Meet a cozy storytime bunny dressed for a dreamy bookshop stroll, complete with a lilac Fair Isle-style dress, a cream cardigan, and a soft beret cap with a tiny bow. If you love knitted doll patterns, DK yarn colorwork, and collectible handmade plush toys, this set is designed to feel like a boutique heirloom. You’ll also knit a mini deer friend, a tote bag, and small book accessories that look adorable in photos and craft-fair displays. Use quality toy stuffing, smooth double-pointed needles, and sturdy embroidery floss for crisp details and long-lasting play.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Overview
This project includes one large bunny doll with removable outfit pieces, one small deer companion, and three accessories: a tote bag, a tiny book with a bookmark ribbon, and a folded “page scarf” cloth. The style is smooth stockinette with tidy seams and light shaping for a round, plush silhouette.
The garments are built to match the photo: a cream cardigan with lilac scalloped yoke detail, a lilac dress with a cream stranded motif band, and soft lace-up shoes. The bunny’s cap is a beret with a short brim and a small lilac bow on the side.
Skill Level
- Intermediate (confident beginner can follow with patience)
- Skills used: knitting in the round, small-circumference knitting, increases/decreases, simple colorwork, basic seaming, picking up stitches, and embroidery
Finished Measurements
- Large Bunny: about 11–12 in (28–30 cm) tall from feet to hat top
- Small Deer: about 6–7 in (15–18 cm) tall
- Tote Bag: about 3 in (7.5 cm) tall, 3 in (7.5 cm) wide, with short handles
Materials
Choose smooth yarn so the stitched face and colorwork stay crisp. DK weight gives the plush, boutique look in the photo. You can substitute sport weight for a slightly smaller set, but keep gauge consistent.
- DK yarn (main set): Bunny taupe (A), Cream (B), Lilac (C), Small amount of Mauve/Pale Purple (D)
- DK yarn (deer): Warm brown (E), Cream (B), Lilac (C), Small amount of Dark brown/black (F)
- Stuffing: high-quality polyester toy filling
- Eyes: 8–10 mm safety eyes for bunny, 6–7 mm for deer (or embroider eyes for child-safe option)
- Nose/mouth: light pink embroidery floss (or pale lilac floss for a softer look)
- Buttons: 5–7 small buttons (about 8–10 mm) in pale lilac for bunny cardigan and dress placket; 2–3 tiny buttons for deer jacket (optional)
- Needles: US 2.5 (3.0 mm) and US 3 (3.25 mm) DPNs or magic loop
- Notions: stitch markers, tapestry needle, scissors, row counter, small safety pins
- Optional support: pipe cleaners or thin craft wire (for lightly poseable ears only)
Gauge
Main fabric: 26 sts x 34 rnds = 4 in (10 cm) in stockinette with US 2.5–3 needles, lightly stuffed. Gauge is not critical, but your fabric must be tight enough that stuffing does not show through.
If your stitches look open, go down a needle size. If your fabric is stiff and hard to stuff smoothly, go up a size and reduce stuffing density slightly.
Color Notes
- Bunny body is a warm taupe. In the photo it reads like oatmeal-tan with a slightly rosy tone.
- Cardigan and collar are cream with lilac decorative edging and lilac buttons.
- Dress is lilac with a cream motif band and a lilac button placket down the chest.
- Shoes are taupe/stone with cream laces.
- Deer has a warm brown head and limbs with a cream dress and lilac cardigan.
Abbreviations
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd = round
- RS/WS = right side/wrong side
- k2tog = knit 2 together
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- m1L/m1R = make one left/right
- inc = increase (use m1L/m1R unless noted)
- dec = decrease
- BO = bind off
- CO = cast on
- pm = place marker
- sm = slip marker
- MC/CC = main color/contrast color
Helpful Techniques
Invisible increase: m1L/m1R keeps shaping smooth on toys. Work them a little snug so no holes form. If you prefer, use kfb, but your fabric may show tiny bumps.
Jogless stripes: when changing colors in the round, lift the first stitch of the new color and knit through the back loop on the next round to reduce a “step.” This is helpful on the dress motif band.
Neat button bands: slip the first stitch of every row on the cardigan bands to create a clean chain edge that looks professional.
Construction Summary
- Bunny: feet and legs in the round, join to body, shape torso and neck, then head. Ears are separate and sewn on.
- Dress: knit bottom-up in the round, add stranded motif band, then work bodice with a faux button placket.
- Cardigan: knit flat with set-in sleeves (toy scale) and a scalloped lilac yoke/shoulder detail to match the photo.
- Cap: knit from crown down, then add a short brim. Bow is a tiny knit rectangle cinched in the middle.
- Shoes: knit as soft booties with a stitched sole line and i-cord style laces.
- Deer: similar approach but smaller, with embroidered facial details and tiny garments.
- Accessories: tote bag knit flat and seamed, book knit as a small cover with “pages,” plus a folded cloth.
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Large Bunny: Body
Feet (make 2)
Work in taupe (A). CO 24 sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. pm for beginning of rnd.
Rnd 1–6: k all.
Rnd 7 (shape toe): k6, k2tog, k8, ssk, k6. (22 sts)
Rnd 8: k all.
Rnd 9: k6, k2tog, k6, ssk, k6. (20 sts)
Rnd 10: k all.
Rnd 11: k5, k2tog, k6, ssk, k5. (18 sts)
Rnd 12–16: k all.
Stuff the toe lightly so it stays rounded. Do not overstuff; you want a soft “shoe” look later.
Legs (make 2, then join)
Continue from each foot in (A).
Rnd 17: k all.
Rnd 18 (widen ankle slightly): k4, m1R, k9, m1L, k4. (20 sts)
Rnd 19–26: k all.
At this point each leg should look like a tidy tube with a rounded foot. Add more stuffing to the foot and lower leg, keeping the leg firm but squeezable.
BO one leg yarn? No. Leave first leg on needles. Cut yarn after the first leg leaving a 10 in tail. Work the second leg the same, but do not cut yarn.
Join Legs and Knit Body
With the second leg on needles and yarn attached, k across its sts. CO 4 sts using backward loop CO. Now knit across the first leg sts. CO 4 more sts. pm at the center back (halfway across the second leg) to help align the body.
Total sts: 20 + 4 + 20 + 4 = 48 sts.
Rnd 1: k all, working across the CO bridges carefully so no gaps form.
Rnd 2 (close gaps): when you reach each bridge, pick up 1 extra st at the corner (twist it when knitting). You should add 2 sts total. (50 sts)
Rnd 3–10: k all.
Now the body starts to look like a single piece. Stuff the legs fully, shaping the inner thighs so they sit close together like in the photo.
Tummy and Hip Shaping
Rnd 11: k7, m1R, k11, m1L, k13, m1R, k11, m1L, k7. (54 sts)
Rnd 12–16: k all.
Rnd 17: k8, m1R, k11, m1L, k14, m1R, k11, m1L, k8. (58 sts)
Rnd 18–24: k all.
Begin stuffing the lower torso. Shape a gentle belly so the dress hangs smoothly, but keep the waist area slightly narrower so the cardigan closes nicely.
Waist to Chest
Rnd 25 (slight waist): k8, k2tog, k9, ssk, k18, k2tog, k9, ssk, k8. (54 sts)
Rnd 26–30: k all.
Rnd 31 (waist): k7, k2tog, k9, ssk, k18, k2tog, k9, ssk, k7. (50 sts)
Rnd 32–36: k all.
This creates a gentle waistline that matches the photo’s outfit fit. Add stuffing up to the chest. Keep the waist a little less stuffed than the belly so the shape reads “dressed” rather than “ball.”
Neck Base
Rnd 37: k6, k2tog, k7, ssk, k16, k2tog, k7, ssk, k6. (46 sts)
Rnd 38: k all.
Rnd 39: k5, k2tog, k7, ssk, k14, k2tog, k7, ssk, k5. (42 sts)
Rnd 40–41: k all.
Place a marker at the front center. This will help align the face and dress placket later.
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Large Bunny: Arms
Arms (make 2)
With taupe (A), CO 18 sts. Join in the round.
Rnd 1–6: k all.
Rnd 7 (shape wrist): k4, k2tog, k6, ssk, k4. (16 sts)
Rnd 8–18: k all.
Rnd 19 (slight taper): k3, k2tog, k6, ssk, k3. (14 sts)
Rnd 20–28: k all.
Stuff hand and lower arm firmly. Leave the upper arm lightly stuffed so it bends gently under the cardigan sleeves.
BO loosely, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the top opening and sew it closed with a few whipstitches so the arm has a neat shoulder line.
Large Bunny: Head and Neck
Head (continue from body)
Switch to US 2.5 (3.0 mm) if you used a larger needle for the body, to keep the face tight and smooth.
Rnd 42 (begin head shaping): k all.
Rnd 43: k6, m1R, k9, m1L, k10, m1R, k9, m1L, k6. (46 sts)
Rnd 44: k all.
Rnd 45: k7, m1R, k9, m1L, k12, m1R, k9, m1L, k7. (50 sts)
Rnd 46–50: k all.
Rnd 51: k8, m1R, k9, m1L, k14, m1R, k9, m1L, k8. (54 sts)
Rnd 52–58: k all.
Start stuffing the head now, especially around the cheeks. Push stuffing outward to form a rounded face, but keep the top crown area slightly softer until the end.
Place Eyes
For the photo look, place the eyes wide and calm. Insert safety eyes between Rnd 55 and Rnd 56, about 10–11 sts apart. Check alignment with the front marker and adjust until the expression looks gentle and centered.
If using embroidered eyes, wait until after closing the head so you can pinch the face and position the features precisely.
Close Head
Rnd 59 (begin decreases): k8, k2tog, k9, ssk, k12, k2tog, k9, ssk, k8. (50 sts)
Rnd 60: k all.
Rnd 61: k7, k2tog, k9, ssk, k10, k2tog, k9, ssk, k7. (46 sts)
Rnd 62: k all.
Rnd 63: k6, k2tog, k9, ssk, k8, k2tog, k9, ssk, k6. (42 sts)
Rnd 64: k all.
Rnd 65: k5, k2tog, k9, ssk, k6, k2tog, k9, ssk, k5. (38 sts)
Rnd 66: k all.
Stuff the head firmly now. Shape the muzzle area by adding a small extra tuft of stuffing right under where the nose will be. Smooth the stuffing with your fingers so the surface looks even.
Rnd 67: k4, k2tog, k9, ssk, k4, k2tog, k9, ssk, k4. (34 sts)
Rnd 68: k all.
Rnd 69: k3, k2tog, k9, ssk, k2, k2tog, k9, ssk, k3. (30 sts)
Rnd 70: k all.
Rnd 71: k2, k2tog, k9, ssk, k2tog, k9, ssk, k2. (26 sts)
Rnd 72: k all.
Rnd 73: k1, k2tog, k8, ssk, k2tog, k8, ssk, k1. (22 sts)
Rnd 74: k all.
Rnd 75: k2tog around. (11 sts)
Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight to close. Weave in securely.
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Large Bunny: Ears
Ears (make 2)
Work in taupe (A) flat for a neat edge, then seam. CO 20 sts.
Row 1 (RS): k all.
Row 2 (WS): p all.
Row 3: k all.
Row 4: p all.
Row 5 (shape): k2, ssk, k14, k2tog, k2. (18 sts)
Row 6: p all.
Row 7: k2, ssk, k12, k2tog, k2. (16 sts)
Row 8: p all.
Row 9: k2, ssk, k10, k2tog, k2. (14 sts)
Row 10: p all.
Row 11–18: work even in stockinette (k on RS, p on WS).
Row 19: k2, ssk, k8, k2tog, k2. (12 sts)
Row 20: p all.
Row 21: k2, ssk, k6, k2tog, k2. (10 sts)
Row 22: p all.
Row 23: k2, ssk, k4, k2tog, k2. (8 sts)
Row 24: p all.
Row 25: k2, ssk, k2tog, k2. (5 sts)
Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull snug. Fold ear lengthwise, seam along the edge with mattress stitch, leaving the lower 1 in open for attaching. Lightly stuff the ear base only, keeping the tip soft so it drapes.
To match the photo, let the ears hang down beside the face. Position them slightly behind the cheeks so the hat brim sits in front.
Large Bunny: Face Details
Use light pink embroidery floss. Mark the center of the muzzle about 1.25 in (3 cm) below the eyes. Stitch a small vertical line for the nose bridge, then a tiny “Y” shape for the mouth.
Keep stitches delicate and symmetrical. The photo shows a very calm expression, so avoid large eyebrows or heavy outlines.
Dress (Lilac Fair Isle-Style)
The dress is a one-piece garment: skirt worked in the round, then a bodice with a buttoned placket look at the front. The motif band is cream on lilac, similar to a small geometric flower/diamond pattern.
Skirt
With lilac (C), CO 72 sts. Join in the round. pm at beginning of rnd.
Rnd 1–6: k1, p1 rib.
Rnd 7–26: k all.
To create a gentle A-line, add increases spaced around the skirt.
Rnd 27: *k8, m1R* repeat to end. (81 sts)
Rnd 28–34: k all.
Rnd 35: *k9, m1R* repeat to end. (90 sts)
Rnd 36–42: k all.
This skirt should fit loosely over the bunny’s tummy and sit at the waist without stretching too much.
Motif Band
Switch to stranded colorwork using lilac (C) as MC and cream (B) as CC. Keep floats short by catching the CC every 3–4 sts.
Work the following 10-rnd motif repeat. If you prefer, chart it on paper as you go. The goal is a tiny repeated shape, not a bold high-contrast design.
- Rnd 1: *k3 MC, k1 CC* repeat
- Rnd 2: *k2 MC, k1 CC, k1 MC* repeat
- Rnd 3: *k1 MC, k1 CC, k2 MC* repeat
- Rnd 4: *k1 CC, k3 MC* repeat
- Rnd 5: k all MC
- Rnd 6: *k1 CC, k3 MC* repeat
- Rnd 7: *k1 MC, k1 CC, k2 MC* repeat
- Rnd 8: *k2 MC, k1 CC, k1 MC* repeat
- Rnd 9: *k3 MC, k1 CC* repeat
- Rnd 10: k all MC
Repeat the 10-rnd motif once more if you want a taller patterned section like the photo. Then switch back to lilac (C) only.
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Upper Skirt to Waist
Rnd 1–6 (after motif): k all in (C).
Now reduce to prepare for the bodice.
Next rnd: *k8, k2tog* repeat to end. (81 sts)
Next rnd: k all.
Next rnd: *k7, k2tog* repeat to end. (72 sts)
At this point the dress should look like a full skirt with a neat waistband area.
Bodice
Work bodice in the round for 10 rnds, then transition to a front opening illusion using a faux placket. The photo shows a centered lilac placket with small buttons.
Rnd 1–8: k all.
Create a “placket panel” at the front center: mark 10 sts centered on the front. These 10 sts will be worked in a texture that looks like a button band.
Rnd 9: work to 10 front-panel sts, then k2, p6, k2 for the panel, then k the rest.
Rnd 10: repeat Rnd 9.
Rnd 11–16: continue, keeping the panel as k2, p6, k2 every rnd.
This small purl section gives a subtle raised edge when viewed from the front, mimicking the look of a stitched placket.
Armholes and Straps
Separate for armholes by binding off underarms and working the top flat. Transfer the back half and front half to separate needles.
Divide: 36 sts front, 36 sts back. BO 2 sts at each side edge for underarms, so each piece becomes 34 sts.
Work back flat in stockinette for 10 rows, then shape shoulders.
Back Row 1 (RS): k all.
Back Row 2 (WS): p all.
Repeat for 10 rows.
Shape: BO 5 sts at start of next 2 RS rows. BO remaining sts.
Work front the same length, maintaining the placket panel centered. For the top, keep the panel as k2, p6, k2 on RS rows only, and purl it on WS rows so it stays consistent.
Front: work 10 rows. Shape shoulders the same. BO remaining.
Sew shoulder seams. Pick up 48 sts around neckline with (C) and work 6 rows of k1, p1 rib. BO loosely.
Mark button placement down the center placket area and sew 4–5 small buttons, evenly spaced, like in the photo.
Cardigan (Cream with Lilac Scalloped Detail)
The cardigan is knit flat in cream (B) with a decorative lilac scallop effect across the upper chest/shoulder line. It closes with small lilac buttons and has tidy, slightly rounded sleeves.
Back
With cream (B), CO 38 sts.
Row 1 (RS): k all.
Row 2 (WS): p all.
Row 3–18: continue stockinette.
Shape armholes:
Row 19 (RS): BO 2, k to end. (36 sts)
Row 20 (WS): BO 2, p to end. (34 sts)
Row 21–30: work even in stockinette.
Shape shoulders and neck:
Row 31 (RS): BO 5, k12, BO 12, k to end. (5 sts each shoulder remain)
Row 32 (WS): BO 5, p to end. Repeat for other side.
Left Front
CO 22 sts in cream (B).
Row 1 (RS): k all.
Row 2 (WS): p all.
Work stockinette, but keep a neat front edge by slipping the first st of every row knitwise with yarn in front.
Row 3–18: continue.
Armhole shaping matches the back:
Row 19 (RS): BO 2, k to end. (20 sts)
Row 20 (WS): p all.
Row 21–30: work even.
Neck shaping:
Row 31 (RS): k to last 4, k2tog, k2.
Row 32 (WS): p all.
Row 33: k to last 4, k2tog, k2.
Row 34: p all.
Row 35: k to last 4, k2tog, k2.
BO shoulder sts to match back shoulder height. Leave a long tail for seaming.
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Right Front
Work as Left Front, mirrored. For neck shaping on RS rows: k2, ssk, k to end.
Sleeves (make 2)
With cream (B), CO 18 sts. Work flat.
Row 1: k all.
Row 2: p all.
Increase gradually for a soft sleeve shape:
Row 3 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (20 sts)
Row 4: p all.
Row 5–14: stockinette.
Row 15: repeat increase row. (22 sts)
Row 16: p all.
Row 17–22: stockinette.
Cap shaping:
Row 23 (RS): BO 2, k to end. (20)
Row 24 (WS): BO 2, p to end. (18)
Row 25: k all.
Row 26: p all.
Row 27: BO 2, k to end. (16)
Row 28: BO 2, p to end. (14)
BO remaining. Seam sleeves, then set into armholes.
Lilac Scalloped Detail
The photo shows a lilac decorative “scallop” edge around the yoke area. Add it after seaming by picking up stitches and working a short lace-like ruffle.
With lilac (C), pick up 44–48 sts evenly along the top front edges and across the upper back, forming a curved yoke line. The exact stitch count can vary; keep it symmetrical.
Work 4 rows flat:
- Row 1 (RS): k all
- Row 2 (WS): p all
- Row 3: *k2tog, yo* repeat to end (creates small eyelets)
- Row 4: p all
BO with a loose bind-off to create a soft, scalloped drape. If you want more scallop, add one more eyelet row and purl row before binding off.
Button Bands and Collar
With cream (B), pick up stitches along the left front edge and neck. Work 6 rows of k1, p1 rib. BO loosely.
Repeat for the right front edge. On the right band, create buttonholes on Row 3 by working: k2, yo, k2tog, then continue rib. Space 4–5 buttonholes evenly to match the photo.
Sew lilac buttons onto the left band. Add a small lilac button near the top collar point for a snug close.
Beret Cap with Brim and Bow
The cap in the photo is a soft beret with a short brim and a slightly puffed crown. Knit it in taupe (A) and add a tiny lilac bow (C) on the right side.
Cap Crown
With taupe (A), CO 12 sts. Join in the round.
Rnd 1: k all.
Rnd 2: *k1, m1R* repeat. (24 sts)
Rnd 3: k all.
Rnd 4: *k2, m1R* repeat. (36 sts)
Rnd 5: k all.
Rnd 6: *k3, m1R* repeat. (48 sts)
Rnd 7–12: k all.
Increase again for a puffed beret shape.
Rnd 13: *k4, m1R* repeat. (58 sts)
Rnd 14–18: k all.
Now decrease slightly to bring the hat toward the head.
Rnd 19: *k5, k2tog* repeat. (50 sts)
Rnd 20–22: k all.
Rnd 23: *k4, k2tog* repeat. (40 sts)
Rnd 24–26: k all.
Brim
Switch to smaller needle if needed for a firmer brim edge.
Rnd 27: *k1, m1R* repeat. (80 sts)
Rnd 28–31: k all.
Rnd 32: k1, p1 rib for 3 rnds to create a subtle brim roll line.
BO loosely in rib.
Steam very lightly to smooth the crown. Do not flatten the beret completely; keep a gentle puff like the photo.
Bow
With lilac (C), CO 10 sts. Knit 10 rows in stockinette (k on RS, p on WS). BO.
Wrap a short strand of (C) tightly around the center 6–8 times to cinch. Knot on the back. Sew the bow to the hat near the brim, slightly off-center.
Shoes and Laces
The shoes in the photo are soft, rounded, and lace-up. Knit them in taupe (A) with cream laces (B).
Shoe (make 2)
CO 22 sts in (A). Knit flat for the sole.
Row 1: k all.
Row 2: p all.
Row 3: k all.
Row 4: p all.
Shape toe:
Row 5 (RS): k2, ssk, k14, k2tog, k2. (20)
Row 6 (WS): p all.
Row 7: k2, ssk, k12, k2tog, k2. (18)
Row 8: p all.
Fold the piece and seam the toe and heel edges, leaving an opening for the ankle. Pick up 18 sts around the opening and work 6 rnds in stockinette. BO loosely.
For the stitched sole line, embroider a simple running stitch around the bottom edge using a slightly darker taupe if desired.
Laces
With cream (B), make two thin cords about 10 in (25 cm) long. You can use an i-cord with 2 sts, or twist two strands tightly and knot the ends.
Thread laces through the top shoe opening in a crisscross. Tie a small bow at the front, keeping it compact like in the photo.
Small Deer Companion
The deer is a petite friend with a warm brown head, cream snout, tiny ears, and a simple dress plus lilac cardigan. Keep the facial features sweet and minimal so the deer looks gentle next to the bunny.
Deer Head
With warm brown (E), CO 18 sts and join in the round.
Rnd 1–6: k all.
Rnd 7: *k2, m1R* repeat. (24 sts)
Rnd 8–12: k all.
Shape snout: switch to cream (B) for the front 8 sts only using intarsia-in-the-round technique (or duplicate stitch later). If you prefer simple construction, keep head brown and embroider a cream snout patch afterward.
Rnd 13–18: k all, keeping the snout area lighter if chosen.
Place eyes between Rnd 15 and 16 about 6–7 sts apart. Stuff head firmly.
Decrease:
Rnd 19: *k2, k2tog* repeat. (18)
Rnd 20: k all.
Rnd 21: *k1, k2tog* repeat. (12)
Rnd 22: k all.
Rnd 23: k2tog around. (6)
Cut yarn, close.
Deer Ears (make 2)
CO 8 sts in (E). Knit 6 rows in stockinette. BO. Fold and seam to form a small leaf shape. Sew to head.
Deer Body
With cream (B), CO 20 sts. Join in the round.
Rnd 1–4: k1, p1 rib.
Rnd 5–18: k all.
Stuff lightly at first. The deer dress will cover this, so keep the body smooth rather than overstuffed.
Decrease for neck:
Rnd 19: *k3, k2tog* repeat. (16)
Rnd 20–22: k all.
BO and sew body to head. Add a small extra tuft of stuffing at the upper chest so the head sits upright.
Deer Arms (make 2)
With warm brown (E), CO 10 sts. Join in the round.
Rnd 1–8: k all.
Stuff hand lightly. BO, leaving tail. Sew to body sides.
Deer Legs (make 2)
With warm brown (E), CO 10 sts. Join.
Rnd 1–10: k all.
Stuff lightly. BO, sew to body.
Deer Dress
With cream (B), CO 36 sts. Join.
Rnd 1–4: k1, p1 rib.
Rnd 5–12: k all.
Optional lilac motif stripe like the photo theme:
Rnd 13: *k3 B, k1 C* repeat.
Rnd 14: k all B.
Rnd 15–18: k all B. BO loosely. Slide onto deer.
Deer Cardigan
With lilac (C), CO 26 sts. Knit flat in stockinette for 10 rows, slipping first stitch each row for neat edges.
Divide for armholes by binding off 2 sts at each side on the next RS row. Work 6 more rows, then BO. Sew small side seams and slip onto deer like a tiny jacket.
Optionally sew 1–2 tiny buttons at the front, but it also looks cute left open.
Deer Cap
With warm brown (E), CO 18 sts and join. Work 8 rnds stockinette. Decrease: *k1, k2tog* repeat (12), then k 1 rnd, then k2tog around (6). Close.
Fold the lower edge slightly to form a tiny brim. Tack in place with a few stitches.
Accessories
Tote Bag
The tote in the photo is a small, boxy bag with short handles and a lilac lining hint. Knit it flat in cream (B) with a lilac accent (C).
CO 26 sts in (B). Knit 18 rows in garter stitch (k every row). This forms a sturdy fabric that holds its shape.
Switch to (C) for 2 rows, then back to (B) for 4 rows. BO.
Fold into a bag shape: seam side edges, leaving top open. For a flat bottom, pinch the bottom corners and sew a short seam across each corner.
Handles: with (B), CO 4 sts and knit i-cord for 4 in (10 cm) twice. Sew ends to the bag top edges. Add a small lilac stitch or button detail on the front if desired.
Mini Book with Bookmark
With cream (B), CO 18 sts. Knit 10 rows in stockinette. BO. This is the cover.
Pages: with white or cream, CO 14 sts. Knit 8 rows garter stitch. BO. Make 2 page pieces.
Stack pages inside the cover. Sew along the “spine” with a running stitch. Add a thin lilac ribbon (C) as a bookmark, stitching it into the spine seam.
Folded Page Scarf Cloth
This small folded cloth looks like a tiny scarf or handkerchief in the photo. With cream (B), CO 20 sts. Knit 14 rows in garter stitch. BO.
Add a lilac edging by picking up stitches around the edge with (C) and knitting 1 round, then BO. Fold neatly into a rectangle and tack one corner if you want it to stay folded.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Sew bunny arms to the upper body, slightly forward so the cardigan sleeves sit naturally. Attach ears behind the cheek line, then place the hat so the brim frames the face and the bow sits on the right side.
For facial detailing, stitch the nose and mouth delicately. If you want extra charm, add a tiny blush by lightly brushing pink pastel on the cheeks, then sealing with a gentle fabric-safe fixative.
Care Notes
- Spot clean with mild soap and cool water whenever possible.
- If a deeper clean is needed, hand wash gently and press in a towel to remove moisture.
- Reshape while damp, especially the hat brim and cardigan edges.
- Let dry fully away from direct sunlight to protect lilac tones.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- All seams are secure, especially arms, ears, and head join.
- No stuffing shows through fabric when squeezed.
- Buttons are sewn tightly with reinforced threads.
- Dress sits at the waist and the placket is centered.
- Hat is slightly puffed and bow is firmly attached.
- Shoes fit snugly and laces are tied neatly.
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
To preserve the boutique look, store the dolls in a breathable cotton bag. Avoid plastic bins in humid climates, as moisture can dull fibers and affect stuffing. If displaying, rotate out of bright window light to prevent fading, and gently fluff the dress skirt to keep its shape.
For long-term keepsakes, remove accessories from the bag so handles do not stretch. Keep buttons and ribbons away from rough surfaces, and periodically check stitches at stress points like shoulders and shoe openings.


