = fasten off
Pattern Notes
- Mark the first stitch of every round.
- Stuff the head firmly, the body medium-firm, and the hands lightly.
- The dress and accessories are what make this bunny match the photo, so do not rush the finishing steps.
- For the clean look in the image, use invisible decreases whenever possible.
- The bunny is made to sit with the legs hanging down.
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Main Bunny
Legs and Shoes
Make 2. Start with dusty blue.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
- Round 2: inc in each st around. 12 sts
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. 18 sts
- Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. 24 sts
- Round 5: BLO sc around. 24 sts
- Round 6: 7 sc, dec x 5, 7 sc. 19 sts
- Round 7: 5 sc, dec x 4, 6 sc. 15 sts
- Round 8: sc around. 15 sts
- Round 9: Change to cream. BLO sc around. 15 sts
- Rounds 10 to 22: sc around for 13 rounds. 15 sts
Stuff the shoe firmly and the leg lightly. Flatten the top opening slightly so the leg hangs neatly once attached to the body.
For the Mary Jane strap, join dusty blue at the outer side of the shoe opening on Round 9.
- Ch 6.
- Skip across the front of the foot and sl st to the opposite side of the shoe opening.
- Turn and work 5 sc back along the chain.
- FO and sew the strap down neatly.
- Add a tiny cream knot stitch or sewn dot to mimic the button visible in the image.
Make the second leg the same way.
Body
Continue from the second leg. Do not FO the second leg. Place both legs so the shoe fronts face forward.
- Round 23: On the second leg, sc 15, ch 3, join to the first leg, sc 15 around the first leg, sc 3 across the other side of the chain. 36 sts
- Round 24: sc around. 36 sts
- Round 25: (5 sc, inc) x 6. 42 sts
- Rounds 26 to 29: sc around for 4 rounds. 42 sts
- Round 30: (5 sc, dec) x 6. 36 sts
- Round 31: sc around. 36 sts
- Round 32: (4 sc, dec) x 6. 30 sts
- Round 33: sc around. 30 sts
- Round 34: (3 sc, dec) x 6. 24 sts
- Round 35: sc around. 24 sts
- Round 36: BLO sc around. 24 sts
- Round 37: (2 sc, dec) x 6. 18 sts
- Round 38: sc around. 18 sts
- Round 39: (sc, dec) x 6. 12 sts
Stuff the hips firmly so the bunny can sit without collapsing. Keep the upper chest slightly softer so the head sits naturally.
FO, leaving a long tail for sewing the body to the head later.
Head
Using cream.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
- Round 2: inc in each st around. 12 sts
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. 18 sts
- Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. 24 sts
- Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. 30 sts
- Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. 36 sts
- Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6. 42 sts
- Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6. 48 sts
- Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6. 54 sts
- Rounds 10 to 20: sc around for 11 rounds. 54 sts
- Round 21: (7 sc, dec) x 6. 48 sts
- Round 22: sc around. 48 sts
- Round 23: (6 sc, dec) x 6. 42 sts
- Round 24: (5 sc, dec) x 6. 36 sts
- Round 25: (4 sc, dec) x 6. 30 sts
- Round 26: (3 sc, dec) x 6. 24 sts
- Round 27: (2 sc, dec) x 6. 18 sts
- Round 28: (sc, dec) x 6. 12 sts
- Round 29: dec x 6. 6 sts
Insert the 10 mm safety eyes between Rounds 16 and 17, spaced about 11 stitches apart. Before closing the head, stuff very firmly and shape the cheeks by hand.
The face in the image is smooth, round, and gentle, not sharply pointed. Do not overstuff the lower face.
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Ears
Make 2 using cream. These ears should be long, soft, and lightly stuffed only at the base so they hang naturally beside the face.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
- Round 2: sc around. 6 sts
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x 3. 9 sts
- Round 4: sc around. 9 sts
- Round 5: (2 sc, inc) x 3. 12 sts
- Rounds 6 to 7: sc around. 12 sts
- Round 8: (3 sc, inc) x 3. 15 sts
- Rounds 9 to 10: sc around. 15 sts
- Round 11: (4 sc, inc) x 3. 18 sts
- Rounds 12 to 28: sc around for 17 rounds. 18 sts
FO with a long tail. Flatten the top opening. Add only a touch of stuffing in the lower 4 to 5 rounds. Keep the rest unstuffed.
Arms
Make 2 using cream.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
- Round 2: (sc, inc) x 3. 9 sts
- Rounds 3 to 12: sc around for 10 rounds. 9 sts
- Round 13: sc around. 9 sts
Stuff only the hand and lower forearm. Leave the upper arm soft so it can curve inward to hold the tea cup.
Flatten the top of each arm and close with 4 sc through both layers. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Dress and Clothing Details
Puff Sleeve Covers
Make 2 using dusty blue.
- Round 1: Ch 18, join carefully, sc around. 18 sts
- Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x 6. 24 sts
- Round 3: sc around. 24 sts
- Round 4: (3 sc, inc) x 6. 30 sts
- Round 5: sc around. 30 sts
For the cream cuff ruffle, join cream to one edge of the sleeve cover.
- Work: (sl st in next st, 2 hdc in next st) around.
- This gives a soft little ruffle like the one at the end of the sleeves in the photo.
Slide each sleeve cover over an arm before sewing the arms to the body. Gather the upper edge slightly when attaching so the sleeves look puffed.
Bodice Waistband
Using dusty blue, attach yarn to the FLO loops left from Body Round 36.
- Round 1: sc around waist. 24 sts
- Round 2: sc around. 24 sts
Do not FO yet if you want to continue directly into the front bib.
Front Bib and Shoulder Straps
The image shows a neat blue bodice with a soft square neckline.
Mark the center front of the waistband. Count 6 stitches to each side of center. The bib will be worked across these 12 front stitches.
- Row 1: Attach dusty blue to the first marked front stitch, sc across 12. 12 sts
- Rows 2 to 6: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 12 sts
Now make the straps.
- Left strap: Row 7, sc in first 4 sts only. Turn. Work 5 more rows of 4 sc. FO with a sewing tail.
- Right strap: Rejoin yarn to the last 4 sts of Row 6. Work 6 rows of 4 sc. FO with a sewing tail.
Sew the straps to the back waistband so the neckline sits slightly open and graceful, matching the picture.
Add a narrow cream edging along the top of the bib and straps by working one round of sl st or very neat surface slip stitch.
Underskirt
Using cream, attach yarn to the unused loops from the waist area beneath the waistband. This is the fuller inner skirt that shows at the front and lower edge.
- Round 1: sc around. 24 sts
- Round 2: (3 sc, inc) x 6. 30 sts
- Round 3: sc around. 30 sts
- Round 4: (4 sc, inc) x 6. 36 sts
- Round 5: sc around. 36 sts
- Round 6: (5 sc, inc) x 6. 42 sts
- Round 7: sc around. 42 sts
- Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6. 48 sts
- Round 9: sc around. 48 sts
- Round 10: (7 sc, inc) x 6. 54 sts
- Round 11: sc around. 54 sts
- Round 12: (8 sc, inc) x 6. 60 sts
- Round 13: sc around. 60 sts
- Round 14: (9 sc, inc) x 6. 66 sts
- Round 15: sc around. 66 sts
- Round 16: (10 sc, inc) x 6. 72 sts
- Rounds 17 to 18: sc around. 72 sts
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Do not FO. You will edge the hem after the floral detailing is prepared.
Blue Front Flower Motifs for the Cream Skirt Panel
The lower front of the cream skirt in the image has small blue floral motifs with leaf accents. Make 5 tiny flowers.
Using blue:
- In MR work: (ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) x 5.
- Pull ring closed and FO, leaving a sewing tail.
Using green, make 10 small leaves.
- Ch 5.
- Starting in the second chain from hook: sl st, sc, hdc, sl st.
- FO.
Sew the flowers across the lower front center of the cream underskirt, spacing them evenly in a gentle curve. Add pairs of green leaves between and beneath them.
This small clustered arrangement gives the same floral garden feeling seen in the original image.
Underskirt Hem Finish
With the cream underskirt still attached:
- Edge Round 1: Work 2 sc in each stitch around the final round to create a gentle fullness.
- Edge Round 2: (Skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st) around for a soft scalloped hem.
FO and shape the hem lightly with your fingers.
Blue Overskirt
This piece is worked in rows so the cream front panel stays visible. It should wrap from one front side, around the back, to the other front side.
Using dusty blue, attach yarn to the waist so that 18 stitches are used for the overskirt and the front center remains open.
- Row 1: sc across 18. 18 sts
- Row 2: Ch 1, turn, inc, sc to last st, inc. 20 sts
- Row 3: sc across. 20 sts
- Row 4: inc, sc to last st, inc. 22 sts
- Row 5: sc across. 22 sts
- Row 6: inc, sc to last st, inc. 24 sts
- Row 7: sc across. 24 sts
- Row 8: inc, sc to last st, inc. 26 sts
- Row 9: sc across. 26 sts
- Row 10: inc, sc to last st, inc. 28 sts
- Row 11: sc across. 28 sts
- Row 12: inc, sc to last st, inc. 30 sts
- Row 13: sc across. 30 sts
- Row 14: inc, sc to last st, inc. 32 sts
- Row 15: sc across. 32 sts
- Row 16: inc, sc to last st, inc. 34 sts
- Rows 17 to 18: sc across. 34 sts
FO.
The overskirt should sit over the cream skirt and open in the center front. Adjust the width before sewing permanently if needed.
Overskirt Pale Blue and Cream Layered Ruffle
Join pale blue to the lower edge of the blue overskirt.
- Ruffle Row 1: Work 2 sc in each stitch evenly across the hem and slightly more at the corners if needed.
- Ruffle Row 2: (Skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st) across.
Now join cream just above or behind that pale blue ruffle.
- Work a second, slightly smaller scallop row using: (Skip 1 st, 3 hdc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st) across.
This double hem creates the layered dress edge visible in the image.
Surface Scroll Detail on the Overskirt
Using cream, add decorative vine-like swirls to the left and right side panels of the blue overskirt with surface slip stitch.
Make gentle curved lines beginning near the waist and flowing downward toward the large roses. Keep the lines light and balanced. The stitched swirls should feel decorative, not heavy.
Neck Rose Applique
Make 1 small blush rose for the center neckline.
- Ch 19.
- Starting in the second ch from hook: 2 sc in next 4 ch, 2 hdc in next 5 ch, 2 dc in next 6 ch, 3 dc in remaining 3 ch.
- FO, roll tightly from the narrow end, and sew the base securely.
Make 2 tiny leaves in green using the small leaf pattern. Sew the rose at the center of the neckline and place one leaf on each side.
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Large Skirt Roses
The image shows oversized crochet roses clustered along the lower skirt. Make these as follows:
Large rose pattern:
- Ch 31.
- Starting in the second chain from hook: 2 sc in next 5 ch, 2 hdc in next 8 ch, 2 dc in next 10 ch, 3 dc in last 7 ch.
- FO with a long tail.
- Roll from the narrow end to the wide end and sew the base securely.
Make:
- 2 large dusty blue roses
- 1 large pale blue rose
- 1 large cream rose
Leaf clusters: Make at least 10 medium leaves in green.
- Ch 7.
- Starting in the second chain from hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc.
- Work the opposite side of the chain with: sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc.
- FO.
Sew the roses around the lower skirt exactly to match the balanced arrangement in the photo:
- One large dusty blue rose low on the left side.
- One pale blue rose near the center front lower edge.
- One cream rose on the right side near the open overskirt edge.
- One more dusty blue rose slightly higher on the right side panel.
Add leaf clusters beneath and beside each rose.
Purse
The bunny carries a soft blue side purse with a pink rose motif. Make 1.
Using dusty blue:
- Row 1: Ch 11, sc in second ch from hook and across. 10 sts
- Rows 2 to 8: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 10 sts
- Row 9: Ch 1, turn, dec, 6 sc, dec. 8 sts
- Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 8 sts
- Row 11: Ch 1, turn, dec, 4 sc, dec. 6 sts
FO. Make a second rectangle for the back:
- Ch 11, work 8 rows of 10 sc.
Sew the purse front to the back along the sides and bottom. Lightly stuff or leave flat. Either look works.
Strap:
- Ch 24.
- Starting in second ch from hook, sl st back across for a firm strap.
- FO and sew one end to the top of the purse and the other end to the waist area so the purse hangs at the bunny’s left side.
Decorate the purse with 1 small blush rose and 2 green leaves.
Hat
The hat is a wide blue garden cloche with a soft brim, cream trim, and three roses.
Using dusty blue:
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
- Round 2: inc around. 12 sts
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. 18 sts
- Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. 24 sts
- Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. 30 sts
- Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. 36 sts
- Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6. 42 sts
- Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6. 48 sts
- Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6. 54 sts
- Round 10: (8 sc, inc) x 6. 60 sts
- Rounds 11 to 17: sc around. 60 sts
- Round 18: BLO sc around. 60 sts
- Round 19: sc around. 60 sts
- Round 20: (9 sc, inc) x 6. 66 sts
- Round 21: sc around. 66 sts
- Round 22: (10 sc, inc) x 6. 72 sts
- Rounds 23 to 25: sc around. 72 sts
FO.
If you want a firmer brim, thread very fine millinery wire through the last round before closing the yarn end. This is optional.
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Cream band: Join cream around the hat just above the brim line and work one neat round of surface slip stitch or sl st.
Hat Flowers
Make:
- 2 medium cream roses
- 1 small blush rose
- 4 to 6 green leaves
Medium rose:
- Ch 25.
- Starting in second ch from hook: 2 sc in next 4 ch, 2 hdc in next 6 ch, 2 dc in next 8 ch, 3 dc in last 6 ch.
- Roll and sew.
Sew the two cream roses on the left front side of the hat. Place the smaller blush rose slightly above and between them. Tuck leaves underneath to match the gentle flower cluster in the image.
Tea Cup
Make 1 using cream and dusty blue.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR using cream. 6 sts
- Round 2: inc around. 12 sts
- Round 3: BLO sc around. 12 sts
- Round 4: sc around. 12 sts
- Round 5: sc around. 12 sts
- Round 6: Change to dusty blue, sc around. 12 sts
- Round 7: Change back to cream, sc around. 12 sts
FO. Add a small brown felt or crocheted circle inside the opening if you want the tea surface visible.
Handle:
- Ch 5.
- Starting in second ch from hook, sl st back across.
- Sew to the side of the cup.
For the image look, sew the cup into both hands so it sits centered just above the lap.
Mini Garden Squirrel Helper
Head
Using warm brown.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
- Round 2: inc around. 12 sts
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. 18 sts
- Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. 24 sts
- Rounds 5 to 7: sc around. 24 sts
- Round 8: (2 sc, dec) x 6. 18 sts
- Round 9: (sc, dec) x 6. 12 sts
- Round 10: dec x 6. 6 sts
Insert 5 mm eyes between Rounds 5 and 6, about 5 stitches apart. Stuff firmly before closing.
Body
Using warm brown.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
- Round 2: inc around. 12 sts
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. 18 sts
- Rounds 4 to 6: sc around. 18 sts
- Round 7: (sc, dec) x 6. 12 sts
- Rounds 8 to 9: sc around. 12 sts
Stuff lightly. FO with a long tail.
Belly Patch
Using cream:
- Ch 5.
- Row 1: sc 4.
- Row 2: inc, 2 sc, inc. 6 sts
- Row 3: sc across.
- Row 4: inc, 4 sc, inc. 8 sts
FO and sew to the front of the body.
Ears
Make 2 using warm brown.
- 6 sc in MR.
- sl st to close.
- Flatten slightly and sew to the top sides of the head.
Arms
Make 2 using warm brown.
- Ch 5.
- Starting in second ch from hook, sc 4.
- FO and roll or fold slightly.
- Sew one arm raised to hold an acorn.
Legs
Make 2 using warm brown.
- 6 sc in MR.
- Round 2: sc around.
- FO and sew under the body so the squirrel stands upright.
Tail
Using warm brown.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
- Round 2: (sc, inc) x 3. 9 sts
- Rounds 3 to 8: sc around. 9 sts
- Round 9: (sc, dec) x 3, sc x 3. 6 sts
- Rounds 10 to 12: sc around. 6 sts
Stuff lightly and curve it as you sew to the back. The tail should sit upright and slightly curled.
Green Vest
Using leaf green.
- Ch 10.
- Row 1: sc 9.
- Rows 2 to 4: sc across.
- FO.
Cut the piece open visually with a center seam line or simply sew it onto the body as a small front vest panel. Leave the cream belly visible down the center if preferred.
Squirrel Head Cap
The squirrel in the image has a dark brown acorn-style cap on its head.
Using dark brown:
- 6 sc in MR.
- Round 2: inc around. 12 sts
- Round 3: sc around.
- FO and sew onto the top of the head like a little cap.
Mini Props
Acorns
Make 2.
Nut base in warm brown:
- 6 sc in MR.
- Round 2: (sc, inc) x 3. 9 sts
- Round 3: sc around.
- Stuff lightly.
Cap in dark brown:
- 6 sc in MR.
- Round 2: (sc, inc) x 3. 9 sts
- FO and sew over the nut base.
- Add a tiny stem with one short chain or embroidered stitch.
Sew one acorn into the squirrel’s hand. Keep the second for the basket.
Mini Basket
Using warm brown.
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
- Round 2: inc around. 12 sts
- Round 3: BLO sc around. 12 sts
- Rounds 4 to 5: sc around. 12 sts
Handle:
- Ch 8.
- sl st back along the chain.
- Sew both ends to opposite sides of the basket.
Place one acorn inside or beside the basket.
Cupcake
Using dusty blue or pink for the base and white or cream for the top.
Base:
- 6 sc in MR.
- Round 2: inc around. 12 sts
- Round 3: BLO sc around.
- Round 4: sc around.
Top swirl:
- Using white, 6 sc in MR.
- Round 2: inc around. 12 sts
- Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6. 18 sts
- FO and shape as a rounded frosting dome.
Add a tiny pink knot, bead substitute, or stitched nub on top for the berry detail. Sew the frosting to the base.
Assembly Order
Follow this order for the cleanest result.
- Sew the head to the body.
- Sew the ears to the head.
- Sew the arms to the sides of the upper body.
- Slide sleeve covers onto the arms and stitch them in place.
- Sew the bodice bib and straps neatly against the body.
- Attach and shape the underskirt.
- Sew the blue overskirt over it, leaving the cream front visible.
- Add the ruffles, scrolls, and floral motifs.
- Sew on the purse.
- Attach the shoes straps if not already done.
- Sew the tea cup into the hands.
- Place the hat on the head and sew it securely after final ear positioning.
- Assemble the squirrel and its props.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Head placement: Center the head carefully so the bunny looks forward when seated. The face should tilt only very slightly downward for the gentle expression in the picture.
Ear placement: Sew the ears to the head between about Rounds 8 and 10, slightly behind the eye line, then let them fall naturally down the sides of the face.
Face details: Embroider a small pink triangular nose between Rounds 20 and 21. Add a short vertical line downward and a tiny soft smile. Stitch thin black brows above the eyes with a gentle upward angle.
Cheeks: Add light blush under each eye. Keep it subtle.
Hands and cup: Sew both hands inward so they meet around the tea cup. Tack the cup to the dress as well if you want extra stability.
Hat position: Place the hat low enough to frame the face but high enough that both eyes remain fully visible.
Care Notes
Display this doll away from strong sunlight to protect the soft blue and blush shades.
If the hat brim or skirt ruffle loses shape, reshape gently with clean fingers and a light touch of steam nearby, not directly on the doll.
For best results, treat this as a decorative amigurumi piece rather than a rough-play toy.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Eyes even and centered
- Nose and mouth placed neatly
- Ears hanging at matching lengths
- Dress front open enough to show the cream floral panel
- Large roses balanced across the skirt
- Purse attached at the left side
- Tea cup secured in both hands
- Hat flowers grouped on the left front side
- Squirrel standing securely with acorn and basket nearby
- Cupcake placed beside the squirrel
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Dust the finished pieces with a soft dry brush or clean cosmetic brush.
If deeper cleaning is needed, spot clean only with cool water and a tiny amount of mild soap. Dab gently. Do not twist, wring, or soak the doll unless absolutely necessary.
Let every piece dry fully on a towel while supported in shape. Re-form the hat brim, ears, skirt, and roses before the fibers dry completely.
Store flat or upright in a breathable box. Add acid-free tissue around the hat and skirt if you plan long-term storage.
