This cottage white bear girl is designed as a soft amigurumi doll with a large rounded head, cream bear ears, glossy safety eyes, long embroidered lashes, pink cheeks, and a sweet heart-shaped nose. She wears a pink gingham crochet dress with cream edging, tiny buttons, scalloped lace trim, floral details, Mary Jane shoes, a strawberry shoulder bag, a bow, a flower crown, a removable sun hat, and small garden tea accessories.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Pattern Overview
This pattern is written in US crochet terms. The finished bear is made mostly in continuous rounds, with separate accessories sewn on afterward. The dress is worked as a fitted bodice and full gingham skirt so it keeps the same cottage shape shown in the image.
For the closest result, keep your stitches tight and even. The bear should look firm, rounded, and smooth, not floppy. Stuff the head and body very firmly, but keep arms, legs, and accessories slightly softer so they sit naturally.
- Finished size: about 12 inches tall using sport or light DK yarn and a 2.25 mm hook.
- Skill level: advanced beginner to intermediate.
- Main construction: amigurumi bear, dress, shoes, bag, hat, flowers, bow, cup, saucer, and cherries.
- Main colors: warm white, cream, blush pink, dusty rose, beige, tan, red, soft green, and small white accents.
Materials
- Sport weight or light DK cotton yarn in warm white for bear body.
- Cream yarn for muzzle, trims, socks, lace edging, bow base, and hat.
- Blush pink yarn for nose, cheeks, dress checks, flowers, and shoe details.
- Dusty rose yarn for darker gingham stripes and strawberry bag.
- Beige or light tan yarn for shoes, cup, saucer, buttons, and hat band.
- Soft green yarn for leaves, strawberry top, floral crown, and cherry stems.
- Red yarn for cherries and strawberry body.
- Small amount of white yarn for strawberry seeds and tiny flowers.
- 2.25 mm crochet hook for the doll.
- 2.0 mm crochet hook for flowers, lace, and small details.
- 10 mm black safety eyes.
- Black embroidery thread for eyelashes.
- Pink embroidery thread for mouth line and cheek shading.
- Four 6 mm decorative buttons for the dress front.
- Two 5 mm decorative buttons for shoe flowers if desired.
- Fiberfill stuffing.
- Yarn needle, stitch markers, pins, scissors, and sewing thread.
Abbreviations
- MR: magic ring
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- tr: treble crochet
- inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
- dec: invisible single crochet decrease
- BLO: back loop only
- FLO: front loop only
- RS: right side
- FO: fasten off
- st: stitch
- sts: stitches
Gauge and Tension
For amigurumi, exact gauge is less important than firmness. Your fabric should not show stuffing through the stitches. With a 2.25 mm hook, 8 sc and 9 rounds should measure about 1 inch.
If your stitches are loose, go down to a 2.0 mm hook. If the head becomes too stiff to shape, go up to a 2.5 mm hook. The doll in the photo has compact stitches, a rounded head, and neat rows without visible gaps.
Head
Use warm white yarn. Work in continuous rounds. The head is a large rounded square-oval shape, wider at the cheeks and softly flat at the lower face. Stuff firmly as you go, especially around the cheeks.
- R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- R2: inc around. (12)
- R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
- R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
- R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
- R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
- R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. (42)
- R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. (48)
- R9: sc 7, inc, repeat around. (54)
- R10: sc 8, inc, repeat around. (60)
- R11: sc 9, inc, repeat around. (66)
- R12-R22: sc around. (66 each round)
- R23: sc 20, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 14, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 18. (70)
- R24-R27: sc around. (70 each round)
- R28: sc 10, dec, repeat 5 times, sc 10. (65)
- R29: sc 8, dec, repeat 6 times, sc 5. (59)
- R30: sc 7, dec, repeat 6 times, sc 5. (53)
- R31: sc 6, dec, repeat 6 times, sc 5. (47)
- R32: sc 5, dec, repeat 6 times, sc 5. (41)
- R33: sc 4, dec, repeat 6 times, sc 5. (35)
- R34: sc 3, dec, repeat 7 times. (28)
- R35: sc 2, dec, repeat 7 times. (21)
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Insert the safety eyes between R21 and R22, about 12 stitches apart. The eyes should sit slightly above the muzzle area and close enough to look cute. Stuff the head firmly before closing later during assembly.
Muzzle
Use cream yarn. The muzzle is an oval patch placed low on the face. It creates the soft bear snout with vertical texture lines like the photo.
- Ch 7.
- R1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, continue on other side of chain, sc 4, inc. (14)
- R2: inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc 2 times. (20)
- R3: sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 5, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. (26)
- R4: sc around. (26)
- FO, leaving a long sewing tail.
Pin the muzzle between R23 and R29 of the head. Center it under the eyes. Lightly stuff only the middle before sewing, so the edges stay flat and the center puffs gently.
Nose and Mouth
- With blush pink yarn, embroider a rounded triangle nose across the upper center of the muzzle, about 5 stitches wide and 3 rounds tall.
- Fill the triangle with satin stitches until it looks smooth and plump.
- Bring the same thread straight down from the nose center for 5 vertical stitches.
- Add a short soft curve at the bottom if desired, but keep it subtle like the image.
- With cream yarn, make 4 vertical texture lines on each side of the muzzle by sewing from top to bottom between stitches.
Cheeks and Eyelashes
The face in the image has soft pink cheeks and long black lashes. These details make the bear look gentle and doll-like.
- Use pink embroidery thread or a small amount of blush powder for cheeks.
- Place blush beside the muzzle, below each eye, around R24-R27.
- For each eye, embroider 5 lashes with black thread.
- The longest lash should angle outward and upward.
- Keep the lashes thin so they look delicate, not heavy.
Ears
Make 2 ears with warm white yarn. They are small rounded bear ears attached near the upper sides of the head. The left ear is partly covered by a bow, and the right ear sits near the flower crown.
- R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- R2: inc around. (12)
- R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
- R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
- R5-R7: sc around. (24 each round)
- R8: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)
- R9: sc around. (18)
- Flatten the ear, do not stuff heavily.
- Sc through both layers for 9 sts to close.
- FO, leaving a long tail.
Sew the ears between R9 and R16 of the head. Angle each ear slightly outward. The bottom of each ear should curve naturally into the head rather than standing straight up.
Body
The body is mostly hidden under the dress, but it needs a firm pear shape to support the skirt. Use warm white yarn. Work from the neck downward.
- R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- R2: inc around. (12)
- R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
- R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
- R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
- R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
- R7-R11: sc around. (36 each round)
- R12: sc 5, inc, repeat around. (42)
- R13-R17: sc around. (42 each round)
- R18: sc 5, dec, repeat around. (36)
- R19-R20: sc around. (36 each round)
- R21: sc 4, dec, repeat around. (30)
- R22: sc 3, dec, repeat around. (24)
- R23: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)
- FO, leaving a long tail for sewing the head.
Stuff the body firmly at the lower belly and moderately at the neck. A firm body helps the dress flare smoothly and prevents the head from wobbling.
Legs
Make 2 legs in warm white. The legs are short, straight, and visible below the dress. They end inside the Mary Jane shoes.
- R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- R2: inc around. (12)
- R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
- R4: BLO sc around. (18)
- R5-R18: sc around. (18 each round)
- Stuff lightly but firmly.
- Flatten the top and sc through both layers for 9 sts.
- FO, leaving a long tail.
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Sew the legs to the lower body between R4 and R8 from the bottom body area. Leave about 4 stitches between the legs. The feet should point forward and slightly outward.
Arms
Make 2 arms in warm white. The arms are rounded and simple, with no fingers. They hang slightly downward from the shoulders, just like in the image.
- R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- R2: inc around. (12)
- R3: sc 3, inc, repeat 3 times. (15)
- R4-R8: sc around. (15 each round)
- R9: sc 3, dec, repeat 3 times. (12)
- R10-R20: sc around. (12 each round)
- Stuff the hand firmly and the upper arm lightly.
- Flatten the top and sc through both layers for 6 sts.
- FO, leaving a long tail.
Sew the arms to each side of the body around R19-R21 of the head-body join area, just under the dress bodice line. Angle the arms downward at about 35 degrees.
Mary Jane Shoes
Make 2 shoes using beige yarn. These shoes are rounded at the toes, flat at the soles, and decorated with cream socks, pink bands, and small flowers.
Shoe Sole
- Ch 9.
- R1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch, continue on other side, sc 6, inc. (18)
- R2: inc, sc 6, inc 3 times, sc 6, inc 2 times. (24)
- R3: sc 1, inc, sc 7, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 7, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc. (30)
- R4: BLO sc around. (30)
Shoe Upper
- R5-R6: sc around. (30 each round)
- R7: sc 8, dec 6 times, sc 10. (24)
- R8: sc 7, dec 4 times, sc 9. (20)
- R9: sc around. (20)
- Change to cream yarn for sock edge.
- R10: BLO sc around. (20)
- R11: sc around. (20)
- FO and weave in end.
Shoe Strap
- Join beige yarn to the outer side of the shoe at R9.
- Ch 9, skip across the top opening, sl st to the opposite side.
- Turn, sc 9 across the chain.
- FO and sew the strap securely.
Pink Shoe Trim
- With blush pink yarn, surface sl st around the sole between R3 and R4.
- Make one second pink line around the lower front toe if desired.
- Keep the lines thin and even.
Shoe Flowers
Make 4 small flowers, 2 for each shoe. Use blush pink, cream, and beige. These imitate the tiny floral decorations across the front of the shoes.
- R1: 5 sc in MR, sl st to first sc.
- Petal round: ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st, repeat in each of 5 sts.
- FO, leaving a sewing tail.
Sew 2 flowers across the front of each shoe. Add a tiny white or pink French knot at each flower center. Place the flowers slightly off center for a handmade cottage look.
Dress Bodice
The dress is worked separately and placed over the body before final head sewing if you want a snug fit. Use cream as the base and add pink gingham stripes by changing color and surface stitching.
The bodice has a cream front trim, button line, sleeveless arm openings, and a slightly crossed front look. Work in rows, turning at the end of each row.
- With cream yarn, ch 43.
- Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (42)
- Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc 6, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 14, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 6. (46)
- Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc across. (46)
- Change to blush pink.
- Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc across. (46)
- Change to cream.
- Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc 7, ch 6, skip 8 for armhole, sc 16, ch 6, skip 8 for armhole, sc 7. (42 including chains)
- Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across, working 6 sc into each armhole chain. (42)
- Change to dusty rose.
- Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc across. (42)
- Change to cream.
- Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (42)
- FO, leaving a long tail for sewing the back seam later.
Wrap the bodice around the upper body. The front opening should be centered. The left front panel should overlap the right front panel by about 3 stitches to create the soft cardigan-style dress front.
Gingham Skirt
The skirt is full, flared, and checkered. The base is cream, with horizontal pink rows and vertical surface stripes added afterward. Work the skirt from the bottom edge of the bodice.
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- Join cream yarn to the lower edge of the bodice with RS facing.
- R1: ch 1, work 2 sc in each row-end or stitch around the lower bodice edge. Aim for 84 sc total. Join with sl st. (84)
- R2: ch 2, hdc around. Join. (84)
- Change to blush pink.
- R3: ch 2, hdc around. Join. (84)
- Change to cream.
- R4: ch 2, hdc 6, inc hdc, repeat around. (96)
- R5: ch 2, hdc around. Join. (96)
- Change to dusty rose.
- R6: ch 2, hdc around. Join. (96)
- Change to cream.
- R7: ch 2, hdc 7, inc hdc, repeat around. (108)
- R8: ch 2, hdc around. Join. (108)
- Change to blush pink.
- R9: ch 2, hdc around. Join. (108)
- Change to cream.
- R10: ch 2, hdc 8, inc hdc, repeat around. (120)
- R11: ch 2, hdc around. Join. (120)
- Change to dusty rose.
- R12: ch 2, hdc around. Join. (120)
- Change to cream.
- R13: ch 1, sc around. Join. (120)
Vertical Gingham Lines
To match the pink gingham look, add vertical surface crochet lines after the skirt is finished. Use blush pink and dusty rose. Place the lines evenly so the checks look soft and cottage-style.
- With blush pink, surface sl st from the waist to the hem every 8 stitches around the skirt.
- With dusty rose, surface sl st halfway between each blush pink stripe.
- Keep the yarn loose enough so the skirt does not pucker.
- Work over the bodice too, adding short vertical stripes across the front and side areas.
- Do not make the stripes too perfect; a handmade gingham effect looks closer to the photo.
Scalloped Cream Hem
The lower edge of the dress has a cream scalloped lace trim. Use cream yarn and a 2.0 mm hook for a delicate edge.
- Join cream yarn to any stitch of R13.
- R1: ch 1, sc around. Join. (120)
- R2: skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st, repeat around.
- FO and weave in end carefully.
The scallops should sit just below the pink gingham skirt, creating the soft lace edge seen in the photo. Block the hem lightly with your fingers so each scallop opens neatly.
Front Dress Trim and Buttons
The front trim is cream and runs down the center with small beige buttons. It gives the dress its sweet handmade cardigan look.
- Join cream yarn at the neckline on the right front edge.
- Sc evenly down the front edge, around the lower point, and back up the opposite front edge.
- Repeat one more row of sc if you want a thicker trim.
- Sew 4 small beige buttons down the center front, spaced about 5 rounds apart.
- Place the first button just below the collar and the last button above the skirt hem.
Collar Edging
Use cream yarn. This collar is small and neat, not oversized. It frames the neck and blends into the dress trim.
- Join cream yarn at the back neckline.
- R1: ch 1, sc evenly around the neckline, including both front edges. Join.
- R2: ch 1, sc 1, ch 2, sc 1 in next st, repeat around for a tiny picot-like texture.
- FO and weave in end.
Small Floral Appliques for Dress
The dress has tiny pink and white flowers on the chest, skirt, and near the hem. Make several flowers in different sizes to match the decorated look.
Tiny Five-Petal Flower
- R1: 5 sc in MR, sl st to join.
- Petals: ch 2, sc in same st, sl st in next st, repeat 5 times.
- FO, leaving a tail.
Medium Cottage Flower
- R1: 6 sc in MR, sl st to join.
- Petals: ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, ch 2, sl st in same st, repeat 6 times.
- FO, leaving a tail.
Leaves
- With green yarn, ch 6.
- Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st.
- FO, leaving a tail.
- Make 5 tiny flowers in blush pink.
- Make 4 tiny flowers in cream.
- Make 2 medium flowers in pink.
- Make 8 small green leaves.
- Sew a cluster on the left chest, one on the right waist near the strawberry bag, and a few near the lower skirt edge.
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Strawberry Shoulder Bag
The strawberry bag hangs on the bear’s right side. It is red, rounded at the top, pointed at the bottom, with white seed stitches and a leafy flower top.
Strawberry Body
- Use red yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- R2: sc around. (6)
- R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (9)
- R4: sc around. (9)
- R5: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (12)
- R6: sc around. (12)
- R7: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (15)
- R8: sc around. (15)
- R9: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (18)
- R10: sc around. (18)
- R11: sc 5, inc, repeat around. (21)
- R12: sc around. (21)
- R13: sc 6, inc, repeat around. (24)
- R14-R16: sc around. (24 each round)
- Stuff lightly.
- R17: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)
- R18: sc 1, dec, repeat around. (12)
- FO, close the top, and leave a tail.
Strawberry Leaves
- With green yarn, R1: 6 sc in MR, sl st to join.
- Ch 5, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st, sc, hdc, sc, sl st into next stitch of ring.
- Repeat until you have 6 leaves.
- FO and sew to the top of the strawberry.
Seeds and Flowers
- Use white embroidery thread to add 14 small seed stitches across the strawberry.
- Make 3 tiny white flowers using the tiny flower pattern.
- Sew the white flowers to the strawberry top, slightly overlapping the green leaves.
Bag Strap
- With blush pink yarn, ch 62.
- Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (61)
- FO, leaving tails at both ends.
- Sew one end to each side of the strawberry top.
Place the strap diagonally across the bear from left shoulder to right hip. Sew the strawberry to the dress at the right side so it does not swing too far forward.
Head Bow
The bow sits on the upper left side of the head near the ear. Use cream yarn with small pink embroidered dots and a beige center wrap.
Bow Rectangle
- With cream yarn, ch 18.
- Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (17)
- Rows 2-8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (17)
- FO, leaving a long tail.
Bow Center
- With beige yarn, ch 6.
- Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (5)
- Rows 2-4: ch 1, turn, sc across. (5)
- FO, leaving a tail.
- Pinch the rectangle in the center.
- Wrap the beige center around the pinched middle and sew at the back.
- Embroider 6 tiny pink dots on the bow loops.
- Sew the bow over the left ear, angled slightly forward.
Flower Crown
The flower crown rests along the upper right side of the head and partly over the ear. It uses soft green leaves, white flowers, and blush pink buds.
Crown Vine
- With green yarn, ch 34.
- Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st across. (33)
- FO, leaving sewing tails.
Small Buds
- With blush pink yarn, 5 sc in MR.
- Sl st to first sc and FO.
- Pull the tail tight to make a tiny rounded bud.
- Make 4 blush pink buds.
- Make 5 cream tiny flowers.
- Make 7 green leaves.
- Sew flowers and buds along the vine, alternating colors.
- Attach the vine from the top center of the head toward the right ear.
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Removable Sun Hat
The sun hat is a separate accessory placed beside the bear in the image. It has a flat round brim, a shallow crown, a pink floral band, and a small bow cluster.
Hat Crown
- Use cream yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- R2: inc around. (12)
- R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
- R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
- R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
- R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (36)
- R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. (42)
- R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. (48)
- R9: BLO sc around. (48)
- R10-R17: sc around. (48 each round)
Hat Brim
- R18: FLO sc 3, inc, repeat around. (60)
- R19: sc 4, inc, repeat around. (72)
- R20: sc 5, inc, repeat around. (84)
- R21: sc 6, inc, repeat around. (96)
- R22-R24: sc around. (96 each round)
- R25: reverse sc around for a firm brim edge.
- FO and weave in end.
Hat Band and Floral Trim
- With blush pink yarn, ch 55 and sc across. Sew around the base of the crown.
- Make 5 tiny pink flowers and 4 green leaves.
- Sew flowers along the band, mostly on one side.
- Make a small beige bow using ch 12, 2 rows of sc, then wrap the center with yarn.
- Sew the bow and two cream flowers to the right side of the hat brim.
To help the brim stay flat, lightly steam it from a safe distance or pin it flat overnight. Do not press directly with a hot iron.
Tea Cup
The cup is a small beige garden tea accessory shown near the bear’s left hand. It has a round open top, a tiny handle, and a cream lace-like saucer.
Cup
- Use beige yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- R2: inc around. (12)
- R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
- R4: BLO sc around. (18)
- R5: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
- R6-R9: sc around. (24 each round)
- R10: sc 2, dec, repeat around. (18)
- R11: sc around. (18)
- FO and weave in end.
Cup Handle
- With beige yarn, ch 10.
- Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 9.
- FO, leaving tails.
- Curve into a small handle and sew to the cup side between R6 and R10.
Saucer
- Use beige yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- R2: inc around. (12)
- R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. (18)
- R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. (24)
- R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. (30)
- R6: with cream yarn, skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st, repeat around.
- FO and sew cup to saucer if desired.
Cherry Prop
The small red cherries beside the hat add a garden picnic feeling. Make 2 red cherries and connect them with green stems and leaves.
Cherries
- Use red yarn. R1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- R2: inc around. (12)
- R3-R5: sc around. (12 each round)
- R6: dec around. (6)
- Stuff lightly and close.
- Make 2 cherries.
Stems and Leaves
- With green yarn, ch 18 for the first stem and ch 16 for the second stem.
- Sl st back along each chain.
- Sew one stem to each cherry.
- Join stem tops together with a few stitches.
- Make 2 leaves using the leaf pattern and sew them at the top junction.
Hair Tuft or White Head Highlight
The image shows a soft white highlight or tuft sweeping across the top of the head under the flowers. Use a slightly fluffier white yarn if available, or use the same warm white yarn brushed gently.
- Cut 10 strands of warm white yarn, each about 5 inches long.
- Attach them with lark’s head knots between R7 and R11 on the top front of the head.
- Comb the strands to the right side.
- Trim to about 1.5 inches long.
- Sew the flower crown over the base to hide knots.
Assembly Order
- Sew the muzzle to the head first, then embroider the nose and mouth.
- Install and secure the eyes, then embroider eyelashes and cheeks.
- Sew the ears to the upper sides of the head.
- Attach the bow to the left ear area and the flower crown to the right top area.
- Sew the legs to the body, making sure the feet point forward.
- Slide the dress over the body and sew the back seam closed.
- Sew the arms to the sides of the body over the bodice edges.
- Sew the head to the body with firm stitches around the neck opening.
- Add the strawberry bag strap diagonally across the chest.
- Sew flowers, leaves, buttons, and all dress details after the doll is fully assembled.
- Place the hat, cup, saucer, and cherries beside the bear as removable accessories.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
After the main sewing is complete, check the head angle from the front and side. The face should look slightly upward and sweet, not tilted too far down. Add extra stitches at the back of the neck if the head feels loose.
Shape the cheeks by gently pressing stuffing outward from inside before closing. Add a few small pink stitches under each eye if you want the blush to look more permanent. Keep the mouth line centered below the nose.
Sew the dress trim neatly so the button line stays straight. The strawberry bag should sit on the bear’s right side, touching the skirt. The hat should be large enough to rest beside the doll or sit lightly on the head.
Care Notes
- Spot clean with cool water and mild soap.
- Do not soak the doll if using safety eyes, buttons, or blush powder.
- Let the doll air dry completely before storing.
- Keep the brim of the sun hat flat while drying.
- Do not machine wash if the doll includes glued or powdered details.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Large rounded cream bear head with soft cheek shaping.
- Glossy black eyes with long black embroidered lashes.
- Cream oval muzzle with pink triangle nose and center mouth line.
- Pink gingham dress with cream front trim, buttons, and scalloped hem.
- Warm white arms and legs with beige Mary Jane shoes.
- Left-side bow with pink dots.
- Right-side flower crown with leaves and small flowers.
- Red strawberry shoulder bag with white seeds and flower top.
- Separate cream sun hat with floral band and bow detail.
- Small tea cup, saucer, and red cherry prop.
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Store the bear in a dry place away from strong sunlight. Cotton yarn can fade if left near a bright window for long periods. Keep the doll upright or lying flat so the flower crown, bow, and hat brim keep their shape.
For dust, use a soft dry brush and gently clean around the eyes, muzzle, flowers, and buttons. If the dress hem curls, reshape the scallops with your fingers and let the doll rest flat overnight.
If gifting this bear to a child, sew every flower, button, and accessory very securely. For younger children, replace safety eyes and buttons with embroidered details to reduce small-part concerns.
