This Lily-of-the-Valley Porcelain Bunny is a heirloom-style knitted doll designed to look like delicate porcelain, with soft shaping, refined clothing, and tiny floral details. If you enjoy shopping for a premium yarn kit, tiny buttons, doll clothes notions, and quality stuffing, this project is especially satisfying. The finished set includes a dressed bunny, a matching bonnet with lily-of-the-valley clusters, a sky-blue cardigan, shoes, a small purse, a bouquet, and a mini bunny friend.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Finished Size
- Main bunny (sitting): approx. 13–15 in (33–38 cm) tall, depending on yarn and stuffing density
- Mini bunny friend: approx. 6–7 in (15–18 cm) tall
- Cardigan: cropped, open-front, with rounded petal collar
- Dress: ankle-length skirt on main bunny, knee-length on mini bunny
Yarn and Notions
Choose smooth, tightly spun yarn for the “porcelain” look. A worsted/DK that knits into clean stockinette is ideal. Keep stuffing firm but not rock-hard so the face stays rounded and calm.
- Main bunny color (Porcelain Cream): approx. 350–450 yd (320–410 m) DK
- Cardigan color (Powder Blue): approx. 200–260 yd (180–240 m) DK
- Vine color (Leaf Green): approx. 40–60 yd (36–55 m) DK or sport
- Bell flowers (Soft White): approx. 60–90 yd (55–82 m) DK
- Shoe trim (Soft White): approx. 20–30 yd (18–28 m)
- Embroidery floss or thin yarn (Warm Brown) for nose and mouth
- Safety eyes: 8–10 mm for main bunny, 6–7 mm for mini bunny (or embroider eyes)
- Buttons: 1 small white button for cardigan neck, 1 small blue button for purse flap, 2 tiny buttons for shoe straps (optional)
- Stuffing
- Tapestry needle, stitch markers, scrap yarn, pins
Needles and Gauge
- US 3 (3.25 mm) and US 4 (3.5 mm) straight needles or circular for flat knitting
- Optional: US 2 (2.75 mm) for tighter i-cords and tiny bells
Gauge: 24 sts x 34 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in stockinette on smaller needle, after light blocking. Exact gauge is less important than fabric density. You want a firm fabric so stuffing will not show.
Construction Overview
The dolls are knitted flat in pieces and seamed. The main bunny has a rounded head with gentle cheeks, long floppy ears, a simple torso, and slightly chubby legs and arms. Clothing is removable: the dress slips on, the cardigan closes at the neck with one button, and the bonnet ties under the chin. Floral decorations are knitted separately and sewn on.
Work slowly and check placement often. The look in the photo comes from neat finishing, consistent tension, and careful assembly angles, especially on the cheeks, ears, collar, and skirt hem.
Abbreviations
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS/WS = right side/wrong side
- k2tog = knit 2 together
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- yo = yarn over
- m1L/m1R = make 1 increase left/right
- sl = slip stitch purlwise
- BO = bind off
- CO = cast on
- rep = repeat
- pm/sm = place marker/slip marker
Helpful Techniques Used
- Invisible mattress seam for stockinette pieces
- Simple short-row shaping (optional) for cheeks and collar rounding
- Bobbles for the dress texture
- Eyelets for the bodice and mini dress
- Basic cable for bonnet braid and cardigan vine panels
- I-cord for ties and stems
Bobbles (small)
On RS: (k into front, k into back, k into front) of same st = 3 sts. Turn, p3. Turn, k3. Turn, p3. Turn, k3tog to return to 1 st. Keep bobbles tidy by snugging the turns gently.
Simple 4-st Cable (C4F)
Slip next 2 sts to a cable needle and hold in front. k2 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle.
I-cord (3 sts)
CO 3 sts. Do not turn. Slide sts to the other end of the needle, pull yarn snug across the back, k3. Repeat to desired length.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Main Bunny: Head
The head is worked as a wide oval panel that is seamed at the back, then gathered slightly at top and bottom to create a rounded sphere. Cheeks are created by stuffing and shaping with a few anchor stitches.
Head Panel
With Porcelain Cream and smaller needle, CO 48 sts.
Row 1 (WS): p all.
Row 2 (RS): k all.
Rows 3–6: rep Rows 1–2 twice.
Row 7 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (50)
Row 8 (WS): p all.
Row 9 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (52)
Row 10 (WS): p all.
Row 11 (RS): k all.
Row 12 (WS): p all.
Row 13 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (54)
Row 14 (WS): p all.
Rows 15–34: work even in stockinette (RS knit, WS purl).
Row 35 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (52)
Row 36 (WS): p all.
Row 37 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (50)
Row 38 (WS): p all.
Row 39 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (48)
Row 40 (WS): p all.
Row 41 (RS): k all.
Row 42 (WS): p all.
Row 43 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (46)
Row 44 (WS): p all.
Row 45 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (44)
Row 46 (WS): p all.
Row 47 (RS): k all.
Row 48 (WS): p all.
BO loosely on RS.
Head Seaming and Stuffing
Fold the head panel with RS facing out. Seam the BO edge to the CO edge using mattress stitch, forming a tube. Use a long tail for shaping later. Run gathering stitches along the top edge and bottom edge separately.
Pull the bottom gathering slightly closed and knot, leaving an opening to stuff. Stuff firmly, working fibers into the sides so the head becomes round. Close the bottom fully. Pull the top gathering closed and knot. Hide tails inside.
To create the gentle “porcelain” cheeks, place the head seam at the back center. With a tapestry needle and Porcelain Cream, take a small stitch from center front to slightly left, pull gently, then to slightly right, creating subtle cheek indentations. Do not over-tighten.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Main Bunny: Ears (Make 2)
The ears are long, softly rounded, and hang down along the sides of the head under the bonnet. Knit them in smooth stockinette with a small garter edge to prevent curling at the outer rim.
Ear
With Porcelain Cream and smaller needle, CO 22 sts.
Row 1 (WS): k2, p to last 2, k2.
Row 2 (RS): k2, k to last 2, k2.
Rows 3–8: rep Rows 1–2 three times.
Row 9 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (20)
Row 10 (WS): k2, p to last 2, k2.
Row 11 (RS): k2, k to last 2, k2.
Row 12 (WS): k2, p to last 2, k2.
Row 13 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (18)
Row 14 (WS): k2, p to last 2, k2.
Row 15 (RS): k2, k to last 2, k2.
Row 16 (WS): k2, p to last 2, k2.
Row 17 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (16)
Rows 18–23: work even in established edge (Rows 1–2 repeat) for 6 rows.
Row 24 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (14)
Row 25 (WS): k2, p to last 2, k2.
Row 26 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (12)
Row 27 (WS): k2, p to last 2, k2.
Row 28 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (10)
Row 29 (WS): k2, p to last 2, k2.
Row 30 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (8)
Row 31 (WS): k2, p to last 2, k2.
Row 32 (RS): k2, ssk, k2tog, k2. (6)
Row 33 (WS): k2, p2, k2.
Row 34 (RS): k2, k2tog, k2. (5)
Row 35 (WS): k2, p1, k2.
Row 36 (RS): k2tog, k1, k2tog. (3)
Row 37 (WS): p3.
Row 38 (RS): k3tog. (1)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching.
Attach Ears
Pin ears to the head sides, about 1 in (2.5 cm) down from the top gathering point, angled so they fall forward slightly. Sew along the top 1.5 in (4 cm) of each ear, leaving the rest free to drape.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Main Bunny: Body (Torso)
The body is a simple rounded tube with a slightly wider lower half so the dress sits smoothly. The neck opening is firm to support the head. Knit flat and seam.
Body Panel
With Porcelain Cream and smaller needle, CO 44 sts.
Rows 1–6: work in garter stitch (k every row) for a sturdy hem.
Row 7 (RS): k all.
Row 8 (WS): p all.
Row 9 (RS): k2, m1R, k to last 2, m1L, k2. (46)
Row 10 (WS): p all.
Row 11 (RS): k2, m1R, k to last 2, m1L, k2. (48)
Row 12 (WS): p all.
Rows 13–30: work even in stockinette.
Row 31 (RS): k2, m1R, k to last 2, m1L, k2. (50)
Row 32 (WS): p all.
Rows 33–40: work even.
Row 41 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (48)
Row 42 (WS): p all.
Row 43 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (46)
Row 44 (WS): p all.
Row 45 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (44)
Row 46 (WS): p all.
Rows 47–52: work even.
BO loosely on RS.
Seam and Stuff Body
Seam side edges to form a tube. Gather the CO edge slightly to round the bottom, then stuff firmly. Keep the top flatter so the cardigan and dress sit neatly. Leave the top edge open for head attachment.
To connect head and body, stuff the neck area well. Pin head centered on body opening with the face pointing forward. Sew around the opening with small stitches, then reinforce with a second round of stitching for stability.
Main Bunny: Arms (Make 2)
The arms are simple tubes with a gentle hand shape. They are attached slightly forward so the bunny can “hold” the bouquet and purse, matching the photo’s sweet pose.
Arm
With Porcelain Cream and smaller needle, CO 20 sts.
Rows 1–6: work in 1×1 rib (k1, p1) for cuff.
Rows 7–24: work in stockinette.
Row 25 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (18)
Row 26 (WS): p all.
Rows 27–32: work even.
BO. Leave long tail.
Finish Arms
Seam each arm into a tube. Lightly gather the BO end to round it, creating a soft hand. Stuff moderately so the arms bend slightly. Sew to the body at shoulder level, just under where the cardigan shoulder seam will sit.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Main Bunny: Legs (Make 2)
The legs are thicker at the feet and narrower at the ankle, so the shoes fit snugly. The visible “sock” look comes from ribbing at the top and clean stockinette down the leg.
Leg
With Porcelain Cream and smaller needle, CO 24 sts.
Rows 1–8: work in 2×2 rib (k2, p2) for a neat upper cuff.
Rows 9–24: stockinette.
Row 25 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (22)
Row 26 (WS): p all.
Rows 27–36: stockinette.
Row 37 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (20)
Row 38 (WS): p all.
Rows 39–44: stockinette.
BO. Leave long tail.
Finish Legs
Seam into tubes. Stuff firmly at the bottom to create a rounded foot base, then more lightly up the calf so the legs can rest together. Sew legs to the underside of the body, aligned so the bunny sits with feet forward as shown.
Face Details
Place safety eyes before final head attachment if preferred. The eyes sit low and calm, about halfway between the top and the widest cheek line. In the photo, the eyes are small black ovals, spaced widely for a gentle expression.
- Eye placement (main bunny): approx. 10–12 sts apart, centered, 10–12 rows up from the lower head gathering line
- Eye placement (mini bunny): approx. 7–8 sts apart, centered, 8–9 rows up from lower gathering
Embroider the nose in a small “Y” shape: one vertical stitch and two diagonal stitches meeting at the center. Keep it minimal and soft. Add a tiny horizontal mouth line if desired, but the photo shows a simple stitched mouth integrated into the “Y.”
Main Bunny Dress
The dress is Porcelain Cream with a textured bodice (eyelets and bobbles) and a smooth skirt. The lily-of-the-valley hem is a separate vine band with white bells sewn along the green scallop line, matching the photo’s border.
Dress Bodice (Flat Panel)
With Porcelain Cream and smaller needle, CO 56 sts.
Row 1 (WS): p all.
Row 2 (RS): k all.
Row 3 (WS): p all.
Row 4 (RS): k2, yo, k2tog, k to last 4, ssk, yo, k2. (56)
Row 5 (WS): p all.
Row 6 (RS): k all.
Row 7 (WS): p all.
Row 8 (RS): k2, yo, k2tog, k to last 4, ssk, yo, k2. (56)
Rows 9–10: stockinette (WS p, RS k).
Row 11 (RS): k8, bobble in next st, k11, bobble, k11, bobble, k11, bobble, k8.
Row 12 (WS): p all (keep bobbles on RS side).
Rows 13–16: stockinette.
Row 17 (RS): k6, bobble, k13, bobble, k13, bobble, k13, bobble, k6.
Row 18 (WS): p all.
Rows 19–22: stockinette.
Row 23 (RS): k2, yo, k2tog, k to last 4, ssk, yo, k2. (56)
Row 24 (WS): p all.
Row 25 (RS): k all.
Row 26 (WS): p all.
Row 27 (RS): k4, (k2tog, k1) rep 16 times, k4. (40)
Row 28 (WS): p all.
Rows 29–34: stockinette.
BO.
Dress Skirt (Gathered to Bodice)
With Porcelain Cream and larger needle, CO 84 sts.
Rows 1–6: work garter stitch (k every row) for a soft inner facing that helps the skirt hang smoothly.
Row 7 (RS): k all.
Row 8 (WS): p all.
Rows 9–46: stockinette for length. Add 4–8 more rows if you want a longer skirt for a taller bunny.
Rows 47–52: garter stitch to create the thick bottom edge seen in the photo.
BO loosely.
Join Dress
Seam skirt into a tube. Seam bodice into a tube, leaving a 2 in (5 cm) opening at the back top for easy dressing. Gather the top of the skirt to match the lower edge of the bodice and stitch together evenly.
Along the bodice back opening, work 4–6 rows of garter stitch as a built-in placket by picking up stitches and knitting a narrow band, or simply sew a narrow folded facing. Add a small snap or tiny stitch closure at the neckline if desired.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Lily-of-the-Valley Hem: Vine and Bells
The hem decoration is what makes this design instantly recognizable. In the photo, a green scalloped vine runs around the skirt, with white bell flowers hanging beneath it. Work the vine first, then knit many bells, then sew them carefully along the scallops.
Vine Band
With Leaf Green and smaller needle, CO 180 sts (or enough to go around the skirt hem with gentle stretch). Keep it slightly shorter than the skirt circumference so it hugs.
Row 1 (WS): p all.
Row 2 (RS): k all.
Row 3 (WS): p2, (p2tog, yo, p1, yo, p2tog) rep across, end p2. This creates repeated peaks and dips.
Row 4 (RS): k all.
BO. Seam ends to form a ring. Pin the vine around the skirt about 1 in (2.5 cm) above the bottom garter edge. Sew along the top edge of the vine, leaving the lower scallops free.
Bell Flowers (Make 30–45)
With Soft White and smaller needle, CO 8 sts.
Row 1 (WS): p all.
Row 2 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (10)
Row 3 (WS): p all.
Row 4 (RS): k all.
Row 5 (WS): p all.
Row 6 (RS): k2tog across. (5)
Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight to form the top of the bell.
Seam the bell into a tiny cup using the side edge. Do not over-stuff; the bells should look hollow and delicate. Make many bells so the hem looks full like the photo.
Attach Bells
Use Soft White tails to sew bells under each vine scallop. In the photo, the bells are grouped closely, giving a “cluster” feeling. Aim for 2–3 bells under each peak, then fill remaining dips with single bells until the ring looks balanced.
Cardigan (Powder Blue)
The cardigan is cropped and open-front with two vine-like cable panels, plus a rounded petal collar that overlaps slightly. Sleeves are simple stockinette with a garter cuff. The cardigan closes with one small button at the neck, matching the photo.
Cardigan Back
With Powder Blue and smaller needle, CO 46 sts.
Rows 1–6: garter stitch.
Rows 7–32: stockinette.
Shape armholes:
Row 33 (RS): BO 3, k to end. (43)
Row 34 (WS): BO 3, p to end. (40)
Rows 35–46: work even in stockinette.
Shoulders and neck:
Row 47 (RS): k12, BO 16, k12.
Work each shoulder 2 more rows, then BO.
Cardigan Fronts (Make 2, mirror)
Each front includes a cable panel that resembles leafy stems. Keep the front edge in garter stitch for a neat band.
CO 26 sts.
Rows 1–6: garter stitch.
Set-up Row 7 (RS): k4 (front band), k2, p2, k12, p2, k2, k4 (side edge).
Row 8 (WS): k4, p2, k2, p12, k2, p2, k4.
Cable motif is worked over the center 12 sts in this sequence every 8 rows:
- Motif Row A (RS): work to center 12 sts, k2, C4F, k2, C4F, k2 (creates two crossing vines)
- Motif Row B (RS, 4 rows later): work to center 12 sts, k2, C4F, k2, k4, k2 (one crossing for asymmetry)
Rows 9–32: continue in established band (k4 at front edge every row), maintaining stockinette background and working Motif Row A on Row 15 and 23, and Motif Row B on Row 19 and 27.
Armhole shaping:
Row 33 (RS): BO 3 at side edge end. Keep front band intact. (23)
Row 34 (WS): p to last 4, k4.
Rows 35–46: work even.
Neck shaping (front edge):
Row 47 (RS): k4, work to last 2, k2tog. (22)
Row 48 (WS): p to last 4, k4.
Row 49 (RS): k4, work to last 2, k2tog. (21)
Row 50 (WS): p to last 4, k4.
Row 51 (RS): k4, work to last 2, k2tog. (20)
BO shoulder sts to match back shoulder height. Repeat for second front, mirroring decreases so both fronts angle toward the neck.
Cardigan Sleeves (Make 2)
CO 26 sts. Rows 1–6: garter stitch.
Rows 7–24: stockinette.
Increase for gentle sleeve width:
Row 25 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (28)
Row 26 (WS): p all.
Rows 27–36: stockinette.
BO.
Collar (Rounded Petal Collar)
The collar in the photo looks like overlapping petals. This version creates scallops by binding off and re-casting small sections. Work two collar pieces and sew to neckline.
With Powder Blue and smaller needle, CO 38 sts.
Row 1 (WS): k all.
Row 2 (RS): k all.
Row 3 (WS): k all.
Row 4 (RS): (BO 3, CO 3) rep across until last 2 sts, k2. This makes soft scallops.
Rows 5–10: garter stitch.
BO.
Make 2 collar pieces.
Cardigan Assembly
Seam shoulders, then sew sleeves in flat. Seam side seams and sleeve seams. Sew collar pieces around neckline so they meet at center front, slightly overlapping. Attach 1 small white button at the top center, and make a small yarn loop on the opposite side.
Lightly steam-block the cardigan only if your yarn allows it, keeping the fabric soft. Avoid flattening the cable texture.
Bonnet with Lily-of-the-Valley Clusters
The bonnet is Porcelain Cream with a braided band across the top and a soft frame around the face. The sides hold hanging lily-of-the-valley clusters with green stems, matching the photo’s floral crown effect.
Bonnet Cap
With Porcelain Cream and smaller needle, CO 54 sts.
Rows 1–4: garter stitch.
Rows 5–22: stockinette.
Shape back curve:
Row 23 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (52)
Row 24 (WS): p all.
Row 25 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (50)
Row 26 (WS): p all.
Row 27 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (48)
Row 28 (WS): p all.
Rows 29–32: stockinette.
BO.
Braided Band
With Porcelain Cream, CO 12 sts.
Rows 1–6: garter stitch.
Row 7 (RS): k2, C4F, k2, C4F, k2.
Row 8 (WS): k all.
Rep Rows 7–8 until band fits across the top of the bonnet cap from front edge to front edge, slightly stretched. BO.
Face Frame
Pick up sts along the front edge of the bonnet cap (approx. 52–56 sts). Knit 6 rows garter stitch, then BO. This creates the softly rippled frame seen around the face in the photo.
Bonnet Seaming
Fold bonnet cap so short ends meet and seam the back curve to form a cap. Sew braided band across the top center. The band should sit like a raised ridge. Sew the face frame neatly so it lies smooth and even.
Bonnet Ties
Make two 3-st i-cords, each approx. 10–12 in (25–30 cm). Sew to the lower front corners of the bonnet. These tie under the chin.
Lily-of-the-Valley Side Clusters (Make 2)
Each side cluster includes a green stem, two small leaves, and multiple white bells. In the photo, the bells look full and layered. Aim for 6–8 bells per side.
- Stem: make a 3-st i-cord in Leaf Green, approx. 4.5 in (11–12 cm)
- Leaves (make 2 per side): CO 6 in Leaf Green, knit 2 rows garter, then k2tog at each end on RS rows until 2 sts remain, BO
- Bells: use the same Soft White bell flower instructions above, making 12–16 bells total for the bonnet
Sew bells along the lower half of each stem so they “hang” forward. Attach leaves near the top of the stem. Sew each completed cluster to the bonnet sides so the bells frame the face beside the ears, matching the photo’s placement.
Shoes (Mary Jane Style, Make 2)
The shoes are Porcelain Cream with a Soft White scalloped top trim. The strap sits across the ankle. Keep shoes snug so they stay on the feet when the doll is handled.
Shoe Base
With Porcelain Cream and smaller needle, CO 22 sts.
Rows 1–4: garter stitch.
Rows 5–18: stockinette.
Shape toe:
Row 19 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (20)
Row 20 (WS): p all.
Row 21 (RS): k2, ssk, k to last 4, k2tog, k2. (18)
Row 22 (WS): p all.
Rows 23–26: stockinette.
BO.
Shoe Assembly
Fold the shoe piece and seam the sides to form a slipper shape. Close the toe neatly, then lightly stuff the toe only so it looks rounded. Slide onto the bunny’s foot before attaching trim to confirm size.
Scalloped Trim
With Soft White, pick up 18–20 sts along the top opening. Work:
Row 1 (WS): p all.
Row 2 (RS): (k1, yo, k2tog) rep across.
Row 3 (WS): p all.
BO loosely.
Pin the trim so it sits as a decorative band across the shoe top, like the photo’s scalloped edge. Sew securely.
Strap
With Porcelain Cream, CO 6 sts. Knit 8–10 rows garter. BO.
Sew one end of strap to the outer side of the shoe opening. Sew a tiny button to the other end, and make a small yarn loop on the opposite side, or simply sew the strap closed once fitted.
Purse (Small Flap Bag)
The purse is Porcelain Cream with a Powder Blue button, matching the photo. The bag is softly rounded with a flap that closes over the front. Add a short handle so it sits in the bunny’s hand.
Purse Body
With Porcelain Cream and smaller needle, CO 18 sts.
Rows 1–6: garter stitch.
Rows 7–22: stockinette.
Fold the piece in half with WS inside. Seam sides and bottom to form a small pouch. Turn RS out.
Flap
Pick up 18 sts across the back top edge of the pouch. Knit 10 rows garter stitch.
Shape flap tip:
Row 11 (RS): k2, k2tog, k to last 4, ssk, k2.
Row 12 (WS): k all.
Row 13 (RS): k2tog, k to last 2, k2tog.
BO.
Handle
Make a 3-st i-cord in Porcelain Cream, approx. 5–6 in (13–15 cm). Sew ends to the side top corners of the bag. Sew a small Powder Blue button to the flap and add a yarn loop closure on the bag front.
Bouquet of Lily-of-the-Valley
The bouquet in the photo sits at the bunny’s side and looks full, with many white bells and a green leafy base. Build it like a small cluster: leaves first, then stems, then bells, then wrap and stitch into a rounded bundle.
Leafy Base
With Leaf Green, CO 10 sts. Work 2 rows garter.
Row 3 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (12)
Row 4 (WS): p all.
Rows 5–10: stockinette.
Row 11 (RS): k2tog, k to last 2, k2tog. (10)
Row 12 (WS): p all.
Row 13 (RS): k2tog, k to last 2, k2tog. (8)
Row 14 (WS): p all.
BO. Make 3–4 leaves.
Stems and Bells
- Make 6–8 i-cord stems in Leaf Green, each 3–4 in (8–10 cm)
- Make 18–26 Soft White bells using the bell instructions above
Sew 3–5 bells along the lower half of each stem so they cascade. Stitch stems together at the base, then wrap with yarn tails. Sew leaves around the base to hide joins. Lightly shape so the bouquet looks rounded and dense.
To hold the bouquet like the photo, tack it to the dress side seam area with a few hidden stitches. Also stitch one stem to the bunny’s paw lightly so it stays posed but still looks natural.
Mini Bunny Friend
The mini bunny sits beside the main bunny and wears a simple Porcelain Cream outfit with eyelets and a soft ruffled collar. Keep the mini details simpler, but preserve the same calm face and long ears so it clearly matches the main character.
Mini Head Panel
With Porcelain Cream, CO 28 sts.
Rows 1–2: stockinette (WS p, RS k).
Row 3 (RS): k1, m1R, k to last 1, m1L, k1. (30)
Row 4 (WS): p all.
Rows 5–16: stockinette.
Row 17 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (28)
Row 18 (WS): p all.
Row 19 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3, k2tog, k1. (26)
Row 20 (WS): p all.
BO. Seam into a tube, gather top and bottom, stuff, and close as for main head.
Mini Ears (Make 2)
CO 12 sts. Work 10 rows stockinette with k1 edge each side every row to reduce curling. Decrease 1 st each end every RS row for 6 RS rows. BO. Sew to head.
Mini Body
CO 26 sts. Work 4 rows garter, then 16 rows stockinette. Decrease 1 st each end every 4th row twice. BO. Seam and stuff lightly. Attach head.
Mini Arms and Legs
Arms: CO 10 sts, 4 rows rib, 10 rows stockinette, BO, seam and stuff lightly.
Legs: CO 12 sts, 6 rows rib, 10 rows stockinette, BO, seam and stuff toe slightly more.
Mini Dress
CO 34 sts. Work 4 rows garter. Then repeat this eyelet row every 6 rows:
Eyelet Row (RS): k2, yo, k2tog, k to last 4, ssk, yo, k2.
Work total 28–34 rows, ending with 4 rows garter for hem. Seam into tube and slip on the mini bunny. Add a small ruffled collar by picking up sts at neckline and working 6 rows garter, then BO.
Putting the Outfit On
- Dress the main bunny in the cream dress first, closing the back opening with a small stitch or snap.
- Slide on shoes and fasten straps so they sit at the ankle like the photo.
- Put on the powder blue cardigan and close with the single neck button.
- Place the bonnet so the face frame hugs the cheeks and the braid sits centered. Tie under the chin.
- Add purse to the left paw area and tack the bouquet to the right side, matching the pose.
Check proportions from the front: the cardigan should end above the dress’s bobble area, the collar should lie flat like petals, and the hem vine should sit close to the garter border with bells hanging below the green scallops.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Do a last shaping pass before you secure everything permanently. Tug stuffing gently to fill the cheeks evenly. Add a few hidden anchor stitches to hold the head upright and centered. Keep the embroidered nose small and crisp. If using safety eyes, ensure washers are fully locked and not visible.
Care Notes
This doll is best treated as a display or gentle play item. Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap. Avoid soaking the stuffed body, and keep the cardigan and bonnet away from rough surfaces to protect the cable texture and floral bells.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Eyes are evenly spaced and level
- Head seam is centered at the back
- Ears are attached symmetrically and drape forward
- Dress hem vine is even and bells hang neatly
- Cardigan collar sits flat and button closes comfortably
- Bonnet clusters frame the face on both sides
- Shoes fit snugly and straps are secure
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
For long-term preservation, keep the doll out of direct sunlight to prevent fading. Store in a breathable cotton bag. If dust builds up, use a soft brush or lint roller gently on clothing. If you must wash clothing pieces, remove them and hand wash briefly, then reshape flat to dry.
