Crochet Tutorial: Woodland Fawn Girl in Green Embroidered Cardigan with Mushroom Satchel and Garden Notes – Free Crochet Pattern.

This woodland fawn girl is an amigurumi deer doll with a large sweet head, tan fawn face, cream muzzle and eye patches, soft brown antlers, rounded ears, white forehead spots, a green embroidered cardigan, blue cuffed shorts, Mary Jane shoes, a mushroom satchel, straw garden hat, magnifying glass, pencil, and tiny garden notes.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size

Using worsted weight cotton yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, the finished doll measures about 11 inches tall when seated, excluding the antlers. The head is intentionally large and rounded, the body is slim, and the legs are long enough to hang over a bench edge like the image.

Skill Level

This pattern is suitable for confident beginners who already know how to crochet in continuous rounds. The cardigan, satchel, embroidery, shoes, antlers, and tiny accessories add detail, but every part is written with exact stitch counts and clear placement notes.

Materials

• Worsted weight cotton yarn in warm fawn tan, cream, dark brown, medium brown, forest green, denim blue, pale pink, white, red, straw beige, gray, black, yellow, and soft peach.
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for the doll and main accessories.
• 2.25 mm crochet hook for flowers, mushrooms, straps, and small details.
• 10 mm black safety eyes or glossy black sew-on eyes.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Yarn needle, stitch markers, sewing pins, scissors.
• Three tiny 6 mm wooden buttons for the cardigan and one tiny button for the satchel flap.
• Black embroidery thread for eyelashes, eye outlines, and mouth line.
• Pink blush powder or pink embroidery yarn for cheeks.

Abbreviations in US Terms

• MR = magic ring
• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• inc = 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec = invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• R = round or row
• FO = fasten off

Gauge and Construction Notes

Gauge is important for the clean, dense look shown in the image. Crochet 7 sc and 8 rounds per 1 inch with the 2.5 mm hook. Your stitches should be tight enough that stuffing does not show through the head, legs, and satchel.

Work most amigurumi pieces in continuous rounds. Do not join unless the pattern says to join. Use a stitch marker at the first stitch of every round. Stuff gradually and firmly, especially the head, body, shoes, and lower legs.

The doll is built from the feet upward. The legs are crocheted first, then joined into blue shorts and the cream torso. The head is sewn on separately so the face angle can be adjusted before final stitching.

Color Placement Guide

• Fawn tan: head base, upper face, arms, legs, ears, shoe outer edges.
• Cream: muzzle, large eye patches, neck, chest, socks, shoe tops.
• Dark brown: antlers, hands, satchel strap trim, nose embroidery.
• Forest green: open cardigan, hat band, leaf embroidery.
• Denim blue: shorts and rolled cuffs.
• Straw beige: flat garden hat.
• White: forehead spots, sock trim, tiny flower centers.
• Red: mushroom caps on the satchel.

Head

Use fawn tan yarn and the 2.5 mm hook. The head is a large rounded sphere, slightly wider through the cheeks than the top. Stuff very firmly because the eyes, muzzle, ears, antlers, and facial embroidery all attach to this piece.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: (sc 1, inc) around. (18)
4. R4: (sc 2, inc) around. (24)
5. R5: (sc 3, inc) around. (30)
6. R6: (sc 4, inc) around. (36)
7. R7: (sc 5, inc) around. (42)
8. R8: (sc 6, inc) around. (48)
9. R9: (sc 7, inc) around. (54)
10. R10: (sc 8, inc) around. (60)
11. R11: (sc 9, inc) around. (66)
12. R12-R20: sc around. (66 for 9 rounds)
13. R21: sc 18, inc, sc 28, inc, sc 18. (68)
14. R22-R24: sc around. (68 for 3 rounds)
15. R25: sc 18, dec, sc 28, dec, sc 18. (66)
16. R26: (sc 9, dec) around. (60)
17. R27: (sc 8, dec) around. (54)
18. R28: (sc 7, dec) around. (48)
19. R29: (sc 6, dec) around. (42)
20. R30: (sc 5, dec) around. (36)
21. R31: (sc 4, dec) around. (30)
22. R32: (sc 3, dec) around. (24)

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Insert safety eyes between R18 and R19, about 13 stitches apart. Do not close the head yet if using safety eyes, because the cream eye patches are worked separately and placed around them before the washers are attached.

Cream Eye Patches

Make two oval patches in cream yarn. They sit vertically on the face like soft teardrop ovals, one on each side of the muzzle. They should frame the eyes and create the bright fawn expression shown in the image.

1. Ch 7.
2. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side of chain, sc 4, inc in last st. (14)
3. R2: inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc 2 times. (20)
4. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 5, (sc 1, inc) 3 times, sc 5, (sc 1, inc) 2 times. (26)
5. R4: sc around. (26)
6. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Place each eye patch with its inner edge 2 stitches from the center face line. The top of each patch should reach R15, and the lower curve should sit near R23. Insert each eye through the center of the patch and the head, then secure the washer.

Cream Muzzle

The muzzle is a small raised oval placed between and slightly below the eye patches. It is cream with a brown embroidered nose and a simple vertical mouth line, giving the fawn a gentle woodland expression.

1. Use cream yarn. Ch 6.
2. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, work opposite side, sc 3, inc in last st. (12)
3. R2: inc, sc 3, inc 3 times, sc 3, inc 2 times. (18)
4. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 4, (sc 1, inc) 3 times, sc 4, (sc 1, inc) 2 times. (24)
5. R4: sc around. (24)
6. FO with a long tail.

Lightly stuff the muzzle. Sew it centered over R20-R25 of the head, with the top edge touching the lower inner corners of the eye patches. Use small even stitches so the muzzle edge stays smooth.

Finish the Head Closing

1. R33: (sc 2, dec) around. (18)
2. R34: (sc 1, dec) around. (12)
3. R35: dec around. (6)
4. FO, close the hole, and weave in the end.

Forehead Spots

The image shows small white fawn spots scattered across the upper forehead between the antlers. Embroider them after the head is stuffed so they sit cleanly on the surface without pulling the head out of shape.

• Use white yarn and a yarn needle.
• Make 7 oval spots between R10 and R16.
• Each spot is 2 to 3 stitches wide and 1 round tall.
• Place 3 spots in the center row, 2 above them, and 2 lower near the eye patches.
• Make each spot with 3 satin stitches over the same area.

Ears

Make two fawn tan ears with a slightly cupped shape. The ears are wide, rounded, and sewn to the sides of the head just below the antlers. They angle outward about 35 degrees.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: (sc 1, inc) around. (18)
4. R4: (sc 2, inc) around. (24)
5. R5-R7: sc around. (24)
6. R8: (sc 2, dec) around. (18)
7. R9: (sc 1, dec) around. (12)
8. Flatten the ear and sc through both layers across 6 stitches.
9. FO, leaving a long tail.

With cream or lighter tan yarn, embroider 4 short inner-ear stitches from the base toward the rounded tip. Sew ears between R11 and R18 of the head, about 9 stitches away from the center forehead on each side.

Antlers

Use medium brown yarn. Each antler has a short main stem and two rounded points, creating the soft heart-like shape shown in the image. Stuff lightly with small bits of fiberfill so the antlers stand upright but remain plush.

Small Antler Point, Make Four

1. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. R2: inc around. (10)
3. R3-R5: sc around. (10)
4. FO two points with tails. Do not fasten off the second point when making each antler pair.

Main Antler Stem, Make Two

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: (sc 1, inc) around. (9)
3. R3-R7: sc around. (9)
4. Join one small point to the side by sewing it to R5-R7 of the stem.
5. Sew the second point to R6-R8 on the opposite side, slightly higher.
6. Stuff the stem lightly and flatten the base.
7. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

Sew antlers on top of the head between R6 and R11. Each base sits about 5 stitches from the center line. Angle the antlers slightly outward, with the forked tips leaning away from each other.

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Body and Neck

The body is cream at the center because the cardigan is open in front. The torso is slim and straight, with a small neck that supports the oversized head. Use cream yarn and stuff firmly as you work.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: (sc 1, inc) around. (18)
4. R4: (sc 2, inc) around. (24)
5. R5: (sc 3, inc) around. (30)
6. R6: (sc 4, inc) around. (36)
7. R7-R12: sc around. (36)
8. R13: (sc 4, dec) around. (30)
9. R14-R18: sc around. (30)
10. R19: (sc 3, dec) around. (24)
11. R20-R23: sc around. (24)
12. R24: (sc 2, dec) around. (18)
13. R25-R27: sc around. (18)
14. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing to the head.

Blue Shorts Base

The shorts are worked as a separate blue layer around the lower body. This gives the seated doll the same high-waisted blue shorts visible beneath the cardigan. The cuffs are added after both legs are attached.

1. Use denim blue yarn. Ch 36, join with sl st to form a ring.
2. R1: ch 1, sc around. Join with sl st. (36)
3. R2-R6: ch 1, sc around. Join each round. (36)
4. R7: sc 18, ch 3, skip 18, sl st to first sc to form first leg opening.
5. FO.

Slide the shorts ring over the lower body so R1 sits at body R8 and R6 sits at body R13. Sew the top edge lightly to the body. The two leg openings should sit centered under the torso.

Legs

Make two long fawn tan legs. They are narrow and straight from thigh to ankle, then covered by shoes. The doll in the image sits with both legs hanging forward, so do not make the legs too short.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: (sc 1, inc) around. (18)
4. R4: (sc 2, inc) around. (24)
5. R5-R8: sc around. (24)
6. R9: (sc 2, dec) around. (18)
7. R10-R25: sc around. (18 for 16 rounds)
8. R26: switch to cream for sock. BLO sc around. (18)
9. R27-R29: sc around in cream. (18)
10. FO on the first leg. Repeat for the second leg, leaving a long tail.

Stuff each leg evenly. Sew the upper leg openings to the two blue short openings. Position both legs at the front lower body, side by side, with about 2 stitches between them at the inner thigh.

Rolled Shorts Cuffs

The image shows thick rolled blue cuffs above the knees. Make one cuff around each leg opening using denim blue yarn. Work into the front loops or surface stitches around the short hem.

1. Attach denim blue yarn at the front center of one leg opening.
2. R1: sc 24 evenly around the leg opening. Join with sl st. (24)
3. R2: BLO hdc around. Join. (24)
4. R3: sc around. Join. (24)
5. Fold R2-R3 upward to form a soft roll and tack it in place with 6 small stitches.
6. Repeat for the second cuff.

Mary Jane Shoes

The shoes are fawn tan with cream top panels, a strap across each foot, and small peach flowers near the outer toe. They should look rounded and soft, matching the handmade shoes in the image.

Shoe Sole and Foot Cover, Make Two

1. Use fawn tan yarn. Ch 8.
2. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, work opposite side, sc 5, inc in last st. (16)
3. R2: inc, sc 5, inc 3 times, sc 5, inc 2 times. (22)
4. R3: sc 1, inc, sc 6, (sc 1, inc) 3 times, sc 6, (sc 1, inc) 2 times. (28)
5. R4: BLO sc around. (28)
6. R5-R6: sc around. (28)
7. R7: sc 8, dec 6 times, sc 8. (22)
8. R8: sc 7, dec 4 times, sc 7. (18)
9. FO, leaving a tail for sewing to the sock.

Cream Shoe Top Panel, Make Two

1. Use cream yarn. Ch 6.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4. (5)
3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 3, inc. (7)
4. Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc across. (7)
5. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Sew the cream panel to the top front of each shoe. Sew each shoe around the sock foot so the toe points forward. The sole should sit flat when the doll is seated.

Shoe Straps and Flowers

• For each strap, use fawn tan yarn and ch 11. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (10)
• Sew one strap across the cream shoe panel, slightly above the toe opening.
• For each peach flower, make MR, ch 2, sl st into ring 5 times, pull closed, and sew to the outer side of each shoe.
• Add one tiny white stitch to the center of each shoe flower.

Arms

The arms are worked in dark brown hands, fawn tan wrists, and green cardigan sleeves. They hang downward with rounded hands peeking from the sleeve cuffs, matching the relaxed garden pose.

1. Start with dark brown yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3-R5: sc around. (12)
4. Switch to fawn tan. R6-R7: sc around. (12)
5. Switch to forest green. R8: BLO sc around. (12)
6. R9-R22: sc around. (12 for 14 rounds)
7. Stuff the hand and lower half of the arm lightly. Leave the upper sleeve soft.
8. Flatten the top and sc through both layers across 6 stitches.
9. FO, leaving a long sewing tail.

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Sew arms to the upper body at R22-R23, angled slightly downward. The hands should rest beside the shorts, with the left arm partly hidden by the satchel strap.

Green Cardigan Body

The cardigan is forest green, open at the front, with long sleeves already represented by the green arm sections. This vest-like body layer wraps around the cream torso and has a neat front edge with tiny buttons on one side.

1. Use forest green yarn. Ch 39.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (38)
3. Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc 5, inc, sc 26, inc, sc 5. (40)
4. Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc across. (40)
5. Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc 6, inc, sc 26, inc, sc 6. (42)
6. Row 5-R12: ch 1, turn, sc across. (42)
7. Row 13: ch 1, turn, sc 8, ch 8, skip 7, sc 12, ch 8, skip 7, sc 8. (44 including chains)
8. Row 14: ch 1, turn, sc 8, sc 8 across chain, sc 12, sc 8 across chain, sc 8. (44)
9. Row 15-R20: ch 1, turn, sc across. (44)
10. FO and weave in the end.

Wrap the cardigan around the body with the opening centered at the front. The bottom edge sits just above the shorts waistband. Sew the shoulder and side edges lightly to the body, leaving the front open.

Cardigan Front Edging

1. Attach green yarn at the lower right front edge.
2. Sc evenly up the right front, around the neckline, and down the left front.
3. Place 1 extra sc in each front corner to keep the cardigan flat.
4. FO and weave in the end.

Cardigan Buttons

• Sew three tiny wooden buttons along the viewer’s right front edge.
• Place the first button near the collar, the second at chest center, and the third near the waist.
• The cardigan stays open; do not add buttonholes.

Leaf Embroidery on Cardigan

The cardigan has pale green botanical embroidery on both front panels. Use soft sage yarn or embroidery thread. Keep the leaves narrow and symmetrical so they look like stitched garden sprigs.

• On each front panel, embroider one vertical stem from cardigan row 8 to row 17.
• Use straight stitches for the stem, about 1 stitch wide.
• Add 6 angled leaves on each side of the stem.
• Each leaf is 1 round tall and 2 stitches long.
• Repeat on the opposite panel, mirroring the direction.

Straw Garden Hat

The hat sits beside the doll in the image, but you can also make it removable. It has a flat round crown, a wide brim, and a green decorative band with small cream and tan stitches.

Hat Crown

1. Use straw beige yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. R3: (sc 1, inc) around. (18)
4. R4: (sc 2, inc) around. (24)
5. R5: (sc 3, inc) around. (30)
6. R6: (sc 4, inc) around. (36)
7. R7: BLO sc around. (36)
8. R8-R12: sc around. (36)

Hat Brim

1. R13: FLO (sc 2, inc) around. (48)
2. R14: (sc 3, inc) around. (60)
3. R15: sc around. (60)
4. R16: (sc 4, inc) around. (72)
5. R17: sc around. (72)
6. R18: sl st around loosely. (72)
7. FO and weave in the end.

Green Hat Band

1. Use forest green yarn. Ch 39.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (38)
3. Wrap around the hat crown at R10-R11 and sew the ends together.
4. Embroider small cream V stitches across the band, spacing each V by 3 stitches.

Mushroom Satchel

The satchel is a small brown crossbody bag with a flap, button, pink and cream flowers, and two red mushrooms on the lower front. It hangs across the body from the shoulder to the opposite hip.

Satchel Body

1. Use medium brown yarn. Ch 13.
2. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 10, 3 sc in last ch, work opposite side, sc 10, inc in last st. (26)
3. R2: inc, sc 10, inc 3 times, sc 10, inc 2 times. (32)
4. R3: BLO sc around. (32)
5. R4-R10: sc around. (32)
6. R11: sc 16 only, then stop. This creates the front height.
7. FO and weave in end.

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Satchel Flap

1. Attach medium brown yarn to the back top edge of the bag.
2. Row 1: sc 16 across the back edge. (16)
3. Row 2-R6: ch 1, turn, sc across. (16)
4. Row 7: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 12, dec. (14)
5. Row 8: ch 1, turn, dec, sc 10, dec. (12)
6. FO and weave in end.

Fold the flap over the front of the satchel. Sew one tiny button near the lower right side of the flap, just like the small button detail visible on the bag.

Satchel Strap

1. Use dark brown yarn and 2.25 mm hook. Ch 76.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (75)
3. FO, leaving tails for sewing.

Sew one strap end to the upper left back of the satchel and the other end to the upper right back. Place the strap over the doll from one shoulder across the chest, then tack it lightly at the shoulder and hip.

Red Mushrooms for Satchel, Make Two

1. Cap: Use red yarn. R1: 5 sc in MR. (5)
2. R2: inc around. (10)
3. R3: (sc 1, inc) around. (15)
4. R4: sc around. (15)
5. FO, leaving a tail.
6. Stem: Use cream yarn. Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 3 ch. (4)
7. Sew the stem under the cap.

• Sew both mushrooms to the lower front of the satchel.
• Add 3 tiny white stitches on each red cap.
• Place one mushroom slightly higher than the other for a natural look.

Satchel Flowers

• Make one pale pink flower and two cream flowers.
• For each flower: MR, ch 2, sl st into ring 5 times, pull closed, FO.
• Sew the flowers near the upper right corner of the flap.
• Add a yellow center stitch to each flower.

Garden Notes Notebook

The garden notes are shown beside the doll as a small cream notebook with a dark spiral top and a yellow pencil resting on it. This tiny prop adds storytelling detail and can be displayed next to the finished fawn.

Notebook Pages

1. Use cream yarn. Ch 13.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (12)
3. Row 2-R10: ch 1, turn, sc across. (12)
4. FO and weave in end.

Notebook Cover Edge

1. Attach tan yarn at one corner.
2. Sc evenly around all four sides, placing 2 sc in each corner.
3. Join with sl st and FO.

Spiral Binding and Page Lines

• Use black or dark gray thread to make 6 small vertical stitches along the top edge.
• Use tan yarn to embroider 3 short horizontal note lines across the notebook.
• Add one tiny green leaf sketch with two angled stitches.

Tiny Pencil

1. Use yellow yarn and 2.25 mm hook. Ch 9.
2. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (8)
3. FO.
4. Wrap one end with pale pink yarn for the eraser.
5. Add one brown stitch at the opposite end for the wooden point.
6. Add one tiny gray stitch between yellow and pink for the metal band.

Magnifying Glass

The magnifying glass is a small garden explorer accessory placed beside the notes. It has a gray rim, white center, and brown handle.

1. Lens center: Use white yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: inc around. (12)
3. Switch to gray. R3: sc around. (12)
4. FO and weave in end.
5. Handle: Use brown yarn. Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (7)
6. Sew the handle to the lower side of the lens.

Facial Embroidery

The face is the most important part of this fawn design. Work slowly and use pins to check placement before sewing. The finished expression should look gentle, bright-eyed, and slightly rosy.

• Embroider the nose with dark brown thread on the upper center of the muzzle, over R2-R3 of the muzzle.
• Make the nose a small rounded triangle, about 4 stitches wide.
• Add one straight vertical line from the bottom of the nose to the lower muzzle.
• Add a small curved smile on each side using black or dark brown thread.
• Outline each cream eye patch with one thin brown embroidered line if desired.
• Add two black eyelashes to the outer side of each eye.
• Add pale pink blush with 3 short horizontal stitches under each eye.

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Joining the Head to the Body

Place the head on the neck so the muzzle points forward and slightly downward. The large head should sit centered over the narrow body, with the cardigan opening aligned under the chin.

1. Pin the head to the neck before sewing.
2. Use the long body tail to sew through body R25-R27 and head R30-R32.
3. Make two full passes around the neck opening for strength.
4. Add extra stuffing into the neck before closing the final gap.
5. Check that the doll can sit without the head tipping too far forward.

Optional Tail

The tail is mostly hidden by the cardigan and seated position, but a small cream-tipped fawn tail can be added to the back for accuracy when the doll is viewed from behind.

1. Use fawn tan yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. R2: (sc 1, inc) around. (9)
3. R3-R4: sc around. (9)
4. Switch to cream. R5: sc around. (9)
5. FO, stuff lightly, and sew to the back of the body at R10-R12.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Sew the cream eye patches first, then the muzzle, then secure the eyes if using safety eyes.
2. Sew the ears between R11 and R18 of the head, angled outward.
3. Sew the antlers between R6 and R11, keeping them upright and evenly spaced.
4. Sew the head firmly to the neck with the face centered over the cardigan opening.
5. Attach arms at the upper body so the hands rest near the shorts.
6. Position the satchel across the chest and tack the strap at the shoulder and side.
7. Place the hat, notebook, pencil, and magnifying glass beside the doll for the complete garden scene.

For the final face, deepen the eye shine by adding one tiny white stitch near each black eye if you are using sewn eyes. Add more blush only after all facial embroidery is finished, so the cheeks stay soft and balanced.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is large, round, and firmly stuffed.
• The cream eye patches are symmetrical and frame the black eyes.
• The muzzle is centered and softly raised.
• Seven white forehead spots sit between the antlers.
• The ears angle outward and the antlers stand upright.
• The cardigan is open, forest green, and decorated with leaf embroidery.
• The blue shorts have thick rolled cuffs.
• The satchel has flowers, mushrooms, a flap, and a crossbody strap.
• The garden hat, notes, pencil, and magnifying glass are completed as separate props.

Care Notes

Spot clean the finished fawn with a damp cloth and mild soap. Avoid soaking the doll if you used wooden buttons, blush powder, or safety eyes. Let the piece air dry fully before storing or displaying.

Keep the antlers, ears, and satchel strap supported when carrying the doll. These small details are decorative and should not be pulled. For children under three, replace safety eyes and buttons with embroidered details.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

• Dust the doll gently with a soft brush before cleaning.
• Use cool water only on stained areas, not the entire doll.
• Press with a towel to remove moisture; do not twist or wring.
• Reshape the ears, antlers, hat brim, and satchel while damp.
• Dry flat in a shaded, ventilated area.
• Store away from direct sunlight to protect the green cardigan and blue shorts from fading.
• Place the small garden notes, pencil, and magnifying glass in a pouch when not displayed.

Finished Woodland Fawn Girl

Your finished crochet fawn should have the same cozy garden look as the image: a sweet deer girl with wide glossy eyes, soft cream facial markings, tiny white fawn spots, plush brown antlers, rounded ears, a forest green embroidered cardigan, blue shorts, Mary Jane shoes, a mushroom satchel, and charming garden-study accessories.