Crochet Tutorial: Cottage Lamb Girl in Pink Floral Dress with Turquoise Vest and Picnic Accessories – Free Crochet Pattern.

This charming cottage lamb girl wears a soft pink floral dress, a textured turquoise vest, a mustard scarf, a matching flowered crossbody bag, and pink strap shoes. Her outfit is completed with a turquoise cloche hat, embroidered daisies, a miniature picnic basket, and a tiny frosted cupcake.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern creates a tall, softly structured lamb doll with an elongated neck, oval head, large dimensional eyes, cream muzzle, asymmetrical ears, long limbs, and a gently rounded body. The clothing and accessories are made separately so their positioning can be adjusted during final assembly.

• Skill level: Intermediate or confident adventurous beginner
• Finished standing length: Approximately 20 to 21 inches, or 51 to 53 cm
• Approximate seated height: 16 to 17 inches, or 41 to 43 cm
• Construction: Mostly worked in continuous rounds
• US crochet terminology: Used throughout
• Recommended hook: 3.0 mm

Materials

• DK or light worsted-weight yarn in medium warm gray, approximately 100 g
• DK yarn in cream or warm ivory, approximately 45 g
• DK yarn in dark chocolate brown, approximately 25 g
• DK yarn in dusty blush pink, approximately 85 g
• DK yarn in bright turquoise, approximately 50 g
• DK yarn in mustard yellow, approximately 40 g
• DK yarn in light basket beige, approximately 35 g
• Small amounts of white, pale pink, deep pink, and golden yellow yarn
• Black embroidery thread or thin black yarn
• 3.0 mm crochet hook
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for small flowers and facial pieces
• Polyester fiberfill
• Yarn needle
• Locking stitch markers
• Straight pins
• Scissors
• Optional flexible doll wire for the ears and arms
• Optional plastic pellets in a securely sewn fabric pouch for additional seated stability

Abbreviations

• MR: Magic ring
• ch: Chain
• sl st: Slip stitch
• sc: Single crochet
• hdc: Half double crochet
• dc: Double crochet
• inc: Work 2 single crochet stitches in the same stitch
• hdc inc: Work 2 half double crochet stitches in the same stitch
• dec: Invisible single crochet decrease over the next 2 stitches
• BLO: Back loop only
• FLO: Front loop only
• st or sts: Stitch or stitches
• R: Round
• Row: A section worked back and forth

Gauge and Tension

Using the 3.0 mm hook, 22 single crochet stitches and 24 rounds should measure approximately 4 inches, or 10 cm. Exact gauge is less important than producing a dense fabric through which the filling cannot be seen.

Keep the stitches firm but flexible. If gaps appear after stuffing, change to a smaller hook. If the pieces feel stiff and difficult to shape, move up to a 3.25 mm hook while maintaining the stated stitch counts.

Important Construction Notes

• Work the doll pieces in continuous spiral rounds unless a joined round is specifically requested.
• Place a marker in the first stitch of every round and move it upward as you work.
• Stuff gradually instead of adding all the filling at the end.
• Stuff the head firmly around the eyes and muzzle, but keep the ears unstuffed.
• Stuff the arms and legs more lightly near their attachment edges.
• Leave long yarn tails whenever a piece must be sewn to another part.
• The dress should be placed on the body before the head and arms are permanently attached.

Main Body and Long Neck

Use medium warm gray yarn and the 3.0 mm hook. Begin at the lower center of the body. The body widens at the seated area, narrows through the torso, and continues into the long visible neck.

1. R1: Work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts
2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts
3. R3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts
4. R4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts
5. R5: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts
6. R6: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 36 sts
7. R7: Repeat 5 sc, inc around. 42 sts
8. R8 to R12: Sc in each st around. 42 sts
9. R13: Repeat 5 sc, dec around. 36 sts
10. R14 to R22: Sc in each st around. 36 sts
11. R23: Repeat 4 sc, dec around. 30 sts
12. R24 to R28: Sc in each st around. 30 sts
13. R29: Repeat 3 sc, dec around. 24 sts
14. R30 and R31: Sc in each st around. 24 sts
15. R32: Repeat 2 sc, dec around. 18 sts
16. R33 to R41: Sc in each st around. 18 sts

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Firmly stuff the lower body so it remains rounded when seated. Add slightly less filling through the upper torso. Stuff the neck evenly and firmly so it supports the large head without bending.

Do not close the final round. Fasten off with a long yarn tail for sewing the neck to the head.

Lamb Head

Use medium warm gray yarn. The head is an elongated oval with a slightly wider cheek area. Begin at the crown and work downward toward the neck opening.

1. R1: Work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts
2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts
3. R3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts
4. R4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts
5. R5: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts
6. R6: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 36 sts
7. R7: Repeat 5 sc, inc around. 42 sts
8. R8 to R12: Sc in each st around. 42 sts
9. R13: Repeat 6 sc, inc around. 48 sts
10. R14 to R20: Sc in each st around. 48 sts
11. R21: Repeat 6 sc, dec around. 42 sts
12. R22: Repeat 5 sc, dec around. 36 sts
13. R23: Sc in each st around. 36 sts
14. R24: Repeat 4 sc, dec around. 30 sts
15. R25: Sc in each st around. 30 sts
16. R26: Repeat 3 sc, dec around. 24 sts
17. R27: Repeat 2 sc, dec around. 18 sts

Stuff the head firmly, concentrating extra filling behind the future eye area. Maintain a smooth oval shape without overfilling the lower opening. Leave the final 18 stitches open and fasten off.

Cream Oval Muzzle

Use cream yarn and the 2.5 mm hook. Work around both sides of the starting chain to create a softly raised oval.

1. Foundation: Ch 9.
2. R1: Beginning in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next 7 ch, work 3 sc in the last ch, continue along the opposite side, sc in the next 6 ch, and work 2 sc in the final ch. 18 sts
3. R2: Inc, 6 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 6 sc, inc in each of the final 2 sts. 24 sts
4. R3: Sc, inc, 6 sc, repeat sc, inc 3 times, 6 sc, repeat sc, inc 2 times. 30 sts
5. R4 and R5: Sc in each st around. 30 sts

Fasten off with a long sewing tail. Add only a thin layer of filling during attachment. The finished muzzle should remain broad and softly rounded rather than becoming spherical.

Large White Eye Pieces

Make two with white yarn and the 2.5 mm hook. Each eye is a small oval rather than a perfect circle.

1. Foundation: Ch 4.
2. R1: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, work 3 sc in the last ch, sc along the opposite side of the next ch, and work 2 sc in the final ch. 8 sts
3. R2: Inc, 1 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 sc, and inc in each of the final 2 sts. 14 sts
4. R3: Sc, inc, 1 sc, repeat sc, inc 3 times, 1 sc, and repeat sc, inc 2 times. 20 sts
5. R4: Sc in each st around. 20 sts

Fasten off with a long tail. Do not stuff heavily. A tiny amount of fiberfill placed beneath each eye during sewing will create the slightly raised expression visible in the finished lamb.

Black Pupils

Make two with black yarn or embroidery thread held double.

1. R1: Work 6 sc into an MR.
2. Sl st in the first sc and fasten off with a sewing tail.

Sew one pupil near the center of each white eye, positioning both slightly inward toward the muzzle. Add one tiny white straight stitch near the upper edge of each pupil to create a reflected highlight.

Long Lamb Ears

Make two with gray yarn. The ears are intentionally asymmetrical during assembly. Crochet both pieces identically, then position one upward and one outward.

1. R1: Work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts
2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts
3. R3 and R4: Sc in each st around. 12 sts
4. R5: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts
5. R6 to R11: Sc in each st around. 18 sts
6. R12: Repeat 1 sc, dec around. 12 sts
7. R13 to R16: Sc in each st around. 12 sts

Do not stuff. Flatten each ear so the increases form the rounded outer tip. Sc through both layers across the opening for 6 sc. Fasten off with a long tail.

Optional wire may be inserted inside the ears before closing. Bend both wire ends into small loops and wrap them with tape so no sharp point can pass through the crochet fabric.

Arms and Dark Brown Hands

Make two. Begin with dark brown yarn for the hands. The cream section forms the lighter lower forearm, while gray forms the upper arm.

1. R1: With dark brown, work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts
2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts
3. R3 to R5: Sc in each st around. 12 sts
4. R6: Repeat 2 sc, dec 3 times. 9 sts
5. R7: Change to cream. Work 9 sc in BLO. 9 sts
6. R8 to R12: Sc in each st around. 9 sts
7. R13: Change to gray. Repeat 2 sc, inc 3 times. 12 sts
8. R14 to R27: Sc in each st around. 12 sts

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Stuff the hand and lower forearm firmly. Stuff the upper arm lightly so it hangs naturally. Flatten the upper opening and sc through both layers for 6 sc. Fasten off with a long sewing tail.

Legs and Feet

Make two. Begin with dark brown yarn at the toe, then change to cream for the lower leg and gray for the upper leg.

1. Foundation: With dark brown, ch 5.
2. R1: Beginning in the second ch, sc in the next 3 ch, work 3 sc in the last ch, continue along the opposite side, sc in the next 2 ch, and work 2 sc in the final ch. 10 sts
3. R2: Inc, 2 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc, and inc in each of the final 2 sts. 16 sts
4. R3 to R5: Sc in each st around. 16 sts
5. R6: Repeat 2 sc, dec around. 12 sts
6. R7: Change to cream and work 12 sc in BLO. 12 sts
7. R8 to R14: Sc in each st around. 12 sts
8. R15: Change to gray. Sc in each st around. 12 sts
9. R16 to R30: Sc in each st around. 12 sts

Stuff the foot firmly and the lower leg evenly. Use less filling in the upper 5 rounds so the legs can cross naturally. Flatten the opening and sc through both layers for 6 sc.

Pink Floral Dress

The dress is constructed from a fitted waist tube, separate front and back bib sections, shoulder straps, and a flared skirt. Use dusty blush pink yarn and the 3.0 mm hook.

Waist and Lower Bodice Tube

1. Foundation: Ch 38 loosely. Join with a sl st in the first ch, taking care not to twist the chain.
2. R1: Ch 1 and hdc in each ch around. Join with a sl st. 38 sts
3. R2 to R7: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, and join. 38 sts

Fasten off. The joining seam marks the center back of the dress. Place a removable marker directly opposite this seam to identify the center front.

Front Bib

Count 9 stitches to the right of the center-front marker. Join the pink yarn in the next stitch. The front bib is worked back and forth over 18 stitches.

1. Row 1: Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in the next 17 sts. Turn. 18 sts
2. Rows 2 to 5: Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn. 18 sts
3. Row 6: Ch 1, hdc dec, hdc in the next 14 sts, hdc dec. Turn. 16 sts
4. Row 7: Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn. 16 sts
5. Row 8: Ch 1, hdc dec, hdc in the next 12 sts, hdc dec. 14 sts

First Front Strap

1. Row 9: Ch 1 and hdc in the first 5 sts. Turn. 5 sts
2. Rows 10 to 14: Ch 1 and hdc in each st across. Turn. 5 sts

Fasten off. Skip the center 4 stitches of Row 8. Join yarn in the next stitch and repeat Rows 9 to 14 over the final 5 stitches to form the second strap.

Back Bib

Ch 19 with pink yarn. The back bib is made separately and sewn to the center-back section of the waist tube.

1. Row 1: Beginning in the second ch, hdc across. Turn. 18 sts
2. Rows 2 to 6: Ch 1 and hdc in each st across. Turn. 18 sts
3. Row 7: Ch 1, hdc dec, hdc in the next 14 sts, hdc dec. Turn. 16 sts
4. Row 8: Ch 1 and hdc in each st across. 16 sts

Back Straps

1. Work 5 hdc across the first edge of Row 8 for 6 rows.
2. Fasten off after the sixth strap row.
3. Skip the middle 6 stitches of Row 8.
4. Join yarn in the next stitch and work 5 hdc across for 6 rows.

Center the lower edge of the back bib over the 18 center-back stitches of the waist tube. Sew it securely with small whip stitches.

Join each front strap to the corresponding back strap. Use a flat mattress seam across all 5 stitches. The completed armholes should remain large enough for the 12-stitch arms.

Flared Skirt

Turn the bodice upside down. Join pink yarn in one unused loop of the original foundation chain at the center-back seam. Work downward in joined rounds.

1. R1: Ch 2 and dc in each foundation loop around. Join. 38 sts
2. R2: Ch 2, repeat 5 dc, dc inc 6 times, then work 2 dc. Join. 44 sts
3. R3: Ch 2 and dc in each st around. Join. 44 sts
4. R4: Ch 2, repeat 10 dc, dc inc 4 times. Join. 48 sts
5. R5 and R6: Ch 2 and dc in each st around. Join. 48 sts
6. R7: Ch 2, repeat 7 dc, dc inc 6 times. Join. 54 sts
7. R8 to R10: Ch 2 and dc in each st around. Join. 54 sts
8. R11: Ch 2, repeat 8 dc, dc inc 6 times. Join. 60 sts
9. R12 to R14: Ch 2 and dc in each st around. Join. 60 sts
10. R15: Ch 2, repeat 9 dc, dc inc 6 times. Join. 66 sts
11. R16 to R19: Ch 2 and dc in each st around. Join. 66 sts
12. R20: Ch 1 and sc in each st around. Join. 66 sts

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Fasten off and weave in the yarn end. Lightly steam-block the skirt from a safe distance if the yarn label permits. Do not press the fabric flat.

Dress Flower Embroidery

Use white yarn for the petals and golden yellow yarn for the centers. Each daisy consists of five short straight stitches radiating from one center point and one small French knot in the middle.

• Embroider 3 daisies vertically down the center-front bib.
• Place the first bib daisy approximately 2 rows below the neckline.
• Place the next 2 daisies at intervals of 2 rows.
• Embroider 3 daisies across the upper skirt between Rounds 4 and 7.
• Embroider 3 daisies across the middle skirt between Rounds 10 and 13.
• Embroider 4 daisies across the lower skirt between Rounds 16 and 18.
• Stagger the flowers so they do not form rigid vertical lines.

Turquoise Open-Front Vest

Use turquoise yarn and the 3.0 mm hook. The vest is worked as one lower panel, then separated into two fronts and one back. Back-loop half double crochet creates the visible horizontal texture.

1. Foundation: Ch 43.
2. Row 1: Beginning in the second ch, hdc across. Turn. 42 sts
3. Rows 2 to 7: Ch 1 and hdc in BLO across. Turn. 42 sts

Right Front

1. Row 8: Ch 1 and work 10 hdc in BLO. Turn. 10 sts
2. Rows 9 to 14: Ch 1 and hdc in BLO across. Turn. 10 sts
3. Row 15: Decrease once at the neckline edge and hdc across. 9 sts
4. Row 16: Hdc in BLO across. 9 sts
5. Row 17: Decrease once at the neckline edge and hdc across. 8 sts
6. Row 18: Hdc in BLO across. 8 sts

Fasten off.

Back Panel

Return to Row 7. Skip the 10 stitches used by the right front and join yarn in the next stitch.

1. Row 8: Work 22 hdc in BLO. Turn. 22 sts
2. Rows 9 to 18: Ch 1 and hdc in BLO across. Turn. 22 sts

Fasten off.

Left Front

Join yarn in the remaining 10 stitches of Row 7. Work the same instructions as the right front, reversing the neckline decreases so both decreases occur along the inner front edge.

Lay the vest flat. Sew the outer 8 stitches of each front panel to the outer 8 stitches of the back. Leave the center 6 back stitches unsewn for the neckline.

Vest Edging

1. Join turquoise yarn at the lower right front corner.
2. Sc evenly up the right front edge.
3. Work sc around the neckline.
4. Continue down the left front edge.
5. Work 2 sc in each lower corner to prevent curling.
6. Fasten off after reaching the starting point.

Rounded Vest Pockets

Make two with turquoise yarn and the 2.5 mm hook.

1. Foundation: Ch 8.
2. Row 1: Sc in the second ch and across. Turn. 7 sts
3. Rows 2 to 4: Ch 1 and sc across. Turn. 7 sts
4. Row 5: Ch 1, dec, 3 sc, dec. Turn. 5 sts
5. Row 6: Ch 1 and sc across. 5 sts
6. Sc evenly around the two sides and rounded lower edge.

Pin one pocket to the lower section of each front panel. Keep the straight 7-stitch edge open and sew the remaining edges to the vest.

Mustard Scarf

Use mustard yellow yarn and the 3.0 mm hook. The scarf should wrap once around the neck and form a soft side knot with one visible hanging end.

1. Foundation: Ch 73.
2. Row 1: Beginning in the second ch, hdc across. Turn. 72 sts
3. Rows 2 to 7: Ch 1 and hdc in BLO across. Turn. 72 sts
4. Border: Ch 1 and sc evenly around the entire scarf, working 2 sc in each corner.

Fasten off and weave in the ends. Do not add fringe. The plain ends match the softly rounded, compact scarf shown in the finished design.

Turquoise Cloche Hat

Use turquoise yarn and the 3.0 mm hook. The crown is rounded and the brim flares only slightly.

1. R1: Work 6 hdc into an MR. Join. 6 sts
2. R2: Ch 1 and hdc inc in each st around. Join. 12 sts
3. R3: Repeat 1 hdc, hdc inc around. Join. 18 sts
4. R4: Repeat 2 hdc, hdc inc around. Join. 24 sts
5. R5: Repeat 3 hdc, hdc inc around. Join. 30 sts
6. R6: Repeat 4 hdc, hdc inc around. Join. 36 sts
7. R7: Repeat 5 hdc, hdc inc around. Join. 42 sts
8. R8 to R12: Ch 1 and hdc in each st around. Join. 42 sts
9. R13: Working in FLO, repeat 6 hdc, hdc inc around. Join. 48 sts
10. R14: Repeat 7 hdc, hdc inc around. Join. 54 sts
11. R15: Hdc in each st around. Join. 54 sts
12. R16: Sl st loosely in each st around. 54 sts

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Fasten off. Shape the brim with your fingers so the front edge curves slightly downward while the side holding the flower turns gently upward.

Hat Band

1. Ch 43 with turquoise yarn.
2. Beginning in the second ch, sc across. 42 sts
3. Work one additional row of 42 sc.

Wrap the band around the base of the crown directly above the brim. Overlap the ends by approximately 2 stitches and sew them together at the back.

Five-Petal Crochet Flowers

Use the 2.5 mm hook. This flower design is used on the hat, vest pockets, crossbody bag, and basket.

1. Center: With yellow or cream yarn, work 5 sc into an MR. Join with a sl st.
2. Petals: Join the petal color in any stitch.
3. In the same stitch, work sl st, ch 2, 2 hdc, ch 2, and sl st.
4. Repeat the complete petal sequence in each of the remaining 4 stitches.
5. Fasten off with a long sewing tail.

• Make one pale pink flower with a yellow center for the hat.
• Make two cream flowers with yellow centers for the vest pockets.
• Make one pale pink flower with a cream center for the bag flap.
• Make one tiny deep-pink flower for the picnic basket.

Sew the hat flower beside the upward-pointing ear. Attach each cream flower to the lower outer corner of a vest pocket.

Mustard Crossbody Bag

Use mustard yarn and the 3.0 mm hook. The bag consists of a front panel, a back panel with an attached flap, a narrow gusset, and a long strap.

Back Panel and Flap

1. Foundation: Ch 13.
2. Row 1: Beginning in the second ch, sc across. Turn. 12 sts
3. Rows 2 to 14: Ch 1 and sc across. Turn. 12 sts
4. Row 15: Ch 1, dec, 8 sc, dec. Turn. 10 sts
5. Row 16: Ch 1, dec, 6 sc, dec. 8 sts

Fasten off. Rows 1 to 10 form the bag back. Rows 11 to 16 extend above the opening and fold forward to create the flap.

Front Panel

1. Foundation: Ch 13.
2. Row 1: Beginning in the second ch, sc across. Turn. 12 sts
3. Rows 2 to 10: Ch 1 and sc across. Turn. 12 sts

Gusset

1. Foundation: Ch 4.
2. Row 1: Beginning in the second ch, sc across. Turn. 3 sts
3. Rows 2 to 32: Ch 1 and sc across. Turn. 3 sts

Pin the gusset around one side, the lower edge, and the opposite side of the front panel. Sew through both layers. Attach the back panel to the free edge of the gusset in the same manner.

Bag Strap

1. Ch 101 with mustard yarn.
2. Beginning in the second ch, work 100 sl sts loosely.
3. Fasten off with long tails at both ends.

Sew one strap end to each upper side of the bag. Attach the pale pink flower to the center of the flap, approximately 2 rows above its lower edge.

Pink Strap Shoes

Make two. The light beige sole remains visible around the edge. Pink straps frame the dark brown foot and create the open cottage-shoe appearance.

Shoe Soles

1. Foundation: With beige yarn, ch 6.
2. R1: Sc in the second ch, sc in the next 3 ch, work 3 sc in the last ch, sc along the opposite side of the next 3 ch, and work 2 sc in the final ch. 12 sts
3. R2: Inc, 3 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 3 sc, and inc in each of the final 2 sts. 18 sts
4. R3: Sc in each st around. 18 sts

Fasten off the beige yarn. Join pink yarn in any stitch of Round 3 and work one round of 18 surface slip stitches around the outer edge.

Toe Straps

1. With pink yarn, ch 13.
2. Beginning in the second ch, sl st across. 12 sts
3. Fasten off with long tails.

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Place one toe strap across the upper front of each dark brown foot. Sew one end beside the fourth stitch of the sole and the other end beside the fourteenth stitch.

Ankle Straps

1. With pink yarn, ch 18.
2. Beginning in the second ch, sl st across. 17 sts
3. Fasten off with long tails.

Wrap one strap around the cream ankle. Sew both ends to the back half of the shoe sole. Keep the strap snug but not tight enough to distort the leg.

Shoe Bows

Make two with pink yarn.

1. Ch 5, sl st in the first ch to form the first loop.
2. Ch 5 again and sl st in the same first ch to form the second loop.
3. Wrap the remaining yarn tail twice around the center.
4. Sew one bow to the front of each ankle strap.

Miniature Picnic Basket

Use light basket beige yarn and the 3.0 mm hook. The basket has an oval base, raised sides, a fitted oval lid, and an arched handle.

Basket Base and Sides

1. Foundation: Ch 13.
2. R1: Beginning in the second ch, sc in the next 11 ch, work 3 sc in the last ch, continue along the opposite side, sc in the next 10 ch, and work 2 sc in the final ch. 26 sts
3. R2: Inc, 10 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 10 sc, and inc in each of the final 2 sts. 32 sts
4. R3: Sc, inc, 10 sc, repeat sc, inc 3 times, 10 sc, and repeat sc, inc 2 times. 38 sts
5. R4: Sc in BLO around. 38 sts
6. R5 to R10: Sc in each st around. 38 sts
7. R11: Sl st loosely in each st around. 38 sts

Cut a small oval of firm felt slightly smaller than the crocheted base if additional stability is desired. Insert it before finishing the upper edge.

Basket Lid

1. Ch 13 with beige yarn.
2. Repeat Rounds 1 to 3 of the basket base. 38 sts
3. Work one additional round of 38 sc.

Position the lid over the basket. Sew approximately 14 stitches along one long back edge, leaving the remaining edge free so the lid can lift slightly.

Use a doubled strand of beige yarn to embroider one straight line across the center of the lid. This creates the appearance of two fitted picnic-basket flaps.

Basket Handle

1. Ch 27 with beige yarn.
2. Beginning in the second ch, sc across. Turn. 26 sts
3. Ch 1 and sc across once more. 26 sts

Sew one handle end to each short side of the basket. Attach each end 2 rounds below the upper rim. Keep the handle upright in a smooth arch.

Sew the tiny deep-pink flower near the lower front of the basket. Add a small yellow French knot at its center.

Miniature Frosted Cupcake

Chocolate Cupcake Base

Use dark brown yarn and the 2.5 mm hook.

1. R1: Work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts
2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts
3. R3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts
4. R4: Sc in BLO around. 18 sts
5. R5 to R7: Sc in each st around. 18 sts
6. R8: Repeat 1 sc, dec around. 12 sts

Stuff the base lightly and fasten off with a long tail.

Turquoise and White Frosting

1. R1: With turquoise yarn, work 6 sc into an MR. 6 sts
2. R2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts
3. R3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts
4. R4: Sc in BLO around. 18 sts
5. R5: Repeat 1 sc, dec around. 12 sts
6. R6: Change to white and sc around. 12 sts
7. R7: Dec around. 6 sts

Stuff lightly. Pull the final 6 stitches closed and secure the yarn end.

Join white yarn in one unused front loop of Frosting Round 4. Repeat sl st in the next loop and 3 hdc in the following loop around, creating a small scalloped frosting edge.

Pink Cupcake Topper

1. With deep pink yarn, work 6 sc into an MR.
2. Pull the ring tight and join with a sl st.
3. Sew the small circle to the top center of the frosting.

Sew the frosting securely to the chocolate base. Place the cupcake beside the basket when displaying the completed lamb.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Attach the legs: Position the flattened upper edges against the lower front of the body between Body Rounds 5 and 9. Leave approximately 5 body stitches between the legs.
2. Angle both legs slightly toward the center. The left leg may cross over the right leg when the lamb is seated.
3. Dress the body: Slide the completed dress over the neck before attaching the head and arms. Center the back seam along the body’s center back.
4. Attach the head: Match the 18 open head stitches to the 18 neck stitches. Sew each corresponding stitch together twice for additional support.
5. Keep the head vertical, with the wider cheek section facing forward and the crown centered above the neck.
6. Attach the arms: Place each arm at the side of the body between Body Rounds 26 and 29. Sew through the dress armholes and directly into the body.
7. Angle the arms approximately 10 degrees forward. The hands should rest beside the upper skirt.
8. Pin the muzzle: Center it across Head Rounds 16 to 24. The upper muzzle edge should sit beneath the future eyes.
9. Stuff the muzzle lightly and sew around all 30 stitches using small whip stitches.
10. Position the eyes: Place the white eye pieces side by side across Head Rounds 11 to 17. Allow their inner edges to touch.
11. Place a tiny amount of filling behind each eye and sew around the outer edge.
12. Sew one black pupil onto each eye. Position the pupils slightly inward and downward for the gentle cottage-lamb expression.
13. Embroider the nose: Use black thread to form a small inverted triangular nose at the center of the muzzle.
14. Bring one vertical black stitch downward from the nose for approximately 4 crochet rounds.
15. From the lower end of the vertical line, embroider two short diagonal stitches to create a soft upside-down Y-shaped mouth.
16. Attach the ears: Sew the wearer’s right ear between Head Rounds 8 and 12 at an upward angle of approximately 60 degrees.
17. Sew the wearer’s left ear between Head Rounds 10 and 14, extending outward and approximately 15 degrees downward.
18. Pass the sewing yarn through each ear base several times to prevent the ear angle from changing.
19. Add the hat: Place the hat slightly tilted toward the wearer’s right side. The brim should sit just above the eyes without covering them.
20. Sew the pink flower to the hat beside the upward ear. Add a small mustard straight stitch behind the flower to resemble a tiny leaf or decorative accent.
21. Add the vest: Place the open vest over the dress. Center the back panel and allow the front panels to curve naturally away from the bag strap.
22. Add the scarf: Wrap the scarf once around the neck. Form a loose side knot near the wearer’s right shoulder and allow one end to hang down the chest.
23. Add the bag: Place the strap over the wearer’s right shoulder and position the bag against the left hip.
24. Add the shoes: Center each foot over a beige sole. Secure the toe straps, ankle straps, and bows after confirming that both shoes face forward.

Care Notes

• Keep the doll away from open flames, heaters, and prolonged direct sunlight.
• Do not lift the doll by the ears, scarf, bag strap, or hat.
• Reshape the hat brim, vest, skirt, and scarf gently after storage.
• Check sewn parts periodically if the doll is displayed where children can reach it.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Both eyes are level and touch at their inner edges.
• The muzzle is centered directly beneath the eyes.
• The nose and mouth are symmetrical.
• One ear points upward while the second extends outward.
• The head is firmly supported by the stuffed neck.
• The dress seam is centered at the back.
• The vest pockets and flowers are positioned evenly.
• The bag rests at the left hip and does not twist.
• The legs cross naturally when the lamb is seated.
• The basket handle and cupcake remain firmly assembled.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For routine care, remove surface dust with a clean, soft brush or a lint roller used with very light pressure. Support the head and neck while cleaning so the facial features are not pulled out of position.

Spot-clean small marks with cool water and a mild color-safe detergent. Dab gently with a white cloth. Do not rub the embroidered flowers, eyes, nose, or mouth.

If deeper cleaning is necessary, place the doll inside a mesh laundry bag and wash by hand in cool water. Avoid soaking any optional wire or weighted inserts.

Press excess water out between clean towels without twisting. Reshape every piece and dry the doll flat in a well-ventilated shaded area. Do not tumble-dry, iron, bleach, or place the doll directly on a radiator.

Store the finished lamb in a breathable cotton bag or acid-free box. Avoid tightly compressing the hat, ears, scarf, basket handle, and skirt. Add tissue paper around the accessories to help preserve their intended shape.