Crochet Tutorial: Leopard Photographer in Blue Utility Vest with Camera Bag and Sandals – Free Crochet Pattern.

This detailed amigurumi pattern creates a tall, cheerful leopard photographer with an elongated muzzle, spotted orange fur, expressive eyes, white gloves, blue shorts, a textured utility vest, and open-toe sandals. The finished character also includes a flower-decorated camera bag, miniature camera, brown sun hat, curled tail, vest pockets, leopard patch, yarn ball, and crochet hook.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size and Skill Level

Using DK-weight cotton yarn and a 2.5 mm crochet hook, the finished leopard measures approximately 18 inches tall from the sandal soles to the tips of the ears. The head measures about 6 inches long, while the body and legs create the tall proportions shown in the reference image.

• Skill level: Intermediate
• Construction: Individual amigurumi pieces sewn together
• Terminology: US crochet terms
• Primary technique: Continuous spiral rounds
• Recommended tension: Firm enough to prevent stuffing from showing

Materials

• DK-weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn in bright orange
• DK-weight yarn in golden yellow for the muzzle and toe pads
• DK-weight yarn in black for the nose, spots, tail tip, and camera details
• DK-weight yarn in white for the shirt, gloves, eyes, and camera
• DK-weight yarn in medium denim blue for the vest and shorts
• DK-weight yarn in dark denim blue for vest edging and pocket details
• DK-weight yarn in medium brown for the camera bag, strap, and hat
• DK-weight yarn in tan for sandal straps and shorts edging
• DK-weight yarn in dark brown for sandal soles and bag details
• Small amounts of beige, cream, pale yellow, and light gray yarn
• 2.5 mm crochet hook
• 2.0 mm crochet hook for small patches and facial details
• Two 14 mm black safety eyes
• Polyester fiberfill
• Two small wooden or brown buttons, approximately 8 mm
• Black embroidery thread
• White embroidery thread
• Brown craft wire or firm floral wire for the whiskers, optional
• Flexible craft wire for the tail, optional
• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers
• Sewing pins
• Scissors
• Small amount of plastic canvas for the sandal soles, optional

Abbreviations

• MR: Magic ring
• ch: Chain
• sl st: Slip stitch
• sc: Single crochet
• hdc: Half double crochet
• dc: Double crochet
• inc: Work 2 single crochets in the same stitch
• dec: Invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: Back loop only
• FLO: Front loop only
• FO: Fasten off
• R: Round or row

Important Pattern Notes

Work all amigurumi sections in continuous spiral rounds unless the instructions specifically say to join. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round. Stuff each section gradually and firmly, especially the long legs, neck, muzzle, and head.

The reference leopard has deliberately elongated proportions. Keep the legs slim and straight, make the head noticeably larger than the body, and position the muzzle forward rather than downward. The neck must be firmly stuffed so the large head remains upright.

Use invisible decreases whenever possible. Change colors in the final yarn-over of the stitch immediately before the new color begins. Leave long sewing tails on all clothing panels, patches, ears, fingers, sandals, and accessories.

Leopard Head

Use orange yarn. Begin at the front of the face and work toward the back of the head. The yellow muzzle and black nose will be attached separately.

1. R1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc in each stitch around. 12 sts.
3. R3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
4. R4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
5. R5: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts.
6. R6: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 36 sts.
7. R7: Sc around. 36 sts.
8. R8: Repeat 5 sc, inc around. 42 sts.
9. R9-R11: Sc around for 3 rounds. 42 sts.
10. R12: 9 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 11 sc. 44 sts.
11. R13-R18: Sc around for 6 rounds. 44 sts.
12. R19: 10 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 10 sc. 42 sts.
13. R20-R22: Sc around for 3 rounds. 42 sts.
14. R23: Repeat 5 sc, dec around. 36 sts.
15. R24: Sc around. 36 sts.
16. R25: Repeat 4 sc, dec around. 30 sts.
17. R26: Repeat 3 sc, dec around. 24 sts.

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Insert the safety eyes between R10 and R11. Leave approximately 10 visible stitches between the eye posts. Place both eyes slightly above the horizontal centerline so the muzzle can sit beneath them.

Stuff the face firmly, pressing extra filling into the forehead and sides. Keep the lower face slightly flatter. Continue adding stuffing before closing the back opening.

1. R27: Repeat 2 sc, dec around. 18 sts.
2. R28: Repeat 1 sc, dec around. 12 sts.
3. R29: Dec around. 6 sts.

FO and close the opening. Shape the head with both hands so it forms a long oval. The front should be narrower, while the back should be rounded and slightly higher.

Eye Whites

Make two with white yarn and the 2.0 mm hook.

1. R1: Ch 5. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 3 sc, 3 sc in the last ch, continue on the opposite side with 2 sc, inc. 10 sts.
2. R2: Inc, 2 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc, inc in each of the final 2 sts. 16 sts.

FO with a long tail. Position each eye white around the outer and lower edge of a safety eye. Allow only a narrow white crescent to remain visible. Sew with small stitches so the edges sit flat.

Upper Eyelids

Make two in orange.

1. Row 1: Ch 8. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 7 sc. 7 sts.
2. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, dec, 3 sc, dec. 5 sts.

FO. Pin each eyelid over the top third of an eye. Sew the straight upper edge securely and leave the lower edge slightly raised to create the alert expression visible in the image.

Golden Yellow Muzzle

The muzzle consists of one large upper oval and two rounded lower cheek sections. Use golden yellow yarn.

Upper Muzzle

1. R1: Ch 11. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 9 sc, 3 sc in the last ch, continue on the opposite side with 8 sc, inc. 22 sts.
2. R2: Inc, 8 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 8 sc, inc in each of the final 2 sts. 28 sts.
3. R3: Repeat inc, 1 sc around each curved end while working sc across both straight sides. 34 sts.
4. R4-R5: Sc around for 2 rounds. 34 sts.

FO with a long tail. Add a light layer of stuffing. Position the muzzle horizontally over the front of the head, with its upper edge approximately two rounds below the eyes. Sew around the edge while maintaining the elongated oval shape.

Lower Muzzle Cheeks

Make two in golden yellow.

1. R1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
4. R4: Sc around. 18 sts.
5. R5: Repeat 1 sc, dec around. 12 sts.

Stuff each cheek lightly and flatten the back. Position the cheeks side by side beneath the upper muzzle. Their inner edges should touch below the nose. Sew around each piece, leaving the central lower edges slightly rounded.

Black Nose

Use black yarn. The nose should be broad, raised, and slightly triangular.

1. R1: Ch 7. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 5 sc, 3 sc in the last ch, continue on the opposite side with 4 sc, inc. 14 sts.
2. R2: Inc, 4 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 4 sc, inc in each of the final 2 sts. 20 sts.
3. R3: Sc around. 20 sts.
4. R4: 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec. 16 sts.

FO with a long tail. Add a small amount of stuffing. Pin the nose over the center of the upper muzzle, slightly overlapping the two lower cheeks. Sew securely around the outer edge.

Using black embroidery thread, stitch one vertical line from the bottom center of the nose to the space between the cheeks. Add a curved mouth line extending about 1 inch toward each side.

Embroider three tiny black dots on each cheek. Insert three whiskers on each side using firm black thread or thin brown craft wire. Trim the whiskers to approximately 2 to 2.5 inches long.

Ears

Make four ear panels in orange. Two panels form each ear.

1. Row 1: Ch 8. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 7 sc. 7 sts.
2. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, inc, 5 sc, inc. 9 sts.
3. Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 9 sc. 9 sts.
4. Row 4: Ch 1, turn, dec, 5 sc, dec. 7 sts.
5. Row 5: Ch 1, turn, dec, 3 sc, dec. 5 sts.
6. Row 6: Ch 1, turn, dec, 1 sc, dec. 3 sts.
7. Row 7: Ch 1, turn, work one 3-stitch decrease. 1 st.

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FO. Place two matching panels together. Join orange yarn at the lower corner and sc evenly around the sides and tip, working 2 sc in the tip. Leave the bottom edge open.

Embroider an inner ear line with dark brown yarn. Add three small black curved markings inside each ear. Fold the lower corners slightly inward and sew them together to give the ears a cupped shape.

Attach the ears to the upper rear section of the head between R18 and R22. Angle the ears outward at approximately 35 degrees. The right ear may sit slightly higher to match the playful handmade appearance.

Small Head Fur Tufts

Make five small tufts in orange.

1. R1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: Sc around. 6 sts.
3. R3: Repeat 1 sc, dec twice. 4 sts.

FO with a sewing tail. Do not stuff. Flatten each tuft and sew the five pieces in a curved line along the rear edge of the head, beginning behind the ear and ending near the upper neck.

Leopard Facial Stripes and Spots

Use black yarn or embroidery thread. Add two curved brow stripes above each eye. Each stripe should cover approximately four stitches. Place one short vertical stripe beside the outer corner of each eye.

Embroider irregular teardrop-shaped spots across the forehead, cheeks, temples, and back of the head. Keep the spots small and uneven. Add approximately 28 to 34 visible spots, leaving clear orange space between them.

For larger rosette-style markings, embroider a loose black oval and leave a small orange opening in the center. Place these markings mainly on the top and rear of the head.

Body and Neck

Begin with blue yarn for the lower body, change to white for the shirt, and finish with orange for the neck.

1. R1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
4. R4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
5. R5: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts.
6. R6: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 36 sts.
7. R7-R9: Sc around in blue for 3 rounds. 36 sts.
8. R10: Change to white and sc around. 36 sts.
9. R11-R18: Sc around in white for 8 rounds. 36 sts.
10. R19: Repeat 4 sc, dec around. 30 sts.
11. R20: Sc around. 30 sts.
12. R21: Repeat 3 sc, dec around. 24 sts.
13. R22: Sc around. 24 sts.
14. R23: Change to orange and work BLO sc around. 24 sts.
15. R24-R30: Sc around in orange for 7 rounds. 24 sts.

Stuff the body firmly, adding extra filling through the center of the neck. Insert a rolled cylinder of firm felt or a protected piece of flexible wire into the neck if additional support is required.

FO with a long sewing tail. Pin the neck opening to the underside of the head. The head should tilt very slightly upward and turn approximately 10 degrees toward the character’s left side.

Legs

Make two in orange. The feet and sandals are added later.

1. R1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
4. R4-R23: Sc around for 20 rounds. 18 sts.
5. R24: Repeat 4 sc, dec around. 15 sts.
6. R25-R27: Sc around for 3 rounds. 15 sts.

Stuff each leg firmly from the bottom upward. Keep the upper 1 inch slightly softer so the legs can hang naturally from the body. FO with a long tail.

Embroider eight to ten irregular black spots on each leg. Place some spots on the front and others along the outer sides. Avoid arranging them in perfectly straight rows.

Open Toes

Make six toe pieces in orange, three for each foot.

1. R1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3-R4: Sc around for 2 rounds. 12 sts.
4. R5: Repeat 1 sc, dec around. 8 sts.

Stuff lightly and flatten the final opening. Arrange three toes side by side at the lower end of each leg. The center toe should project slightly farther forward. Sew the toes together and then sew them firmly to the leg.

Using dark brown thread, add one short vertical line to the front of every toe. These lines separate the rounded toes and remain visible through the sandals.

Blue Shorts

The shorts are made as two leg tubes joined at the center. Use denim blue yarn.

First Short Leg

1. R1: Ch 25 and join with a sl st, making sure the chain is not twisted. 24 sts.
2. R2-R7: Sc around for 6 rounds. 24 sts.

FO and make the second leg in the same way, but do not fasten off after R7.

Join the Shorts

1. R8: Ch 3, join to the first leg, sc in all 24 stitches of the first leg, sc across the opposite side of the 3 chains, sc in all 24 stitches of the second leg, and sc across the remaining side of the chains. 54 sts.
2. R9: Sc around. 54 sts.
3. R10: Repeat 7 sc, dec around. 48 sts.
4. R11-R15: Sc around for 5 rounds. 48 sts.
5. R16: Repeat 6 sc, dec around. 42 sts.
6. R17: BLO sc around. 42 sts.

FO. Join tan yarn to the lower edge of each short leg and work one round of sc, followed by one round of sl st. Add the same tan edging around the waistband.

Dress the body before attaching the legs. Pull the shorts over the lower body and align the center join with the body’s center. Sew the waistband invisibly to the body through the back loops of R17.

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Shorts Pocket

Use denim blue yarn.

1. Row 1: Ch 8. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 7 sc. 7 sts.
2. Rows 2-6: Ch 1, turn, 7 sc. 7 sts.

FO. Add one tan row of surface stitching across the pocket opening. Sew the pocket to the outer front of the left shorts leg. Leave the top edge open.

Small Leopard Pocket Patch

Use orange yarn and the 2.0 mm hook.

1. R1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. 12 sts.

FO. Embroider two tiny ears, two black dots, and one small cream muzzle. Sew the patch to the center of the blue pocket.

Arms

Make two. Begin with white for the glove, change to white cuff texture, and finish with orange for the spotted arm.

Glove Fingers

Make six fingers in white, three for each hand.

1. R1: Work 5 sc in an MR. 5 sts.
2. R2-R5: Sc around for 4 rounds. 5 sts.

FO after making the first two fingers for each hand. Do not fasten off after making the third finger.

Join Each Hand

1. R6: Sc through 4 stitches of the third finger, 4 stitches around the second finger, 5 stitches around the first finger, then complete the remaining stitches around the second and third fingers. 15 sts.
2. R7-R9: Sc around for 3 rounds. 15 sts.
3. R10: Repeat 3 sc, dec around. 12 sts.
4. R11: BLO sc around. 12 sts.
5. R12: FLO repeat 1 sc, inc around to create the glove cuff. 18 sts.
6. R13: Sc around. 18 sts.

FO the cuff yarn and rejoin white yarn in the unworked back loops of R11.

1. R14: Sc in each back loop around. 12 sts.
2. R15: Change to orange and sc around. 12 sts.
3. R16: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 15 sts.
4. R17-R32: Sc around for 16 rounds. 15 sts.

Stuff the glove and arm gradually. Keep the upper 1 inch lightly stuffed. Flatten the final opening and work 7 sc through both layers.

Embroider six to eight black spots on each orange arm. Sew the arms to the body directly below the neck at a downward angle of approximately 15 degrees. Position one arm slightly forward and the other closer to the side.

Tail

Begin with black yarn for the tip and continue with orange.

1. R1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3-R6: Sc around in black for 4 rounds. 12 sts.
4. R7: Change to orange and sc around. 12 sts.
5. R8-R30: Sc around in orange for 23 rounds. 12 sts.
6. R31: Repeat 2 sc, dec around. 9 sts.
7. R32-R38: Sc around for 7 rounds. 9 sts.

Stuff the tail lightly. Insert protected flexible wire before closing if you want the tail to hold the upward curve shown in the image. FO with a long tail.

Embroider six irregular black spots along the orange section. Sew the tail to the center back of the shorts, approximately 1 inch below the waistband. Curve the tail upward and then slightly toward the body.

Blue Utility Vest

The vest is made from one back panel and two front panels. Use denim blue yarn. The finished vest should remain open over the white shirt.

Back Panel

1. Row 1: Ch 25. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 24 sc. 24 sts.
2. Rows 2-13: Ch 1, turn, 24 sc. 24 sts.
3. Row 14: Ch 1, turn, dec, 20 sc, dec. 22 sts.
4. Rows 15-20: Ch 1, turn, 22 sc. 22 sts.
5. Row 21: Ch 1, turn, 6 sc, FO. Skip 10 central stitches, join yarn, and work 6 sc across the opposite shoulder.
6. Rows 22-24: Work each 6-stitch shoulder separately for 3 rows.

Left Front Panel

1. Row 1: Ch 13. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 12 sc. 12 sts.
2. Rows 2-13: Ch 1, turn, 12 sc. 12 sts.
3. Row 14: Ch 1, turn, dec, 10 sc. 11 sts.
4. Row 15: Ch 1, turn, 11 sc. 11 sts.
5. Row 16: Ch 1, turn, dec, 9 sc. 10 sts.
6. Row 17: Ch 1, turn, 10 sc. 10 sts.
7. Row 18: Ch 1, turn, dec, 8 sc. 9 sts.
8. Rows 19-24: Ch 1, turn, 9 sc. 9 sts.

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Right Front Panel

Make the right panel as a mirror image. Work all decreases at the opposite edge so both front panels slope inward toward the neckline.

Sew the shoulder seams, matching nine stitches of each front panel to the outer shoulder stitches of the back. Sew the side seams from the lower edge upward for approximately 10 rows, leaving generous armholes.

Vest Edging

Join dark denim yarn at the lower right front edge. Sc evenly up the right front, around the neckline, down the left front, and across the lower edge. Work 2 sc in each lower corner.

Work a second edging round in sc. On the left front, make two button loops by working ch 3, skipping one edge stitch, and continuing in sc. Place the loops approximately 1.25 inches apart.

Sew two small brown buttons to the opposite front panel. The vest should appear open, so do not pull the button loops tightly across the shirt.

Vest Collar

Join denim yarn approximately 1 inch below the right shoulder seam.

1. Row 1: Sc evenly around the back neckline and stop 1 inch below the left shoulder seam. Approximately 22 sts.
2. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, inc, sc across to the final stitch, inc. Approximately 24 sts.
3. Row 3: Ch 1, turn, sc across.

FO. Fold the collar outward. Tack the lower corners to the vest fronts so they form the pointed lapels visible in the image.

Vest Pockets

Make two in denim blue.

1. Row 1: Ch 9. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 8 sc. 8 sts.
2. Rows 2-6: Ch 1, turn, 8 sc. 8 sts.
3. Row 7: Ch 1, turn, dec, 4 sc, dec. 6 sts.

FO. Add one row of dark blue surface stitching across each pocket opening. Sew the pockets to the lower fronts of the vest, leaving the top edges open.

Leopard Face Vest Badge

Use orange yarn and the 2.0 mm hook.

1. R1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.

FO. Add two tiny orange ears using two embroidered loops. Stitch a small white muzzle, black nose, smiling mouth, and six tiny black spots. Sew the badge above the left vest pocket.

Sandals

Make four sole panels in dark brown, using two panels for each sandal.

1. R1: Ch 13. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 11 sc, 3 sc in the final ch, continue along the opposite side with 10 sc, inc. 26 sts.
2. R2: Inc, 10 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 10 sc, inc in each of the final 2 sts. 32 sts.
3. R3: Repeat inc, 1 sc around both curved ends while working sc across the straight sides. 38 sts.

FO after making each panel. Place two matching soles together. Insert a matching oval of plastic canvas between them if a firmer sole is desired.

Join tan yarn through both layers. Sc around the entire edge, working 2 sc at both the toe and heel curves. Complete one additional round of sl st in dark brown.

Front Sandal Straps

Make two in tan.

1. Row 1: Ch 18. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 17 sc. 17 sts.
2. Rows 2-4: Ch 1, turn, 17 sc. 17 sts.

Wrap one strap over the three toes of each foot. Sew the ends securely to the outer edges of the sole, leaving the toe tips visible.

Ankle Straps

Make two in tan.

1. Row 1: Ch 25. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 24 sc. 24 sts.
2. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 24 sc. 24 sts.

Wrap one strap around each ankle, approximately 0.75 inch above the sandal sole. Sew the ends together at the outer side.

Sandal Side Buttons

Make two in tan.

1. R1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. 12 sts.

FO. Add one small dark brown embroidered circle in the center. Sew one button to the outer side of each ankle strap.

Place the feet onto the finished soles. Sew through the lower edges of the toes and through the sandal sole. Add several concealed stitches beneath the heel and ankle straps for stability.

Brown Camera Bag

The rectangular camera bag hangs across the body and rests near the right hip. Use medium brown yarn.

Bag Front and Back

Make two identical panels.

1. Row 1: Ch 17. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 16 sc. 16 sts.
2. Rows 2-15: Ch 1, turn, 16 sc. 16 sts.

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Bag Side Strip

1. Row 1: Ch 5. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 4 sc. 4 sts.
2. Rows 2-47: Ch 1, turn, 4 sc. 4 sts.

Pin the long strip around the sides and lower edge of the front panel. Sew or single crochet the pieces together. Attach the back panel to the opposite edge of the side strip.

Stuff the bag lightly with a flat layer of fiberfill. Keep the upper edge open until the flap is attached.

Bag Flap

1. Row 1: Ch 17. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 16 sc. 16 sts.
2. Rows 2-8: Ch 1, turn, 16 sc. 16 sts.
3. Row 9: Ch 1, turn, dec, 12 sc, dec. 14 sts.
4. Row 10: Ch 1, turn, dec, 10 sc, dec. 12 sts.

FO. Sew the straight upper edge of the flap to the back of the bag. Fold the flap over the front and tack its lower corners in place.

Bag Strap

1. Row 1: Ch 95. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 94 sc. 94 sts.
2. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, 94 sc. 94 sts.

FO. Sew one strap end to each upper side of the bag. Place the strap over the leopard’s left shoulder so the bag hangs near the right hip.

Bag Flower

Use orange yarn.

1. R1: With yellow yarn, work 6 sc in an MR and join with a sl st. 6 sts.
2. R2: Change to orange. In each stitch work sl st, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, sl st. Six petals.

FO. Sew the flower to the center of the bag flap. Add a small yellow French knot or embroidered circle to the flower center.

Miniature Camera

Use brown yarn for the camera body, white for the upper casing, and black for the lens.

Camera Body

1. R1: Ch 15. Beginning in the second ch from the hook, work 13 sc, 3 sc in the final ch, continue along the opposite side with 12 sc, inc. 30 sts.
2. R2-R6: Sc around for 5 rounds. 30 sts.
3. R7: Change to white and sc around. 30 sts.
4. R8-R10: Sc around in white for 3 rounds. 30 sts.
5. R11: Change to brown and sc around. 30 sts.
6. R12: Repeat 3 sc, dec around. 24 sts.

Insert a small amount of stuffing while shaping the camera into a flat rectangle. Flatten the opening and work 12 sc through both layers.

Camera Lens

Use black yarn.

1. R1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
4. R4: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
5. R5: Sc around. 18 sts.

FO. Add a tiny amount of stuffing and sew the lens to the lower white section of the camera front. Add one white embroidered highlight on the black lens.

Viewfinder, Button, and Strap

Embroider a small black rectangle near the upper right corner of the camera. Add a small black button on the upper left corner.

For the strap, ch 46 with dark brown yarn and sl st back across all 45 chains. Sew both ends to the upper camera corners.

Brown Sun Hat

Use medium brown yarn. Work the crown first, followed by the wide brim.

1. R1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
4. R4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
5. R5: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts.
6. R6: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 36 sts.
7. R7: Repeat 5 sc, inc around. 42 sts.
8. R8: BLO sc around. 42 sts.
9. R9-R16: Sc around for 8 rounds. 42 sts.
10. R17: FLO repeat 6 sc, inc around. 48 sts.
11. R18: Repeat 7 sc, inc around. 54 sts.
12. R19: Repeat 8 sc, inc around. 60 sts.
13. R20: Repeat 9 sc, inc around. 66 sts.
14. R21: Sc around. 66 sts.

FO. Work one round of reverse single crochet around the brim if a firmer edge is desired. Shape the crown with light steam, keeping the iron away from the yarn.

The hat can be displayed beside the leopard as shown in the image. It may also be placed loosely over one ear without permanently sewing it to the head.

Decorative Yarn Ball and Crochet Hook

Use orange yarn for the small yarn ball.

1. R1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: Inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
4. R4-R6: Sc around for 3 rounds. 18 sts.
5. R7: Repeat 1 sc, dec around. 12 sts.
6. R8: Dec around. 6 sts.

Stuff firmly, close the opening, and wrap a long strand of orange yarn around the ball in several directions. Leave an 8-inch yarn tail extending from the ball.

For a soft crochet hook, ch 19 with pale gray yarn and sl st back across 18 chains. Curve one end into a small hook and secure the curve with sewing thread.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Secure the head to the neck with two complete circles of small stitches. Check the head angle from the front and side before tightening the final stitches.
2. Attach the legs to the lower body beneath the shorts. Leave approximately four stitches between the inner leg edges.
3. Position both knees forward and make sure the sandal soles face in the same direction.
4. Sew the arms directly below the vest armholes. Keep the white glove cuffs visible beneath the vest edges.
5. Attach the tail to the center back and shape it into an upward curve.
6. Dress the leopard in the vest and secure the shoulder seams to the body with several hidden stitches.
7. Place the camera bag strap diagonally across the vest and tack the strap at the shoulder and waist.
8. Add the camera, hat, yarn ball, and hook as removable display accessories.

Embroider one short black line at the inner corner of each eye. Add a tiny white highlight near the upper edge of each safety eye if the existing reflection is not visible.

Add approximately 12 irregular black spots to the visible orange neck, shoulders, and upper arms. Keep the spots away from the vest seams so the clothing remains clearly defined.

Check that the muzzle remains centered beneath the eyes. The nose should project outward, the lower cheeks should appear full, and the mouth line should curve gently upward.

Care Notes

Spot-clean the finished leopard with a damp white cloth and mild soap. Avoid soaking the toy because the layered accessories, embroidered details, and reinforced neck may take a long time to dry.

Allow the toy to air-dry naturally in a shaded, well-ventilated location. Do not place it in a tumble dryer or directly on a heater. Reshape the head, ears, vest collar, camera bag, and sandals while they are still slightly damp.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Both eyes are level and securely locked.
• The eye whites remain visible beneath the safety eyes.
• The muzzle is centered and firmly stuffed.
• The nose, mouth, cheek dots, and whiskers are secure.
• The ears angle outward and contain inner markings.
• Black spots cover the head, arms, legs, neck, and tail.
• The neck supports the large head without bending.
• The vest remains open over the white shirt.
• Both vest pockets and the leopard badge are attached.
• The shorts have tan edging and a decorated pocket.
• The glove fingers are separated and evenly shaped.
• The sandals expose the orange toes.
• The camera bag hangs at the correct hip.
• The flower is centered on the bag flap.
• The miniature camera has a raised black lens.
• The tail curves upward with a black tip.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Dust the toy regularly with a soft makeup brush or clean microfiber cloth. Support the neck with one hand while cleaning the large head so the internal structure is not repeatedly bent.

For a small stain, mix cool water with a drop of gentle detergent. Dab the area rather than rubbing it. Remove remaining soap with a second damp cloth and blot away excess moisture with a clean towel.

Store the leopard upright or lying flat in a breathable cotton bag. Avoid sealed plastic storage in humid conditions. Keep the toy away from direct sunlight to reduce fading of the orange, blue, yellow, and brown yarns.

Before long-term storage, remove the hat, camera, yarn ball, and crochet hook. Lay the camera bag flat so the strap does not stretch. Place acid-free tissue inside the hat crown and bag to help preserve their shape.

Inspect the whiskers, buttons, safety eyes, sandals, spots, and small accessories periodically. Repair loose stitches immediately. This design contains small components and is best used as a decorative collectible unless all removable pieces are omitted or permanently secured.