Crochet Tutorial: Bugs Bunny – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Tutorial: Bugs Bunny – Free Crochet Pattern

This detailed amigurumi pattern guides you through crocheting the pictured gray-and-white Bugs Bunny doll with tall ears, soft white cheeks, pink nose, striped blue-and-white shirt, denim-style overalls, yellow crossbody carrot bag, straw sunhat with blue ribbon, small flower basket, and loose carrot accessory. The finished toy has a rounded head, slim body, long legs, mitten-style hands, and garden-themed details to match the image closely.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US crochet terms and is worked mostly in continuous spiral rounds. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of every round. The doll is designed with firm amigurumi tension so the stuffing does not show through the stitches.

The finished bunny stands about 12 to 13 inches tall when made with medium weight cotton yarn and a 2.5 mm crochet hook. The ears add height and should stand upright with the help of tight stitching, light stuffing at the base, and optional craft wire.

  • Skill level: Confident beginner to intermediate
  • Main technique: Amigurumi in continuous rounds
  • Finished height: About 12 to 13 inches
  • Gauge: 7 single crochet stitches and 7 rounds measure about 1 inch
  • Construction: Separate head, body, ears, arms, legs, clothing, and accessories sewn together

Materials

  • Medium weight cotton yarn in gray for head, ears, arms, legs, and body
  • White yarn for muzzle, cheeks, gloves, feet, eye whites, shirt stripes, and slipper tops
  • Cream yarn for inner ears and slipper soles
  • Blue yarn in bright royal blue for shirt stripes and hat ribbon
  • Dark denim blue yarn for overalls
  • Yellow yarn for crossbody bag and straw hat
  • Orange yarn for carrot appliques and loose carrot
  • Green yarn for carrot tops and flower leaves
  • Tan yarn for basket
  • Small scraps of pink, purple, yellow, white, and green yarn for flowers
  • Pink yarn or embroidery thread for the nose
  • Black embroidery thread for pupils, mouth, and toe lines
  • Two 8 mm to 10 mm black safety eyes if you prefer safety eyes for pupils, or black felt ovals
  • Two small brown buttons, about 8 mm wide, for overalls
  • 2.5 mm crochet hook
  • 2.0 mm crochet hook for small appliques and flowers
  • Fiberfill stuffing
  • Yarn needle
  • Stitch markers
  • Scissors
  • Sewing pins
  • Optional craft wire for ears
  • Optional thin cardboard or plastic circle for the straw hat brim

Abbreviations

  • MR: magic ring
  • ch: chain
  • st: stitch
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • sc: single crochet
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • dc: double crochet
  • inc: increase, 2 sc in the same stitch
  • dec: invisible decrease over 2 stitches
  • BLO: back loop only
  • FLO: front loop only
  • FO: fasten off
  • R: round or row

Important Notes Before You Begin

Keep your stitches tight and even. The pictured bunny has a smooth amigurumi surface with compact stitches, so do not use a hook that creates gaps. Stuff each piece firmly, especially the head, feet, and lower legs, but avoid overstuffing the arms because they need to hang naturally.

The head is larger than the body, giving the doll a classic cartoon amigurumi look. The ears are tall and narrow, slightly tapered, and attached close together at the top of the head. The cheeks are large, rounded, and white, with the pink nose centered above them.

The outfit is made as separate crochet pieces so it looks layered. The striped shirt sits under the denim overalls. The overall shorts have two legs, a bib, shoulder straps, button details, and small orange carrot appliques.

Head

Use gray yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. Work in continuous rounds. Stuff firmly as you go, especially after the widest rounds.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts
  5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts
  6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts
  7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts
  8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts
  9. R9: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts
  10. R10-R17: sc in each st around. 54 sts
  11. R18: sc 7, dec, repeat around. 48 sts
  12. R19: sc in each st around. 48 sts
  13. R20: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts
  14. R21: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts
  15. R22: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts
  16. R23: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts
  17. R24: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts

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Pause here and stuff the head very firmly. The front should be rounded, not flat. Leave the bottom opening at 18 stitches for sewing to the neck later. FO with a long tail.

White Muzzle Base

The muzzle is a wide, soft white oval sitting across the lower front of the face. It should cover the lower third of the head and create the rounded cartoon cheek area.

Use white yarn.

  1. R1: ch 9. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side of the chain, sc 6, inc in last ch. 18 sts
  2. R2: inc, sc 6, inc in next 3 sts, sc 6, inc in next 2 sts. 24 sts
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 6, repeat sc 1, inc three times, sc 6, repeat sc 1, inc two times. 30 sts
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, sc 8, repeat sc 2, inc three times, sc 8, repeat sc 2, inc two times. 36 sts
  5. R5: sc in each st around. 36 sts

FO with a long tail. Lightly stuff only the center before sewing. Pin the muzzle horizontally across the lower front of the head, with the top edge around R14 of the head and the lower edge around R22. Sew around the edge using small stitches.

Large White Cheeks

Make two. These round cheek pads sit on each side of the muzzle and should look puffy. Use white yarn.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts
  5. R5-R6: sc in each st around. 24 sts
  6. R7: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts

FO with a long tail. Stuff each cheek lightly. Pin one cheek to the lower left of the face and one to the lower right, overlapping the muzzle base slightly. The cheeks should touch near the center below the nose. Sew securely.

Eye Whites

Make two tall white ovals. Use white yarn and a 2.0 mm or 2.5 mm hook depending on your tension.

  1. R1: ch 7. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, work on the other side of the chain, sc 4, inc in last ch. 14 sts
  2. R2: inc, sc 4, inc in next 3 sts, sc 4, inc in next 2 sts. 20 sts
  3. R3: sc in each st around. 20 sts

FO with a long tail. Flatten slightly. Sew the eye whites vertically on the gray part of the face above the muzzle, about 3 stitches apart at the top and 2 stitches apart near the bottom. The lower edges should slightly tuck behind the top of the muzzle.

Black Pupils

Make two using black yarn, black felt, or safety eyes. For crocheted pupils, use black yarn.

  1. R1: 5 sc in MR. Pull tight and sl st to first sc. 5 sts

FO with a long tail. Sew one black pupil vertically near the lower inside area of each white eye. The pupils should look tall and oval. To create a longer oval, add 3 straight vertical embroidery stitches over each crocheted circle.

Pink Nose

Use pink yarn or embroidery thread. The nose is a small rounded triangle placed at the top center of the white muzzle, between the eyes and cheeks.

  1. Insert the needle from the back of the head to the center front above the cheeks.
  2. Make 8 to 10 horizontal stitches across 4 stitches of width.
  3. Make 3 shorter stitches below the center to form a soft triangle point.
  4. Bring the yarn to the back of the head and knot securely.

With black embroidery thread, stitch one straight vertical line from the bottom center of the nose down between the cheeks for about 1 inch. Add one very small split line at the bottom if desired, but keep it subtle like the photo.

Ears

Make two gray outer ears and two cream inner ear panels. The ears are tall, narrow, and slightly curved. They should be about the same height as the head or slightly taller.

Outer Ears

Use gray yarn. Make two.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
  2. R2: sc in each st around. 6 sts
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts
  4. R4: sc in each st around. 9 sts
  5. R5: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 12 sts
  6. R6: sc in each st around. 12 sts
  7. R7: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 15 sts
  8. R8: sc in each st around. 15 sts
  9. R9: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 18 sts
  10. R10-R26: sc in each st around. 18 sts
  11. R27: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 15 sts
  12. R28: sc in each st around. 15 sts
  13. R29: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 12 sts
  14. R30: sc in each st around. 12 sts

Do not stuff the entire ear. Add only a small amount of stuffing at the lower 1 inch if you want the base to stand. Flatten the top portion. FO with a long tail.

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Inner Ear Panels

Use cream yarn. Make two flat ovals.

  1. R1: ch 16. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 14, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side of the chain, sc 13, inc in last ch. 32 sts
  2. R2: inc, sc 13, inc in next 3 sts, sc 13, inc in next 2 sts. 38 sts
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 13, repeat sc 1, inc three times, sc 13, repeat sc 1, inc two times. 44 sts

FO with a long tail. Sew one cream panel onto each gray ear, centered on the front side. Leave a gray border visible around the cream insert. Curve the panel naturally while sewing so it follows the ear shape.

Attaching the Ears

Pin the ears on top of the head between R3 and R8. Place them close together, about 4 stitches apart at the base. The ears should angle slightly outward, not straight sideways. Sew through both layers several times at the base to keep them upright.

If using wire, cut two pieces about 8 inches long. Fold each end over so there are no sharp points. Insert one wire inside each ear before sewing the ear closed at the base. Do not use wire if the toy is intended for a baby or small child.

Body

The body is slim and mostly hidden under the clothing. Use gray yarn. Stuff firmly as you go.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts
  5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts
  6. R6-R10: sc in each st around. 30 sts
  7. R11: sc 8, dec, repeat around. 27 sts
  8. R12-R14: sc in each st around. 27 sts
  9. R15: sc 7, dec, repeat around. 24 sts
  10. R16-R18: sc in each st around. 24 sts
  11. R19: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts
  12. R20-R21: sc in each st around. 18 sts

FO with a long tail. Stuff the neck area firmly. Sew the body to the head, matching the 18-stitch opening of the head to the 18 stitches at the top of the body. Keep the face centered over the front of the body.

Legs

Make two gray legs. The legs are long and narrow, visible below the denim shorts. Use gray yarn.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts
  4. R4: BLO sc in each st around. 18 sts
  5. R5-R18: sc in each st around. 18 sts
  6. R19: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 15 sts
  7. R20: sc in each st around. 15 sts

Stuff each leg firmly but keep the top slightly soft for sewing. FO with a long tail. Sew the legs to the bottom of the body with about 3 stitches between them. Angle them straight downward so the bunny stands in a balanced seated-standing pose like the image.

Feet and White Slippers

Make two large white feet. They are rounded at the front and slightly flattened underneath. Use white yarn.

  1. R1: ch 8. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch, work on other side, sc 5, inc in last ch. 16 sts
  2. R2: inc, sc 5, inc in next 3 sts, sc 5, inc in next 2 sts. 22 sts
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 5, repeat sc 1, inc three times, sc 5, repeat sc 1, inc two times. 28 sts
  4. R4: BLO sc in each st around. 28 sts
  5. R5-R6: sc in each st around. 28 sts
  6. R7: sc 8, dec 6 times, sc 8. 22 sts
  7. R8: sc 7, dec 4 times, sc 7. 18 sts
  8. R9: sc in each st around. 18 sts

Stuff the foot firmly, especially the toe. FO with a long tail. Sew each foot to the bottom of a gray leg, making sure the large rounded toe faces forward.

Cream Sole Edge

Use cream yarn. Attach yarn to the remaining front loop from R4 of each foot. Sl st around the entire foot, then FO. This creates the pale sole edge visible at the bottom of the slippers.

Toe Lines and Small Yellow Flowers

Use black embroidery thread to stitch one vertical toe line down the center front of each slipper. The line should start near the top of the toe and end near the sole edge.

For the tiny yellow flower on each slipper, use yellow yarn and a 2.0 mm hook.

  1. Flower: 5 sc in MR, sl st to first sc. Ch 2, sl st in same st, repeat in each st around for 5 small petals.

Sew one tiny flower near the outer top edge of each slipper, matching the small yellow accents shown in the image.

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Arms

Make two arms. Each arm starts with a white mitten-style hand and changes to gray for the arm. The hands are rounded and simple.

Hand and Arm

Use white yarn first.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts
  4. R4-R6: sc in each st around. 18 sts
  5. R7: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts
  6. R8: sc in each st around. 12 sts

Change to gray yarn.

  1. R9-R22: sc in each st around. 12 sts
  2. R23: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 10 sts

Stuff the hand firmly and the arm lightly. Flatten the top of the arm. FO with a long tail. Sew the arms to the sides of the body at R19 of the head-body join area, just under the shoulders. The arms should hang downward with the white hands resting near the shorts.

Striped Shirt

The shirt is crocheted directly as a removable-looking layer around the upper body. It has short sleeves and alternating blue and white stripes. Use blue and white yarn.

Shirt Body

Start with blue yarn. Work in joined rounds for cleaner color changes. Ch 1 at the start of each round does not count as a stitch. Join each round with a sl st to the first sc.

  1. R1: ch 31, join to form a ring. Sc in each ch around. 30 sts
  2. R2: blue, sc in each st around. 30 sts
  3. R3: white, sc in each st around. 30 sts
  4. R4: blue, sc in each st around. 30 sts
  5. R5: white, sc in each st around. 30 sts
  6. R6: blue, sc in each st around. 30 sts
  7. R7: white, sc in each st around. 30 sts
  8. R8: blue, sc in each st around. 30 sts
  9. R9: white, sc in each st around. 30 sts
  10. R10: blue, sc in each st around. 30 sts

FO and weave in ends. Pull the shirt tube over the body before attaching the head if possible. If the head is already attached, leave a back seam open by working rows instead of rounds, then sew the back closed around the body.

Short Sleeves

Make two. Use blue yarn for the sleeve edge and white yarn for one stripe.

  1. R1: ch 13, join to form a ring. Sc in each ch around. 12 sts
  2. R2: blue, sc in each st around. 12 sts
  3. R3: white, sc in each st around. 12 sts
  4. R4: blue, sc in each st around. 12 sts

FO with a long tail. Slide one sleeve over each arm before sewing the arm to the body. Sew the upper sleeve edge to the shoulder area of the shirt so the blue sleeve cap is visible like the photo.

Denim-Style Overalls

The overalls are made in dark denim blue. They include shorts, a front bib, two straps, rolled cuffs, buttons, and carrot appliques. Use tight stitches and keep the fabric firm.

Overall Shorts

Make two short leg tubes first, then join them.

First Short Leg

  1. R1: ch 21, join to form a ring. Sc in each ch around. 20 sts
  2. R2-R5: sc in each st around. 20 sts

FO the first leg.

Second Short Leg

  1. R1: ch 21, join to form a ring. Sc in each ch around. 20 sts
  2. R2-R5: sc in each st around. 20 sts

Do not fasten off after the second leg.

Join the Short Legs

  1. R6: sc 20 around the second leg, ch 2, sc 20 around the first leg, sc 2 across the chain bridge. 44 sts
  2. R7-R10: sc in each st around. 44 sts
  3. R11: sc 9, dec, repeat around. 40 sts
  4. R12-R13: sc in each st around. 40 sts

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FO and weave in ends. Pull the shorts over the legs and lower body. Position the joining bridge at the center crotch. Sew the top edge to the shirt with hidden stitches if you want the clothing permanently attached.

Rolled Cuffs

Use a slightly lighter blue or the same denim blue. Attach yarn to the bottom edge of each short leg.

  1. Cuff Round: FLO sc in each stitch around the leg opening. Join with sl st. FO.

Fold the cuff upward slightly and tack it in four places. This creates the rolled hem shown at the bottom of the shorts.

Front Bib

Use denim blue. Work in rows.

  1. Row 1: ch 15. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 14. Ch 1, turn.
  2. Row 2-8: sc in each st across. 14 sts. Ch 1, turn after each row.
  3. Row 9: dec, sc 10, dec. 12 sts.
  4. Row 10: sc in each st across. 12 sts.

FO with a long tail. Sew the bib to the front center of the shorts, with the bottom edge overlapping the waistband. Add a horizontal embroidered line across the upper bib to suggest a pocket opening.

Overall Straps

Make two straps in denim blue.

  1. Strap Row 1: ch 28. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 27.
  2. Strap Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc 27.

FO with long tails. Attach the back end of each strap to the back waistband. Cross or angle each strap over the shoulder to the front bib. Sew the front ends to the top corners of the bib. Add one small brown button on each front strap end.

Denim Stitch Lines

Use light blue or gray embroidery thread. Stitch a vertical line down the center front of the shorts from the bib bottom to the crotch. Add one short horizontal line near the waistband and small pocket-like lines on each side. Keep the lines subtle so they look like denim seams.

Carrot Appliques for Overalls

Make three small carrots: one for the bib and one for each short leg. Use orange and green yarn with a 2.0 mm hook.

Small Orange Carrot

Make three.

  1. Row 1: ch 6. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5. Ch 1, turn.
  2. Row 2: dec, sc 1, dec. 3 sts. Ch 1, turn.
  3. Row 3: sc 3. Ch 1, turn.
  4. Row 4: dec, sc 1. 2 sts. Ch 1, turn.
  5. Row 5: dec. 1 st.

FO. Attach green yarn to the wide top of the carrot. Ch 3, sl st into same spot, ch 3, sl st into same spot, ch 2, sl st into same spot. FO. Sew one carrot to the bib center, one to the lower right leg, and one to the lower left side of the shorts.

Yellow Crossbody Bag

The bag sits on the bunny’s left side and hangs from a yellow strap crossing the chest diagonally. It has a tiny carrot patch on the front.

Bag Body

Use yellow yarn.

  1. R1: ch 9. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch, work on other side, sc 6, inc in last ch. 18 sts
  2. R2: inc, sc 6, inc in next 3 sts, sc 6, inc in next 2 sts. 24 sts
  3. R3: BLO sc in each st around. 24 sts
  4. R4-R9: sc in each st around. 24 sts
  5. R10: sc 5, dec, repeat around with final sc 3. 21 sts

Flatten the top slightly. Do not stuff heavily; add only a thin layer of fiberfill if you want the bag to look rounded. FO and weave in the end.

Bag Flap

Use yellow yarn. Work in rows.

  1. Row 1: ch 11. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 10. Ch 1, turn.
  2. Row 2: sc 10. Ch 1, turn.
  3. Row 3: dec, sc 6, dec. 8 sts. Ch 1, turn.
  4. Row 4: dec, sc 4, dec. 6 sts.

FO with a long tail. Sew the straight edge of the flap to the back top edge of the bag and let the tapered edge fold over the front.

Bag Strap

Use yellow yarn.

  1. Strap: ch 70. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st in each ch across. FO.

Sew one end of the strap to each side of the bag. Place the strap over the bunny’s right shoulder so it crosses the striped shirt diagonally and the bag rests on the left hip. Tack the strap to the shoulder with one hidden stitch so it stays in place.

Carrot Patch for Bag

Use the same small carrot applique instructions from the overalls, but begin with ch 5 instead of ch 6 for a smaller patch. Sew it to the front of the yellow bag.

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Straw Sunhat

The hat is a separate round yellow accessory placed to the bunny’s right side in the image. It has a flat circular crown, wide brim, and blue ribbon bow.

Hat Crown

Use yellow yarn. Work in joined rounds for a clean spiral look. Join with sl st and ch 1 at the start of each round.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts
  5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts
  6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts
  7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts
  8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts
  9. R9: BLO sc in each st around. 48 sts
  10. R10-R13: sc in each st around. 48 sts

Hat Brim

  1. R14: FLO sc 3, inc, repeat around. 60 sts
  2. R15: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 72 sts
  3. R16: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 84 sts
  4. R17: sc in each st around. 84 sts
  5. R18: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 96 sts
  6. R19: sc in each st around. 96 sts
  7. R20: sl st loosely in each st around for a neat edge. 96 sts

FO and weave in ends. To make the hat flatter like the photo, lightly steam it or block it by pinning the brim flat until dry. Do not overheat acrylic yarn.

Blue Hat Ribbon and Bow

Use blue yarn.

  1. Ribbon: ch 65. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st in each ch across. FO.
  2. Bow Loop 1: ch 18, sl st to first ch to form a loop. FO.
  3. Bow Loop 2: ch 18, sl st to first ch to form a loop. FO.
  4. Bow Tails: make two chains of 14, sl st back across each chain. FO.

Wrap the ribbon around the crown where the crown meets the brim. Sew it in place with the join at the front lower side. Sew the two loops and two tails together at the join to create the blue bow visible on the hat.

Loose Carrot Accessory

The loose carrot is held near the flower basket. Use orange yarn and a 2.0 mm hook.

  1. R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts
  2. R2: sc in each st around. 5 sts
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 3. 6 sts
  4. R4: sc in each st around. 6 sts
  5. R5: sc 2, inc, sc 3. 7 sts
  6. R6: sc in each st around. 7 sts
  7. R7: sc 3, inc, sc 3. 8 sts
  8. R8: sc in each st around. 8 sts
  9. R9: sc 3, inc, sc 4. 9 sts
  10. R10: sc in each st around. 9 sts
  11. R11: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 12 sts
  12. R12: sc in each st around. 12 sts

Stuff lightly. FO and close the top. Add green leaves by joining green yarn to the top and making ch 5, sl st back down, sl st into top, repeated 4 times.

Flower Basket

The basket is tan with a curved handle and small colorful flowers inside. It hangs from the bunny’s white hand.

Basket Base and Sides

Use tan yarn.

  1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
  2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts
  3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts
  4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts
  5. R5: BLO sc in each st around. 24 sts
  6. R6-R10: sc in each st around. 24 sts
  7. R11: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts
  8. R12: sc in each st around. 18 sts

FO and weave in the end. Stuff the lower half very lightly or place a small yarn scrap inside so the basket keeps its round shape.

Basket Handle

Use tan yarn.

  1. Handle: ch 35. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st in each ch across. Ch 1, turn, sc in each sl st across for a thicker handle.

FO with long tails. Sew one end of the handle to each side of the basket. Position the handle in an arch. Sew the top of the handle to the bunny’s white hand with a few hidden stitches.

Tiny Flowers

Make 6 to 8 flowers in pink, purple, yellow, and white. Use a 2.0 mm hook.

  1. Flower Center: 5 sc in MR, sl st to first sc.
  2. Petals: ch 2, sl st in same st, repeat in each stitch around.

FO with long tails. Add green leaves by making ch 4, sl st back down the chain, and sewing the leaf beside a flower. Sew the flowers into the basket opening so they sit above the rim like a small spring bouquet.

Facial Details and Expression

The face is the most important part of this bunny. Before sewing permanently, pin every detail in place and view the doll from the front. The eyes should be tall and close together. The muzzle and cheeks should look wide and soft. The nose should sit exactly at the center where the cheeks meet.

  • Sew the eye whites first, keeping them vertical.
  • Add black pupils near the inner lower side of each eye.
  • Sew the white muzzle base across the lower face.
  • Add both puffy cheeks over the muzzle base.
  • Embroider the pink nose at the top center of the cheeks.
  • Stitch the black mouth line straight down from the nose.
  • Add two tiny white stitches on the mouth line if you want the small tooth effect.

Assembly Order

Use pins before sewing. Correct placement makes the doll match the photo much more closely. Sew all pieces with firm hidden stitches and matching yarn whenever possible.

  1. Sew the muzzle base to the head.
  2. Sew the cheeks over the lower sides of the muzzle.
  3. Sew the eye whites above the muzzle.
  4. Add pupils, nose, and mouth embroidery.
  5. Sew the inner ear panels onto the gray outer ears.
  6. Sew the ears to the top of the head, angled slightly outward.
  7. Sew the head to the body.
  8. Sew the legs to the body.
  9. Sew the white feet to the legs.
  10. Put the striped shirt around the upper body.
  11. Add the overalls over the lower body.
  12. Sew sleeves around the arms and attach arms to the shoulders.
  13. Add buttons, straps, denim seam embroidery, and carrot appliques.
  14. Place the yellow bag strap across the chest and secure the bag to the left side.
  15. Sew the flower basket handle to one white hand.
  16. Place the loose carrot near the other hand or sew it lightly to the hand.
  17. Display the straw hat beside the bunny or tack it gently near one ear if desired.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

After all pieces are attached, check the front view. The head should be centered, the ears should be tall, and the overalls should sit evenly above both legs. Adjust the bag strap so it crosses from the bunny’s right shoulder to the left hip.

Use small embroidery stitches to refine the expression. Add a few gray stitches at the base of each ear if they need extra support. Add one hidden stitch behind each cheek if the cheeks look too loose.

Brush away loose fibers with clean hands. Shape the cheeks, feet, and basket gently. Do not pull the facial embroidery too tight because it may distort the white muzzle.

Care Notes

  • Spot clean with cool water and mild soap.
  • Do not soak the doll if you used cardboard inside the hat brim.
  • Do not machine dry.
  • Let the doll air dry flat on a towel.
  • Keep embroidered details away from rough Velcro or sharp objects.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Both ears are sewn firmly and angled slightly outward.
  • Eye whites are vertical and evenly placed.
  • Cheeks are round, white, and puffy.
  • Pink nose is centered above the cheeks.
  • Striped shirt shows blue and white rows clearly.
  • Overall straps cross the shoulders neatly and have brown buttons.
  • Carrot appliques are sewn to the bib, shorts, and yellow bag.
  • Bag strap crosses diagonally over the chest.
  • Basket handle is attached securely to the hand.
  • Hat brim is flat and finished with a blue ribbon bow.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term display, keep the bunny away from direct sunlight because bright light can fade the blue, yellow, and orange yarns. Store the doll in a clean cotton bag or on an open shelf where the ears are not crushed.

If dust collects on the hat brim, basket, or flower details, use a soft dry brush and work gently from the center outward. Avoid rubbing the embroidered nose and mouth.

If the doll becomes misshapen, reshape it by hand while the yarn is slightly damp from spot cleaning. Press the feet flat, round the cheeks with your fingertips, and straighten the ears before leaving the doll to dry completely.

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