Crochet Tutorial: Garden Goose in Blue Striped Vest with Glasses, Satchel and Watering Can – Free Crochet Pattern.

This garden goose amigurumi features a cream goose body with a long neck, orange beak, round wire-style glasses, a gray crochet cap with a white daisy, a blue and cream striped vest, gray garden trousers, brown flower sandals, a beige crossbody satchel, and a small watering can. The finished set also includes the tiny potted succulent and garden trowel shown beside the goose.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US crochet terms and worked mostly in continuous rounds. The goose is designed as a seated garden character with a rounded lower body, long upright neck, soft wing-shaped arms, wide gray trousers, and small orange webbed feet inside brown sandals.

The image shows a handmade amigurumi with firm but soft shaping. The stitches are compact, the body is gently stuffed, and the clothing sits closely on top of the goose without looking bulky. Use a tight tension so the stuffing does not show through.

• Finished height: about 11 inches seated, including cap.
• Hook size: 2.5 mm for main doll, 2.0 mm for tiny details.
• Yarn weight: sport or fine DK cotton yarn.
• Skill level: confident beginner to intermediate.
• Main construction: legs and body joined together, neck and head worked separately, clothing made as fitted pieces.

Materials

• Cream yarn for head, neck, body, wings, and hands.
• Orange yarn for beak, legs, and toes.
• Light gray yarn for cap and trousers.
• Sky blue yarn for vest stripes.
• Warm cream yarn for vest stripes and trim.
• White yarn for collar and daisy petals.
• Yellow yarn for daisy centers and sandal flowers.
• Tan yarn for satchel, strap, and watering can.
• Brown yarn for sandal soles and soil in flowerpot.
• Terracotta yarn for plant pot.
• Green yarn in two tones for succulent leaves.
• Small black safety eyes, 7 mm, or black embroidery thread.
• Black craft wire for glasses, about 12 inches.
• Four tiny tan or wood-look buttons for the vest front.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Yarn needle, stitch markers, sewing pins, scissors.
• Optional: pipe cleaner or soft floral wire for neck support.

Abbreviations

• MR: magic ring
• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec: invisible single crochet decrease
• BLO: back loop only
• FLO: front loop only
• st: stitch
• sts: stitches
• R: round or row

Gauge and Tension

Gauge is important because the vest, trousers, cap, satchel, and sandals must fit the goose neatly. With a 2.5 mm hook and sport cotton yarn, 8 sc rounds should measure about 1 inch in height, and 8 sc stitches should measure about 1 inch across.

For a smooth amigurumi look, keep your stitches tight but not stiff. The beak, cap brim, glasses, and sandals should keep their shape, so crochet those parts with firm tension. Stuff the neck firmly enough to stand upright, but do not overstuff the head.

Color Placement Notes

• The goose body is soft cream from head to wings.
• The beak is orange and shaped like a rounded cone, wider at the face and slightly pointed at the tip.
• The cap is pale gray with a short curved brim over the forehead.
• The vest alternates sky blue and warm cream stripes, with a white collar and small buttons down the center.
• The trousers are light gray, loose around the seated body, and cuffed at the ankles.
• The sandals are dark brown with peach-orange toes visible and small yellow flowers on the outer front sides.
• The satchel is tan with a long diagonal strap and a tiny goose patch on the flap.
• The watering can is beige with a round body, handle, spout, and small side knob.

Head

Work the head in cream yarn. The head is rounded at the back, slightly narrower where it meets the neck, and broad enough at the front to support the orange beak and round glasses.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8-R15: sc around. 42 sts for 8 rounds.
9. R16: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
10. R17: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
11. R18: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
12. R19: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
13. R20: sc around. 18 sts.

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Insert the eyes between R11 and R12, about 8 stitches apart. The beak will sit centered between the eyes, covering part of R12 to R16. Lightly stuff the head before closing the final rounds. Keep the lower opening slightly open if you prefer sewing it directly onto the neck.

Beak

The beak in the image is orange, broad where it attaches to the face, and tapered forward. It is not flat; it has a soft cone shape with a gentle top curve.

1. R1: With orange yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: sc around. 6 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
4. R4: sc around. 9 sts.
5. R5: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 12 sts.
6. R6: sc around. 12 sts.
7. R7: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 15 sts.
8. R8: sc around. 15 sts.
9. R9: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
10. R10: sc around. 18 sts.
11. R11: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 21 sts.
12. R12: sc around. 21 sts.

Flatten the open edge slightly into an oval. Stuff the beak very lightly, only enough to hold the shape. Sew it to the front of the head between R11 and R16. The top edge should sit just below the eyes, and the tip should point forward with a slight downward angle.

Use a short strand of orange yarn to embroider a tiny line at each side of the beak. This gives the beak the soft sculpted look seen in the photo without making it too heavy.

Long Neck

The neck is tall and slightly narrow, matching the elegant goose shape. It should stand upright under the head and disappear into the vest collar.

1. R1: With cream yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4-R22: sc around. 18 sts for 19 rounds.
5. R23: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 21 sts.
6. R24-R26: sc around. 21 sts for 3 rounds.

Stuff the neck firmly as you go. Insert a folded pipe cleaner if you want extra stability. Make sure both ends are folded inward so no sharp point can push through the crochet fabric.

Sew the top of the neck to the bottom of the head. The front of the neck should meet just under the beak. Sew securely around the full circle twice, because the head and glasses add weight.

Body

The body is pear-shaped and seated. The lower section is wider for the trousers, while the upper body narrows under the striped vest. Work in cream because the vest and trousers will be added over it.

1. R1: 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
9. R9-R16: sc around. 48 sts for 8 rounds.
10. R17: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
11. R18-R21: sc around. 42 sts for 4 rounds.
12. R22: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
13. R23-R25: sc around. 36 sts for 3 rounds.
14. R26: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
15. R27-R28: sc around. 30 sts.
16. R29: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
17. R30: sc around. 24 sts.

Stuff the body firmly at the lower half and slightly softer near the top. The bottom should be rounded enough to sit on a shelf or table edge, like the goose in the image. Leave a long tail for sewing the neck onto the body.

Legs

The legs are short orange ankles that come out from under the gray trouser cuffs. They are mostly visible above the sandals.

Make 2 Orange Lower Legs

1. R1: With orange yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
3. R3-R8: sc around. 9 sts for 6 rounds.

Stuff each leg lightly. Do not overstuff, because the trousers will sit around the top and the sandals need to fit at the bottom. Fasten off with a long tail for sewing.

Webbed Feet

The orange toes are visible inside the sandals. Each foot has a wide front with three soft toe bumps, matching the goose look in the photo.

Make 2 Feet

1. R1: With orange yarn, ch 7. Starting in the second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch. Work on other side of chain, sc 4, inc in last st. 14 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc 2 times. 20 sts.
3. R3: sc around. 20 sts.
4. R4: sc 3, make toe bump by working hdc 3 in next st, sl st in next st, sc 2, hdc 3 in next st, sl st in next st, sc 2, hdc 3 in next st, sc remaining sts around. 24 sts approximately.
5. R5: sc around, working 1 sc into each toe-bump stitch. 24 sts.
6. R6: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.

Flatten the back of each foot. Stuff the front lightly, leaving the back nearly flat. Sew one orange lower leg onto the back center of each foot. The toes should point forward and slightly outward.

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Brown Sandals

The sandals are dark brown with a raised sole and a front strap. They sit under the orange webbed feet, leaving the toe bumps visible at the front.

Make 2 Soles

1. R1: With dark brown yarn, ch 9. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch. Work on other side, sc 6, inc. 18 sts.
2. R2: inc, sc 6, inc 3 times, sc 6, inc 2 times. 24 sts.
3. R3: BLO sc around. 24 sts.
4. R4: sc around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sl st around loosely. 24 sts.

Front Strap for Each Sandal

1. Join dark brown yarn to the left side of the sole at R4.
2. Ch 9, stretch chain over the foot, and sl st to the right side of the sole.
3. Turn, sc 9 back across the chain.
4. Fasten off and sew both ends firmly into the sole.

Place the orange foot into the sandal. Sew the sole to the bottom of the foot using small hidden stitches. The sandal strap should cross over the widest part of the orange foot, leaving the three toe bumps uncovered.

Yellow Flowers on Sandals

1. With yellow yarn and 2.0 mm hook, make 5 sc in MR, sl st to close.
2. Ch 2, sl st in next st, repeat 5 times to form tiny petals.
3. Fasten off, leaving a sewing tail.

Make 2 tiny yellow flowers. Sew one flower onto the outer front side of each sandal strap, just like the small yellow flowers shown in the image.

Gray Garden Trousers

The trousers are light gray and loose, with a rounded seated seat and short legs. They sit high on the body, just below the striped vest.

Trouser Body

1. R1: With light gray yarn, ch 48, join with sl st without twisting. 48 sts.
2. R2-R8: sc around. 48 sts for 7 rounds.
3. R9: sc 10, dec, repeat around. 44 sts.
4. R10-R13: sc around. 44 sts for 4 rounds.
5. R14: sc 9, dec, repeat around. 40 sts.
6. R15-R17: sc around. 40 sts for 3 rounds.

Do not fasten off yet. Place the trouser tube around the lower body to check fit. It should cover the wide seated belly and stop under the vest line.

Separate Trouser Legs

1. Flatten the trouser opening and mark the center front and center back.
2. For first leg, sc 18 around one side, then ch 2 across the crotch gap and join to work in a round. 20 sts.
3. R1-R7 of leg: sc around. 20 sts.
4. R8: BLO sc around to create cuff ridge. 20 sts.
5. R9: sc around. 20 sts.
6. Fasten off.
7. Repeat for second leg using the remaining 18 sts and the same ch 2 across the crotch gap. Work R1-R9 the same way.

Slide the trousers onto the body before sewing the legs permanently. The gray cuffs should rest just above the orange ankles, with a little orange yarn showing between cuff and sandal.

Wings and Arms

The wings look like soft goose arms hanging down from the sides of the vest. They are cream, narrow at the shoulder, fuller in the middle, and rounded at the lower tips.

Make 2 Wings

1. R1: With cream yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 15 sts.
4. R4-R10: sc around. 15 sts for 7 rounds.
5. R11: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
6. R12-R20: sc around. 12 sts for 9 rounds.
7. R21: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 9 sts.
8. R22: sc around. 9 sts.

Stuff the lower half very lightly and leave the upper half almost flat. Flatten the opening and crochet 4 sc through both layers to close. Fasten off with a long tail.

Sew the wings to the body at a slight downward angle. The top of each wing should sit at R25 of the body, just under the vest armhole. The rounded tips should reach the upper trouser area.

Striped Blue Vest

The vest is one of the most important details. It has blue and cream horizontal stripes, a white collar, a center opening, small buttons, and a V-shaped lower front. Work it as a flat cardigan-style vest that wraps around the body.

Main Vest Piece

Use sky blue and warm cream. Change color every 2 rows to create the close stripes shown in the image. Ch 1 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch.

1. Row 1: With sky blue, ch 43. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 42. Turn.
2. Row 2: Ch 1, sc 42. Turn.
3. Row 3: Change to warm cream, ch 1, sc 42. Turn.
4. Row 4: Ch 1, sc 42. Turn.
5. Row 5: Change to sky blue, ch 1, sc 42. Turn.
6. Row 6: Ch 1, sc 42. Turn.
7. Row 7: Change to warm cream, ch 1, sc 42. Turn.
8. Row 8: Ch 1, sc 42. Turn.
9. Row 9: Change to sky blue, ch 1, sc 8, ch 8, skip 8 sts, sc 10, ch 8, skip 8 sts, sc 8. Turn. This creates armholes.
10. Row 10: Ch 1, sc 8, sc 8 into ch space, sc 10, sc 8 into ch space, sc 8. 42 sts.
11. Row 11: Change to warm cream, ch 1, sc 42. Turn.
12. Row 12: Ch 1, sc 42. Turn.
13. Row 13: Change to sky blue, ch 1, sc 42. Turn.
14. Row 14: Ch 1, sc 42. Turn.
15. Row 15: Change to warm cream, ch 1, sc 6, dec, sc 26, dec, sc 6. 40 sts.
16. Row 16: Ch 1, sc 40. Fasten off.

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Wrap the vest around the upper body. The center opening should sit at the front. The bottom points should curve around the belly, and the armholes should frame the cream wings.

Vest Front Edging

1. Join warm cream yarn to the lower right front edge.
2. Sc evenly up the right front edge, around the neckline, and down the left front edge.
3. Work 2 sc into each lower corner to keep the shape smooth.
4. Fasten off and weave in ends.

White Collar

The collar is white and folded, sitting neatly around the base of the long neck above the striped vest.

1. With white yarn, ch 25.
2. Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 24. Turn.
3. Row 2: Ch 1, sc 3, hdc 4, dc 10, hdc 4, sc 3. Turn.
4. Row 3: Ch 1, sc across. 24 sts.
5. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Sew the collar around the neckline with the dc section at the back and the shorter sc ends at the front. Fold the two front collar points outward so they look like the small white shirt collar in the photo.

Vest Buttons

• Sew 4 tiny buttons down the center front of the vest.
• Place the top button just below the collar.
• Place the second and third buttons evenly down the blue striped front.
• Place the fourth button near the lower V-shaped opening.

Use tan embroidery thread if you do not have tiny buttons. Make each button with 4 small horizontal stitches, then cross them once vertically for a raised button look.

Gray Cap

The cap is pale gray, rounded, and close-fitting, with a short brim across the front. It sits low on the head but leaves the eyes and glasses clear.

Cap Crown

1. R1: With light gray yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8-R11: sc around. 42 sts for 4 rounds.
9. R12: BLO sc around. 42 sts.
10. R13: sc around. 42 sts.
11. Fasten off and weave in end.

Cap Brim

1. Mark the front 18 stitches of R13.
2. Join gray yarn at the first marked stitch.
3. Row 1: sc 18 across the front. Turn.
4. Row 2: Ch 1, dec, sc 14, dec. 16 sts. Turn.
5. Row 3: Ch 1, dec, sc 12, dec. 14 sts. Turn.
6. Row 4: Ch 1, sc 14. Fasten off.

Sew the cap onto the head with the brim just above the glasses line. The brim should curve gently downward at the front. Add a few hidden stitches at the sides so it does not slide backward.

Daisy on Cap

The white daisy sits on the viewer’s right side of the gray cap. It has a yellow center and small rounded white petals.

Yellow Center

1. With yellow yarn and 2.0 mm hook, make 6 sc in MR.
2. Sl st to first sc and fasten off.

White Petals

1. Join white yarn to any stitch of the yellow center.
2. Ch 4, starting in second ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st into next yellow center stitch.
3. Repeat until you have 8 petals around the center.
4. Fasten off, leaving a long sewing tail.

Sew the daisy to the side of the cap, slightly above the brim. Angle it forward so it is visible from the front, just like the flower in the image.

Round Glasses

The glasses are made from black craft wire. They have two round lenses, a small bridge over the beak, and thin arms going back to the sides of the head.

1. Cut about 12 inches of black craft wire.
2. Wrap the wire around a 1 inch round marker or hook handle to form the first lens.
3. Twist once at the inner bridge.
4. Leave a 0.35 inch bridge, then wrap the second lens.
5. Bend each outer side backward to form glasses arms.
6. Trim the ends and fold the tips inward so they are not sharp.

Place the glasses over the eyes with the bridge resting above the beak. Secure each side with two tiny black sewing stitches at the head, hidden near the cap edge. Do not glue the glasses if the doll is intended for a child.

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Crossbody Satchel

The satchel is tan and hangs across the front of the goose from shoulder to opposite hip. It has a rectangular pouch, rounded flap, long strap, and tiny goose applique on the front.

Satchel Body

1. With tan yarn, ch 13.
2. Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 12. Turn.
3. Rows 2-9: Ch 1, sc 12. Turn.
4. Do not fasten off. Sc evenly around the rectangle, working 2 sc in each corner.
5. Fasten off and weave in end.

Satchel Back Panel

1. Make a second rectangle exactly the same as the body panel.
2. Hold both panels together with wrong sides facing.
3. Join tan yarn at the upper left corner.
4. Sc through both layers down the side, across the bottom, and up the other side.
5. Leave the top open.

Satchel Flap

1. With tan yarn, ch 13.
2. Row 1: Sc 12. Turn.
3. Row 2: Ch 1, sc 12. Turn.
4. Row 3: Ch 1, dec, sc 8, dec. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: Ch 1, dec, sc 6, dec. 8 sts.
6. Row 5: Ch 1, sc 8. Fasten off.

Sew the straight edge of the flap to the top back of the satchel. Fold it forward. Add a small tan or brown stitch in the center as a button detail.

Long Strap

1. With tan yarn, ch 66.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 65.
3. Turn and sl st back across for a firmer strap.
4. Fasten off with long tails.

Sew one end of the strap to the upper left side of the satchel and the other end to the upper right side. Place the strap across the goose from the viewer’s left shoulder to the viewer’s right hip.

Tiny Goose Patch on Satchel

1. With cream yarn, make 5 sc in MR, sl st to close. This is the goose body patch.
2. With orange yarn, embroider a tiny beak on one side.
3. With black thread, make one tiny eye above the beak.
4. With white yarn, make a small curved stitch under the body to suggest the neck curve.

Sew the tiny goose patch onto the lower right area of the satchel flap. It should look like the small decorative goose motif visible on the bag in the image.

Watering Can

The watering can is beige and small enough to hang from one wing. It has a rounded bucket body, a side spout, a back handle, and a small front knob.

Can Body

1. R1: With tan yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
5. R5-R10: sc around. 18 sts for 6 rounds.
6. R11: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
7. Fasten off, leaving the top open.

Stuff the bottom very lightly or leave it unstuffed for a hollow can look. Fold the top edge slightly outward with your fingers.

Watering Can Rim

1. Join tan yarn to any stitch of the top opening.
2. Sc around the 12 top stitches.
3. Sl st to close and fasten off.

Side Spout

1. With tan yarn, ch 8.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7.
3. Turn, ch 1, sc 7.
4. Fold lengthwise and sew edges together to make a narrow tube.
5. Sew one end to the side of the can at a slight upward angle.

Back Handle

1. With tan yarn, ch 14.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st 13.
3. Sew one end near the top back of the can and the other end near the lower back.

Small Side Knob

1. With tan yarn, 5 sc in MR.
2. Pull tight and fasten off.
3. Sew to the side of the can opposite the spout.

Sew the watering can handle into the viewer’s left wing. The can should hang slightly forward, as if the goose is carrying it while seated in the garden.

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Potted Succulent

The image includes a small terracotta pot with dark soil and green succulent leaves. This accessory sits beside the goose and adds to the garden theme.

Terracotta Pot

1. R1: With terracotta yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: BLO sc around. 18 sts.
5. R5-R9: sc around. 18 sts for 5 rounds.
6. R10: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
7. R11: sc around. 24 sts.
8. Fasten off.

Soil Disk

1. With dark brown yarn, 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. Fasten off with a long tail.

Stuff the pot lightly. Sew the soil disk into the top opening, keeping it flat and slightly below the rim.

Succulent Leaves

1. Large leaf: With green yarn, ch 7. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 2, hdc 2, sc 1, sl st 1. Make 8 leaves.
2. Small leaf: With light green yarn, ch 5. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st 1. Make 6 leaves.
3. Arrange large leaves in a circle on the soil and sew them down.
4. Layer small leaves on top, pointing upward and outward.

Shape the leaves with your fingers so they curve slightly upward. The finished plant should look full, compact, and rounded like the succulent beside the goose in the photo.

Garden Trowel

The small trowel has a brown handle and a pale metal scoop. It rests beside the plant pot in the image.

Handle

1. With brown yarn, ch 9.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 8.
3. Turn, ch 1, sc 8.
4. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Trowel Scoop

1. With pale gray or off-white yarn, ch 6.
2. Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5. Turn.
3. Row 2: Ch 1, inc, sc 3, inc. 7 sts.
4. Row 3: Ch 1, sc 7. Turn.
5. Row 4: Ch 1, dec, sc 3, dec. 5 sts.
6. Row 5: Ch 1, dec, sc 1, dec. 3 sts.
7. Row 6: Ch 1, sc 3 together. 1 st.
8. Fasten off.

Sew the narrow end of the scoop to the brown handle. Add two small straight stitches across the join to make it look like a garden tool.

Assembly Order

Assembling in the correct order helps the clothing and accessories sit cleanly. Pin all pieces first before sewing permanently. This is especially important for the neck, vest, satchel, and glasses.

1. Sew the head to the neck, keeping the beak centered.
2. Sew the neck to the top of the body at R28-R30 of the body.
3. Put the gray trousers onto the body and adjust the seated shape.
4. Sew the orange legs under the trouser cuffs.
5. Sew the feet and sandals so the toes point forward and slightly outward.
6. Wrap the striped vest around the upper body and sew it closed at the side seams only.
7. Sew the wings through the vest armholes, angled downward.
8. Add the white collar around the neck and sew the vest buttons.
9. Place the cap on the head and sew the brim edge lightly.
10. Sew the white daisy onto the cap.
11. Add the wire glasses and secure them with black thread.
12. Place the satchel strap diagonally across the chest and tack it at the shoulder and hip.
13. Sew the watering can to one wing.
14. Finish the plant pot and trowel as separate garden accessories.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the face from the front before tying off your final threads. The eyes should sit evenly behind the round glasses. The beak should be centered and project forward. The cap brim should sit just above the glasses, with the daisy placed on one side.

• Add one tiny white highlight stitch beside each black eye if you did not use glossy safety eyes.
• Use cream yarn to make two small tightening stitches under the eyes for a gentle cheek shape.
• Use orange yarn to smooth the beak attachment edge if any cream stitches show.
• Shape the neck upright by rolling it gently between your fingers.
• Steam is not recommended directly on the wire glasses or safety eyes.

Care Notes

This goose is best used as a decorative handmade item. Because it includes wire glasses, buttons, and small accessories, it is not suitable for children under three years old unless those parts are embroidered instead.

• Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if using wire glasses or glued details.
• Keep away from strong sunlight to prevent fading.
• Store the goose upright so the neck and cap keep their shape.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The goose has a long cream neck and rounded head.
• The orange beak is centered and lightly stuffed.
• The gray cap has a front brim and side daisy.
• The glasses are round, black, and sit over both eyes.
• The vest has blue and cream stripes, a white collar, and four buttons.
• The trousers are gray, loose, and cuffed above the orange ankles.
• The brown sandals show the orange toes and yellow flowers.
• The tan satchel crosses the body diagonally and has a goose patch.
• The watering can is held by the wing.
• The potted succulent and trowel are finished as matching accessories.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the shape, dust the goose regularly with a soft dry cloth. For deeper cleaning, dab only the stained area with cool water and mild soap. Avoid soaking the doll because the stuffing, wire glasses, and small sewn details may shift.

After spot cleaning, press the area gently with a towel and let it air dry completely. Do not use a dryer. Reshape the cap brim, vest collar, wings, and satchel strap while the yarn is still slightly damp.

When storing, wrap the goose loosely in tissue paper and place it in a breathable box. Keep the watering can, plant pot, and trowel beside the doll instead of pressed against the face. This prevents dents in the beak, glasses, and cap flower.