Crochet Tutorial: Garden Dragon in Mustard Cable Vest with Tool Satchel and Watering Can – Free Crochet Pattern.

This cheerful garden dragon has a long green muzzle, expressive crochet eyes, orange back spikes, blue wings, a curved tail, and a softly stuffed seated body. He wears teal garden pants, striped vegetable sandals, and a textured mustard cable vest decorated with small buttons. The finished scene also includes a flower-trimmed sun hat, crossbody tool satchel, miniature trowel, blue watering can, sunflower seed packet, ladybug, daisy, and garden flowers.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

Skill level: Intermediate, with beginner-friendly round and row instructions.
US crochet terminology: This pattern uses standard US stitch names.
Construction: The dragon, clothing, and accessories are crocheted separately and assembled with a yarn needle.
Working method: Most amigurumi parts are worked in continuous spiral rounds unless instructed otherwise.
Finished position: The dragon is designed to sit with the legs angled forward, the arms resting near the belly, and the tail curving upward behind the right side.

Finished Measurements

Seated height: Approximately 17 inches from the bottom of the sandals to the top head spike.
Head length: Approximately 7 inches from the back of the head to the end of the muzzle.
Body width: Approximately 8 inches across the widest seated section.
Tail length: Approximately 14 to 15 inches before curving.
Wing width: Approximately 4 inches per wing.
Satchel size: Approximately 3½ inches wide and 3 inches tall.
Hat diameter: Approximately 7½ inches across the brim.

Materials

Worsted-weight number 4 yarn in leaf green for the dragon.
Worsted-weight number 4 yarn in muted teal blue for the pants.
Worsted-weight number 4 yarn in mustard yellow for the vest.
Worsted-weight number 4 yarn in bright blue for the wings and watering can.
Worsted-weight number 4 yarn in burnt orange for the dragon spikes and garden details.
Worsted-weight number 4 yarn in medium brown and light taupe for the satchel and strap.
Worsted-weight number 4 yarn in beige for the hat and sandal soles.
Small quantities of white, black, red, pink, yellow, gray, cream, and dark green yarn.
3.25 mm crochet hook for the dragon and most amigurumi pieces.
3.75 mm crochet hook for the cable vest.
2.75 mm crochet hook for flowers, the ladybug, trowel, and seed packet details.
Polyester fiberfill.
Two 10 mm black safety eyes, or black yarn for embroidered pupils.
Three small decorative buttons for the vest.
One small button for the satchel flap.
Stitch markers, yarn needle, sewing needle, scissors, and straight pins.
Optional thin plastic canvas for stabilizing the watering can and seed packet.

Safety note: Replace safety eyes and loose buttons with securely embroidered details when making the dragon for a child younger than three years old.

Gauge

Using the 3.25 mm hook, 22 single crochet stitches and 24 rounds measure approximately 4 inches. Exact gauge is less important than creating a dense fabric through which the stuffing cannot be seen.

Using the 3.75 mm hook, 18 half double crochet stitches and 14 rows measure approximately 4 inches. Check the vest against the stuffed body before completing the shoulder seams.

Abbreviations

MR: Magic ring.
ch: Chain.
sl st: Slip stitch.
sc: Single crochet.
hdc: Half double crochet.
dc: Double crochet.
tr: Treble crochet.
inc: Work 2 single crochet stitches in the same stitch.
dec: Invisible single crochet decrease over the next 2 stitches.
FLO: Front loop only.
BLO: Back loop only.
FPdc: Front post double crochet.
BPdc: Back post double crochet.
RS: Right side.
WS: Wrong side.
FO: Fasten off.

Special Cable Stitch

C4F: Skip the next 2 post stitches. Work 1 FPdc around each of the following 2 post stitches. Working in front of the stitches just made, work 1 FPdc around each of the 2 skipped post stitches. Four raised stitches form one crossed cable.

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Main Dragon Body

Teal Lower Body and Green Upper Torso

Begin at the center bottom with teal yarn and the 3.25 mm hook. Work in continuous rounds and place a marker in the first stitch of every round.

Round 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. Pull the ring closed. 6 stitches.
Round 2: Inc in every stitch around. 12 stitches.
Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 stitches.
Round 4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 stitches.
Round 5: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 stitches.
Round 6: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 36 stitches.
Round 7: Repeat 5 sc, inc around. 42 stitches.
Round 8: Repeat 6 sc, inc around. 48 stitches.
Round 9: Repeat 7 sc, inc around. 54 stitches.
Round 10: Repeat 8 sc, inc around. 60 stitches.
Rounds 11–18: Sc in every stitch around. 60 stitches.
Round 19: Repeat 8 sc, dec around. 54 stitches.
Rounds 20–22: Sc in every stitch around. 54 stitches.
Round 23: Repeat 7 sc, dec around. 48 stitches.
Round 24: Change to green. Working in BLO, sc in every stitch around. 48 stitches.
Rounds 25–27: Sc in every stitch around. 48 stitches.
Round 28: Repeat 6 sc, dec around. 42 stitches.
Rounds 29–31: Sc in every stitch around. 42 stitches.
Round 32: Repeat 5 sc, dec around. 36 stitches.
Round 33: Sc in every stitch around. 36 stitches.
Round 34: Repeat 4 sc, dec around. 30 stitches.
Round 35: Sc in every stitch around. 30 stitches.

Stuff the lower body firmly, keeping the bottom broad and slightly flattened. Add smaller pieces of stuffing around the sides so the teal section forms the rounded pants shape visible beneath the vest. Leave a long yarn tail for attaching the neck.

Long Green Neck

Begin at the narrow upper end of the neck. The final rounds widen slightly to fit the top of the torso.

Round 1: Work 24 sc in an MR. Do not close the ring too tightly. 24 stitches.
Rounds 2–20: Sc in every stitch around. 24 stitches.
Round 21: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 stitches.
Rounds 22–24: Sc in every stitch around. 30 stitches.

Stuff the neck very firmly in small sections. Keep it straight but allow a gentle forward lean near the upper end. Sew the 30-stitch lower edge to the 30-stitch torso opening.

For additional stability, pass the yarn through the body, up the center of the neck, and back through the body several times. Pull firmly without narrowing the neck.

Dragon Head

Rounded Skull

Use green yarn. Work from the back center of the skull toward the neck opening.

Round 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 stitches.
Round 2: Inc around. 12 stitches.
Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 stitches.
Round 4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 stitches.
Round 5: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 stitches.
Round 6: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 36 stitches.
Round 7: Repeat 5 sc, inc around. 42 stitches.
Round 8: Repeat 6 sc, inc around. 48 stitches.
Rounds 9–17: Sc in every stitch around. 48 stitches.
Round 18: Repeat 6 sc, dec around. 42 stitches.
Rounds 19–20: Sc in every stitch around. 42 stitches.
Round 21: Repeat 5 sc, dec around. 36 stitches.
Round 22: Sc in every stitch around. 36 stitches.
Round 23: Repeat 4 sc, dec around. 30 stitches.
Round 24: Repeat 3 sc, dec around. 24 stitches.

Stuff the head firmly, making the forehead rounded and the lower portion slightly narrower. Leave a long yarn tail. Do not attach the head until the muzzle, eyes, ears, and crown decorations have been positioned.

Long Rounded Muzzle

The muzzle begins at the flat nose end and gradually widens toward the head. Use green yarn.

Round 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 stitches.
Round 2: Inc around. 12 stitches.
Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 stitches.
Round 4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 stitches.
Round 5: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 stitches.
Round 6: Working in BLO, sc around. 30 stitches.
Rounds 7–10: Sc around. 30 stitches.
Round 11: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 36 stitches.
Rounds 12–17: Sc around. 36 stitches.
Round 18: Repeat 5 sc, inc around. 42 stitches.
Rounds 19–23: Sc around. 42 stitches.

Stuff the nose end firmly. Add slightly less stuffing along the center so the muzzle remains long instead of becoming spherical. Pin the 42-stitch opening horizontally across the lower front of the skull.

The top of the muzzle should sit just below the eye area. Sew it to the skull in an oval approximately 4½ inches wide and 3¼ inches high. Add stuffing before closing the final inch of the seam.

Raised Nostrils

Make two with green yarn and the 2.75 mm hook.

Round 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 stitches.
Round 2: Sc around. 6 stitches.
Round 3: Sc around. 6 stitches.

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FO, leaving a sewing tail. Do not stuff. Flatten each piece lightly and sew to the upper nose approximately 1 inch apart. Use dark green yarn to make one short curved nostril stitch across the center of each bump.

White Eye Discs

Make two with white yarn.

Round 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 stitches.
Round 2: Inc around. 12 stitches.
Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 stitches.
Round 4: Sc around. 18 stitches.

FO with a long tail. Place the eye discs close together above the muzzle. The inner edges should be approximately ¼ inch apart. The upper edges should tilt slightly outward to create the wide, curious expression shown in the image.

Black Pupils

Make two with black yarn.

Round 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. Join with a sl st. 6 stitches.

FO and sew one pupil slightly toward the inner lower side of each white eye. Add one tiny white embroidery stitch at the upper edge of each pupil for reflected light.

Green Side Ears

Make two. These softly rounded ears sit behind the eyes and beneath the head decorations.

Round 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 stitches.
Round 2: Inc around. 12 stitches.
Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 stitches.
Round 4: Sc around. 18 stitches.

FO and flatten each circle. Fold the lower third inward and secure it with two stitches. Sew one ear to each side of the head with the centers aligned near Head Round 13.

Small Ivory Tooth

Using cream yarn, ch 3. Work 1 sc in the second ch from the hook and 1 sl st in the final ch. FO. Fold the chain slightly and sew it beneath the right side of the muzzle so approximately ¼ inch remains visible.

Mouth Line

Thread dark green yarn through the needle. Embroider a shallow curved line beginning beneath the left nostril area and ending near the visible tooth. Keep the line approximately 2½ inches long and position it slightly below the vertical center of the muzzle.

Arms and Hands

Long Green Arms

Make two with green yarn. Begin at the rounded hand.

Round 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 stitches.
Round 2: Inc around. 12 stitches.
Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 stitches.
Rounds 4–6: Sc around. 18 stitches.
Round 7: Repeat 1 sc, dec around. 12 stitches.
Rounds 8–24: Sc around. 12 stitches.

Stuff the hand firmly and the arm lightly. Flatten the final round. Do not add stuffing to the final 1 inch because the upper arm must lie smoothly against the body.

Thumbs

Make two with green yarn.

Round 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 stitches.
Rounds 2–4: Sc around. 6 stitches.

FO and flatten. Sew one thumb to the inner side of each hand between Arm Rounds 4 and 7. Angle both thumbs slightly upward so the hands appear relaxed.

Legs and Green Feet

Make two. Begin with green yarn at the toe and change to teal for the pants leg.

Foundation: Ch 8.
Round 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook and in the next 5 ch, 3 sc in the last ch, work along the opposite side with 5 sc, then 2 sc in the first foundation ch. 16 stitches.
Round 2: Inc, 5 sc, inc in each of the next 3 stitches, 5 sc, inc in each of the final 2 stitches. 22 stitches.
Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc once, 5 sc, repeat 1 sc, inc three times, 5 sc, repeat 1 sc, inc twice. 28 stitches.
Round 4: Working in BLO, sc around. 28 stitches.
Rounds 5–8: Sc around. 28 stitches.
Round 9: 8 sc, dec six times, 8 sc. 22 stitches.
Round 10: 6 sc, dec five times, 6 sc. 17 stitches.
Round 11: Sc around. 17 stitches.
Round 12: Change to teal. Working in BLO, repeat 3 sc, inc four times, then 1 sc. 21 stitches.
Rounds 13–17: Sc around. 21 stitches.
Round 18: Repeat 5 sc, dec three times. 18 stitches.
Rounds 19–22: Sc around. 18 stitches.

Stuff the foot firmly, shaping a broad rounded toe. Stuff the pants leg lightly. Flatten the upper opening horizontally and sew closed through both layers with 9 sc.

Attach the legs to the lower front of the body approximately 2 inches apart. Angle each leg outward by about 20 degrees. The feet should rest flat when the dragon is placed in a seated position.

Long Curved Tail

Use green yarn. Stuff gradually while working. Keep the tip soft and place firmer stuffing in the wider base.

Round 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 stitches.
Rounds 2–8: Sc around. 6 stitches.
Round 9: Repeat 2 sc, inc twice. 8 stitches.
Rounds 10–14: Sc around. 8 stitches.
Round 15: Repeat 3 sc, inc twice. 10 stitches.
Rounds 16–22: Sc around. 10 stitches.
Round 23: Repeat 4 sc, inc twice. 12 stitches.
Rounds 24–30: Sc around. 12 stitches.
Round 31: Repeat 5 sc, inc twice. 14 stitches.
Rounds 32–38: Sc around. 14 stitches.
Round 39: Repeat 6 sc, inc twice. 16 stitches.
Rounds 40–46: Sc around. 16 stitches.
Round 47: Repeat 7 sc, inc twice. 18 stitches.
Rounds 48–52: Sc around. 18 stitches.

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FO with a long tail. Curve the tail into a tall hook shape. Use matching yarn to make three small hidden tacking stitches along the inner curve. Attach the wide end to the rear right side of the body between Body Rounds 12 and 22.

Orange Dragon Spikes

Small Spike

Make five with orange yarn.

Row 1: Ch 7. Sc in the second ch from the hook and across. 6 stitches.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Dec, 2 sc, dec. 4 stitches.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Dec twice. 2 stitches.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Dec. 1 stitch.

Medium Spike

Make five with orange yarn.

Row 1: Ch 9. Sc in the second ch from the hook and across. 8 stitches.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Dec, 4 sc, dec. 6 stitches.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Dec, 2 sc, dec. 4 stitches.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Dec twice. 2 stitches.
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Dec. 1 stitch.

Large Spike

Make three with orange yarn.

Row 1: Ch 11. Sc in the second ch from the hook and across. 10 stitches.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Dec, 6 sc, dec. 8 stitches.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Dec, 4 sc, dec. 6 stitches.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Dec, 2 sc, dec. 4 stitches.
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Dec twice. 2 stitches.
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Dec. 1 stitch.

Work a neat line of sc around the two sloping sides of each spike. Leave the foundation edge unworked for sewing.

Place three small spikes along the top of the head. Continue down the neck with four medium spikes. Add three large spikes to the upper back, one medium spike near the tail base, and two small spikes farther along the tail.

Blue Dragon Wings

Make two with bright blue yarn. Work the second wing as a mirror image by placing decreases on the opposite edge.

First Wing

Row 1: Ch 15. Sc in the second ch from the hook and across. 14 stitches.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Dec, 12 sc. 13 stitches.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 11 sc, dec. 12 stitches.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Dec, 10 sc. 11 stitches.
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 9 sc, dec. 10 stitches.
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Dec, 8 sc. 9 stitches.
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 7 sc, dec. 8 stitches.
Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Dec, 6 sc. 7 stitches.

Scalloped Wing Edge

Rotate the wing and work along the stepped outer edge. Sc in the first row-end. In the second row-end work sc, ch 3, sl st in the second ch from the hook, ch 1, sc.

Sc in each of the next two row-ends. Repeat the pointed group in the next row-end. Sc in the next two row-ends, then repeat the pointed group in the final row-end. Continue sc evenly around the remaining edges.

FO with a long tail. Embroider three raised blue chain-stitch veins from the narrow base toward the three outer points.

Sew the narrow straight edge of each wing to the upper back, approximately ¾ inch below the shoulder line. Angle the wings upward by about 25 degrees so they remain visible behind the vest and arms.

Mustard Cable Vest

Use mustard yarn and the 3.75 mm hook. The vest is worked from the lower edge upward in one piece, then divided for the fronts and back.

Lower Vest

Foundation: Ch 57.
Row 1, RS: Hdc in the third ch from the hook and in each remaining ch. 56 stitches.
Row 2, WS: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in 4 stitches, BPdc around the next 4 stitches, hdc in 40 stitches, BPdc around the next 4 stitches, hdc in the final 4 stitches. 56 stitches.
Row 3, RS: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in 4 stitches, C4F across the next 4 post stitches, hdc in 40 stitches, C4F across the next 4 post stitches, hdc in the final 4 stitches. 56 stitches.
Rows 4–10: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, ending after a WS row. 56 stitches.

Place markers after the first 16 stitches, after the next 4 stitches, after the next 16 stitches, and after the following 4 stitches. The sections are right front, first underarm, back, second underarm, and left front.

Right Front

Join yarn to the first 16-stitch section. Keep the cable aligned over the original cable column. The neckline edge is the edge nearest the center opening.

Row 11: Work 16 stitches in the established pattern.
Row 12: Work in pattern to the final 2 stitches, hdc2tog. 15 stitches.
Rows 13–19: Repeat Row 12, decreasing once at the neckline edge in every row. 8 stitches remain after Row 19.
Row 20: Ch 2, turn. Hdc across. 8 stitches.

FO with a long shoulder-seaming tail.

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Back

Skip the four marked underarm stitches and join yarn to the next 16-stitch section.

Rows 11–20: Ch 2, turn as needed and hdc across all 16 stitches. 16 stitches.

FO. The back remains straight to create two 8-stitch shoulder sections.

Left Front

Skip the next four underarm stitches and join yarn to the final 16-stitch section. The neckline decreases are worked at the beginning of each row.

Row 11: Work 16 stitches in the established pattern.
Row 12: Ch 2, turn. Hdc2tog, then work in pattern across. 15 stitches.
Rows 13–19: Repeat Row 12, decreasing once at the neckline edge in every row. 8 stitches remain after Row 19.
Row 20: Ch 2, turn. Hdc across. 8 stitches.

FO with a long shoulder-seaming tail.

Shoulder Seams

Lay the vest flat with the RS facing inward. Sew each 8-stitch front shoulder to the corresponding 8-stitch section of the back. Turn the vest RS out.

Armhole Edging

Join mustard yarn at the bottom of one armhole. Work 28 sc evenly around the opening and join with a sl st. Repeat for the second armhole. Keep the edging relaxed so it does not pull against the dragon’s arms.

Front and Neck Edging

Join yarn at the lower corner of the right front. Work 22 sc evenly up the right front edge, 12 sc around the back neck, and 22 sc down the left front edge. Ch 1 and turn.

Sc in the first 5 stitches, ch 2 and skip 1 stitch. Sc in the next 5 stitches, ch 2 and skip 1 stitch. Sc in the next 5 stitches, ch 2 and skip 1 stitch. Sc in every remaining stitch.

Ch 1, turn. Sc in every sc and work 2 sc in each ch-2 button loop. FO.

Lower Border and Buttons

Join yarn at one lower front corner. Sc evenly across the full lower edge, working 3 sc in each outer corner. Add one more sc row if a heavier border is desired.

Sew three small decorative buttons to the opposite front band, aligning them with the three button loops. The lowest button should sit approximately 1 inch above the lower edge.

Crossbody Garden Tool Satchel

Satchel Back and Flap

Use light taupe or medium brown yarn and the 3.25 mm hook.

Foundation: Ch 21.
Rows 1–19: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. 20 stitches.
Row 20: Ch 1, turn. Sc in 8 stitches, ch 4, skip 4 stitches, sc in the final 8 stitches. 20 stitch positions.
Rows 21–22: Ch 1, turn. Sc across, working 4 sc in the ch-4 space on Row 21. 20 stitches.

FO. Rows 1–14 form the back. Rows 15–22 form the folding flap.

Satchel Front

Foundation: Ch 21.
Rows 1–14: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. 20 stitches.

FO.

Satchel Gusset

Foundation: Ch 4.
Rows 1–48: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. 3 stitches.

FO with a long tail. Sew the gusset down one side of the front, across the bottom, and up the opposite side. Sew the remaining gusset edge to the corresponding sides and bottom of the back.

Fold the flap over the front and sew a small button beneath the buttonhole. Add a tiny orange yarn loop near the side pocket to resemble the visible garden tool handle.

Satchel Strap

Foundation: Ch 101.
Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook and across. 100 stitches.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. 100 stitches.

FO. Sew one end to each upper side of the satchel. Place the strap diagonally across the dragon from the left shoulder to the right hip.

Front Tool Pocket

Foundation: Ch 9.
Rows 1–10: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. 8 stitches.

Sew the lower edge and two side edges to the front of the satchel. Leave the upper edge open for the miniature trowel.

Miniature Garden Trowel

Orange Handle

Round 1: With orange yarn, work 6 sc in an MR. 6 stitches.
Rounds 2–9: Sc around. 6 stitches.

Stuff with a small strand of yarn. FO.

Gray Trowel Blade

Row 1: With gray yarn, ch 5. Sc in the second ch from the hook and across. 4 stitches.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Inc, 2 sc, inc. 6 stitches.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. 6 stitches.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Dec, 2 sc, dec. 4 stitches.
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Dec twice. 2 stitches.
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Dec. 1 stitch.

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Work sc evenly around the blade. Sew the broad upper edge to the orange handle. Place the trowel inside the front satchel pocket with the gray blade hanging below the pocket edge.

Red Garden Flower for the Vest

Flower Center

With yellow yarn, work 6 sc in an MR. Join with a sl st and FO.

Red Petals

Join red yarn to any center stitch. Repeat the following in each of the 6 stitches: ch 3, 2 dc in the same stitch, ch 3, sl st in the same stitch. Six petals are completed.

Stem and Leaves

With dark green yarn, ch 13 and sl st back through all 12 chains. For each leaf, ch 6, sc in the second ch, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, then sl st back to the stem.

Make two leaves. Sew the flower and stem to the dragon’s left side, allowing the blossom to rise beside the vest and arm.

Striped Garden Sandals

Lower Soles

Make two with teal yarn.

Foundation: Ch 12.
Round 1: Sc in the second ch and in the next 9 ch, 3 sc in the final ch, work 9 sc along the opposite side, then 2 sc in the first foundation ch. 24 stitches.
Round 2: Inc, 9 sc, inc in each of the next 3 stitches, 9 sc, inc in each of the final 2 stitches. 30 stitches.
Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc once, 9 sc, repeat 1 sc, inc three times, 9 sc, repeat 1 sc, inc twice. 36 stitches.
Round 4: Sc around. 36 stitches.

Upper Soles

Make two identical sole pieces with beige yarn. Do not FO the beige piece after Round 4.

Place one beige sole over one teal sole with WS together. Using burnt orange yarn, sc through both layers around all 36 stitches. Join with a sl st and FO.

Striped Toe Straps

Make two.

Row 1: With teal yarn, ch 19. Hdc in the third ch from the hook and across. 17 stitches.
Row 2: Change to cream. Ch 2, turn. Hdc across. 17 stitches.
Row 3: Change to orange. Ch 2, turn. Hdc across. 17 stitches.
Row 4: Change to teal. Ch 2, turn. Hdc across. 17 stitches.

Sew each strap across the forefoot section of one sole. Check that the green foot slides beneath the strap before securing the second end.

Heel Straps

For each sandal, ch 24 with teal yarn. Sl st in the second ch from the hook and across. Sew one end to each side of the back half of the sole.

Small Carrot Decoration

Round 1: With orange yarn, work 6 sc in an MR. 6 stitches.
Rounds 2–4: Sc around. 6 stitches.
Round 5: Dec three times. 3 stitches.

FO. Add three green leaves by joining green yarn to the top, ch 4, sl st back through the chain, and repeating twice more. Sew the carrot to the outer side of one sandal.

Small Leaf Decoration

With green yarn, ch 7. Beginning in the second ch, work sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, and 3 sc in the final ch. Continue down the opposite side with hdc, dc, dc, hdc, and sc. Join with a sl st.

Embroider a center vein and sew the leaf to the outer side of the second sandal.

Beige Garden Sun Hat

Use beige yarn and the 3.25 mm hook. Work in continuous rounds.

Round 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 stitches.
Round 2: Inc around. 12 stitches.
Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 stitches.
Round 4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 stitches.
Round 5: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 stitches.
Round 6: Repeat 4 sc, inc around. 36 stitches.
Round 7: Repeat 5 sc, inc around. 42 stitches.
Round 8: Working in BLO, sc around. 42 stitches.
Rounds 9–14: Sc around. 42 stitches.
Round 15: Working in FLO, repeat 6 sc, inc around. 48 stitches.
Round 16: Repeat 7 sc, inc around. 54 stitches.
Round 17: Sc around. 54 stitches.
Round 18: Repeat 8 sc, inc around. 60 stitches.
Round 19: Repeat 9 sc, inc around. 66 stitches.
Round 20: Sc around. 66 stitches.
Round 21: Repeat 10 sc, inc around. 72 stitches.
Round 22: Repeat 11 sc, inc around. 78 stitches.
Round 23: Repeat 12 sc, inc around. 84 stitches.
Round 24: Sc around. 84 stitches.

FO and weave in the end. Steam only very lightly from a distance if the brim requires flattening.

Blue Hatband

With blue yarn, ch 48. Sl st in the first ch to form a ring, making sure the chain is not twisted. Sc in every chain and join with a sl st. FO and sew around the base of the crown.

Pink Spiral Rose

Foundation: With pink yarn, ch 31.
Row 1: Work 2 hdc in the third ch from the hook and 3 hdc in each remaining ch.

FO with a long tail. The strip will curl naturally. Roll it tightly from one end to form a rose and secure the layers through the base.

Rose Leaves

Make two with green yarn using the small leaf instructions from the sandals. Sew the leaves and rose to the side of the blue hatband.

Blue Watering Can

Main Can

Use blue yarn and the 3.25 mm hook.

Round 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 stitches.
Round 2: Inc around. 12 stitches.
Round 3: Repeat 1 sc, inc around. 18 stitches.
Round 4: Repeat 2 sc, inc around. 24 stitches.
Round 5: Repeat 3 sc, inc around. 30 stitches.
Round 6: Working in BLO, sc around. 30 stitches.
Rounds 7–15: Sc around. 30 stitches.
Round 16: Sl st loosely around the upper edge. 30 stitches.

FO. Leave the top open. Place a small round piece of plastic canvas inside the bottom when a firmer display accessory is desired.

Watering Can Spout

Round 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. Do not pull the ring completely closed. 6 stitches.
Rounds 2–4: Sc around. 6 stitches.
Round 5: Repeat 2 sc, inc twice. 8 stitches.
Rounds 6–8: Sc around. 8 stitches.
Round 9: Repeat 3 sc, inc twice. 10 stitches.
Rounds 10–12: Sc around. 10 stitches.

Stuff lightly. Sew the 10-stitch base to the lower side of the can, angling the spout upward. Join yarn around the narrow tip and work 9 sc evenly around the opening to create the small flared lip.

Watering Can Handle

Foundation: Ch 26.
Row 1: Hdc in the third ch from the hook and across. 24 stitches.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Hdc across. 24 stitches.

FO. Sew one end near the upper back edge of the can and the other end near the lower back edge, creating a rounded handle.

Sunflower Seed Packet

Packet Panels

Make two with cream yarn and the 2.75 mm hook.

Foundation: Ch 13.
Rows 1–16: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. 12 stitches.

Place the two panels together. Sc through both layers along three sides. Insert a small rectangle of white felt or plastic canvas, then sc the final edge closed.

White Label

Foundation: Ch 9 with white yarn.
Rows 1–9: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. 8 stitches.

Sew the label to the front of the cream packet. Using blue embroidery thread or fine yarn, stitch the word Sunflower across the upper label.

Tiny Sunflower

With brown yarn, work 6 sc in an MR and join. Change to yellow. In each brown stitch work ch 3, hdc in the second ch, sc in the next ch, then sl st in the same brown stitch.

Embroider a short green stem and two leaves below the flower. Sew the sunflower to the center of the white label.

White Daisy Head Decoration

Yellow Center

With yellow yarn, work 8 sc in an MR. Join with a sl st.

White Petals

Join white yarn to any center stitch. Repeat in each of the 8 stitches: ch 5, sc in the second ch from the hook, hdc in the next ch, dc in the next ch, hdc in the final ch, then sl st in the same center stitch.

FO. Sew the daisy beside the dragon’s right ear. Keep the yellow center facing forward and allow two petals to overlap the ear edge.

Small Ladybug Head Decoration

Red Body

Round 1: With red yarn, work 6 sc in an MR. 6 stitches.
Round 2: Inc around. 12 stitches.
Round 3: Sc around. 12 stitches.

FO. Add a short black embroidered line down the center of the back and four small black French knots for spots.

Black Head

With black yarn, work 6 sc in an MR. Join and FO. Sew the black circle to one end of the red body. Add two tiny white eye stitches.

Sew the ladybug to the upper left side of the dragon’s head, immediately in front of the first orange crown spike.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Pin the completed head to the top of the neck. Tilt the muzzle forward and slightly downward by approximately 10 degrees.
Sew the head securely to all 24 neck stitches. Reinforce the seam by passing the yarn through the skull and neck several times.
Attach the arms beneath the vest armholes. Position the hands near the lower front of the vest.
Sew the legs to the lower body with the knees and feet angled outward. Check that both sandal soles touch the display surface.
Attach the tail to the rear right side and secure its upward curve with hidden stitches.
Sew the blue wings behind the arms and in front of the largest back spikes.
Dress the dragon in the cable vest before permanently placing the satchel strap.
Slide the sandals onto the feet and secure each heel strap with two hidden stitches.
Place the satchel at the right hip. Tack the strap to the left shoulder and the bag to the body so it remains in position.
Adjust the eyes so both pupils point slightly inward. Add dark green eyebrows with one short embroidery stitch above each white eye if desired.
Use green yarn to add three tiny toe-separation stitches to each visible foot.
Arrange the hat, watering can, and seed packet beside the dragon to complete the garden scene.

Care Notes

Keep the finished dragon away from open flames, high heat, and prolonged direct sunlight.
Do not pull the satchel strap, flower stems, wings, or small garden tools.
Support the head and neck when moving the finished dragon.
Store the hat flat so the brim does not develop a permanent fold.
Check sewn buttons and small decorations regularly when the project is handled often.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

Both eyes are level and the pupils face slightly inward.
The muzzle is centered below the eyes and firmly stuffed.
The head tilts forward without causing the neck to bend.
The vest cables appear on both front panels.
All three vest buttons align with the button loops.
The wings are symmetrical and angled upward.
The orange spikes form one continuous line from the crown toward the tail.
The legs support the seated pose without twisting.
The sandals fit securely around the green feet.
The trowel remains visible inside the satchel pocket.
The ladybug, daisy, flower, and rose are firmly attached.
All yarn tails are woven through several stitches and trimmed.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For light dust, use a clean soft brush or a lint roller with very low adhesion. Brush in the direction of the crochet stitches and support delicate pieces with your free hand.

For spot cleaning, mix cool water with a small amount of gentle detergent. Dab the stained area with a white cloth. Do not rub, twist, or fully soak the stuffed neck, head, satchel, or watering can.

Remove excess moisture by pressing the cleaned area between dry towels. Reshape the muzzle, ears, wings, vest, hat brim, and tail while damp. Allow every piece to air-dry completely on a flat surface.

Do not place the finished dragon in a tumble dryer. Avoid bleach, fabric softener, strong stain remover, and hot water because these may weaken the fibers, fade the colors, or distort the stuffing.

For long-term storage, wrap the dragon loosely in acid-free tissue and place it in a breathable container. Store the hat and watering can beside the dragon instead of placing heavy items on top of them.