Crochet Tutorial: Cute Green Dragon Amigurumi in Yellow Overalls – Free Crochet Pattern

This cheerful crochet dragon is worked in soft moss green with a rounded head, chubby muzzle, small cream wings, tiny horn details, and a sweet yellow overall dress covered in blue flower dots. The finished scene includes a daisy flower crown with ladybugs, blue sandals, a tiny shoulder bag with daisies, a yellow garden hat, a small watering can, and a little bee companion for a complete spring garden look.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

• Main dragon: about 9.5 inches tall from top of flower crown to feet when using sport weight yarn and a 2.25 mm hook.
• Head width: about 3.5 inches across the cheeks.
• Overall dress width: about 4.25 inches across the skirt hem.
• Bag: about 2 inches wide, not including strap.
• Hat: about 3.5 inches across the brim.
• Bee: about 1.25 inches long.

Skill Level

Intermediate beginner. The dragon uses simple amigurumi shaping, color changes, small appliques, and careful sewing. Beginners can make it successfully by using stitch markers, counting every round, and pinning all pieces before final assembly.

Materials

• Sport weight cotton or cotton blend yarn in moss green for the dragon body.
• Sport weight yarn in lemon yellow for the overall dress and hat.
• Sport weight yarn in cream for wings, horn, tail tip, and sandal soles.
• Sport weight yarn in sky blue for bag, sandal straps, bow, and dress flower dots.
• Sport weight yarn in white for daisies, claws, and flower petals.
• Small amounts of yellow, pink, black, red, and dark green yarn for flower centers, rose, eyes, ladybugs, and leaves.
• 2.25 mm crochet hook for the main dragon.
• 2.00 mm crochet hook for flowers, ladybugs, bee, and fine details.
• 8 mm black safety eyes or glossy black sew-on eyes.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Embroidery needle.
• Black embroidery thread for eyelashes and facial lines.
• White embroidery thread for eye shine and toe claws.
• Optional blush powder or pink yarn for cheek blush.

Abbreviations Used

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• tr: treble crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st: stitch
• sts: stitches
• R: round or row
• FO: fasten off

Gauge and Crochet Texture

Work tightly enough that stuffing does not show through. The image shows dense, even amigurumi stitches with a soft, rounded surface. For the closest look, use a hook smaller than the yarn label suggests.

• Gauge target: 7 sc and 8 rounds equal about 1 inch.
• Body fabric: firm but still squeezable.
• Dress fabric: slightly less stuffed and more flexible so the skirt flares naturally.
• Small details: use tighter tension and smaller hook to keep flowers crisp.

Important Construction Notes

The dragon is made from separate amigurumi pieces and sewn together. The head is large and rounded with soft cheeks. The body is smaller and hidden under yellow overalls. Arms sit low at the shoulder edge, legs angle outward, wings are placed behind the straps, and the tail points to the right side when the dragon is lying down.

Most rounds are worked in continuous spirals. Do not join unless the pattern says to join. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round. Stuff gradually as you work, especially in the head, body, arms, and legs.

Color Guide

• Dragon skin: muted moss green.
• Overalls: warm lemon yellow.
• Dress flower dots: sky blue with small white or pale center highlights.
• Wings and horn: soft cream.
• Sandals and bag: sky blue with cream soles.
• Flowers: white daisies with yellow centers, one pink flower at the side.
• Ladybugs: red shells, black heads, black spots.
• Bee: yellow and black striped body, white wings.

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Main Head

Use moss green yarn and 2.25 mm hook. The head is the most important shape. It should be round, slightly wider at the cheek line, and softly flattened at the face front.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. (42)
8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. (48)
9. R9: sc 7, inc, repeat around. (54)
10. R10: sc 8, inc, repeat around. (60)
11. R11-R19: sc in each st around. (60)
12. R20: sc 13, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 20, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 15. (64)
13. R21-R22: sc in each st around. (64)
14. R23: sc 14, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 22, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 14. (60)
15. R24: sc 8, dec, repeat around. (54)
16. R25: sc 7, dec, repeat around. (48)

Insert safety eyes between R17 and R18, about 11 stitches apart. Place them slightly low on the face so the forehead remains large and sweet. The eyes in the image are glossy and round, so add white embroidered highlights later.

1. R26: sc 6, dec, repeat around. (42)
2. R27: sc 5, dec, repeat around. (36)
3. R28: sc 4, dec, repeat around. (30)
4. R29: sc 3, dec, repeat around. (24)
5. Stuff the head firmly, shaping the cheeks with your fingers.
6. R30: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)
7. R31: sc 1, dec, repeat around. (12)
8. R32: dec around. (6)

FO, leaving a tail. Close the opening through the front loops of the last 6 stitches. Weave in the end. Gently press the face front so the head looks softly rounded rather than perfectly spherical.

Soft Muzzle and Cheek Shaping

The dragon in the image has a subtle snout and sweet cheek dimples rather than a separate large muzzle. Use the same green yarn so the shaping stays soft.

Small Snout Pad

1. R1: With moss green, ch 6.
2. R2: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, work along other side of chain, sc 3, inc in last ch. (12)
3. R3: inc, sc 3, inc in next 3 sts, sc 3, inc in next 2 sts. (18)
4. R4: sc 1, inc, sc 4, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 4, sc 1, inc, sc 1. (22)
5. R5: sc in each st around. (22)

FO with a long tail. Lightly stuff the pad. Sew it between R18 and R24 of the head, centered below the eyes. Keep the top edge very flat and the lower edge slightly fuller.

Cheek Dimples

1. Thread moss green yarn through a needle.
2. Insert from the bottom of the head and come out beside the left eye, one round below the eye.
3. Go back in at the lower side of the snout pad.
4. Pull gently to create a cheek curve.
5. Repeat on the right side.
6. Knot securely under the head where it will be hidden by the neck.

Facial Embroidery

• Use black embroidery thread to stitch two tiny sleepy eyebrow lines above the eyes. Each line should be about 3 stitches long and angled gently downward toward the center.
• Use black thread to stitch two tiny nostril lines on the snout, one on each side, between R3 and R4 of the snout pad.
• Add white curved highlights on the safety eyes with embroidery thread if desired.
• Optional: add two small blush stitches on the cheeks using pale pink yarn.

Body

The body is smaller than the head and mostly covered by the overalls. Use moss green. Stuff firmly at the base and moderately near the neck so the head can sit naturally.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
7. R7-R12: sc in each st around. (36)
8. R13: sc 10, dec, repeat 3 times. (33)
9. R14-R15: sc in each st around. (33)
10. R16: sc 9, dec, repeat 3 times. (30)
11. R17: sc in each st around. (30)
12. R18: sc 3, dec, repeat around. (24)
13. R19: sc in each st around. (24)
14. R20: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)
15. R21: sc in each st around. (18)

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FO with a long sewing tail. Stuff the body, keeping the bottom rounded. Sew the body to the underside of the head later after the overalls are fitted.

Legs

Make 2 in moss green. The legs are short and chubby, with rounded feet pointing slightly outward. The cream toe area and blue sandals are added after the green legs are complete.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
5. R5-R7: sc in each st around. (24)
6. R8: sc 6, dec 6 times, sc 6. (18)
7. R9: sc 5, dec 4 times, sc 5. (14)
8. R10-R17: sc in each st around. (14)
9. Stuff the foot firmly and the upper leg lightly.
10. R18: sc 5, dec, sc 5, dec. (12)
11. R19: sc in each st around. (12)

Flatten the top opening. Sc through both layers with 6 sc to close. FO, leaving a sewing tail. Sew the legs under the body at the front bottom, about 5 stitches apart, angled outward so the feet tilt slightly away from each other like the image.

Cream Toe Caps

Make 2. These create the pale tips visible at the front of each foot.

1. R1: With cream yarn, ch 6.
2. R2: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, work along other side, sc 3, inc. (12)
3. R3: inc, sc 3, inc in next 3 sts, sc 3, inc in next 2 sts. (18)
4. R4: sc in each st around. (18)

FO with a long tail. Flatten the piece slightly into a half oval. Sew one toe cap to the front of each foot across R1-R6 of the foot. Add three white vertical claw stitches on each green foot area just above the sandal sole.

Arms

Make 2 in moss green. The arms are small, rounded, and hang down beside the dress. The ends have tiny white claw stitches.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
4. R4-R6: sc in each st around. (18)
5. R7: sc 4, dec, repeat 3 times. (15)
6. R8: sc in each st around. (15)
7. R9: sc 3, dec, repeat 3 times. (12)
8. R10-R18: sc in each st around. (12)

Stuff the hand firmly and the arm lightly. Flatten the top and sc through both layers with 6 sc. FO, leaving a long sewing tail. Sew arms at the upper body sides, under the head and slightly over the yellow overall straps.

Arm Claws

• Using white embroidery yarn, stitch 3 short vertical claws on each hand.
• Place the claws at the rounded end of each arm, evenly spaced across 4 stitches.
• Do not make the stitches too long; the image shows neat, short claw marks.

Tail

The tail is green with a cream pointed tip. It extends from behind the overalls and curves slightly toward one side.

Cream Tail Tip

1. R1: With cream yarn, 4 sc in MR. (4)
2. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat twice. (6)
3. R3: sc 2, inc, repeat twice. (8)
4. R4: sc 3, inc, repeat twice. (10)
5. R5: sc in each st around. (10)

Change to moss green.

1. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat twice. (12)
2. R7-R10: sc in each st around. (12)
3. R11: sc 5, inc, repeat twice. (14)
4. R12-R16: sc in each st around. (14)
5. R17: sc 6, inc, repeat twice. (16)
6. R18-R21: sc in each st around. (16)

Stuff lightly so the tail stays flexible. Flatten the opening and sc through both layers with 8 sc. FO, leaving a long tail. Sew to the back lower body after the overalls are attached. Angle it slightly to the right side.

Small Cream Horns

Make 2. The image shows tiny pale horn nubs near the top side of the head, partly hidden by flowers.

1. R1: With cream yarn, 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. R2: sc in each st around. (5)
3. R3: inc, sc 4. (6)
4. R4: sc in each st around. (6)
5. R5: sc 2, inc, sc 3. (7)

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FO with a sewing tail. Do not overstuff. Sew one horn on each side of the top head between R7 and R10, angled outward. Keep them small so the flower crown remains the main top detail.

Cream Wings

Make 2. The wings are small, cream, and triangular with scalloped lower points. They sit behind the arms and straps, visible on both sides of the body.

1. R1: With cream yarn, ch 7.
2. R2: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, ch 1, turn. (6)
3. R3: inc, sc 4, inc, ch 1, turn. (8)
4. R4: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (8)
5. R5: inc, sc 6, inc, ch 1, turn. (10)
6. R6: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (10)
7. R7: sc 2, hdc 2, dc 2, hdc 2, sc 2, ch 1, turn. (10)
8. R8: sl st 1, sc 2, hdc 2, dc 1, hdc 2, sc 2, sl st 1. (10)

Now work across the lower edge for the scallops: ch 1, sc in first edge space, hdc 3 in next edge space, sl st in next edge space, hdc 3 in next edge space, sl st in next edge space, hdc 3 in next edge space, sc in final corner. FO with a long tail.

Sew wings to the back of the body between R8 and R15. Place them behind the yellow straps, with the wing tips pointing outward and slightly downward.

Yellow Overall Dress

The outfit in the image looks like a yellow overall dress with a bib, shoulder straps, and a flared skirt. It is not a tight bodysuit. It should sit over the green body, with the skirt widening toward the hem.

Skirt and Lower Overall

Use lemon yellow yarn. Work in joined rounds for a clean garment edge. Ch 1 at the start of each round does not count as a stitch.

1. R1: ch 38, join with sl st to form a ring, making sure not to twist. Sc in each ch around. Join. (38)
2. R2: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (38)
3. R3: ch 1, sc 5, inc, repeat 6 times, sc 2. Join. (44)
4. R4: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (44)
5. R5: ch 1, sc 6, inc, repeat 6 times, sc 2. Join. (50)
6. R6: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (50)
7. R7: ch 1, sc 7, inc, repeat 6 times, sc 2. Join. (56)
8. R8-R13: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (56)
9. R14: ch 1, sc 6, hdc 2 in next st, sc 6, sl st 1, repeat 4 times. Join. This creates a gentle scalloped hem. (60 including increases)

FO and weave in the tail. The skirt should flare, but not ruffle heavily. The lower edge in the image is softly wavy, so keep the scallops shallow.

Waistband

Join yellow yarn to the starting chain edge of the skirt.

1. R1: ch 1, sc evenly around the top edge, placing 38 sc. Join. (38)
2. R2: ch 1, BLO sc in each st around. Join. (38)
3. R3: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (38)

FO. Slide the skirt over the dragon body from the bottom before the legs are fully sewn if possible. The waistband should sit around R10-R12 of the body.

Front Bib

Work directly onto the front center of the waistband. Count 11 stitches centered on the front.

1. R1: Join yellow in the first of those 11 front stitches, ch 1, sc 11, ch 1, turn. (11)
2. R2: dec, sc 7, dec, ch 1, turn. (9)
3. R3: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (9)
4. R4: dec, sc 5, dec, ch 1, turn. (7)
5. R5-R6: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (7)
6. R7: sc in each st across. (7)

FO and weave in. The bib should cover the front chest but leave the green shoulders visible.

Shoulder Straps

Make 2 yellow straps. Each strap should run from the top bib to the back waistband. They cross slightly around the shoulders, like overalls.

1. Ch 19.
2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 18.
3. Ch 1, turn, sc 18 again for a thicker strap.
4. FO with long tails.

Sew one strap from the left top bib corner over the left shoulder to the back waistband. Sew the other from the right top bib corner over the right shoulder. Add a small white daisy at each front strap base to match the image.

Blue Flower Dots on Overalls

The yellow overalls are decorated with small blue floral dots scattered across the front. Make 10 to 12 tiny blue blossoms.

Tiny Blue Blossom

1. With sky blue yarn and 2.00 mm hook, make 5 sc in MR.
2. Join with sl st to first sc.
3. Ch 2, sl st in same st, repeat in each of the remaining 4 sts.
4. FO with a long tail.

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Sew the blossoms randomly over the skirt and bib. Place 3 blossoms on the bib, 6 to 8 on the skirt front, and 1 or 2 near the side. Keep the spacing uneven and natural, as shown in the image.

Daisy Flowers for Straps and Crown

Use white petals and yellow centers. Make several daisies in different sizes for the head crown, strap decorations, bag, and hat if desired.

Small Daisy

1. With yellow yarn, 6 sc in MR. Join and FO. (6)
2. Join white yarn in any stitch.
3. Ch 3, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, sl st into same yellow stitch.
4. Sl st into next yellow stitch.
5. Repeat the petal sequence 6 times total.
6. FO with a long tail for sewing.

Medium Daisy

1. With yellow yarn, 8 sc in MR. Join and FO. (8)
2. Join white yarn.
3. Ch 4, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 1, sl st into same yellow stitch.
4. Sl st into next yellow stitch.
5. Repeat until you have 8 petals.
6. FO with long tail.

Make 5 medium daisies for the flower crown, 2 small daisies for the dress straps, and 3 small daisies for the bag. The image shows white daisies with raised yellow centers, so keep the centers visible and rounded.

Pink Side Flower

The crown has one pink flower on the left side. Make it slightly smaller than the daisies but brighter in color.

1. With yellow yarn, 5 sc in MR. Join and FO. (5)
2. Join pink yarn.
3. In each yellow stitch: ch 2, dc 2, ch 2, sl st in same stitch.
4. Repeat for 5 petals.
5. FO with a long sewing tail.

Sew this flower at the left side of the head crown, near the side of the face, partly overlapping the green head.

Green Leaves for Crown

Make 5 to 7 leaves in dark green. These sit behind the daisies and ladybugs.

1. Ch 7.
2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1.
3. Ch 1, work down the other side of the chain: sc 1, hdc 1, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1.
4. Sl st to first stitch.
5. FO with long tail.

Pin the leaves first along the top of the head from left to right. Then sew daisies over them. The leaves should peek out behind the flowers, not cover the face.

Ladybugs for Flower Crown

Make 2 ladybugs. They are tiny red ovals with black heads and spots. Use a 2.00 mm hook.

Red Body

1. R1: With red yarn, 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. R2: inc around. (10)
3. R3: sc in each st around. (10)
4. R4: sc 3, dec, repeat twice. (8)

Stuff with a tiny pinch of fiberfill. FO and close. Add black embroidery spots and a center line.

Black Head

1. R1: With black yarn, 4 sc in MR. (4)
2. R2: sc in each st around. (4)

FO. Sew the black head to one end of the red body. Sew the ladybugs on the right side of the flower crown, one slightly higher and one slightly lower.

Flower Crown Assembly

1. Place the largest daisies across the top of the head from left to right.
2. Add green leaves behind the flowers, letting leaf tips point upward.
3. Sew the pink flower to the viewer’s left side.
4. Sew the two ladybugs to the viewer’s right side.
5. Add one small cream flower bud between daisies by making 6 sc in MR and closing into a puff.
6. Secure every piece with several stitches so children cannot pull them loose.

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Blue Sandals

The sandals have cream soles, sky blue straps, and little blue bows or flower knots at the outer sides. Make them after the legs are attached so the straps can fit exactly.

Cream Sole Edging

Make 2.

1. With cream yarn, ch 8.
2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch, work along other side, sc 5, inc in last ch. (16)
3. R2: inc, sc 5, inc in next 3 sts, sc 5, inc in next 2 sts. (22)
4. R3: BLO sc in each st around. (22)

FO with a long tail. Fit one sole under each foot. Sew around the lower edge, leaving the green toes visible above the sole.

Blue Front Strap

Make 2.

1. Ch 10 with sky blue yarn.
2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 9.
3. FO with tails.

Sew each strap over the toe area from one side of the cream sole to the other. The strap should cross the front third of the foot.

Blue Ankle Strap

Make 2.

1. Ch 16 with sky blue yarn.
2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 15.
3. FO with tails.

Wrap around the ankle area and sew at the side. Do not pull too tightly, or the foot will lose its rounded shape.

Side Bow for Sandals

Make 2 tiny bows.

1. With sky blue yarn, ch 5.
2. In 2nd ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st 1.
3. FO with a long tail.
4. Wrap the tail around the center 3 times to pinch the bow.

Sew one bow to the outer side of each sandal. Add a small cream stitch at the center if desired.

Small Blue Daisy Bag

The bag is a pale blue square pouch with rounded corners, a long strap, and three white daisies on the front. It sits beside the dragon in the image, but it can also be stitched lightly to one hand.

Bag Front

1. With sky blue yarn, ch 11.
2. R1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 10, ch 1, turn. (10)
3. R2-R9: sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (10)
4. R10: sc in each st across. (10)

Now crochet around the square: ch 1, sc evenly around all 4 sides, placing 3 sc in each corner. Join with sl st. FO.

Bag Back

Repeat the same instructions for the second square. Do not add flowers to the back.

Bag Joining

1. Hold front and back together with wrong sides facing.
2. Join sky blue yarn at the top left corner.
3. Sc down the side, across the bottom, and up the other side.
4. Leave the top edge open.
5. FO and weave in ends.

Bag Strap

1. Ch 72 with sky blue yarn.
2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in each ch across. (71)
3. FO with long tails.
4. Sew each strap end to the upper side corners of the bag.

Bag Daisies

Make 3 small daisies using the small daisy instructions. Sew them to the front of the bag in a triangle arrangement: two at the upper half and one near the lower center.

Yellow Garden Hat

The hat in the image is a flat round yellow sunhat with a blue ribbon and bow. It is placed beside the dragon, but it can also be displayed near the head.

Hat Crown

1. R1: With yellow yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. (42)
8. R8: BLO sc in each st around. (42)
9. R9-R11: sc in each st around. (42)

Hat Brim

1. R12: FLO sc 2, inc, repeat around. (56)
2. R13: sc 6, inc, repeat around. (64)
3. R14: sc in each st around. (64)
4. R15: sc 7, inc, repeat around. (72)
5. R16: sc in each st around. (72)
6. R17: sl st loosely around the brim. (72)

FO and weave in. Flatten the brim gently. The brim should be wide and smooth, like the round hat shown beside the dragon.

Blue Hat Ribbon and Bow

1. For ribbon, ch 52 with sky blue yarn.
2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st across. (51)
3. Sew the ribbon around the base of the crown.
4. For bow, ch 8, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 7, ch 1, turn, sc 7.
5. FO, wrap yarn around the center to pinch, and sew to one side of the hat ribbon.

Small Cream Watering Can

This accessory is optional but helps match the garden scene. The watering can is cream with a small blue water puff coming from the spout.

Can Body

1. R1: With cream yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
5. R5: BLO sc in each st around. (24)
6. R6-R10: sc in each st around. (24)
7. R11: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)
8. R12: sc 1, dec, repeat around. (12)

Stuff lightly. FO and close the top. Flatten the bottom slightly so it can sit on the table.

Can Opening

1. With cream yarn, ch 14 and join to form a ring.
2. R1: sc in each ch around. (14)
3. R2: sc in each st around. (14)

FO. Sew the ring to the top of the can as an open rim.

Spout

1. With cream yarn, 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. R2-R8: sc in each st around. (5)

Do not stuff. FO and sew to the side of the can, angled upward. Add a tiny blue puff at the end by making 6 sc in MR with sky blue yarn and closing it.

Handle

1. Ch 18 with cream yarn.
2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 17.
3. FO with tails.

Sew the handle to the opposite side of the can, forming a curved loop.

Tiny Bee Companion

The bee is small, yellow and black, with white wings. It sits near the dragon as a garden friend.

Bee Body

1. R1: With yellow yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: sc in each st around with yellow. (12)
4. R4: change to black, sc in each st around. (12)
5. R5: change to yellow, sc in each st around. (12)
6. R6: change to black, sc in each st around. (12)
7. R7: change to yellow, sc 1, dec, repeat around. (8)

Stuff lightly. FO and close. Embroider two small black eyes on the yellow front.

Bee Wings

Make 2 with white yarn.

1. Ch 5.
2. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 1, 5 dc in last ch.
3. Work along other side: dc 1, hdc 1, sc 1.
4. Join with sl st and FO.

Sew both wings to the top of the bee body. Keep them small and slightly raised.

Head-to-Body Assembly

Before sewing, place the yellow overalls on the body. Pin the body under the head with the front bib facing forward. The head should sit slightly tilted, giving the dragon a gentle, relaxed look.

1. Position the neck opening of the body against the bottom center of the head.
2. Use the body tail to sew around the neck twice.
3. Add extra stuffing into the neck area before closing the final gap.
4. Check that the head does not wobble.
5. Secure the yarn with a knot hidden under the back of the head.

Leg, Arm, Wing, and Tail Placement

• Legs: sew under the front lower body, angled outward, with feet visible below the skirt.
• Arms: sew to body sides at R17-R19 of the head/body join area, hanging over the dress sides.
• Wings: sew to the back body behind the straps, one on each side.
• Tail: sew to the back lower body, partly under the skirt, pointing to the side.
• Sandals: sew after legs are attached so the straps face forward correctly.

Decorating the Overalls

After the doll is assembled, sew the blue flower dots onto the yellow overalls. This helps you place the flowers where they can be seen clearly and avoids hiding them under the arms.

1. Place 3 tiny blue blossoms on the front bib.
2. Place 4 blossoms across the lower skirt front.
3. Place 2 blossoms on the viewer’s right side of the skirt.
4. Place 1 blossom on the viewer’s left side near the arm.
5. Add a white daisy to each strap where it meets the bib.

Use small stitches and matching thread. Do not pull tightly, because the yellow fabric should remain smooth and softly rounded.

Optional Dress Hem Texture

To make the scalloped hem more like the image, add a final surface stitch line in yellow just above the hem. Work with a yarn needle and make small running stitches through every other crochet stitch. This gives the lower edge a tidy handmade finish.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Pin every decorative piece before sewing permanently. The expression depends on the spacing of the eyes, eyebrow lines, cheeks, and snout. Keep the face simple, sweet, and symmetrical.

• Sew the snout centered below the eyes.
• Add cheek shaping after the snout is attached.
• Place eyebrows above the eyes with a gentle sleepy angle.
• Sew the horns first, then leaves, daisies, pink flower, and ladybugs.
• Add white claw stitches to hands and feet last.
• Check that the flower crown does not cover the eyes.

Care Notes

Spot clean the dragon with cool water and a soft cloth. Avoid soaking if you used safety eyes, blush, or glued details. Let the doll air dry completely before storing.

• Do not machine wash if the accessories are sewn on loosely.
• Do not tumble dry.
• Reshape the head, dress, wings, and flower crown while damp.
• Keep away from pets if small flowers or ladybugs can be chewed.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is larger than the body and softly rounded.
• The green snout is subtle, not oversized.
• The yellow overalls flare into a skirt shape.
• Blue flower dots are scattered unevenly across the dress.
• White daisies sit on both straps and across the head.
• Two red ladybugs sit on the right side of the crown.
• The cream wings peek out behind the arms.
• The sandals have blue straps and cream soles.
• The bag has three daisies and a long blue strap.
• The hat has a flat round brim and blue bow.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term display, keep the dragon away from direct sunlight so the green, yellow, and blue yarns stay bright. Store the doll in a breathable cotton bag instead of plastic. If dust collects on the flowers, use a soft dry brush and clean gently around each petal.

When packing the doll, support the flower crown with tissue paper and avoid pressing the wings flat. Keep the tiny bee, hat, watering can, and bag together in a small fabric pouch so the full garden set stays complete.