Crochet Tutorial: Aviator Teddy Bear in Shearling Flight Hat with Striped Scarf and Travel Accessories – Free Crochet Pattern.

This detailed amigurumi pattern creates a warmly dressed aviator teddy bear with a rounded muzzle, brown flight hat, cream shearling trim, blue-lensed goggles, striped scarf, open travel jacket, white shirt, brown trousers, flower sandals, and a blue crossbody bag. The complete display also includes a tiny bee, camera, handled basket with gingham cloth, and two cheerful sunflowers.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size and Skill Level

The finished teddy bear measures approximately 17–18 inches tall when made with medium-weight yarn and the recommended hook. The exact height may change slightly according to yarn tension, stuffing firmness, and the thickness of the shearling yarn.

• Skill level: Intermediate amigurumi
• Finished bear height: Approximately 17–18 inches
• Head width: Approximately 6 inches
• Body width: Approximately 4½ inches
• Construction: Separate pieces sewn together
• Terminology: US crochet terms

Materials

• Medium-weight number 4 cotton or cotton-acrylic yarn in warm beige for the bear
• Medium-weight yarn in dark brown for trousers, hat, goggles, nose, sandals, and camera details
• Medium-weight yarn in cream for the jacket
• Medium-weight yarn in white for the shirt, bee wings, and gingham cloth
• Medium-weight yarn in denim blue for the scarf, jacket edging, bag, and goggles
• Medium-weight yarn in bright red for scarf stripes, jacket accents, and gingham cloth
• Medium-weight yarn in yellow for the bee and sandal flowers
• Medium-weight yarn in black for the bee stripes, camera lens, and facial embroidery
• Medium-weight yarn in gray for the miniature camera
• Medium-weight yarn in green for sunflower leaves
• Medium-weight yarn in golden brown for the basket and sunflower centers
• Bulky cream faux-fur or fluffy yarn for the shearling hat trim
• 3.25 mm crochet hook for the main amigurumi pieces
• 2.50 mm crochet hook for small accessories and appliqués
• 4.00 mm crochet hook for faux-fur yarn
• Two 16 mm black safety eyes
• One 12 mm brown button for the travel bag
• Polyester fiberfill
• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Straight pins
• Small amount of plastic canvas for the bag and camera, optional
• Small gold-tone anchor charm, optional

Gauge

Using the 3.25 mm hook and medium-weight yarn, 22 single crochet stitches and 24 rounds should measure approximately 4 inches. Gauge is less important than creating a firm fabric with no visible stuffing gaps.

If your stitches appear loose, change to a smaller hook. If the fabric becomes extremely stiff and difficult to work, move up by 0.25 mm. Keep the same tension throughout the head, body, arms, legs, and muzzle.

Abbreviations

• MR: Magic ring
• ch: Chain
• sl st: Slip stitch
• sc: Single crochet
• hdc: Half double crochet
• dc: Double crochet
• inc: Work 2 single crochet stitches in one stitch
• dec: Invisible single crochet decrease over the next 2 stitches
• BLO: Back loop only
• FLO: Front loop only
• st or sts: Stitch or stitches
• rnd or rnds: Round or rounds
• rep: Repeat

Important Pattern Notes

• Work the amigurumi pieces in continuous spiral rounds unless a joined round is specifically requested.
• Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round.
• Use invisible decreases for smooth shaping.
• Stuff gradually rather than forcing all the stuffing into a piece at the end.
• Change color by completing the final yarn-over of the previous stitch with the new color.
• Keep the face centered opposite the round marker or use an additional marker to identify the front.
• For a child younger than three years, embroider the eyes instead of using safety eyes.

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Teddy Bear Head

Use warm beige yarn and the 3.25 mm hook. The head is intentionally large and rounded, matching the gentle proportions of the pictured aviator bear.

1. Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Rep 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Rep 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: Rep 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Rep 4 sc, inc around. 36 sts.
7. Rnd 7: Rep 5 sc, inc around. 42 sts.
8. Rnd 8: Rep 6 sc, inc around. 48 sts.
9. Rnd 9: Rep 7 sc, inc around. 54 sts.
10. Rnd 10: Rep 8 sc, inc around. 60 sts.
11. Rnd 11: Rep 9 sc, inc around. 66 sts.
12. Rnd 12: Rep 10 sc, inc around. 72 sts.
13. Rnds 13–28: Sc in each st around. 72 sts.
14. Rnd 29: Rep 10 sc, dec around. 66 sts.
15. Rnd 30: Rep 9 sc, dec around. 60 sts.
16. Rnd 31: Rep 8 sc, dec around. 54 sts.
17. Rnd 32: Rep 7 sc, dec around. 48 sts.
18. Rnd 33: Rep 6 sc, dec around. 42 sts.
19. Rnd 34: Rep 5 sc, dec around. 36 sts.
20. Rnd 35: Rep 4 sc, dec around. 30 sts.

Insert the safety eyes between Rnds 21 and 22. Leave 15 visible stitches between the inner edges of the eyes. Before attaching the washers, verify that both eyes are level and centered above the future muzzle.

Stuff the forehead and cheeks firmly. Add smaller pieces of stuffing around the eyes to keep them from sinking. Leave the final 30-stitch opening unclosed because it will be used to attach the head to the body.

Rounded Muzzle

Use a slightly lighter beige yarn if available. The muzzle should be broad, oval, and softly raised rather than sharply pointed.

1. Foundation: Ch 10.
2. Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next 8 ch, work 3 sc in the last ch, continue along the opposite side with 7 sc, then work 2 sc in the final ch. 20 sts.
3. Rnd 2: Inc, 7 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 7 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sts. 26 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Rep 1 sc, inc once, 7 sc, rep 1 sc, inc three times, 7 sc, rep 1 sc, inc twice. 32 sts.
5. Rnd 4: Rep 2 sc, inc once, 7 sc, rep 2 sc, inc three times, 7 sc, rep 2 sc, inc twice. 38 sts.
6. Rnds 5–7: Sc in each st around. 38 sts.

Fasten off with a long sewing tail. Position the muzzle between Head Rnds 22 and 31. Its top edge should sit approximately two rounds below the eyes. Pin the oval carefully so that equal amounts extend to the left and right.

Sew around three-quarters of the muzzle, add a light layer of stuffing, and complete the seam. Do not overstuff. The muzzle should remain broad and softly flattened against the face.

Crocheted Nose

Use dark brown yarn and the 2.50 mm hook. The nose is a small rounded triangle centered at the upper portion of the muzzle.

1. Row 1: Ch 7. Starting in the second ch, work 6 sc. Ch 1 and turn. 6 sts.
2. Row 2: Dec, 2 sc, dec. Ch 1 and turn. 4 sts.
3. Row 3: Dec twice. Ch 1 and turn. 2 sts.
4. Row 4: Dec. 1 st.

Work one round of sl st evenly around the triangle. Fasten off with a long tail. Sew the nose to the center of the muzzle with the widest edge positioned horizontally.

Using dark brown yarn, embroider one straight vertical line approximately ¾ inch long below the nose. Add two short curved mouth lines extending downward and outward from the bottom of the vertical line.

Bear Ears

Make two with warm beige yarn and the 3.25 mm hook.

1. Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Rep 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Rep 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: Rep 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Sc in each st around. 30 sts.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff. Flatten each ear into a semicircle. Sew the open edges together through both layers.

Position the ears at the upper sides of the head between Head Rnds 10 and 18. Angle the top of each ear approximately 15 degrees outward. The flight hat will cover the lower ear seams, while the rounded upper portions remain visible.

Body

Use warm beige yarn and the 3.25 mm hook.

1. Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Rep 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Rep 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: Rep 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Rep 4 sc, inc around. 36 sts.
7. Rnd 7: Rep 5 sc, inc around. 42 sts.
8. Rnd 8: Rep 6 sc, inc around. 48 sts.
9. Rnds 9–24: Sc in each st around. 48 sts.
10. Rnd 25: Rep 6 sc, dec around. 42 sts.
11. Rnds 26–30: Sc in each st around. 42 sts.
12. Rnd 31: Rep 5 sc, dec around. 36 sts.
13. Rnds 32–34: Sc in each st around. 36 sts.

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Stuff the body firmly, concentrating extra stuffing around the lower center so the bear remains balanced. Leave a long tail for attaching the head.

Legs and Feet

Make two with warm beige yarn and the 3.25 mm hook. Begin at the front of each foot and work upward.

1. Foundation: Ch 7.
2. Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch, work 5 sc, 3 sc in the final ch, 4 sc along the opposite side, and 2 sc in the last ch. 14 sts.
3. Rnd 2: Inc, 4 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 4 sc, inc in each of the next 2 sts. 20 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Rep 1 sc, inc once, 4 sc, rep 1 sc, inc three times, 4 sc, rep 1 sc, inc twice. 26 sts.
5. Rnd 4: Sc in each st around. 26 sts.
6. Rnd 5: BLO sc in each st around. 26 sts.
7. Rnd 6: 8 sc, dec five times, 8 sc. 21 sts.
8. Rnd 7: 6 sc, dec four times, 7 sc. 17 sts.
9. Rnds 8–21: Sc in each st around. 17 sts.

Stuff each foot firmly, especially at the toe. Stuff the ankle and upper leg more lightly so the leg can be positioned naturally. Flatten the final opening and work 8 sc through both layers to close.

Pin the legs to the underside of the body with approximately six stitches between their inner edges. The toes should point directly forward. Sew each leg securely through the flattened upper edge, then reinforce the seam with a second pass.

Brown Trousers

Trouser Legs

Make two with dark brown yarn and the 3.25 mm hook.

1. Foundation: Ch 23 and join with a sl st, taking care not to twist. 22 ch.
2. Rnd 1: Ch 1, BLO sc in each ch around, join with a sl st. 22 sts.
3. Rnd 2: Sc in each st around. 22 sts.
4. Rnd 3: FLO sc in each st around. 22 sts.
5. Rnds 4–14: Sc in each st around. 22 sts.

Fasten off. Fold Rnds 1–2 upward along the unused front loops of Rnd 2 to create a rolled trouser cuff. Tack the cuff at the inner and outer sides with matching yarn.

Hip and Waist Section

1. Foundation: Ch 49 and join with a sl st. 48 ch.
2. Rnds 1–9: Sc in each st around. 48 sts.
3. Rnd 10: BLO sc in each st around. 48 sts.
4. Rnd 11: Sc in each st around. 48 sts.

Fasten off. Slide the trouser legs onto the bear’s legs. Slide the waist section over the lower body. Sew 22 stitches of each trouser leg to the lower edge of the waist section.

Four stitches remain between the trouser legs. Use two for the front crotch and two for the back crotch. Stitch these areas closed neatly. Sew the top of the waistband to the body so it sits just below Body Rnd 16.

White Shirt

Use white yarn and the 3.25 mm hook. The shirt is a simple fitted shell visible between the open jacket fronts.

1. Foundation: Ch 43 and join with a sl st. 42 ch.
2. Rnds 1–14: Sc in each st around. 42 sts.
3. Rnd 15: Rep 5 sc, dec around. 36 sts.
4. Rnds 16–18: Sc in each st around. 36 sts.

Fasten off. Slide the shirt over the body before the head is attached. Position the lower edge beneath the trouser waistband and tack it in place. Keep the front smooth because it remains visible through the jacket opening.

Arms with Jacket Sleeves

Make two. Start with warm beige for the paws, then work the colored cuff and cream sleeve directly onto each arm.

1. Rnd 1: With beige, work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Rep 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
4. Rnds 4–7: Sc in each st around. 18 sts.
5. Rnd 8: Rep 1 sc, dec around. 12 sts.
6. Rnd 9: Change to blue and sc around. 12 sts.
7. Rnd 10: Change to red and sc around. 12 sts.
8. Rnd 11: Change to blue and sc around. 12 sts.
9. Rnd 12: Change to cream and rep 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
10. Rnds 13–27: Sc in each st around. 18 sts.
11. Rnd 28: Rep 4 sc, dec around. 15 sts.

Stuff the paws firmly. Add only a light amount of stuffing to the upper arms. Flatten each opening and work 7 sc through both layers.

Attach the arms at Body Rnds 27–30. Angle each arm approximately 20 degrees forward and downward. The upper seam should be hidden beneath the jacket shoulder. Sew through the body twice for strength.

Cream Travel Jacket

Use cream yarn and the 3.25 mm hook. The jacket is worked flat from the lower hem to the shoulders. It remains open at the front.

Lower Jacket Body

1. Foundation: Ch 57.
2. Row 1: Starting in the second ch, sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 56 sts.
3. Rows 2–14: Sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 56 sts.

Right Front

1. Rows 15–25: Sc in the first 14 sts only. Ch 1 and turn after each row. 14 sts.

Fasten off after Row 25.

Back

1. Row 15: Rejoin yarn in the next unworked stitch of Row 14. Sc across the next 28 sts. Ch 1 and turn. 28 sts.
2. Rows 16–25: Sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 28 sts.

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Fasten off after Row 25.

Left Front

1. Row 15: Rejoin yarn in the final 14 unworked stitches of Row 14. Sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 14 sts.
2. Rows 16–25: Sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 14 sts.

Fasten off. Place the piece around the body. Sew seven stitches of each front shoulder to seven stitches at the corresponding outer edge of the back. Leave the center back and inner front stitches open for the neck.

Blue Jacket Edging

Use blue yarn. Join at the lower right-front corner. Work 56 sc across the hem, 23 sc evenly up the right front, 28 sc around the neck opening, and 23 sc down the left front. Join with a sl st. 130 sts.

Work one additional round of sc in all 130 stitches. Fasten off. Around each armhole, join blue yarn and work 24 sc evenly around. Work one more round of 24 sc and fasten off.

Red Accent Line

Use red yarn and the 2.50 mm hook. Work a line of surface sl st one stitch inside the blue outer border. Begin at one lower front corner, continue around the neckline, and finish at the opposite lower corner.

Add a second red surface sl-st line immediately above the blue hem border. Keep the surface stitches loose enough that the jacket edges do not curl.

Striped Aviator Scarf

Use blue and red yarn with the 3.25 mm hook. The scarf is worked in rows through the back loops to create subtle ribbing.

1. Foundation: With blue, ch 11.
2. Row 1: Starting in the second ch, sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 10 sts.
3. Rows 2–5: BLO sc across with blue. Ch 1 and turn. 10 sts.
4. Rows 6–7: Change to red and BLO sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 10 sts.
5. Rows 8–11: Change to blue and BLO sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 10 sts.

Repeat Rows 6–11 twelve more times. After the final red stripe, work four additional blue rows. The completed scarf contains 86 rows.

Fasten off and weave in the ends. Wrap the scarf once around the neck after the head has been attached. Cross the ends at the bear’s left side and allow one end to hang approximately 4 inches lower than the other.

Aviator Flight Hat

Brown Hat Cap

Use dark brown yarn and the 3.25 mm hook.

1. Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Rep 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Rep 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: Rep 3 sc, inc around. 30 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Rep 4 sc, inc around. 36 sts.
7. Rnd 7: Rep 5 sc, inc around. 42 sts.
8. Rnd 8: Rep 6 sc, inc around. 48 sts.
9. Rnd 9: Rep 7 sc, inc around. 54 sts.
10. Rnd 10: Rep 8 sc, inc around. 60 sts.
11. Rnd 11: Rep 9 sc, inc around. 66 sts.
12. Rnd 12: Rep 10 sc, inc around. 72 sts.
13. Rnds 13–22: Sc in each st around. 72 sts.

Fasten off. Place the cap over the head so its front edge rests near Head Rnd 17 and its back edge reaches approximately Head Rnd 22. The ears should emerge from the sides rather than being fully covered.

Brown Side Panels

Make two with dark brown yarn.

1. Row 1: Ch 15. Starting in the second ch, sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 14 sts.
2. Rows 2–7: Sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 14 sts.
3. Row 8: Dec, 10 sc, dec. Ch 1 and turn. 12 sts.
4. Rows 9–11: Sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 12 sts.
5. Row 12: Dec, 8 sc, dec. Ch 1 and turn. 10 sts.
6. Rows 13–15: Sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 10 sts.

Fasten off. Sew one panel to each side of the cap, beginning just behind the bear’s ear and extending downward beside the cheek. Angle the lower edge slightly toward the front.

Front Shearling Band

Use cream faux-fur yarn and the 4.00 mm hook. Because fluffy stitches can be difficult to see, feel each stitch with your fingers before inserting the hook.

1. Row 1: Ch 49. Starting in the second ch, hdc across. Ch 1 and turn. 48 sts.
2. Rows 2–5: Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn. 48 sts.

Fasten off with a long tail. Sew the band across the front edge of the brown cap. Its lower edge should rest approximately one round above the safety eyes without touching them.

Shearling Ear-Flap Linings

Make two using cream faux-fur yarn and the 4.00 mm hook.

1. Row 1: Ch 13. Starting in the second ch, hdc across. Ch 1 and turn. 12 sts.
2. Rows 2–8: Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn. 12 sts.
3. Row 9: Hdc dec, 8 hdc, hdc dec. Ch 1 and turn. 10 sts.
4. Rows 10–12: Hdc across. Ch 1 and turn. 10 sts.
5. Row 13: Hdc dec, 6 hdc, hdc dec. Ch 1 and turn. 8 sts.
6. Rows 14–15: Hdc across. 8 sts.

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Sew one fluffy lining over each brown side panel, leaving a narrow brown border visible. Brush the fibers gently with your fingers to create a full shearling appearance.

Aviator Goggles

Blue Lenses and Brown Frames

Make two. Begin with light blue yarn and the 2.50 mm hook.

1. Foundation: Ch 9.
2. Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch, work 7 sc, 3 sc in the final ch, 6 sc along the opposite side, and 2 sc in the final ch. 18 sts.
3. Rnd 2: Inc, 6 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 6 sc, inc in each of the final 2 sts. 24 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Rep 1 sc, inc once, 6 sc, rep 1 sc, inc three times, 6 sc, rep 1 sc, inc twice. 30 sts.
5. Rnd 4: Change to brown and sc around. 30 sts.
6. Rnd 5: Rep 4 sc, inc around. 36 sts.

Fasten off. Work a line of brown surface sl st around the boundary between the blue lens and brown frame. This creates the raised inner rim visible on traditional flight goggles.

Goggle Bridge

1. Row 1: With brown, ch 6. Starting in the second ch, sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 5 sts.
2. Rows 2–3: Sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 5 sts.

Sew the short ends of the bridge to the inner edges of the frames, leaving approximately one stitch of space between the frames.

Goggle Strap

1. Row 1: With brown, ch 75. Starting in the second ch, sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 74 sts.
2. Row 2: Sc across. 74 sts.

Fasten off. Sew one end to each outer frame edge. Arrange the strap around the back of the hat. Position the goggles across the crown, directly above the shearling band, and secure them with hidden stitches.

Tiny Bee Decoration

Bee Body

Use the 2.50 mm hook. Begin with yellow yarn.

1. Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: With yellow, sc around. 12 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Change to black and sc around. 12 sts.
5. Rnd 5: Change to yellow and sc around. 12 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Change to black and sc around. 12 sts.
7. Rnd 7: Change to yellow and sc around. 12 sts.
8. Rnd 8: Dec around. 6 sts.

Stuff lightly and close the opening. Embroider two tiny black eyes on the front yellow section.

Bee Wings

Make two with white yarn.

1. Foundation: Ch 5.
2. Wing: Starting in the second ch, work 1 sc, 2 hdc, 5 dc in the final ch, then continue along the opposite side with 2 hdc and 1 sc.

Fasten off. Sew the wings to the upper back of the bee. Attach the bee to the bear’s right side of the hat beside the goggles, with its head angled slightly upward.

Blue Crossbody Travel Bag

Front and Back Panels

Make two with denim-blue yarn and the 3.25 mm hook.

1. Row 1: Ch 22. Starting in the second ch, sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 21 sts.
2. Rows 2–24: Sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 21 sts.

Fasten off. Optional plastic canvas may be cut slightly smaller than each panel to help the bag hold its shape.

Bag Gusset

1. Row 1: Ch 5. Starting in the second ch, sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 4 sts.
2. Rows 2–64: Sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 4 sts.

Fasten off with a long tail. Sew the gusset around one side, the bottom, and the opposite side of the front panel. Sew the back panel to the remaining edge of the gusset.

Rounded Bag Flap

1. Row 1: Ch 22. Starting in the second ch, sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 21 sts.
2. Rows 2–7: Sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 21 sts.
3. Row 8: Dec, 17 sc, dec. Ch 1 and turn. 19 sts.
4. Row 9: Dec, 15 sc, dec. Ch 1 and turn. 17 sts.
5. Row 10: Dec, 13 sc, dec. 15 sts.

Work one round of sc evenly around the flap. Sew the foundation edge to the top back of the bag. Attach a brown button at the center of the bag front and make a small blue chain loop beneath the flap.

Crossbody Strap

1. Row 1: Ch 101. Starting in the second ch, sl st across. 100 sts.
2. Row 2: Turn and sc in each sl st across. 100 sts.

Sew the strap ends securely to the upper side edges of the bag. Place the strap over the bear’s right shoulder so the bag rests against the left hip.

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Anchor Decoration

Use thin gold yarn and the 2.50 mm hook. Ch 10 and fasten off for the anchor stem. Ch 7 and fasten off for the crossbar. Ch 13 and fasten off for the curved lower arms.

Sew the 10-chain stem vertically onto the lower bag front. Sew the seven-chain section horizontally near the top. Curve the 13-chain section into a shallow upward-facing arc at the bottom and secure both ends.

Flower Sandals

Brown Soles

Make two with medium brown yarn and the 3.25 mm hook.

1. Foundation: Ch 8.
2. Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch, work 6 sc, 3 sc in the final ch, 5 sc along the opposite side, and 2 sc in the last ch. 16 sts.
3. Rnd 2: Inc, 5 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 5 sc, inc in each of the final 2 sts. 22 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Rep 1 sc, inc once, 5 sc, rep 1 sc, inc three times, 5 sc, rep 1 sc, inc twice. 28 sts.
5. Rnd 4: BLO sc around. 28 sts.
6. Rnd 5: Sc around. 28 sts.

Fasten off. Slide each sole beneath a foot and sew its upper edge to Foot Rnd 5, leaving the brown sidewall visible.

Toe Straps

Make two with brown yarn.

1. Row 1: Ch 19. Starting in the second ch, sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 18 sts.
2. Row 2: Sc across. 18 sts.

Sew each strap across the upper front of a foot, approximately five rounds behind the toe tip. Keep the strap snug but not tight enough to distort the foot.

Ankle Straps

Make two with brown yarn.

1. Row 1: Ch 23. Starting in the second ch, sc across. 22 sts.

Wrap one strap around each ankle and sew the ends together at the outer side.

Yellow Sandal Flowers

Make two with yellow yarn and the 2.50 mm hook.

1. Center: Work 6 sc in an MR and join with a sl st.
2. Petals: Rep ch 4, sl st in the second ch, sc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, sl st in the next center st six times.

Fasten off. Sew one flower to the outer side of each ankle strap. Place the flower centers slightly forward so they remain clearly visible from the front.

Miniature Travel Camera

Camera Body Panels

Make two with gray yarn and the 2.50 mm hook.

1. Row 1: Ch 17. Starting in the second ch, sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 16 sts.
2. Rows 2–10: Sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 16 sts.

Camera Gusset

1. Row 1: Ch 4. Starting in the second ch, sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 3 sts.
2. Rows 2–48: Sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 3 sts.

Sew the gusset around the edges of the camera panels. Add a small amount of stuffing before closing the final side.

Brown Camera Grip

1. Row 1: With brown, ch 7. Starting in the second ch, sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 6 sts.
2. Rows 2–8: Sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 6 sts.

Sew the grip vertically to the camera front along the left side.

Camera Lens

1. Rnd 1: With black, work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Change to white and rep 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Change to gray and rep 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: BLO sc around. 24 sts.
6. Rnd 6: Sc around. 24 sts.

Stuff the lens very lightly and sew it to the camera front. Add a tiny black embroidered viewfinder at the upper right corner and a small black shutter button along the top edge.

Handled Travel Basket

Basket Base and Walls

Use golden-brown yarn and the 2.50 mm hook.

1. Foundation: Ch 11.
2. Rnd 1: Starting in the second ch, work 9 sc, 3 sc in the final ch, 8 sc along the opposite side, and 2 sc in the last ch. 22 sts.
3. Rnd 2: Inc, 8 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 8 sc, inc in each of the final 2 sts. 28 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Rep 1 sc, inc once, 8 sc, rep 1 sc, inc three times, 8 sc, rep 1 sc, inc twice. 34 sts.
5. Rnd 4: BLO sc around. 34 sts.
6. Rnds 5–13: Sc around. 34 sts.
7. Rnd 14: Reverse sc around for a firm decorative rim. 34 sts.

Fasten off. Press the basket gently into a rectangular shape. Embroider two short closed eyes and a small curved smile on the front using dark brown yarn.

Basket Handles

Make two with golden-brown yarn.

1. Row 1: Ch 25. Starting in the second ch, sl st across. 24 sts.
2. Row 2: Turn and sc across. 24 sts.

Sew the ends of one handle to the front inner rim and the second handle to the back inner rim. Leave approximately eight stitches between the attachment points of each handle.

Red-and-White Gingham Cloth

Use red and white yarn with the 2.50 mm hook. Carry the unused color neatly along the wrong side.

1. Foundation: With white, ch 17.
2. Row 1: Starting in the second ch, work 2 white sc, 2 red sc, repeating across. Ch 1 and turn. 16 sts.
3. Row 2: Repeat the same color sequence. Ch 1 and turn. 16 sts.
4. Rows 3–4: Begin with 2 red sc, then alternate 2 white sc and 2 red sc across. Ch 1 and turn. 16 sts.
5. Rows 5–12: Repeat Rows 1–4 twice more.

Fasten off and weave in the ends. Fold the cloth loosely and place it inside the basket, allowing the red-and-white corners to extend over the rim.

Sunflower Decorations

Large Sunflower Center

Use brown yarn and the 2.50 mm hook.

1. Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Rep 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Rep 2 sc, inc around. 24 sts.

Large Sunflower Petals

Change to yellow. Repeat the following sequence 12 times: ch 6, sl st in the second ch, sc in the next ch, hdc in the next two ch, dc in the final ch, skip one center stitch, and sl st in the next center stitch.

Small Sunflower

1. Rnd 1: With brown, work 6 sc in an MR. 6 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Inc around. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 3: Rep 1 sc, inc around. 18 sts.

Change to yellow. Repeat nine times: ch 5, sl st in the second ch, sc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, dc in the final ch, skip one center stitch, and sl st in the next center stitch.

Green Leaves

Make three with green yarn.

1. Foundation: Ch 7.
2. Leaf: Starting in the second ch, work 1 sl st, 1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, and 3 sc in the final ch. Continue on the opposite side with 1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, and 1 sl st.

Sew one or two leaves behind each sunflower. The flowers may be displayed beside the bear or attached to a short crocheted stem made from 12–16 green chain stitches.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Confirm that the shirt and trousers are securely positioned before attaching the head.
2. Center the head over the body opening and match the head’s 30-stitch opening to the upper body.
3. Sew around the neck twice with strong beige yarn, adding extra stuffing before closing the final section.
4. Check that the muzzle remains centered between the eyes and that the nose points straight forward.
5. Add a tiny dark-brown eyebrow stitch two rounds above the outer corner of each eye, if desired.
6. Place the jacket around the body and guide the arms through the armholes.
7. Tack the jacket at both shoulders, under both arms, and along the lower back.
8. Wrap and secure the scarf without covering the muzzle.
9. Fit the flight hat, then secure it behind the ears, beneath the shearling band, and at the back of the head.
10. Arrange the goggles symmetrically across the top of the hat.
11. Place the blue bag strap over the right shoulder and position the bag at the left hip.

When viewed from the front, the head, muzzle, white shirt panel, trouser opening, and gap between the feet should form one straight center line. Adjust the parts before making the final reinforcing stitches.

Care Notes

• Spot-clean the bear with cool water and a small amount of mild detergent.
• Do not scrub the safety eyes, button, goggles, or anchor decoration.
• Do not place the finished bear in a clothes dryer.
• Reshape the hat, scarf, jacket, bag, and sandals while damp.
• Allow the bear and accessories to air-dry completely on a clean towel.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Both eyes are level and firmly secured.
• The muzzle is centered and evenly stuffed.
• The ears remain visible beside the flight hat.
• The shearling trim sits above the eyes.
• The goggles are evenly spaced and securely attached.
• The scarf shows alternating blue and red bands.
• The jacket edges display both blue and red detailing.
• The trousers have matching rolled cuffs.
• Both sandals include ankle straps and yellow flowers.
• The blue crossbody bag rests at the left hip.
• The bee, camera, basket, cloth, and sunflowers are complete.
• All yarn tails are woven in and every seam is reinforced.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Remove the separate camera, basket, flowers, and other loose display pieces before cleaning. Gently vacuum surface dust through a fine mesh screen or use a soft, clean brush. Avoid pulling directly on the faux-fur fibers.

For a small stain, blot rather than rub. Use a white cloth dampened with cool water. Press a dry towel against the area to remove excess moisture, then allow the piece to dry naturally.

Store the bear upright in a dry location away from direct sunlight. Long exposure to sunlight may fade the red, blue, yellow, and brown yarn. Avoid sealed plastic storage if any moisture remains inside the stuffing.

To preserve the hat shape, place a small roll of acid-free tissue beneath the goggles during long-term storage. Support the crossbody bag with a little tissue so the flap and gusset do not become permanently flattened.

Inspect the eyes, button, anchor, bag strap, bee, sandal flowers, and accessory seams periodically. Repair loose pieces immediately, especially when the finished bear is displayed or handled around children.