Crochet Tutorial: Picnic Garden Mouse – Free Crochet Pattern

This cheerful picnic garden mouse is a detailed amigurumi doll with oversized pink ears, a bright smiling face, blue overalls, a white shirt, red sandals, a straw hat, a butterfly hair accent, and a small picnic basket filled with tiny crochet foods. The design is worked with firm amigurumi stitches, shaped muzzle cheeks, embroidered whiskers, layered clothing, and carefully sewn accessories to match the playful outdoor picnic look in the image.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern creates a standing mouse doll with a rounded head, slim arms, short legs, large circular ears, a tan muzzle, expressive eyes, and a wide open smile. The body is dressed in blue crochet overalls with shoulder straps, red buttons, gingham-style patches, a white short-sleeve shirt, and red flower sandals.

The finished doll is designed to look like a soft handmade picnic companion. The basket, bread, cheese, grapes, rolled blanket, hat, and butterfly are made separately, then sewn or displayed with the mouse. Use tight tension throughout so the stuffing does not show through the stitches.

Finished Size

• Finished height: About 12 to 13 inches tall when made with the listed yarn and hook.
• Head width including ears: About 9 to 10 inches.
• Body width: About 4 inches across the overalls.
• Basket width: About 3 inches.
• Hat width: About 4.75 inches across the brim.

Skill Level

Intermediate amigurumi. The stitches are simple, but the project includes many small shaped parts, layered accessories, color changes, sewing, embroidery, and facial placement. A confident beginner can make it by working slowly and using stitch markers for every round.

Materials

• Worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn in warm brown for the head, arms, legs, and tail.
• Worsted weight yarn in light tan for the muzzle, cheeks, soles, basket, and hat.
• Worsted weight yarn in pink for the inner ears.
• Worsted weight yarn in white for eyes, shirt, sleeve edges, sandal flowers, and tiny food details.
• Worsted weight yarn in blue for the overalls.
• Worsted weight yarn in red for sandal straps, hat band, basket cloth trim, tongue, and buttons.
• Small amounts of black yarn or embroidery thread for pupils, nose, mouth line, eyebrows, and whiskers.
• Small amounts of yellow, purple, green, cream, orange, and burgundy yarn for picnic foods and butterfly.
• 3.0 mm crochet hook for main amigurumi parts.
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for small details, patches, flowers, butterfly, and food pieces.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Scissors.
• Sewing pins.
• Optional: thin black craft wire or black embroidery thread stiffened with fabric glue for long whiskers.
• Optional: small red buttons, 8 to 10 mm, or crochet buttons made with red yarn.

Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: increase, 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible decrease over 2 stitches
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st: stitch
• sts: stitches
• FO: fasten off
• R: round or row

Gauge and Stitch Texture

For the main doll, 6 sc and 6 rounds should measure about 1 inch when worked firmly with a 3.0 mm hook. The stitches should look compact and slightly raised, giving the same dense amigurumi texture shown in the image.

For clothing and accessories, use the same hook unless the piece needs to be thinner. Use a 2.5 mm hook for small patches, flowers, butterfly wings, and tiny foods. Do not crochet loosely, because the face and clothing need clean edges.

Important Construction Notes

• Work most doll pieces in continuous spiral rounds unless the pattern says to join.
• Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round.
• Stuff the head firmly, the body medium-firm, and the arms lightly.
• The face is built with layered crochet shapes, not only embroidery.
• The big ears are flattened circles sewn at a slight outward angle.
• The overalls are crocheted as a removable-looking but sewn-on garment for stability.
• Pin every facial piece before sewing. Small placement changes will change the expression.

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Head

Use warm brown yarn and a 3.0 mm hook. The head is round with a slightly wider cheek area. Stuff firmly as you go, especially before the final decreases.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat 6 times. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat 6 times. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc; repeat 6 times. 42 sts.
8. R8: sc 6, inc; repeat 6 times. 48 sts.
9. R9: sc 7, inc; repeat 6 times. 54 sts.
10. R10: sc 8, inc; repeat 6 times. 60 sts.
11. R11-R18: sc around. 60 sts for 8 rounds.
12. R19: sc 18, inc, sc 22, inc, sc 18. 62 sts.
13. R20-R22: sc around. 62 sts for 3 rounds.
14. R23: sc 18, dec, sc 22, dec, sc 18. 60 sts.
15. R24: sc 8, dec; repeat 6 times. 54 sts.
16. R25: sc 7, dec; repeat 6 times. 48 sts.
17. R26: sc 6, dec; repeat 6 times. 42 sts.
18. R27: sc 5, dec; repeat 6 times. 36 sts.
19. R28: sc 4, dec; repeat 6 times. 30 sts.
20. R29: sc 3, dec; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
21. R30: sc 2, dec; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.

Stuff the head firmly until the shape is smooth and round. Leave the bottom opening slightly flexible so the head can sit securely on the neck. FO with a long tail for sewing.

Body Base

The body is mostly hidden under the white shirt and blue overalls, but the shape must support the outfit. Use warm brown yarn for the inner body base.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat 6 times. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat 6 times. 36 sts.
7. R7-R12: sc around. 36 sts for 6 rounds.
8. R13: sc 10, dec, sc 12, dec, sc 10. 34 sts.
9. R14-R16: sc around. 34 sts for 3 rounds.
10. R17: sc 9, dec, sc 12, dec, sc 9. 32 sts.
11. R18-R20: sc around. 32 sts for 3 rounds.
12. R21: sc 6, dec; repeat 4 times. 28 sts.
13. R22-R23: sc around. 28 sts.
14. R24: sc 5, dec; repeat 4 times. 24 sts.

Stuff the body medium-firm. FO with a long tail. The top should be narrow enough to sit under the head, while the lower body stays rounded for the overalls.

Neck Connector

Use warm brown yarn. This short connector keeps the large head upright.

1. R1: Ch 18, join with sl st to form a ring. Make sure it is not twisted.
2. R2-R5: sc around. 18 sts for 4 rounds.

Stuff lightly. Sew one end inside the head opening and the other end onto the top center of the body. The head should face forward with the smile centered above the chest.

Large Outer Ears

Make 2 with warm brown yarn. These are large round ears with a slightly oval shape. They are sewn flat against the sides of the head and tilt outward like open circles.

1. R1: 8 sc in MR. 8 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 16 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 8 times. 24 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 8 times. 32 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat 8 times. 40 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat 8 times. 48 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc; repeat 8 times. 56 sts.
8. R8: sc around. 56 sts.
9. R9: sc 6, inc; repeat 8 times. 64 sts.
10. R10: sc around. 64 sts.

FO and leave a long sewing tail. Do not stuff. Flatten each ear neatly. The outer brown border should remain visible around the pink inner ear.

Pink Inner Ears

Make 2 with pink yarn and a 3.0 mm hook. The inner ears are slightly smaller than the brown ears, leaving a brown rim around the edge.

1. R1: 8 sc in MR. 8 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 16 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 8 times. 24 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 8 times. 32 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat 8 times. 40 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat 8 times. 48 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc; repeat 8 times. 56 sts.
8. R8: sc around. 56 sts.

FO, leaving a sewing tail. Sew each pink circle onto the center of one brown ear. Keep the pink circle about 1 round inside the brown edge. Add one extra row of surface sl st in warm brown along the outer edge if you want a raised rim.

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Ear Placement

Pin the ears to the head between R10 and R24. The inner lower edge should sit near the cheek area, while the top edge rises above the head. Tilt each ear outward at about a 30-degree angle. Sew through both layers several times so the ears stand firmly but remain flat.

Small Hair Tuft

Use warm brown yarn. The top hair tuft has three small curved strands.

• Join yarn at the top center of the head around R4.
• Ch 7, sl st in the second ch from hook and in each remaining ch, sl st back into the head.
• Ch 6, sl st in the second ch from hook and across, sl st into the same area.
• Ch 5, sl st in the second ch from hook and across, sl st into the head.
• FO and weave tails inside the head.

Muzzle Base

The tan muzzle is built as one wide oval that covers the lower front of the face. Use light tan yarn and a 3.0 mm hook.

1. R1: Ch 9. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch. Work along other side of chain, sc 6, inc in last ch. 18 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 6, inc 3 times, sc 6, inc 2 times. 24 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 6, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 6, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 32 sts.
4. R4: sc around. 32 sts.
5. R5: sc 8, hdc 4, dc 4, hdc 4, sc 12. 32 sts.

FO with a long tail. Lightly stuff only the center, not the edges. Pin the muzzle across the lower face from R18 to R25. The top edge should sit below the eyes, and the lower edge should frame the open mouth.

Puffy Cheeks

Make 2 with light tan yarn. These rounded cheek pads create the smiling, raised muzzle shape.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
4. R4-R5: sc around. 18 sts.
5. R6: sc 1, dec; repeat 6 times. 12 sts.

Stuff lightly and FO with a long tail. Sew one cheek on each side of the muzzle, angled upward slightly. The two cheeks should touch at the center under the nose, creating a soft heart-like muzzle shape.

Eyes

Make 2 white oval eyes with white yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. The eyes are tall ovals placed close together above the muzzle.

1. R1: Ch 7. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch. Work along other side, sc 4, inc in last ch. 14 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc 2 times. 20 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 4, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 4, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 28 sts.
4. R4: sc around. 28 sts.

FO with a long sewing tail. Sew the eyes vertically between R12 and R20 of the head. Leave only 1 to 2 stitches between the eyes at the center. The bottom of each eye should touch or slightly overlap the top of the muzzle.

Black Pupils

Make 2 with black yarn or black embroidery thread. Use a 2.5 mm hook.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: sc 1, inc; repeat 3 times. 9 sts.

FO and sew one pupil onto the lower inner area of each white eye. Place the pupils slightly low and close to the center to create the cheerful expression.

Nose

Use black yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. The nose is a small rounded triangle placed at the center where the cheeks meet.

1. R1: Ch 5.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 4, ch 1, turn.
3. R3: dec, dec, ch 1, turn. 2 sts.
4. R4: dec. 1 st.

Sc evenly around the triangle, placing 2 sc in each corner. FO with a long tail. Sew the nose to the upper center of the cheek area. Embroider a short vertical black line from the bottom of the nose to the top of the mouth.

Open Smile and Tongue

The mouth is a black curved shape under the muzzle, with a red tongue inside. Use black yarn first.

Black Mouth Shape

1. R1: Ch 9. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 8, ch 1, turn.
2. R2: dec, sc 4, dec, ch 1, turn. 6 sts.
3. R3: dec, sc 2, dec. 4 sts.

FO with a long tail. Sew this black shape under the tan muzzle, centered between the cheeks. Curve the top edge slightly upward at both corners while sewing.

Red Tongue

1. R1: With red yarn, ch 5.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 4, ch 1, turn.
3. R3: sc 1, hdc 2, sc 1.

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FO and sew the tongue inside the lower half of the black mouth. Let a thin black border remain visible around it.

Eyebrows, Smile Lines, and Whiskers

• With black embroidery thread, stitch one curved eyebrow above each eye between R9 and R11.
• Use warm brown yarn to embroider two short cheek curves on each side of the face near the ears.
• For whiskers, stitch or attach three long black lines on each side of the muzzle.
• Place one whisker line level with the nose, one angled upward, and one angled slightly downward.
• If using craft wire, cut 6 pieces about 3.5 inches long, bend the tips inward, and secure them through the muzzle with strong knots hidden inside the cheek stitches.

Arms

Make 2 with warm brown yarn. The arms are slim and slightly tapered, with a simple mitten-style hand.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3-R5: sc around. 12 sts.
4. R6: bobble stitch using 4 dc in next st for thumb, sc 11. 12 sts.
5. R7: sc around. 12 sts.
6. R8: sc 4, dec, sc 4, dec. 10 sts.
7. R9-R21: sc around. 10 sts for 13 rounds.

Stuff the hand and lower arm lightly. Leave the top flat and unstuffed for easier sewing. FO with a long tail. Sew the arms to the sides of the body at R20, just below the shirt sleeves. Angle them downward so the hands rest beside the overalls.

Legs

Make 2 with warm brown yarn. The legs show below the overalls and end in red sandals.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
4. R4: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
5. R5-R8: sc around. 18 sts.
6. R9: sc 4, dec; repeat 3 times. 15 sts.
7. R10-R18: sc around. 15 sts for 9 rounds.

Stuff each leg firmly at the foot and medium-firm through the ankle. FO the first leg. Do not FO the second leg if you prefer joining directly to the body. For this pattern, sew both legs separately under the lower body, spaced 3 stitches apart.

White Shirt

The shirt is worked as a short garment layer around the upper body. Use white yarn and a 3.0 mm hook. It should sit under the overalls and show at the chest and sleeves.

1. R1: Ch 36, join with sl st. 36 sts.
2. R2: sc around. 36 sts.
3. R3: sc 5, inc; repeat 6 times. 42 sts.
4. R4-R7: sc around. 42 sts.
5. R8: sc 10, ch 8, skip 5 sts, sc 12, ch 8, skip 5 sts, sc 10. 40 working sts including chains.
6. R9: sc around, placing 8 sc in each sleeve chain space. 40 sts.
7. R10-R12: sc around. 40 sts.
8. R13: sl st around for a clean lower shirt edge.

Slide the shirt over the body before attaching the head if possible. If the head is already attached, wrap the shirt around the body and seam the back neatly. The white sleeves should sit over the top of each arm.

Short Sleeves

Join white yarn to one armhole. Work 14 sc evenly around the opening. Crochet 3 rounds of sc. Finish with 1 round of sl st. Repeat for the second sleeve. The sleeve should cover the top of the brown arm like a short white T-shirt sleeve.

Blue Overalls

The overalls are bright blue with a bib front, rounded shorts legs, shoulder straps, red buttons, and two red gingham-style patches. Use blue yarn and a 3.0 mm hook.

Overall Shorts Base

1. R1: Ch 40, join with sl st to form a ring. 40 sts.
2. R2-R5: sc around. 40 sts for 4 rounds.
3. R6: sc 9, inc, sc 20, inc, sc 9. 42 sts.
4. R7-R10: sc around. 42 sts for 4 rounds.
5. R11: sc 10, ch 3, skip 1 st, sc 20, ch 3, skip 1 st, sc 10. 46 working sts including chains.

Now divide for the two short legs. Flatten the piece and mark the center front and center back. Each leg opening should have 22 stitches.

Left Short Leg

1. R1: Join blue yarn to one leg opening and sc 22 around.
2. R2-R4: sc around. 22 sts.
3. R5: BLO sc around. 22 sts.
4. R6: sl st around for cuff edge. 22 sts.

Right Short Leg

Repeat the same instructions for the second leg opening. Weave in all tails inside the overalls.

Overall Bib

Join blue yarn at the center front top edge of the shorts. Work in rows.

1. Row 1: sc 16 across the front center, ch 1, turn.
2. Row 2: sc across. 16 sts.
3. Row 3: dec, sc 12, dec. 14 sts.
4. Row 4-8: sc across. 14 sts for 5 rows.
5. Row 9: sc around the bib edge, placing 2 sc in each upper corner.

FO and weave in the end. The bib should cover the center front of the white shirt and reach just below the neckline.

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Shoulder Straps

Make 2 with blue yarn.

1. Row 1: Ch 22.
2. Row 2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 21.
3. Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc 21.

FO with a long tail. Sew each strap to the upper back waistband of the overalls. Bring the straps over the shoulders and sew them to the upper corners of the bib. Keep them straight and slightly raised from the shirt.

Red Buttons

Make 2 with red yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR, sl st to first sc.

FO with a long tail. Sew one button to each top corner of the bib where the strap meets the front. Add a tiny white stitch across each button for shine.

Gingham-Style Overall Patches

The image shows red-and-white picnic cloth patches on the overalls. Make two small red base squares and embroider white crossing lines.

Large Patch

Use red yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

1. Row 1: Ch 8. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7, ch 1, turn.
2. Row 2-6: sc 7, ch 1, turn.
3. Row 7: sc 7.

FO. With white thread, embroider 3 vertical lines and 3 horizontal lines across the square. Sew the patch to the right lower side of the overalls at a slight angle.

Small Patch

1. Row 1: Ch 6. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, ch 1, turn.
2. Row 2-5: sc 5, ch 1, turn.
3. Row 6: sc 5.

FO. Embroider white crossing lines. Sew this patch to the left lower side of the overalls, slightly lower than the larger patch.

Sandals

The sandals are red with tan soles, open toes, brown toe bumps, and small white flowers. Make 2 sandals.

Tan Sole

Use light tan yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

1. R1: Ch 8. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch. Work along other side, sc 5, inc in last ch. 16 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 5, inc 3 times, sc 5, inc 2 times. 22 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 30 sts.
4. R4: BLO sc around. 30 sts.

FO. Sew the sole to the bottom of the brown foot. The wider end should sit under the toes.

Red Sandal Strap

Join red yarn to one side of the sole near the toe area. Ch 9 across the top of the foot and sl st to the opposite side. Turn and work 9 sc back across the chain. Sl st into the sole and FO. Repeat for the second sandal.

Toe Bumps

For each foot, embroider or crochet three small brown toe bumps at the front opening. To crochet them, join warm brown yarn, make 3 small bobble stitches across the toe line, and fasten securely.

White Flower on Sandal

Make 2 tiny flowers with white yarn and yellow centers.

• With yellow yarn, make 5 sc in MR, sl st to close.
• Switch to white yarn.
• In each stitch: ch 2, sc in same st, sl st in next st.
• Repeat until 5 small petals are made.

Sew one flower to the outer side of each red sandal strap.

Straw Hat

The straw hat is a flat round accessory shown beside the mouse. Use light tan yarn and a 3.0 mm hook. Work firmly so the brim holds shape.

Hat Crown

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat 6 times. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat 6 times. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc; repeat 6 times. 42 sts.
8. R8: BLO sc around. 42 sts.
9. R9-R13: sc around. 42 sts.

Hat Brim

1. R14: FLO sc 6, inc; repeat 6 times. 48 sts.
2. R15: sc 7, inc; repeat 6 times. 54 sts.
3. R16: sc 8, inc; repeat 6 times. 60 sts.
4. R17: sc 9, inc; repeat 6 times. 66 sts.
5. R18: sc 10, inc; repeat 6 times. 72 sts.
6. R19: sc around. 72 sts.
7. R20: reverse sc around for a raised edge, or sl st around if reverse sc feels too difficult.

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FO and weave in ends. To form the red hat band, join red yarn around R13 and surface sl st evenly around the base of the crown. Sew the hat beside the doll or tack it lightly to one hand if desired.

Picnic Basket

The basket is small, round, and tan, with a curved handle and a red gingham cloth peeking out. Use light tan yarn and a 3.0 mm hook.

Basket Bowl

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat 6 times. 30 sts.
6. R6: BLO sc around. 30 sts.
7. R7-R11: sc around. 30 sts for 5 rounds.
8. R12: sc 3, dec; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
9. R13: sl st around for rim. 24 sts.

FO and weave in ends. Stuff lightly only if you want the basket to keep a rounded shape. Leave the top open so the picnic foods can be placed inside.

Basket Handle

Use light tan yarn. Ch 28. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 27. Ch 1, turn, sc 27 again. FO with long tails. Sew each end to opposite sides of the basket rim. Arch the handle upward.

Basket Weave Texture

With tan yarn, surface sl st around R8 and R10 of the basket. Add 6 short vertical surface stitches from rim to base. This creates the woven picnic basket texture visible in the accessory.

Red Picnic Cloth

Use red yarn and white embroidery thread. This small cloth folds over the basket edge.

1. Row 1: Ch 13. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 12, ch 1, turn.
2. Row 2-10: sc 12, ch 1, turn.
3. Row 11: sc 12.

FO. Embroider white vertical and horizontal lines to create a gingham look. Fold one corner outward over the basket rim and tack it with small hidden stitches.

Mini Picnic Foods

Make the tiny foods with a 2.5 mm hook. Stuff only the larger pieces very lightly. The basket should look full, colorful, and playful.

Mini Bread Loaf

Use golden brown yarn.

1. R1: Ch 8. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch. Work along other side, sc 5, inc. 16 sts.
2. R2: sc around. 16 sts.
3. R3: sc 4, hdc 8, sc 4. 16 sts.
4. R4-R6: sc around. 16 sts.
5. R7: dec around until closed.

FO. With cream yarn, embroider three short diagonal slashes on top of the loaf.

Cheese Wedge

Use yellow yarn.

1. Row 1: Ch 7. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 6, ch 1, turn.
2. Row 2: dec, sc 2, dec, ch 1, turn. 4 sts.
3. Row 3: dec, dec, ch 1, turn. 2 sts.
4. Row 4: dec. 1 st.

Make 2 triangles. Sc around both pieces together with yellow yarn, lightly stuffing before closing. Embroider tiny orange dots for cheese holes.

Purple Grapes

Use purple yarn. Make 7 tiny berries.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 10 sts.
3. R3: sc around. 10 sts.
4. R4: dec around until closed.

Sew the berries together in a cluster, with 3 berries on the bottom, 2 in the middle, and 2 at the top. Add two tiny green leaves using ch 5, sl st in second ch, sc, hdc, sl st.

Small Cream Roll

Use cream yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3-R5: sc around. 12 sts.
4. R6: dec around. 6 sts.

FO and close. Embroider a spiral on one side with slightly darker beige yarn.

Rolled Picnic Blanket

Use burgundy or red yarn.

1. Row 1: Ch 12. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 11, ch 1, turn.
2. Row 2-6: sc 11, ch 1, turn.
3. Row 7: sc 11.

FO. Roll tightly from one short edge to the other. Wrap a strand of tan yarn around the roll twice and tie securely. Place it inside the basket behind the food.

Butterfly Hair Accent

The butterfly sits near one ear on top of the head. Use small amounts of pastel yarn: purple, yellow, pink, and black.

Butterfly Wings

Make 4 small wings with a 2.5 mm hook.

• For each upper wing: MR, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, sl st into ring. Pull tight and FO.
• For each lower wing: MR, ch 2, 2 hdc, ch 2, sl st into ring. Pull tight and FO.

Sew two wings on each side of a small black body. Use different pastel colors for a bright garden look.

Butterfly Body and Antennae

• With black yarn, ch 6 and sl st back across.
• Sew the wings to the sides of this chain body.
• For antennae, attach two short black threads at the top and knot the ends.
• Sew the butterfly above one ear, slightly tilted, as shown in the image.

Optional Curled Ear Details

The ear area in the image includes small curled brown accent lines. Use warm brown yarn and a 2.5 mm hook to make two curls.

• Ch 9.
• Work 2 sc in the second ch from hook and in each remaining chain.
• The strip will curl naturally.
• Sew one curl near the lower inside edge of each ear.

Tail

The tail is mostly hidden by the doll’s seated position, but a simple curved tail can be added behind the overalls. Use warm brown yarn.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. R2-R20: sc around. 5 sts for 19 rounds.

Do not stuff, or insert a soft pipe cleaner if you want it bendable. FO and sew to the back lower body before attaching the overalls permanently.

Assembly Order

1. Sew the neck connector to the body and head.
2. Sew the ears to the sides of the head, making sure they are symmetrical.
3. Sew the pink inner ears onto the brown outer ears if not already attached.
4. Sew the muzzle base to the lower face.
5. Add the puffy cheeks on top of the muzzle base.
6. Sew the eyes above the muzzle and add pupils.
7. Sew the nose, mouth, and tongue in place.
8. Embroider eyebrows, cheek lines, and whiskers.
9. Attach the hair tuft at the top of the head.
10. Dress the body with the white shirt and blue overalls.
11. Sew the arms to the sides under the sleeves.
12. Sew the legs to the lower body and add sandals.
13. Add patches, buttons, straps, and flower details.
14. Make the basket, cloth, food pieces, hat, and butterfly.
15. Pin every accessory before sewing anything permanently.

Detailed Clothing Fit Notes

The shirt should fit close to the body without pulling. If your shirt feels too tight, add 2 extra chains at the beginning and increase the stitch count evenly. If it feels too loose, sew the back seam slightly overlapped so the garment sits neatly under the overalls.

The overalls should cover most of the body from the lower chest to the upper legs. The shorts cuffs should sit above the knees. The bib should be centered, and the straps should travel straight over the shoulders without twisting.

The red-and-white patches should look playful, not perfectly formal. Sew them at slight angles so they resemble handmade picnic cloth patches. This small detail helps match the casual garden picnic style of the doll.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the face from the front before tying off any embroidery. The eyes should be tall and close together. The nose should sit between the cheeks, and the tongue should show clearly inside the black smile. The whiskers should extend beyond the cheeks in long, fine lines.

Shape the ears with your fingers after sewing. The pink centers should face forward. The ears should not fold backward. Add extra stitches at the lower ear edge if the ears feel floppy.

Sew the butterfly near the upper left side of the head. Place the picnic basket near one hand and the straw hat beside the doll, or attach the hat loosely to the table display area if the doll will be used for photography.

Care Notes

• Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if you used wire whiskers, buttons, or glued details.
• Let the doll air dry completely before storing.
• Keep the small picnic foods away from very young children.
• Reshape the ears, hat brim, and basket handle by hand after cleaning.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Both ears are even and firmly sewn.
• The muzzle is centered below the eyes.
• The smile is open, curved, and cleanly stitched.
• The overalls sit straight on the body.
• The red buttons are level on the bib.
• The patches are securely sewn to the shorts.
• The sandals have red straps, tan soles, toe bumps, and flowers.
• The basket includes cloth, bread, cheese, grapes, roll, and blanket.
• The straw hat has a red band and flat brim.
• All yarn tails are hidden securely inside the work.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the doll’s shape, avoid soaking it in water. Use a soft cloth to clean the surface, especially around the white shirt, eyes, and tan muzzle. Press gently rather than rubbing, because rubbing can make cotton yarn fuzzy.

Store the doll in a dry place away from direct sunlight. Strong sunlight may fade the blue overalls, red sandals, and pink ears. If displaying the doll on a shelf, support the head and ears so the stitches do not stretch over time.

For long-term storage, wrap the doll loosely in acid-free tissue or a clean cotton cloth. Keep the picnic foods together in a small pouch so none of the tiny accessories are lost. Before displaying again, fluff the muzzle, straighten the straps, and gently flatten the hat brim.

Finishing Message

Your picnic garden mouse is now complete, with bright overalls, a cheerful face, garden ears, red sandals, a straw hat, and a tiny basket full of handmade crochet picnic treats. Take your time with the facial placement and accessories, because these details create the joyful character shown in the finished design.