Crochet Tutorial: Wile E. Coyote in ACME Garden Overalls – Free Crochet Pattern.

This detailed amigurumi pattern creates a lanky coyote-style doll with tall pointed ears, tan muzzle, round cheek puffs, yellow determined eyes, blue garden overalls, orange-and-blue striped shirt, brown sandals, an ACME crossbody pouch, a tiny cactus pot on the head, TNT blocks, a potted cactus, and a straw hat with a red band.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

Using sport weight cotton yarn and a 2.25 mm hook, the seated coyote measures about 10.5 inches from sandal sole to ear tip. The body is intentionally slim with long limbs, oversized ears, a long muzzle, and rounded cheek pads to match the playful garden display in the photo.

• Doll seated height: about 10.5 inches including ears.
• Head width: about 3.2 inches across the cheek puffs.
• Ear length: about 4 inches each.
• Leg length: about 4 inches from hip to sandal.
• TNT blocks: about 1 inch wide each.
• Straw hat: about 3.5 inches across the brim.

Skill Level

This is an intermediate amigurumi pattern because it uses shaping, color changes, surface details, appliques, small accessories, and careful assembly. A confident beginner can complete it by following the stitch counts slowly and marking the first stitch of every round.

Materials

• Sport weight cotton yarn in dark brown, medium brown, tan beige, black, blue, orange, red, yellow, cream, white, light brown, green, and pale gray.
• 2.25 mm crochet hook for the doll and clothing.
• 2.0 mm crochet hook for small appliques, TNT labels, facial details, and cactus flower.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Two 8 mm black safety eyes or black yarn for embroidered pupils.
• Two small tan buttons, about 6 mm wide, for the overall straps.
• Yarn needle, pins, stitch markers, scissors.
• Thin cardboard or plastic canvas for TNT blocks, pouch flap, and sandal soles if you want extra structure.
• Optional floral wire for ears, arms, legs, cactus arms, and hat brim.

Yarn Color Guide

• Dark brown: head cap, ears border, arms, legs, tail area if added, sandal straps.
• Medium brown: body base, muzzle shading, sandals, ACME pouch, pot rims.
• Tan beige: muzzle, cheeks, inner ears, chin, toes, straw hat.
• Blue: overalls and stripes on shirt.
• Orange: shirt stripes.
• Yellow: eye whites in the stylized photo look yellow, so use yellow for the eye patches.
• Red: eye rims, tongue, TNT tops, hat band, small dynamite roll.
• Black: nose, pupils, TNT letters, sandal outline.
• White: bone applique, TNT paper labels, highlights.
• Green: cactus accessories.

Abbreviations in US Terms

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• st: stitch
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• FO: fasten off
• R: round or row

Gauge and Tension

For amigurumi, tight tension is more important than exact gauge. With a 2.25 mm hook, 8 sc and 8 rounds should measure about 1 inch. If stuffing shows through, go down a hook size. If the fabric becomes stiff and difficult, go up slightly.

Important Construction Notes

• Work most pieces in continuous rounds unless the pattern says to turn.
• Stuff the head, muzzle, cheeks, torso, upper arms, upper legs, feet, and sandals firmly.
• Stuff thin lower arms and lower legs lightly so the doll can sit naturally on the edge of a table.
• The coyote has a slim neck, long limbs, big cheek puffs, and tall ears angled outward.
• Pin every facial piece before sewing. The expression depends on the eyebrows, eye patches, and muzzle angle.
• Color changes for the shirt are worked in full rounds: orange, blue, orange, blue.

Main Head

The head is shaped like a rounded coyote head with a darker upper cap and tan lower face pieces sewn on later. Use medium brown for the base unless noted. Keep the head firm because the tall ears and cactus pot need support.

1. R1: With medium brown, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
9. R9: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts.
10. R10-R14: sc around for 5 rounds. 54 sts.
11. R15: Change to dark brown for the upper head cap. sc 18, change to medium brown, sc 18, change to dark brown, sc 18. 54 sts.
12. R16: dark brown sc 17, medium brown sc 20, dark brown sc 17. 54 sts.
13. R17: dark brown sc 16, medium brown sc 22, dark brown sc 16. 54 sts.
14. R18: sc 7, dec, repeat around. 48 sts.
15. R19: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
16. R20: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
17. R21: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
18. R22: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts. Begin firm stuffing.
19. R23: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
20. R24: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
21. R25: dec around. 6 sts. FO and close the opening.

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Long Pointed Muzzle

The muzzle projects forward with a tan base and a black rounded nose at the tip. Stuff it firmly at the front and more softly near the head so it sews on smoothly without becoming too bulky.

Nose Tip

1. R1: With black, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4-R5: sc around. 18 sts.
5. R6: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts. FO, leaving a long tail.

Muzzle Cone

1. R1: With tan beige, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: sc around. 6 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
4. R4: sc around. 9 sts.
5. R5: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 12 sts.
6. R6: sc around. 12 sts.
7. R7: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 15 sts.
8. R8: sc around. 15 sts.
9. R9: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
10. R10: sc around. 18 sts.
11. R11: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 21 sts.
12. R12: sc around. 21 sts.
13. R13: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
14. R14: sc around. 24 sts.
15. R15: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 27 sts.
16. R16: sc around. 27 sts. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Sew the black nose to the narrow end of the muzzle. Add a few black straight stitches across the top of the nose for a textured crochet nose look. Pin the wide end of the muzzle across the lower front of the head, centered between R13 and R21 of the head.

Large Cheek Puffs

The photo has two rounded tan cheek pads that sit on both sides of the muzzle and make the face wide and expressive. Make two identical pieces. Sew them slightly overlapping the back edge of the muzzle.

1. R1: With tan beige, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5-R7: sc around. 24 sts.
6. R8: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
7. R9: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts. Stuff firmly.
8. R10: dec around. 6 sts. FO and close.

Small Chin Patch

1. R1: With tan beige, ch 7.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side of chain, sc 4, inc in last st. 14 sts.
3. R3: inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc 2 times. 20 sts.
4. R4: sc around. 20 sts. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Sew the chin patch under the muzzle so it curves downward. It should touch the lower edge of the cheek puffs and create the tan lower face area visible under the coyote’s mouth.

Yellow Angry Eye Patches

The eyes are yellow oval patches with black pupils, red outer rims, and heavy tan brows. Make two yellow ovals first. The right and left patches should tilt inward at the top for the mischievous coyote expression.

1. R1: With yellow and 2.0 mm hook, ch 7.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side, sc 4, inc in last st. 14 sts.
3. R3: inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc 2 times. 20 sts.
4. R4: sc 1, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 2. 24 sts.
5. R5: Change to red. sl st around loosely. 24 sts. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Sew a black pupil onto each yellow patch using a small circle. For each pupil, make 6 sc in MR with black, sl st to close, and FO. Sew the pupils slightly low and inward. This placement gives the character the focused, cartoon garden look shown in the image.

Thick Raised Eyebrows

The tan eyebrows form a sharp V over the eyes. They are small padded strips, not flat embroidery. Make two, then angle them downward toward the center of the forehead.

1. R1: With tan beige, ch 9.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 8. Turn.
3. R3: ch 1, sc 8. Turn.
4. R4: ch 1, sc 8. FO, leaving a long tail.

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Fold each eyebrow strip lengthwise and whipstitch the long edge closed to make a raised tube. Sew one above each eye, with the inner ends almost touching at the center. Add two dark brown stitches above the V if you want extra shadow.

Red Tongue

1. R1: With red, ch 6.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5. Turn.
3. R3-R6: ch 1, sc 5. Turn.
4. R7: ch 1, dec, sc 1, dec. 3 sts.
5. R8: ch 1, sc 3. FO.

Sew the tongue under the right side of the muzzle, hanging downward between the cheek puff and chin. Use red yarn to add one vertical center stitch if you want a folded tongue detail.

Tall Coyote Ears

The ears are long, pointed, and dramatic. Each ear has a tan inner panel and a dark brown outer border. For best shape, add thin floral wire inside each ear before sewing it closed, but this is optional.

Inner Ear Panels, Make 2

1. R1: With tan beige, ch 4.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 3. Turn.
3. R3: ch 1, inc, sc 1, inc. 5 sts.
4. R4: ch 1, sc 5. Turn.
5. R5: ch 1, inc, sc 3, inc. 7 sts.
6. R6-R15: ch 1, sc 7. Turn.
7. R16: ch 1, dec, sc 3, dec. 5 sts.
8. R17: ch 1, sc 5. Turn.
9. R18: ch 1, dec, sc 1, dec. 3 sts.
10. R19: ch 1, sc 3. Turn.
11. R20: ch 1, sc 3 together. 1 st. FO.

Outer Ear Panels, Make 2

1. R1: With dark brown, ch 5.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 4. Turn.
3. R3: ch 1, inc, sc 2, inc. 6 sts.
4. R4: ch 1, sc 6. Turn.
5. R5: ch 1, inc, sc 4, inc. 8 sts.
6. R6-R18: ch 1, sc 8. Turn.
7. R19: ch 1, dec, sc 4, dec. 6 sts.
8. R20: ch 1, sc 6. Turn.
9. R21: ch 1, dec, sc 2, dec. 4 sts.
10. R22: ch 1, dec twice. 2 sts.
11. R23: ch 1, dec. 1 st. FO.

Place one tan inner ear on top of one dark brown outer ear. Join with dark brown by working sc evenly around the edges through both layers. Work 3 sc into the very top point. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Sew the ears to the top of the head between R5 and R11. Angle each ear outward about 25 degrees from vertical. The inner tan panels face forward. Add extra stitches at the base so the ears stand firmly.

Neck

1. R1: With dark brown, make 8 sc in MR. 8 sts.
2. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 12 sts.
3. R3-R8: sc around. 12 sts.
4. R9: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 16 sts. FO, leaving a long tail.

Stuff the neck firmly. Sew the narrow end to the bottom center of the head. The wider end will be joined to the body. The neck should remain visible above the shirt collar, just like the slim brown neck in the image.

Body and Striped Shirt Base

The torso is narrow at the top and wider at the hips, then covered by blue overalls. The shirt sleeves and upper chest show orange and blue stripes. Work the body in continuous rounds, changing colors as directed.

1. R1: With blue, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7-R10: sc around in blue. 36 sts.
8. R11: Change to orange, sc around. 36 sts.
9. R12: Change to blue, sc around. 36 sts.
10. R13: Change to orange, sc around. 36 sts.
11. R14: Change to blue, sc around. 36 sts.
12. R15: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
13. R16: Change to orange, sc around. 30 sts.
14. R17: Change to blue, sc around. 30 sts.
15. R18: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
16. R19: Change to orange, sc around. 24 sts.
17. R20: Change to blue, sc around. 24 sts.
18. R21: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
19. R22: sc around. 18 sts. Stuff firmly.
20. R23: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts. FO, leaving a long tail.

Sew the neck onto the top of the body. The blue-and-orange shirt stripes should remain visible at the shoulders, sides, and sleeves once the overalls are added.

Blue Garden Overalls Front Bib

The overalls are worked separately and sewn to the body. They include a high front bib, short pants, two straps, round buttons, a white bone applique, and a small patch near one hip.

Front Bib

1. R1: With blue, ch 15.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 14. Turn.
3. R3-R10: ch 1, sc 14. Turn.
4. R11: ch 1, dec, sc 10, dec. 12 sts.
5. R12: ch 1, sc 12. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

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Back Bib

1. R1: With blue, ch 15.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 14. Turn.
3. R3-R7: ch 1, sc 14. Turn.
4. R8: ch 1, dec, sc 10, dec. 12 sts. FO.

Overall Shorts Panel

1. R1: With blue, ch 33.
2. R2: Join to form a ring, being careful not to twist. sc around. 32 sts.
3. R3-R7: sc around. 32 sts.
4. R8: sc 16, ch 2, skip 16, sl st to first sc to divide first leg opening.

For each short leg, attach blue yarn to one opening and work sc 18 around for 5 rounds. FO. Repeat for the second leg opening. The shorts should sit at the upper thighs and leave the long brown legs visible.

Overall Straps, Make 2

1. R1: With tan beige or light brown, ch 23.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 22. Turn.
3. R3: ch 1, sc 22. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Sew the front bib to the front of the torso and the back bib to the back. Sew the shorts around the lower body. Cross or slightly angle the straps from back to front, then sew one small tan button at each front strap end.

White Bone Applique for Bib

1. R1: With white and 2.0 mm hook, ch 9.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 8. Do not turn.
3. R3: At first end, ch 3, 3 dc in same end space, ch 3, sl st into same end space.
4. R4: sl st across the 8 center stitches.
5. R5: At second end, ch 3, 3 dc in same end space, ch 3, sl st into same end space. FO.

Sew the bone horizontally to the center of the blue bib. Use tiny stitches and keep the shape flat. The bone should sit above the belly area, clearly visible like the white motif in the photo.

Small Torn Patch on Overalls

1. R1: With tan beige, ch 6.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5. Turn.
3. R3-R5: ch 1, sc 5. FO.

Sew this patch to the lower left side of the overalls. Use dark brown yarn to embroider short vertical stitches along one edge, making it look like a rough garden repair patch.

Long Arms

The arms are slim and dark brown, with slightly rounded hands. The arms hang straight down along the sides, reaching close to the shorts. Stuff the hands firmly and the arm tubes lightly.

1. R1: With dark brown, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3-R5: sc around. 12 sts.
4. R6: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 9 sts.
5. R7-R25: sc around. 9 sts.
6. R26: flatten the opening and sc 4 through both layers. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Make two arms. Sew each arm at the shoulder line, just under the striped shirt sleeve area. Angle them slightly forward so they frame the body and crossbody pouch naturally.

Long Legs

The legs are narrow, long, and dark brown, with a seated-doll proportion. The thighs disappear into the blue shorts while the lower legs hang over the edge. Stuff the upper half more firmly than the lower half.

1. R1: With dark brown, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
3. R3-R28: sc around. 9 sts.
4. R29: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 12 sts.
5. R30-R33: sc around. 12 sts.
6. R34: flatten and sc 6 through both layers. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Make two legs. Sew them under the blue shorts, about 5 stitches apart at the front lower body. The doll should sit with the legs hanging straight down from the table edge.

Feet and Toes

The sandals reveal rounded dark brown toes at the front. Make two foot bases before adding the sandal soles and straps.

1. R1: With dark brown, ch 8.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side, sc 5, inc in last st. 16 sts.
3. R3: inc, sc 5, inc 3 times, sc 5, inc 2 times. 22 sts.
4. R4-R6: sc around. 22 sts.
5. R7: sc 6, dec 5 times, sc 6. 17 sts.
6. R8: sc 5, dec 3 times, sc 6. 14 sts.
7. R9: sc around. 14 sts. Stuff lightly.
8. R10: flatten back edge and sc 7 through both layers. FO.

For toes, use dark brown yarn and make three small vertical wraps over the front of each foot. Pull gently to divide the toe bumps. Sew the feet to the bottom of the legs before adding sandal straps.

Brown Sandals

Sandal Soles, Make 2

1. R1: With medium brown, ch 10.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 8, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side, sc 7, inc in last st. 20 sts.
3. R3: inc, sc 7, inc 3 times, sc 7, inc 2 times. 26 sts.
4. R4: BLO sc around. 26 sts.
5. R5: sc around. 26 sts. FO.

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Sandal Front Straps, Make 2

1. R1: With dark brown, ch 11.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 10. FO.

Sandal Ankle Straps, Make 2

1. R1: With dark brown, ch 15.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 14. FO.

Sew one sole under each foot. Sew one front strap across the toes and one ankle strap across the top of the foot. Embroider a tiny blue-and-white bird-shaped decoration on each sandal strap using two blue stitches and one white stitch.

Short Striped Sleeves

The sleeves are small tubes sewn around the tops of the arms. They match the orange-and-blue shirt stripes on the torso and make the clothing look layered under the overalls.

1. R1: With orange, ch 13 and join to form a ring. 12 sts.
2. R2: sc around in orange. 12 sts.
3. R3: Change to blue, sc around. 12 sts.
4. R4: Change to orange, sc around. 12 sts.
5. R5: Change to blue, sc around. 12 sts. FO.

Make two sleeves. Slide each sleeve over the top of an arm before sewing the arm securely, or stitch the sleeve tube around the shoulder after the arm is attached.

ACME Crossbody Pouch

The pouch is a small square brown satchel worn across the body. It sits on the right hip and has a flap with the word ACME on the front. Use firm tension so the pouch keeps a neat box shape.

Pouch Front and Back, Make 2

1. R1: With medium brown, ch 10.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 9. Turn.
3. R3-R10: ch 1, sc 9. Turn.
4. R11: sc evenly around all four edges, placing 2 sc in each corner. FO on first panel only. Leave a long tail on second panel.

Pouch Side Strip

1. R1: With medium brown, ch 33.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 32. Turn.
3. R3-R4: ch 1, sc 32. FO.

Sew the side strip around the back panel, then sew the front panel to the remaining edge of the strip. Stuff very lightly or insert a small square of folded yarn. The pouch should be flat but dimensional.

Pouch Flap

1. R1: With light brown, ch 10.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 9. Turn.
3. R3-R5: ch 1, sc 9. Turn.
4. R6: ch 1, dec, sc 5, dec. 7 sts. FO.

Sew the flap to the top back edge of the pouch and fold it forward. With black yarn, embroider ACME across the flap. Keep the letters small and blocky so they fit within the square shape.

Crossbody Strap

1. R1: With medium brown, ch 55.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 54. FO, leaving a long tail.

Sew one end of the strap to the top left of the pouch and the other end to the top right. Place the strap from the doll’s left shoulder to the right hip, then tack it to the body at the shoulder and pouch edge.

Head Cactus Pot

A tiny terracotta pot with a green cactus sits between the tall ears. This accessory is small but important because it gives the piece the garden theme shown in the image.

Tiny Pot

1. R1: With terracotta brown, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: BLO sc around. 12 sts.
4. R4: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
5. R5-R7: sc around. 18 sts.
6. R8: FLO sc around for rim. 18 sts.
7. R9: sl st around loosely. FO.

Main Cactus Stem

1. R1: With green, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
3. R3-R9: sc around. 9 sts.
4. R10: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 6 sts. FO.

Small Cactus Arms, Make 2

1. R1: With green, make 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. R2-R5: sc around. 5 sts. FO.

Sew the arms to the cactus stem at different heights. Place the cactus inside the pot and sew through the bottom to secure it. Add a tiny pale gray flower by making ch 4, sl st into the first ch, repeat three times, then FO and sew to the cactus top.

Potted Garden Cactus Accessory

The small cactus on the table uses the same idea but is wider and more visible. It sits in a terracotta pot next to the TNT blocks.

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Table Pot

1. R1: With terracotta brown, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
5. R5: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
6. R6-R9: sc around. 24 sts.
7. R10: FLO sc around. 24 sts.
8. R11: sl st around. FO.

Large Cactus Stem

1. R1: With green, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3-R13: sc around. 12 sts.
4. R14: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 8 sts. FO.

Curved Cactus Arms, Make 2

1. R1: With green, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2-R6: sc around. 6 sts.
3. R7: sc 3, turn without chaining, sc 3, turn, sc 3. FO.

Sew the arms to the sides of the cactus. The short shaping row makes each arm bend upward. Add tiny cream straight stitches on the cactus for soft thorns. Sew the cactus into the pot and lightly stuff the pot base.

TNT Blocks

The photo shows three small TNT crates beside the cactus: two at the bottom and one red-topped block stacked above. Make three cubes using the same base pattern, changing the top color for the upper block.

Cube Panels, Make 6 for Each Block

1. R1: With medium brown or red for the top block top panel, ch 8.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7. Turn.
3. R3-R8: ch 1, sc 7. Turn.
4. R9: sc evenly around the square, placing 2 sc in each corner. FO.

For each TNT block, sew six square panels together into a cube. Insert a small cube of stuffing or folded felt before closing the final side. Use medium brown for crate-style blocks and red for the top cap of the stacked block.

TNT Label

1. R1: With white and 2.0 mm hook, ch 8.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7. Turn.
3. R3-R4: ch 1, sc 7. FO.

Make one white label for the front of each cube. Sew it centered on the cube face. With black yarn, embroider TNT using straight stitches. Add a single black line above and below the letters if space allows.

Straw Garden Hat

The straw hat rests beside the doll. It has a wide flat brim, raised crown, red band, and a small red dynamite roll tied to one side. Use tan beige or straw-colored yarn and keep the brim flat.

Hat Crown

1. R1: With tan beige, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: BLO sc around. 24 sts.
6. R6-R10: sc around. 24 sts.
7. R11: FLO sc around. 24 sts.

Hat Brim

1. R12: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
2. R13: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
3. R14: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
4. R15: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
5. R16: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts.
6. R17: sc around. 54 sts.
7. R18: sl st around loosely. FO.

To add the spiral straw texture, surface slip stitch around the crown in tan yarn, working in a gentle spiral from the top to the brim. Do not pull too tightly or the hat will curl.

Red Hat Band

1. R1: With red, ch 28.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 27. FO.

Wrap the red band around the base of the crown and sew it in place. The band should sit just above the brim and look like a clean ribbon.

Small Red Dynamite Roll on Hat

1. R1: With red, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
3. R3-R8: sc around. 9 sts.
4. R9: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 6 sts. FO and close.

Sew the small red roll to one side of the hat band. Add a short black yarn fuse and one orange stitch at the tip. Keep it decorative and soft, matching the playful crochet prop in the image.

Optional Tail

The pictured doll is seated with the body front visible, so a tail is not prominent. If you want a hidden back detail, make a slim dark brown tail with a tan tip and sew it behind the overalls.

1. R1: With tan beige, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
3. R3-R5: sc around. 9 sts.
4. R6: Change to dark brown, sc around. 9 sts.
5. R7-R22: sc around. 9 sts.
6. R23: flatten and sc 4 through both layers. FO.

Sew the tail to the lower back before attaching the overalls back panel, or let it peek out from behind the shorts. Curve it slightly downward so the doll can still sit.

Facial Placement Guide

• Sew the muzzle centered from head R12 to R21.
• Sew cheek puffs to both sides of the muzzle, with their centers around head R16.
• Sew the yellow eye patches above the muzzle, between head R9 and R15.
• Place the inner corners of the eyes closer together than the outer corners.
• Sew the tan eyebrows in a sharp inward V, partly overlapping the red eye rims.
• Sew the tongue under the right cheek and muzzle edge.
• Sew the ears high on the head between R5 and R11, tilted outward.

Clothing Placement Guide

• The orange-and-blue shirt stripes should show at the shoulders, sleeves, and upper chest.
• The blue overall bib should cover the front torso from lower chest to belly.
• The white bone applique sits centered on the bib.
• The tan patch sits low on the left side of the overalls.
• The brown pouch hangs diagonally from left shoulder to right hip.
• The pouch front should face forward, with ACME readable.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Sew the neck to the head and body first. Check that the doll can sit upright before adding heavy details.
2. Attach the muzzle, cheeks, chin, eye patches, pupils, eyebrows, and tongue in that order.
3. Sew the ears firmly and add extra hidden stitches at the base for strength.
4. Attach arms at the shoulder line, then sew or slide on the striped sleeves.
5. Attach legs under the shorts and sew the feet to the leg ends.
6. Add sandal soles, straps, toe shaping, and tiny blue-white sandal decorations.
7. Sew the overalls to the body, then add straps, buttons, bone applique, and patch.
8. Place the ACME pouch strap across the body and tack it with a few invisible stitches.
9. Sew the tiny cactus pot between the ears, centered and slightly behind the brow line.
10. Arrange the potted cactus, TNT blocks, and straw hat beside the doll for the full garden scene.

Use tan yarn to add two small whisker dots on each side of the muzzle if desired. Use dark brown yarn to add a few short brow creases above the eyes. These final stitches make the face look alert, determined, and close to the photographed character style.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Both ears stand tall and angle outward evenly.
• The muzzle points forward and does not twist to one side.
• The cheek puffs are round, full, and symmetrical.
• The eyes tilt inward with a strong V-shaped brow.
• The tongue hangs from one side of the mouth.
• The overalls have visible buttons, straps, white bone, and patch.
• The ACME pouch hangs across the body and sits on the hip.
• The cactus pot is centered between the ears.
• The TNT blocks have clear white labels and black letters.
• The straw hat has a red band and small red roll detail.

Care Notes

This amigurumi is best used as a decorative handmade doll, not as a toy for very young children. Small buttons, embroidered details, wired parts, and separate accessories can loosen with rough handling. If making for a child, embroider all details and avoid wire, buttons, and removable props.

• Spot clean gently with cool water and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if the doll has wire, cardboard, buttons, or shaped props.
• Press with a towel to remove extra moisture.
• Air dry flat in a shaded place.
• Do not tumble dry.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the shape, clean only the stained area with a damp cloth. Avoid soaking the head, ears, pouch, TNT blocks, and hat because structured pieces may soften or lose their shape. Let every piece dry completely before storing.

Store the doll sitting upright or lying flat with the ears supported. Keep it away from direct sunlight to prevent fading, especially the blue overalls, red TNT labels, and yellow eye patches. If the ears bend, gently reshape them with your fingers and let them rest flat overnight.

For long-term display, place the doll and accessories in a dust-free shelf or clear display box. Brush dust away with a clean soft makeup brush. Do not pull on the cactus pot, pouch strap, sandal straps, or tongue because these smaller pieces are decorative and carefully sewn.

Finishing Notes

Your crochet coyote garden doll is now complete with his tall ears, expressive face, blue overalls, striped shirt, ACME pouch, cactus head pot, TNT blocks, table cactus, sandals, and straw hat. Arrange the accessories around him to recreate the playful summer garden scene from the image.