Crochet Tutorial: Cute Snake in Overalls – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Tutorial: Cute Snake in Overalls – Free Crochet Pattern

This cute crochet snake is styled like a charming garden friend with a rounded green head, wide soft muzzle, tall neck, striped shirt, brown overalls, rolled cuffs, sandals, a flowered cap with tiny ears, a pink forked tongue, a little crossbody satchel, a striped pom-pom hat, a mini backpack, and a small potted cactus. The finished design is worked as a detailed amigurumi doll with soft shaping and carefully placed accessories.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern creates a seated crochet snake doll with a large expressive head, long narrow neck, small arms, long dangling legs, and a rounded overall body. The snake has no visible separate snake tail in the photo; instead, the character is made like a dressed doll with legs and sandals while keeping the snake identity through the long neck, green scales, broad snout, and forked tongue.

The main visual details are very important. The head is wider than the neck, the snout projects forward with two nostril bumps, the eyes sit high on white eye patches, and the hat sits low across the forehead. The overalls are warm brown with a bib front, shoulder straps, two small buttons, rolled cuffs, and tiny green leaf patches.

Finished Size

  • Finished doll height while seated: about 13 inches from top of hat to sandal sole.
  • Head width: about 4.5 inches across the widest snout area.
  • Body width: about 3.75 inches across the overalls.
  • Leg length: about 5 inches from hip to sandal.
  • Satchel size: about 1.5 inches wide.
  • Striped hat accessory: about 3.5 inches wide when laid flat.
  • Mini backpack: about 2 inches tall.
  • Potted cactus: about 2 inches tall.

Skill Level

This is an intermediate crochet pattern, but confident beginners can follow it carefully. The main stitches are single crochet, increases, decreases, half double crochet, slip stitch, and simple embroidery. The detailed shaping comes from stitch counts, color changes, and neat assembly rather than difficult stitches.

Materials

  • Worsted weight yarn in light olive green for snake skin.
  • Worsted weight yarn in darker olive green for small patches and cactus.
  • Worsted weight yarn in teal blue for shirt stripes.
  • Worsted weight yarn in cream for shirt stripes, sandals, eye patches, and flower centers.
  • Worsted weight yarn in medium brown for overalls, cap brim, satchel strap, and sandals.
  • Worsted weight yarn in taupe brown for overalls and backpack.
  • Worsted weight yarn in dark brown for cap top, mini ears, and embroidery accents.
  • Small amounts of pink yarn for tongue and flower.
  • Small amounts of yellow, mint, peach, and pale green yarn for cap flowers and leaves.
  • Two 10 mm black safety eyes or black buttons.
  • Two 8 mm wooden buttons for overall straps.
  • One 6 mm button for sandal side detail.
  • Fiberfill stuffing.
  • 3.25 mm crochet hook for firm amigurumi fabric.
  • 3.75 mm crochet hook for looser clothing accessories if needed.
  • Yarn needle.
  • Stitch markers.
  • Scissors.
  • Long pins for assembly.

Abbreviations

  • MR: magic ring.
  • ch: chain.
  • sl st: slip stitch.
  • sc: single crochet.
  • hdc: half double crochet.
  • dc: double crochet.
  • inc: 2 sc in the same stitch.
  • dec: invisible single crochet decrease.
  • BLO: back loop only.
  • FLO: front loop only.
  • st: stitch.
  • rnd: round.
  • FO: fasten off.

Gauge

Gauge is not strict, but the stitches must be tight enough that stuffing does not show. With a 3.25 mm hook and worsted yarn, 6 sc and 6 rounds should measure about 1 inch. If your fabric has gaps, use a smaller hook. If your doll becomes stiff and difficult to shape, use a slightly larger hook.

Important Construction Notes

  • Work most amigurumi pieces in continuous spiral rounds unless the pattern says otherwise.
  • Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round.
  • Stuff the head firmly, the neck very firmly, the body medium-firm, and the limbs lightly.
  • The doll is designed to sit, so the legs are sewn at the lower front of the body and hang over an edge.
  • The overalls are crocheted as part of the body color change, then the bib, straps, cuffs, and patches are added separately.
  • The shirt stripes are created by changing colors every 2 rounds around the upper body and arms.
  • The cap should sit slightly tilted and low, with the flower band across the front.

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Color Plan

The snake skin is a soft light olive green. The shirt uses teal blue, mossy blue-green, and cream stripes. The overalls are brown with slightly darker details. The cap is dark brown with a ribbed brim and tiny garden flowers. The accessories should look handmade and earthy, like the image.

Main Head

The head is broad and rounded with a soft rectangular snout. Work the head in light olive green. Stuff gradually while shaping. The widest part should sit around rounds 10 to 16, with the face slightly flattened in front when sewn and embroidered.

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
  3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
  5. Rnd 5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
  6. Rnd 6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
  7. Rnd 7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. (42)
  8. Rnd 8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. (48)
  9. Rnd 9: sc 7, inc, repeat around. (54)
  10. Rnd 10: sc 8, inc, repeat around. (60)
  11. Rnd 11-15: sc around. (60)
  12. Rnd 16: sc 18, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 18. (64)
  13. Rnd 17-18: sc around. (64)
  14. Rnd 19: sc 18, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 18. (60)
  15. Rnd 20: sc 8, dec, repeat around. (54)
  16. Rnd 21: sc 7, dec, repeat around. (48)
  17. Rnd 22: sc 6, dec, repeat around. (42)
  18. Rnd 23: sc 5, dec, repeat around. (36)
  19. Rnd 24: sc 4, dec, repeat around. (30)
  20. Rnd 25: sc 3, dec, repeat around. (24)
  21. Rnd 26: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)

Pause before closing. Add stuffing until the head is firm but still squeezable. Shape the front by pressing the lower half forward. Do not close completely if you prefer to sew the neck directly into the opening. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Wide Snout Overlay

The front snout is the most recognizable part of the doll. It is an oval pad sewn across the lower front of the head. It should project slightly forward and sit below the eyes. Use light olive green.

  1. Ch 9.
  2. Rnd 1: starting in second ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side of chain, sc 6, inc in last st. (18)
  3. Rnd 2: inc, sc 6, inc in next 3 sts, sc 6, inc in next 2 sts. (24)
  4. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, sc 7, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 7, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. (32)
  5. Rnd 4: sc around. (32)
  6. Rnd 5: sc 10, hdc 6, sc 16. (32)
  7. Rnd 6: sc around. (32)

FO with a long tail. Lightly stuff the snout only in the center. Pin it to the lower front of the head, with the top edge about 2 rounds below the eye position. Sew around the edge, adding a little stuffing before closing the final inch.

Nostril Bumps

Make 2 in light olive green. These small raised bumps sit on the front of the snout, one on each side.

  1. Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
  2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (10)
  3. Rnd 3: sc around. (10)
  4. Rnd 4: dec around. (5)

FO, leave a sewing tail, and do not overstuff. Sew the bumps to the snout between rounds 4 and 5 of the snout overlay, about 8 stitches apart. Embroider a small dark brown curved nostril line on each bump.

Eye Patches

Make 2 in cream. The eye patches are white oval pads that sit touching each other, making the doll look playful and wide-eyed.

  1. Ch 5.
  2. Rnd 1: sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side, sc 2, inc. (10)
  3. Rnd 2: inc, sc 2, inc in next 3 sts, sc 2, inc in next 2 sts. (16)
  4. Rnd 3: sc around. (16)

FO with a sewing tail. Place the two cream ovals side by side on the upper front of the head, directly above the snout. Insert or sew one black eye into each oval before attaching, positioned slightly low and inward for the same curious expression shown in the image.

Eye Shine and Eyebrow Detail

  • Use white thread to make one tiny straight stitch on each black eye for shine if using buttons.
  • Use dark brown yarn to make a small curved brow above each eye.
  • Keep the brows soft and short so the snake looks cute, not angry.
  • Use one small stitch of light green between the eyes to pull the patches slightly together.

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Long Neck

The neck is narrow, upright, and visible above the shirt collar. It must be stuffed firmly so the large head does not flop too much. Use light olive green.

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
  3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. Rnd 4-22: sc around. (18)
  5. Rnd 23: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
  6. Rnd 24-25: sc around. (24)

Stuff the neck very firmly as you go. FO with a long tail. Sew the wider top of the neck into the opening under the head. The head should tilt slightly forward, matching the relaxed seated pose in the image.

Body Base With Shirt and Overalls

The body begins at the lower torso in brown overalls, then changes to a striped shirt at the chest. The shape is rounded at the belly and narrower at the neck. Start with taupe brown for the overalls.

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
  5. Rnd 5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
  6. Rnd 6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
  7. Rnd 7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. (42)
  8. Rnd 8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. (48)
  9. Rnd 9-15: sc around in taupe brown. (48)
  10. Rnd 16: sc 10, dec, repeat around. (44)
  11. Rnd 17: sc around. (44)
  12. Rnd 18: sc 9, dec, repeat around. (40)
  13. Rnd 19: change to teal blue, sc around. (40)
  14. Rnd 20: teal blue, sc around. (40)
  15. Rnd 21: change to cream, sc around. (40)
  16. Rnd 22: cream, sc around. (40)
  17. Rnd 23: change to mossy teal, sc around. (40)
  18. Rnd 24: mossy teal, sc around. (40)
  19. Rnd 25: change to cream, sc 8, dec, repeat around. (36)
  20. Rnd 26: cream, sc around. (36)
  21. Rnd 27: change to teal blue, sc 4, dec, repeat around. (30)
  22. Rnd 28: teal blue, sc around. (30)
  23. Rnd 29: sc 3, dec, repeat around. (24)
  24. Rnd 30: sc around. (24)

Stuff the body firmly at the base and medium-firm at the shoulders. Leave the top open for attaching the neck. FO with a long tail. Sew the neck centered on top of the body, making sure the front of the face lines up with the center of the overalls bib.

Overall Bib Panel

The bib is a separate rectangular panel sewn onto the front of the brown body. Use taupe brown. It should cover the lower shirt front and rise to just below the chest stripe.

  1. Row 1: ch 15, sc in second ch from hook and across. (14)
  2. Row 2-12: ch 1, turn, sc across. (14)
  3. Row 13: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 10, dec. (12)
  4. Row 14: ch 1, turn, sc across. (12)
  5. Row 15: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 8, dec. (10)

Work one round of sc evenly around the bib, placing 2 sc in each top corner. FO with a long tail. Sew the bib to the front of the body from the lower belly up to the first striped shirt rounds.

Overall Straps

Make 2 straps in medium brown. The straps cross visually from the top of the bib over the shoulders. In the image they are narrow, raised, and fastened with two small buttons.

  1. Ch 31.
  2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across. (30)
  3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. (30)

FO and leave tails for sewing. Sew one end of each strap to the top corners of the bib. Bring the straps over the shoulders and attach them to the back upper overalls. Sew one small wooden button to each front strap where it meets the bib.

Overall Side Texture

To match the crocheted ridged look, use medium brown yarn and surface slip stitch along both side edges of the bib. Add one horizontal line across the belly by inserting the hook through the front surface only and slip stitching across 16 stitches.

Overall Leaf Patches

The image shows small green patch details on the overalls, including one on the lower bib and one on the thigh. Make 3 tiny leaves in pale green.

  1. Ch 6.
  2. Starting in second ch from hook: sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st.
  3. Ch 1, work down the opposite side: sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st.

FO with a long tail. Sew one leaf patch on the lower right bib, one on the left pant leg, and one near the satchel if desired. Use darker green yarn to make one straight vein stitch down each leaf.

Legs

Make 2. The legs are long, brown overall legs with green ankles and rolled cuffs. Start with light olive green for the snake foot and ankle.

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
  5. Rnd 5-8: sc around in light olive green. (24)
  6. Rnd 9: change to taupe brown in BLO, sc around. (24)
  7. Rnd 10-25: sc around. (24)
  8. Rnd 26: sc 10, dec, sc 10, dec. (22)
  9. Rnd 27-31: sc around. (22)
  10. Rnd 32: sc 9, dec, sc 9, dec. (20)
  11. Rnd 33-34: sc around. (20)

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Stuff the green foot and lower leg firmly. Stuff the brown pant section lightly so the legs can bend over the table edge. Flatten the top opening and sc 10 through both layers to close. FO with a long tail for sewing.

Rolled Pant Cuffs

Make 2 in taupe brown. Attach yarn to the front loop left from round 9 of each leg.

  1. Rnd 1: sc around in FLO of round 9. (24)
  2. Rnd 2: sc around. (24)
  3. Rnd 3: reverse sc around or sl st loosely around. (24)

Fold the cuff downward over the top of the green ankle. Tack it with 3 small stitches so it looks like a thick rolled hem.

Feet and Sandals

The feet are green and visible inside simple brown-and-cream sandals. The sandal sole is cream, the strap is brown, and a small side button detail sits on one sandal.

Sandal Soles

Make 2 in cream.

  1. Ch 9.
  2. Rnd 1: sc 7, 3 sc in last ch, work opposite side, sc 6, inc. (18)
  3. Rnd 2: inc, sc 6, inc in next 3 sts, sc 6, inc in next 2 sts. (24)
  4. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, sc 7, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 7, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. (32)

FO with a long tail. Sew one sole under each green foot, keeping the front rounded and visible.

Sandal Front Straps

Make 2 in medium brown.

  1. Ch 13.
  2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across. (12)
  3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. (12)

Sew each strap across the top front of the foot. Place it about 2 rounds behind the toe edge. Add a tiny button or embroidered circle on the outer side of one strap.

Sandal Back Strap

Make 2 in medium brown.

  1. Ch 18.
  2. Sl st in second ch from hook and across. (17)

Sew around the back of the heel and attach both ends to the sole edge.

Arms

Make 2. The arms have green hands and striped sleeves that match the shirt. Begin with light olive green.

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. Rnd 4-7: sc around in light olive green. (18)
  5. Rnd 8: change to teal blue, sc around. (18)
  6. Rnd 9: teal blue, sc around. (18)
  7. Rnd 10: change to cream, sc around. (18)
  8. Rnd 11: cream, sc around. (18)
  9. Rnd 12: change to mossy teal, sc around. (18)
  10. Rnd 13: mossy teal, sc around. (18)
  11. Rnd 14: change to cream, sc around. (18)
  12. Rnd 15: cream, sc around. (18)
  13. Rnd 16: change to teal blue, sc around. (18)
  14. Rnd 17-22: continue stripe pattern, changing color every 2 rounds. (18)
  15. Rnd 23: sc 1, dec, repeat around. (12)
  16. Rnd 24: sc around. (12)

Stuff the hand only. Leave the sleeve lightly filled. Flatten the top and sc 6 through both layers. FO with a long tail. Sew the arms to the upper body at rounds 27-28, angled downward so the hands rest near the hips.

Striped Shirt Collar

The shirt has a simple close neckline under the snake’s long neck. Use teal blue.

  1. Ch 25.
  2. Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and across. (24)
  3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, BLO sc across. (24)
  4. Row 3: ch 1, turn, BLO sc across. (24)

Wrap around the base of the neck where it meets the body. Sew the ends together at the back. Tack the collar to the body with several small stitches.

Forked Tongue

The tongue is pink, narrow, and forked at the end. It hangs from the center of the mouth and curves slightly to the side.

  1. Ch 16.
  2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st 10, ch 5.
  3. Sl st in second ch from hook and next 3 ch to create first fork.
  4. Sl st back into the base where fork begins.
  5. Ch 5 again.
  6. Sl st in second ch from hook and next 3 ch to create second fork.
  7. Sl st down any remaining center chain if needed.

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FO with a long starting tail. Sew the tongue to the lower middle of the snout, just under the center of the mouth. Use one small stitch at the tongue tip if you want it to curl like the photo.

Mouth Line

Use dark brown embroidery yarn. Make a shallow curved line across the bottom of the snout, starting under one nostril and ending under the other. Catch the base of the tongue in the center. Keep the curve gentle and friendly.

Cap Base

The cap is dark brown with a ribbed brim and sits like a soft garden beanie. It has little rounded ear-like bumps at the top and flowers across the front. Use dark brown.

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
  5. Rnd 5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
  6. Rnd 6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
  7. Rnd 7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. (42)
  8. Rnd 8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. (48)
  9. Rnd 9-12: sc around. (48)
  10. Rnd 13: BLO sc around. (48)
  11. Rnd 14-16: sc around. (48)

FO and weave in the end. The cap should fit over the top of the head and rest above the eyes. Do not stuff it.

Ribbed Cap Brim

Attach medium brown yarn to the front loop left from round 13 of the cap.

  1. Rnd 1: sc around in the front loops. (48)
  2. Rnd 2: alternate front post hdc and back post hdc around, or work BLO sc if preferred. (48)
  3. Rnd 3: sl st around loosely. (48)

Fold the brim slightly upward in front. Tack it at both sides so it frames the flower decorations.

Small Rounded Cap Ears

Make 2 in dark brown. These are decorative bumps seen on top of the cap.

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. Rnd 4-5: sc around. (18)
  5. Rnd 6: sc 1, dec, repeat around. (12)

Stuff lightly. FO with a long tail. Sew one bump to each side of the cap top, about 8 rounds apart. Angle them outward slightly.

Cap Flowers

Make five small flowers in cream, pink, peach, yellow, and pale lavender. Use small amounts of yarn and a 3.25 mm hook.

  1. Make a MR.
  2. Work: ch 2, 2 hdc into ring, ch 2, sl st into ring.
  3. Repeat the petal sequence 5 times total.
  4. Pull the ring closed.

Use a contrasting center color and sew one small stitch or French knot in the middle of each flower. Sew the flowers across the front brim from left to right, with one flower slightly higher than the others for a natural garden look.

Cap Leaves

Make 5 or 6 leaves in pale green and mint green.

  1. Ch 5.
  2. Sl st in second ch from hook, sc, hdc, sl st.

Sew the leaves around the flowers. Place two leaves near the right side of the cap and one leaf peeking out near the left side, matching the leafy handmade look in the image.

Crossbody Satchel Strap

The crossbody strap runs diagonally from one shoulder to the opposite hip. Use medium brown. It should look like a rope strap.

  1. Ch 70.
  2. Row 1: sl st in second ch from hook and across. (69)

For a thicker strap, make a second identical chain and twist the two together before sewing. Place the strap over the doll’s right shoulder, across the bib, and down to the left hip. Sew it discreetly at the shoulder and hip.

Small Satchel Bag

The satchel is a tiny brown pouch hanging near the doll’s side. Use medium brown.

  1. Rnd 1: ch 8.
  2. Rnd 2: sc 6, 3 sc in last ch, work opposite side, sc 5, inc. (16)
  3. Rnd 3: sc around. (16)
  4. Rnd 4: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (20)
  5. Rnd 5-9: sc around. (20)
  6. Rnd 10: sc 3, dec, repeat around. (16)
  7. Rnd 11: sc around. (16)

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Flatten the top slightly. FO. For the flap, attach yarn at the back top edge and work 8 sc across. Row 2-4: ch 1, turn, sc 8. FO and fold flap forward. Sew a small green stitch at the flap corner like the tiny accent in the photo.

Striped Pom-Pom Hat Accessory

The separate hat sits beside the doll. It is striped in teal, cream, and light green with a fluffy pom-pom. Start at the top with light green.

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
  5. Rnd 5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
  6. Rnd 6: change to teal, sc around. (30)
  7. Rnd 7: teal, sc around. (30)
  8. Rnd 8: change to cream, sc around. (30)
  9. Rnd 9: cream, sc around. (30)
  10. Rnd 10: change to light green, sc around. (30)
  11. Rnd 11: light green, sc around. (30)
  12. Rnd 12: change to teal, sc around. (30)
  13. Rnd 13: teal, sc around. (30)
  14. Rnd 14: change to cream, sc around. (30)
  15. Rnd 15: cream, sc around. (30)
  16. Rnd 16-19: BLO sc around in alternating teal and light green. (30)

FO and weave in ends. Fold the brim upward. Make a pom-pom with teal, cream, and green yarn strands. Trim it to about 1.25 inches wide and sew it firmly to the top of the hat.

Mini Backpack

The little backpack sits next to the doll. It is beige and taupe with green straps and a rounded flap. Use taupe brown for the body.

  1. Ch 9.
  2. Rnd 1: sc 7, 3 sc in last ch, work opposite side, sc 6, inc. (18)
  3. Rnd 2: inc, sc 6, inc in next 3 sts, sc 6, inc in next 2 sts. (24)
  4. Rnd 3-9: sc around. (24)
  5. Rnd 10: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)
  6. Rnd 11: sc around. (18)

Flatten the top and sew closed. For the front pocket, use light beige. Ch 7, sc 6 across for 5 rows. Sew to the lower front. For the flap, ch 9 and sc 8 across for 4 rows, then sew it over the pocket. Embroider a small peach smile curve on the flap.

Backpack Straps and Handle

  • For each strap, ch 18 in pale green and sl st back across. Make 2.
  • Sew the straps to the back of the backpack in two vertical loops.
  • For the top handle, ch 10 in taupe brown and sl st back across.
  • Sew the handle in a small arch at the top.

Potted Cactus

The cactus is small and simple, sitting in an orange-brown pot. It adds the garden-table feeling shown in the image.

Pot

Use burnt orange or terracotta yarn.

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. Rnd 4: BLO sc around. (18)
  5. Rnd 5: sc around. (18)
  6. Rnd 6: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
  7. Rnd 7-9: sc around. (24)
  8. Rnd 10: BLO sc around. (24)
  9. Rnd 11: sl st around loosely. (24)

Stuff lightly. Add a dark brown flat circle inside the pot as soil.

Soil Circle

Use dark brown.

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
  3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
  4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)

Sew the soil circle into the top opening of the pot.

Cactus Body

Use medium green.

  1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. Rnd 2: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (9)
  3. Rnd 3-10: sc around. (9)
  4. Rnd 11: sc 1, dec, repeat around. (6)

Stuff lightly and close. Sew upright into the soil. Use darker green thread to embroider 4 vertical lines from top to bottom.

Cactus Arms

Make 2 small arms in medium green.

  1. Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
  2. Rnd 2-5: sc around. (5)

Do not stuff heavily. Sew one arm to each side of the cactus body, curving upward.

Optional Weighted Sitting Support

If you want the snake to sit easily on a shelf or table edge, place a small fabric pouch of plastic pellets or clean dry rice inside the lower body before closing the top. Keep the weight centered low in the belly. Do not use loose pellets directly inside the crochet body.

Assembly Order

  1. Sew the snout overlay to the lower front of the head.
  2. Sew the nostril bumps to the snout and embroider nostril lines.
  3. Attach the cream eye patches and secure the black eyes.
  4. Embroider the brows, mouth, and any small facial shaping stitches.
  5. Sew the long neck under the head.
  6. Sew the body to the lower end of the neck.
  7. Sew the bib panel to the front of the overalls.
  8. Attach the overall straps and buttons.
  9. Sew the legs to the lower front of the body.
  10. Add rolled cuffs, sandal soles, and sandal straps.
  11. Sew the arms to the shoulders.
  12. Add the shirt collar around the base of the neck.
  13. Place the cap on the head and sew it lightly around the back edge.
  14. Sew flowers, leaves, and cap ears in place.
  15. Add the crossbody strap and satchel.
  16. Make and place the striped hat, backpack, and potted cactus accessories.

Detailed Body Positioning

For the seated pose, sew the legs at the front lower body between rounds 5 and 8 of the overalls. Keep about 4 stitches of space between the legs. The legs should angle downward, not straight forward. This makes the doll look as though it is sitting on a wooden table.

Sew the arms slightly below the shoulder line. The right arm can rest closer to the satchel strap, while the left arm hangs beside the body. Use two passes of yarn through the shoulder joint so the arms stay secure but still look soft.

The neck should rise from the center of the shirt collar. If the head tips backward, add a few hidden stitches from the back of the head to the back collar. If it tips too far forward, add firm stuffing to the lower front of the neck before sewing the final seam.

Facial Shaping

Thread a long yarn needle with light olive green yarn. Insert at the bottom of the head, come out at the inner corner of the first eye patch, cross behind the eye, and go back down. Repeat on the second eye. Pull gently to create a slight dip between the eyes.

For the snout, make two small shaping stitches from the lower center of the head to each nostril bump. Pull lightly. This gives the front face a soft rounded expression and helps the nostrils sit raised like the image.

Flower Placement Guide

  • Place the largest cream flower near the front left side of the cap brim.
  • Place the pink flower near the center front.
  • Place the peach flower slightly to the left side.
  • Place the pale yellow flower between the cream and pink flowers.
  • Add mint leaves between flowers to fill empty spaces.
  • Keep all flowers low on the brim so the top cap bumps remain visible.

Stripe Matching Tips

When sewing arms to the shirt, match a teal stripe on the sleeve near a teal stripe on the body if possible. Exact alignment is not required, but keeping the same color family near the shoulder makes the doll look professionally planned.

For smoother stripes, finish the last stitch before a color change by pulling through the final two loops with the new color. Carry the unused color inside the work for only one round. For wider gaps, cut and weave the ends inside the body.

Button Safety Note

If the finished doll is for a small child, replace buttons and safety eyes with embroidery. Make the eyes using black yarn circles and stitch the overall buttons as small tan embroidered circles. Sew all accessories very firmly, especially the satchel, cap flowers, and sandal decorations.

Beginner-Friendly Stitch Help

  • Invisible decrease: insert hook through the front loop of the next stitch, then through the front loop of the following stitch, yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, and finish the single crochet.
  • Clean color change: begin the last stitch in the old color, then finish the final yarn over with the new color.
  • Surface slip stitch: insert hook through the front of the finished crochet fabric, pull up a loop, and slip stitch along the surface without tightening too much.
  • Firm stuffing: add small pieces of fiberfill at a time instead of one large clump.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

After all pieces are attached, check the doll from the front, sides, and top. The head should be centered above the bib, the snout should be level, and the cap should sit low but not cover the eyes. Add extra hidden stitches wherever an accessory moves too much.

Brush the flower petals gently with your fingers to open them. Adjust the forked tongue so one fork curves slightly outward. Add a tiny stitch of pink yarn near the mouth if the tongue needs to stay in place.

  • Make sure both nostrils are even.
  • Check that both eye patches touch or nearly touch.
  • Confirm the overall straps cross the shoulders neatly.
  • Confirm the satchel hangs diagonally at the hip.
  • Shape the legs so they sit naturally over an edge.

Care Notes

Spot clean the finished snake with a damp cloth and mild soap. Do not soak the doll if you used wooden buttons, pellets, or glued decorations. Let it dry flat in a shaded, airy place. Reshape the head, snout, and cap while damp if needed.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • The head is firmly stuffed and slightly wider than the body.
  • The long neck is stable and centered.
  • The snout is raised and rounded.
  • The pink tongue is forked and attached under the mouth.
  • The overalls have a bib, straps, buttons, cuffs, and green patches.
  • The cap has flowers, leaves, and two small rounded bumps.
  • The sandals have soles, front straps, back straps, and side detail.
  • The striped hat, mini backpack, and cactus are completed as separate props.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the crochet snake away from direct sunlight to protect the soft green, teal, and brown colors. Keep the doll in a dry place, especially if you added a weighted pouch. Avoid hanging the doll by the neck or strap because this can stretch the stitches over time.

To freshen the doll, use a lint roller or soft brush. For deeper cleaning, lightly dampen only the stained area, press with a towel, and allow it to air dry completely. Refluff the pom-pom and straighten the cap flowers after drying.

If the doll will be displayed for a long time, support the seated body with the legs hanging naturally. Place the small backpack, cactus, and striped hat beside it to recreate the cozy garden-table scene from the image.

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