Hyacinth Lullaby Bunny – Knitting

This gentle bunny set is designed to look like a soft heirloom rabbit doll styled for spring, with a pale lavender dress, knitted flower details, a floppy bonnet, tiny shoes, a satchel, a small lamb friend, and a potted hyacinth. It has the charm of a handmade nursery decor piece and the finish of a collectible stuffed animal. If you love searching for knitted bunny doll ideas, baby shower gift inspiration, or boutique toy designs, this sweet set brings those cozy details into one polished project.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This design recreates the full knitted scene shown in the image. The main bunny is worked in smooth stockinette with a soft cream body, long hanging ears, a rounded bonnet, a petal collar, a lavender dress with raised hyacinth flowers, simple strapped shoes, a small cream satchel, a tiny gray lamb, and a knitted flowerpot.

The shaping is calm and classic rather than highly cartooned. The head is large but not oversized, the body is short and slightly cylindrical, the arms are long and softly tapered, and the legs are straight and sturdy. The overall silhouette should feel balanced, calm, and childlike.

For the closest result, use light sport or fine DK yarn with a firm gauge. The stitches in the image are neat and small, so avoid a loose fabric. The toy should hold shape well without visible stuffing.

Finished Size

• Main bunny: about 12 inches tall seated, about 14 inches tall standing to top of head, not including the soft curve of the bonnet
• Satchel: about 2 1/4 inches tall
• Lamb: about 3 inches tall
• Flowerpot with hyacinths: about 3 1/4 inches tall
• Handkerchief: about 2 1/4 inches square before edging drape

Yarn Colors

• Main cream: bunny body, bonnet, collar, shoes, satchel
• Soft lavender: dress base
• Leaf green: straps, stems, leaves
• Hyacinth lilac: lighter flower clusters
• Hyacinth deep violet: darker flower shading
• Lamb gray: lamb body and ears
• Clay brown: flowerpot
• Dark brown or black: soil, eyes, optional accent stitching
• Blush pink and rose: tiny floral embroidery on lamb collar and handkerchief

Materials

• Fine DK or light sport yarn in the colors listed above
• Needles suitable for a tight toy gauge, such as US 1.5 to 2.5
• Set of double-pointed needles or magic loop for small pieces
• Tapestry needle
• Small sharp scissors
• Toy stuffing
• Optional stuffing tweezers or chopstick
• 2 tiny black safety eyes or black embroidery thread for stitched eyes
• Thin card or plastic canvas scrap for flat bag base and pot base if desired

Gauge

32 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in stockinette worked flat or in the round after blocking lightly. Exact row gauge matters because the proportions in this design are soft and elongated, especially in the ears, arms, and skirt depth.

Abbreviations

• K = knit
• P = purl
• St = stitch
• Sts = stitches
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• Kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• Ssk = slip, slip, knit
• M1 = make 1 increase
• Rep = repeat
• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on
• Sl = slip
• Psso = pass slipped stitch over
• I-cord = knitted cord over a small number of stitches
• Bobble = small raised flower knot worked into one stitch

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Construction Notes

• The bunny body, legs, arms, ears, bonnet, collar, shoes, satchel, lamb, and flowerpot are all separate pieces.
• The dress is worked from the top down so the strap placement and flower spacing stay symmetrical.
• The hyacinth motifs are made with knitted leaves and tiny bobble-style flower clusters sewn onto the dress.
• The face is shaped with subtle embroidery only. Keep the features small and centered.
• Stuff firmly but gently. The image shows a smooth surface, not a hard toy.

Main Bunny

Legs Make 2

Using cream, CO 18 sts. Work 6 rows in 1×1 rib. This creates the neat ankle area that shows below the dress. Change to stockinette and work 22 rows straight.

Begin shaping the top of the leg very lightly so it joins the body without a sharp corner.

1. Row 1 RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1
2. Row 2 WS: Purl
3. Rep these 2 rows 2 more times

15 sts remain. Work 4 rows straight. BO loosely. Sew side seam, close lower foot opening neatly, then stuff the leg firmly through the top. Flatten the upper edge slightly rather than making it fully round.

Body

Using cream, CO 32 sts. Work flat in stockinette for 8 rows. This base becomes the lower torso between the legs. Sew the legs first, then build the body upward from the joined opening.

Join the two legs to the lower body by sewing them to the underside of the body panel with a small gap between them. The stance in the image is narrow, with the feet nearly parallel.

For the upper body panel, CO 36 sts in cream. Work 30 rows in stockinette. Shape armhole softness only slightly:

1. Row 1 RS: BO 2 sts, knit to end
2. Row 2 WS: BO 2 sts, purl to end
3. Row 3 RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1
4. Row 4 WS: Purl

Rep Rows 3 and 4 once. 28 sts remain. Work 10 rows straight for chest and shoulder area. BO.

Make a second matching body panel. Sew shoulder seams first, then side seams, leaving neck open. Attach to the leg section, shaping the lower body into a softly stuffed cylinder. Stuff evenly, keeping the front very smooth because the dress sits close to the body.

Arms Make 2

Using cream, CO 14 sts. Work flat in stockinette for 8 rows. Increase 1 stitch at each end of next row. Repeat this increase row every 10th row 3 times total.

You should now have 20 sts. Work straight until the arm measures about 4 1/2 inches. The image shows long, simple arms with rounded ends and no paws defined separately.

Shape the top and hand end identically for a gentle pill shape:

1. Row 1 RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1
2. Row 2 WS: Purl
3. Rep these 2 rows 4 times total

10 sts remain. BO. Sew seam. Stuff lightly, keeping the arms flatter than the legs. The arms should drape downward from the shoulder, not stick outward.

Head Front

Using cream, CO 24 sts. Work 4 rows in stockinette. Increase 1 stitch at each end of next row. Repeat every 4th row 6 times total. 38 sts.

Work 24 rows straight. This creates the broad, softly rounded face seen in the image.

Begin upper shaping:

1. Row 1 RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1
2. Row 2 WS: Purl
3. Rep these 2 rows 6 times total

26 sts remain. BO.

Head Back

Work the same as head front, but add 2 extra plain rows before the decrease shaping. This slight fullness at the back helps the bonnet sit naturally.

Sew head front and back together, leaving lower neck edge open. Stuff firmly and smoothly. The head should be rounded but slightly taller than wide, with a gentle taper toward the chin.

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Muzzle and Neck Definition

The face in the image is not made with a protruding separate muzzle. Instead, it uses soft sculpting and embroidery. After stuffing the head, run a gathering thread lightly around the lower third to suggest a chin curve.

Do not pull tightly. The goal is only to create a tender inward line below the nose area. Sew the head securely to the body with the chin touching the collar line.

Ears Make 2

Using cream, CO 10 sts. Work in stockinette. Increase 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row until 20 sts.

Work 36 rows straight. The ears in the image are long, wide, and very soft, ending in rounded tips. They fall down from beneath the bonnet brim and reach to shoulder level.

Shape top curve:

1. Row 1 RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1
2. Row 2 WS: Purl
3. Rep these 2 rows until 8 sts remain
4. BO

Make a second ear. Sew each ear lengthwise, stuff only the bottom 1 1/2 inches very lightly, and leave the rest flat. Attach them high on the sides of the head so they hang straight down.

Face Embroidery

Place the eyes low and wide apart, with a calm expression. In the image, the eyes are tiny black ovals, positioned slightly above the midpoint of the face. They should sit far enough from the center to make the muzzle area look broad and sweet.

• Embroider or attach eyes about 7 stitches apart
• Work a tiny vertical nose line in brown or taupe
• Split into a soft Y shape at the center
• Add two short curved mouth lines below
• Keep all facial lines fine and delicate

Petal Collar

Using cream, CO 48 sts. Work 4 rows garter stitch. Join into a ring if desired or keep flat and seam at back later.

Work the petal edge as follows:

1. Round 1: K
2. Round 2: *K2tog, yo, K1, yo, ssk, K2* rep around
3. Round 3: K all sts
4. Round 4: *K2tog, yo, K3, yo, ssk* rep around
5. Round 5: K all sts

BO loosely. Steam very lightly so the scallops soften rather than flare. The collar in the image lies gently around the neck with five rounded lobes visible from the front. Sew to neck base.

Bonnet

The bonnet is soft and roomy, with a rolled front brim and long side flaps that frame the face and cover the ear bases. It is not a close cap. Keep it relaxed and round.

Crown

Using cream, CO 72 sts. Join in round. Work 6 rounds garter or reverse stockinette to make the soft brim roll. Then work 18 rounds stockinette.

Shape crown:

1. Round 1: *K10, k2tog* rep around
2. Round 2: K
3. Round 3: *K9, k2tog* rep around
4. Continue decreasing this way every other round until 12 sts remain
5. Break yarn and draw through remaining sts

Face Flaps

Pick up 18 sts along one side of the front brim. Work 20 rows stockinette with 3 garter edge sts at the face side. Decrease 1 stitch at the outer edge every 6th row 3 times.

BO. Repeat on the other side. Sew the back crown seam if needed and place the bonnet over the head. The front brim should sit low but not cover the eyes.

Dress

The dress is the key visual feature. It is a pale lavender pinafore-style dress with slim green vine straps and four front hyacinth motifs placed evenly across the skirt. The neckline is high, and the skirt widens softly from the chest.

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Upper Dress Front

Using lavender, CO 34 sts. Work 6 rows in stockinette. On next RS row, increase 1 stitch at each side. Repeat every 4th row 3 times total. 42 sts.

Work 8 more rows straight. This creates the chest panel. BO 4 center sts for a slight upper dip if desired, then work each side separately for 2 rows and rejoin. Keep the dip very shallow.

Upper Dress Back

Make the same as front, but do not dip the neckline. Work straight for a neat back edge.

Join and Work Skirt

Sew side seams of upper dress. Pick up evenly around lower edge to total 72 sts. Work skirt in the round if preferred, or flat and seam later.

Skirt shaping:

1. Round 1: K
2. Round 2: *K8, M1* rep around
3. Work 6 rounds straight
4. Next increase round: *K9, M1* rep around
5. Work 6 rounds straight
6. Next increase round: *K10, M1* rep around
7. Work until skirt depth from underarm is about 3 1/4 inches

Finish with 4 rows garter and BO loosely. The hem in the image curves gently outward without a ruffle, so do not over-increase.

Green Vine Straps Make 2

Using leaf green, work a 3-stitch I-cord long enough to go from back top edge, over shoulder, to front chest edge. Make 2. Before attaching, twist each strap softly once or twice so it resembles a vine.

Sew the straps to the dress front and back. Let them sit slightly inward rather than at the outer shoulder edge. In the image, the straps frame the collar without hiding it.

Hyacinth Motifs

There are four main flower clusters across the skirt front. Each has two green leaves at the base, a slim green stem, and a cone-shaped purple flower head made from small raised knots.

The motifs should sit above the hem border, evenly spaced, with the outer two slightly angled inward by placement, not by knitting distortion.

Leaves Make 8

Using green, CO 3 sts. Work flat:

1. Row 1: K
2. Row 2: Kfb, P1, Kfb
3. Row 3: K
4. Row 4: P
5. Row 5: K1, kfb, K1, kfb, K1
6. Row 6: P
7. Row 7: Ssk, K1, k2tog
8. Row 8: P
9. Row 9: Ssk, k2tog

Fasten off. Shape each leaf to a soft pointed oval. Sew two leaves for each flower, spreading them low and outward.

Stems Make 4

Using green, work 4 tiny I-cords over 2 stitches, each about 1 inch long. Sew upright from the leaf base toward the flower cluster.

Flower Clusters Make 4

Using lilac and deep violet together or separately for shading, create 9 to 13 tiny bobbles for each hyacinth cluster. Make them in graduated size placement so the flower forms a tapered cone.

One easy method is to knit miniature bobble dots separately:

1. CO 1 st
2. Kfb twice into same stitch
3. Turn, p3
4. Turn, k3tog
5. Fasten off with a tail for sewing

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Make a mix of lighter and darker bobbles. Sew them tightly together in stacked rows over the top of each stem. Use about 3 dots in the bottom row, then 3, then 2, then 1 or 2 at the top.

For the richest result, place darker violet near the lower right or left side of each cluster and lighter lilac on the opposite side. This gives the flower depth like the image.

Shoes Make 2

The shoes are very simple cream slippers with rounded toes and a flat upper strap area. Each shoe has a tiny tied bow on the front.

Using cream, CO 16 sts. Work 6 rows garter. Change to stockinette and work 8 rows. Shape toe:

1. Row 1 RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1
2. Row 2 WS: Purl
3. Rep 4 times total

8 sts remain. BO. Sew into a tiny soft shoe that cups the foot front. Add a narrow ankle band by picking up 14 sts around opening and working 4 rows in 1×1 rib. BO.

Make a tiny I-cord or twisted cord bow for each shoe and sew to the front center. Slide shoes onto feet and tack in place.

Satchel

The satchel is cream, boxy, and softly structured, with a flap and long strap. It should look neat and miniature, not slouchy.

Bag Body

Using cream, CO 18 sts. Work 24 rows in stockinette. This rectangle folds to form front, base, and back. Add a small card insert if you want a crisper look.

For side gussets, CO 4 sts and work 12 rows for each side. Sew to body panel. Fold lower portion upward and sew side seams. The bag in the image is slightly rounded at the corners, so soften the seams with light stuffing or lining.

Flap

Pick up 18 sts along the back top edge. Work 8 rows stockinette, then shape tip:

1. Row 1 RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1
2. Row 2 WS: Purl
3. Rep twice more

BO. Sew a tiny knitted button nub or embroidered clasp at the front. Add a narrow I-cord strap long enough to drape beside the bunny.

Handkerchief

This small cloth sits beside the satchel and adds a delicate vintage touch. The center is white or cream with a tiny embroidered floral sprig and a lace-look border.

Using cream, CO 18 sts. Work 18 rows in garter or seed stitch. BO loosely.

For the soft lace effect shown in the image, embroider a scalloped edge using small loops and straight stitches in matching cream thread. Add a tiny pink and green floral sprig near one corner.

Lamb Friend

The lamb is a separate tiny toy with a gray body, darker floppy ears, small black eyes, a stitched nose, and a cream floral collar. It should look sweet and slightly squat.

Body

Using light gray, CO 16 sts. Work in stockinette for 20 rows. Increase 1 stitch at each end on Row 5 and Row 11. 20 sts. Work 4 more rows.

Shape top:

1. Row 1 RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1
2. Row 2 WS: Purl
3. Rep until 10 sts remain
4. BO

Make 2 body pieces. Sew and stuff lightly. The lower body should remain a bit wider so the lamb sits steadily.

Head

Using gray, CO 14 sts. Increase 1 stitch at each end every 4th row 3 times. 20 sts. Work 10 rows straight. Decrease as for body until 10 sts remain. BO.

Make 2, sew, stuff, and attach to body with the head slightly tilted upward.

Ears Make 2

CO 6 sts using darker gray. Increase 1 stitch at each end every 4th row twice. 10 sts. Work 8 rows straight. Decrease every RS row until 4 sts remain. BO.

Sew flat and attach low on the head so they flop downward.

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Leg Nubs Make 4

Work 4 tiny tubes over 6 sts for 6 rows. Sew beneath body so the lamb stands low and compact.

Lamb Collar

Using cream, CO 20 sts and work 3 rows garter. BO. Sew around neck, then embroider three miniature pink flowers with green leaves at the center front.

Potted Hyacinths

The flowerpot sits to the right of the bunny and contains three upright hyacinth stems in pale and dark lavender. The pot is warm terracotta brown with visible dark soil.

Pot

Using clay brown, CO 24 sts and join in round. Work 4 rounds garter for the rolled rim. Then work 12 rounds stockinette.

Decrease for the base:

1. Round 1: *K4, k2tog* rep around
2. Round 2: K
3. Round 3: *K3, k2tog* rep around
4. Round 4: K
5. Round 5: *K2, k2tog* rep around

Thread yarn through remaining sts and close. Lightly stuff lower half only, or insert a pellet pouch for stability.

Soil Insert

Using dark brown, CO 18 sts. Work 6 rows stockinette. Gather into a small circle and stitch into the top opening so it looks like soil.

Hyacinth Stems Make 3

Work 3 green I-cords about 1 1/2 inches long. Sew into soil insert at slightly different angles.

Leaves

Make 6 long narrow leaves in green. CO 3 sts, increase to 7 sts, work 8 rows, then decrease back to 3 sts and BO. Sew two or three leaves around each stem base.

Flower Heads

Make 3 small cone clusters using the same bobble method as on the dress. One should be pale lilac, one medium lavender, and one deeper violet. Attach at the top of the stems.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the arms to the upper body so they angle slightly forward and rest near the skirt sides. Attach the head securely with strong ladder stitching. Add the collar before fixing the bonnet in place.

Dress the bunny in the lavender pinafore and stitch it closed neatly at the back. Sew the vine straps so they sit evenly. Position the bonnet low around the forehead and tack it behind the ears.

Check the face before finishing. The eyes should be tiny, level, and calm. The nose should sit exactly between them but lower, with a short vertical stitch and two soft mouth curves. Keep every line delicate.

Place the shoes straight, tie or sew the bows flat, and let the satchel rest beside the bunny. Arrange the lamb and flowerpot close to the bunny for the same balanced scene shown in the image.

Care Notes

• Spot clean first whenever possible
• Use cool water and mild soap only
• Do not twist or wring the knitted pieces
• Reshape while damp and dry flat on a towel
• Keep away from rough play if used as decor

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head centered and firm
• Ears attached evenly and hanging low
• Bonnet brim not covering the eyes
• Collar lying flat around neck
• Four hyacinth motifs spaced evenly on dress front
• Shoes aligned and bows centered
• Satchel flap closing neatly
• Lamb collar embroidered at center
• Flowerpot stable and upright

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term display, keep the set away from direct sunlight so the lavender and green shades stay soft. Store in a clean, dry space with tissue support inside the bonnet and satchel to help them keep shape.

If storing seasonally, wrap each piece separately in acid-free tissue. Avoid sealed plastic in humid conditions. For dust, use a soft dry brush and work gently around the flower bobbles, facial embroidery, and collar edges.

If the bunny loses shape over time, lightly steam from a distance and reshape by hand. Do not press the iron directly onto the toy. A careful refresh will keep the smooth finish and heirloom look intact.