Crochet Tutorial: Odie Garden Overall Doll – Free Crochet Pattern.

This cheerful crochet garden overall doll features a tall orange-yellow dog character with floppy brown ears, oversized white eyes, a long red tongue, striped blue-and-green overalls, yellow buttons, red heart patches, brown sandals, and a green bow. The full set also includes a blue sun hat, a red shoulder bag with a yellow flower, a small bone, and a tiny blue-and-green yarn ball.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

• Main doll: about 15.5 inches tall from sandal sole to ear tip when made with worsted weight yarn and a 2.75 mm hook.
• Head width: about 3.25 inches across the cheeks.
• Body with overalls: about 5 inches tall from shoulder to shorts hem.
• Legs: long and slim, about 5 inches from shorts hem to sandal sole.
• Hat: about 5.5 inches wide across the brim.
• Bag: about 3 inches wide, with a long red strap.

Skill Level

This pattern is suitable for an adventurous beginner or intermediate crocheter. Most pieces use single crochet in continuous rounds. The small details, face shaping, color changes, and assembly angles require patience, but every section is written with exact stitch counts.

Materials

• Worsted weight yarn in golden yellow, bright orange, white, brown, black, red, blue, green, light yellow, cream, and small amounts of darker yellow.
• 2.75 mm crochet hook for the doll and accessories.
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for the small facial details and flower.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Two 9 mm black safety eyes.
• Two small yellow buttons for the overall straps.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Black embroidery thread for mouth lines, toe lines, and eye separation.
• Optional pipe cleaner or craft wire for the ears and bag strap. Use only if the finished item is decorative and not for small children.

Abbreviations Used

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st: stitch
• sts: stitches
• R: round
• FO: fasten off

Gauge and Tension

For the neat rounded shape seen in the photo, keep your stitches tight enough that stuffing does not show through. With worsted weight yarn and a 2.75 mm hook, 8 sc should measure about 1 inch across. If your doll becomes too soft or floppy, go down one hook size.

The head, muzzle, eyes, and overalls must be firm because they carry the expression and silhouette. Stuff the long neck and legs especially well. The doll should sit upright with the legs hanging straight over the table edge, just like the pictured sample.

Important Construction Notes

• Work most pieces in continuous spiral rounds unless a joined round is clearly stated.
• Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round.
• The doll is built from the feet upward, then the head, eyes, ears, tongue, and accessories are attached.
• The overalls are worked as separate shorts first, then joined into one striped body piece.
• Change colors by completing the final yarn-over of the last stitch with the new color.
• For the striped overalls, carry yarn loosely on the inside or cut yarn at every change for a cleaner finish.

Color Plan

• Bright orange: legs, arms, neck, and lower face sides.
• Golden yellow: muzzle, cheeks, head base, and small face sides.
• White: eyes and shirt sleeves.
• Brown: ears, sandal soles, sandal straps, and ear base.
• Blue and green: overalls, hat, tiny yarn ball, and bow.
• Red: tongue, purse, and heart patches.
• Black: nose, mouth opening, eye divider, and toe details.
• Cream: bone.

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Legs and Feet

Make two long orange legs. The legs are slim tubes, slightly thicker at the sandal area. The sandals are brown with open orange toes and small yellow buckle details.

Orange Foot Base

Make two using bright orange.

1. R1: Ch 6. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch. Work on the other side of the chain, sc 3, inc in last ch. Total: 12 sts.
2. R2: Inc, sc 3, inc 3, sc 3, inc 2. Total: 18 sts.
3. R3: Sc 1, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 1, inc. Total: 24 sts.
4. R4: BLO sc around. Total: 24 sts.
5. R5: Sc 6, dec 6, sc 6. Total: 18 sts.
6. R6: Sc 5, dec 4, sc 5. Total: 14 sts.
7. R7: Sc around. Total: 14 sts.

Stuff the toe area lightly. The front should be rounded and flat enough to show the sandal strap later.

Long Orange Leg

Continue from the foot using bright orange.

1. R8: Sc 12, dec. Total: 13 sts.
2. R9: Sc around. Total: 13 sts.
3. R10: Sc 11, dec. Total: 12 sts.
4. R11-R34: Sc around for 24 rounds. Total: 12 sts each round.

Stuff the leg firmly every few rounds. The leg should stay long, straight, and narrow. FO the first leg. Do not fasten off the second leg if you want to join directly into the shorts later. For easier beginners, finish both legs separately and sew them into the shorts openings.

Brown Sandal Sole Rim

Using brown, join yarn to any FLO loop left from R4 of the orange foot. Work 1 sc in each front loop around. Sl st to the first sc and FO. This creates the brown rim around the sandal sole.

Sandal Bottom Sole

Make two using brown.

1. R1: Ch 6. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, work on other side, sc 3, inc. Total: 12 sts.
2. R2: Inc, sc 3, inc 3, sc 3, inc 2. Total: 18 sts.
3. R3: Sc 1, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 1, inc. Total: 24 sts.

Hold the brown sole under the orange foot. Sew the sole to the brown rim, matching the toe and heel evenly. Keep the seam flat so the sandals look neat from the front.

Sandal Front Strap

Make two using brown.

1. Ch 12.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 11.
3. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Place the strap across the front of the orange toes, about 3 rounds back from the tip. Sew each end to the side of the sandal. The strap should curve slightly and sit just above the toe area.

Yellow Buckle Loops

Make two using darker yellow.

1. Ch 8.
2. Sl st into the first ch to form a small ring.
3. Work 10 sc into the ring.
4. FO and flatten into a small oval.

Sew one buckle oval to the outer side of each sandal strap. Place each buckle near the outside edge, not centered on the foot.

Toe Lines

Using black embroidery thread, stitch three short vertical toe lines on the front of each orange foot. Place the lines under the brown strap so they peek out from the open sandal.

Striped Garden Overalls

The overalls are short, slightly boxy, and striped in blue and green. They sit high on the body with a square bib, two straps, two yellow buttons, and red heart patches. The legs of the shorts should be wide enough to sit over the long orange legs.

First Shorts Leg

Use blue for R1 and follow the stripe plan carefully.

1. R1: Ch 18, sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Be careful not to twist. Sc 18 around. Total: 18 sts.
2. R2: With blue, sc around. Total: 18 sts.
3. R3: Change to green, sc around. Total: 18 sts.
4. R4: Change to blue, sc around. Total: 18 sts.
5. R5: Change to green, sc around. Total: 18 sts.
6. R6: Change to blue, sc around. Total: 18 sts.
7. FO the first shorts leg.

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Second Shorts Leg

Repeat R1-R6 for the second shorts leg, but do not fasten off at the end. Continue to join both shorts legs.

Joining the Shorts

1. R7: With blue, sc 18 around the second shorts leg, ch 3 for the crotch bridge, sc 18 around the first shorts leg, ch 3 for the back crotch bridge. Total: 42 sts.
2. R8: Sc around all 42 sts, working into each chain. Total: 42 sts.
3. R9: Change to green, sc around. Total: 42 sts.
4. R10: Change to blue, sc around. Total: 42 sts.
5. R11: Change to green, sc 5, dec, repeat around. Total: 36 sts.
6. R12: Change to blue, sc around. Total: 36 sts.
7. R13: Change to green, sc 4, dec, repeat around. Total: 30 sts.
8. R14: Change to blue, sc around. Total: 30 sts.
9. R15: Change to green, sc 3, dec, repeat around. Total: 24 sts.
10. R16: Change to blue, sc around. Total: 24 sts.

Stuff the lower body lightly. Keep the shorts flat and rectangular instead of round like a ball. The pictured overalls have a soft square shape with straight sides.

White Shirt Waist and Torso

Attach white yarn at the top of the overalls.

1. R17: BLO sc around in white. Total: 24 sts.
2. R18: Sc around. Total: 24 sts.
3. R19: Sc 2, dec, repeat around. Total: 18 sts.
4. R20: Sc around. Total: 18 sts.
5. R21: Sc 1, dec, repeat around. Total: 12 sts.

Stuff the torso firmly. Do not overstuff the white shirt area because the neck must sit straight above it.

Orange Neck

Change to bright orange.

1. R22: BLO sc around. Total: 12 sts.
2. R23-R31: Sc around for 9 rounds. Total: 12 sts each round.
3. R32: Sc 2, dec, repeat around. Total: 9 sts.
4. R33: Sc around. Total: 9 sts.

The neck should be long and slim. Stuff very firmly with small pieces of fiberfill. The head is large, so a firm neck is important to prevent wobbling.

Overall Bib

Using green, work a small front bib separately.

1. Row 1: Ch 13. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 12. Ch 1, turn.
2. Row 2: Sc 12. Ch 1, turn.
3. Row 3: Change to blue, sc 12. Ch 1, turn.
4. Row 4: Change to green, sc 12. Ch 1, turn.
5. Row 5: Sc 12. FO, leaving a long tail.

Sew the bib to the front center of the overalls. Place the lower edge of the bib on R13 of the overall body. The top edge should reach the white shirt line, just below the neck.

Overall Straps

Make two using blue.

1. Ch 22.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 21.
3. FO, leaving long tails.

Attach one strap to the top left corner of the bib. Bring it over the shoulder and sew the other end to the back of the overalls near R16. Repeat on the other side. The straps should angle outward slightly, forming a soft V shape on the front.

Yellow Buttons

Use two small yellow buttons or crochet buttons. To crochet the buttons, make two using yellow.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. Total: 6 sts.
2. Sl st to first sc and FO.

Sew one button at the top of each strap where it meets the bib. The buttons should sit directly below the shoulders and be visible from the front.

Red Heart Patches

The pictured doll has a red heart on the center of the bib and another red heart patch on the lower right leg of the overalls. Make two small hearts using red yarn and a 2.5 mm hook.

Small Heart

1. Into MR work: ch 2, 3 dc, 3 hdc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 3 hdc, 3 dc, ch 2, sl st into MR.
2. Pull the ring tight.
3. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Sew the first heart centered on the green-and-blue bib. Sew the second heart on the lower right shorts leg, about 2 rounds above the hem. Shape the point of each heart downward with one small red anchoring stitch.

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Arms

The arms are long, orange, and rounded at the ends. Each arm emerges from a short white sleeve. Make two.

Orange Hand and Arm

1. R1: With bright orange, 6 sc in MR. Total: 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. Total: 12 sts.
3. R3-R5: Sc around. Total: 12 sts each round.
4. R6: Sc 4, dec, sc 4, dec. Total: 10 sts.
5. R7-R24: Sc around for 18 rounds. Total: 10 sts each round.

Stuff the hand firmly and the arm lightly. The arm should hang straight down at the sides.

White Sleeve Cuff

Change to white.

1. R25: BLO sc around. Total: 10 sts.
2. R26: Sc around. Total: 10 sts.
3. R27: Sc 3, dec, repeat twice. Total: 8 sts.

Flatten the top opening and sc through both layers with 4 sc to close. FO, leaving a long tail. Sew the arms to the white shirt sides at R19-R20. Angle them downward so they rest naturally beside the overalls.

Head Base

The head is tall and narrow with a rounded yellow muzzle area, large white eyes, side cheeks, and a long open mouth area. Work the main head in golden yellow first.

1. R1: With golden yellow, 6 sc in MR. Total: 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. Total: 12 sts.
3. R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. Total: 18 sts.
4. R4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. Total: 24 sts.
5. R5: Sc 3, inc, repeat around. Total: 30 sts.
6. R6: Sc 4, inc, repeat around. Total: 36 sts.
7. R7-R11: Sc around. Total: 36 sts each round.
8. R12: Sc 10, dec, repeat around. Total: 33 sts.
9. R13-R15: Sc around. Total: 33 sts each round.
10. R16: Sc 9, dec, repeat around. Total: 30 sts.
11. R17-R18: Sc around. Total: 30 sts each round.
12. R19: Sc 3, dec, repeat around. Total: 24 sts.
13. R20: Sc 2, dec, repeat around. Total: 18 sts.
14. R21: Sc 1, dec, repeat around. Total: 12 sts.

Stuff the head firmly. Do not close yet if you want to adjust the neck connection from inside. The head should be slightly pear-shaped, with more fullness around the muzzle and cheek area.

Long Rounded Muzzle

The muzzle is yellow and protrudes forward below the eyes. It is wide, soft, and rounded like a horizontal oval.

1. R1: With golden yellow, ch 7. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, work on other side, sc 4, inc. Total: 14 sts.
2. R2: Inc, sc 4, inc 3, sc 4, inc 2. Total: 20 sts.
3. R3: Sc 1, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 1, inc. Total: 26 sts.
4. R4-R7: Sc around. Total: 26 sts each round.
5. R8: Sc 5, dec, sc 12, dec, sc 5. Total: 24 sts.

Stuff the muzzle firmly. Pin it across the lower front of the head, with the top edge beginning around R8 of the head and the lower edge ending around R16. Sew all around. Shape the muzzle so it sticks forward, not downward.

Cheek Puffs

The yellow side cheek puffs sit on both sides of the muzzle under the eyes. Make two.

1. R1: With golden yellow, 6 sc in MR. Total: 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. Total: 12 sts.
3. R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. Total: 18 sts.
4. R4-R5: Sc around. Total: 18 sts each round.
5. R6: Sc 1, dec, repeat around. Total: 12 sts.

Stuff lightly. Sew one cheek to each side of the muzzle, slightly behind the front center. They should be visible as rounded yellow side bumps beneath the large eyes.

Large White Eyes

The eyes are oversized vertical ovals. They touch each other in the center, creating the famous surprised expression. Make two using white yarn.

1. R1: Ch 7. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, work on other side, sc 4, inc. Total: 14 sts.
2. R2: Inc, sc 4, inc 3, sc 4, inc 2. Total: 20 sts.
3. R3: Sc 1, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 1, inc. Total: 26 sts.
4. R4: Sc 2, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 2, inc. Total: 32 sts.
5. R5-R7: Sc around. Total: 32 sts each round.
6. R8: Sc 6, dec, repeat around. Total: 28 sts.

Stuff each eye moderately. Flatten the back slightly with your fingers before sewing. Place both eyes vertically on the upper face so they touch along the center line. The lower edge of each eye should sit just above the muzzle. Sew securely all around.

Safety Eye Placement

Insert one 9 mm safety eye into each white eye before final sewing if possible. Place each safety eye between R4 and R5 of the eye piece, slightly lower than center and slightly toward the inner side. This creates the upward, goofy expression shown in the photo.

Center Eye Divider

Using black embroidery thread, sew a straight vertical line between the two white eyes. Begin at the top where the eyes meet and stitch downward to the top of the muzzle. Use two or three long stitches and keep the line thin.

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Black Nose

The nose is small, black, oval, and sits centered on top of the yellow muzzle, just under the eyes.

1. R1: With black and a 2.5 mm hook, 6 sc in MR. Total: 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. Total: 12 sts.
3. R3: Sc around. Total: 12 sts.
4. R4: Sc 1, dec, repeat around. Total: 8 sts.

Stuff with a tiny pinch of fiberfill. FO, leaving a long tail. Sew the nose to the center front of the muzzle. Flatten it slightly into an oval as you sew.

Open Black Mouth

The open mouth is a black oval on the lower left side beneath the muzzle. It should look like a soft opening behind the tongue.

1. With black yarn, ch 8.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 6, 3 sc in last ch, work on other side, sc 5, inc. Total: 16 sts.
3. R2: Inc, sc 5, inc 3, sc 5, inc 2. Total: 22 sts.
4. FO, leaving a long tail.

Sew the black oval vertically under the left side of the muzzle. The top should tuck slightly under the muzzle edge. The lower part should remain visible beside the tongue.

Long Red Tongue

The red tongue hangs from the mouth and curves forward. It is long, rounded, and slightly flattened.

1. R1: With red, 6 sc in MR. Total: 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. Total: 12 sts.
3. R3-R13: Sc around. Total: 12 sts each round.
4. R14: Sc 4, dec, repeat twice. Total: 10 sts.
5. R15: Sc around. Total: 10 sts.

Stuff very lightly only at the rounded lower tip. Flatten the upper part. Sew the top of the tongue inside the lower black mouth opening. Let it hang downward along the front of the neck. Add two small red stitches at the side if you want it to curve gently toward the viewer.

Floppy Brown Ears

The ears are long, brown, rounded, and floppy. They start high on top of the head and bend outward. Make two.

1. R1: With brown, 6 sc in MR. Total: 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. Total: 12 sts.
3. R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. Total: 18 sts.
4. R4-R6: Sc around. Total: 18 sts each round.
5. R7: Sc 4, dec, repeat around. Total: 15 sts.
6. R8-R13: Sc around. Total: 15 sts each round.
7. R14: Sc 3, dec, repeat around. Total: 12 sts.
8. R15-R20: Sc around. Total: 12 sts each round.
9. R21: Sc 2, dec, repeat around. Total: 9 sts.
10. R22-R24: Sc around. Total: 9 sts each round.

Stuff only the lower half very lightly. Leave the top soft so the ears can bend. Flatten the opening and sc through both layers with 4 sc to close. FO, leaving a long tail.

Sew one ear to each side of the top of the head between R2 and R5 of the head. Angle the bases upward, then curve the tips outward and down. The left ear should lean slightly left. The right ear should lean slightly right and sit behind the green bow.

Green Bow on Ear

The bow is small and sits near the base of one brown ear. Use green yarn.

Bow Loops

1. Ch 10.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 9. Ch 1, turn.
3. Row 2: Sc 9. Ch 1, turn.
4. Row 3: Sc 9. FO.

Wrap yarn around the center of the rectangle 8 to 10 times to pinch it into a bow. Tie securely at the back.

Bow Center

1. Ch 5.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 4.
3. FO, leaving a tail.

Wrap the small strip around the center of the bow and sew in place. Attach the bow to the dog’s right ear base, slightly to the front.

Attaching Head to Neck

Pin the head to the orange neck before sewing. The head should sit tall, with the muzzle facing forward and the tongue hanging over the front of the chest. The neck enters the lower back of the head, not the exact center, because the muzzle is heavy.

Sew the neck to the bottom of the head using strong orange or yellow stitches. Go around the seam twice. Add more stuffing into the neck before closing the final gap. The finished head should stand upright without leaning too far forward.

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Blue Garden Sun Hat

The hat is a separate accessory placed beside the doll in the image. It has a rounded blue crown, a wide blue brim, and a green band around the base.

Hat Crown

1. R1: With blue, 6 sc in MR. Total: 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. Total: 12 sts.
3. R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. Total: 18 sts.
4. R4: Sc 2, inc, repeat around. Total: 24 sts.
5. R5: Sc 3, inc, repeat around. Total: 30 sts.
6. R6: Sc 4, inc, repeat around. Total: 36 sts.
7. R7: Sc 5, inc, repeat around. Total: 42 sts.
8. R8: Sc 6, inc, repeat around. Total: 48 sts.
9. R9-R17: Sc around. Total: 48 sts each round.

Stuffing is not needed for the hat. Shape the crown with your fingers so it becomes dome-like.

Green Hat Band

Change to green.

1. R18: BLO sc around. Total: 48 sts.
2. R19: Sc around. Total: 48 sts.

Blue Hat Brim

Change back to blue.

1. R20: FLO sc 1, inc, repeat around. Total: 72 sts.
2. R21: Sc around. Total: 72 sts.
3. R22: Sc 5, inc, repeat around. Total: 84 sts.
4. R23: Sc around. Total: 84 sts.
5. R24: Sc 6, inc, repeat around. Total: 96 sts.
6. R25: Sc around. Total: 96 sts.
7. R26: Sl st loosely around. Total: 96 sts.

FO and weave in the end. Flatten the brim gently so it spreads outward like the blue hat in the picture.

Red Shoulder Bag

The bag is red, rectangular, and rounded at the corners. It has a flap, a long red strap, and a small yellow flower on the front.

Bag Body

1. R1: With red, ch 13. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 11, 3 sc in last ch, work on other side, sc 10, inc. Total: 26 sts.
2. R2: Inc, sc 10, inc 3, sc 10, inc 2. Total: 32 sts.
3. R3: BLO sc around. Total: 32 sts.
4. R4-R10: Sc around. Total: 32 sts each round.
5. R11: Sc 8, dec, sc 12, dec, sc 8. Total: 30 sts.
6. R12: Sc around. Total: 30 sts.

Stuff lightly or insert a small folded yarn scrap to keep the bag shape flat. Do not overstuff because the bag should sit like a soft purse.

Bag Flap

Work back and forth across the back 14 stitches of the bag opening.

1. Row 1: Join red yarn to the back center. Sc 14. Ch 1, turn.
2. Row 2: Sc 14. Ch 1, turn.
3. Row 3: Dec, sc 10, dec. Total: 12 sts. Ch 1, turn.
4. Row 4: Sc 12. Ch 1, turn.
5. Row 5: Dec, sc 8, dec. Total: 10 sts.
6. Row 6: Sc 10. FO.

Fold the flap over the front of the bag and sew the lower corners lightly so it stays closed.

Bag Strap

1. With red, ch 70.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st in each ch across. Total: 69 sl sts.
3. FO, leaving tails at both ends.

Sew one end of the strap to each side of the bag. The strap should be long enough to curve behind the doll like the photo.

Yellow Flower on Bag

Use light yellow and a 2.5 mm hook.

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. Sl st to first sc.
2. Petals: Ch 2, 2 dc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st. Repeat in each of the 5 sts.
3. FO, leaving a tail.

Sew the flower to the center of the red flap. Use one tiny red stitch in the middle if you want a defined flower center.

Crochet Bone

The small cream bone sits beside the doll. It is made from two rounded ends joined by a narrow center.

Bone End

Make four small balls using cream yarn.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. Total: 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. Total: 12 sts.
3. R3: Sc around. Total: 12 sts.
4. R4: Sc 1, dec, repeat around. Total: 8 sts.

Stuff lightly. FO the first three balls. Do not fasten off the fourth ball if you want to join directly.

Bone Center

1. Hold two balls together and sew them side by side to form one bone end.
2. Attach cream yarn between the two balls. Ch 8.
3. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7. Ch 1, turn.
4. Row 2: Sc 7. Ch 1, turn.
5. Row 3: Sc 7. FO.

Sew the remaining two balls to the opposite end of the center strip. Shape the ends with your fingers so the bone has four rounded knobs and a narrow middle.

Tiny Blue and Green Yarn Ball

The small yarn ball is round with blue center lines and green edging. It sits beside the bag.

1. R1: With blue, 6 sc in MR. Total: 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. Total: 12 sts.
3. R3: Sc 1, inc, repeat around. Total: 18 sts.
4. R4-R5: Sc around. Total: 18 sts each round.
5. R6: Change to green, sc around. Total: 18 sts.
6. R7: Sc 1, dec, repeat around. Total: 12 sts.
7. R8: Dec around. Total: 6 sts.

Stuff firmly. Close the hole and FO. Using blue yarn, embroider two curved lines around the ball. Add one green line crossing the opposite direction to mimic wrapped yarn.

Facial Embroidery Details

The face depends on careful placement. The white eyes should touch in the center, the black nose should sit low between the eyes, and the red tongue should hang from the black mouth opening. Use pins first before sewing anything permanently.

• Use black thread to make a fine vertical line between the eyes.
• Use black yarn to secure the nose with small oval shaping stitches.
• Place the black mouth oval slightly left of center under the muzzle.
• Sew the tongue into the mouth opening so it covers part of the black oval but does not hide it fully.
• Add one small black stitch at the top of the tongue if you want a stronger mouth crease.

Body Assembly

1. Insert the two orange legs into the shorts openings. The feet should face forward and point slightly outward.
2. Sew each leg securely inside the shorts hem using matching blue or green yarn.
3. Attach the white shirt and orange neck section if you made it separately. Keep the neck centered.
4. Sew the arms to the sides of the white shirt. The sleeve tops should sit just below the straps.
5. Sew the bib to the front center of the overalls.
6. Add the straps from the bib corners over the shoulders to the back.
7. Sew the yellow buttons on top of the front straps.
8. Attach the heart patches, one on the bib and one on the lower right shorts leg.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Place the head on the neck and check the balance before sewing. The muzzle, eyes, and ears create extra weight, so the neck must be packed firmly. Sew around the neck seam twice, then add a few hidden stitches from the back of the head into the neck for support.

Attach the ears after the eyes and muzzle are fully sewn. Pin them high on the head and bend the tips outward. Sew the green bow at the base of the right ear. Add the tongue last so you can adjust the angle and length after the face is complete.

Finish the sandals by checking that both feet hang evenly. Embroider the toe lines after the sandal straps are sewn. Place the hat, bag, bone, and yarn ball around the doll to recreate the garden table scene from the image.

Care Notes

• Spot clean gently with a damp cloth and mild soap.
• Do not soak if using safety eyes, buttons, wire, or glued details.
• Reshape the ears, hat brim, and tongue while damp if needed.
• Let the doll air dry completely before storing.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The eyes are large, white, vertical, and touching at the center.
• The black center line between the eyes is straight and thin.
• The muzzle is rounded and protrudes forward.
• The tongue hangs from the mouth and reaches toward the upper chest.
• The ears are brown, floppy, and curved outward.
• The overalls have visible blue-and-green stripes.
• The bib has two yellow buttons and a red heart.
• The right shorts leg has a second red heart patch.
• The sandals have brown straps, yellow buckles, and black toe lines.
• The blue hat, red bag, bone, and tiny yarn ball are included.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the doll away from direct sunlight to protect the bright orange, yellow, red, blue, and green yarn colors. If the doll is displayed on a shelf, gently dust it with a soft brush every few weeks.

For long-term storage, wrap the doll loosely in acid-free tissue or a clean cotton cloth. Do not compress the ears, tongue, hat brim, or bag strap. Keep the accessories in a small breathable pouch so they do not get lost.

If the doll becomes misshapen, gently roll the stuffed areas between your hands. Smooth the muzzle, cheeks, and eyes with light pressure. Re-pin the ears overnight if you want them to hold a curved floppy shape again.

Keep this finished crochet doll as a decorative handmade item. If it will be handled by children, replace small buttons and safety eyes with embroidered details and avoid using internal wire.