Crochet Tutorial: Dinosaur Amigurumi in Red Gingham Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Tutorial: Dinosaur Amigurumi in Red Gingham Dress – Free Crochet Pattern

This cheerful dinosaur amigurumi is designed with a soft yellow body, rounded snout, black safety eyes, green back spikes, and a sweet red bow. She wears a red and white gingham dress with white trim, a matching bonnet, and tiny picnic accessories including grapes, a shoulder bag, a small basket, sandals, and a separate gingham hat.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern makes a seated dinosaur doll with a large oval head, long rounded muzzle, sturdy sitting body, short arms, chunky legs, and a tapered tail. The clothing and accessories are worked separately, then sewn on carefully so the finished piece matches the pictured garden picnic style.

The dinosaur is crocheted mostly in continuous spiral rounds using tight single crochet stitches. The dress uses rows and rounds, with a red and white color-change gingham effect. The bonnet, dress trim, bag, basket, grapes, sandals, and loose picnic hat are small detailed pieces that give the toy its finished look.

Finished Size

  • Finished dinosaur height while seated: about 10.5 inches / 27 cm from seat to top of head.
  • Head length: about 5.5 inches / 14 cm from back of head to snout tip.
  • Body height: about 4.5 inches / 11.5 cm.
  • Leg length: about 3.5 inches / 9 cm including foot sole.
  • Tail length: about 4.25 inches / 11 cm.
  • Dress length: about 4 inches / 10 cm from bodice shoulder to lower hem.
  • Loose picnic hat width: about 4.5 inches / 11.5 cm across brim.

Skill Level

Intermediate. The dinosaur body uses beginner-friendly amigurumi shaping, but the outfit requires frequent color changes, small appliqués, and neat sewing. A confident beginner can complete it by working slowly and marking every round.

Materials

  • Sport weight or light DK cotton yarn in lemon yellow for the dinosaur body.
  • Small amount of green yarn for head crest, back spikes, and sandal leaves.
  • Red yarn for gingham checks, bow, dress trim accents, cherries, and strawberries.
  • White yarn for gingham checks, bonnet edge, dress trim, small flowers, and highlights.
  • Beige yarn for soles, bags, basket, straps, and sandals.
  • Light tan yarn for foot pads and bag accent.
  • Purple yarn in two shades for the grape cluster.
  • Tiny amount of pink or dusty rose yarn for neck tie and flower center details.
  • 2.25 mm crochet hook for firm amigurumi fabric.
  • 2.75 mm crochet hook for the dress skirt if you want a softer drape.
  • 8 mm black safety eyes.
  • Fiberfill stuffing.
  • Yarn needle.
  • Stitch markers.
  • Sharp scissors.
  • Pins for positioning pieces before sewing.
  • Optional: thin cardboard or plastic canvas for bag and sandal firmness.

Abbreviations in US Terms

  • MR: magic ring
  • ch: chain
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • sc: single crochet
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • dc: double crochet
  • inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
  • dec: invisible single crochet decrease
  • BLO: back loop only
  • FLO: front loop only
  • st/sts: stitch/stitches
  • R: round or row
  • FO: fasten off

Gauge and Crochet Texture

Work tightly enough that stuffing does not show through the stitches. For the body, 6 sc and 6 rounds should measure about 1 inch / 2.5 cm with the 2.25 mm hook. The toy in the image has a smooth, dense amigurumi surface with visible but compact single crochet stitches.

The gingham pieces should be slightly softer than the dinosaur body. If your dress becomes too stiff, switch to a 2.75 mm hook only for the skirt, apron, bonnet fabric, and loose picnic hat. Keep the dinosaur body, feet, arms, spikes, grapes, and accessories firm with the smaller hook.

Important Color Notes for the Gingham Look

The red and white gingham dress is not a plain red dress. To copy the image, alternate small red and white blocks. Each block is 2 stitches wide and 2 rows tall. Carry the unused color behind the stitches, or cut and rejoin if you prefer a cleaner wrong side.

  • Odd gingham rows: work 2 red sc, 2 white sc, repeated across.
  • Even gingham rows: repeat the same colors directly above the previous row.
  • Next two rows: reverse the order, working 2 white sc, 2 red sc across.
  • This creates the small picnic-check effect shown on the dress and bonnet.

Body Construction Notes

The dinosaur is built in separate sections. The head is shaped like a long rounded oval with a larger snout at the front. The body is pear-shaped and seated. The legs are attached forward and slightly outward. The arms curve gently down along the dress sides.

The head is sewn to the body at a slight upward angle, so the snout points forward and a little up. The tail is sewn behind the body for balance. The green back spikes run from the top of the head, down the neck, and along the tail base.

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Dinosaur Head and Snout

Use lemon yellow yarn and the 2.25 mm hook. Work in continuous rounds. Stuff the head firmly as you go, especially around the long snout, so it keeps a smooth rounded shape.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc in each st around. (12)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat 6 times. (18)
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat 6 times. (24)
  5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat 6 times. (30)
  6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat 6 times. (36)
  7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat 6 times. (42)
  8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat 6 times. (48)
  9. R9: sc 7, inc, repeat 6 times. (54)
  10. R10-R17: sc around for 8 rounds. (54)
  11. R18: sc 20, inc in next 6 sts, sc 28. (60)
  12. R19: sc 22, inc in next 8 sts, sc 30. (68)
  13. R20-R25: sc around for 6 rounds. (68)
  14. R26: sc 22, dec 8 times, sc 30. (60)
  15. R27: sc around. (60)
  16. R28: sc 8, dec, repeat 6 times. (54)
  17. R29: sc around. (54)
  18. R30: sc 7, dec, repeat 6 times. (48)
  19. R31: sc around. (48)
  20. R32: sc 6, dec, repeat 6 times. (42)
  21. R33: sc around. (42)
  22. R34: sc 5, dec, repeat 6 times. (36)
  23. R35: sc 4, dec, repeat 6 times. (30)
  24. R36: sc 3, dec, repeat 6 times. (24)
  25. R37: sc 2, dec, repeat 6 times. (18)
  26. Add final stuffing. R38: sc 1, dec, repeat 6 times. (12)
  27. R39: dec around. (6)
  28. FO, close the hole, and weave in the tail.

Snout Shape Detail

The increases on R18 and R19 form the fuller upper snout. When placing the head, rotate it so those extra increases sit toward the front-right and front-left sides, making a broad dinosaur muzzle. The final closed end is the back underside of the head.

Eye Placement and Nostril Bumps

  • Place the eyes between R18 and R19 of the head section, about 13 stitches apart across the front upper face.
  • The visible eye in the image sits high and slightly behind the snout curve.
  • Insert safety eyes before fully closing the head.
  • For each nostril bump, use yellow yarn and make 5 sc in MR, sl st to close, FO with long tail.
  • Sew two nostril bumps on the front upper snout, about 6 stitches apart, between R11 and R13 from the snout tip.

Small Cheek and Smile Detail

The image shows a soft curved smile line under the snout. Use a strand of darker yellow or light tan embroidery yarn. Insert the needle under the head near the lower left snout, make a shallow curved stitch across 12 stitches, and secure it invisibly on the opposite side.

Body

Use lemon yellow yarn. The body is rounded at the tummy, slightly narrow at the neck, and wide enough at the base for the dinosaur to sit steadily.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat 6 times. (18)
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat 6 times. (24)
  5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat 6 times. (30)
  6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat 6 times. (36)
  7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat 6 times. (42)
  8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat 6 times. (48)
  9. R9-R16: sc around for 8 rounds. (48)
  10. R17: sc 14, inc, sc 18, inc, sc 14. (50)
  11. R18-R21: sc around for 4 rounds. (50)
  12. R22: sc 8, dec, repeat 5 times. (45)
  13. R23: sc around. (45)
  14. R24: sc 7, dec, repeat 5 times. (40)
  15. R25: sc around. (40)
  16. R26: sc 6, dec, repeat 5 times. (35)
  17. R27: sc around. (35)
  18. R28: sc 5, dec, repeat 5 times. (30)
  19. R29: sc around. (30)
  20. R30: sc 3, dec, repeat 6 times. (24)
  21. R31-R32: sc around for 2 rounds. (24)
  22. FO with a long tail for sewing the head to the body.

Stuff the body firmly at the base and medium-firm near the neck. The lower body should feel solid, because the legs, tail, and skirt all pull slightly on it.

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Legs, Feet, and Tan Foot Pads

Make 2 legs. Start with tan yarn for the oval sole, then switch to yellow for the foot and leg. The feet are rounded and point forward, matching the seated pose in the image.

Foot and Leg

  1. With tan yarn, ch 9.
  2. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch. Work on other side of chain: sc 6, inc in last st. (18)
  3. R2: inc, sc 6, inc in next 3 sts, sc 6, inc in next 2 sts. (24)
  4. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 6, repeat sc 1, inc 3 times, sc 6, repeat sc 1, inc 2 times. (30)
  5. R4: BLO sc around. (30)
  6. Switch to yellow. R5: sc around. (30)
  7. R6: sc 9, dec 6 times, sc 9. (24)
  8. R7: sc 8, dec 4 times, sc 8. (20)
  9. R8-R11: sc around for 4 rounds. (20)
  10. R12: sc 8, dec, sc 8, dec. (18)
  11. R13-R18: sc around for 6 rounds. (18)
  12. Stuff the foot firmly and the upper leg lightly.
  13. R19: sc 1, dec, repeat 6 times. (12)
  14. R20: dec around. (6)
  15. FO, close, and leave a long tail for sewing.

Raised Sole Rim

With beige yarn, join to the front loop left from R4. Work 1 sl st in each front loop around the sole. This creates the raised beige edge visible around each foot.

Arms

Make 2 arms in lemon yellow. They are narrow, rounded, and slightly curved. Do not overstuff them, or they will stick out too stiffly.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat 6 times. (18)
  4. R4-R7: sc around for 4 rounds. (18)
  5. R8: sc 4, dec, repeat 3 times. (15)
  6. R9-R18: sc around for 10 rounds. (15)
  7. R19: sc 3, dec, repeat 3 times. (12)
  8. R20-R22: sc around for 3 rounds. (12)
  9. Stuff hand firmly and upper arm lightly.
  10. Flatten opening and sc 6 through both layers.
  11. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Tail

The tail tapers from a narrow point to a thick base. It sits behind the body and curves gently to one side on the table.

  1. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
  2. R2: sc around. (5)
  3. R3: inc, sc 4. (6)
  4. R4: sc around. (6)
  5. R5: sc 1, inc, repeat 3 times. (9)
  6. R6-R7: sc around for 2 rounds. (9)
  7. R8: sc 2, inc, repeat 3 times. (12)
  8. R9-R10: sc around for 2 rounds. (12)
  9. R11: sc 3, inc, repeat 3 times. (15)
  10. R12-R13: sc around for 2 rounds. (15)
  11. R14: sc 4, inc, repeat 3 times. (18)
  12. R15-R16: sc around for 2 rounds. (18)
  13. R17: sc 5, inc, repeat 3 times. (21)
  14. R18-R19: sc around for 2 rounds. (21)
  15. R20: sc 6, inc, repeat 3 times. (24)
  16. R21-R22: sc around for 2 rounds. (24)
  17. Stuff gradually, keeping the tip flexible.
  18. FO with a long tail for sewing.

Green Back Spikes

Make 7 green spikes: 1 large head spike, 3 medium neck and back spikes, and 3 small tail spikes. Each spike is a small cone sewn along the center back.

Large Head Spike

  1. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
  2. R2: sc around. (5)
  3. R3: inc around. (10)
  4. R4: sc around. (10)
  5. R5: sc 1, inc, repeat 5 times. (15)
  6. R6-R8: sc around for 3 rounds. (15)
  7. FO with long tail. Stuff lightly.

Medium Spikes, Make 3

  1. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
  2. R2: sc around. (5)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat 2 times, sc 1. (7)
  4. R4: sc around. (7)
  5. R5: sc 1, inc, repeat 3 times, sc 1. (10)
  6. R6-R7: sc around for 2 rounds. (10)
  7. FO with long tail. Stuff very lightly.

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Small Tail Spikes, Make 3

  1. R1: 4 sc in MR. (4)
  2. R2: sc around. (4)
  3. R3: inc around. (8)
  4. R4-R5: sc around for 2 rounds. (8)
  5. FO with long tail. Do not overstuff.

Red Bow Near Bonnet

The red bow sits on the side of the head near the bonnet edge. It has two rounded loops and a small center wrap.

Bow Loops

  1. With red yarn, ch 9.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (8)
  3. Rows 2-5: ch 1, turn, sc across. (8)
  4. FO, leaving a tail.
  5. Wrap yarn tightly around the center 8 times to pinch the rectangle into a bow.
  6. Secure the wrap at the back.

Bow Center

  1. With red yarn, ch 5.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (4)
  3. FO. Wrap this strip over the pinched center and sew at the back.

Red and White Gingham Dress

The dress has a fitted white-trimmed bodice, red gingham skirt, white scalloped hem, and small apron-style front panel. It should sit over the body without covering the feet completely.

Bodice Base

Use white yarn first. Work in rows.

  1. Ch 37.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (36)
  3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc 5, ch 6, skip 6, sc 14, ch 6, skip 6, sc 5. (36 including chains)
  4. Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc and ch across. (36)
  5. Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc 4, inc, sc 26, inc, sc 4. (38)
  6. Row 5: begin gingham pattern, ch 1, turn, sc across using 2-stitch color blocks. (38)
  7. Row 6: ch 1, turn, repeat the same color blocks as Row 5. (38)
  8. Rows 7-8: ch 1, turn, reverse the color blocks. (38)
  9. FO, leaving a long white tail for sewing the back seam later.

Skirt

Join red yarn at the lower edge of the bodice. Work in turned rounds or joined rows to keep the gingham blocks straight. Use the 2.75 mm hook if the fabric is too firm.

  1. R1: ch 1, work 2 sc in each lower-edge stitch around the bodice. Join with sl st. (76)
  2. R2: ch 1, work gingham blocks of 2 red sc and 2 white sc around. Join. (76)
  3. R3: ch 1, repeat the same color placement as R2. Join. (76)
  4. R4: ch 1, reverse the color placement: 2 white sc, 2 red sc around. Join. (76)
  5. R5: ch 1, repeat R4 color placement. Join. (76)
  6. R6: ch 1, work 2 red sc, 2 white sc around. Join. (76)
  7. R7: ch 1, repeat R6 color placement. Join. (76)
  8. R8: ch 1, work 2 white sc, 2 red sc around. Join. (76)
  9. R9: ch 1, repeat R8 color placement. Join. (76)
  10. R10: ch 1, work 2 red sc, 2 white sc around. Join. (76)
  11. R11: ch 1, repeat R10 color placement. Join. (76)
  12. R12: with white yarn only, sc around. Join. (76)
  13. R13: ch 1, sc in first st, skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, repeat around. Join and FO.

Dress Back Closure

Wrap the dress around the dinosaur body. Sew the back opening closed from the waist down only. Leave the upper bodice open enough to slip over the head if you want the dress removable. For a permanent display doll, sew the entire back seam neatly.

Front Apron Panel

The image shows a red gingham front area framed by white trim. Make this small apron panel and sew it onto the center front of the dress.

  1. With white yarn, ch 17.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (16)
  3. Rows 2-3: work gingham blocks, 2 red sc and 2 white sc across. (16)
  4. Rows 4-5: reverse blocks, 2 white sc and 2 red sc across. (16)
  5. Rows 6-9: continue alternating every 2 rows. (16)
  6. Row 10: with white yarn, sc across. (16)
  7. Work a white border around all four sides: 1 sc in each stitch and row end, placing 3 sc in each corner.
  8. FO with long tail and sew to center front of dress skirt.

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Dress Shoulder Straps and Side Trim

The shoulder area has pale straps and little red details. Add these after the dress is on the body.

  • For each strap, use white yarn and ch 16.
  • Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (15)
  • FO, sew one strap over each shoulder from front bodice to back bodice.
  • With red yarn, embroider 4 small straight stitches on each strap to look like red gingham accents.
  • Add a white running stitch along the waistline to sharpen the bodice and skirt division.

White Scalloped Dress Hem

If your lower skirt edge needs extra volume, add a second scalloped trim under the first hem.

  1. Join white yarn to the wrong side of R12 of the skirt.
  2. Ch 1, sc in same st.
  3. Skip 1 st, 4 hdc in next st, skip 1 st, sc in next st.
  4. Repeat around the hem.
  5. Join with sl st and FO.

Matching Gingham Bonnet on Head

The bonnet is fitted over the back of the head. It uses red and white checks with a white edge and red bow. It should sit behind the eyes and wrap over the top back of the head, leaving the snout and face open.

Bonnet Crown

  1. With white yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat 6 times. (18)
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat 6 times. (24)
  5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat 6 times. (30)
  6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat 6 times. (36)
  7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat 6 times. (42)
  8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat 6 times. (48)
  9. R9: begin gingham, 2 red sc, 2 white sc around. (48)
  10. R10: repeat same color placement. (48)
  11. R11: reverse colors, 2 white sc, 2 red sc around. (48)
  12. R12: repeat same color placement as R11. (48)
  13. R13-R16: continue alternating every 2 rounds. (48)
  14. R17: with white yarn, sc 36 only, leave remaining 12 sts unworked for face opening. Ch 1, turn. (36)
  15. Rows 18-20: sc across 36, ch 1, turn after Rows 18 and 19.
  16. FO.

Bonnet Edge

  1. Join white yarn at one lower corner of the bonnet opening.
  2. Sc evenly around the face opening and lower neck edge.
  3. At the face opening, work: sc, ch 2, sc in every third stitch for a tiny ruffle.
  4. FO and weave in ends.

Bonnet Ties

  • Attach white or pale pink yarn to each lower corner of the bonnet.
  • Ch 24 for each tie.
  • Sl st back along the chain.
  • Tie loosely under the dinosaur chin, then secure with a hidden stitch so it does not fall out of place.

Neck Ruffle

The image has a small pale ruffled collar under the chin. Use white, beige, and dusty pink yarn for a soft layered look.

  1. With white yarn, ch 31.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (30)
  3. Row 2: ch 2, turn, 3 hdc in each st across. (90)
  4. FO.
  5. With dusty pink yarn, sl st along the top foundation edge.
  6. Wrap around the neck and sew the ends together at the back.

Shoulder Picnic Bag

The larger shoulder bag hangs on the dinosaur’s left side. It is beige with a round brown cookie or pastry patch on the front and a long strap over the shoulder.

Bag Body

  1. With beige yarn, ch 15.
  2. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 12, 3 sc in last ch. Work along other side: sc 12, inc in last st. (30)
  3. R2: inc, sc 12, inc in next 3 sts, sc 12, inc in next 2 sts. (36)
  4. R3: BLO sc around. (36)
  5. R4-R11: sc around for 8 rounds. (36)
  6. R12: sc 8, dec, sc 16, dec, sc 8. (34)
  7. R13: sc around. (34)
  8. Flatten slightly. Sc 17 through front layer only to create a soft top edge, then FO.

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Bag Flap

  1. With beige yarn, ch 17.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (16)
  3. Rows 2-6: ch 1, turn, sc across. (16)
  4. Row 7: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 12, dec. (14)
  5. Row 8: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 10, dec. (12)
  6. Work sc around the flap edge, placing 2 sc in each lower corner.
  7. FO and sew flap to the back top edge of bag.

Round Pastry Patch

  1. With warm brown yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat 6 times. (18)
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat 6 times. (24)
  5. FO. Sew to center front of bag flap.
  6. With white yarn, make a tiny triangle by ch 4, sc in 2nd ch, hdc in next ch, dc in last ch. FO and sew on pastry patch.

Long Bag Strap

  1. With beige yarn, ch 76.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (75)
  3. FO with long tails.
  4. Sew one end to each side of the bag.
  5. Place strap over the dinosaur’s shoulder before sewing the arm fully down.

Small Front Basket

The small basket sits near the dinosaur’s hand. It is beige, boxy, and contains little flowers or picnic pieces in purple and white.

Basket Base and Sides

  1. With beige yarn, ch 12.
  2. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 9, 3 sc in last ch. Work other side: sc 9, inc in last st. (24)
  3. R2: inc, sc 9, inc in next 3 sts, sc 9, inc in next 2 sts. (30)
  4. R3: BLO sc around. (30)
  5. R4-R8: sc around. (30)
  6. R9: sl st around loosely. FO.

Basket Handle

  1. With beige yarn, ch 26.
  2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (25)
  3. FO and sew each end to the basket sides.

Tiny Flowers for Basket

  • Make 3 white flowers: MR, ch 2, 2 hdc, sl st into ring, repeat 5 petals, pull closed, FO.
  • Make 2 purple flowers the same way.
  • Sew flowers into the basket opening, layering them so they peek above the rim.

Purple Grape Cluster

The dinosaur holds a cluster of purple grapes beside the dress. Each grape is a tiny stuffed ball. Make 9 grapes for a full cluster.

Grapes, Make 9

  1. With purple yarn, 5 sc in MR. (5)
  2. R2: inc around. (10)
  3. R3-R4: sc around for 2 rounds. (10)
  4. Add a tiny pinch of stuffing.
  5. R5: dec around. (5)
  6. FO and close.

Grape Assembly

  • Sew 4 grapes in the bottom row.
  • Sew 3 grapes above them.
  • Sew 2 grapes at the top.
  • With green yarn, ch 7, sl st back along chain for a stem.
  • Sew the stem to the top and attach the grape cluster to the dinosaur’s hand or dress side.

Separate Red Gingham Picnic Hat

The image includes a loose matching hat on the table. It has a rounded crown, red and white gingham pattern, and a soft brim with white trim. This piece is separate from the bonnet.

Hat Crown

  1. With white yarn, 6 sc in MR. (6)
  2. R2: inc around. (12)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat 6 times. (18)
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat 6 times. (24)
  5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat 6 times. (30)
  6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat 6 times. (36)
  7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat 6 times. (42)
  8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat 6 times. (48)
  9. R9: BLO sc around. (48)
  10. R10-R17: work gingham blocks, alternating 2 red and 2 white stitches every 2 rounds. (48)

Hat Brim

  1. R18: with white yarn, FLO sc 1, inc, repeat around. (72)
  2. R19: sc around. (72)
  3. R20: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (96)
  4. R21: sc around. (96)
  5. R22: with red yarn, sl st around loosely. (96)
  6. FO and weave in ends.

Tiny Strawberry on Hat

  1. With red yarn, 5 sc in MR. (5)
  2. R2: sc around. (5)
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat 2 times, sc 1. (7)
  4. R4: sc around. (7)
  5. FO and lightly shape into a berry.
  6. With green yarn, sew 3 tiny straight stitches at the top for leaves.
  7. Sew to the side of the hat brim.

Beige Sandals with Red Fruit Motifs

The sandals are separate accessories placed beside the dinosaur. They are beige with crisscross straps and red fruit decorations. Make 2 sandals.

Sandal Sole

  1. With beige yarn, ch 12.
  2. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 9, 3 sc in last ch. Work other side: sc 9, inc in last st. (24)
  3. R2: inc, sc 9, inc in next 3 sts, sc 9, inc in next 2 sts. (30)
  4. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 9, repeat sc 1, inc 3 times, sc 9, repeat sc 1, inc 2 times. (36)
  5. R4: sl st around. FO.

Sandal Footbed

  1. With light tan yarn, repeat R1-R3 of the sole.
  2. Place tan footbed on top of beige sole.
  3. Using beige yarn, sc both layers together around the edge. FO.

Sandal Straps

  • Toe strap: with beige yarn, ch 10, sc back 9 sts, FO. Sew across the front third of the sole.
  • Middle strap: ch 14, sc back 13 sts, FO. Sew diagonally from lower left to upper right.
  • Second diagonal strap: ch 14, sc back 13 sts, FO. Sew from lower right to upper left.

Red Fruit on Sandals

  • For each red fruit, make 5 sc in MR, sl st to close, FO.
  • Make 3 red fruits per sandal.
  • With green yarn, embroider two tiny leaf stitches above each fruit.
  • Sew fruits along the center strap line.

Tiny Dress Strawberries and White Flowers

The dress in the image has small red and white decorative spots that look like strawberries and flowers over the gingham. Add them sparingly so the gingham still shows.

Mini Strawberries, Make 6

  1. With red yarn, 4 sc in MR. (4)
  2. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat 2 times. (6)
  3. R3: sc around. (6)
  4. FO and flatten slightly.
  5. Use green yarn to make 2 tiny leaf stitches at the top.

Mini White Flowers, Make 8

  1. With white yarn, MR.
  2. Ch 2, sl st into ring, repeat 5 times.
  3. Pull ring closed and FO.
  4. Add a tiny red center with one straight stitch if desired.

Sew the strawberries and flowers onto the apron and lower skirt. Keep them balanced: 2 on the apron, 4 around the lower skirt, and the white flowers scattered between them.

Head-to-Body Assembly

  1. Pin the head to the body before sewing. The head should sit high, with the snout projecting forward.
  2. The body neck opening should touch the underside of the head around R31-R35.
  3. Use the long body yarn tail to sew around the neck twice.
  4. Add extra stuffing into the neck area before closing the seam completely.
  5. Check from the side. The dinosaur should look friendly and upright, not looking downward.

Attaching Legs

Sew the legs to the lower front body between R7 and R14 of the body. Angle the feet upward slightly, with the tan soles facing forward. Leave about 5 stitches of space between the inner thighs.

  1. Pin both legs before sewing.
  2. Make sure the dinosaur can sit without tipping forward.
  3. Sew around the upper leg opening using small whip stitches.
  4. Add 2 hidden anchor stitches from the inner leg to the body for stability.

Attaching Tail

Sew the tail to the center back of the body between R7 and R13. The thick base should attach firmly under the skirt. Angle the tail slightly to the dinosaur’s left or right, as shown in the image.

  • Pin the tail before sewing the dress permanently.
  • Sew around the base twice.
  • Add one hidden stitch from the tail underside to the table-facing body area if you want a stronger seated position.

Attaching Arms

The arms are sewn after the dress is placed on the body. They sit at the sides of the bodice and curve downward over the dress. One hand can touch the grape cluster or basket strap.

  1. Place arms at body R25-R28, just below the shoulder line.
  2. Angle each arm downward and slightly forward.
  3. Sew the flattened top edge of each arm to the body.
  4. Add 2 small stitches near each wrist to hold the hand against the dress if desired.

Attaching Spikes

Arrange the green spikes in a centered line. The large spike goes on top of the head, the medium spikes continue down the neck and upper back, and the small spikes continue onto the tail base.

  1. Pin the large spike to the top back of the head.
  2. Pin 3 medium spikes down the back of the neck and upper body.
  3. Pin 3 small spikes along the upper tail line.
  4. Sew each spike around its base using matching green yarn.
  5. Keep them standing upright but soft, not tightly flattened.

Fitting the Dress

Slide the dress over the dinosaur from the feet upward before attaching the head if you want easier fitting. If the head is already sewn on, leave the back bodice open and wrap the dress around the body.

  • The bodice should sit just below the neck ruffle.
  • The skirt should flare over the hips and upper legs.
  • The hem should not fully hide the yellow feet.
  • The apron panel should sit centered between the arms.
  • The waistline should be level when viewed from the front.

Adding the Bonnet and Bow

Place the bonnet over the back of the head. The open edge should frame the side of the face and stop behind the eye. Sew it invisibly along the lower back edge if you want it permanent.

  1. Pin the bonnet in place first.
  2. Tie the bonnet cords softly under the chin.
  3. Sew the red bow on the viewer’s left side near the bonnet edge.
  4. Use two stitches through the bow center and two stitches through each loop so it keeps its shape.

Adding the Bags and Picnic Details

Place the large shoulder bag strap over one shoulder so the bag rests beside the dress. Place the small basket near the opposite hand. The accessories should look natural, like the dinosaur is sitting at a garden picnic.

  • Sew the long shoulder bag strap lightly to the shoulder under the arm.
  • Attach the grape cluster to one hand with 2 hidden stitches.
  • Place the small basket against the skirt and sew only at the back so it still looks separate.
  • Set the loose hat and sandals beside the doll for a full display scene.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the face before trimming any yarn tails. The eyes should be even, glossy, and placed high enough to give a gentle dinosaur expression. The nostril bumps should sit on the upper snout and remain small, not oversized.

  • Use yellow yarn to close any visible gaps around the neck seam.
  • Use light tan embroidery to refine the smile curve.
  • Add one tiny white stitch beside each eye if you want a shiny highlight.
  • Brush away loose fibers with clean fingers.
  • Make sure all small accessories are securely sewn if the doll will be handled often.

Care Notes

Spot clean only, especially because the dress has red and white color changes. Use a damp cloth and mild soap. Do not soak the doll, because the stuffing may shift and the red yarn could bleed into the white details.

  • Keep away from direct sunlight for long periods.
  • Do not machine wash if safety eyes, cardboard inserts, or many sewn accessories are used.
  • Reshape the snout, feet, bonnet, and skirt gently while damp.
  • Let the toy air dry completely before storing.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Head is firmly attached and angled forward.
  • Snout is smooth, long, and rounded.
  • Eyes are even and set above the snout line.
  • Green spikes run in a centered line from head to tail.
  • Dress has visible red and white gingham blocks.
  • White scalloped hem is even around the skirt.
  • Bonnet fits the back of the head and leaves the face open.
  • Bow is placed on the side near the bonnet.
  • Legs sit forward with tan soles visible.
  • Tail supports the seated pose from the back.
  • Picnic bag, basket, grapes, hat, and sandals are complete.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term display, store the dinosaur in a dry place with airflow. Keep the separate sandals and hat in a small fabric pouch so they do not get lost. If dust collects on the dress, dab gently with low-tack tape or use a soft clean brush.

If the gingham dress becomes wrinkled, smooth it with your fingers and lightly steam from a safe distance. Do not press the crochet fabric flat with an iron. The raised stitches, scalloped hem, tiny fruits, and flower details look best when they keep their soft handmade texture.

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