Crochet Tutorial: Daisy Bee Gardener in Green Overalls – Free Crochet Pattern.

This cheerful daisy bee gardener is a soft amigurumi doll with a round yellow bee head, oversized white eye patches, slim antennae, a daisy flower crown, green garden overalls, striped bee legs, green shoes, a woven brown crossbody basket, a straw sunhat, a watering can, and a tiny garden trowel. The pattern is written in US crochet terms and works best with firm amigurumi tension.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Details

• Skill level: Advanced beginner to intermediate.
• Finished size: About 11 inches tall when made with DK weight cotton yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.
• Construction: The head, body, limbs, clothing, accessories, and tools are crocheted separately, then sewn together.
• Main method: Work most pieces in continuous spiral rounds. Do not join unless the pattern says to join.
• Important tension note: Use tight, even stitches so stuffing does not show through.

Materials

• DK weight cotton yarn in bright yellow, light yellow, green, dark green, brown, tan, white, cream, soft peach, pale blue-gray, and tiny amounts of pink, yellow, and leaf green.
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for the doll and main pieces.
• 2.0 mm crochet hook for flowers, bag details, ribbon ties, and small accessories.
• 8 mm black safety eyes or black beads for the pupils.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch marker.
• Two small green buttons for shoes.
• Two small tan buttons for overall straps.
• Embroidery thread in black, peach, dark brown, green, pink, and yellow.
• Optional floral ribbon for the crossbody strap, or crochet the strap as written.
• Thin craft wire for antennae and trowel handle support, optional but helpful.

US Crochet Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st: stitch
• R: round or row
• FO: fasten off

Gauge and Firmness

Gauge is not strict for this doll, but the sample look depends on compact amigurumi fabric. With DK cotton and a 2.5 mm hook, 6 sc across should measure about 1 inch. The head should feel firm and round after stuffing, not soft and collapsible.

If your stitches look loose, change to a smaller hook. If the overalls become too tight to fit around the body, keep the same stitch counts but use slightly lighter stuffing in the body before dressing.

Color Placement Guide

• Head: Bright yellow with soft peach blush stripes on both cheeks.
• Eye patches: Two large white vertical ovals sewn side by side on the upper face.
• Body base: Yellow bee body mostly hidden under green overalls.
• Overalls: Leaf green with short legs, front bib, shoulder straps, small flowers, and tan buttons.
• Arms: Light yellow, long and slim.
• Legs: Yellow upper legs with brown and yellow striped lower legs.
• Shoes: Green slipper shoes with brown oval toe patches and small green buttons.
• Accessories: Brown basket bag, tan straw hat with green ribbon, tan watering can, and brown-handled trowel.

Head

Use bright yellow yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. Work in continuous rounds. Stuff firmly as you go, especially near the lower head, so the head stays round and slightly larger than the body.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 24 sts
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 30 sts
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat around. 36 sts
7. R7: sc 5, inc; repeat around. 42 sts
8. R8: sc 6, inc; repeat around. 48 sts
9. R9: sc 7, inc; repeat around. 54 sts
10. R10: sc 8, inc; repeat around. 60 sts
11. R11-R20: sc in each st around. 60 sts
12. R21: sc 8, dec; repeat around. 54 sts
13. R22: sc 7, dec; repeat around. 48 sts
14. R23: sc 6, dec; repeat around. 42 sts
15. R24: sc 5, dec; repeat around. 36 sts
16. R25: sc 4, dec; repeat around. 30 sts
17. R26: sc 3, dec; repeat around. 24 sts
18. R27: sc 2, dec; repeat around. 18 sts

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Pause here and stuff the head very firmly. The image shows a full, round bee head with a gentle lower cheek curve. Add small pieces of stuffing around the cheek area before closing.

1. R28: sc 1, dec; repeat around. 12 sts
2. R29: dec around. 6 sts

FO, leaving a tail. Weave through the front loops of the final 6 stitches, pull closed, and hide the tail inside the head.

White Eye Patches

Make 2 with white yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. These are large oval patches, not tiny eyes. They should sit high on the face and overlap the center area slightly, creating the sweet wide-eyed bee expression.

1. R1: Ch 7. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side of the chain: sc 4, inc in last ch. 14 sts
2. R2: inc, sc 4, inc in next 3 sts, sc 4, inc in next 2 sts. 20 sts
3. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 26 sts
4. R4: sc around. 26 sts

FO, leaving a long sewing tail. Do not stuff. Flatten lightly. Sew the patches onto the face between R11 and R20 of the head. Place them with the inner edges almost touching. The tops should lean slightly outward for a soft cartoon shape.

Black Pupils

• Place one 8 mm black safety eye or bead on each white patch.
• Position each pupil slightly toward the inner lower side of the patch.
• If using safety eyes, attach them through the patch only before sewing the patch to the head.
• If using beads, sew them firmly after the patches are attached.

Smile and Face Embroidery

Use black embroidery thread. Stitch a curved smile across R19-R21 of the head. The smile should be wide but gentle, beginning under the left eye patch and ending under the right cheek.

• Use one long curved stitch, then secure it with two tiny anchor stitches.
• Embroider a small short eyebrow above each eye using dark brown thread.
• Add peach blush with 4 short horizontal stitches on each cheek between R17 and R20.
• Keep the blush soft and light, like the subtle orange-peach shading in the image.

Antennae

Make 2 with dark brown yarn and a 2.0 mm hook. For a poseable finish, crochet around a thin piece of craft wire. If making for a young child, skip the wire and stuff the tips lightly instead.

Antenna Stem

1. Ch 18.
2. Starting in the second ch from hook, sl st in each ch across. 17 sl sts
3. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Antenna Knob

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts
2. R2: inc in each st around. 10 sts
3. R3: sc around. 10 sts
4. R4: dec around. 5 sts

FO and close. Sew one knob to the end of each stem. Attach the antennae to the top of the head around R5-R6, about 8 stitches apart. Angle them outward so they match the playful curved antennae in the photo.

Flower Crown Base

Use dark green yarn and a 2.0 mm hook. The crown sits around the top front of the head, just below the antennae, with white daisies arranged across the forehead.

1. Ch 42.
2. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc in each ch across. 41 sts
3. Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. 41 sts
4. FO, leaving a long tail.

Pin the strip around the top of the head from one side of the forehead to the other, following the curve above the eyes. Sew it down with small hidden stitches.

Small Daisy Flowers

Make 7 daisies: 5 for the crown and 2 for the overalls. Use white yarn for petals and yellow yarn for centers. Use the 2.0 mm hook.

Daisy Center

1. With yellow yarn, make 6 sc in MR.
2. Sl st to first sc and FO.

Daisy Petals

1. Join white yarn into any center stitch.
2. Ch 3, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, sl st into same center st.
3. Repeat the petal instructions in each of the remaining 5 center stitches.
4. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Sew 5 daisies across the green crown strip. Place one in the center, two on each side, and let the petals overlap slightly. Sew 2 daisies later onto the lower front of the green overalls.

Body

Use yellow yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. The body is smaller than the head, slightly tapered at the neck, and mostly covered by the overalls. Stuff firmly but not so much that the clothing stretches.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 24 sts
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 30 sts
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat around. 36 sts
7. R7-R13: sc in each st around. 36 sts
8. R14: sc 4, dec; repeat around. 30 sts
9. R15-R17: sc in each st around. 30 sts
10. R18: sc 3, dec; repeat around. 24 sts
11. R19-R20: sc in each st around. 24 sts
12. R21: sc 2, dec; repeat around. 18 sts
13. R22: sc in each st around. 18 sts

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Stuff the body. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing to the head. The neck opening should be narrow and stable so the large round head does not wobble.

Bee Stripe Detail on Hidden Shirt Sides

The image shows small brown bee stripes peeking from the side under the green overalls. Add these before sewing the overalls in place.

• Use dark brown embroidery thread or yarn.
• On each side of the body, stitch 3 short horizontal brown stripes across R10-R15.
• Make each stripe about 5 stitches wide.
• Keep the front mostly clear because it will be covered by the bib.

Arms

Make 2 with light yellow yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. The arms are long, slim, and lightly rounded at the hands.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts
3. R3-R5: sc in each st around. 12 sts
4. R6: sc 2, dec; repeat around. 9 sts
5. R7-R23: sc in each st around. 9 sts

Stuff the hand firmly and the arm lightly. Flatten the top opening.

1. R24: sc through both layers across to close. 4 sc

FO, leaving a long sewing tail. Sew the arms to the upper sides of the body at R19-R20, angled slightly downward. The right arm in the image reaches outward, so sew one arm with a slight open angle.

Legs

Make 2. Start with yellow for the upper leg, then create brown and yellow bee stripes for the lower leg. Use a 2.5 mm hook.

Upper Leg

1. With light yellow, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
2. R2: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 9 sts
3. R3-R8: sc in each st around. 9 sts

Striped Lower Leg

1. Change to brown. R9-R10: sc around. 9 sts
2. Change to yellow. R11-R12: sc around. 9 sts
3. Change to brown. R13-R14: sc around. 9 sts
4. Change to yellow. R15-R16: sc around. 9 sts
5. Change to brown. R17-R18: sc around. 9 sts

Stuff lightly. Flatten the top only after the shoes are added. FO if making the shoes separately. Leave a tail for sewing the leg into the shoe if needed.

Green Shoes

Make 2 with green yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. These shoes are rounded slipper-style garden shoes with brown oval toe patches and a small side button.

Shoe Base

1. Ch 8.
2. R1: Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side of the chain: sc 5, inc in last ch. 16 sts
3. R2: inc, sc 5, inc in next 3 sts, sc 5, inc in next 2 sts. 22 sts
4. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 6, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 6, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 30 sts
5. R4: BLO sc around. 30 sts
6. R5-R6: sc around. 30 sts
7. R7: sc 8, dec 6 times, sc 10. 24 sts
8. R8: sc 7, dec 4 times, sc 9. 20 sts
9. R9: sc around. 20 sts

Stuff the toe lightly. Insert the bottom of the leg into the shoe opening and sew firmly. The shoe should cover the bottom of the striped leg like a soft green slipper.

Brown Toe Patch

Make 2 with brown yarn and a 2.0 mm hook.

1. Ch 5.
2. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 3, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side: sc 2, inc in last ch. 10 sts
3. R2: inc, sc 2, inc in next 3 sts, sc 2, inc in next 2 sts. 16 sts

FO, leaving a sewing tail. Sew one brown oval patch onto the front top of each green shoe. Sew one small green button to the outer side of each shoe.

Green Overalls

The overalls are the main clothing feature. They have short legs, a high front bib, shoulder straps, tan buttons, and small white daisies near the lower front. Use leaf green yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

Overall Shorts Legs

Make 2 leg tubes first.

1. R1: Ch 22, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Make sure the chain is not twisted.
2. R2: Ch 1, sc in each ch around. 22 sts
3. R3-R8: sc in each st around. 22 sts
4. FO on first leg. Do not fasten off on second leg.

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Join the Overall Legs

1. From the second leg, ch 3.
2. Sc into any stitch of the first leg, sc around the first leg, sc in each of the 3 joining chains, sc around the second leg, sc in the other side of the 3 joining chains. 50 sts
3. R10-R17: sc around. 50 sts
4. R18: sc 8, dec; repeat around. 45 sts
5. R19-R22: sc around. 45 sts
6. R23: sc 7, dec; repeat around. 40 sts
7. R24-R25: sc around. 40 sts

Try the overalls on the body. They should sit high on the waist and cover most of the yellow body. FO and weave in the end.

Front Bib

Join green yarn at the center front of the top edge of the overalls. Work in rows.

1. Row 1: Sc 14 across the front top edge. Ch 1, turn. 14 sts
2. Row 2-8: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. 14 sts
3. Row 9: sc 1, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 1. 12 sts
4. Row 10: sc across. 12 sts

FO and weave in the end. The bib should reach the upper chest and sit flat under the bee’s face.

Back Panel

Join green yarn at the center back top edge.

1. Row 1: Sc 12 across the back top edge. Ch 1, turn. 12 sts
2. Row 2-5: sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. 12 sts

FO and weave in the end. This panel supports the shoulder straps.

Shoulder Straps

Make 2 with green yarn, or use narrow floral ribbon to match the picture. The image shows one floral strap for the bag and green overall straps with buttons, so the overalls use plain green straps.

1. Ch 24.
2. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc in each ch across. 23 sts
3. FO, leaving sewing tails.

Sew each strap from the back panel over the shoulder to the top corner of the front bib. Cross them slightly in the back if needed for a snug fit. Sew one small tan button at each front strap end.

Overall Flower Embroidery

• Sew 2 small daisies onto the lower front of the overalls, one on each leg.
• Use green thread to embroider tiny leaves beside each daisy.
• Add 2 tiny yellow straight stitches near the bib to suggest garden sprigs.
• Keep all details small so the overalls still look clean and handmade.

Crossbody Garden Basket Bag

The bee wears a brown woven basket-style bag across the front. The bag is rounded at the bottom, has vertical ribbed texture, and hangs from a floral strap running from one shoulder to the opposite hip.

Basket Bag Body

Use medium brown yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

1. Ch 13.
2. R1: Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 11, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side: sc 10, inc in last ch. 26 sts
3. R2: inc, sc 10, inc in next 3 sts, sc 10, inc in next 2 sts. 32 sts
4. R3: BLO sc around. 32 sts
5. R4-R9: sc around. 32 sts
6. R10: sc 6, dec; repeat around. 28 sts
7. R11: sc around. 28 sts

Flatten the top slightly. Do not overstuff; the bag should look like a soft pouch. FO, leaving a tail to sew the top edge closed if you want a fixed closed bag.

Basket Rim

1. Join dark brown yarn to the top edge.
2. Sc around the top opening. 28 sts
3. Sl st to first sc and FO.

Vertical Woven Lines

• Use dark brown yarn and a yarn needle.
• Embroider 6 vertical lines down the front of the basket.
• Each line should run from the top rim to the lower curve.
• Add tiny diagonal stitches between the vertical lines to create a woven garden-basket texture.

Bag Strap

Use floral ribbon as shown in the image, or crochet a narrow strap with cream yarn and embroider pink flowers on it.

1. With cream yarn, ch 55.
2. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc in each ch across. 54 sts
3. FO, leaving sewing tails.

Embroider tiny pink flowers along the strap using 3 small straight stitches per flower. Add green dots for leaves. Sew one strap end to the back of the right shoulder and the other to the left side of the basket, so the basket rests on the front hip.

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Straw Sunhat

The hat is shown beside the bee, not worn on the head. It has a flat round crown, wide brim, tan straw texture, and a green ribbon tied into a bow. Use tan yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

Hat Crown

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 24 sts
5. R5: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 30 sts
6. R6: sc 4, inc; repeat around. 36 sts
7. R7: BLO sc around. 36 sts
8. R8-R12: sc around. 36 sts

Hat Brim

1. R13: FLO sc 2, inc; repeat around. 48 sts
2. R14: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 60 sts
3. R15: sc 4, inc; repeat around. 72 sts
4. R16-R18: sc around. 72 sts
5. R19: crab stitch around, or sl st loosely around for a simple edge. 72 sts

FO and weave in the end. Flatten the brim gently with your hands. To imitate the spiral straw look, surface crochet or embroider a tan spiral line from the center of the crown outward.

Green Hat Ribbon and Bow

1. With green yarn and a 2.0 mm hook, ch 48.
2. Starting in the second ch from hook, sl st across. 47 sts
3. Wrap around the base of the crown and sew in place.

For the bow, ch 18, sl st back across, and FO. Tie into a tiny bow and sew it to the front side of the ribbon. Leave the bow tails slightly long like the green ribbon in the image.

Watering Can

The small tan watering can sits beside the bee. It has a rounded body, side handle, short spout, and small top knob. Use tan yarn and a 2.0 mm hook.

Watering Can Body

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts
3. R3: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 18 sts
4. R4: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 24 sts
5. R5-R9: sc around. 24 sts
6. R10: sc 2, dec; repeat around. 18 sts
7. R11: sc around. 18 sts
8. R12: sc 1, dec; repeat around. 12 sts

Stuff lightly. FO, leaving a tail. Close the top opening or leave a small opening if you prefer a realistic can.

Watering Can Spout

1. With tan yarn, R1: 5 sc in MR. 5 sts
2. R2-R8: sc around. 5 sts
3. R9: inc, sc 4. 6 sts
4. R10: sc around. 6 sts

FO, leaving a sewing tail. Sew the spout to one side of the can, angled slightly upward.

Watering Can Handle

1. Ch 18.
2. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc across. 17 sts
3. FO, leaving tails.

Curve the strip into a handle and sew both ends to the opposite side of the can. Add a tiny top loop by chaining 8, slip stitching back across, and sewing it to the top.

Garden Trowel

The trowel has a brown handle and pale blue-gray metal scoop. Use a 2.0 mm hook. For shape, insert a short wire into the handle only if the item is decorative.

Handle

1. With brown yarn, R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
2. R2-R10: sc around. 6 sts

Stuff very lightly or insert a safe, blunt support if decorative. FO, leaving a tail.

Trowel Blade

Use pale blue-gray yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts
2. R2: sc 1, inc; repeat around. 9 sts
3. R3: sc 2, inc; repeat around. 12 sts
4. R4: sc 3, inc; repeat around. 15 sts
5. R5: sc around. 15 sts

Flatten the blade. Work through both layers across the top with 7 sc to close. FO, leaving a sewing tail. Sew the blade to the brown handle. Embroider two short darker gray lines on the blade for the folded metal detail.

Optional Yellow Neck Detail

The image shows a small dark accent near the neckline above the overalls. Add a tiny brown zigzag collar if desired.

• Use dark brown embroidery thread.
• Stitch small V shapes around the front neckline.
• Keep the stitches narrow, only 1 round tall.
• This detail should peek above the green bib.

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Joining the Doll

Before final sewing, pin every large piece in place. The head should be larger than the body, the body should sit centered in the overalls, and the arms should hang gently beside the bib. The legs should point downward with the green shoes turned slightly outward.

1. Sew the legs to the lower body before pulling the overalls fully into place. Place them about 5 stitches apart.
2. Slide the green overalls over the body and legs. Adjust the shorts so both leg openings sit evenly.
3. Sew the overalls to the body with a few hidden stitches along the back and under the bib.
4. Sew the arms to the upper sides of the body, just under the shoulder strap area.
5. Sew the head to the neck using the long body tail. Work around the neck twice for strength.
6. Attach the straps and buttons after the head is stable, so the strap placement looks natural.
7. Sew the crossbody bag strap diagonally across the chest, then secure the basket at the lower front hip.

Exact Placement Guide

• Eye patches: Between head rounds 11 and 20, centered on the face.
• Pupils: On the lower inner area of each white patch.
• Smile: Between rounds 19 and 21 of the head.
• Antennae: On top of the head around rounds 5 and 6, angled outward.
• Flower crown: Across the forehead above the eyes, under the antennae.
• Arms: Sew to body rounds 19 and 20, just below shoulder level.
• Overall bib: Centered on the front chest and reaching close to the neck.
• Bag: Basket rests on the front right or left hip, with strap crossing the chest.
• Shoes: Brown toe patches face forward, buttons sit on the outer sides.

Decorative Embroidery Details

Small details make this bee match the photo more closely. Keep the stitches neat and light. The doll should look like a handmade garden character, not a heavily decorated toy.

• Use peach thread for cheek blush and place 4 short lines on each cheek.
• Use dark brown thread for eyebrows and the smile.
• Use green thread for tiny leaves on the overalls.
• Use white and yellow daisies on the crown and lower overalls.
• Add tiny brown vertical stitches on the basket to imitate woven reeds.
• Add a green ribbon around the straw hat and tie a small bow on one side.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the doll from the front before tying off any final sewing tails. The face should look happy and balanced, with the white eye patches close together and the smile centered underneath. Adjust the antennae so they lean outward evenly.

Sew the head securely to the body using small stitches all around the neck. Add extra hidden stitches through the back of the head and upper body if the head feels heavy. Smooth the stuffing with your fingers so the head remains round.

Finish the face last. Add blush after the eyes and smile are complete. This helps you place the peach stitches evenly on both cheeks. Trim no yarn tails too close; weave each end deep into the head or body.

Care Notes

• Spot clean with cool water and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if you used buttons, beads, wire, or ribbon.
• Let the doll air dry flat on a towel.
• Reshape the hat brim, shoes, and basket while damp.
• Keep away from direct sunlight for long periods to protect the yellow and green colors.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is round, firm, and larger than the body.
• The white eye patches are even and placed high on the face.
• The antennae are secure and angled outward.
• The daisy crown sits across the top front of the head.
• The green overalls fit snugly with a front bib and two straps.
• The striped legs are visible below the shorts.
• The shoes have brown toe patches and green side buttons.
• The basket has a diagonal strap and woven front texture.
• The straw hat has a green ribbon and small bow.
• The watering can and trowel are finished as separate garden props.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term display, keep the bee gardener in a dry place with good airflow. Dust the doll gently with a soft brush. If the flower crown collects lint, use tweezers carefully and avoid pulling the petal stitches.

If the doll is stored, wrap it loosely in acid-free tissue or a clean cotton cloth. Do not compress the antennae, hat brim, basket, or watering can. Store the accessories beside the doll rather than under it.

For small stains, dab the area with a damp cloth and mild soap. Avoid soaking the face, because embroidered details and blush stitches can shift if rubbed too hard. Let every part dry completely before placing it back on display.

Finished Look

Your finished Daisy Bee Gardener should have the same cheerful garden style as the image: a round yellow bee face, soft white eyes, daisy crown, green overalls, striped bee legs, garden shoes, a woven basket bag, and matching gardening accessories. Place the straw hat, watering can, and trowel beside the doll for the complete display.