Crochet Tutorial: Blue Daisy Garden Poodle Puppy – Free Crochet Pattern

This sweet Blue Daisy Garden Poodle Puppy is a soft amigurumi doll with warm brown fur, curly poodle ears, a rounded muzzle, shiny black eyes, and a neat black embroidered nose. She wears a blue-and-cream daisy granny-square dress, white sandals with tiny blue flowers, a small beige crossbody purse with daisy accents, and matching white-blue daisies tucked into her fluffy curls.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is designed to recreate the pictured garden poodle puppy as closely as possible. The finished doll has a seated body, long dangling legs, rounded paws, slim arms, a broad poodle head, curly ears, a textured curly hair cap, and a flared blue daisy dress made from small joined floral squares.

The puppy is worked mainly in continuous rounds using tight single crochet stitches. The dress uses small square motifs with blue daisy centers, cream borders, and blue edging. Accessories are made separately and sewn on after the main doll is assembled.

• Finished size: about 12 to 13 inches tall when seated, depending on yarn and tension.
• Skill level: confident beginner to intermediate.
• Main technique: amigurumi in continuous rounds.
• Dress technique: small floral granny-style crochet squares joined into a skirt.
• Texture technique: loop stitches and small curls for poodle fur.

Materials

• Worsted weight cotton or cotton-acrylic yarn in warm caramel brown for the puppy body.
• Small amount of darker brown yarn for shaded muzzle details if desired.
• Cream or off-white yarn for dress borders, straps, sandals, daisies, and purse flowers.
• Sky blue yarn for dress flowers, hem, sandal flowers, and hair flowers.
• Soft yellow yarn for daisy centers.
• Beige or light tan yarn for the small crossbody purse and sandal soles.
• Black embroidery thread or fine black yarn for nose and mouth.
• Two 10 mm black safety eyes.
• 3.0 mm crochet hook for the main doll.
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for flowers, purse, straps, and small details.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Pins for positioning parts before sewing.
• Scissors.

Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: increase, 2 sc in one stitch
• dec: invisible decrease over 2 stitches
• BLO: back loops only
• FLO: front loops only
• st: stitch
• R: round or row

Gauge and Stitch Style

For the puppy body, use firm amigurumi tension. Your stitches should be close enough that stuffing does not show through. With worsted weight yarn and a 3.0 mm hook, 6 sc and 6 rounds should measure about 1 inch.

The body in the picture has visible, even spiral stitches. Do not use loose tension for the puppy because the face, muzzle, arms, and legs need to hold their rounded shape. The dress may be slightly softer, but the doll itself should be firm.

• Use a smaller hook if gaps appear between stitches.
• Stuff the head firmly, especially around the cheeks and muzzle area.
• Stuff the arms lightly so they hang naturally downward.
• Stuff the legs medium-firm so they sit straight over the bench edge.

Body Color Notes

The puppy in the image is a warm cinnamon-brown poodle with a slightly lighter muzzle impression created by shaping and stitch direction. Use one main brown yarn for the head, body, arms, and legs. The curly ears and head curls use the same brown yarn but are textured with loop stitches.

The dress uses a garden palette: cream background, medium sky blue daisy petals, soft yellow centers, and a blue lower hem. The accessories should stay delicate, with beige for the purse and sandal soles, and white for straps and flowers.

Puppy Head

Work the head in continuous rounds with brown yarn and a 3.0 mm hook. The head should be round and slightly wider than the body. The muzzle will be added separately to create the poodle’s gentle face.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. Do not join. Place marker. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat 6 times. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat 6 times. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc; repeat 6 times. 42 sts.
8. R8: sc 6, inc; repeat 6 times. 48 sts.
9. R9-R16: sc in each st around. 48 sts for 8 rounds.
10. R17: sc 6, dec; repeat 6 times. 42 sts.
11. R18: sc 5, dec; repeat 6 times. 36 sts.

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Insert the safety eyes between R12 and R13, about 8 stitches apart. The eyes should sit slightly above the muzzle area and look forward. Do not place them too low, because the poodle’s forehead needs space for the curly hair cap.

1. R19: sc 4, dec; repeat 6 times. 30 sts.
2. R20: sc 3, dec; repeat 6 times. 24 sts.
3. R21: sc 2, dec; repeat 6 times. 18 sts.

Begin stuffing firmly. Shape the cheeks by pushing stuffing toward the lower front of the face. Keep the top of the head rounded and full, because the curls will be added over it.

1. R22: sc 1, dec; repeat 6 times. 12 sts.
2. R23: dec around. 6 sts.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Close the opening neatly with a yarn needle. The head should measure about 3.25 to 3.5 inches wide.

Rounded Muzzle

The muzzle is oval, raised, and centered below the eyes. It gives the puppy the soft poodle expression seen in the image. Work in brown yarn, but keep the tension slightly looser than the head so the muzzle looks plush.

1. R1: ch 6. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side of the chain: sc 3, inc in last ch. 12 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 3, inc in next 3 sts, sc 3, inc in next 2 sts. 18 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 4, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 4, sc 1, inc, sc 1. 22 sts.
4. R4: sc in each st around. 22 sts.
5. R5: sc 9, dec, dec, sc 9. 20 sts.

Fasten off with a long sewing tail. Lightly stuff the muzzle. Pin it between R13 and R18 of the head, centered between the eyes. The top of the muzzle should sit about one round below the eyes.

Sew the muzzle down with small stitches around the edge. Add a tiny bit more stuffing before closing the final gap if needed. The muzzle should project forward softly, not flatten against the face.

Nose and Mouth Embroidery

Use black embroidery thread or fine black yarn. The nose is rounded triangular, placed at the upper center of the muzzle. The mouth is a short vertical line with two gentle curved lines below.

1. Mark the nose area across R2-R3 of the muzzle, about 5 stitches wide.
2. Embroider a rounded triangle with horizontal satin stitches.
3. Add 2 vertical securing stitches at the center bottom of the nose.
4. Bring the thread down 3 rounds from the nose point to create the mouth line.
5. Make a small curved stitch to the left and another to the right for a soft puppy smile.

Keep the mouth small. The pictured puppy has a calm, sweet expression, so avoid making a large smile. A short black line gives the most accurate result.

Curly Poodle Hair Cap

The top of the head is covered with dense brown curls. These curls sit like a fluffy dome from the forehead to the crown and blend into the ears. You will create the cap by crocheting a separate base, then adding loop stitches or chain curls.

Hair Cap Base

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc; repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8-R9: sc around. 42 sts.

Fasten off with a long tail. Place the cap over the top of the head so it begins around R7 at the forehead and reaches the back of the head. Pin it securely before adding curls.

Curly Texture

For each visible curl, join brown yarn to a stitch on the cap, ch 6, then work 2 sc in the second ch from hook and 2 sc in each remaining ch. Sl st back into the same or next stitch. This creates a tight spiral curl.

• Add 12 curls around the front edge.
• Add 16 curls across the center top.
• Add 10 curls toward the back crown.
• Add extra curls wherever the base shows through.

The curls should be close together and slightly uneven, like the photo. Trim no yarn. Let the curls sit naturally and gently fluff them with your fingers.

Poodle Ears

The ears are large, floppy, rounded, and curly. They hang from the sides of the head just below the hair cap. Each ear should be thick and textured, wider at the lower half, and slightly curved toward the face.

Make 2 Ear Bases

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5-R9: sc around. 24 sts.
6. R10: sc 4, dec; repeat around. 20 sts.
7. R11-R13: sc around. 20 sts.
8. R14: sc 3, dec; repeat around. 16 sts.
9. R15: sc around. 16 sts.

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Do not stuff the ears. Flatten each ear gently. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. The ear should look like a soft oval drop.

Add Ear Curls

Attach brown yarn near the top side of the ear. Make small chain curls over the front surface, using ch 5 or ch 6 for each curl, then work 2 sc in each chain back down. Add about 18 to 22 curls per ear.

Sew the ears to the head between R10 and R16, about 7 stitches away from each eye. Angle the top of each ear slightly backward, then let the lower ear hang beside the cheek. The ears should frame the face and partly touch the shoulders.

Body

The body is simple and seated, with a narrow neck and a rounded lower belly under the dress. It does not need heavy visible shaping because the dress covers most of the torso, but it must be firm enough to hold the head.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR with brown yarn. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7-R12: sc around. 36 sts.
8. R13: sc 4, dec; repeat around. 30 sts.
9. R14-R16: sc around. 30 sts.
10. R17: sc 3, dec; repeat around. 24 sts.
11. R18-R19: sc around. 24 sts.
12. R20: sc 2, dec; repeat around. 18 sts.
13. R21-R22: sc around. 18 sts.

Stuff the body firmly at the lower half and medium-firm at the neck. Fasten off with a long tail for sewing. The neck opening should fit securely beneath the head.

Legs

The legs are long and straight, hanging down from beneath the dress. Each leg is brown with a rounded paw at the bottom. Sandals will be added separately, so keep the feet smooth and oval.

Make 2 Legs

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc around. 18 sts.
5. R5: sc 6, dec 3 times, sc 6. 15 sts.
6. R6: sc 5, dec 2 times, sc 6. 13 sts.
7. R7-R22: sc around. 13 sts.

Stuff the foot firmly. Stuff the leg lightly to medium so it can bend naturally at the seated edge. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Sew the legs to the lower front of the body between R4 and R7, about 5 stitches apart.

The legs should point downward from the seated body. In the image, the feet face forward with sandals visible. Pin both legs first to make sure they are even before sewing.

Arms

The arms are slim, rounded, and hang at the puppy’s sides. They are not posed upward. Each arm tapers slightly near the shoulder and has a softly rounded paw at the end.

Make 2 Arms

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3-R5: sc around. 12 sts.
4. R6: sc 4, dec; repeat twice. 10 sts.
5. R7-R18: sc around. 10 sts.
6. R19: flatten opening and sc 5 through both layers.

Stuff the paw firmly, then stuff the arm very lightly. Sew each arm to the upper body at R18-R20 of the body, just below the neck. Angle the arms downward along the sides of the dress.

Joining Head and Body

Place the head on top of the body with the muzzle facing directly forward. The head should look large and plush compared with the narrow body. Use pins to hold it in place before sewing.

1. Align the body neck opening under the center of the head.
2. Sew around the neck twice using brown yarn.
3. Add stuffing into the neck gap before closing completely.
4. Pull the sewing yarn firmly but not tightly enough to wrinkle the head.
5. Check that the puppy can sit without the head tipping too far forward.

Blue Daisy Dress Structure

The dress is the main visual feature. It has a cream and blue floral granny-square skirt, a cream waistband, thin cream shoulder straps, and a bright blue hem. The skirt flares outward and sits over the puppy’s lap.

The pictured dress is made from visible square panels. For this pattern, make 6 small daisy squares for the lower skirt and 4 smaller daisy panels for the bodice. Join them with cream yarn, then add top and bottom edging.

Large Daisy Square Motif

Make 6 large squares for the skirt. Each square has a yellow center, blue petals, and cream corners. Use a 2.5 mm hook so the squares stay neat.

Make 6

1. Center R1: With yellow yarn, make MR, ch 1, 8 sc into ring. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off. 8 sts.
2. Petal R2: Join blue yarn in any st. Ch 2, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st. Sl st in next st. Repeat around to make 8 small petals. Fasten off.
3. Square R3: Join cream yarn between any 2 petals. Ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 2, 3 dc in same space for first corner. Ch 1, 3 dc between next 2 petals, ch 1. In next space, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc. Repeat until 4 corners are made. Sl st to top of ch 3.
4. R4: Ch 1, sc in each dc and ch-1 space around, working 3 sc in each corner ch-2 space. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

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Each finished square should measure about 2 inches across. The floral center should sit clearly in the middle with a cream frame around it.

Small Bodice Daisy Panel

Make 4 smaller squares for the front and back bodice. These should be slightly tighter and less flared than the skirt squares.

Make 4

1. R1: With yellow, 6 sc in MR. Sl st to join. Fasten off.
2. R2: Join blue. Ch 2, dc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st. Repeat in each st to make 6 petals. Fasten off.
3. R3: Join cream between petals. Ch 2, hdc 2, ch 1, hdc 3 in same space for corner. Ch 1, hdc 3 in next space, ch 1. Repeat around to form a square. Sl st to join.
4. R4: Ch 1, sc evenly around, working 3 sc in each corner. Fasten off.

Joining the Dress Skirt

Lay the 6 large squares in a strip with all flowers facing the same direction. Join them side by side using cream yarn and slip stitches through the back loops. This keeps the joins neat but still visible like the image.

1. Place square 1 and square 2 with wrong sides together.
2. Join cream yarn at the top corner.
3. Sl st through matching back loops across the side edge.
4. Repeat until all 6 squares form one long strip.
5. Join the first and last square to create a ring.

The ring should fit around the puppy’s lower body. If it is too loose, overlap the final join by 2 stitches. If it is too tight, add one row of cream sc around both side edges before joining.

Dress Bodice

Join the 4 smaller bodice panels into a short band. This band sits around the upper body just under the arms. The front should show two small blue daisies, just like the upper dress section in the picture.

1. Join 4 small panels side by side with cream slip stitches.
2. Join the first and last panel to form a ring.
3. Attach cream yarn at the top edge.
4. Top R1: sc evenly around, placing 1 sc in each stitch and 1 sc in each join. Sl st to join.
5. Top R2: ch 1, sc around again. Sl st to join. Fasten off.

Place the bodice ring around the puppy’s body before attaching the skirt. It should sit snugly but not squeeze the body. The arms should remain outside the dress.

Joining Bodice and Skirt

Place the skirt ring below the bodice ring. Use cream yarn to join them together with a round of single crochet. The skirt should flare slightly because it has more stitches than the bodice.

1. Pin the skirt to the lower edge of the bodice at 6 evenly spaced points.
2. Join cream yarn at the back center.
3. Sc through one bodice stitch and one skirt stitch together.
4. When the skirt has extra stitches, work 2 skirt stitches into one bodice stitch every few stitches.
5. Continue around until the dress is one piece.

Try the dress on the puppy. The top edge should sit just below the neck, and the skirt should cover the body and upper legs while allowing the legs to hang freely.

Blue Dress Hem

The bottom edge of the dress has a blue border. It frames the floral squares and gives the skirt the bright blue finish visible in the image.

1. Join blue yarn at the back bottom edge of the skirt.
2. R1: ch 1, sc evenly around the entire lower edge. Sl st to join.
3. R2: ch 1, sc in first st, ch 1, skip 1 st; repeat around for a subtle textured edge. Sl st to join.
4. R3: ch 1, sc in each sc and ch-1 space around. Sl st to join. Fasten off.

Do not make the hem too ruffled. The dress in the picture has a clean lower edge with a gentle curve, not a heavy frill.

Shoulder Straps

The shoulder straps are cream and thin. They run from the front bodice over the shoulders to the back bodice. The straps help the dress look like a sundress.

Make 2

1. With cream yarn, ch 22.
2. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 21 across.
3. Fasten off, leaving sewing tails.

Sew one strap from the front left bodice edge over the left shoulder to the back. Repeat for the right strap. Keep both straps flat and parallel. They should frame the puppy’s neck without covering the arms.

White Sandals

The puppy wears white sandals with beige soles and open fronts. A small blue flower decorates each sandal strap. Make the soles first, then add white straps over the top of each foot.

Beige Soles

Make 2 soles with beige yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

1. R1: ch 8. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch. Work along other side: sc 5, inc in last ch. 16 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 5, inc in next 3 sts, sc 5, inc in next 2 sts. 22 sts.
3. R3: sc around. 22 sts. Sl st to join. Fasten off.

White Sandal Straps

Place one sole under each foot. With white yarn, sew or crochet straps across the top.

• For the toe strap, ch 9, sc back 8, and sew across the front top of the foot.
• For the ankle strap, ch 12, sc back 11, and sew around the lower ankle.
• Secure both straps to the beige sole edges.
• Keep the front of the paw visible through the sandal opening.

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Small Blue Sandal Flowers

Make 2 tiny blue flowers with yellow centers.

1. With yellow, 5 sc in MR. Sl st to join. Fasten off.
2. Join blue in any stitch. Ch 2, hdc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st.
3. Repeat in each stitch to make 5 petals.
4. Fasten off and sew one flower to the outer side of each sandal strap.

Crossbody Purse

The small purse is beige, rectangular, and worn across the puppy’s body with a thin strap. It sits on the right side of the dress and has three small white daisies across the top front.

Purse Body

1. R1: With beige yarn, ch 11. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 10. Ch 1, turn.
2. R2-R9: sc 10 across. Ch 1, turn after each row.
3. Fold the rectangle in half so it measures 10 stitches wide and about 4 rows tall.
4. Sc through both side edges to close the left side.
5. Sc through both side edges to close the right side.
6. Sc around the top opening once. Fasten off.

Purse Flap

1. Join beige yarn to the back top edge.
2. Row 1: sc 10 across. Ch 1, turn.
3. Row 2: sc 10 across. Ch 1, turn.
4. Row 3: dec, sc 6, dec. 8 sts.
5. Fasten off and fold flap over the front.

Purse Strap

With beige yarn, ch 58 for the crossbody strap. Starting in the second ch from hook, sl st in each chain across for a firm cord. Sew one end to the upper left corner of the purse and the other end to the upper right corner.

Place the strap over the puppy’s left shoulder and let the purse rest on the right front side of the skirt. Tack the strap discreetly at the shoulder and side waist so it stays in the same position as the image.

Purse Daisies

Make 3 tiny white daisies for the purse.

1. With yellow yarn, 5 sc in MR. Sl st to join. Fasten off.
2. Join white yarn. Ch 2, hdc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st.
3. Repeat in each of the 5 sts to make 5 petals.
4. Fasten off and sew the daisies in a row across the purse flap.

Hair Daisies

The puppy has small daisies tucked into the curly hair near both ears. Make two flowers, one for each side. The flowers should be white petals with yellow centers and a soft blue edge or blue shadow if desired.

Make 2 Hair Flowers

1. With yellow yarn, make 6 sc in MR. Sl st to join. Fasten off.
2. Join white yarn in any stitch.
3. Ch 2, 2 hdc in same stitch, ch 2, sl st in same stitch.
4. Repeat in each stitch around for 6 petals.
5. Optional: With blue yarn, make tiny sl sts behind 2 petals for a blue accent.
6. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Sew one flower above the left ear and one above the right ear, slightly forward on the hair cap. They should sit on top of the curls, not sink into them.

Optional Garden Flower Pots

The image includes small crocheted flower pots in the background. They are decorative props, not attached to the puppy. You can make them if you want a complete display scene.

Small Pot

1. R1: With terracotta or cream yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
5. R5-R8: sc around. 18 sts.
6. R9: FLO sc around for rim. 18 sts.
7. Fasten off and stuff lightly.

Soil Top

1. With dark brown yarn, 6 sc in MR.
2. Inc around. 12 sts.
3. Sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. Sew the soil circle into the top of the pot.

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Simple Stem Flower

• For the stem, ch 9 with green yarn, then sl st back down the chain.
• For each leaf, ch 5, sc, hdc, dc, hdc back along the chain, then sl st to the stem.
• For the flower, use the same 5-petal daisy method as the purse flowers.
• Sew the stem into the soil top.

Optional Straw Garden Hat

The photo also shows a separate straw-style hat on the bench. This accessory is optional. It is not worn by the puppy in the image, but it completes the garden theme beautifully.

Hat Crown

1. R1: With beige yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: BLO sc around. 24 sts.
6. R6-R10: sc around. 24 sts.

Hat Brim

1. R11: FLO sc 2, inc; repeat around. 32 sts.
2. R12: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 40 sts.
3. R13: sc 4, inc; repeat around. 48 sts.
4. R14: sc around. 48 sts. Fasten off.

Add a narrow decorative band with cream or blue yarn around the base of the crown. Sew tiny embroidered flowers around the band if desired.

Dress Fit and Placement

Dress the puppy before sewing the arms completely if you prefer an easier fit. Slide the dress up from the legs and settle the bodice around the upper torso. The skirt should flare over the lap and stop above the sandals.

• The cream shoulder straps should sit flat over the shoulders.
• The blue hem should be visible along the lower skirt edge.
• The front of the dress should show two upper small daisies and several lower large daisies.
• The purse strap should cross over the bodice without hiding the main front flower details.

If the skirt turns upward, steam lightly without touching the yarn directly. You can also sew two small hidden tacking stitches from the back skirt to the body to keep the dress seated.

Facial Shaping

To make the puppy’s face closer to the image, add gentle eye shaping. Use a long strand of brown yarn and a yarn needle. Insert the needle at the bottom of the head, come out beside the first eye, go back in beside the same eye, and exit at the bottom again.

Pull gently until the eye sinks slightly. Repeat on the second eye. Knot securely under the head where the body will hide the thread. This shaping gives the face a soft, expressive look.

• Do not pull too tightly or the eyes will look harsh.
• Keep both eyes even.
• The muzzle should remain rounded after shaping.
• Add a little stuffing behind the muzzle if it flattens.

Assembly Order

Use this order for the cleanest finish. The puppy has many small details, so pinning before sewing is important. Check the front view after every major piece is attached.

1. Crochet and stuff the head.
2. Add safety eyes and sew on the muzzle.
3. Embroider the nose and mouth.
4. Make the curly hair cap and sew it to the head.
5. Make ears, add curls, and sew to the head.
6. Crochet and stuff body, legs, and arms.
7. Sew legs to the lower body.
8. Sew head to body securely.
9. Fit and attach the dress.
10. Sew arms so they hang over the dress sides.
11. Add sandals, sandal flowers, purse, and hair daisies.
12. Make optional hat and flower pots for display.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

After every part is attached, sit the puppy on a flat surface and check the balance. The legs should hang forward evenly, the arms should fall naturally at the sides, and the head should face straight ahead. Adjust with a few hidden stitches if needed.

Brush the curls lightly with your fingers only. Do not comb them, because the chain curls may stretch. Arrange the hair flowers so they remain visible from the front. The purse should rest on the lower right side of the dress, with its daisies facing outward.

• Secure loose yarn tails inside the body or under the dress.
• Make sure all small flowers are sewn tightly.
• Check that the safety eyes are fully locked.
• Reinforce the neck seam with a second round of sewing.

Care Notes

This doll is best used as a decorative handmade item. Because it has small sewn flowers, a purse strap, sandals, and safety eyes, it is not recommended for children under 3 years old.

• Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if the doll has safety eyes or delicate accessories.
• Let the doll air dry completely.
• Keep away from strong sunlight for long periods to protect the blue and brown yarn colors.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is round, firm, and slightly larger than the body.
• The muzzle is centered and softly raised.
• The black nose is small, rounded, and neatly embroidered.
• The ears are curly, floppy, and even on both sides.
• The hair cap is full of dense brown curls.
• The dress has cream square borders, blue daisy centers, and a blue hem.
• The shoulder straps are cream and sit flat.
• The sandals are white with beige soles and blue flower accents.
• The purse crosses the body and rests on the right side.
• The hair daisies are visible above the ears.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term display, keep the puppy in a dry place away from dust and moisture. If dust collects on the curls, gently tap the doll or use a soft clean brush only on the surface. Avoid pulling the curls or stretching the purse strap.

If the dress becomes wrinkled, reshape it by hand. You may lightly mist the skirt with clean water, pat it into shape, and let it dry flat while the puppy is seated. Do not iron directly on the crochet stitches.

• Store the doll upright or seated to protect the ears and curls.
• Place tissue paper under the skirt if storing in a box.
• Do not place heavy items on top of the doll.
• Check sewn flowers occasionally and tighten them if they loosen.

Your Blue Daisy Garden Poodle Puppy is now complete, with her curly brown poodle fur, sweet embroidered face, blue daisy dress, white garden sandals, tiny flower purse, and soft floral hair accents just like the pictured crochet doll.