Crochet Tutorial: Crazy Green Mosquito Gardener – Free Crochet Pattern

This cheerful crochet mosquito gardener has a bright green body, oversized white eyes, a long pointed proboscis, a wide toothy smile, blue denim-style overalls, striped sleeves, black mesh wings, tan sandals, a straw garden hat, a tiny watering can bag, and small garden tools. The finished doll is playful, lanky, and full of handmade charm, just like the character shown in the image.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

• Using sport weight cotton yarn and a 2.25 mm hook, the mosquito measures about 12 inches tall from the top of the eyes to the soles.
• The body is slim and tall, with long arms and legs, a narrow neck, a wide smiling head, and a long downward-pointing proboscis.
• The overalls sit high on the torso and end above the knees, with rolled cuffs and two shoulder straps.

Skill Level

This pattern is best for confident beginners to intermediate crocheters. Most parts use single crochet in continuous rounds. Small details such as the teeth grid, tiny flowers, straps, sandals, and black wing outlines require careful sewing.

Materials

• Yarn A: bright lime green cotton yarn for head, neck, body, arms, legs, and feet.
• Yarn B: white cotton yarn for eyes, teeth panel, and shirt sleeves.
• Yarn C: denim blue cotton yarn for overalls.
• Yarn D: light blue cotton yarn for rolled cuffs and pocket trim.
• Yarn E: tan cotton yarn for hat, bag strap, watering can, and sandal soles.
• Yarn F: brown cotton yarn for sandal straps and tool handles.
• Yarn G: black cotton yarn or embroidery floss for wing frame, smile grid, antennae, and outlines.
• Yarn H: gray cotton yarn for shovel head.
• Scrap yarn: red, yellow, orange, pink, green, and cream for flowers, vegetables, and tiny details.
• 2.25 mm crochet hook for the main doll.
• 1.75 mm crochet hook for flowers, pocket details, and tiny accessories.
• Two 6 mm black safety eyes or black beads for the large white eyes.
• Two 6 mm tan buttons for the overall straps.
• Polyester fiberfill.
• Stitch marker.
• Yarn needle.
• Black pipe cleaner or floral wire for antennae and wing structure.
• Optional thin craft wire for arms, legs, and proboscis.
• Fabric glue, only for securing tiny knots if desired.

Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st: stitch
• rnd: round
• FO: fasten off

Gauge and Construction Notes

Gauge is not critical, but the stitches must be tight enough that stuffing does not show. For a firm amigurumi look, crochet with even tension and stuff gradually as you work. The mosquito in the image has smooth, compact stitches and a narrow, slightly bendable shape.

Work most green body parts in continuous rounds. Do not join unless instructed. The head is a wide horizontal oval, not a round ball. The proboscis is long, slim, and angled down toward the left side of the doll. The eyes sit on top of the head and lean slightly outward.

The finished character should look skinny and funny rather than bulky. Keep the arms and legs lightly stuffed or use wire inside them. The overalls should fit snugly over the body and legs, with the shirt visible at the shoulders and upper chest.

Head

Use Yarn A, bright lime green. The head is worked as a flattened oval muzzle shape, wider than it is tall.

1. Rnd 1: Ch 9. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch. Continue on the other side of the chain, sc 6, inc in last ch. 18 sts
2. Rnd 2: inc, sc 6, inc 3 times, sc 6, inc 2 times. 24 sts
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc, sc 6, repeat inc and sc 1 three times around the curved end, sc 6, repeat inc and sc 1 twice. 30 sts
4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc, sc 7, repeat inc and sc 2 three times, sc 7, repeat inc and sc 2 twice. 36 sts
5. Rnd 5: sc around. 36 sts
6. Rnd 6: sc 12, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 12, inc, sc 4. 40 sts
7. Rnd 7: sc around. 40 sts
8. Rnd 8: sc 14, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 14. 43 sts
9. Rnd 9: sc around. 43 sts
10. Rnd 10: sc 15, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 5, dec, sc 12. 40 sts
11. Rnd 11: sc 8, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 6. 36 sts
12. Rnd 12: sc 4, dec around as evenly as possible until 30 sts remain. 30 sts

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Stuff the head firmly but keep the front face slightly flat where the smile panel will be attached. FO with a long tail. Do not close completely yet if you need space to position the neck securely.

Long Proboscis

The proboscis is the most recognizable feature. It should be long, slim, soft, and slightly tapered, pointing diagonally down from the center front of the face.

1. Rnd 1: With Yarn A, make MR, 5 sc in ring. 5 sts
2. Rnd 2: sc around. 5 sts
3. Rnd 3: inc, sc 4. 6 sts
4. Rnd 4-6: sc around. 6 sts
5. Rnd 7: inc, sc 5. 7 sts
6. Rnd 8-11: sc around. 7 sts
7. Rnd 12: inc, sc 6. 8 sts
8. Rnd 13-18: sc around. 8 sts
9. Rnd 19: inc, sc 7. 9 sts
10. Rnd 20-23: sc around. 9 sts
11. Rnd 24: inc, sc 8. 10 sts
12. Rnd 25-27: sc around. 10 sts

Lightly stuff only the base and middle. Leave the tip soft. Insert a thin craft wire if you want the proboscis to hold a gentle curve. FO, leaving a long sewing tail. Sew the wide end to the front center of the head, slightly below the eyes and above the smile panel. Angle it downward and to the doll’s left.

Wide Tooth Smile Panel

Use Yarn B, white. This piece forms the large rectangular grin seen across the front of the green face.

1. Row 1: Ch 19, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 18 sts
2. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 18 sts
3. Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc 2, hdc 14, sc 2. 18 sts
4. Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 18 sts

Work a border around the panel: sc 18 across the top, 3 sc into the corner, sc 4 down the side, 3 sc into the corner, sc 18 across the bottom, 3 sc into the corner, sc 4 up the side, 3 sc into the final corner. FO with a long white tail.

Using black embroidery floss, stitch vertical lines across the panel every 2 stitches. Then stitch 2 horizontal lines across the full width. This creates the cartoon tooth grid. Sew the smile panel onto the front of the head, slightly curved upward at both ends.

Large Eyes

Make two white eyes. One eye is slightly larger than the other, as shown in the image. Both eyes sit high on top of the face and touch each other.

Large Eye

1. Rnd 1: With Yarn B, MR, 6 sc. 6 sts
2. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc around. 18 sts
4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc around. 24 sts
5. Rnd 5-7: sc around. 24 sts
6. Rnd 8: sc 2, dec around. 18 sts
7. Rnd 9: sc 1, dec around. 12 sts

Insert one 6 mm black safety eye between Rnds 5 and 6, slightly toward the inner side. Stuff firmly. FO, leaving a long tail.

Small Eye

1. Rnd 1: With Yarn B, MR, 6 sc. 6 sts
2. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc around. 18 sts
4. Rnd 4-6: sc around. 18 sts
5. Rnd 7: sc 1, dec around. 12 sts

Insert the second 6 mm black safety eye between Rnds 4 and 5, slightly toward the inner side. Stuff firmly. FO, leaving a long tail.

Sew both eyes to the top of the green head. The larger eye should sit on the viewer’s left, the smaller on the viewer’s right. Let them lean forward slightly for the funny surprised expression.

Antennae

Cut two pieces of black pipe cleaner or floral wire, each about 5 inches long. Wrap each piece tightly with black yarn or embroidery floss. Leave about 1 inch at the lower end uncovered for insertion.

For the fuzzy tips, wrap black yarn around two fingers 8 times. Tie the center tightly, trim the loops, and brush lightly to make a small bristle tuft. Attach one tuft to the top of each antenna.

Insert the antennae behind the eyes on the top of the head. Angle them outward, with one standing more upright and the other leaning to the side. Secure with several stitches through the head.

Neck

Use Yarn A. The neck is thin and long enough to show between the head and overalls.

1. Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. 6 sts
2. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts
3. Rnd 3-11: sc around. 12 sts

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Stuff firmly. FO with a long tail. Sew the neck under the center of the head. Keep it vertical so the head sits tall and slightly tilted forward.

Body

Use Yarn A. The body is slim, hidden mostly under the blue overalls, but it gives the doll its long narrow shape.

1. Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. 6 sts
2. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc around. 18 sts
4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc around. 24 sts
5. Rnd 5-8: sc around. 24 sts
6. Rnd 9: sc 6, dec, sc 10, dec, sc 4. 22 sts
7. Rnd 10-12: sc around. 22 sts
8. Rnd 13: sc 5, dec, sc 9, dec, sc 4. 20 sts
9. Rnd 14-16: sc around. 20 sts
10. Rnd 17: sc 4, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 4. 18 sts
11. Rnd 18-20: sc around. 18 sts

Stuff the body firmly, keeping it long and narrow. Sew the top of the body to the bottom of the neck. The body should sit straight below the head.

Arms

Make two long green arms. They are skinny, slightly curved, and hang downward from the shoulders. Add wire if you want them to hold a pose.

1. Rnd 1: With Yarn A, MR, 5 sc. 5 sts
2. Rnd 2: inc around. 10 sts
3. Rnd 3-5: sc around. 10 sts
4. Rnd 6: dec, sc 8. 9 sts
5. Rnd 7-27: sc around. 9 sts
6. Rnd 28: sc 1, dec, sc 6. 8 sts
7. Rnd 29-33: sc around. 8 sts

Stuff lightly. Flatten the top opening and sc through both layers with 4 sc. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Three-Finger Hands

Attach green yarn to the end of each arm.

• Finger 1: Ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 3 back to hand.
• Finger 2: Ch 6, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 4 back to hand.
• Finger 3: Ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 3 back to hand.

Secure the fingers with small stitches so they spread like the image. Sew the arms to the sides of the upper body, just below the shirt sleeves.

Legs

Make two long green legs. The legs are thin and straight, visible below the short overalls.

1. Rnd 1: With Yarn A, MR, 6 sc. 6 sts
2. Rnd 2: sc 1, inc around. 9 sts
3. Rnd 3-30: sc around. 9 sts

Stuff lightly or insert thin wire wrapped with fiberfill. FO the first leg. Do not FO the second leg if you prefer to join them directly to the body, but for this design, sew the legs separately under the overalls so they stay thin and dangling.

Feet

Make two small green feet, slightly oval and wider at the front.

1. Rnd 1: Ch 6. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch. Work on other side, sc 3, inc. 12 sts
2. Rnd 2: inc, sc 3, inc 3 times, sc 3, inc 2 times. 18 sts
3. Rnd 3: BLO sc around. 18 sts
4. Rnd 4: sc 5, dec 4 times, sc 5. 14 sts
5. Rnd 5: sc 4, dec 3 times, sc 4. 11 sts

Stuff lightly. Sew each foot to the bottom of a leg with the toes pointing outward a little.

White and Green Striped Shirt

The shirt is visible at the shoulders and upper chest. It has white sleeves with green stripes and a small striped front panel above the overalls.

Shirt Chest Band

Use Yarn B.

1. Row 1: Ch 25, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 24 sts
2. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across in white. 24 sts
3. Row 3: Change to Yarn A, ch 1, turn, sc across. 24 sts
4. Row 4: Change to Yarn B, ch 1, turn, sc across. 24 sts
5. Row 5: Change to Yarn A, ch 1, turn, sc across. 24 sts
6. Row 6: Change to Yarn B, ch 1, turn, sc across. 24 sts

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Wrap this band around the upper body below the neck. Sew the back edges together. Keep the green stripes horizontal.

Short Sleeves

Make two.

1. Rnd 1: With Yarn B, ch 14, join with sl st to form a ring. Sc around. 14 sts
2. Rnd 2: With Yarn A, sc around. 14 sts
3. Rnd 3: With Yarn B, sc around. 14 sts
4. Rnd 4: With Yarn B, sc around. 14 sts

FO. Slide each sleeve over the top of an arm before sewing the arm to the body. Sew the top of the sleeve to the shoulder area.

Blue Denim Overalls

The overalls are worked as two short legs joined into a bib body. They should look like soft blue denim with rolled cuffs, a front pocket, straps, and tan buttons.

Overall Shorts Legs

Make two using Yarn C, denim blue.

1. Rnd 1: Ch 18, join with sl st. Sc around. 18 sts
2. Rnd 2-6: sc around. 18 sts
3. Rnd 7: With Yarn D, BLO sc around for cuff ridge. 18 sts
4. Rnd 8: sc around with Yarn D. FO. 18 sts

Make the second shorts leg the same way but do not cut the yarn after Rnd 8 if joining immediately.

Join the Overalls

1. Place both short legs side by side. With Yarn C, sc 18 around the first leg, ch 2 for the crotch gap, sc 18 around the second leg, ch 2. 40 sts
2. Rnd 2: sc around all 40 sts, working into the ch spaces. 40 sts
3. Rnd 3: sc 9, dec, sc 18, dec, sc 9. 38 sts
4. Rnd 4-7: sc around. 38 sts
5. Rnd 8: sc 8, dec, sc 17, dec, sc 9. 36 sts
6. Rnd 9-11: sc around. 36 sts
7. Rnd 12: sc 7, dec, sc 16, dec, sc 9. 34 sts
8. Rnd 13: sc around. 34 sts

FO and leave a long tail. Pull the overalls up over the legs and lower body. Sew the waistband to the body with small hidden stitches so the shorts do not slide down.

Front Bib

Use Yarn C. Work directly onto the front center of the waistband or make separately and sew on.

1. Row 1: Attach yarn at the front waistband and sc 14 across the center front. 14 sts
2. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 14 sts
3. Row 3: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 10, dec. 12 sts
4. Row 4-7: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 12 sts
5. Row 8: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 8, dec. 10 sts

FO. Sew the side edges of the bib neatly to the shirt chest band.

Overall Straps

Make two straps using Yarn C.

1. Ch 24, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 23 sts
2. Ch 1, turn, sc across. 23 sts

Sew one end of each strap to the back waistband. Cross them slightly or keep them straight over the shoulders. Sew the front ends to the top corners of the bib. Add one small tan button to each front strap point.

Front Pocket

Use Yarn C.

1. Row 1: Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 9 sts
2. Row 2-5: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 9 sts
3. Row 6: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 5, dec. 7 sts

With Yarn D, sc around the pocket edge. Sew the pocket to the lower left side of the overalls. Embroider small red, orange, and green garden shapes peeking from the pocket.

Tiny Pocket Flowers and Vegetables

Use scrap yarn and a 1.75 mm hook.

• Red flower: MR, ch 2, 2 hdc, sl st, repeat 4 times in ring. Pull tight and sew to pocket.
• Yellow flower: MR, ch 2, hdc, ch 2, sl st, repeat 5 times. Add a red center stitch.
• Orange carrot: Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch, sc 2, sl st. Add two green ch-3 leaves at top.
• Green sprout: Ch 4, sl st back, ch 3, sl st back, sew beside flowers.

Keep all pocket decorations tiny. They should look like miniature garden treasures tucked into the blue front pocket.

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Black Mesh Wings

The wings are black, open, and delicate. They sit behind the body, longer than the overalls, with an oval insect-wing shape.

Wing Frame

Make two. Use black pipe cleaner, floral wire, or tightly chained black yarn.

• Cut a 9 inch piece of black wire for each wing.
• Shape each piece into a long teardrop oval about 4 inches tall and 1.5 inches wide.
• Twist the lower ends together to form a small stem.
• Wrap the frame with black yarn using tight whip stitches.

Crochet Wing Veins

Using Yarn G, make the inner lines.

• Main vein: Ch 24, sl st back along the chain. Sew from the base to the top of the wing.
• Side vein 1: Ch 12, sl st back. Sew diagonally from the main vein to the outer edge.
• Side vein 2: Ch 10, sl st back. Sew diagonally lower than the first.
• Side vein 3: Ch 8, sl st back. Sew near the bottom.

Sew both wings to the back of the body under the shoulder line. Let them angle outward and downward. The black wing outline should remain visible beside the overalls.

Straw Garden Hat

The hat sits beside the doll in the image, but you can also place it on the head if desired. It has a flat round crown, wide brim, and floral ribbon.

Hat Crown

1. Rnd 1: With Yarn E, MR, 6 sc. 6 sts
2. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc around. 18 sts
4. Rnd 4: sc 2, inc around. 24 sts
5. Rnd 5: sc 3, inc around. 30 sts
6. Rnd 6: BLO sc around. 30 sts
7. Rnd 7-9: sc around. 30 sts

Hat Brim

1. Rnd 10: FLO sc 2, inc around. 40 sts
2. Rnd 11: sc 3, inc around. 50 sts
3. Rnd 12: sc 4, inc around. 60 sts
4. Rnd 13: sc around. 60 sts
5. Rnd 14: crab stitch or reverse sc around for a firm edge. FO.

Use pink, blue, and green scrap yarn to embroider a thin floral ribbon around the crown. Add a few tiny red and yellow flower stitches on the ribbon.

Watering Can Shoulder Bag

The small tan watering can hangs across the body on a diagonal strap. It rests near the right side of the overalls.

Can Body

1. Rnd 1: With Yarn E, MR, 6 sc. 6 sts
2. Rnd 2: inc around. 12 sts
3. Rnd 3: sc 1, inc around. 18 sts
4. Rnd 4-7: sc around. 18 sts
5. Rnd 8: sc 1, dec around. 12 sts

Stuff very lightly so it stays small and rounded. FO and close.

Can Spout

1. Rnd 1: With Yarn E, MR, 5 sc. 5 sts
2. Rnd 2-5: sc around. 5 sts
3. Rnd 6: inc, sc 4. 6 sts

FO. Sew the spout to the side of the can, pointing slightly upward.

Can Handle

Ch 14 with Yarn E. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. FO. Curve into a handle and sew both ends to the back side of the watering can.

Shoulder Strap

With Yarn E, ch 46. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. FO. Sew one end of the strap near the left shoulder and let it cross the chest diagonally. Sew the watering can to the lower right side of the strap.

Add one tiny red flower to the watering can: MR, ch 2, hdc, ch 2, sl st, repeat 5 times. Use green embroidery stitches for leaves.

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Sandals

The sandals have tan oval soles, brown straps, and little green leaf decorations. Make two.

Sandal Sole

1. Rnd 1: With Yarn E, ch 8. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch. Work on other side, sc 5, inc. 16 sts
2. Rnd 2: inc, sc 5, inc 3 times, sc 5, inc 2 times. 22 sts
3. Rnd 3: sc around. 22 sts

FO. Sew one sole under each green foot.

Brown Straps

• Toe strap: With Yarn F, ch 8, sew across the front of the foot.
• Diagonal strap 1: Ch 11, sew from inner front sole to outer ankle side.
• Diagonal strap 2: Ch 11, sew from outer front sole to inner ankle side.

Add one tiny green leaf to each sandal: Ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch, sc, hdc, sl st. Sew the leaf near the top of the brown straps.

Garden Shovel

The small shovel rests beside the doll. It has a brown handle and gray rounded blade.

Handle

1. Rnd 1: With Yarn F, MR, 6 sc. 6 sts
2. Rnd 2-14: sc around. 6 sts

Stuff lightly with a thin strand of fiberfill or insert a small wire. FO.

Shovel Blade

1. Row 1: With Yarn H, ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. 6 sts
2. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 6 sts
3. Row 3: Ch 1, turn, inc, sc 4, inc. 8 sts
4. Row 4-6: Ch 1, turn, sc across. 8 sts
5. Row 7: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 4, dec. 6 sts
6. Row 8: Ch 1, turn, dec, sc 2, dec. 4 sts

Work sc around the blade edge. FO. Sew the handle to the bottom center of the blade.

Garden Rake

The rake has a brown handle and a white forked top with four prongs.

Rake Handle

1. Rnd 1: With Yarn F, MR, 6 sc. 6 sts
2. Rnd 2-15: sc around. 6 sts

FO after stuffing lightly.

Rake Head

With Yarn B, ch 12. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. FO. This is the top bar.

• Prong 1: Attach white yarn to the first stitch, ch 7, sl st back down the chain.
• Prong 2: Attach to stitch 4, ch 7, sl st back down.
• Prong 3: Attach to stitch 7, ch 7, sl st back down.
• Prong 4: Attach to stitch 10, ch 7, sl st back down.

Sew the center of the rake head to the brown handle. Keep the prongs spread slightly like a small hand-shaped garden rake.

Optional Red Chest Button

The image shows a small bright detail at the center of the overalls. Use red yarn to make a tiny bobble.

1. MR, 5 sc in ring.
2. Sl st to first sc and pull tight.
3. Sew to the center front of the striped shirt, just above the bib.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Sew the neck firmly to the body first, then attach the head to the neck. Use many stitches so the large head does not wobble.
2. Sew the smile panel across the front of the head. Curve the corners upward for the wide grin.
3. Sew the proboscis above the smile, centered but angled down to the left. Shape it gently with your fingers.
4. Attach the eyes on top of the head. They should touch each other and lean forward slightly.
5. Add the black antennae behind the eyes. Secure them from the inside or with tight stitches at the base.
6. Sew arms to the sides under the sleeves. Let the hands point slightly outward.
7. Sew legs under the shorts and attach the sandals to the feet.
8. Place the overalls over the body. Sew the waistband, bib, straps, buttons, pocket, and tiny flowers in place.
9. Attach the black wings to the back. Angle them outward so the outline is visible from the front.
10. Sew the watering can strap diagonally across the chest and secure the tiny watering can near the hip.

Care Notes

• Spot clean with cool water and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if the doll contains wire, pipe cleaners, buttons, or glued details.
• Press gently with a towel and reshape the proboscis, wings, arms, and legs while damp.
• Let the doll air dry flat in a shaded place.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is wide and green with a long pointed proboscis.
• The eyes are large, white, uneven in size, and placed high on the head.
• The smile is white with a black tooth grid.
• The antennae are black with fuzzy tips.
• The overalls are blue with short legs, rolled cuffs, straps, buttons, and a decorated pocket.
• The wings are black, open, and mesh-like behind the body.
• The sandals have tan soles, brown straps, and green leaf accents.
• The hat, shovel, rake, and watering can match the garden theme.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the finished mosquito gardener away from direct sunlight so the bright green yarn and blue overalls stay vivid. Keep it in a dry place, especially if wire was used inside the antennae, wings, arms, legs, or proboscis.

To remove dust, use a soft clean brush and move gently over the eyes, teeth panel, wings, and pocket flowers. Avoid pulling the antennae or tiny garden details. For long-term display, place the doll flat or supported so the neck and proboscis do not bend out of shape.

If gifting this doll to a child, replace safety eyes, buttons, wire, and pipe cleaners with embroidered details and soft crocheted parts. Small accessories should be firmly sewn down or omitted for very young children.